My Ciao Bella interview with JJ Martin, founder of La Double J
Buongiorno a tutti!
Erica Firpo's Ciao Bella has published my interview with JJ Martin. Yes, it's true I rave about her and her brand often but I know first hand how difficult it is to be an entrepreneur in Italy. What JJ has created is incredible.
It was truly a pleasure to sit down with this very talented and dynamic woman to discuss interior design, creativity, and living in Italy.
To The Max: Designing Milan’s La Double J Store
Brick and mortar maximalism
When I read LaDoubleJ (those fabulous maximalist dresses from JJ Martin, Patron Saint of Patterns) was going to open its first retail shop, I couldn’t wait to see its interiors, not just because I’m a decorator but also as a fan of JJ Martin’s colorful brand. As luck and business would have it, I had to travel to Milan to meet with a new client. And Erica, knowing that visiting the new La Double J store was a “must” on my list, asked me if I could write about the store. JJ was gracious to carve out some time in her busy schedule to sit down with Ciao Bella to discuss the design of her new store and her brand.
Arlene Gibbs: First question. What inspired you to open an actual store, brick and mortar, at this moment when all we hear is that retail is dead. It’s all about e-commerce. No one goes to stores anymore.
JJ Martin: Well, we started as a direct to consumer business and an online business so I totally agree with that. I don’t think it makes sense at all, these brands that were built on brick and mortar with three hundred shops around the world. It doesn’t feel relevant anymore, especially these cookie cutter shops that all look the same. When you scan these streets, you can’t even tell the difference. They all have white walls, really bright light, chrome or gold finishes.
AG: You could be on Rodeo Drive.
JJ: You could be anywhere. So, a huge network of stores was never my vision nor will it be. However, we stared in this little showroom in Milan that was our showroom, our atelier, our office, our workroom, everything, and we were also selling clothes at the very beginning from there. It literally did like five things. What we kept hearing from people all the time was, “don’t you have a place we could try on more clothes?”
To read the rest of the interview, click HERE.
Photos courtesy of La Double J.
Villa Necchi, A Must See/Do in Milan
Ciao from a rainy morning in Rome.
I know I said I was going to write on this here blog more often but work this year has been very hectic. Perhaps things will slow down during Spring '22! I'm not complaining as these are good problems to have, especially during these strange pandemic times.
I went to Milan last week, just overnight, for the Salone. The energy in Milan was incredible. I felt safe going to showrooms and events as there were Covid protocols in place. Milan and the surrounding area were hit hard last year and no one wants to return to a lockdown.
I'm writing this while still on a Design Week high. I went to Milan in July for work and I was finally able to visit this palazzo. It has been on my list for ages and seeing the movie IO SONO AMORE/I AM LOVE only added fuel to my desire. The full name is Villa Necchi Campiglio but most know it as Villa Necchi.
Villa Necchi was designed and built by architect Piero Portaluppi from 1932 -1935 for the owner of the Necchi company, Angelo Campiglio, his wife Gigina and his sister-in-law, Nedda. There were some modifications and additions added by Architect Tomaso Buzzi after WWII. His style was a bit more traditional and you can see the difference as you walk through the villa. The villa was occupied by the fascists during the war and the family called Architect Buzzi once they were able to finally return to their home.
It took my breath away and pictures do not do it justice. It's amazing to see how modern these rooms from the early 20th century look and feel! It takes serious talent to design spaces that are classic yet contemporary. Portaluppi and his clients were truly ahead of their time. The Necchis entertained often and the house's public areas layout reflect this. This house was THE place to be back in the day.
The family had no children and instead donated their home to the non-profit FAI, the Italian National Trust.
The home has a large private garden with a swimming pool and tennis courts. Remember this is in the center of a large city! The villa is also filled with art, mostly 18th century, including artists Canaletto, Marieschi, and Tiepolo.
Look at the ceiling in the library! That design is a Portaluppi signature and you see it employed discreetly through out the villa.
I won't say anything to spoil the film for those who haven't seen it yet but one of the most important scenes in the movie takes place in this location.
The bathrooms were to die for. Again, I couldn't believe there were built in the 1930s. The veranda was another favorite room. The furniture was original and I could see those pieces being sold today. Even the utility rooms were design heaven. The Necchi family had custom Richard Ginori dinner service. I love the design of the "C" logo.
Style/fashion lovers will get a kick out of the sisters' built-in closets. The custom pieces from Gucci, Ferragamo, and Hermès are gorgeous. Quality and design like that never goes out of style.
The guides were very helpful, bilingual and there were two or three on each floor. I cannot recommend visiting this gem enough. My pictures and videos from this fantastic tour are in my Instagram highlights.
Buon weekend!
All villa photos: Giorgio Majno, © FAI — Fondo Ambiente Italiano
The Cottage, Meads Bay Beach, Anguilla BWI - Reveal
Building and designing a new beach house on a tiny island is not the easiest of jobs.
This was a personal project and I was working with several people who all have different tastes. I wanted to incorporate everyone's ideas yet make sure the space was cohesive.
This is a cottage so nothing too fancy or formal. A cottage is more traditional. That's why we have spindles and rails on the veranda and not glass. I wanted it to be comfortable. It's Relaxed Chic. It's the vacation home of your favorite aunt and uncle who like to have a cocktail, or two, as they watch the sun set from their veranda.
The logistics! The one two punch of the strongest hurricane to ever hit the Atlantic and then two years later the first global pandemic in one hundred years didn't help. However, thanks to a very dedicated and hard working team, we did it! The Cottage is finished.
