Rome, Travel, Travel in Italy Arlene Gibbs Rome, Travel, Travel in Italy Arlene Gibbs

Where To Go In Rome

I’m not surprised by how crowded Rome is these days even though we’re months away from the height of the high season. My friends who work in hospitality here tell me that hotels are booked solid until November (!) with August pretty available. More restaurants and cafes are staying open during August in the Historic Center now. However, I still don’t recommend Rome in August, especially if it’s your first trip. It’s too hot and the locals who don’t work in tourism/hospitality clear out. Did I mentioned how hot it is?

I’m receiving so many emails and DMs regarding where to go/what to do in Rome. I wrote a post where to eat HERE and where to drink HERE.

Below are my suggestions:

The Galleria Villa Borghese.  This is the museum I suggest people go to if they don't have time to visit the Vatican Museum (or even if they do).  It's small. There’s a two hour limit.  You have to make reservations and can do so online. The permanent collection is fantastic. It’s in a beautiful villa in one of Rome’s prettiest parks. I recommend spending time in Villa Borghese Park too.

Museum Palazzo Altemps - near Piazza Navona, unless a student group is on a field trip, this museum is rarely crowded. Tiny but interesting.  Wrote about it HERE

Outside of the Centro Storico is Montemartini. Very unique space. Wrote about it HERE

Another favourite (and often overlooked) museum is Galleria Doria Pamphilj - get the audio tour. It’s narrated by a member of the family.

Museo dell Ara Pacis - The exhibits change but the altar created for Augustus, 9 BC, is upstairs. The building, designed by architect Richard Meier, was quite controversial as it’s one of the few newish/modern buildings in that area and people said it looked like an air conditioning unit.

Capitolini Museum - One of the oldest museums in the world, you will find a lot of history and pieces from Ancient Rome. The views from Piazza del Campidoglio, and the cafe of the museums, are great. This is where City Hall is located.


There are over nine hundred churches in Rome, some favorites:

San Clemente  - it's worth the fee to go down to the ground level to see relics from when it was a pagan temple

Santa Maria del Popolo - the Caravaggios

Santa Maria in Trastevere  - the mosaics 

San Luigi dei Francesi - this is the French Catholic church in Rome. More Caravaggios

Santa Cecilia in Trastevere - located on the quieter side of Trastevere

Sant’ Agnese - in Piazza Navona

Santa Maria in Maggiore Basilica - that ceiling

Saint Peter's Basilica - note, there can be long security lines

San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane - this small church is a Borromini masterpiece and many people walk right by it

Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza - another Borromini masterpiece. Sometimes there are free concerts in the courtyard

Basilica Santa Anna Maria in Ara Coeli - located next to Piazza del Campidoglio (there are a lot of steps) this church is the church of Rome, Senatus Populusque Romanus. I went to a midnight Christmas Mass here and it was very moving.

Not a church but a cemetery. Cimitero Acattolico, also known as the Protestant Cemetery, is where many famous poets, artists, writers, etc., who were not Catholic and/or Italian are buried. The grounds are beautiful. Shelley himself said so and he was buried here after he drowned in the Bay of Lerici.



Of course:

The Trevi Fountain - gets crowded... go very early or late

Piazza Navona - the Bernini fountain!

Piazza Farnese - it’s very close to Pz Navona. Palazzo Farnese is the French Embassy and there are two pretty fountains in this piazza.

Views from the Giancolo HIll - The fountain is breathtaking too

Doria Pamphilj Park - Along with Villa Borghese, this is one of the largest parks in Rome

The Pantheon - get there early or before the cruise ship lines.  

The Colosseum/The Forum - It’s a good idea to get a guided tour, especially for the Forum

The Old Jewish Quarter - Second only to Venice, this is one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world. Of the 1023 citizens deported to Auschwitz, only 16 survived. Keep an eye out for the Sampietrini stones covered with a brass plates with their names in front of their homes. This is where the infamous Turtle Fountain is located.

The View from the top of the Spanish Steps - on a clear day it’s quite pretty and I love the Bernini fountain at the bottom of the steps in Piazza di Spagna

Interesting neighborhoods outside the Centro Storico:

EUR - for the history and fascinating architecture. Read more HERE.

Garbatella -  read more HERE.

Walk along Via Appia Antica.  Car traffic is limited on Sundays to the few people who live on the Appia.  Read more HERE.


SHOPPING:
Check out the stores on Via Babuino (high end) and in Monti (mid-to high).  Both streets have clothing and design stores.

For design, Via Margutta has some great shops, like the store BLEND (which changed its name from Flair).

Chez Dede on Via Monserrato is wonderful and one of my favourite stores in Rome. The whole street is great for shopping. 

Many of the international luxury brands, Prada. Gucci, etc. are on Via Condotti and its side streets.


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It’s Christmas Time in Rome!

I love Rome this time of year. So festive.

Store windows aren’t a thing here like NYC, Paris, or London but there are plenty of street decorations. I’m happy to report that the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona is back and the Christmas Tree in Piazza Venezia is not a train wreck this year.

It’s a great time to visit. Book in advance though. The weeks between Christmas and Befana are popular and the Historic Center will be packed.

Work has been bananas but I did managed to take some photos this week after running errands for a client.

I’m trying to make more reels. Below is my latest attempt featuring a classic Christmas song.

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Life In Rome, Italy, Aperitivo, Travel in Italy, Rome Arlene Gibbs Life In Rome, Italy, Aperitivo, Travel in Italy, Rome Arlene Gibbs

A Local’s Roman Aperitivo (cocktail) List

I’ve lived in Rome for over ten years. When I first moved to Rome, it was said that a hotel bar was the only place to get a decent cocktail. Rome was all about wine and spritzes. I thought that was a bit of an exaggeration back then and it’s definitely not true today.

A Hugo at Ciampini.

One of my favorite things about living in Italy is the aperitivo. There’s not an equivalent in the States as it’s not a Happy Hour. The word aperitivo comes from the Latin word “to open.” An aperitivo gets your stomach “open” for dinner. The Aperitivo started in the Piemonte region in the 1700s. There were certain spirits/drinks one would have before dinner. In general they were on the bitter side, low in alcohol, and some nibbles were served as well.

Now you can have all types of drinks (or something non-alcoholic) but what hasn’t changed is the social aspect and the nibbles. It’s the perfect after work meeting. Even if you’re home alone or it’s the weekend, an aperitivo is a great way to mark the end of the day.

