The Cottage, Meads Bay Beach, Anguilla BWI - Reveal
Building and designing a new beach house on a tiny island is not the easiest of jobs.
This was a personal project and I was working with several people who all have different tastes. I wanted to incorporate everyone's ideas yet make sure the space was cohesive.
This is a cottage so nothing too fancy or formal. A cottage is more traditional. That's why we have spindles and rails on the veranda and not glass. I wanted it to be comfortable. It's Relaxed Chic. It's the vacation home of your favorite aunt and uncle who like to have a cocktail, or two, as they watch the sun set from their veranda.
The logistics! The one two punch of the strongest hurricane to ever hit the Atlantic and then two years later the first global pandemic in one hundred years didn't help. However, thanks to a very dedicated and hard working team, we did it! The Cottage is finished.
Here are two before photos:
Standing in front of what was going to be the kitchen island looking out at the sea view.
After: The sea view from behind said island. The house was designed to take advantage of the spectacular views. There was a big debate about the ceilings. Yes they are very high (over 19 ft) and the wood was beautiful but I thought staining them a dark color would be a mistake. The only natural light is coming from the bi-fold veranda doors and way on the other end, the windows in the kitchen.
We painted the walls and ceiling a softer white than the external color The color running through the house is blue with touches of yellow, and a coral red.
The countertops are poured concrete. The counter stools are from Serena and Lily. The handmade made bowl is Schoolhouse and the pomegranates came from our contractor's mom's backyard.
Almost everything has to be imported due to the island's size. I had a local carpenter make quite a few pieces. I was asked why not buy the bedside tables, in the Main Bedroom, in the States as it would be easier and probably cheaper. I did it because we already had a full container coming from America and it's important no matter where you build/renovate to support local businesses and artisans when possible.
I cannot stand it when you're unable to get a sense of place in a house. I'm a huge fan of the big American stores I sourced from but it's a good thing, especially for a new build, to mix it up. I don't like spaces that feel like a showroom. I also sourced from smaller vendors and to the trade.
The Caribbean is mix of cultures and that's reflexed in The Cottage. I side-eye the fact that one culture is usually missing despite the majority of the people who live in the Caribbean being from that culture.
The dining table was sourced at the French store La Maison in St Martin. The chairs, Amazon USA. A local upholster made the seat cushions. The fabric is from Ghana and was bought at the African Market store in St. Maarten (Dutch side). The vase is Crate & Barrel.
The view looking in from the veranda. Ceiling fans are Minka Aire. Sofa is from La Péninusle in St. Martin. Coffee table is Serena and Lily. Arm chairs IKEA. Custom seat cushions outdoor/indoor fabric Sunbrella from Showroom Tapissier in St. Martin. Side table from Home Kara in St. Martin.
I designed the custom bookcase/desk with our carpenter.
This is the view looking out from the veranda.
The kitchen. The cabinet doors were custom made by our carpenter. The pendants lights had to be a special order from Schoolhouse because of the height. Sconces and hardware are Schoolhouse as well. I decided not to do upper cabinets. This may not be practical for a primary residence but for a vacation house it makes sense. It's easier to find everything. I feel upper cabinets would look odd with these type of ceilings. They would cut the space in half.
Glassware, tableware, and small appliances are from Crate & Barrel. The larger appliances including the wine refrigerator (it's in the island), integrated dishwasher, and mircowave are GE and were bought through Sheila Haskins who is the authorised GE vendor on island.
When it came to the countertops, I knew from the very beginning they would be concrete. I like that they were made by hand and the material is perfect for this beach house style. The floors are coral stone tile from the Dominican Republic. Backsplash is Granada Tile also handcrafted.
I wanted this to be a comfortable house where people could relax and enjoy themselves. The tray is from Serena and Lily. The art work was commissioned from a young Anguillian artist, Carmel Gumbs. It's a black and white oil of Shoal Bay. B&W was a risk but with the incredible views why compete? It's different. The clients love it. Vase is Crate & Barrel. The morning of the shoot I cut some branches from our sea grape tree.
The main bedroom as the sun starts to set. The bed is Crate and Barrel. The basket is Vendredi in St. Martin. The lamps are from One Kings Lane, and the bed side tables are custom. The sheets in all the bedrooms are Boll & Branch.
Another angle of the bedroom. That view! So glad we went with these type of doors. Great for indoor/outdoor living.
The en-suite bathroom. Sconces are from Shades of Light.
I designed the custom vanities with our carpenter and contractor. We stained the wood instead of painted it. I like having some wood in the bathrooms. Warms things up a bit.
In the original plans there was another closet where the tub currently is. Where the shower is now was supposed to be the tub AND the shower. I did a walk through once the internal walls were up. I suggested we get rid of the closet and place the tub there. It's a vacation house. It's not necessary to have two large closets. I think most people would rather have a roomy shower.
Sigh. That shower.
This bedroom also has a sea views and a king size bed. Bed is from Serena and Lily. Lamps One Kings Lane. Bedside tables from La Péninsule in St. Martin. Dresser is from Crate & Barrel.
