2024. A New Year. A Reboot.
Greetings from the Caribbean!
Last year I felt I aged ten years in ten months. On a personal level, losing our mom was heartbreaking. She died three weeks after her diagnosis (and we were/are worried about our dad’s health). My foot surgery, strikes, stress, the sense that everything’s a dumpster fire, multiple wars and geopolitical conflicts, extreme weather, the normalization of fascist policies and politicians, the dearth of empathy, the viciousness of online discourse, Covid, racism, sexism, ageism, etc. etc. it’s all too much. Constant flight or fight is not healthy.
A few weeks before my mom died, she said she worries about me. That I worked too much and I needed to take time to have more fun. WHAT?!
I knew then that my mom was really sick. I mean, what Caribbean mom would say this? I told her so and she laughed. She also said she had no regrets as she had a wonderful life. My mom had a point on the fun thing but who can think about having more fun while the earth is burning (literally)?
I was apprehensive about this trip, my first time since the funeral. I’ve been in a weird space most of the year and thought being here would make things worse. Instead the opposite happened. It’s as if a fog has lifted. Being in the village where my family has lived for generations is healing and grounding. I appreciate being in my paternal grandparents’ garden, happy that their trees are bearing fruit again post Hurricane Irma. I spent a few days at The Cottage and was grateful that my great grandmother, grandmother, and mom held on their land.
Of course I don’t know what 2024 will bring. I do know that I can only control how I react to what life throws my way. Even if 2024 is another struggle year, it will still be a better year. I cannot have another year like 2023 and I refuse to. I’m usually a cynical optimist but last year I went hard in the paint for cynicism.
2024 is the year of the reboot (the good kind).
Moving forward I’m going to limit my time on social media. There are some great things about it but doom scrolling doesn’t do anything but raise our blood pressure.
I’m going to do my best to stop obsessing about things I have no control over. I will donate and volunteer.
There are wonderful things happening with some of my projects and I shouldn’t feel guilty about it. I’ve worked very hard to get to this point. I used to believe that being a broke creative person was somehow keeping it real. ahahaha. Nope. I’m entering my Rich Auntie Era. Being a Rich Auntie doesn’t necessarily mean one is rich. It’s more about a point of view, a way of life. That said, run me my coins! No, really.
Between my surgery and the strikes my budget took a hit. I want to take more day trips/weekend trips this year. Italy can be a chaotic country but one thing she does very well is having an accessible high-speed train system.
Losing a parent and facing your own mortality is no joke. I need to stop waiting for the perfect time/moment to do things. The perfect time is the present as tomorrow is not guaranteed.
I intend to pay more attention to the joy, wonder, and beauty of this world we live in. It still exists but I didn’t see, or seek, much of it in 2023. 2024 will be different. Last month I said to to my friends and family that 2024 will be a great year, even if it isn’t. I’m warning people now, I will be leaning hard into the woo-wooness, feminine energy, inspired vibes of my Caribbean background and Italian life. The American can do spirit is fantastic but balance is key. I going to embrace the upside of these different cultures instead of the negative ones. Let’s see how this works out. It might be the best thing ever or a complete disaster. Either way, I plan to enjoy the process.
Here’s to a new year!
A Local’s Roman Aperitivo (cocktail) List
I’ve lived in Rome for over ten years. When I first moved to Rome, it was said that a hotel bar was the only place to get a decent cocktail. Rome was all about wine and spritzes. I thought that was a bit of an exaggeration back then and it’s definitely not true today.
A Hugo at Ciampini.
One of my favorite things about living in Italy is the aperitivo. There’s not an equivalent in the States as it’s not a Happy Hour. The word aperitivo comes from the Latin word “to open.” An aperitivo gets your stomach “open” for dinner. The Aperitivo started in the Piemonte region in the 1700s. There were certain spirits/drinks one would have before dinner. In general they were on the bitter side, low in alcohol, and some nibbles were served as well.
Now you can have all types of drinks (or something non-alcoholic) but what hasn’t changed is the social aspect and the nibbles. It’s the perfect after work meeting. Even if you’re home alone or it’s the weekend, an aperitivo is a great way to mark the end of the day.
Aperitivo is not to be confused with Apericena. That’s when a bar has a large buffet that’s included with your drink price. It’s very popular with students and anyone who’s on a budget.
I love meeting my friends (or going by myself) to the places below. Most of them have outdoor seating. There are some very popular spots that are not on the list because I haven’t been in ages or the crowd is very young. This is a grown folks list. Cin cin!
I used to go here all the time when I lived by Campo dei Fiori. Located in Piazza Navona, this is one of the few places in the area that both locals and tourists go to. It’s a beautiful piazza. I’ve been going for over ten years and I always see some of the same people there. It’s like Cheers! Service can be a molasses level of slow.
This cafe is behind the La Galleria Nazionale Museum. It’s a hidden gem with a fantastic patio. If you go after school lets out, you might have trouble finding a seat outside. Lots of local Parioli high school students are fan of this spot too.
I never went to any of the restaurants on Piazza Navona when I live nearby. Now I do. Camillo restaurant opened in 1890. The children of the previous owners took over and renovated the restaurant reaching out to locals. Camillo is a great spot right on the piazza. They have a wonderful cocktail list and you cannot beat the view.