Aperitivo is not to be confused with Apericena. That’s when a bar has a large buffet that’s included with your drink price. It’s very popular with students and anyone who’s on a budget.

I love meeting my friends (or going by myself) to the places below. Most of them have outdoor seating. There are some very popular spots that are not on the list because I haven’t been in ages or the crowd is very young. This is a grown folks list. Cin cin!

BAR CAMPONESCHI

I used to go here all the time when I lived by Campo dei Fiori. Located in Piazza Navona, this is one of the few places in the area that both locals and tourists go to. It’s a beautiful piazza. I’ve been going for over ten years and I always see some of the same people there. It’s like Cheers! Service can be a molasses level of slow.

CAFFE DELLE ARTI

This cafe is behind the La Galleria Nazionale Museum. It’s a hidden gem with a fantastic patio. If you go after school lets out, you might have trouble finding a seat outside. Lots of local Parioli high school students are fan of this spot too.

CAMILLO

I never went to any of the restaurants on Piazza Navona when I live nearby. Now I do. Camillo restaurant opened in 1890. The children of the previous owners took over and renovated the restaurant reaching out to locals. Camillo is a great spot right on the piazza. They have a wonderful cocktail list and you cannot beat the view.

CIAMPINI (Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina)

There are two other cafes in this piazza. If Ciampini is crowded, I will wait. Fantastic drinks and the waiters are lovely. It’s a pretty piazza as well.

ERCOLI (Parioli)

This is in my neighborhood but there’s a new one in Trastevere too. They have a serious cheese selection. My friend and I will split one of the mini cheese boards.

LA BUVETTE (Via Vittoria)

Located near the Spanish Step this is one of the few places that still has a loyal local clientele. They add different drinks to their cocktail menu depending on the season.

RISTORANTE PIERLUIGI

This is the only spot that doesn’t have outdoor seating. There’s a small bar inside the restaurant and they make great cocktails. Love the interior design. It’s chic and cozy.

SALOTTO 42

Another one of my favs when I lived in the Centro. I went there a few months ago to meet a friend from Los Angeles and the drinks were still excellent. It can get very crowded so I used to go on the early side.

IL SORPASSO

Speaking of crowded, get here early if you want a table outside. This spot is located in the Prati neighborhood not far from the Vatican museum. Excellent drinks and you can get trapizzino here too.

ZUMA

Located on top of the Fendi palazzo, this terrace has beautiful views and excellent drinks. The sushi restaurant is downstairs.

HOTELS:

Romans/locals don’t go to hotel bars. You see it more in cities like Milan, NYC, Los Angeles, Paris, London, etc., but these places do draw a local crowd too.

A Paloma on Hotel Locarno’s rooftop

Photos: Me and my iPhone

HOTEL DE RUSSIE

The outdoor garden backs into Villa Borghese Park. It’s an oasis in the middle of a busy city. The mini sliders are delicious! It’s pricey but the garden is so special.

HOTEL EDEN

The terrace bar has beautiful views, especially during the sunset. Stefano the bar manager is wonderful. Fantastic cocktails. Pricey too.

HOTEL LOCARNO

This is the hotel I stayed in during my first trip to Rome. At that time there wasn’t a roof terrace. The terrace is great and so is the bar and patio on the ground floor. There’s a working fireplace on the ground floor.

ST. REGIS

This hotel had a major renovation. The bar area is beautiful. A great spot for a cocktail near Termini.

THE HOXTON

This hotel opened last year and is ann excellent addition to the neightborhood. It’s in Parioli close to Villa Borghese Park. Great cocktails list.

HAVEN’T BEEN BUT ON MY LIST

DRINK KONG

Drink Kong was just included on The World’s 50 Best Bars list. It’s not surprising as Patrick Pistolesi is one of the best mixologists/bartenders in town. He used to be the bartender at a place down the street from me when I lived in the Centro. I haven’t made it to Kong yet but my friend Erica Firpo has interviewed him for her podcast Ciao Bella.

W HOTEL

This hotel recently opened near Via Veneto. The W in Los Angeles was one of my spots so I look forward to checking this one out.











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Rome, Food, Roman Restaurants, Italy, Life In Rome Arlene Gibbs Rome, Food, Roman Restaurants, Italy, Life In Rome Arlene Gibbs

Where to Eat in Rome, Italy

Photo: Me and my iPhone

It’s still high season in Rome. The Historic Center is PACKED. I meant to write this post before the summer started but life was bananas (in a good way).

I’m asked all the time where to eat in Rome. Yes, it is possible to have a bad meal here. There are over 13,000 restaurants in Rome! I’m not talking about the kitchen having an off night. That happens everywhere but about the tourist traps. I walk by these places and they’re always crowded. How?

Rome/Lazio cuisine is in my top six following, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, Puglia, Sicily, and Tuscany.  Visitors tell me they want to go where the locals go. However, no matter where you eat in the Historic Center there will be tourists. Here are a few places that locals go to (later at night and if they’re in town). These are places that I’ve been going to for years and/or regularly. You should make reservations, especially for dinner. In no particular order:

  • Cesere al Casaletto.  One of my favorites. It’s way off the beaten path on the edge of Monteverde. You can take the 8 tram until the end of the line, then walk a few meters if you don't want to cab it.  It’s completely on the other side of town for me but I will schlep over there. Until a few years ago, no tourists went there as it's in a nondescript building in a residential area. After several popular American Rome-based food bloggers wrote about it, the restaurant became more popular with tourists.  I like to eat outside despite the busy road near by.  The patio is covered with grape vines in the spring/summer. I was there over the summer with colleagues from Los Angeles. They raved about the food but were shook by the laid back service. If you’re in a hurry, this is not the restaurant to go to.

  • Pierluigi. Known for fish. Ordering off menu (esp. fish) could take your bill to the next level. Great place to go if you want to treat yourself/someone (or you have an expense account). I love sitting outside on the piazza. It’s beautiful. I used to live nearby on Via del Pellegrino and would stop by Pierluigi to meet up with friends just for an aperitivo at the pretty bar. It still has a neighborhood vibe despite the fact that it’s very popular with celebrities and diplomats.

  • In Testaccio there’s Flavio del Velavevodetto. Typical Roman cuisine. Interesting location.  Known for their Amatriciana and Cacio e Pepe.  Have heard mixed things about this place recently but some friends who live nearby still recommend it.  

  • Armando al Pantheon -  Delicious. It's always booked.  It's one of the most popular restaurants in the Centro.  Stanley Tucci featured it and now it's even more difficult to get a table.  Try to book outside. The view! 