Here are two before photos:
Standing in front of what was going to be the kitchen island looking out at the sea view.
After: The sea view from behind said island. The house was designed to take advantage of the spectacular views. There was a big debate about the ceilings. Yes they are very high (over 19 ft) and the wood was beautiful but I thought staining them a dark color would be a mistake. The only natural light is coming from the bi-fold veranda doors and way on the other end, the windows in the kitchen.
We painted the walls and ceiling a softer white than the external color The color running through the house is blue with touches of yellow, and a coral red.
The countertops are poured concrete. The counter stools are from Serena and Lily. The handmade made bowl is Schoolhouse and the pomegranates came from our contractor's mom's backyard.
Almost everything has to be imported due to the island's size. I had a local carpenter make quite a few pieces. I was asked why not buy the bedside tables, in the Main Bedroom, in the States as it would be easier and probably cheaper. I did it because we already had a full container coming from America and it's important no matter where you build/renovate to support local businesses and artisans when possible.
I cannot stand it when you're unable to get a sense of place in a house. I'm a huge fan of the big American stores I sourced from but it's a good thing, especially for a new build, to mix it up. I don't like spaces that feel like a showroom. I also sourced from smaller vendors and to the trade.
The Caribbean is mix of cultures and that's reflexed in The Cottage. I side-eye the fact that one culture is usually missing despite the majority of the people who live in the Caribbean being from that culture.
The dining table was sourced at the French store La Maison in St Martin. The chairs, Amazon USA. A local upholster made the seat cushions. The fabric is from Ghana and was bought at the African Market store in St. Maarten (Dutch side). The vase is Crate & Barrel.
The view looking in from the veranda. Ceiling fans are Minka Aire. Sofa is from La Péninusle in St. Martin. Coffee table is Serena and Lily. Arm chairs IKEA. Custom seat cushions outdoor/indoor fabric Sunbrella from Showroom Tapissier in St. Martin. Side table from Home Kara in St. Martin.
I designed the custom bookcase/desk with our carpenter.
This is the view looking out from the veranda.
The kitchen. The cabinet doors were custom made by our carpenter. The pendants lights had to be a special order from Schoolhouse because of the height. Sconces and hardware are Schoolhouse as well. I decided not to do upper cabinets. This may not be practical for a primary residence but for a vacation house it makes sense. It's easier to find everything. I feel upper cabinets would look odd with these type of ceilings. They would cut the space in half.
Glassware, tableware, and small appliances are from Crate & Barrel. The larger appliances including the wine refrigerator (it's in the island), integrated dishwasher, and mircowave are GE and were bought through Sheila Haskins who is the authorised GE vendor on island.
When it came to the countertops, I knew from the very beginning they would be concrete. I like that they were made by hand and the material is perfect for this beach house style. The floors are coral stone tile from the Dominican Republic. Backsplash is Granada Tile also handcrafted.
I wanted this to be a comfortable house where people could relax and enjoy themselves. The tray is from Serena and Lily. The art work was commissioned from a young Anguillian artist, Carmel Gumbs. It's a black and white oil of Shoal Bay. B&W was a risk but with the incredible views why compete? It's different. The clients love it. Vase is Crate & Barrel. The morning of the shoot I cut some branches from our sea grape tree.
The main bedroom as the sun starts to set. The bed is Crate and Barrel. The basket is Vendredi in St. Martin. The lamps are from One Kings Lane, and the bed side tables are custom. The sheets in all the bedrooms are Boll & Branch.
Another angle of the bedroom. That view! So glad we went with these type of doors. Great for indoor/outdoor living.
The en-suite bathroom. Sconces are from Shades of Light.
I designed the custom vanities with our carpenter and contractor. We stained the wood instead of painted it. I like having some wood in the bathrooms. Warms things up a bit.
In the original plans there was another closet where the tub currently is. Where the shower is now was supposed to be the tub AND the shower. I did a walk through once the internal walls were up. I suggested we get rid of the closet and place the tub there. It's a vacation house. It's not necessary to have two large closets. I think most people would rather have a roomy shower.
Sigh. That shower.
This bedroom also has a sea views and a king size bed. Bed is from Serena and Lily. Lamps One Kings Lane. Bedside tables from La Péninsule in St. Martin. Dresser is from Crate & Barrel.
That sea grape tree has been there for ages. I would like to relax on this veranda. Chaise lounges from One Kings Lane.
The en-suite bathroom. The next bedroom (yellow room) has the same bathroom.
The yellow room. Garden View. Twin beds and dresser are Crate & Barrel. Bedside tables from La Péninsule, St. Martin.
This color was quite controversial. This room gets a LOT of sun and the color changes during the day with the light. It's called Bermuda Sun. Appropriate.
I've just read an article in Architectural Digest regarding how yellow is one of the toughest colors to work with but it's making a comeback. I stand by my choice! Plus, it's very pretty at night.
The closets were built by our carpenter.
In the hallway looking into the half-bedroom and the powder room.
The day bed is from Crate & Barrel. Floor lamp Serena and Lily.
The customs/installation drama with this wallpaper was worth every grey hair.
This is a small room. Powder rooms are the perfect space to go all out. Wallpaper is Thibault (to the trade). Sconce is Circa Lighting.
This is technically the front of the house. You walk in and your eye goes immediately to the view.
The cabinets are custom. Bench is Serena and Lily. Black sconces, hooks, and door knobs from Schoolhouse. Chrome sconce is Circa Lighting and these are in all the bedrooms as well. Art work is a print from St. Martin based artist Antoine Chapon.
