A Local’s Roman Aperitivo (cocktail) List
I’ve lived in Rome for over ten years. When I first moved to Rome, it was said that a hotel bar was the only place to get a decent cocktail. Rome was all about wine and spritzes. I thought that was a bit of an exaggeration back then and it’s definitely not true today.
A Hugo at Ciampini.
One of my favorite things about living in Italy is the aperitivo. There’s not an equivalent in the States as it’s not a Happy Hour. The word aperitivo comes from the Latin word “to open.” An aperitivo gets your stomach “open” for dinner. The Aperitivo started in the Piemonte region in the 1700s. There were certain spirits/drinks one would have before dinner. In general they were on the bitter side, low in alcohol, and some nibbles were served as well.
Now you can have all types of drinks (or something non-alcoholic) but what hasn’t changed is the social aspect and the nibbles. It’s the perfect after work meeting. Even if you’re home alone or it’s the weekend, an aperitivo is a great way to mark the end of the day.
Aperitivo is not to be confused with Apericena. That’s when a bar has a large buffet that’s included with your drink price. It’s very popular with students and anyone who’s on a budget.
I love meeting my friends (or going by myself) to the places below. Most of them have outdoor seating. There are some very popular spots that are not on the list because I haven’t been in ages or the crowd is very young. This is a grown folks list. Cin cin!
I used to go here all the time when I lived by Campo dei Fiori. Located in Piazza Navona, this is one of the few places in the area that both locals and tourists go to. It’s a beautiful piazza. I’ve been going for over ten years and I always see some of the same people there. It’s like Cheers! Service can be a molasses level of slow.
This cafe is behind the La Galleria Nazionale Museum. It’s a hidden gem with a fantastic patio. If you go after school lets out, you might have trouble finding a seat outside. Lots of local Parioli high school students are fan of this spot too.
I never went to any of the restaurants on Piazza Navona when I live nearby. Now I do. Camillo restaurant opened in 1890. The children of the previous owners took over and renovated the restaurant reaching out to locals. Camillo is a great spot right on the piazza. They have a wonderful cocktail list and you cannot beat the view.
CIAMPINI (Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina)
There are two other cafes in this piazza. If Ciampini is crowded, I will wait. Fantastic drinks and the waiters are lovely. It’s a pretty piazza as well.
ERCOLI (Parioli)
This is in my neighborhood but there’s a new one in Trastevere too. They have a serious cheese selection. My friend and I will split one of the mini cheese boards.
LA BUVETTE (Via Vittoria)
Located near the Spanish Step this is one of the few places that still has a loyal local clientele. They add different drinks to their cocktail menu depending on the season.
This is the only spot that doesn’t have outdoor seating. There’s a small bar inside the restaurant and they make great cocktails. Love the interior design. It’s chic and cozy.
Another one of my favs when I lived in the Centro. I went there a few months ago to meet a friend from Los Angeles and the drinks were still excellent. It can get very crowded so I used to go on the early side.
Speaking of crowded, get here early if you want a table outside. This spot is located in the Prati neighborhood not far from the Vatican museum. Excellent drinks and you can get trapizzino here too.
Located on top of the Fendi palazzo, this terrace has beautiful views and excellent drinks. The sushi restaurant is downstairs.
HOTELS:
Romans/locals don’t go to hotel bars. You see it more in cities like Milan, NYC, Los Angeles, Paris, London, etc., but these places do draw a local crowd too.
A Paloma on Hotel Locarno’s rooftop
Photos: Me and my iPhone
The outdoor garden backs into Villa Borghese Park. It’s an oasis in the middle of a busy city. The mini sliders are delicious! It’s pricey but the garden is so special.
The terrace bar has beautiful views, especially during the sunset. Stefano the bar manager is wonderful. Fantastic cocktails. Pricey too.
This is the hotel I stayed in during my first trip to Rome. At that time there wasn’t a roof terrace. The terrace is great and so is the bar and patio on the ground floor. There’s a working fireplace on the ground floor.
This hotel had a major renovation. The bar area is beautiful. A great spot for a cocktail near Termini.
This hotel opened last year and is ann excellent addition to the neightborhood. It’s in Parioli close to Villa Borghese Park. Great cocktails list.