That sea grape tree has been there for ages. I would like to relax on this veranda. Chaise lounges from One Kings Lane.
The en-suite bathroom. The next bedroom (yellow room) has the same bathroom.
The yellow room. Garden View. Twin beds and dresser are Crate & Barrel. Bedside tables from La Péninsule, St. Martin.
This color was quite controversial. This room gets a LOT of sun and the color changes during the day with the light. It's called Bermuda Sun. Appropriate.
I've just read an article in Architectural Digest regarding how yellow is one of the toughest colors to work with but it's making a comeback. I stand by my choice! Plus, it's very pretty at night.
The closets were built by our carpenter.
In the hallway looking into the half-bedroom and the powder room.
The day bed is from Crate & Barrel. Floor lamp Serena and Lily.
The customs/installation drama with this wallpaper was worth every grey hair.
This is a small room. Powder rooms are the perfect space to go all out. Wallpaper is Thibault (to the trade). Sconce is Circa Lighting.
This is technically the front of the house. You walk in and your eye goes immediately to the view.
The cabinets are custom. Bench is Serena and Lily. Black sconces, hooks, and door knobs from Schoolhouse. Chrome sconce is Circa Lighting and these are in all the bedrooms as well. Art work is a print from St. Martin based artist Antoine Chapon.
Bag is from Ghana sourced at the African Market store, St. Maarten.
The very large Dutch Door. I changed it from a regular door so it's possible to keep the top open for a breeze without worrying about young children, out of eyesight, going outside .
Custom shade is from The Shade Store.
Meads Bay Beach is also famous for its sunsets. Not a bad place to enjoy them. Table, love seat, coffee table, from Le Péninsule and the yellow chairs are from La Maison, both in St. Martin. Tableware and teak candle holders (on the floor) from Crate & Barrel. Table top candle holders from Paloma & Co.
I would love to walk out of the bedroom and sit here with some rosé or rum punch.
No words regarding this view.
Sconces on the veranda are Circa Lighting. Sconces outside the veranda are Shades of Light.
Meads Bay.
Buona notte/Good night!
The logistics of this project were on the Italian bureaucracy level. One thing I would highly recommend is hiring a local project manager from the very beginning, even if you're on island. We started working with Gifford Connor mid-way through this project. Once the pandemic hit, and the borders were closed, I wasn't able to visit the job site even when I was in St. Martin just a 20 minute ferry ride away. It was great to have someone on the ground to keep everything moving forward.
Anguilla is truly a special place. She has managed to retain her soul (so far) despite the increase in tourism. The government looked at what St. Maarten did and decided not to go that route. There are no casinos and no big cruise ships. I didn't appreciate this island when I was a teenager. I thought it was too small and so boring. All my relatives were super strict and nosy. I wished I were back in Jersey at the Willowbrook or Short Hill Malls with my friends. Ha. That all changed once my parents moved back to St. Martin after retiring. I started to spend more time in the Caribbean and realized that all the things that I resented when I was younger, I needed/wanted in my life.
This property belonged to my great-grandmother Priscilla Connor. I don't know much about her and next time I'm in Anguilla I will try to look up when she was born. Her daughter Martha was born in 1898 (and lived to be almost 101 years old). The high-end luxury tourism boom took off in the '80s. Now the Four Seasons (formerly the Viceroy) is on one end of the beach and Malliouhana Hotel is on the other end. My grandmother was a widow and yet she refused to sell her land. She turned down every offer. She said it would go to her children. It did and my uncles and aunt agreed with my mom to let "the kids" build The Cottage. Everyone contributed. We're one of only two or three local families to still own property on this beach. I think of Priscilla often. I wonder what her life was like and what she would think of Anguilla today. This is more than just a beach house to us.
Doors, windows, wood, and indoor shutters sourced from Arawak Hardwoods a local company that also has an office in Florida.
All bathroom fixtures and fittings are from Quality Bath.
Builders: Ernest Fleming and Shawn Romney
Architect: Anderson Home Planners
Project Manager: Gifford Connor, APA - Anguilla Property Services
Photography: KSharp Media
Click HERE for more information regarding vacation rentals.
Lockdown in the Caribbean - No Liming
Greetings from my parents’s veranda.
Liming is Caribbean slang for hanging out. Spending time with family and friends. A party. There’s no liming going on here.
I arrived in St. Martin a day before all Air France flights to and from Italy were canceled. Sheer luck. I had booked my trip after a major project in Italy was postponed due to the CDC raising the travel alert to Italy. My American clients were unable to fly to Italy and I needed to go the Caribbean for our Anguilla beach house project.
When I arrived in St. Martin, in mid-March, I had to self-quarantine for fourteen days. I spent a lot of time in my room and on the veranda, far away from my parents. I was stressed out. I felt fine and we didn’t have a major outbreak in Rome. However, I knew that Covid-19 was highly contagious and it’s possible to be asymptomatic.
