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Felicia and I met a few years ago through a friend in NYC.   She’s wicked smart, funny, and has a killer sense of style.  Along with being a ridiculously talented writer, Felicia is also a gifted photographer, baker, and cook.

Felicia recently left her high-powered/profile job and is traveling in Italy and France for three weeks.  It’s not easy to walk away from something that looks great on paper (especially in this economy).  It takes a certain kind of fearlessness to step toward the unknown.

I love her blog. The way Felicia writes about life, love, food, etc. is extraordinary.

I just read her Florence dispatch and I all I have to say is, “I need to book a train ticket pronto.”  I hope her writing and her photos will inspire you.

Buon Weekend!

 

Seven years ago I traveled to Rome for the second time.

The first time was a revelation and I fell hard for this crazy city.  It didn’t make sense.  Nobody in my family is Italian and I was not an Italophile by any stretch.

I loved London, Paris, and Amsterdam.  When I was in junior high and high school I just KNEW I would live in Paris or London one day.   I wasn’t thinking about Rome or Italy despite living in a town called Verona .

I thought maybe I had responded to Rome that way because of what was, or wasn’t, going on in my life at that moment.   I had to find out why that one trip had unsettled me so much.

I returned the following year and took a short trip to Florence and Positano.

ARLENEhillside

The view from my terrace.

It was a pain in the butt to get from Rome to Positano.  First the train to Naples (not bad), then the train to Sorrento (an hour on a local train with many stops), and then finally a bus to Positano.

I walked down the steep hill, followed by a million steps, to reach my hotel.  Once I stepped into the room and opened the large French doors, I saw that view.   My heart skipped a beat.  It was so beautiful it felt unreal, like a movie set.

There is a great hiking trail/path way up in the mountains, Sentiero degli Dei/Path of the Gods.  Early one morning, I went up the mountain.

It was quiet. I saw two German tourists hiking and that was it.  For the first time in years, my mind wasn’t racing a mile a minute, overwhelmed by the things I had not accomplished.

That walk changed everything.

I realized I had to make some serious changes in my life for my mental and physical health.  I wasn’t sure how at that time.

Eventually, I figured it out and moved to Italy two years later.

Buon weekend!

Last month I attended Kathryn M. Ireland’s Interior Design Bootcamp in Los Angeles.

That would be Kathryn the internationally known designer, NOT Kathy the former SI cover model.  One Hollywood exec said to me, “I thought you were talking about the model the entire time.  Alas, now our conversation has become less interesting to me.”  Too funny.  Gotta love Hollywood.

It would be hard to describe a packed four day schedule in one short blog post.  Overall, it was fantastic experience.  I was very impressed by Kathryn and her team, Jen, Rebecca, and Francesca.  I learned a lot and enjoyed meeting my fellow bootcampers.

There were only seven of us.  Six were in different stages of our careers. One bootcamper had a new house.  For her it was a good opportunity to see how a designer works.  Some bootcampers had degrees in Interior Design and their own showrooms, while others were self taught and just starting out.  It was a great mix.

If you watch the show MILLION DOLLAR DECORATORS or have read anything about Kathryn you know that along with being a talented textiles and interior designer, she’s a fantastic host.  We met some heavy hitters in the business and it says something about Kathryn that everyone she introduced us to was warm, and down-to-earth.

The workshop was organized (binders, books, baked goods!)  We received excellent nuts and bolts information and advice about the business of design.   There were guest speakers who talked about the state of the industry, branding, product development, publicity, and social media.

We also visited several high profile showrooms with Kathryn, like Lucca, Nathan Turner, Martyn Lawrence Bullard, Peter Dunham, Christopher Farr, Jasper, Pat McGann, etc.

Martyn’s was our last showroom stop. He had drinks and quips for us.

There was down time too (and plenty of wine with meals). We went on a hike in Will Rogers State Park with sick views of the Pacific.  It wasn’t mandatory but a nice way to kick off a long day.  That day we visited  Kathryn’s print shop.  She opened it in Los Angeles instead of outsourcing the work.  The time it takes to hand print fabric is no joke and that’s why it’s expensive.