HAVEN’T BEEN BUT ON MY LIST
Drink Kong was just included on The World’s 50 Best Bars list. It’s not surprising as Patrick Pistolesi is one of the best mixologists/bartenders in town. He used to be the bartender at a place down the street from me when I lived in the Centro. I haven’t made it to Kong yet but my friend Erica Firpo has interviewed him for her podcast Ciao Bella.
This hotel recently opened near Via Veneto. The W in Los Angeles was one of my spots so I look forward to checking this one out.
Where to Eat in Rome, Italy
Photo: Me and my iPhone
It’s still high season in Rome. The Historic Center is PACKED. I meant to write this post before the summer started but life was bananas (in a good way).
I’m asked all the time where to eat in Rome. Yes, it is possible to have a bad meal here. There are over 13,000 restaurants in Rome! I’m not talking about the kitchen having an off night. That happens everywhere but about the tourist traps. I walk by these places and they’re always crowded. How?
Rome/Lazio cuisine is in my top six following, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, Puglia, Sicily, and Tuscany. Visitors tell me they want to go where the locals go. However, no matter where you eat in the Historic Center there will be tourists. Here are a few places that locals go to (later at night and if they’re in town). These are places that I’ve been going to for years and/or regularly. You should make reservations, especially for dinner. In no particular order:
Cesere al Casaletto. One of my favorites. It’s way off the beaten path on the edge of Monteverde. You can take the 8 tram until the end of the line, then walk a few meters if you don't want to cab it. It’s completely on the other side of town for me but I will schlep over there. Until a few years ago, no tourists went there as it's in a nondescript building in a residential area. After several popular American Rome-based food bloggers wrote about it, the restaurant became more popular with tourists. I like to eat outside despite the busy road near by. The patio is covered with grape vines in the spring/summer. I was there over the summer with colleagues from Los Angeles. They raved about the food but were shook by the laid back service. If you’re in a hurry, this is not the restaurant to go to.
Pierluigi. Known for fish. Ordering off menu (esp. fish) could take your bill to the next level. Great place to go if you want to treat yourself/someone (or you have an expense account). I love sitting outside on the piazza. It’s beautiful. I used to live nearby on Via del Pellegrino and would stop by Pierluigi to meet up with friends just for an aperitivo at the pretty bar. It still has a neighborhood vibe despite the fact that it’s very popular with celebrities and diplomats.
In Testaccio there’s Flavio del Velavevodetto. Typical Roman cuisine. Interesting location. Known for their Amatriciana and Cacio e Pepe. Have heard mixed things about this place recently but some friends who live nearby still recommend it.
Armando al Pantheon - Delicious. It's always booked. It's one of the most popular restaurants in the Centro. Stanley Tucci featured it and now it's even more difficult to get a table. Try to book outside. The view!
Salumeria Roscioli - Located near Campo dei Fiori. The Amatriciana and Carbonara are among the BEST in Rome but service can be hit or miss.
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - This one I haven’t been to in a while. Last time I was there I had the Cacio e Pepe and it was so good. Big fan of the Saltimbocca too.
Bonci Pizza - pricey but very good. He has a stand in Centrale Mercato located in Termini train station and the tiny original is called Pizzarium near the Vatican museum. He opened a Bonci Pizza in the States. One in Chicago and one in Miami.
Marigold - Located in Otisense, this restaurant is also far from me. It’s close to one of my vendors so I always stop by before or after our meetings. It’s very seasonal and the baked goods are fantastic. Note: at the moment it’s opened for only breakfast and lunch.
Ciampini - The one in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. I tend to come here for coffee/breakfast, gelato, and aperitivo but they do have a solid menu. It’s more of a lunch spot vs dinner. Like Armando al Pantheon, it still draws locals in an area surrounded by touristy places. There’s one around the corner as well, near Fendi. I will go to that one in the winter sometimes.
Matricianella - Located near Ciampini, this is a great spot for classic Roman food. It’s gets very busy at dinner. There’s usually a wait.
I will post next month about where to have an aperitivo in Rome. That list will be longer. I cook at home, a lot. I don’t go out to eat for dinner that often because my friends here eat so late. Instead we will meet for aperitivo.