During my quarantine period, we (France and French territories) were placed under a strict lockdown. It was supposed to end on April 3rd. It was extended to May 11th.
We’re hoping some restrictions will be lifted in two weeks. It’s been a difficult period. We’ve been very fortunate here on the French side with very few cases of Covid-19. I’m curious to see how the local governments will reopen the borders. I can’t imagine cruise ships with thousands of people docking on the Dutch side any time soon. How will they test for the virus? What about international flights?
Anguilla has no cases at all. They completely shut down their borders. I won’t be able to get to the construction site until sometime (maybe!) late next month.
I’m glad that my parents are not alone during this lockdown. I’m the designated grocery store shopper for them and other elderly relatives. I’ve never been so excited to go to a grocery store or a pharmacy in my life! I put on a nice (but casual, it is the Caribbean) outfit for my once a week trip. I skip lipstick as we must wear a mask. We’re allowed to go outside in/near our neighbourhoods to workout/walk dogs. We have special documents with us whenever we leave the house. The Gendarmes are not messing around.
I did hit a rough patch a few weeks ago but I’m on the other side now. It could be because we’re seeing the positive results of the lockdown and know that better days are coming here and in Italy. I’m worried about the States.
I hope wherever you are, you’re safe and well.
Looking forward to having a rum punch on this beach, Friar’s Bay.
The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *
Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.
This view.
Livia getting her Prosecco on.
Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met. Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude. Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth. She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer. Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.
The lunch Violante prepared was delicious. The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous. I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.
Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.
Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.
Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.
As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.
Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.
Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.
We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.
We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.
Caffe realness.
It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.
The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.
Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.
Plate designed by Violante.
Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.
Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.
BANANAS!
Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events. For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.
*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.
The Design Files - Beautiful Plates from Pastificio Gentile
Recently I was in Umbria at my friend’s Elizabeth and Domenico’s house and I posted this photo on Instagram.
This view, tho!
Quite a few people DM’d, or emailed, me to ask where the plates were from.
I remembered Elizabeth’s Instastories from when she visited Pastificio Gentile and seeing the plates. This family owned company has been making pasta since 1876. Elizabeth wrote this post using their pasta to make two zucchini recipes.
Pasitifico Gentile also sells exclusive handcrafted plates painted by artist Rosalinda Acampora. I thought the blue and yellow ones were lemons at first. They’re yellow tomatoes (and on my wish list). Wait, all of these are on my list!
I’ve read that bloggers have ruined Chevron forever but I don’t care. This plate is fantastic.
Click here to see the rest of their selection.
Elizabeth’s new book, THE ITALIAN TABLE, will be released Spring 2019. I cannot wait to read it.
This is her table setting for a simple lunch. It was beautiful and delicious. I love how Elizabeth mixed patterns. The key is the color palette.
Table photos: Me and my iPhone
Plate photos: Pastificio Gentile
Palazzo Merulana, Rome
I noticed this large abandoned palazzo when I first moved to Rome. I wondered what the history of the building was and why it was falling apart.I found out that it was a city owned property built in 1929. It used to be the headquarters for the Health Administration. Once those offices moved, the building fell into disrepair with some sections abandoned for over sixty years.Palazzo Merulana reopened last month and it's a beauty. Stunning.The renovations took only three years and was a private-public partnership. The space now holds the important collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi. The couple focused on works created in the early 20th century, with the majority between WW 1 and WW 2. The Cerasi family owns a prominent construction company that has worked on projects such as the MAXXI Museum and other public and private works.The Cerasi Foundation would like to see the Palazzo become an important space for visual art, cinema, music, and theatre. They're working closely with several local cultural orgnaizaions. This is quite a gift to the city.A ticket to see the exhibit is four euros. There's a small, charming cafe on the ground and outdoor seating on the patio. The terrace is schedule to open in mid-July and the top floor is reserved for cultural events. 
Here is a short clip about the museum.https://youtu.be/SHw3vc-5fq0 The museum's in a very accessible location. It's about a ten minute walk from the Colosseum with easy access to the Metro and the Tram.121 Via Merulana, 00185, Rome
La Biennale Venice - 2018
My friend Erica invited me to join her on a press trip for the preview of the 16th Architecture Biennale. I haven't been to any of the Biennale. I follow the art, cinema, and architecture ones on social media but it's not the same.
My first (and last) trip to Venice was twelve years ago, late November. Even during off-season, the crowds in the Piazza San Marco area were quite large. The experience did not prepare for last week. More on that later.We were in Venice for only two days/one night. I would love to return to see the Pavilions I missed. Erica has a great write-up on her Instastories.Normally, we'd take a train from Rome but we had to get there in time for the press conference so we placed on a 7:00 am flight. A private boat picked us up. Not a bad way to enter the city. We had a few minutes before the press conference and met the other journalists/architects and their guests. It was a small group, only twelve of us, half were from Milan. Our hosts were wonderful and, my fellow Americans will feel me on this, I couldn't get over how organized everything was. One of the hosts flew from Milan to Rome to meet us on the flight to make sure things were on point.The theme this year is Freespace. The curators are architects Yvonne Farrel and Shelley McNamara of Grafton Architects.