  • Salumeria Roscioli -  Located near Campo dei Fiori. The Amatriciana and Carbonara are among the BEST in Rome but service can be hit or miss.  

  • La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - This one I haven’t been to in a while. Last time I was there I had the Cacio e Pepe and it was so good. Big fan of the Saltimbocca too.

  • Bonci Pizza  - pricey but very good.  He has a stand in Centrale Mercato located in Termini train station and the tiny original is called Pizzarium near the Vatican museum.  He opened a Bonci Pizza in the States.  One in Chicago and one in Miami.    

  • Marigold - Located in Otisense, this restaurant is also far from me. It’s close to one of my vendors so I always stop by before or after our meetings. It’s very seasonal and the baked goods are fantastic. Note: at the moment it’s opened for only breakfast and lunch.

  • Ciampini - The one in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. I tend to come here for coffee/breakfast, gelato, and aperitivo but they do have a solid menu. It’s more of a lunch spot vs dinner. Like Armando al Pantheon, it still draws locals in an area surrounded by touristy places. There’s one around the corner as well, near Fendi. I will go to that one in the winter sometimes.

  • Matricianella - Located near Ciampini, this is a great spot for classic Roman food. It’s gets very busy at dinner. There’s usually a wait.

I will post next month about where to have an aperitivo in Rome. That list will be longer. I cook at home, a lot. I don’t go out to eat for dinner that often because my friends here eat so late. Instead we will meet for aperitivo.

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Dream of Italy: Travel, Transform, and Thrive

Buongiorno from Rome!

Things have been quite hectic here even though we're in the middle of summer. I'm staying put this year. I might go away for a long weekend in late August but it depends on what's going on with this Delta variant.

The tourists are back. Not pre-pandemic number of course but what a change from a few months ago. People are so excited to be here. For those who love Italy and/or would like to do some armchair traveling, there's a special Dream of Italy episode currently airing on PBS stations nationwide (USA). It's part of their pledge season, with a notable appearance by actor Joe Mantegna, with host Kathy McCabe.

Kathy and I looking at the gorgeous architecture on Via Monserrato. One of the prettiest streets in Rome.

In this special Kathy interviewed expats/immigrants who have moved to Italy part-time or full-time. She focuses on eleven essential elements of the Italian lifestyle – the land, food, family, art & culture, beauty, pace of life, passion, movement, community, celebrations and sense of home– through our stories.  Kathy discusses how one can incorporate the values, inspiration, and beauty of Italy into their lives. There are also practical tips for people who are interested in moving to Italy for a sabbatical or permanently.

Interview with Kathy at Cantiere Galla Design showroom. I spend a lot of time here for clients.

Some of the people who were interviewed (Sting, Trudie Styler, Francis Mayes, Francis Ford Coppola) are very famous. Some, ahem me, are not. We all have unique stories and experiences of how and why we came to Italy. For more information and to find the airdates for your area click HERE. At the moment it's only airing in the USA and some areas in Canada that receive PBS stations. It should be on available for international viewers in 2022.

Some BTS with friends on the rooftop terrace of Hotel de la Ville.

This special was filmed before the pandemic. I'm thrilled to be a part of this program that speaks to the wonderful things about living in Italy.

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Chatting with Ciao Bella!

I know I'm late to the game but I've just recorded my first podcast interview. I have mentioned my friend Erica Firpo's podcast CIAO BELLA on social media before. It's fantastic and I'm not saying that because she's a close friend.

This description of Ciao Bella sums it up perfectly.

"Italy's 21st-century creators - contemporary artists and artisans, heritage brands and innovative aesthetes, chefs, experts and more who are defining, redefining and evolving Italy.

Fashion. Food. Art. Travel. Design. Innovation. Tradition. And more. Cocktail conversations and behind-the-scenes visits that will make you want to pack your bags and go!"

I'm thrilled to be in the company of other Italy based creatives and to discuss what it is we love (and sometimes don't love so much) about this country.

In this episode we talked about working in Italy, interior design, Reno Italiano, and the beach house project I recently finished in Anguilla, BWI.

Erica and I met at Ciampini Caffe, one of our favourites places in Rome. Of course while we were there, construction started on an apartment above us.

You may also listen on Spotify and iTunes, or read more/listen HERE on Erica's blog post.

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Rome Report – What’s In Season At The Farmers Market?

Buongiorno!

It’s good to be home.  I do miss my family, the beaches, and the warm baguettes, of course but three months is a long time to be away.  

One thing I love most about living in Italy is grocery shopping.  Yes, that’s correct.  When I lived in Los Angeles, I had business lunches and dinners almost every weekday (and some weekends).   When I did cook, I would think about what I wanted to make and then go to the Gelson’s in my neighborhood or to Bristol Farms and buy what I needed. 

I was a big fan of the Santa Monica Farmers’ market and maybe one or two Saturdays a month I would hop on The 10 and pay $30 for three green peppers.  The produce was outstanding but very expensive. The market was open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. 

When I moved to Rome and found the Trionfale Market I couldn’t get over the quality of the ingredients (Santa Monica level) and how reasonably priced it was.  One third to half of what I was paying in Campo dei Fiori’s market.  I do have excellent supermarkets in my neighborhood but I buy all my produce and occasionally meat and fish at the market.  My meat consumption plummeted once I move to Italy.  I eat more grains and vegetables now, it’s easier here.  I don’t miss the meat and when I do buy it, I know where it’s coming from.  Meat is definitely more expensive here than in the States.  It’s a once a week thing or maybe once every other week.  

I had to completely rethink how I cook and shop for food after I moved here.  One day I wanted to make a broccoli frittata.  I cannot tell you why I was fixated on that dish that weekend but I wrote out my little list and off to the market I went.

I got to Trionfale and there was no broccoli to be found.  It wasn’t in season.  I was thrown!  One vendor told me I could probably buy some at a supermarket but he warned me that it wouldn’t taste that great.  Now, I have a better sense of what’s in season.  I do cook “international” foods as well but even then; I try to keep it seasonal.   I know my palate has changed since I've moved to Rome.  For example, I used to eat tomatoes all the time that had no flavor.  I spent my formative years in New Jersey. I know good tomatoes.  My dad used to grow them in our vegetable garden yet, there I was buying tomatoes that tasted like cardboard.  Never again! Even the out of season supermarket tomatoes here tastes better. 