CIAMPINI (Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina)
There are two other cafes in this piazza. If Ciampini is crowded, I will wait. Fantastic drinks and the waiters are lovely. It’s a pretty piazza as well.
ERCOLI (Parioli)
This is in my neighborhood but there’s a new one in Trastevere too. They have a serious cheese selection. My friend and I will split one of the mini cheese boards.
LA BUVETTE (Via Vittoria)
Located near the Spanish Step this is one of the few places that still has a loyal local clientele. They add different drinks to their cocktail menu depending on the season.
This is the only spot that doesn’t have outdoor seating. There’s a small bar inside the restaurant and they make great cocktails. Love the interior design. It’s chic and cozy.
Another one of my favs when I lived in the Centro. I went there a few months ago to meet a friend from Los Angeles and the drinks were still excellent. It can get very crowded so I used to go on the early side.
Speaking of crowded, get here early if you want a table outside. This spot is located in the Prati neighborhood not far from the Vatican museum. Excellent drinks and you can get trapizzino here too.
Located on top of the Fendi palazzo, this terrace has beautiful views and excellent drinks. The sushi restaurant is downstairs.
HOTELS:
Romans/locals don’t go to hotel bars. You see it more in cities like Milan, NYC, Los Angeles, Paris, London, etc., but these places do draw a local crowd too.
A Paloma on Hotel Locarno’s rooftop
Photos: Me and my iPhone
The outdoor garden backs into Villa Borghese Park. It’s an oasis in the middle of a busy city. The mini sliders are delicious! It’s pricey but the garden is so special.
The terrace bar has beautiful views, especially during the sunset. Stefano the bar manager is wonderful. Fantastic cocktails. Pricey too.
This is the hotel I stayed in during my first trip to Rome. At that time there wasn’t a roof terrace. The terrace is great and so is the bar and patio on the ground floor. There’s a working fireplace on the ground floor.
This hotel had a major renovation. The bar area is beautiful. A great spot for a cocktail near Termini.
This hotel opened last year and is ann excellent addition to the neightborhood. It’s in Parioli close to Villa Borghese Park. Great cocktails list.
HAVEN’T BEEN BUT ON MY LIST
Drink Kong was just included on The World’s 50 Best Bars list. It’s not surprising as Patrick Pistolesi is one of the best mixologists/bartenders in town. He used to be the bartender at a place down the street from me when I lived in the Centro. I haven’t made it to Kong yet but my friend Erica Firpo has interviewed him for her podcast Ciao Bella.
This hotel recently opened near Via Veneto. The W in Los Angeles was one of my spots so I look forward to checking this one out.
Where to Eat in Rome, Italy
Photo: Me and my iPhone
It’s still high season in Rome. The Historic Center is PACKED. I meant to write this post before the summer started but life was bananas (in a good way).
I’m asked all the time where to eat in Rome. Yes, it is possible to have a bad meal here. There are over 13,000 restaurants in Rome! I’m not talking about the kitchen having an off night. That happens everywhere but about the tourist traps. I walk by these places and they’re always crowded. How?
Rome/Lazio cuisine is in my top six following, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, Puglia, Sicily, and Tuscany. Visitors tell me they want to go where the locals go. However, no matter where you eat in the Historic Center there will be tourists. Here are a few places that locals go to (later at night and if they’re in town). These are places that I’ve been going to for years and/or regularly. You should make reservations, especially for dinner. In no particular order:
Cesere al Casaletto. One of my favorites. It’s way off the beaten path on the edge of Monteverde. You can take the 8 tram until the end of the line, then walk a few meters if you don't want to cab it. It’s completely on the other side of town for me but I will schlep over there. Until a few years ago, no tourists went there as it's in a nondescript building in a residential area. After several popular American Rome-based food bloggers wrote about it, the restaurant became more popular with tourists. I like to eat outside despite the busy road near by. The patio is covered with grape vines in the spring/summer. I was there over the summer with colleagues from Los Angeles. They raved about the food but were shook by the laid back service. If you’re in a hurry, this is not the restaurant to go to.
Pierluigi. Known for fish. Ordering off menu (esp. fish) could take your bill to the next level. Great place to go if you want to treat yourself/someone (or you have an expense account). I love sitting outside on the piazza. It’s beautiful. I used to live nearby on Via del Pellegrino and would stop by Pierluigi to meet up with friends just for an aperitivo at the pretty bar. It still has a neighborhood vibe despite the fact that it’s very popular with celebrities and diplomats.
In Testaccio there’s Flavio del Velavevodetto. Typical Roman cuisine. Interesting location. Known for their Amatriciana and Cacio e Pepe. Have heard mixed things about this place recently but some friends who live nearby still recommend it.
Armando al Pantheon - Delicious. It's always booked. It's one of the most popular restaurants in the Centro. Stanley Tucci featured it and now it's even more difficult to get a table. Try to book outside. The view!
Salumeria Roscioli - Located near Campo dei Fiori. The Amatriciana and Carbonara are among the BEST in Rome but service can be hit or miss.