After the press conference we walked over to Local, which was fantastic. It's owned by siblings Benedetta and Luca Fillun and used to be an electrical shop. I spoke more Italian in a day than I have in probably two months.We returned to the Arsenale for a guided tour of the Corderie. From there we were able to see a few pavilions before going to the hotel to check in. My favorite pavilions were the Kosovo, Canada, Italy, Bahrain, Italy, and Croatia Pavilions. I wish I had more time to spend in each one.
Erica and I decided to walk toward Piazza San Marco instead taking the boat. I was NOT READY. Remember, I've never been to Venice during high season. The crowds were on another level. I keep reading about the crowd situation but it's another thing to experience it. 28 million tourists visit Venice a year. Only 55,000 people live in Venice full-time, down from 175,000 post WWII, with around 2000 leaving every single year. AirBnB has pushed the rents sky high, and mass tourism from mega cruise ships turn streets into packed corridors during the day and desolate at night. I don't know what the answer is but this type of tourism is not sustainable.We stayed at the Bauer Palazzo and I was happily surprised to see that we had a terrace. The service was impeccable. It could be because we were with a group of journalists and architects.
As we unpacked and got ready for aperitivi I noticed a chic terrace, a floor higher, on the building next door. I asked the bartender if it was a hotel bar. He said no they were preparing for a private party. I had no idea it was the party we were going to attended. It was a little overwhelming. There was were heavy hitters from the design/architect world and folks were not playing sartorially. The Hugos, and views, were divine.
Post- reception, we had dinner on the patio of the hotel with canal view. During dinner I hear suddenly heard loud gasps. I looked to my left and saw a mega cruise ship rolling into the canal. It dwarfed the buildings. I have no words. Perhaps I'm hyper sensitive to these ships as I've seen what they've done to the quality of life for residents of the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten. I strongly believe the cons outweigh the pros.I woke up at the crack of dawn to jog and it was glorious. The city was quiet, with Venetians going to open their shops and getting ready for the new day. There were a few other tourists out jogging and some taking photos. I got lost in the side streets running toward the Rialto bridge. I didn't mind. It's surreal to be in a city where there are no cars, buses, etc. everything is brought in, and leaves, by boat. I understand why this special city has inspired writers, artists, and artisans for generations. It's a damn shame that it's being destroyed.
Erica and I had a delicious breakfast on the Bauer's rooftop terrace. We were picked up (on time!) and took a our boat to the Giardini (the gardens) to see more pavilions.
We had a guided tour of the Main Pavilion. I highly recommend checking it out. There was a very interesting scale of the NYC Project, one for a Los Angeles project, and several short films. Then we were on our own to see the rest. I have to say, I was fading fast. There was so much to take in. I missed many pavilions that I wanted to see, like Switzerland, and Antique & Barbuda. There wasn't enough time. Of the ones I made it to, America, Nordic (Finland, Norway, Sweden), Russia, France, were stand outs. I loved the roof top deck of Great Britain and France's wine set-up was very clever.
The Russian theme was about train travel and how the largest country in the world is impacted by it. There are areas that are inaccessible by train and the country spans a few timezones, There was a short film, SEVEN DAYS IN SEVEN MINUTES, regarding a man's 9,300km/5780 miles train journey to Siberia. The Pavilion was transformed into a train station with several multimedia exhibits.The Nordic Pavilion dwelt with climate change. Visually this was one of the most interesting pavilions. The large balloons inflated and deflated depending on changing environmental conditions.The American theme was Dimensions of Citizenship, which really resonated with me. There was a fascinating short film, IN PLAIN SIGHT, that used data from global space sensors showing us how humans have organized our planet. It touched on last year's hurricane season and the difference between Houston's recovering and Puerto Rico's. I was blown away by the places that had large population but no lights, and other spots with a large electrical grid but it was used only for tourists or farming.We ended our trip with an delicious outdoor lunch at Corte Sconta. Corte Sconta means, "hidden courtyard". Our meals were included in the trip so I cannot tell you how the prices were. I get the sense that Corte Sconta was the pricier of the two but it wasn't stuffy.It was hot and walking over ten miles in one day got the best of me. By the time I had to meet our group, I was completely exhausted not really physically but it was information overload. It was a lot to process.It's an incredible experience and it was unique to have these conversations in a city like Venice. I was inspired by the architects and designers I met, the Pavilions, and of course the city itself. Grazie mille, Erica.To see more photos and videos from our short trip, I've saved them in my Instastories.The 16th International Architecture Exhibition runs until November 25th, 2018.
Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun
The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.
Michelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point. However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes. We took it.It was great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town. The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day. It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday. Our day trip was the perfect time to go. It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.
Montepuclciano has a population of about 14,000. It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.
As you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town. Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square. The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511. The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.
We ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano. We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria. The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee. Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do. These views are worth the price
I must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio. The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
The Design Files - The Authentics
The Authentics: A Lush Dive into the Substance of Style by Melanie Acevedo & Dara Caponigro, is gorgeous book that takes us into the beautiful homes of dynamic people who work in a variety of creative fields.
Ms. Acevedo is a well known photographer. Ms. Caponigro was one of the founders of DOMINO magazine and is currently the Creative Director of F. Schumacher & Co., the legendary fabric, wallpaper, and rug company.This is a book I will reference time and time again. Some of the names are famous in the design world, like Kelly Wearstler, Miles Redd, and Nicky Haslam, or celebrities such as actress Peggy Lipton and hair stylist Sally Hershberger. There are landscape architects, jewelry designers, chefs, etc. All have an unique point of view.Some of the rooms or gardens might be a bit "much" but I love that in a homogenized world there are people who surround themselves with things that they enjoy regardless of popularity.
Visually, this coffee table book is a knockout. It has thick quality paper and is beautifully photographed.The interviews with these talented creative people were very inspiring. It's easy, thanks to social media, to see the same images again and again. At first everyone is excited and then the same people start to complain that the image is played or trite. The Authentics create their spaces in a way that speaks to their interests, loves, and passions. That approach will never go out of style. 
Polignano a Mare, Puglia - Italy
One of the highlights of my retreat in Puglia with Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga, was our day trip to Polignano a Mare.There are not enough adjectives to describe how beautiful it was, so I hope my photos will help.Polignano a Mare is an approximately forty minute drive from Bari. It's the birthplace of singer Domenico Modugno, known for a little song called Volare. The Historic Center sits on a 20 meters/65 feet limestone cliff. We entered through the main Porta Vecchia gate and happily got lost in the winding streets until lunch time.What a lunch it was. I heard that Ristorante Grotta Palazzese was about the views and not so much the food. Our lunch was delicious. That could be due to the newish chef. The views are spectacular. I thought the service was great but we had a fixed menu and it wasn't too crowded. We were there during the off season. Reservations are a must during the high season and I've read it's quite pricey, especially for dinner.After lunch several of us walked back down to the sea. Two women in our group decided to go in for a dip. An older local gentleman was scandalized to see them walking into the sea with their clothes on. He was concerned they would catch a cold or something wearing wet jeans.
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Day Trip to Alberobello, Puglia
Happy New Year! I hope 2018 brings you much joy, peace, and happiness.I have read about and seen photos of the infamous trulli. Alberobello, which we visited during our Eat, Pray, Move, retreat, was packed with many American tourists even though it was late September. I can see why. There's nothing like it. This region is the only area in Italy that has these unique buildings and there's a concentration of them in Alberobello.The white, cone-roofed houses in Alberobello are a UNESCO World Heritage site. We had a great tour guide who explained the history of the trulli. There are many theories but the most popular one (and likely) is that during the 1600's the nobility imposed a high taxation on any permanent structure. The poor farmers built their houses so the roofs could be dismantled easily, by bascially removing one stone. Very clever.We were able to tour a trullo. It was incredible to learn some of them hosted whole families and their livestock. Other homes were comprised of several trulli with each one being a separate room.Our Masseria had several trulli on its property. I love how the architects incorporated them into the modern structures. Inspiring.
There are trulli with curious symbols on them. Some are clearly religious, the others? Another area for debate.
As you enter the main street of Alberobello, there are two hills. The one on your left is the old town/Historic Center and the main tourist street. It's filled with gift shops and places to eat/drink. There are a few shops selling items made locally. The other hill is more residential and the modern town. There are several piazzas with caffes, and butchers, clothing stores, etc. etc. The restaurant EVO, where I had one of the best meals ever, is located in a quiet corner near the Basilica. I wrote more about it for the Casa Mia Blog. Grazie, Erin for arranging this unforgettable meal and wine pairing.
I suggest spending time on both hills. Alberobello is tiny. The old town does have a bit of a Disneyland vibe but don't let that stop you. The view from the "new" town is spectacular.Alberobello was celebrating its Saint's Day. On the new hill everything was lit.
We were there on a raining cloudy day so my photos of the old town are not great. Here's a better one from zee Internets.
I took this one in the backyard of a trullo in the old town that was under renovation. 