I’ve been gone a while so I was very curious to see what currently was in season.  I went to the Mercato Flamino II. 

Look at these beauties! 

Puntarelle found only during the winter. The salad, made with garlic and anchovies, is very Roman (and very good).

This neighborhood is east of mine.  It’s a bit of a walk but not as far as Trionfale.  I usually go to Trionfale if I need to see my butcher.  There’s a great butcher closer to me but we call them Diamonds.  

These markets are open six days a week Monday – Saturday.  There are two small ones very close to my house or I can go to the bigger ones in Trieste, Prati, or near Termini. 

The market by Circo Massimo (open on weekends) is outstanding.  That market is local.  Farmers and food from this region only.  

Buon weekend a tutti!

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Work in Progress - Anguilla, BWI

We’re almost done! 

I'm getting ready to take the ferry back to St. Martin for a few days and then I'm going home. I do miss pain in the butt (sometimes) Rome but thrilled/relieved I was able to finally make it to the job site in Anguilla.

Building a new beach house on a small island when you live thousands of miles of away isn’t easy.  Trying to finish said beach house during a global pandemic is:

My sister-in-law and I spent an entire week unpacking boxes from the Miami container.  Our fourteen-day quarantine wasn’t too bad thanks to the Bubble System here in Anguilla. 

Several potential guests have asked if there’s a pool.  Not at the moment but the goal is to build one soon.  In the meantime, there’s a fantastic beach for swimming.  This isn't photoshopped. The water on Meads Bay is really this color during the midday. The sunsets are gorgeous as well.

Buon weekend a tutti!

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The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *

Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.

This view.

Livia getting her Prosecco on.

Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met.  Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude.  Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth.   She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer.   Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.  

The lunch Violante prepared was delicious.  The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous.  I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.

Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.

Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.

Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.

As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.

Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.

Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.

We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.

We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.

Caffe realness.

It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.

The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.

Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.

Plate designed by Violante.

Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.

Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.

BANANAS!

Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events.  For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.

*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.

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Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.

I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan.  I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.

Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.

It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me.  However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.

My friend Marta and I met for brunch.  Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10.  It’s a good thing we did.  The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m.  The space is lovely.  It’s minimalist/modern yet warm.  The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful.  The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.

We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.

I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.

IMG_1823.jpeg

Closed on Mondays.

Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679

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Marcello Mastroianni Exhibit at the Museo dell'Ara Pacis

Happy New(ish) Year!

I’ve read it’s okay to say this until the end of the month.  I made it just under the wire.  I cannot believe February 1st is next week.

I’ve been meaning to check out the new exhibit at the Ara Pacis since the day it opened.  It closes February 17th.  If you live in Rome or are planning to visit, I recommend seeing it.

I loved learning more about Mastroianni’s childhood and family.  I knew he was a stage actor for years before becoming a film star but had not seen many photos from that era.   I didn’t know producer Dino de Laurentiis (grandfather of Giada) wanted Paul Newman for the lead in “La Dolce Vita”.  Fellini said no.  I’m trying to picture how different the film would’ve been.

Mastroianni was very handsome and had charisma for days but didn’t want to be seen as the cliché “Latin Lover”.  In many films he upended the stereotype, playing anti-heroes who didn’t know how to deal with shifting gender roles, political/economic instability, and changing social mores.

Along with set photographs, one sheets, and short clips from several films, there were also a few costumes from his movies, including an iconic dress worn by Sophia Loren.

The exhibit is well organized, translated (English), and curated.  If you love movies, the arts, Italian history, it’s a must.

Photos:Museo dell'Ara Pacis

Museo dell'Ara Pacis

Lungotevere in Augusta - 00186 Roma

Opening hours

Open daily, from 9.30 to 19.30

Last admission 1 hour before closing time

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Italian Chic - by Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla

I have written about Franco - Italian Chez Dédé before.  I heard about this incredibly talented and creative couple, Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla, from the late great Wonderfool.  My friend Courtney and I met the lovely Daria at the store/spa and wanted to buy all their bags.

Daria and Andrea are quite modest.  I didn't learn until this year (!) that they are the ones responsible for the typography of Pasta Garofalo, one of my favorite pasta brands.  Okay, now that I think about it, this isn't a topic that would come up in everyday conversation.

There was some skepticism when they first opened their store.  Why Rome? Why not Florence or Milan?  An atelier/boutique/gallery like Chez Dédé would make more sense in those cities. There has been a great deal of  negative press  (local and international) about the state of Rome these days. Yes, the situation could be better and it's important not to ignore what is happening but walking into their shop is a much needed reminder of the reasons why we fell in love this city and country in the first place.

Their book  ITALIAN CHIC is a must for anyone who loves Italy, photography, illustrations, or/and travel.  It's not a guide book per se but more of a coffee table book filled with beautiful imagery.  It was just published by Assouline and is available at their shops or online.  The Chez Dédé store has a few limited edition copies left with a special cover featuring my beloved Sicily.

 Photographed by Daria and illustrated by Andrea, ITALIAN CHIC is an intimate peek at some of their favorite places in Italy, from top to bottom.  It's a love letter of sorts to a country that has inspired them.  As Daria and Andrea said to Architectural Digest, “If we were not in Italy, then Chez Dédé simply would not exist,” Reina says. “We are both in love with Italy and the Italian lifestyle is certainly an integral part of our entire creative process.” Ferolla adds, “Italy cultivates the excellence of the ‘well done’ and of the simple and sophisticated style. Daria and I are heirs of this culture that reflects in each and every expression of Chez Dédé’s creative thinking.”

Daria and Andrea will be in New York City the week of October 14th for book signings.  There will be an installation of Andrea's illustrations in one of Bergdorf Goodman's famous windows.  Check their Instagram feed for more information (and because it's fantastic).