We worked on our mood/presentation boards for our projects with input from Kathryn and her team.  I wanted to pull my hair out as I tried to draw my floor plans by hand. Luckily for me, one of my fellow bootcampers was a kitchen and bath designer.  She talked me down off the ledge.

I can’t really say which highlight (there were many) of the workshop was my favorite.  I can say I returned to Rome feeling excited about the future and inspired.

For more information about future Bootcamps, check out Kathryn’s WEBSITE.

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I saw marble everywhere.

Surfers taking advantage of the big waves after a rain storm.

Beach club in Marina di Pietrasanta before sunrise.

A sidewalk made of marble.

View of the sun rising from the Forte dei Marmi pier.

Delicious branzino at Pinocchio a Pietrasanta.

Michelangelo slept here.

 Fresco.

The pretty piazza in Pietrasanta.

Botero cat.

Botero exhibit.

I haven’t spent that much time in Tuscany.  I’ve been to Florence, Siena, and the tiny town of Terriciola which isn’t too far from Pisa.

I was going to stay in Rome for my birthday.  However, the horrendous heat, the fact that 99 percent of my friends were gone for Ferragosto, and dealing with screaming drunk American college students and loud high school Italian teenagers on my street pushed me over the edge.  I booked a trip out of town.

My friend Michelle, who lives in Milan, told me about Versilia.  Her husband happened to be in the area that weekend. He was dropping off their young son who was going to stay at his great aunt’s house.  He showed me around Versilia.

I don’t know if it was escaping from the heat or what but I fell in love with this part of the Tuscan coast.  Sometimes referred to as the Tuscan Riviera, Versilia is in the Northwest part of Tuscany.

I stayed in the town of Marina di Piestrasanta. I had no idea I was so close to the Forte dei Marmi border.  The two towns share a great park filled with pines trees.  The smell was glorious.

Marina di Piestrasanta was a little more laid back.  Forte dei Marmi reminded me of the Hamptons/Martha’s Vineyard.

There were all these super chic people on their bicycles whose families have been going to the area for decades.  Then you’d turn a corner and see a Veline/showgirl with massive fake breasts, injected duck lips, and a much older man on her arm.  As with the Hamptons and Martha’s Vineyard, the new money is pushing up the price of real estate sky high.  Many locals worry about losing stores like a butcher shop or pasty shop to another high-end clothing store.

FDM has become very popular with wealthy Russians.  Most of the real estate offices had signs in Italian and Russian.

I know this is going to sound nuts, but it was so weird not to see any Americans or hear English.  Yes, I live in Italy, but Rome has a lot of tourists and American expats.  All the tourists in my hotel were Italian or German. There wasn’t a single flip-flop girl sighting the whole weekend. I wonder why that is.

Above Marina di Piestrasanta is the hill town of Pietrasanta.  This small town was packed with art.  The famous artist Botero has been going to Pietrasanta for thirty years and has a home in town.  To celebrate his 80th birthday, there was a large (and free) exhibition of his work.

Versilia has been popular with artists for centuries. Michelangelo stayed in Pietrasanta.  What looks like snow on the Apuan Alps is actually marble.

On my next trip I would like to visit one of the marble quarries.  Speaking of marble, some of the SIDEWALKS in Forte dei Marmi were made from the expensive material.

I’m definitely spoiled by Caribbean beaches.  It’s strange that I would love to have a place in the area but I probably wouldn’t join a beach club.  I loved the beach town vibe but didn’t love the beaches.

People were very friendly and the food was delicious. I drank a lot of Franciacorta.

Overall, I had a great birthday weekend.  I had one moment of, “everyone is here is with someone or their family, and I’m alone” but it passed pretty quickly.   I think it helped to be surrounded by so much beauty, delicious food, and the sea.

The night of my birthday I went to the Principe Hotel roof bar for a glass of Franciacorta after dinner.  The views were stupendous.  I believe the views were the reason my glass of wine was double the price of what I paid at dinner even though it was from the same vineyard.

That’s okay, as the kids would say YOLO, you only live once.