These trulli were in the new town. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Eating, Praying, and Moving in Puglia
I made it to Puglia, finally!I've wanted to visit this region of Italy for years. I was excited to learn that Eat, Pray, Move had a yoga retreat in Puglia and signed up.I wrote about my first yoga retreat which was in Tuscany. That retreat had an art component. This retreat had a Move + Manifest one.We went on days trips to Alberobello, Polignano al Mare, Martina Franca, Matera, and Ostuni. We covered a lot so instead of writing the longest blog post on earth, this is more of an overview and I will write about some of the individual towns we visited later. There was free time built into the schedule so you never felt rushed. All classes and activities were optional.We were a group of twelve women with most of us being from the States and one from Australia. It was a great group and fun to get to know everyone. Small world alert...I was speaking with one of the women and she made a passing reference to the university she graduated from. I told her that I was an alum too. We talked about our previous jobs and she mentioned a best friend, a Hollywood screenwriter, who also graduated from Syracuse University. Her friend was one of my former assistants and it was his first job in the industry. Random!Michelle's workshops were excellent and helpful. I'm slightly biased as I've worked with Michelle earlier this year. It's one thing to open up one-on-one but in a group, not so easy. On the first day I was a little skeptical about the whole thing. By the end of the week, this was me:
I went to Puglia in late September. While we had some rainy days, I've heard from my Pugliese friends that it's a great time to visit. The weather is still warm and it's less crowded. Puglia gets packed in the summer with Italians coming home from other regions, and Italian tourists. It seems that for at least the last five years, there's been a ton of press about Puglia being the "next" Tuscany. Alberobello and Matera had a lot of tourists but overall Puglia is still off the beaten path for most American tourists. It's a shame as Puglia is a beautiful region and the food is off the chain. Seriously, I cannot stress how fresh and delicious the food was. Puglia's in my top four along with Piemonte, Emilia-Romagna, and Sicily as my favorite Italian food regions.Our base was the Masseria Fumarola. It's an hour or so drive from the Brindisi airport. Thankfully, Alitalia wasn't on strike and was still solvent at the time.
The Masseria (which is what country estate houses are called in Puglia) was perfection. It's located in the heart of the Valle d'Itria area. The main farmhouse dates back to the early 1800s. Once a working farm run by the grandmother of the current owner, Masseria Fumarola was renovated by the owner's architect father. He turned it into a beautiful boutique hotel without stripping the buildings of their original charm.Love the stone floors. I was so busy enjoying the conversations and the food, I forgot to take photos of the dining room.
The Masseria is surround by six acres of woodlands that includes, olive groves, vineyards, several vegetable gardens, and orchards.
Each room/bungalow is unique. I loved how the trulli were incorporated.
The pomengranate tree outside our bunalow.
The meals we had were simple, outstanding, and very local. Most of the vegetables came from the gardens.The one day it was warm enough to go swimming in their pool, we went to the sea. We appreciated the huge fireplace in the main building during the cool evenings. We would meet there for workshops, or a glass of wine (or both) and in the morning, there were fruits, tea/coffee available for us before our 8:00 a.m. yoga class.
I was a tightly wound ball of stress when I stepped onto the plane in Rome. I'm still processing everything I learned during the workshops but physically I feel much better.I walked around the property at sunrise. I was greatful for the stillness, the scents, the freshness of the air, and the beauty of it all. My yoga has improved by leaps and bounds since the summer. This time my mind didn't wander. While Erin's classes sometimes kicked my butt (my abs were on fire the next day) I looked forward to that hour and fifteen minutes.Rome can be a very difficult city and this year has really tested my perseverance. During my trip to Puglia, I was able to reconnect a bit with the main reasons why I moved to Italy in the first place.I cannot wait to return to Puglia. Bari and Lecce are on my list.
Photos: Me and my iPhone, except for the pool photo from Masseria Fumarola.
St. Martin and Anguilla Pre Hurricane Irma
As many of you know, my family is from the Caribbean with the majority living in St. Martin and Anguilla.There have been plenty of articles in the international press, and videos, showing the complete devastation and aftermath. As of today, we're still waiting to hear about one of our relatives. We are sick with worry but thankful that most of our friends and family are safe. Many have lost their homes, or have sustained major damage, and the non-retired members, their jobs (for now).It may take up to three years for St. Martin to rebuild. I haven't heard any estimates yet regarding Anguilla.I know these are tiny islands so no one really cares what happens to them. I was speaking to a Hollywood exec friend of my mine whose parents are also from the Caribbean and she noted the overall silence from well known African-American celebrities, including the ones who are from the region (seriously?) and the ones have vacationed on the islands.Perhaps this will change in the coming days.
A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region
The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy. I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.
We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro. Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate. Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work. During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.
Our lunch was excellent. Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate. On a design note, it was perfection. Great service too.
We decide to take a power walk before dinner. I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests. I don't know why boars freak me out. Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive? I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such. I know this is not logical.
During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged. We had a wonderful time. The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious. You never know with communal dining. I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit. Tears. Instead we went old school and played records. John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl. I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap. EW&F is one of my favorite bands. I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period. Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F. This person was also a black American Gen-Xer. I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo. It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance. Paradise.
During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.
We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend. It was delicious, and very pretty.
I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time. I adore this small hill town.
The first time I was there was during the dead of winter. This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off. However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit. We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town. The views were just ridiculous. Hello, is this real life?
The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.
Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi. It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi. Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom. I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003. He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.
We ate lunch in the entoeca. Outstanding. The service was incredible. As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.
The sun was trying to make an appearance.
Monteverdi is an unique experience. There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades. However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo. Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.
Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day. When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning. I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.