Photos (except for the cover): Assouline

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Palazzo Merulana, Rome

I noticed this large abandoned palazzo when I first moved to Rome.  I wondered what the history of the building was and why it was falling apart.I found out that it was a city owned property built in 1929.  It used to be the headquarters for the Health Administration.  Once those offices moved, the building fell into disrepair with some sections abandoned for over sixty years.Palazzo Merulana reopened last month and it's a beauty.  Stunning.The renovations took only three years and was a private-public partnership.  The space now holds the important collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi.  The couple focused on works created in the early 20th century, with the majority between WW 1 and WW 2.  The Cerasi family owns a prominent construction company that has worked on projects such as the MAXXI Museum and other public and private works.The Cerasi Foundation would like to see the Palazzo become an important space for visual art, cinema, music, and theatre.  They're working closely with several local cultural orgnaizaions.  This is quite a gift to the city.A ticket to see the exhibit is four euros.  There's a small, charming cafe on the ground and outdoor seating on the patio.  The terrace is schedule to open in mid-July and the top floor is reserved for cultural events. IMG_8820.jpg  IMG_8815.jpg  Here is a short clip about the museum.https://youtu.be/SHw3vc-5fq0 The museum's in a very accessible location. It's about a ten minute walk from the Colosseum with easy access to the Metro and the Tram.121 Via Merulana, 00185, Rome    

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Ten Years Ago I Moved to Rome, Italy

The two things people ask me all the time when they've learn how long I've lived here are, if I have any regrets or when am I moving back to America.If this were a sabbatical, I would've moved back by now and more importantly, I wouldn't have gone through the hell that is getting a driver's license in Europe (I hear Germany's is beyond difficult).Regarding regrets, I have none.  Even during my worst days in Italy, I never got homesick.  Of course I miss my family and friends.  I do miss the efficiency of America and I know it would be easier to be a business owner and writer there.  Rome's going through a horrible downturn but that makes me want to move out of Rome, not the country.As of today I have lived in Rome longer than any other city (after college).  I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and moved there from New York City.  If I had moved directly to Rome from NYC maybe things would've felt differently.  When I arrived in Rome, I was a very bitter and broken person.  Hollywood had worn me down.  I was numb, which is not a good trait for anyone who works in a creative field.My first trip to Italy was in 2005.  I wasn't an Italophile.  I just wanted to travel to a new place, see some art, eat some good food.  In junior high school and high school I knew I would live overseas one day.  Italy was not on my list.  That first trip to Rome surprised me and changed my life in so many ways.  It felt like home but I wasn't planning on moving anywhere until retirement.  My Hollywood friends were skeptical.  They said had I traveled to Iowa, I would've had the same reaction.  So I returned the following year after getting a new job.  Nope, that first visit wasn't a fluke.positano5:06.jpgDuring the fall of 2007 I was working on a movie in Toronto.  I was one of the executive producers and was on location for almost three months. I was so happy despite the six day shoot, very long hours, and night shoots (killer).  As the wrap date approached, I was speaking with my dad. My parents had moved back to St. Martin, after retirement, a few years earlier.  He could hear the anxiety in my voice. My dad asked me why I was going back to Los Angeles.  I told him I had wonderful bosses.  He thought that was great but why wasn't I moving to Italy now?  What was I waiting for?  I wasn't living in Los Angeles, just existing.  New days are not guaranteed to us.I was shook.  My fellow first generation Americans will feel me when I say my parents were NOT go follow your bliss kind of folks.  They were grounded, intense Caribbean people.  I'm pretty sure my mom blames the fact that I'm not married on my lack of an advanced degree (ha).  My parents were very hard on us growing up and had high expectations.  So for my dad to say go to Italy, that was earth shattering to me. I mean, what would I do in Italy?  It's not as if I had an engineering degree and could go work for a Fortune 500 company.Three years to the month of my first visit, I said good-bye to everything I knew and moved to a foreign country.  Looking back, it was a completely bonkers move.IMG_0824.jpgIMG_0843.jpgIMG_0848.jpgIt's been tough at times living here and last year, in particular, was difficult on a micro and macro level. I'm not the only person who was glad to say hello to 2018.  2017 was probably one of the most stressful years of my adult life.  I got through it (with help from my family and friends) and this year is shaping up to be much better.It may sound melodramatic to say moving to Italy saved me.  Moving here pushed me out of my comfort zone and made me wake up.  I'm no longer a spectator in my life. I'm aware of time passing and how little of it we have.  When you walk past buildings that are over a thousand years old, it put things in perspective.  Moving to Italy forced me to stop running, look at the bigger picture, and figure out exactly why I was working in Hollywood.  My post-Jumping the Broom disappointments (not with the movie) turned out to be the best thing that every happened to me. I didn't see it at the time.  I wouldn't have interned for an interior designer, started my own company, and worked/be working on incredible design/decorating projects had things gone differently.  It's through my work in design that I was able to reconnect with my love of storytelling, my creativity, and my passions.I never stopped screenwriting but kept my scripts to myself.  One of my mentors/friends, a senior Hollywood film agent, was in town with his wife over the Christmas holidays. He asked me what I was working on. He has always encouraged me to do both, to write and to decorate.  I felt strongly I had to pick a lane. He disagreed. Many creative people are multi-faciated.  During a yoga retreat last fall, I realized that I was still trying to follow a linear career path and not being open to all possibilities. I was still holding on to some bitterness regarding my Hollywood career that I truly needed to let go.  How could I work smarter, not just harder?  Who gets to decide what success looks like?  I must continue to focus on the craft of screenwriting (and improving) not the things I have no control over.The first project I sold as a screenwriter was a teen movie to an Italian film company within a few months of moving here.  However, the majority of my time was spent in my apartment alone writing/working in English with people back in Los Angeles.  I was in a giant expat bubble.  Four years ago when I opened my company, I started working in Italy and in Italian.  I jumped into the deep end of the pool. I couldn't have a situation where expensive custom furniture and/or draperies were made incorrectly because my upholsterer misunderstood my janky Italian.  I had to step it up.  My get by Italian was fine for a casual conversation not business.The last time I was in Los Angeles I was there for Hollywood meetings and for a interior design project. I was having dinner with a friend before my flight back to Rome. I said that Los Angeles wasn't so bad and that I was looking forward to my next trip.  She wondered if I had fallen and hit my head on the pavement.  I was serious.  I saw another side to the city running around Los Angeles with my client to different showrooms.  L.A. traffic is still atrocious though.I have acquired some patience since moving to Rome, a big improvement.  I cook more, eat well (said goodbye to no-carb/all diets), and my cost of living is much lower.  I'm healthier, more physically active, and learning new things all the time.  I'm fortunate to have incredible friends here who are like family.During my first month in Italy made a comment that I get chills when I see the Pantheon.  Someone replied it was only because everything was new to me.  I know that's not true.  Ten years on I still get chills when I walk past the Pantheon.  I don't take that for granted.IMG_2337.jpgIMG_1365.jpgIMG_1029.jpg IMG_0956.jpgIMG_1626.jpgIMG_2166.jpgIMG_5643.jpg     

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Life in Rome - Mini-break at Le Méridien Visconti Hotel

One of my friends, who owns a boutique travel agency in Italy, told me that finding four star hotels in Rome is difficult.  She said there are great options at the five-star high-end level and at the economical end but there are too many four-stars that are really a three- star at best.Enter Le Méridien.  The Starwood Group recently added the Visconti Hotel to its portfolio.  The hotel officially reopened this June after a twenty million dollar renovation.I had the opportunity to stay at the hotel for two nights.  Before my stay I read reviews online because I'm anal.  The reviews were very good except for two things, the air conditioning and the WiFi.Given my stay was happening during one of the worst heatwaves in history and I had several work deadlines, I was concerned.They must have fixed these issues as I'm happy to report I had no problems.  In fact the A/C was so strong I had to turn it off.  My fellow Americans, you know that NEVER happens in Italy.The hotel is located in Prati.  It's a few minutes walk from Piazza Cavour and in the other direction (a slightly longer walk), Piazza del Popolo.  I think it's a perfect location.  You're near the Historic Center but not smack in the middle of it and the prices reflect this.  The area is centrally located as Piazza Cavour is a major bus hub.   For those who like to walk, you can cross the river and be in the heart of the Historic Center in ten minutes.The roof terrace is fantastic.  Sometimes there are annoying loud seagulls who like to wait for people to leave and then dive in for the food. The waiters are on top of  it though.  Seagulls 0.IMG_5526.jpgIMG_4855.jpgIMG_4011.jpgService was great.  Granted some of the employees at the hotel have seen me a few times but that wasn't the case with the check-in.  I thought they were friendly.  There was a small line when I arrived but it moved quickly.Location, price, design, of course all these things matter but when I stay in a hotel there are two things that are extremely important to me.  Cleanliness. I cannot stand clutter and dirty bathrooms or kitchens freak me out.  I don't want to step into a hotel bathroom and see hair in the drain.  Just typing that made me feel queasy.  The other thing is the bed.  It must be comfortable.My room was spotless and the bed was excellent.  The toiletries are Malin & Goetz.  I was so geeked out to see them because no retailer in Rome sells these products.  I checked the website and there is a store in Milan that carries them.  I muust remember this important information for my next trip.IMG_5217.jpgIMG_5213.jpgIMG_5214.jpgIMG_5211.jpgThe interior design has mid-century touches that also speak to the hotel's location in the Eternal City.  The head designer was Harry Gregory of the firm, ara Design International. They wanted to create something timeless.I adore the pared down use of marble, a material synonymous with Italy and Rome.  I think too much marble can make an interior feel cold.  At the Le Méridien it's warm and dramatic.The neutrals of grey, black, and white, with splashes of color, are relaxing and chic.  The Longitude 12 Bar and Bistrot is a great place for a coffee during the day and for cocktails at night.  The Bistrot also has a delicious lunch and dinner menu and starts serving wine  around noon.In the Bistrot there's a communal table that has outlets for your laptop and phone adapters.IMG_2660.jpgIMG_5612.jpgIMG_5278.jpgIMG_5280 (1).jpgDownstairs, there was a wide selection for breakfast, including American bacon.  I repeat, there was American bacon.IMG_5306.jpgThe hotel has an eclectic art collection, from abstract to figurative pieces, created with different materials.  These artworks are from the private collection of the Toti family.  Their collection focuses on Italian artists from the 1980s.  When people think of Rome they often focus on classical art.  It's wonderful to see some contemporaries pieces as well.IMG_5223.jpgIMG_5235.jpgIMG_5264.jpgThe gym is small but well-equipped with Technogym equipment. Did you know Technogym was an Italian company?  I saw this brand in high-end gyms in New York City and Los Angeles and had no idea until I moved to Italy.  Mind blown.I stayed at the hotel in early August but have been stopping by since April.  This is not official market research but it seems to me that the hotel is very popular with couples, families, business travelers, and friends traveling together.  I didn't see too many solo vacation travelers but I've always felt welcomed thanks to the friendly service.Photos:  Me and my iPhone. Disclaimer:  I was a guest of the hotel.  However, opinions and thoughts are my own.   

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Life in Rome - Centrale Montemartini Museum, an Ancient and Modern Mix

This museum is not in the Historic Center but located in the dynamic and funky Ostiense neighborhood.  It has been on my list for years and I finally visited it recently with my friend, Marta. We loved it.I saw a spread in American Vogue that had used the museum as a backdrop, so I thought I had an idea of what to expect.I was wrong. The museum is located inside a former power plant that was built in 1912.   The plant closed during the early '60s.  In 1997 the city used the abandoned space to temporarily house works from the Capitoline Museums, which were under renovation.  Thankfully, the Cultural Minister had the idea to permanently convert the structure into a museum.  Many of the pieces in the museum were excavated during the late 1900's and the 1930's.I found out after we left that I have personal connected to the museum. The Vignacce Marsyas piece was excavated during a 2009 dig in Villa delle Vignacce directed by my friend, Dr. Darius Arya. It's believed to have been the work of artisans from the early 2nd century.  Thanks for the scoop, Erica!The space alone is worth a trip and the artwork inside is very interesting as well. I think this museum would appeal to young children too, especially if they’re into big machines.The museum was practically empty the afternoon we were there.   We saw two artists sketching the mosaic floors and there was a small film crew setting up a shoot as we left. That’s it. Rome residents get a discounted ticket, so bring your I.D.It’s close to the one of the best pasty shops in Rome, Andreotti, and not far from a large EATALY. There’s excellent street art in the area. If you’re looking for something off the beaten path, this is museum is perfect. I've read some reviews from tourists who say the area is "sketchy."   Perhaps this is the reason the museum is underrated?  It's a shame as I think it's a good idea to get away from the crowds sometimes.IMG_4385.jpgIMG_4388.jpgIMG_4432.jpgIMG_4433.jpgIMG_4401.jpgIMG_4391.jpgIMG_4424.jpgIMG_4422.jpgIMG_4400.jpgIMG_4418.jpgIMG_4410.jpgIMG_4426.jpgIMG_4427.jpgIMG_4404.jpgIMG_4387.jpgVia Ostiense 106Tel. +39 06 39967800Website www.centralemontemartini.orgOpen Tuesday to Sunday 9:00-19:00. Closed Mondays and some public holidays.Cash only.

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Life in Rome - Ercoli 1928 Parioli

I have lived in Parioli for a year now and love it.  When I told people I was moving from the Historic Center to Parioli, everyone had an opinion (mostly negative)."It's so boring," was one of the main criticisms I heard regarding Parioli.  Granted, it's not as exciting as living around the corner from the Drunken Ship but that's okay.There are plenty of great places in this neighborhood to get your aperitivi on and the prices are much lower than the Center. That said, it is a more residential area.  There are rarely any tourists and while there are quite a few American and British expats living in Parioli, I seem to bump into them only at the DOC or Carrefour supermarkets.The latest addition to the 'hood is Ercoli 1928 Parioli and I am here for it.  I met a friend for an aperitivo during the holidays. The first person I saw when we walked in was Federico Tomasselli, the bar manager and one of the best bartenders in Rome. What a very pleasant surprise!  He used to be at Barnum on Via del Pellegrino.  I lived on Pellegrino and spent a lot of time at Barnum because of Federico and Patrick (Patrick is now at Caffe Propaganda).My friend and I sat at the bar and loved it.  The bar's specialty is Vermouth. My friend said their drink was outstanding.  If you don't drink Vermouth, no worries.  Ercoli's wine list is deep and they have a solid cocktails list too.I returned with another friend the other week and this time we sat in the front because the bar was still setting up.We ordered glasses of wine and the Italian cheese plate.  Outstanding.The service was great and everyone was friendly.  Trust me, this is not the norm in Rome where service can range from indifference to outright hostility.  Ha.My friend picked up some takeout for her husband.  I need to ask her how the meatballs were. The cheese selection is fantastic and will be problematic.  I haven't eaten lunch or dinner here yet but have heard very positive reviews about chef Andrea di Raimo's dishes.IMG_0646.jpgcella formaggi.jpgIMG_0727.jpgThere are people don't care how a place looks as long as the drinks are great.  I'm not one of those people.  For food, it's a different story.  There are wonderful restaurants that don't have much of a décor but it's okay because the food is on point.  However, when it come to aperitivi/cocktails, atmosphere is also very important to me.IMG_0709.jpgErcoli Parioli knocks it out of the park.  The space is divided into three areas.  There's a restaurant, a deli, and the bar/cantina.The architect is Roberto Liorni, who's responsible for several of my favorite restaurant spaces including, Pastificio San Lorenzo a Roma, Rosti, and 'Gusto. The latter opened in 1998 and other restaurants are still "referencing" it.  Liorni was also the architect for the film company Cattleya's headquarters.  All these places have their own vibe but with his unmistakable DNA, contemporary, chic, yet comfortable.I adore the interior design at Ercoli.  It's not trying to be the Roman version of a space in Soho or on Abbot Kinney.  It fits the neighborhood and doesn't look like every single restaurant that has opened recently.  I love the plaid...an unexpected touch.DSC08385.jpgDSC08441.jpgIMG_0715.jpgIMG_0725.jpgIMG_0739.jpg12_IMG_4384.jpgDSC08357.jpgDSC08482.jpgDSC08137.jpgI finished the cheese I bought.  I'm trying to avoid Ercoli this week. I don't think I will be successful.

Ercoli 1928 Parioli
Viale dei Parioli, 184
00197 Roma
+39 06 8080084
Other photos taken by me and my iPhone.

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Life in Rome - The Artemisia Gentileschi Exhibit

Buon Anno!Man, am I happy to see 2017.  I'm really looking forward to this year, despite all the craziness in the world. I have no control over these many complicated political and social issues but I can control how I react to them.There's a lot of ugliness and hatred in this world.  I'm going to focus on the beauty and love.  I know that sounds very Pollyanna.  However, I strongly believe that those of us who work in creative fields and/or appreciate creative endeavors need to push back. Dostoyevsky wrote, "Beauty will save the world."  I agree.If you're in Rome or plan to visit before May 7th, I highly recommend the  “Artemisia Gentileschi and Her Time,” exhibit at the Museum of Rome in Palazzo Braschi. It's outstanding.Much has been written about the struggles of Gentileschi (1593-1653). This exhibit doesn't downplay them but focuses on her art and how the times influenced it. There are over one hundred paintings.  Most are by Gentileschi with a few from her contemporaries.Gentileschi was the daughter of the painter Orazio and was heavily influenced by Caravaggio.  She was the first woman to be admitted to the prestigious Accademia del Arte di Disegno in Florence.The population in Rome was two-thirds male when Gentileschi was growing up.  It was very dangerous for a woman to be even be outside.  Her mother died when she was twelve and she was raped by the painter her father hired to tutor her when she was seventeen. Her father had to hire a tutor because at the time women were denied access to the art academies.  During the humiliating trial, Gentileschi was tortured and her family's reputation questioned.  Her accuser (who had raped his wife, his sister-in-law, and tried to steal paintings from Orazio) was sentenced to a year in jail.  His verdict was annulled.Gentileschi rejected the stereotypical female roles of the Early Baroque era and painted women who were powerful, mythical.The exhibit is categorized by city.  You can see the influence living in Rome, Florence, Venice, London, and Naples (where she died, perhaps from the Plague) had on Gentileschi's work.  After her death, Gentileschi's work was often attributed to her father or other artists.The exhibit is well organized (I know. Shocking).  There are informative introductions (in Italian and English) to each period of her work.I saw her most famous work, Judith Slaying Holofernes, at the Ufizzi when I visited Florence a few years before I moved to Italy. She painted two versions and the other one is in Naples at Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte.   artesmisia-gentileschi-judith-slaying-holofernes-1614-20There many paintings of this biblical story (including one by Caravaggio himself). It's fascinating to compare her interpretation to that of her male peers.I don't know if it was the setting (a smaller room, less chaotic that the Ufizzi), post USA election stress, or what, but this time the painting unnerved me.  I didn't want to look at it but I couldn't turn away.  There was a woman next to me tearing up.  It's truly a powerful, visceral, beautiful, work of art. My god the colors. The physicality. Gentileschi painted herself as Judith and her accuser as Holofernes. I didn't know the details of her trial then but even those who have no knowledge of Gentileschi's backstory, can see and feel the unadulterated rage.Moving on from that uplifting note, Palazzo Braschi is a striking venue located in Piazza Navona.  During the weekends there was quite a line.  It might be less crowded now that the exhibit has been running for a few weeks. Museum of Rome, Palazzo BraschiUntil May 7th, 2017Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 7pm  Save

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Guest Post - Studying Abroad in Rome

Ciao Bloggisti,This is the last post from our intern, Ariella.  I asked her to write about her overall experience studying in Rome.  It was a pleasure to work with Ariella and we wish her the best as she continues her studies at Cornell University.I have spent the last four and a half months exploring Rome. I've immersed myself in a new culture, started to learn a new language, admired the art and architecture of this amazing city that continues to create history, and meandered through its confusing yet welcoming streets.The illusions and expectations of studying and living abroad in Rome were surpassed by the realities of my temporary new home. The only real challenge seemed to be the difference in the food markets, which I quickly understood. How fun and interesting to be able to select and purchase food that looked real and smelled as it should. The shadows of dust and dirt reminded me of where the food actually came from, as opposed to very manicured and polished plastic packages of foods that all looked the same and had no aroma.Stopping at every cafe along the way as I discovered my neighborhood and others I explored, I found my comfort zone. While homesick for family and friends for a short first week, I'm now faced with the fear of returning as I know I will long for the place I will be leaving behind. I suppose it's good to leave with the feeling of wanting to return as my mission feels unfinished. I fantasize about returning for an extended period of time and can even imagine living here in the future.Rome has surpassed my expectations and has given me much to think about. I have enjoyed the people, the culture and lifestyle, and the way one moves through this city. It has been so interesting to see how such an old city with all its monuments and history has been able to have continuity despite the politics and introduction of globalization. This is evident by all the current problems of immigration, unemployment, housing, circulation etc. It's obvious that to preserve and yet become a place where the locals and visitors can enjoy this eternal city, introducing and maintaining infrastructure in the existing urban fabric has been quite a challenge.It has been a privilege to live and learn in this setting with Rome’s varied colors as they age and as the sun rises and sets through the changing seasons, giving us different perspectives of an everlasting place.IMG_3593.jpg 

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Before & After - Via Banchi Vecchi Project

Ciao Bloggisti,Earlier I wrote about the Via Monserrato project.  One of the other apartments we worked on was located two blocks away on Via Banchi Vecchi.  It was a new apartment for our client.The apartment was empty so we didn't have the same logistical issues but two bathrooms, and the kitchen had to be renovated.   Any time you start opening walls you will have some surprises, especially in a building that's over three hundred years old.The brief from the client stated that the unique original flooring and the red tiles in the kitchen could not be replaced.  The floors weren't in great shape but I like to think of them as adding character.  The client wanted to improve the layout, add a closet in the bedroom, lighten up the very dark kitchen, and make the second bathroom more functional.The bulk of the budget went to the renovation.  Some of the furniture came from the other apartments.  We bought a mix of high-end hardware/fixtures along with budget friendly pieces.The minute the client stated that they had to change the layout, we called an architect.  Fortunately, Domenico Minchilli and his studio took on the project. Square footage wise it was a lot smaller than their usual projects but it was complicated.  We had worked together before which made the renovation process, never easy, smoother.BEFORE - The KitchenIMG_1462.jpgTrue, this is not a primary residence but I don't think any guest would want to spend a lot of time in here.  It was impossible to get a decent shot of this dark, cramped space. The hallway before. The kitchen is behind the wall on the right.IMG_1464.jpg There were structural issues that had to be addressed (electrical, ventilation) so a upgrade/renovation had to happen.IMG_1648.jpgOriginally, we discussed opening just one of the walls.  Studio Minchilli suggested removing all them so you could see the entire arch as you walked into the apartment.AFTERktichenaf1.jpgWhat a difference.  It's light and there's plenty of space to move around. The cabinets are from IKEA but the counter top is quartz from Stone Italiana.   We decided to spend more for a higher quality counter top given the open plan design.  It elevates the entire space, making the IKEA cabinets look more expensive.My anxiety level was not good the morning of this installation. A heavy slab, cut to order.  Three men had to carry it. IMG_4692.jpg The light fixture is custom.  Il Paralume.kitchenaf2.jpg We also installed LED lights on the right.kitchen4wide.jpg BEFORE - Master BathroomIMG_1454.jpgThere were dated, inexpensive white tiles on the floor. AFTERshowerbed1.jpgThe tub was replaced with a shower. bathroom1.jpgWe decided to go with a combination bidet and toilet, which is great for small spaces.  The client wanted a unique sink.  We ordered these (which were quite heavy, our poor contractor) and asked our blacksmith to build the bases.Notice, we didn't put tiles on the walls.  Similar to the Tuscany Project, we wanted the bathrooms to feel more like a room and less clinical.  For a busy family bathroom this option could be impractical but I really like how these rooms feel without tiled walls.The design of the new tiles mimics the original tiled floors in the rest of the apartment.  While these colors look great together, installing three colors is a different story. Complicated.IMG_3977.jpgThe tiles, sink, and all hardware were purchased at LOZZI.The sconces are custom. Il Paralume.Paint is a custom color from Crown.In the bedroom we added a pocket door, a built-in closet, and the lampshades are custom from Il Paralume.bedroomwide.jpg Our carpenter also created a desk in the corner.bedesk.jpg BEFORE - Second bathroom.Extremely tight space, dated tiles.  The layout was terrible and the room very dark.IMG_1467.jpg AFTERWe completely changed the layout. We moved the entrance which enabled us to add space for a proper shower.The door is custom made by our carpenter.  Door fixtures are from Handles.showerbr2.jpg Here's a better shot of the sink with the custom iron base.  As with the other bathroom, we bought a combination bidet and toilet.sinkbr2.jpg BEFORE - Living Roomlrbefore.jpg AFTER - Living RoomLRafter1.jpgThe fantastic artwork is from Due Alberi.  They're based in Rome but ship internationally.Our carpenter added new closets.The dining table is from MADE and the chairs belong to the client.LR2art.jpg The side table came from the Via Monserrato apartment.  We found the lamp at Leroy Merlin (the French version of Home Depot).Lr4table.jpg The client found the credenza online.  The lamps were a great find at Leroy Merlin.  We were so tired and hungry. My client was worried about my mental health as we had just spent hours at the IKEA next door.  I perked up when I saw the lamps on a bottom shelf.  I was so excited.  It was like meeting Idris Elba.lr3lamps.jpg Overall, the apartment feels lighter despite the lack of light (the windows are tiny).  The renovated kitchen and bathrooms compliment the style and architecture of the apartment.  We updated them but without losing the charm.We kept the palette very simple, creamy whites, grey, black, with a touch of red.  The ceiling seems higher and apartment looks/feels bigger.For more information about this vacation rental, please check out Your Suite Rome on Booking.com.Architect: Domenico MinchilliAfter Photos: Vincenzo TambascoSave

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