At some point I will post about my first trip to the Tuscan coast. It’s been a little bananas during the last two weeks.  Summer is really over.

There were bikes all over Marina di Pietrasanta.  It’s very bike friendly.  My hotel had bikes but because I haven’t been on one in ages, I didn’t take advantage of the opportunity.

However, next summer I plan to rent a place somewhere in the area, so I better get over my bike issues.

I love the simplicity of this bike.  Excellent form and function.

Bike, Marina di Piestrasanta

These bikes have too much going on.  What’s with the fur?  Of course they were located in Forte dei Marmi.

Fancy bikes, Forte dei Marmi

Am I the only person who finds it difficult to work when it’s blazing hot and there’s no a/c?

Earlier in the week it was so bad, I felt nauseous all day.  I couldn’t take it anymore and on Thursday went out to Santa Marinella for a day trip.  Finally, some relief.

Santa Marinella

I have never been during high season.  It was packed.

My favorite restaurant was closed so I tried L’Acqua Marina which my friend Elizabeth likes.  The food was delicious and the view wasn’t too bad either.

Sea view from the restaurant L’Acqua Marina

I think there are more tourists in town this August.  That is great news for the economy.  Not such great news if you are a local stuck in Rome.  Almost everything non touristy (e.g. dry cleaners, newsstand, favorite restaurants) is closed. It’s the worst of both worlds. I don’t get to enjoy “quiet Rome” because my area is packed with tourists.

The majority of my friends are out of town for weeks.  Many of my American expat friends to go the States to see family and my Italian friends are traveling all over.

Plus it’s too bloody hot to do anything outside from 9:30 a.m. to about 5:30 p.m.

I know I say it (I need to get out of Rome in August) every year, but this summer broke the camel’s back.  A law was passed recently allowing places that serve “food” to stay open as late as they want instead of closing at 2:00 a.m.  So now the obnoxious bar across my very narrow street, has drunk tourists singing/fighting/yelling until 5:00 a.m.

Even with my windows shut and a fan going I can hear these fools.  I don’t think I will be able to move to a new apartment when my contract is up next year, but I will rent a place in the mountains or by the sea next summer.  I am so done.

No sleep + 100 degree temperatures = one cranky person.

How do you cope with the heat?

 

 

 

Summers in France

Summers In France is a fabulous read.

Along with photos of gorgeous interiors, there are recipes, tips on how to be a gracious hostess and guest, and information about the amazing markets near Ms. Ireland’s summer home in the Tarn-et-Garonne region of Southwestern France.

I really appreciated the before and after photos.   Ms. Ireland has taken a rundown farm house and turned it into a wonderful home.

If you’ve seen Ms. Ireland on the show “Million Dollar Decorators”, you know she has a very vivacious personality.  This comes through in the book.  It’s clear she loves to entertain and to make her guests feel at home.

The house is beautifully decorated but there is nothing stuffy about it.  It’s not easy to pull off the combo of comfortable yet chic.  I’ve flagged quite a few pages in this book.

Sigh,  I cannot wait until I can have my own home in the countryside.

I’ve written about Wonderfool the spa and concept store before.   One thing I really like about Wonderfool is how they highlight Iocal artisans.

A few weeks ago there was an aperitivi at the store and several of the designers were there.

I had a chance to speak with the très chic Daria Reina the Creative Director of Chez Dédé, a French-Italian label.  She and her partner Andrea Ferolla started the company a few years ago.  Inspiration struck the luxury goods communications consultant and the art director while they were on the island of St. Barths.

At Wonderfool they sell only their bags, but Chez Dédé also makes scarves and bracelets.  Their scarves for men, Les New Yorkaises, would be perfect for my boyfriend, if I had one.   The colors are striking and I hope they start to design some for us ladies as well.

Each bag is name for an island or a beach they have visited.  One of the newest editions is their Grand Tour bag.  It’s sporty and sophisticated. I LOVE it.  It’s a perfect bag for a longer trip.  You can fill with mementos of your journey.

Another addition to the collection is the Taormina bag.  Made with a stunning Sicilian red, this bag inspires me to book a trip to Sicily pronto.

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The craftsmanship is remarkable. Not only are these bags gorgeous, they are well made.  Daria said it was important to her and her partner to make the bags in Italy.  I’m sure Chez Dédé would make a lot more money producing the bags elsewhere. I appreciate their commitment to pay artisans well.

I’m not completely anti-fast fashion, but I’m doing my best to avoid it. I’d rather own a few things of excellent quality than buy a bunch of things from Zara/H&M/Top Shop that fall apart after two washings.  Also, I have the worst figure for fast fashion.  What looks cool on my thin and/or tall friends looks, well, cheap on me.

I adore these bags and not just because I’m an Island Girl myself. They are very “Stylish Simplicity”.

I was telling one of my friends that I couldn’t decide which one to get.  One of the bigger totes (Ciao Portofino!  Bonjour Cap Ferrat!) or the cute smaller Salina one?  I will decide after my birthday next month.

Chez Dédé 

www.chezdede.com

My friend, Erica, has written a more in-depth post on Huffington Post about Rome based apps.  I’m writing about my top three.

I receive a lot of e-mails asking me where to eat in Rome.  I love to cook and have my favorite restaurants, but I’m by no means an expert.  Instead, I suggest people buy apps by Gillian McGuire, Katie Parla and Elizabeth Minchilli.  I’ve asked them why they decided to create their apps (which is a lot of work).  Thanks for responding, ladies!

Why buy an app?  For one, they are updated frequently.  Some guidebooks become outdated the moment they are published.  Also, these apps are written by people who really know this city.  They live here.  They see the vendors they write about, know the chef/cooks at the restaurants, and capture the city in a way that someone on short term assignment cannot do.

I think they are an invaluable resource.  There are a lot of restaurants, gelato places, coffee shops, etc. here and yes, it is possible to have a bad meal in Rome. With these apps, the chances of that happening are greatly reduced.

EAT ROME by Elizabeth Helman Minchilli.  When Elizabeth was twelve her family moved to Rome.  She returned for good while studying in Florence for her dissertation.  Elizabeth has written books on design and has been writing about food, design, and travel for various publications for twenty years.  One of my favorite features of her app is the comment section. It’s great to read everyone’s experiences at various restaurants.   Elizabeth does respond to feedback which helps keep the app up to date.

“I’m a big believer in embracing all of the technical innovations that are happening in publishing. While I’ve always been happy to write for magazines, newspapers and book publishers (and continue to do so) I love the possibility that blogs and apps present. They give me not only much more control over the content, but allow exciting and extremely helpful direct contact with my readers.”

ROME FOR FOODIES by Katie Parla.   Katie grew up in the Garden State (aka New Jersey).  She started working in restaurants from a young age and moved to Rome in 2003 after graduating from college. Since her move, Katie has earned a sommelier certificate (FISAR) and an MA in the Cultura Gastronomica Italiana (Universita’ degli Studi di Roma “Tor Vergata”). Katie has has written several guide books and writes about food and travel for a number of publications. The Katie’s Picks section is great.  She has a very specific POV when it comes to food and doesn’t hold back her opinions.

“I decided to develop and app for a few reasons. I wanted to experiment with new media, find a new way to connect with readers, and monetize blog content. I had the app re-developed in order to introduce concepts of branding and improve user interface.”

ROME FOR EXPATS by Gillian McGuire.  Gillian has lived in Rome for seven years.  Prior to her move, she and her family lived in several African countries.  Her expats friends call her “The Source” for a reason.   I’ve included an expat app because there are people who travel to Rome and rent apartments and/or stay for an extended period.  If you need to know where to find an English speaking dentist, or a hairdresser, cilantro, or maybe you’re dying for a bagel, or looking for a personal trainer (to help burn off that bagel), this is the app for you.

“First, I love an assignment, so I found I was often asked the question “where can I find… x?

And second, in my seven years of living in Rome I had compiled quite a list. I partnered with the Sutro Media team and created Rome for Expats as an easy to access resource of all of that information”
Buon eating!
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