If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Countryhouse
My apologies for the radio silence. Work has been bonkers. One of my clients moved back to the States. She was a high-ranking diplomat and her term was up. We needed to organize a major international move for someone who had lived in Rome for quite some time.My trip to La Bandita was the weekend after her move was finished. The timing was perfect. I was completely wiped out.I've been to the Townhouse and was curious about the Countryhouse after reading about it in design magazines. When Annalee invited me to join her, she didn't have to ask twice.
We met at the Chiusi train station and rented a car. Thankfully, Annalee did most of the driving as the two times I've rented a car in Italy I've received a speeding ticket. I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and drove pretty much every single day. I never received a speeding ticket (or any ticket for that matter). NEVER. I really don't understand why I got tickets in Sicily and Tuscany given I was trying to keep up with the flow of traffic. Sorry, I digress.I keep hearing Tuscany is over. Those people are on drugs. Are there some areas that are packed with tourists? Yes, but Tuscany is a large region. There's no reason to write off the entire area.The Val d'Orcia is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been to in Italy. My next post will be about what we did and where we went.Today, I'm focusing on the interior design. I've seen my share of "Tuscan" interiors. Too often there are extremes, either super modern, stripping all the character out of these older homes or too traditional, creating a space that reminds you of the Addams Family's house.Owners Ondine Cohane and John Voightmann, with their architects Ernesto Bartolini and Arianna Pieri of DA Studio in Florence, have a created a contemporary space that is warm, airy, and feels Tuscan. That last quality is so difficult to get right especially in an era of cookie cutter interior design (in part because every city has the same chain stores). Are there elements of the design that would feel at home in say, Miami or the Caribbean? Absolutely. The La Bandita team worked closely with local artisans and used natural materials found in the area. All these pieces came together to create a space that could only be in Tuscany.This article, written by Ondine, is about the how and why John and Ondine opened the Country House.
Annalee and I stayed in The Pigsty Suite. Yes, this independent apartment (just a few meters from the main house) used to be the pigsty.
My pictures don't do it justice. It was perfection. We had our own little patio. The views from our "backward" were breathtaking. The bathroom was immaculate. I have a thing about cleanliness in general and it's taken to another level regarding kitchens and bathrooms.The bathroom was huge and I loved having a shower next to the big picture window. I felt like I was taking a shower outdoors but without the risk of being attacked by wild boars. Seriously, these darn boars are no joke. Annalee and I went jogging before dinner and other guests told us they saw a family of boars right after they passed us on the road. No grazie.
The check in desk/reception is in the main quasi-open planned room with the kitchen and dining areas. There is a lounge/library area with a great selection of books.
My personal hotel tastes lean toward simple but sophisticated interiors. Some might find the bedrooms too minimalist but for me they let the architecture and views shine. The rooms are relaxing and calm which is what I want in a hotel room.
I can see how this hotel may not work for a solo traveler or anti-social couples as the dining space is communal. Bandita Countryhouse would be perfect for a group to rent the entire space.It's truly off the beaten path so I'm glad we arrived during the day. The unpaved road leading to the property is steep but worth it for the 360 views.
While technically it is a boutique hotel, the vibe at La Bandita Countyhouse is more your friend's very chic country house in Tuscany. I am here for it. The hospitality and food were wonderful. John, Ondine, Dario, Elena, Paola, Marco, and the cat (I didn't catch its name) made us feel at home.I had a great time. So much so that I'm willing to deal with the drama of driving a car in Italy again.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.La Bandita CountryhousePodere La BanditaPienza (SI) 53026Toscana, ItaliaTel +39–333–404–6704Fax +1–212–202–6222website
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Contemporary Art in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from Ariella:Over the past few months I have explored art in Rome from a historical point of view, as well as its current and future purpose. While Rome is known for masterpieces by some of the world's greatest artists such as Michaelangelo, Caravaggio, and many others; the city has a vibrant contemporary art culture as well.Art and architecture in Rome is always present. We travel though it everyday, sit in its' spaces, it creates views and vistas and reminds us of the past while providing the setting for the future.Rome functions like a gallery. We circulated much in the same way we travel through a space designed for art. The city has made a concerted effort to integrate contemporary art and modern life with the construction of new museums. These spaces house newer collections and also facilitate the experience of promoting the collaboration between art, architecture, and everyday life.The challenge of the newer buildings and space is not to interfere or interrupt "historic" Rome but rather to blend in. These new spaces have attracted many visitors and artists to the city. Artists come to Rome from all over the world seeking inspiration while many born and raised in Rome have also flourished as artists.Every week for the past few months, I have visited a new contemporary art museum, gallery, studio, or installation and I've been able to learn from the historical cultural wealth of the Rome as well as from the current vibrant scene.My past impressions of contemporary art were of paintings and pieces that were difficult to relate to, very conceptual. Contemporary art is always evolving and now quite a few artists have returned to figurative painting/works.The collaboration reflected in exhibits, events, and installations have shaped the contemporary art world in Rome.I asked Ariella for a list of some of her favorite contemporary art museums and galleries.Museums:MACROMAXXI 
Galleries:Anna Marra ContemporaneaT293Galleria VarsiGalleria Valentina BonomoI'm adding one of my favorites to her list, Galleria Lorcan O'Neill. Ariella mentioned two other spaces. They're not galleries or museums but display contemporary art.MOMA Hostel - a hostel run by artists.MAAM - this space has living quarters for homeless families. The families live with the art. When Ariella went to visit, one of the pieces had a dent in it because the children used it as a soccer/football goal post. I went to a street art exhibit there and thought it was one of the most interesting venues for art in Rome.