Bag is from Ghana sourced at the African Market store, St. Maarten.
The very large Dutch Door. I changed it from a regular door so it's possible to keep the top open for a breeze without worrying about young children, out of eyesight, going outside .
Custom shade is from The Shade Store.
Meads Bay Beach is also famous for its sunsets. Not a bad place to enjoy them. Table, love seat, coffee table, from Le Péninsule and the yellow chairs are from La Maison, both in St. Martin. Tableware and teak candle holders (on the floor) from Crate & Barrel. Table top candle holders from Paloma & Co.
I would love to walk out of the bedroom and sit here with some rosé or rum punch.
No words regarding this view.
Sconces on the veranda are Circa Lighting. Sconces outside the veranda are Shades of Light.
Meads Bay.
Buona notte/Good night!
The logistics of this project were on the Italian bureaucracy level. One thing I would highly recommend is hiring a local project manager from the very beginning, even if you're on island. We started working with Gifford Connor mid-way through this project. Once the pandemic hit, and the borders were closed, I wasn't able to visit the job site even when I was in St. Martin just a 20 minute ferry ride away. It was great to have someone on the ground to keep everything moving forward.
Anguilla is truly a special place. She has managed to retain her soul (so far) despite the increase in tourism. The government looked at what St. Maarten did and decided not to go that route. There are no casinos and no big cruise ships. I didn't appreciate this island when I was a teenager. I thought it was too small and so boring. All my relatives were super strict and nosy. I wished I were back in Jersey at the Willowbrook or Short Hill Malls with my friends. Ha. That all changed once my parents moved back to St. Martin after retiring. I started to spend more time in the Caribbean and realized that all the things that I resented when I was younger, I needed/wanted in my life.
This property belonged to my great-grandmother Priscilla Connor. I don't know much about her and next time I'm in Anguilla I will try to look up when she was born. Her daughter Martha was born in 1898 (and lived to be almost 101 years old). The high-end luxury tourism boom took off in the '80s. Now the Four Seasons (formerly the Viceroy) is on one end of the beach and Malliouhana Hotel is on the other end. My grandmother was a widow and yet she refused to sell her land. She turned down every offer. She said it would go to her children. It did and my uncles and aunt agreed with my mom to let "the kids" build The Cottage. Everyone contributed. We're one of only two or three local families to still own property on this beach. I think of Priscilla often. I wonder what her life was like and what she would think of Anguilla today. This is more than just a beach house to us.
Doors, windows, wood, and indoor shutters sourced from Arawak Hardwoods a local company that also has an office in Florida.
All bathroom fixtures and fittings are from Quality Bath.
Builders: Ernest Fleming and Shawn Romney
Architect: Anderson Home Planners
Project Manager: Gifford Connor, APA - Anguilla Property Services
Photography: KSharp Media
Click HERE for more information regarding vacation rentals.
Chatting with Ciao Bella!
I know I'm late to the game but I've just recorded my first podcast interview. I have mentioned my friend Erica Firpo's podcast CIAO BELLA on social media before. It's fantastic and I'm not saying that because she's a close friend.
This description of Ciao Bella sums it up perfectly.
"Italy's 21st-century creators - contemporary artists and artisans, heritage brands and innovative aesthetes, chefs, experts and more who are defining, redefining and evolving Italy.
Fashion. Food. Art. Travel. Design. Innovation. Tradition. And more. Cocktail conversations and behind-the-scenes visits that will make you want to pack your bags and go!"
I'm thrilled to be in the company of other Italy based creatives and to discuss what it is we love (and sometimes don't love so much) about this country.
In this episode we talked about working in Italy, interior design, Reno Italiano, and the beach house project I recently finished in Anguilla, BWI.
Erica and I met at Ciampini Caffe, one of our favourites places in Rome. Of course while we were there, construction started on an apartment above us.
Introducing RENO ITALIANO, our HGTV pilot!
I can finally talk about it and I’m trying to be zen. As if it’s just another day at the office.
However, I have zero chill and I’m completely geeking out. The renovation TV show pilot I’ve been working on will air this Friday on HGTV. Yes, that channel. Seriously, what is my life right now?
Our show is called Reno Italiano and it’s on at 11:30 a.m. EST (USA) between Flip or Flop and Love It or List It. Check local time for listings.
The house is located in Arpino, a small hilltop town between Rome and Naples, and the views are gorgeous. It’s over two hundred years old and had been abandoned for sixty years. This was not an easy renovation and we were doing it in Italy on a very narrow street. However, we had a great team and you’ll get to meet them during the show.
My clients, Tracy and Matt, are American and couldn’t see their house (once the renovation started) until it was finished! Can you imagine? I’m grateful for the trust they placed in us and that we were able to make their Italian dream home a reality. I’m also grateful for our excellent project managers Kylie and Antonio, phenomenal contractor Bruno, and last but not least our on point geometra, Michele.
Regarding the non-renovation part of this process, I learned a lot. It’s one thing to be an assistant or a producer on set. Being in front of the camera? Weird. I was in good hands though with my producers Kip and Rich and our showrunner Katie. This unscripted world is new to me and fascinating.
We can’t share any BEFORE or AFTER pics before the show airs. I can tell you that it’s a stunning transformation so set your DVRs.
Follow along on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtags #renoitaliano and #hgtv.
The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *
Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.
This view.
Livia getting her Prosecco on.
Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met. Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude. Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth. She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer. Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.
The lunch Violante prepared was delicious. The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous. I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.
Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.
Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.
Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.
As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.
Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.
Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.
We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.
We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.
Caffe realness.
It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.
The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.
Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.
Plate designed by Violante.
Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.
Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.
BANANAS!
Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events. For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.
*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.
Work in Progress - Anguilla, British West Indies
The last few months have been off the charts hectic, in a good way.
One of the projects I’m working on is a new beach house on Meads Bay Beach in Anguilla. I don’t know how or why our job site suffered only a little damage during Hurricane Irma, the strongest hurricane ever recorded in the Atlantic. Meanwhile, just down the beach, the Four Seasons had twenty million dollars worth of damage. We were very lucky.
Hotels have rebuilt and reopened. Many of the damaged homes have been repaired. There’s still some work left to do but things are moving forward. I’m in awe at how quickly this tiny Caribbean island bounced back.
The construction should be finished in a few months.
Very early stage. The basement and cistern.
View from the veranda by the master bedroom.
View from the kitchen after we cleaned up all the sand blown in from Irma.
The ceiling almost completed.
Painting these high ceilings was a lot of work for our crew.
Master bedroom with accordion doors.
Main veranda.
View from said veranda. We will work on the landscaping once the heavy construction is done.
The other end of Meads Bay. The beach house is smack in the middle.
Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.
I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan. I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.
Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.
It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me. However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.
My friend Marta and I met for brunch. Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10. It’s a good thing we did. The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m. The space is lovely. It’s minimalist/modern yet warm. The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful. The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.
We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.
I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.
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Closed on Mondays.
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679
The Design Files - A Beautiful Colonial Renovation
I published a post earlier this year regarding how traditional interiors are “in” again. I don’t think they were ever out but I’m thrilled to see color and patterns celebrated again.
I recently read about this gorgeous renovation in New York Magazine. I enjoyed The Cut Wendy Goodman’s interesting and informative interview with Interior Designer David Nastasi and his husband Michael Stone.
The couple bought the 1922 Colonial in 2014 and started the renovations a year later. It was a lot of work as the house hadn’t been touched for decades. It was important to the new owners to keep the elegant architecture of the house while updating it for the way we live today.
It’s a stunner.
Can we talk about this entrance?! I’m not the biggest Fornasetti fan. I like it in small doses BUT their Nuvolette wallpaper from Cole & Son? Cannot get enough of it. Cannot. This is a bold choice for a traditional home. I love it.
More wallpaper to love in the dining room. It’s from the Spanish brand, Gaston y Daniela.
I’m writing a separate post about white kitchens. There is nothing dated about this one. All these windows. The mix of modern and traditional. This is a kitchen I could spend hours in.
To seem more of this wonderful renovation, the article is HERE.
Photographs by Genevieve Garruppo
Palazzo Merulana, Rome
I noticed this large abandoned palazzo when I first moved to Rome. I wondered what the history of the building was and why it was falling apart.I found out that it was a city owned property built in 1929. It used to be the headquarters for the Health Administration. Once those offices moved, the building fell into disrepair with some sections abandoned for over sixty years.Palazzo Merulana reopened last month and it's a beauty. Stunning.The renovations took only three years and was a private-public partnership. The space now holds the important collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi. The couple focused on works created in the early 20th century, with the majority between WW 1 and WW 2. The Cerasi family owns a prominent construction company that has worked on projects such as the MAXXI Museum and other public and private works.The Cerasi Foundation would like to see the Palazzo become an important space for visual art, cinema, music, and theatre. They're working closely with several local cultural orgnaizaions. This is quite a gift to the city.A ticket to see the exhibit is four euros. There's a small, charming cafe on the ground and outdoor seating on the patio. The terrace is schedule to open in mid-July and the top floor is reserved for cultural events. 
Here is a short clip about the museum.https://youtu.be/SHw3vc-5fq0 The museum's in a very accessible location. It's about a ten minute walk from the Colosseum with easy access to the Metro and the Tram.121 Via Merulana, 00185, Rome
The Design Files - Ristorante Local, Venice
Yes, it's true that Venice has many tourist trap restaurants. Tourist traps don't care about the quality of their food (and love to over charge people) as it's a volume business, especially from the mega cruise ships. They will never see those tourists again and locals would never eat there.Do not let the bad press discourage you. There are fantastic places to eat in Venice! The restaurant Local is one of them. I'm not going to write about the food though (which was delicious) but about the interior design and overall vibe.The restaurant was opened in 2016 by brother and sister, Benedetta and Luca Fullin. The space used to be an electrical shop. It's located in the Castello neighborhood between Piazza San Marco and The Arsenale.The design like, the cuisine, is inspired by local traditional Venice but with a touch of modern international flavors.I spoke with Benedetta during our trip last month and she told they used local artisans to make, by hand, everything from the floors, to the dishes, to the lighting, etc.I absolutely love the Venetian Terrazzo floors.
They were poured by hand and hold over five thousand murrine, which were handmade in Murano. The oak table, chairs, and wine cellar were made by Pasquini Marino.The open planned kitchen is inviting. It's not a cheap restaurant (our meals were included so checked prices online) but it's not stuffy either.
The restaurant sits on a side canal, light pours in.
Local frequently showcases art, with a focus on emerging talent, from the Contini Art Gallery.It's not easy to find the right balance in a historic, popular tourist destination like Venice. Do you completely erase the past in order to stay current, or go in the opposite extreme? Local feels very much of its time and its location. I'm not a fan of eating in a restaurant that looks and feels generic. We eat with our eyes as well and the interior design and ambience of a restaurant shouldn't be overlooked. Living in Los Angeles, sometimes we had the reverse situation, gorgeous spaces that were very "in" but the food was indifferent to inedible.Twelve years had passed between my two trips to Venice. That's ridiculous. I'd like to return sooner rather than later. I look forward to returning to Local, grabbing a seat at the bar, and trying their cicchetti.
First photo and the last two photos: Me and my iPhone. Other photos: Ristorante Local
La Biennale Venice - 2018
My friend Erica invited me to join her on a press trip for the preview of the 16th Architecture Biennale. I haven't been to any of the Biennale. I follow the art, cinema, and architecture ones on social media but it's not the same.
My first (and last) trip to Venice was twelve years ago, late November. Even during off-season, the crowds in the Piazza San Marco area were quite large. The experience did not prepare for last week. More on that later.We were in Venice for only two days/one night. I would love to return to see the Pavilions I missed. Erica has a great write-up on her Instastories.Normally, we'd take a train from Rome but we had to get there in time for the press conference so we placed on a 7:00 am flight. A private boat picked us up. Not a bad way to enter the city. We had a few minutes before the press conference and met the other journalists/architects and their guests. It was a small group, only twelve of us, half were from Milan. Our hosts were wonderful and, my fellow Americans will feel me on this, I couldn't get over how organized everything was. One of the hosts flew from Milan to Rome to meet us on the flight to make sure things were on point.The theme this year is Freespace. The curators are architects Yvonne Farrel and Shelley McNamara of Grafton Architects.
After the press conference we walked over to Local, which was fantastic. It's owned by siblings Benedetta and Luca Fillun and used to be an electrical shop. I spoke more Italian in a day than I have in probably two months.We returned to the Arsenale for a guided tour of the Corderie. From there we were able to see a few pavilions before going to the hotel to check in. My favorite pavilions were the Kosovo, Canada, Italy, Bahrain, Italy, and Croatia Pavilions. I wish I had more time to spend in each one.
Erica and I decided to walk toward Piazza San Marco instead taking the boat. I was NOT READY. Remember, I've never been to Venice during high season. The crowds were on another level. I keep reading about the crowd situation but it's another thing to experience it. 28 million tourists visit Venice a year. Only 55,000 people live in Venice full-time, down from 175,000 post WWII, with around 2000 leaving every single year. AirBnB has pushed the rents sky high, and mass tourism from mega cruise ships turn streets into packed corridors during the day and desolate at night. I don't know what the answer is but this type of tourism is not sustainable.We stayed at the Bauer Palazzo and I was happily surprised to see that we had a terrace. The service was impeccable. It could be because we were with a group of journalists and architects.
As we unpacked and got ready for aperitivi I noticed a chic terrace, a floor higher, on the building next door. I asked the bartender if it was a hotel bar. He said no they were preparing for a private party. I had no idea it was the party we were going to attended. It was a little overwhelming. There was were heavy hitters from the design/architect world and folks were not playing sartorially. The Hugos, and views, were divine.
Post- reception, we had dinner on the patio of the hotel with canal view. During dinner I hear suddenly heard loud gasps. I looked to my left and saw a mega cruise ship rolling into the canal. It dwarfed the buildings. I have no words. Perhaps I'm hyper sensitive to these ships as I've seen what they've done to the quality of life for residents of the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten. I strongly believe the cons outweigh the pros.I woke up at the crack of dawn to jog and it was glorious. The city was quiet, with Venetians going to open their shops and getting ready for the new day. There were a few other tourists out jogging and some taking photos. I got lost in the side streets running toward the Rialto bridge. I didn't mind. It's surreal to be in a city where there are no cars, buses, etc. everything is brought in, and leaves, by boat. I understand why this special city has inspired writers, artists, and artisans for generations. It's a damn shame that it's being destroyed.
Erica and I had a delicious breakfast on the Bauer's rooftop terrace. We were picked up (on time!) and took a our boat to the Giardini (the gardens) to see more pavilions.
We had a guided tour of the Main Pavilion. I highly recommend checking it out. There was a very interesting scale of the NYC Project, one for a Los Angeles project, and several short films. Then we were on our own to see the rest. I have to say, I was fading fast. There was so much to take in. I missed many pavilions that I wanted to see, like Switzerland, and Antique & Barbuda. There wasn't enough time. Of the ones I made it to, America, Nordic (Finland, Norway, Sweden), Russia, France, were stand outs. I loved the roof top deck of Great Britain and France's wine set-up was very clever.
The Russian theme was about train travel and how the largest country in the world is impacted by it. There are areas that are inaccessible by train and the country spans a few timezones, There was a short film, SEVEN DAYS IN SEVEN MINUTES, regarding a man's 9,300km/5780 miles train journey to Siberia. The Pavilion was transformed into a train station with several multimedia exhibits.The Nordic Pavilion dwelt with climate change. Visually this was one of the most interesting pavilions. The large balloons inflated and deflated depending on changing environmental conditions.The American theme was Dimensions of Citizenship, which really resonated with me. There was a fascinating short film, IN PLAIN SIGHT, that used data from global space sensors showing us how humans have organized our planet. It touched on last year's hurricane season and the difference between Houston's recovering and Puerto Rico's. I was blown away by the places that had large population but no lights, and other spots with a large electrical grid but it was used only for tourists or farming.We ended our trip with an delicious outdoor lunch at Corte Sconta. Corte Sconta means, "hidden courtyard". Our meals were included in the trip so I cannot tell you how the prices were. I get the sense that Corte Sconta was the pricier of the two but it wasn't stuffy.It was hot and walking over ten miles in one day got the best of me. By the time I had to meet our group, I was completely exhausted not really physically but it was information overload. It was a lot to process.It's an incredible experience and it was unique to have these conversations in a city like Venice. I was inspired by the architects and designers I met, the Pavilions, and of course the city itself. Grazie mille, Erica.To see more photos and videos from our short trip, I've saved them in my Instastories.The 16th International Architecture Exhibition runs until November 25th, 2018.
Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun
The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.
Michelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point. However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes. We took it.It was great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town. The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day. It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday. Our day trip was the perfect time to go. It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.
Montepuclciano has a population of about 14,000. It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.
As you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town. Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square. The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511. The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.
We ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano. We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria. The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee. Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do. These views are worth the price
I must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio. The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
The Design Files - The Authentics
The Authentics: A Lush Dive into the Substance of Style by Melanie Acevedo & Dara Caponigro, is gorgeous book that takes us into the beautiful homes of dynamic people who work in a variety of creative fields.
Ms. Acevedo is a well known photographer. Ms. Caponigro was one of the founders of DOMINO magazine and is currently the Creative Director of F. Schumacher & Co., the legendary fabric, wallpaper, and rug company.This is a book I will reference time and time again. Some of the names are famous in the design world, like Kelly Wearstler, Miles Redd, and Nicky Haslam, or celebrities such as actress Peggy Lipton and hair stylist Sally Hershberger. There are landscape architects, jewelry designers, chefs, etc. All have an unique point of view.Some of the rooms or gardens might be a bit "much" but I love that in a homogenized world there are people who surround themselves with things that they enjoy regardless of popularity.
Visually, this coffee table book is a knockout. It has thick quality paper and is beautifully photographed.The interviews with these talented creative people were very inspiring. It's easy, thanks to social media, to see the same images again and again. At first everyone is excited and then the same people start to complain that the image is played or trite. The Authentics create their spaces in a way that speaks to their interests, loves, and passions. That approach will never go out of style. 
Design Inspiration - Palazzo Reale, Naples, Italy
The Royal Palace of Naples is a must on my list of things to do in Naples. I wasn't able to visit until my third trip and now I want to return just so I could spend more time there.The audio tour is interesting and informative. Palazzo Reale is one of four royal palaces in and near Naples. Construction, with prominent architect Domenico Fontana, started in the 17th century by the Spanish Viceroys initially as a home to host the visiting King of Spain. He never came (so rude!) and the palace eventually became the home of various rulers, including the Bourbons and the Savoys. The Kingdom of Naples was fought over by the French and Spain for centuries. At times the Kingdom included most of southern Italy, and Sicily.The Palace was expanded over the years. Napoleon's sister, Caroline, lived in the Palace with her husband Joachim Murat (aka the Dandy King) who was the King from 1808-1815.The building suffered extensive damage from bombing during WWII but was restored.Below is the main staircase. It was very cloudy and overcast when I arrived. I still gasped when I walked in and saw this space. Pictures do not do it justice.
View from the top of the stairs.
This ceiling is unreal.
Close up of another ceiling. Gorgeous.
This floor tho.
How nice to have your own theatre.
And your own chapel.
A less ornate space. Love the simplicity of this light fixture.
Love this ceiling too. I chuckle when I hear the color grey is too trendy so now it needs to be over. I disagree. It's a classic.
The ballroom.
It was starting to clear up as I walked out. There's a view of the sea from several of the rooms but it was hard to get a photo without the scaffolding. The gardens are not public but there is an interior courtyard with a fountain.
Photos: me and my iPhone
The Design Files - Interior Design Master Class
Edited by Carl Dellatore, INTERIOR DESIGN MASTER CLASS: 100 Lessons From America's Finest Designers On The Art of Decoration, is an outstanding book.Although it's geared towards students of design and professionals, this book would appeal to anyone who's curious about interiors.The book is divided into six sections: theory, structure, style, process, elements, and inspiration. Within these sections, A-list interior designers and decorators discuss everything from floor plans, lighting, comfort, color, texture, etc. etc. This insightful peek into their process, inspiration, and interiors is a real treat. The designers range from well-established legends of the industry to the new guard.MASTER CLASS is packed with useful information and it's also gorgeous. I loved it.This book will be a classic. 
"See Naples and Die."
This is a phrase coined in the mid-1800s during the reign of the Bourbons. At the time Naples was the third most populous city in Europe after London and Paris. It was also one of the wealthiest.I prefer to agree with the original meaning of the phrase and not the "if you go to Naples you will die because it's so dangerous" image the city had for years.I first went to Naples in 2007 on a day trip during my second trip to Italy. I met the lovely Tracie P, then know as Tracie B. I don't believe that was almost eleven years ago! My last trip to Naples was with Erica in 2009. I thought it was four years ago at most.I cannot tell you how many people back then worried for my safety when I told them I was going to Naples. One friend said he hated the place as he was mugged literally five minutes after he walked out of the main train station. Naples was mentioned in the international press mostly for its pizza, the mafia, and a major garbage problem. During both trips I could count the number of American tourists on one hand. One famous guidebook said if Rome was overwhelming, don't go further south. Naples is Rome squared.I loved the energy of Naples during those early trips, even with the garbage situation. There's no place like it. It reminded me a little of pre-Disneyfied New York City.Not sure what the heck took me so long to return but I was shocked at the change. The city is cleaner than Rome. There are more American tourists. Fuelled in part by the popoluarity of the Ferrante book series, the international press is writing about the great things happening in Naples. Naples is "in". Are there still problems, yes. I recommend using the same precautions you would in any major, densely populated city. Leave the fancy watches, rings, etc at home or in your hotel safe.I wasn't as overwhelmed during this trip. It could be because I live in a walking city again whereas during my the first trip i was coming from Los Angeles where your car is a cocoon. I'd visited the archeological museum and Castel Nuovo on those trips. I wanted to see a few places I missed.My first stop was the Museo Capella Sansevero. You buy your ticket (€7) at the small nearby center/office . There was a long line to enter but it moved quickly. You cannot take any photos inside. It's not the easiest to find. It's on a small side street but my Google maps was on point.This is a church I would return to again, maybe in the dead of winter/off season so I could have more time to take it all in. I now understand why the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino is considered one of the most incredible sculptures in the world.I know this is all marble yet I have a hard time believing it.
Prince Raimondo di Sangro commissioned the young Sanmartino to create this work for his family's chapel. The Prince was a well-known alchemist and bold experimentalist. There are several other incredible works in the chapel inculding a poignant Pudicizia by Antonio Corradini, whose veiled female figure next to a cracked plaque, honors Raimondo's mother, Cecilia Gaetani d’Aquila d’Aragona. He was only 11 months old when she died.
There's a little room downstairs. Folks, once I descended down the narrow iron staircase I was shook. There are two skeletins, a man and a woman. They are encased in what looks like perfectly preserved human arterial systems. Over two centuries ago, Dr. Giuseppe Salerno from Palermo, along with the Prince, created theses anatomical works. There were/are all kinds of rumors as to how these bodies came to be. Word was that the Prince killed members of his staff, injecting them with liquid while they were still alive. Others said the arterial systems are reproductions. They are fascinating and creepy. No Google search for photos. Nope. Cannot. 
I got lost and went into many churches as I made my way to the restaurant Antica Osteria Pisano. Thanks for the suggestion, Gina. The restaurant is in the Historic Center on the cusp of the Forcella neightbhood. If you've watched the third season of GOMORRA you're familiar with this mural of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples.
I asked about the pasta of the day. It was Rigatoni alla Bolognese. I was skeptical about ordering this dish outside of Bologna but Gennaro (one of the owners) told me it was delicious. He was correct.I walked off my pasta getting lost on the way to Palazzo Reale. I had the palace on my list but never made it during my last two trips.I listened to the audioguide. I highly recommend it as the history of this palace is fascinating. The palace suffered some major damage during WWII but you can still get a sense of the wealth and presitage of the era.Located in Piazza del Plebiscito, the outside is understated. I was not prepared for this.
Or this.
I was overwhelmed by the beauty and will have to write a seperate post about the interiors and history of this palace.The seafront is very close to this piazza, just down the hill. I decided to walk along the sea on my way to the Chiaia neighborhood. A large section of the Lungamare is a car-free zone. This was started in 2012 and what a great idea. People, mostly locals, were out and about enjoying the sunny weather. There are plenty of caffes and restaurants
I didn't get to spend much time in the Chiaia area because I had to catch my return train. Chiaia is an upscale neighborhood where you find your luxury local shops and some of the international brands like Prada. I popped into a small enoteca, Belledonne, for a glass of wine. It was excellent and €6.I made my way to the closet Metro stop. I found the signage a little confusing but asked for directions.I took the fast Italo train. It's only an hour and usually there are great deals during the week for same day travel. I really need to spend more time in Naples.Photos: Me and my iPhone unless noted
The Design Files – Traditional Interiors are Back
Traditional interiors will be big in 2018 according to various interior design articles. I never received the memo that they were "out". I don't think they ever went away, especially in cities like New Orleans, Charleston (SC), and Washington, DC.I don't belive in following trends. It's helpful to know what is going on in the world of design but the client's tastes and the architecture of the home are much more important than what's trending. For example, installing barn doors everywhere. I adore them. However, sometimes a room needs a regular door or a pocket door. Don't get me started on shiplap.Plus, following trends is an easy way to have your home look dated quickly. This will not help the resale value of your home (more relevant in the States where we renovate/redecorate and move often compared to other countries).I'm not surprised that people are falling back in love with traditional interiors. During a time of great uncertainty in the world, it's nice to be surrounded by something comforting and familiar. It's interesting to me that so many people thought/think of traditional interiors as very stuffy, too precious, and too old. In fact, traditional interiors are perfect for families, especially those with small children. Pieces that have been around for generations can take a beating. A little wear and tear adds character. The use of color helps hides stains and so on.Speaking of color, this is one way to make your space current and not like your great-grandmother's. Another suggestion is to mix it up. Place some modern pieces in the room. A room filled with only antiques can feel like a museum.Below are some recently decorated spaces in the traditional style. They're fun and have a lot of personality.This home in San Francisco was decorated by Miles Redd for a young family with four children. Pictures are from Architectural Digest.
Jane Scott Hodges's home in New Orleans is a bold mix of colors and patterns. She worked on her home with friend, interior designer, Gwen Driscoll. Photos are from House Beautiful.
Interior designer Darryl Carter wrote a book called The New Traditional. His spin on this aesthetic is more sculptural. He uses a lot of neutrals but with a variety of textures which gives his spaces movement. Photos are from One Kings Lane.
Day Trip to Alberobello, Puglia
Happy New Year! I hope 2018 brings you much joy, peace, and happiness.I have read about and seen photos of the infamous trulli. Alberobello, which we visited during our Eat, Pray, Move, retreat, was packed with many American tourists even though it was late September. I can see why. There's nothing like it. This region is the only area in Italy that has these unique buildings and there's a concentration of them in Alberobello.The white, cone-roofed houses in Alberobello are a UNESCO World Heritage site. We had a great tour guide who explained the history of the trulli. There are many theories but the most popular one (and likely) is that during the 1600's the nobility imposed a high taxation on any permanent structure. The poor farmers built their houses so the roofs could be dismantled easily, by bascially removing one stone. Very clever.We were able to tour a trullo. It was incredible to learn some of them hosted whole families and their livestock. Other homes were comprised of several trulli with each one being a separate room.Our Masseria had several trulli on its property. I love how the architects incorporated them into the modern structures. Inspiring.
There are trulli with curious symbols on them. Some are clearly religious, the others? Another area for debate.
As you enter the main street of Alberobello, there are two hills. The one on your left is the old town/Historic Center and the main tourist street. It's filled with gift shops and places to eat/drink. There are a few shops selling items made locally. The other hill is more residential and the modern town. There are several piazzas with caffes, and butchers, clothing stores, etc. etc. The restaurant EVO, where I had one of the best meals ever, is located in a quiet corner near the Basilica. I wrote more about it for the Casa Mia Blog. Grazie, Erin for arranging this unforgettable meal and wine pairing.
I suggest spending time on both hills. Alberobello is tiny. The old town does have a bit of a Disneyland vibe but don't let that stop you. The view from the "new" town is spectacular.Alberobello was celebrating its Saint's Day. On the new hill everything was lit.
We were there on a raining cloudy day so my photos of the old town are not great. Here's a better one from zee Internets.
I took this one in the backyard of a trullo in the old town that was under renovation. 
These trulli were in the new town. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Eating, Praying, and Moving in Puglia
I made it to Puglia, finally!I've wanted to visit this region of Italy for years. I was excited to learn that Eat, Pray, Move had a yoga retreat in Puglia and signed up.I wrote about my first yoga retreat which was in Tuscany. That retreat had an art component. This retreat had a Move + Manifest one.We went on days trips to Alberobello, Polignano al Mare, Martina Franca, Matera, and Ostuni. We covered a lot so instead of writing the longest blog post on earth, this is more of an overview and I will write about some of the individual towns we visited later. There was free time built into the schedule so you never felt rushed. All classes and activities were optional.We were a group of twelve women with most of us being from the States and one from Australia. It was a great group and fun to get to know everyone. Small world alert...I was speaking with one of the women and she made a passing reference to the university she graduated from. I told her that I was an alum too. We talked about our previous jobs and she mentioned a best friend, a Hollywood screenwriter, who also graduated from Syracuse University. Her friend was one of my former assistants and it was his first job in the industry. Random!Michelle's workshops were excellent and helpful. I'm slightly biased as I've worked with Michelle earlier this year. It's one thing to open up one-on-one but in a group, not so easy. On the first day I was a little skeptical about the whole thing. By the end of the week, this was me:
I went to Puglia in late September. While we had some rainy days, I've heard from my Pugliese friends that it's a great time to visit. The weather is still warm and it's less crowded. Puglia gets packed in the summer with Italians coming home from other regions, and Italian tourists. It seems that for at least the last five years, there's been a ton of press about Puglia being the "next" Tuscany. Alberobello and Matera had a lot of tourists but overall Puglia is still off the beaten path for most American tourists. It's a shame as Puglia is a beautiful region and the food is off the chain. Seriously, I cannot stress how fresh and delicious the food was. Puglia's in my top four along with Piemonte, Emilia-Romagna, and Sicily as my favorite Italian food regions.Our base was the Masseria Fumarola. It's an hour or so drive from the Brindisi airport. Thankfully, Alitalia wasn't on strike and was still solvent at the time.
The Masseria (which is what country estate houses are called in Puglia) was perfection. It's located in the heart of the Valle d'Itria area. The main farmhouse dates back to the early 1800s. Once a working farm run by the grandmother of the current owner, Masseria Fumarola was renovated by the owner's architect father. He turned it into a beautiful boutique hotel without stripping the buildings of their original charm.Love the stone floors. I was so busy enjoying the conversations and the food, I forgot to take photos of the dining room.
The Masseria is surround by six acres of woodlands that includes, olive groves, vineyards, several vegetable gardens, and orchards.
Each room/bungalow is unique. I loved how the trulli were incorporated.
The pomengranate tree outside our bunalow.
The meals we had were simple, outstanding, and very local. Most of the vegetables came from the gardens.The one day it was warm enough to go swimming in their pool, we went to the sea. We appreciated the huge fireplace in the main building during the cool evenings. We would meet there for workshops, or a glass of wine (or both) and in the morning, there were fruits, tea/coffee available for us before our 8:00 a.m. yoga class.
I was a tightly wound ball of stress when I stepped onto the plane in Rome. I'm still processing everything I learned during the workshops but physically I feel much better.I walked around the property at sunrise. I was greatful for the stillness, the scents, the freshness of the air, and the beauty of it all. My yoga has improved by leaps and bounds since the summer. This time my mind didn't wander. While Erin's classes sometimes kicked my butt (my abs were on fire the next day) I looked forward to that hour and fifteen minutes.Rome can be a very difficult city and this year has really tested my perseverance. During my trip to Puglia, I was able to reconnect a bit with the main reasons why I moved to Italy in the first place.I cannot wait to return to Puglia. Bari and Lecce are on my list.
Photos: Me and my iPhone, except for the pool photo from Masseria Fumarola.