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - This one I haven’t been to in a while. Last time I was there I had the Cacio e Pepe and it was so good. Big fan of the Saltimbocca too.
Bonci Pizza - pricey but very good. He has a stand in Centrale Mercato located in Termini train station and the tiny original is called Pizzarium near the Vatican museum. He opened a Bonci Pizza in the States. One in Chicago and one in Miami.
Marigold - Located in Otisense, this restaurant is also far from me. It’s close to one of my vendors so I always stop by before or after our meetings. It’s very seasonal and the baked goods are fantastic. Note: at the moment it’s opened for only breakfast and lunch.
Ciampini - The one in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. I tend to come here for coffee/breakfast, gelato, and aperitivo but they do have a solid menu. It’s more of a lunch spot vs dinner. Like Armando al Pantheon, it still draws locals in an area surrounded by touristy places. There’s one around the corner as well, near Fendi. I will go to that one in the winter sometimes.
Matricianella - Located near Ciampini, this is a great spot for classic Roman food. It’s gets very busy at dinner. There’s usually a wait.
I will post next month about where to have an aperitivo in Rome. That list will be longer. I cook at home, a lot. I don’t go out to eat for dinner that often because my friends here eat so late. Instead we will meet for aperitivo.
My Ciao Bella interview with JJ Martin, founder of La Double J
Buongiorno a tutti!
Erica Firpo's Ciao Bella has published my interview with JJ Martin. Yes, it's true I rave about her and her brand often but I know first hand how difficult it is to be an entrepreneur in Italy. What JJ has created is incredible.
It was truly a pleasure to sit down with this very talented and dynamic woman to discuss interior design, creativity, and living in Italy.
To The Max: Designing Milan’s La Double J Store
Brick and mortar maximalism
When I read LaDoubleJ (those fabulous maximalist dresses from JJ Martin, Patron Saint of Patterns) was going to open its first retail shop, I couldn’t wait to see its interiors, not just because I’m a decorator but also as a fan of JJ Martin’s colorful brand. As luck and business would have it, I had to travel to Milan to meet with a new client. And Erica, knowing that visiting the new La Double J store was a “must” on my list, asked me if I could write about the store. JJ was gracious to carve out some time in her busy schedule to sit down with Ciao Bella to discuss the design of her new store and her brand.
Arlene Gibbs: First question. What inspired you to open an actual store, brick and mortar, at this moment when all we hear is that retail is dead. It’s all about e-commerce. No one goes to stores anymore.
JJ Martin: Well, we started as a direct to consumer business and an online business so I totally agree with that. I don’t think it makes sense at all, these brands that were built on brick and mortar with three hundred shops around the world. It doesn’t feel relevant anymore, especially these cookie cutter shops that all look the same. When you scan these streets, you can’t even tell the difference. They all have white walls, really bright light, chrome or gold finishes.
AG: You could be on Rodeo Drive.
JJ: You could be anywhere. So, a huge network of stores was never my vision nor will it be. However, we stared in this little showroom in Milan that was our showroom, our atelier, our office, our workroom, everything, and we were also selling clothes at the very beginning from there. It literally did like five things. What we kept hearing from people all the time was, “don’t you have a place we could try on more clothes?”
To read the rest of the interview, click HERE.
Photos courtesy of La Double J.
Villa Necchi, A Must See/Do in Milan
Ciao from a rainy morning in Rome.
I know I said I was going to write on this here blog more often but work this year has been very hectic. Perhaps things will slow down during Spring '22! I'm not complaining as these are good problems to have, especially during these strange pandemic times.
I went to Milan last week, just overnight, for the Salone. The energy in Milan was incredible. I felt safe going to showrooms and events as there were Covid protocols in place. Milan and the surrounding area were hit hard last year and no one wants to return to a lockdown.
I'm writing this while still on a Design Week high. I went to Milan in July for work and I was finally able to visit this palazzo. It has been on my list for ages and seeing the movie IO SONO AMORE/I AM LOVE only added fuel to my desire. The full name is Villa Necchi Campiglio but most know it as Villa Necchi.
Villa Necchi was designed and built by architect Piero Portaluppi from 1932 -1935 for the owner of the Necchi company, Angelo Campiglio, his wife Gigina and his sister-in-law, Nedda. There were some modifications and additions added by Architect Tomaso Buzzi after WWII. His style was a bit more traditional and you can see the difference as you walk through the villa. The villa was occupied by the fascists during the war and the family called Architect Buzzi once they were able to finally return to their home.
It took my breath away and pictures do not do it justice. It's amazing to see how modern these rooms from the early 20th century look and feel! It takes serious talent to design spaces that are classic yet contemporary. Portaluppi and his clients were truly ahead of their time. The Necchis entertained often and the house's public areas layout reflect this. This house was THE place to be back in the day.
The family had no children and instead donated their home to the non-profit FAI, the Italian National Trust.
The home has a large private garden with a swimming pool and tennis courts. Remember this is in the center of a large city! The villa is also filled with art, mostly 18th century, including artists Canaletto, Marieschi, and Tiepolo.
Look at the ceiling in the library! That design is a Portaluppi signature and you see it employed discreetly through out the villa.
I won't say anything to spoil the film for those who haven't seen it yet but one of the most important scenes in the movie takes place in this location.
The bathrooms were to die for. Again, I couldn't believe there were built in the 1930s. The veranda was another favorite room. The furniture was original and I could see those pieces being sold today. Even the utility rooms were design heaven. The Necchi family had custom Richard Ginori dinner service. I love the design of the "C" logo.
Style/fashion lovers will get a kick out of the sisters' built-in closets. The custom pieces from Gucci, Ferragamo, and Hermès are gorgeous. Quality and design like that never goes out of style.
The guides were very helpful, bilingual and there were two or three on each floor. I cannot recommend visiting this gem enough. My pictures and videos from this fantastic tour are in my Instagram highlights.
Buon weekend!
All villa photos: Giorgio Majno, © FAI — Fondo Ambiente Italiano
Dream of Italy: Travel, Transform, and Thrive
Buongiorno from Rome!
Things have been quite hectic here even though we're in the middle of summer. I'm staying put this year. I might go away for a long weekend in late August but it depends on what's going on with this Delta variant.
The tourists are back. Not pre-pandemic number of course but what a change from a few months ago. People are so excited to be here. For those who love Italy and/or would like to do some armchair traveling, there's a special Dream of Italy episode currently airing on PBS stations nationwide (USA). It's part of their pledge season, with a notable appearance by actor Joe Mantegna, with host Kathy McCabe.
Kathy and I looking at the gorgeous architecture on Via Monserrato. One of the prettiest streets in Rome.
In this special Kathy interviewed expats/immigrants who have moved to Italy part-time or full-time. She focuses on eleven essential elements of the Italian lifestyle – the land, food, family, art & culture, beauty, pace of life, passion, movement, community, celebrations and sense of home– through our stories. Kathy discusses how one can incorporate the values, inspiration, and beauty of Italy into their lives. There are also practical tips for people who are interested in moving to Italy for a sabbatical or permanently.
Interview with Kathy at Cantiere Galla Design showroom. I spend a lot of time here for clients.
Some of the people who were interviewed (Sting, Trudie Styler, Francis Mayes, Francis Ford Coppola) are very famous. Some, ahem me, are not. We all have unique stories and experiences of how and why we came to Italy. For more information and to find the airdates for your area click HERE. At the moment it's only airing in the USA and some areas in Canada that receive PBS stations. It should be on available for international viewers in 2022.
Some BTS with friends on the rooftop terrace of Hotel de la Ville.
This special was filmed before the pandemic. I'm thrilled to be a part of this program that speaks to the wonderful things about living in Italy.
Chatting with Ciao Bella!
I know I'm late to the game but I've just recorded my first podcast interview. I have mentioned my friend Erica Firpo's podcast CIAO BELLA on social media before. It's fantastic and I'm not saying that because she's a close friend.
This description of Ciao Bella sums it up perfectly.
"Italy's 21st-century creators - contemporary artists and artisans, heritage brands and innovative aesthetes, chefs, experts and more who are defining, redefining and evolving Italy.
Fashion. Food. Art. Travel. Design. Innovation. Tradition. And more. Cocktail conversations and behind-the-scenes visits that will make you want to pack your bags and go!"
I'm thrilled to be in the company of other Italy based creatives and to discuss what it is we love (and sometimes don't love so much) about this country.
In this episode we talked about working in Italy, interior design, Reno Italiano, and the beach house project I recently finished in Anguilla, BWI.
Erica and I met at Ciampini Caffe, one of our favourites places in Rome. Of course while we were there, construction started on an apartment above us.
Rome Report – What’s In Season At The Farmers Market?
Buongiorno!
It’s good to be home. I do miss my family, the beaches, and the warm baguettes, of course but three months is a long time to be away.
One thing I love most about living in Italy is grocery shopping. Yes, that’s correct. When I lived in Los Angeles, I had business lunches and dinners almost every weekday (and some weekends). When I did cook, I would think about what I wanted to make and then go to the Gelson’s in my neighborhood or to Bristol Farms and buy what I needed.
I was a big fan of the Santa Monica Farmers’ market and maybe one or two Saturdays a month I would hop on The 10 and pay $30 for three green peppers. The produce was outstanding but very expensive. The market was open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.
When I moved to Rome and found the Trionfale Market I couldn’t get over the quality of the ingredients (Santa Monica level) and how reasonably priced it was. One third to half of what I was paying in Campo dei Fiori’s market. I do have excellent supermarkets in my neighborhood but I buy all my produce and occasionally meat and fish at the market. My meat consumption plummeted once I move to Italy. I eat more grains and vegetables now, it’s easier here. I don’t miss the meat and when I do buy it, I know where it’s coming from. Meat is definitely more expensive here than in the States. It’s a once a week thing or maybe once every other week.
I had to completely rethink how I cook and shop for food after I moved here. One day I wanted to make a broccoli frittata. I cannot tell you why I was fixated on that dish that weekend but I wrote out my little list and off to the market I went.
I got to Trionfale and there was no broccoli to be found. It wasn’t in season. I was thrown! One vendor told me I could probably buy some at a supermarket but he warned me that it wouldn’t taste that great. Now, I have a better sense of what’s in season. I do cook “international” foods as well but even then; I try to keep it seasonal. I know my palate has changed since I've moved to Rome. For example, I used to eat tomatoes all the time that had no flavor. I spent my formative years in New Jersey. I know good tomatoes. My dad used to grow them in our vegetable garden yet, there I was buying tomatoes that tasted like cardboard. Never again! Even the out of season supermarket tomatoes here tastes better.
I’ve been gone a while so I was very curious to see what currently was in season. I went to the Mercato Flamino II.
Look at these beauties!
Puntarelle found only during the winter. The salad, made with garlic and anchovies, is very Roman (and very good).
This neighborhood is east of mine. It’s a bit of a walk but not as far as Trionfale. I usually go to Trionfale if I need to see my butcher. There’s a great butcher closer to me but we call them Diamonds.
These markets are open six days a week Monday – Saturday. There are two small ones very close to my house or I can go to the bigger ones in Trieste, Prati, or near Termini.
The market by Circo Massimo (open on weekends) is outstanding. That market is local. Farmers and food from this region only.
Buon weekend a tutti!
Work in Progress - Anguilla, BWI
We’re almost done!
I'm getting ready to take the ferry back to St. Martin for a few days and then I'm going home. I do miss pain in the butt (sometimes) Rome but thrilled/relieved I was able to finally make it to the job site in Anguilla.
Building a new beach house on a small island when you live thousands of miles of away isn’t easy. Trying to finish said beach house during a global pandemic is:
My sister-in-law and I spent an entire week unpacking boxes from the Miami container. Our fourteen-day quarantine wasn’t too bad thanks to the Bubble System here in Anguilla.
Several potential guests have asked if there’s a pool. Not at the moment but the goal is to build one soon. In the meantime, there’s a fantastic beach for swimming. This isn't photoshopped. The water on Meads Bay is really this color during the midday. The sunsets are gorgeous as well.
Buon weekend a tutti!
Grazie, Thank You, Merci!
Greetings from a construction site.
I'm finally out of my fourteen day quarantine here in Anguilla. The contractor and his crew have returned to the job site. I spent the first week of quarantine at the boutique hotel Frangipani. I was supposed to be there only two nights but there was no way my sister-in-law and I could start our quarantine at The Cottage while the crew was finishing up the bathrooms.
I watched the premiere of RENO ITALIANO in my hotel room. To say it was a surreal experience would be an understatement. The first week after RENO aired was bananas, so many emails and messages. Speaking of bananas, that's the situation here as we finish this house. So this is just a quick note to say thank you to everyone who watched, helped spread the word, left comments, emailed, Tweeted, Instagrammed, etc. etc. I've read every single note and I'm very grateful for the wonderful feedback.
I've received a ton of questions asking me if HGTV will rerun the pilot, will it be On Demand, or on Discovery Plus, and if RENO ITALIANO will become a series. I don't have any information at the moment. If that changes in the future, I will post about it on social media.
Returning to my long punch list.
Buon weekend!
Introducing RENO ITALIANO, our HGTV pilot!
I can finally talk about it and I’m trying to be zen. As if it’s just another day at the office.
However, I have zero chill and I’m completely geeking out. The renovation TV show pilot I’ve been working on will air this Friday on HGTV. Yes, that channel. Seriously, what is my life right now?
Our show is called Reno Italiano and it’s on at 11:30 a.m. EST (USA) between Flip or Flop and Love It or List It. Check local time for listings.
The house is located in Arpino, a small hilltop town between Rome and Naples, and the views are gorgeous. It’s over two hundred years old and had been abandoned for sixty years. This was not an easy renovation and we were doing it in Italy on a very narrow street. However, we had a great team and you’ll get to meet them during the show.
My clients, Tracy and Matt, are American and couldn’t see their house (once the renovation started) until it was finished! Can you imagine? I’m grateful for the trust they placed in us and that we were able to make their Italian dream home a reality. I’m also grateful for our excellent project managers Kylie and Antonio, phenomenal contractor Bruno, and last but not least our on point geometra, Michele.
Regarding the non-renovation part of this process, I learned a lot. It’s one thing to be an assistant or a producer on set. Being in front of the camera? Weird. I was in good hands though with my producers Kip and Rich and our showrunner Katie. This unscripted world is new to me and fascinating.
We can’t share any BEFORE or AFTER pics before the show airs. I can tell you that it’s a stunning transformation so set your DVRs.
Follow along on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtags #renoitaliano and #hgtv.
Lockdown in the Caribbean - No Liming
Greetings from my parents’s veranda.
Liming is Caribbean slang for hanging out. Spending time with family and friends. A party. There’s no liming going on here.
I arrived in St. Martin a day before all Air France flights to and from Italy were canceled. Sheer luck. I had booked my trip after a major project in Italy was postponed due to the CDC raising the travel alert to Italy. My American clients were unable to fly to Italy and I needed to go the Caribbean for our Anguilla beach house project.
When I arrived in St. Martin, in mid-March, I had to self-quarantine for fourteen days. I spent a lot of time in my room and on the veranda, far away from my parents. I was stressed out. I felt fine and we didn’t have a major outbreak in Rome. However, I knew that Covid-19 was highly contagious and it’s possible to be asymptomatic.
During my quarantine period, we (France and French territories) were placed under a strict lockdown. It was supposed to end on April 3rd. It was extended to May 11th.
We’re hoping some restrictions will be lifted in two weeks. It’s been a difficult period. We’ve been very fortunate here on the French side with very few cases of Covid-19. I’m curious to see how the local governments will reopen the borders. I can’t imagine cruise ships with thousands of people docking on the Dutch side any time soon. How will they test for the virus? What about international flights?
Anguilla has no cases at all. They completely shut down their borders. I won’t be able to get to the construction site until sometime (maybe!) late next month.
I’m glad that my parents are not alone during this lockdown. I’m the designated grocery store shopper for them and other elderly relatives. I’ve never been so excited to go to a grocery store or a pharmacy in my life! I put on a nice (but casual, it is the Caribbean) outfit for my once a week trip. I skip lipstick as we must wear a mask. We’re allowed to go outside in/near our neighbourhoods to workout/walk dogs. We have special documents with us whenever we leave the house. The Gendarmes are not messing around.
I did hit a rough patch a few weeks ago but I’m on the other side now. It could be because we’re seeing the positive results of the lockdown and know that better days are coming here and in Italy. I’m worried about the States.
I hope wherever you are, you’re safe and well.
Looking forward to having a rum punch on this beach, Friar’s Bay.
The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *
Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.
This view.
Livia getting her Prosecco on.
Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met. Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude. Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth. She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer. Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.
The lunch Violante prepared was delicious. The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous. I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.
Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.
Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.
Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.
As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.
Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.
Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.
We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.
We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.
Caffe realness.
It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.
The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.
Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.
Plate designed by Violante.
Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.
Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.
BANANAS!
Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events. For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.
*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.
Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.
I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan. I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.
Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.
It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me. However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.
My friend Marta and I met for brunch. Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10. It’s a good thing we did. The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m. The space is lovely. It’s minimalist/modern yet warm. The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful. The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.
We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.
I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.
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Closed on Mondays.
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679
Marcello Mastroianni Exhibit at the Museo dell'Ara Pacis
Happy New(ish) Year!
I’ve read it’s okay to say this until the end of the month. I made it just under the wire. I cannot believe February 1st is next week.
I’ve been meaning to check out the new exhibit at the Ara Pacis since the day it opened. It closes February 17th. If you live in Rome or are planning to visit, I recommend seeing it.
I loved learning more about Mastroianni’s childhood and family. I knew he was a stage actor for years before becoming a film star but had not seen many photos from that era. I didn’t know producer Dino de Laurentiis (grandfather of Giada) wanted Paul Newman for the lead in “La Dolce Vita”. Fellini said no. I’m trying to picture how different the film would’ve been.
Mastroianni was very handsome and had charisma for days but didn’t want to be seen as the cliché “Latin Lover”. In many films he upended the stereotype, playing anti-heroes who didn’t know how to deal with shifting gender roles, political/economic instability, and changing social mores.
Along with set photographs, one sheets, and short clips from several films, there were also a few costumes from his movies, including an iconic dress worn by Sophia Loren.
The exhibit is well organized, translated (English), and curated. If you love movies, the arts, Italian history, it’s a must.
Photos:Museo dell'Ara Pacis
Museo dell'Ara Pacis
Lungotevere in Augusta - 00186 Roma
Opening hours
Open daily, from 9.30 to 19.30
Last admission 1 hour before closing time
Italian Chic - by Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla
I have written about Franco - Italian Chez Dédé before. I heard about this incredibly talented and creative couple, Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla, from the late great Wonderfool. My friend Courtney and I met the lovely Daria at the store/spa and wanted to buy all their bags.
Daria and Andrea are quite modest. I didn't learn until this year (!) that they are the ones responsible for the typography of Pasta Garofalo, one of my favorite pasta brands. Okay, now that I think about it, this isn't a topic that would come up in everyday conversation.
There was some skepticism when they first opened their store. Why Rome? Why not Florence or Milan? An atelier/boutique/gallery like Chez Dédé would make more sense in those cities. There has been a great deal of negative press (local and international) about the state of Rome these days. Yes, the situation could be better and it's important not to ignore what is happening but walking into their shop is a much needed reminder of the reasons why we fell in love this city and country in the first place.
Their book ITALIAN CHIC is a must for anyone who loves Italy, photography, illustrations, or/and travel. It's not a guide book per se but more of a coffee table book filled with beautiful imagery. It was just published by Assouline and is available at their shops or online. The Chez Dédé store has a few limited edition copies left with a special cover featuring my beloved Sicily.
Photographed by Daria and illustrated by Andrea, ITALIAN CHIC is an intimate peek at some of their favorite places in Italy, from top to bottom. It's a love letter of sorts to a country that has inspired them. As Daria and Andrea said to Architectural Digest, “If we were not in Italy, then Chez Dédé simply would not exist,” Reina says. “We are both in love with Italy and the Italian lifestyle is certainly an integral part of our entire creative process.” Ferolla adds, “Italy cultivates the excellence of the ‘well done’ and of the simple and sophisticated style. Daria and I are heirs of this culture that reflects in each and every expression of Chez Dédé’s creative thinking.”
Daria and Andrea will be in New York City the week of October 14th for book signings. There will be an installation of Andrea's illustrations in one of Bergdorf Goodman's famous windows. Check their Instagram feed for more information (and because it's fantastic).
Photos (except for the cover): Assouline
The Design Files - Beautiful Plates from Pastificio Gentile
Recently I was in Umbria at my friend’s Elizabeth and Domenico’s house and I posted this photo on Instagram.
This view, tho!
Quite a few people DM’d, or emailed, me to ask where the plates were from.
I remembered Elizabeth’s Instastories from when she visited Pastificio Gentile and seeing the plates. This family owned company has been making pasta since 1876. Elizabeth wrote this post using their pasta to make two zucchini recipes.
Pasitifico Gentile also sells exclusive handcrafted plates painted by artist Rosalinda Acampora. I thought the blue and yellow ones were lemons at first. They’re yellow tomatoes (and on my wish list). Wait, all of these are on my list!
I’ve read that bloggers have ruined Chevron forever but I don’t care. This plate is fantastic.
Click here to see the rest of their selection.
Elizabeth’s new book, THE ITALIAN TABLE, will be released Spring 2019. I cannot wait to read it.
This is her table setting for a simple lunch. It was beautiful and delicious. I love how Elizabeth mixed patterns. The key is the color palette.
Table photos: Me and my iPhone
Plate photos: Pastificio Gentile
Palazzo Merulana, Rome
I noticed this large abandoned palazzo when I first moved to Rome. I wondered what the history of the building was and why it was falling apart.I found out that it was a city owned property built in 1929. It used to be the headquarters for the Health Administration. Once those offices moved, the building fell into disrepair with some sections abandoned for over sixty years.Palazzo Merulana reopened last month and it's a beauty. Stunning.The renovations took only three years and was a private-public partnership. The space now holds the important collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi. The couple focused on works created in the early 20th century, with the majority between WW 1 and WW 2. The Cerasi family owns a prominent construction company that has worked on projects such as the MAXXI Museum and other public and private works.The Cerasi Foundation would like to see the Palazzo become an important space for visual art, cinema, music, and theatre. They're working closely with several local cultural orgnaizaions. This is quite a gift to the city.A ticket to see the exhibit is four euros. There's a small, charming cafe on the ground and outdoor seating on the patio. The terrace is schedule to open in mid-July and the top floor is reserved for cultural events. 
Here is a short clip about the museum.https://youtu.be/SHw3vc-5fq0 The museum's in a very accessible location. It's about a ten minute walk from the Colosseum with easy access to the Metro and the Tram.121 Via Merulana, 00185, Rome
The Design Files - Ristorante Local, Venice
Yes, it's true that Venice has many tourist trap restaurants. Tourist traps don't care about the quality of their food (and love to over charge people) as it's a volume business, especially from the mega cruise ships. They will never see those tourists again and locals would never eat there.Do not let the bad press discourage you. There are fantastic places to eat in Venice! The restaurant Local is one of them. I'm not going to write about the food though (which was delicious) but about the interior design and overall vibe.The restaurant was opened in 2016 by brother and sister, Benedetta and Luca Fullin. The space used to be an electrical shop. It's located in the Castello neighborhood between Piazza San Marco and The Arsenale.The design like, the cuisine, is inspired by local traditional Venice but with a touch of modern international flavors.I spoke with Benedetta during our trip last month and she told they used local artisans to make, by hand, everything from the floors, to the dishes, to the lighting, etc.I absolutely love the Venetian Terrazzo floors.
They were poured by hand and hold over five thousand murrine, which were handmade in Murano. The oak table, chairs, and wine cellar were made by Pasquini Marino.The open planned kitchen is inviting. It's not a cheap restaurant (our meals were included so checked prices online) but it's not stuffy either.
The restaurant sits on a side canal, light pours in.
Local frequently showcases art, with a focus on emerging talent, from the Contini Art Gallery.It's not easy to find the right balance in a historic, popular tourist destination like Venice. Do you completely erase the past in order to stay current, or go in the opposite extreme? Local feels very much of its time and its location. I'm not a fan of eating in a restaurant that looks and feels generic. We eat with our eyes as well and the interior design and ambience of a restaurant shouldn't be overlooked. Living in Los Angeles, sometimes we had the reverse situation, gorgeous spaces that were very "in" but the food was indifferent to inedible.Twelve years had passed between my two trips to Venice. That's ridiculous. I'd like to return sooner rather than later. I look forward to returning to Local, grabbing a seat at the bar, and trying their cicchetti.
First photo and the last two photos: Me and my iPhone. Other photos: Ristorante Local
La Biennale Venice - 2018
My friend Erica invited me to join her on a press trip for the preview of the 16th Architecture Biennale. I haven't been to any of the Biennale. I follow the art, cinema, and architecture ones on social media but it's not the same.
My first (and last) trip to Venice was twelve years ago, late November. Even during off-season, the crowds in the Piazza San Marco area were quite large. The experience did not prepare for last week. More on that later.We were in Venice for only two days/one night. I would love to return to see the Pavilions I missed. Erica has a great write-up on her Instastories.Normally, we'd take a train from Rome but we had to get there in time for the press conference so we placed on a 7:00 am flight. A private boat picked us up. Not a bad way to enter the city. We had a few minutes before the press conference and met the other journalists/architects and their guests. It was a small group, only twelve of us, half were from Milan. Our hosts were wonderful and, my fellow Americans will feel me on this, I couldn't get over how organized everything was. One of the hosts flew from Milan to Rome to meet us on the flight to make sure things were on point.The theme this year is Freespace. The curators are architects Yvonne Farrel and Shelley McNamara of Grafton Architects.
After the press conference we walked over to Local, which was fantastic. It's owned by siblings Benedetta and Luca Fillun and used to be an electrical shop. I spoke more Italian in a day than I have in probably two months.We returned to the Arsenale for a guided tour of the Corderie. From there we were able to see a few pavilions before going to the hotel to check in. My favorite pavilions were the Kosovo, Canada, Italy, Bahrain, Italy, and Croatia Pavilions. I wish I had more time to spend in each one.
Erica and I decided to walk toward Piazza San Marco instead taking the boat. I was NOT READY. Remember, I've never been to Venice during high season. The crowds were on another level. I keep reading about the crowd situation but it's another thing to experience it. 28 million tourists visit Venice a year. Only 55,000 people live in Venice full-time, down from 175,000 post WWII, with around 2000 leaving every single year. AirBnB has pushed the rents sky high, and mass tourism from mega cruise ships turn streets into packed corridors during the day and desolate at night. I don't know what the answer is but this type of tourism is not sustainable.We stayed at the Bauer Palazzo and I was happily surprised to see that we had a terrace. The service was impeccable. It could be because we were with a group of journalists and architects.
As we unpacked and got ready for aperitivi I noticed a chic terrace, a floor higher, on the building next door. I asked the bartender if it was a hotel bar. He said no they were preparing for a private party. I had no idea it was the party we were going to attended. It was a little overwhelming. There was were heavy hitters from the design/architect world and folks were not playing sartorially. The Hugos, and views, were divine.
Post- reception, we had dinner on the patio of the hotel with canal view. During dinner I hear suddenly heard loud gasps. I looked to my left and saw a mega cruise ship rolling into the canal. It dwarfed the buildings. I have no words. Perhaps I'm hyper sensitive to these ships as I've seen what they've done to the quality of life for residents of the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten. I strongly believe the cons outweigh the pros.I woke up at the crack of dawn to jog and it was glorious. The city was quiet, with Venetians going to open their shops and getting ready for the new day. There were a few other tourists out jogging and some taking photos. I got lost in the side streets running toward the Rialto bridge. I didn't mind. It's surreal to be in a city where there are no cars, buses, etc. everything is brought in, and leaves, by boat. I understand why this special city has inspired writers, artists, and artisans for generations. It's a damn shame that it's being destroyed.
Erica and I had a delicious breakfast on the Bauer's rooftop terrace. We were picked up (on time!) and took a our boat to the Giardini (the gardens) to see more pavilions.
We had a guided tour of the Main Pavilion. I highly recommend checking it out. There was a very interesting scale of the NYC Project, one for a Los Angeles project, and several short films. Then we were on our own to see the rest. I have to say, I was fading fast. There was so much to take in. I missed many pavilions that I wanted to see, like Switzerland, and Antique & Barbuda. There wasn't enough time. Of the ones I made it to, America, Nordic (Finland, Norway, Sweden), Russia, France, were stand outs. I loved the roof top deck of Great Britain and France's wine set-up was very clever.
The Russian theme was about train travel and how the largest country in the world is impacted by it. There are areas that are inaccessible by train and the country spans a few timezones, There was a short film, SEVEN DAYS IN SEVEN MINUTES, regarding a man's 9,300km/5780 miles train journey to Siberia. The Pavilion was transformed into a train station with several multimedia exhibits.The Nordic Pavilion dwelt with climate change. Visually this was one of the most interesting pavilions. The large balloons inflated and deflated depending on changing environmental conditions.The American theme was Dimensions of Citizenship, which really resonated with me. There was a fascinating short film, IN PLAIN SIGHT, that used data from global space sensors showing us how humans have organized our planet. It touched on last year's hurricane season and the difference between Houston's recovering and Puerto Rico's. I was blown away by the places that had large population but no lights, and other spots with a large electrical grid but it was used only for tourists or farming.We ended our trip with an delicious outdoor lunch at Corte Sconta. Corte Sconta means, "hidden courtyard". Our meals were included in the trip so I cannot tell you how the prices were. I get the sense that Corte Sconta was the pricier of the two but it wasn't stuffy.It was hot and walking over ten miles in one day got the best of me. By the time I had to meet our group, I was completely exhausted not really physically but it was information overload. It was a lot to process.It's an incredible experience and it was unique to have these conversations in a city like Venice. I was inspired by the architects and designers I met, the Pavilions, and of course the city itself. Grazie mille, Erica.To see more photos and videos from our short trip, I've saved them in my Instastories.The 16th International Architecture Exhibition runs until November 25th, 2018.