Life in Rome - Day Trip to Spoleto
Ciao Bloggisti,Friends of mine recently bought a weekend place in Spoleto and invited me up for a day. It's about forty miles south east of Perugia.It was my first trip to Spoleto and I highly recommend a visit. The Historic Center is very charming with incredible views. I took a lot of photos. Below are a few.Ponte delle Torri - a 13th century aqueduct.One of the highlights for me. Next time I will bring a pair of sneakers or hiking shoes so I could walk further up the trail.
The Duomo - Santa Maria Assunta
More pictures of the Historic Center.
Basilica di Santa Gregorio Maggiore - consecrated in 1146.
Note: This is not a politics blog but the US election last week was not normal.The President Elect would like to commute to the White House, staying mostly in Trump Tower. I was not aware that being President of the most powerful country on the planet was a part-time gig. This would create a major logistical nightmare for the Secret Service and the NYPD. It would also be a headache for residents of the building and the surrounding area as blocks of a major street (5th Avenue) would have to be shut down.There's a silver lining. Trump may not have time or the desire to redecorate the White House. I was thinking of writing a separate post about this space:
SpoletoPhotos: Me and my iPhone Trump Living Room: iDesignArch
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Torino
The floor of the elevator was made of glass and had striking views of the entire building. However, the ride up was not the best experience for those of us with a fear of heights.Looking back, I feel I did not spend enough time in the museum as it's something that could possibly take an entire day. The next day we walked around the city admiring the architecture, walking in and out of churches and buildings. At one point we realized there was a kind of 'exhibition' in the city. Contemporary artists had pieces displayed throughout the city and there was a map of all of the pieces. We grabbed a map and started the trail. This trail took us to some beautiful piazzas and courtyards. One of the pieces was a large cube with a triangular pyramid on top which matched the design of the window almost exactly except it was enlarged. The cafes in Torino were also incredibly beautiful. It was obvious that they were built and designed long ago. The way the aesthetics have been maintained make them unique to Torino, similar to much of the architecture we saw.
Photos by Ariella.
A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily
Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal. Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident. I got lost constantly. It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere. This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man. Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room. It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views. It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.
I woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna. 
It got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before. It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time. I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.
Of course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out. 
Grazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation. None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost. What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner. Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa. It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view. Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. 
Next, Modica.Had a slight fender bender. It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled. At least I wasn't driving a stick shift. I thought Modica was beautiful as well.
Three years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia. I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli. If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again. Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out. The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year! The word is out. There were small tour buses. The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related). I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.
Dinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.
By time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off. Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets. Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada. It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain. I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain. Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general. I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North. However, Sicily keeps calling me. I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring. The food and wine are incredible. The people I've met made me feel at home.
Sicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Rhapsody in Green - Ina Garten's Garden
Ciao Bloggisti,I wish more American cooking shows aired in Italy. We have shows from the UK and France but not many (only the Masterchef shows) from the USA. I wonder why?I think the Barefoot Contessa would do well here. What's there not to love? Ina makes fantastic food and the settings/locations are gorgeous (that kitchen!).I was so excited when the latest issue of ELLE DECOR showed up in my mailbox. One, because it's a miracle when my magazines from the United States arrive on time, or at all, and two, because there was a beautiful spread featuring Ina's garden.It took Ina and Jeffrey ten years to convince the owners to sell the overrun pasture next to their property. Ten years. It was well worth the wait. The design of this garden, by landscape designer Edwina von Gal, is spectacular. I love the formality of the boxwoods mixed with the casualness of the roses, Russian sage, and other plants.You can read more about this gorgeous space on ELLE DECOR's website. The July/August issue is on newsstands now.
Photos: Elle Decor
Life in Rome - Aperitivi at the Beach
Ciao Bloggisti,How's the summer treating you so far?As I wrote in my previous post, I'm trying to improve my attitude and to be more social. My friend Courtney and I had plans to meet for aperitivi on Saturday. Instead of dealing with crowds in the Historic Center on a hot Saturday evening, I suggested we go to the beach. We went to Singita in Fregene. It was fantastic!Sometimes we forget that Rome is so close to the sea. By going for aperitivi instead of lunch or dinner, we would miss beach traffic in both directions.It was just what the doctor ordered. Nice breeze, great drinks, and a beautiful sunset. We started out with non-alcoholic drinks and then switched to a mojito. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone.