Eating, Praying, and Moving in Puglia
I made it to Puglia, finally!I've wanted to visit this region of Italy for years. I was excited to learn that Eat, Pray, Move had a yoga retreat in Puglia and signed up.I wrote about my first yoga retreat which was in Tuscany. That retreat had an art component. This retreat had a Move + Manifest one.We went on days trips to Alberobello, Polignano al Mare, Martina Franca, Matera, and Ostuni. We covered a lot so instead of writing the longest blog post on earth, this is more of an overview and I will write about some of the individual towns we visited later. There was free time built into the schedule so you never felt rushed. All classes and activities were optional.We were a group of twelve women with most of us being from the States and one from Australia. It was a great group and fun to get to know everyone. Small world alert...I was speaking with one of the women and she made a passing reference to the university she graduated from. I told her that I was an alum too. We talked about our previous jobs and she mentioned a best friend, a Hollywood screenwriter, who also graduated from Syracuse University. Her friend was one of my former assistants and it was his first job in the industry. Random!Michelle's workshops were excellent and helpful. I'm slightly biased as I've worked with Michelle earlier this year. It's one thing to open up one-on-one but in a group, not so easy. On the first day I was a little skeptical about the whole thing. By the end of the week, this was me:
I went to Puglia in late September. While we had some rainy days, I've heard from my Pugliese friends that it's a great time to visit. The weather is still warm and it's less crowded. Puglia gets packed in the summer with Italians coming home from other regions, and Italian tourists. It seems that for at least the last five years, there's been a ton of press about Puglia being the "next" Tuscany. Alberobello and Matera had a lot of tourists but overall Puglia is still off the beaten path for most American tourists. It's a shame as Puglia is a beautiful region and the food is off the chain. Seriously, I cannot stress how fresh and delicious the food was. Puglia's in my top four along with Piemonte, Emilia-Romagna, and Sicily as my favorite Italian food regions.Our base was the Masseria Fumarola. It's an hour or so drive from the Brindisi airport. Thankfully, Alitalia wasn't on strike and was still solvent at the time.
The Masseria (which is what country estate houses are called in Puglia) was perfection. It's located in the heart of the Valle d'Itria area. The main farmhouse dates back to the early 1800s. Once a working farm run by the grandmother of the current owner, Masseria Fumarola was renovated by the owner's architect father. He turned it into a beautiful boutique hotel without stripping the buildings of their original charm.Love the stone floors. I was so busy enjoying the conversations and the food, I forgot to take photos of the dining room.
The Masseria is surround by six acres of woodlands that includes, olive groves, vineyards, several vegetable gardens, and orchards.
Each room/bungalow is unique. I loved how the trulli were incorporated.
The pomengranate tree outside our bunalow.
The meals we had were simple, outstanding, and very local. Most of the vegetables came from the gardens.The one day it was warm enough to go swimming in their pool, we went to the sea. We appreciated the huge fireplace in the main building during the cool evenings. We would meet there for workshops, or a glass of wine (or both) and in the morning, there were fruits, tea/coffee available for us before our 8:00 a.m. yoga class.
I was a tightly wound ball of stress when I stepped onto the plane in Rome. I'm still processing everything I learned during the workshops but physically I feel much better.I walked around the property at sunrise. I was greatful for the stillness, the scents, the freshness of the air, and the beauty of it all. My yoga has improved by leaps and bounds since the summer. This time my mind didn't wander. While Erin's classes sometimes kicked my butt (my abs were on fire the next day) I looked forward to that hour and fifteen minutes.Rome can be a very difficult city and this year has really tested my perseverance. During my trip to Puglia, I was able to reconnect a bit with the main reasons why I moved to Italy in the first place.I cannot wait to return to Puglia. Bari and Lecce are on my list.
Photos: Me and my iPhone, except for the pool photo from Masseria Fumarola.
I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.
I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy. I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy. I couldn't wait to leave both times. The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me. Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work. My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage? I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place. I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets. It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch. He couldn't have cared less. Our mutual friend, had the same experience. She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence. She told me I needed to return to the city. That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip. My friends who live in Florence said the same thing. I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about. August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.
No, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi). It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence. In my defense, I wasn't the only one. A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell. She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students. Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then. How could it be? I was there for four days max. They live there. They know Florence. Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time. I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed. Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop. I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno". He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me. Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return. I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains. Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto. Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year. I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money. I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy. These ravioli were light and delicious. The waiters were lovely. It was the perfect birthday lunch.
I met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede. She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company. I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto. It's my kind of place. I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos. I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards. Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.
I met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning. Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence. Currently, she lives in Florence full-time. The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago. We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day. It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in. I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.
This was my first time visiting the church San Spirito. No pictures are allowed inside. Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.
Georgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there. We did. The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.
I went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat. The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy. I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel. It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center. The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.
I took the fast train home. Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.
There are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence. Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit. If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip. A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met. I cannot wait to return.
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Rhapsody in Green - Ina Garten's Garden
Ciao Bloggisti,I wish more American cooking shows aired in Italy. We have shows from the UK and France but not many (only the Masterchef shows) from the USA. I wonder why?I think the Barefoot Contessa would do well here. What's there not to love? Ina makes fantastic food and the settings/locations are gorgeous (that kitchen!).I was so excited when the latest issue of ELLE DECOR showed up in my mailbox. One, because it's a miracle when my magazines from the United States arrive on time, or at all, and two, because there was a beautiful spread featuring Ina's garden.It took Ina and Jeffrey ten years to convince the owners to sell the overrun pasture next to their property. Ten years. It was well worth the wait. The design of this garden, by landscape designer Edwina von Gal, is spectacular. I love the formality of the boxwoods mixed with the casualness of the roses, Russian sage, and other plants.You can read more about this gorgeous space on ELLE DECOR's website. The July/August issue is on newsstands now.
Photos: Elle Decor
Life in Rome - Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps
For almost eight years I walked past Palazzo Altemps at least five times a week. I'm not sure why I waited so long to finally check it out.One Friday, during lunch time, I basically had the place to myself. True, it was the dead of winter but I was surprised.The Palazzo is very close to Piazza Navona and was built during the 1500s. Archaeologists have uncovered ancient Roman structures and artifacts from the 1st century AD, which are displayed on the first floor.Cardinal Marcus Sitticus Altemps acquired the palazzo from the Riario family in 1568. He greatly extended the palazzo to showcase the family's impressive art and and book collections. There are also many standout pieces from the Boncompagni Ludovisi, Mattei, del Drago Albani, and Brancaccio collectionsThis museum is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano which also includes the Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, and Terme di Diocleziano.There is free admission to the museums on the first Sunday of the month.Below are a few pictures I snapped during my tour: 
Palazzo Altemps is opened Tuesday - Sunday from 9.00 to 19.45.Closed Mondays (except Easter Monday and during the "Culture Week"), 1 January, 25 December.The Ticket Office closes one hour before closing time.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - New Year, New Address
I would say Happy New Year, but it’s already January 21th.After living in the Historic Center on Via del Pellegrino for seven years, I have moved to a new neighborhood. I now live in Parioli.To say this is a big change would be an understatement.One of the biggest changes was moving from a furnished apartment to an unfurnished one. I was very fortunate that my former landlady had a great eye but I’m excited to finally have my own furniture.Finding an apartment that was unfurnished was not easy. Smaller apartments tend to be furnished and in Italy/France if your place is unfurnished it usually means you have to buy a kitchen as well. I didn’t have the time or the budget to build a kitchen.I lucked out in finding a place that was semi-furnished; meaning the kitchen was already installed.I’m still getting settled. I have no Internet. Who knows when it will be installed? Could be next week, could be next month. I’m zen about the whole thing as I realized flipping out on Vodafone would not make things move faster.For over twenty-five years, I have lived in homes with white walls. I decided to get out of my comfort zone and paint my front hallway a dark blue. Here some pictures that inspired me to get my Steven Gambrel on.A sea of blue in Mr. Gambrel's West Tenth Street townhouse.
A deep blue foyer in Paris.
Jeannette Whitson's library which created quite a decorating stir.
I went with Farrow & Ball’s Stiffkey Blue.
I will post some pictures as it comes together. Who knows when it will be done? Story of my life.
Castello Di Fumone - Design Inspiration, An Imprisoned Pope, and Drowned Non Virgins.
Over the summer my friend Annie invited me to spend the weekend at her in-laws. They live in Fiuggi. It's only an hour south of Rome but at least a good ten degrees cooler.I happened to visit during Fiuggi's sagra. It was outstanding. When a large group of people started to do the Electric Slide, I fell out. Seriously. Here I was in a small hill town in the middle of Italy (I saw only one other black person there) and folks were doing this:[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5w2Anvecs6s&w=560&h=315] Another highlight of my weekend was our trip to Castello di Fumone, (aka Castello di Longhi). The tour (in Italian) was very interesting.The castle was built sometime between 244 - 455. The name means "Big Smoke." The area was very strategic given its high elevation. Large smoke signals were released to warn towns and cities as far away as Rome about invaders.In 1584 Pope Sixtus V asked the noble Longhi family to take over the upkeep of the castle. It had fallen on difficult times. They did and brought it back to life. Members of the family still live in the castle.Castello di Fumone has one of the largest roof gardens in Europe and the views are spectacular.There were many design elements for me to savor. Annie probably got sick of me not keeping up with the group because I was too busy taking photos.How gorgeous is this decorative wall painting? It represents the Longhi family's crest and colors. I could see a very cool wallpaper inspired by it.
You know one of the buyers at Restoration Hardware has a photo of this chair on an inspiration board.
Castello di Fumone was in the news after Pope Benedict abdicated his papacy. He was the first pope to do so in seven hundred years and only the second pope to abdicate.The first pope to resign was Pope Celestine V. He was captured and locked up in a tiny cell in the castle by his predecessor. He died ten months later at age eighty-six.Annie and I could barely fit into the cell. I pictured this old man sleeping on cold stone floors. I guess his fate was better than the man who was buried alive in the castle walls.Thanks to my excessive photo taking, I miss part of the tour in the archives room. It was for the best. Annie filled me in later.In the 1800s Marquise Emilia Caetani Longhi had seven daughters. She and her husband then had a son, Francesco. His sisters, worried that they would be cut out of their inheritance (everything would go to the male heir), slowly poisoned him to death. Nobody knew how he died until years later when one of the sisters confessed upon the death of her parents.It is said that the ghosts of Francesco and his grieving mother can be heard wailing throughout the castle.His body and some of his personal items are kept in a wooden cabinet.Warning: Photo of a mummified toddler below.This freaked me out.
Portrait of Marquise Emilia Caetani Longhi
I thought after hearing about poor Francesco, that would be it for gruesome stories and we could return to a discussion about all the incredible art.That was not the case. I noticed a well when we first walked into the castle. I asked Annie about it and she said all would be explained later.Apparently, back in the day brides had to see the Baron of the castle on their wedding night. If they were not virgins (how the Baron would know/find out this information, I have not a clue), they would be thrown down the well. WHAT IN THE WORLD?!
There is a lot of history (and shenanigans) inside the walls of this castle. Thanks, Annie for the organizing the trip!
Stylish Simplicity - Ponte Settimia Spizzichino - Rome, Italy
Last month, my friends Erica and Darius hosted another Instagram, "Meet The Romans" meetup. We started very early (to beat the heat) in Ostiense.A few weeks before I was out jogging toward the Basilica of Saint Paul Beyond The Walls, when I noticed a very striking bridge.I found out at the Meetup that this bridge only opened a few months ago. Construction by Rome's Solidus, S.r.l. began in 2010.It was named after Settimia Spizzichino.On October 16th, 1943, the Nazis walked into Settimia's home on Via delle Reginella. She was 22.Settimia was first sent to Auschwitz with her mother, two sisters, and a brother. They died in the gas chambers while Settimia was subjected to Dr. Mengele's "experiments." Later she was transferred to the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. Many of the prisoners died during the long walk and Settimia nearly starved to death.Finally, when she was 24, Settimia was liberated from the camp by British soldiers. She returned to Rome, where she found her father and two sisters who had survived the death camps. She weighed less than 70lbs.She spent the rest of her life educating young people about the Holocaust. She died in 2000 at 79.I thought there was something evocative about this bridge even before I knew the name. The lines are so simple, clear, and yet majestic.
Weekend Inspiration - Shower - Monteverdi, Tuscany
What a week.Just when you think Italian politics couldn't be more confusing or bizarre, they are. I have no idea what is going to happen now. Maybe we'll have new elections.The Pope said good-bye yesterday. The city is packed with tourists who came to see him for the last time. Cardinals are flying in for the conclave and there are journalists in town from all over the world.Work-wise, things were hectic. I'm not sure how it's Friday already.Yesterday, Domenico and I drove up to Tuscany to visit the job site and to meet with our client who flew in from Germany. Normally, we would stay overnight but we decided to make it a day trip and left Rome at 6:30 a.m.It was a very long day. At one point my brain said, "BASTA!" and refused to cooperate. It was around the time I was asking the contractor questions in Italian and then translating his answers into English.On the drive back home, all I could think about was taking a long shower, getting in my PJs, and then watching Law and Order SVU reruns on Fox Crime (I have a thing for Detective Stabler).I wish I had a shower like this:
Unfortunately, I do not.The shower in the photo was designed by Ilaria Miani for Monteverdi. Monteverdi is a group of rental villas and a hotel in the small village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in Tuscany.Stunning. I hope to check it out sometime later this year.In the meantime, Stabler and I will be relaxing this weekend.Buon Weekend!
THE DOOR by Ava DuVernay - Film, Dècor, and Fashion.
In 2011 the Italian fashion label Miu Miu started Women's Tales, a series of short films about women directed by female directors from all over the world.Their most recent short was directed by Ava DuVernay. Ava won the best director award at the 2012 Sundance Film Festival.Here is more information about Ava's short from Miu Miu:The Door, by Ava DuVernay, the fifth Miu Miu Women's Tale, is a celebration of the transformative power of feminine bonds, and a symbolic story of life change. The symbolic centre of The Door is the front entrance of the protagonist's home. As she opens it to greet a friend in the powerfully framed opening scenes, she is shrouded in an oblique sadness. "In the film, characters arrive at the door of a friend in need, bringing something of themselves," explains director DuVernay. "Eventually, we witness our heroine ready to walk through the door on her own. The door in the film represents a pathway to who we are." Clothing is also a symbol of renewal, each change of costume charting our heroine's emergence from a chrysalis of sadness. In the final scenes, she takes off her ring, pulls on long, black leather gloves, and walks, transformed by the emotive power of the clothing, through the door. Not a word was spoken, but Ava told a beautiful story. For some reason, I didn't recognize Gabrielle Union at first!The Door combines three things I'm passionate about, dècor, film, and fashion. Several of the pieces in the short need to be in my closet and hello, that house!I've seen many films with "a glass house in L.A." set design but this one really captured that L.A. loneliness vibe. I loved it.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNM0ha87eU0&w=560&h=315]
Work In Progress - Country House - Tuscany, Italy
I was recently hired by the very talented architect Domenico Minchilli to work on the interiors for a home in the Chianti region of Tuscany, Italy.Words cannot adequately express how excited I am about this project.
We have a mid/late Spring deadline.
Early on, I started to pull images for an inspiration board on Pinterest. Some of the images came from books in my library, photos from my travels, or from my favorite websites. Originally, I had over sixty-five images. It was a great visual tool and helped me see the big picture. I kept that version of the board private so I could show Domenico what I was thinking.Once I had a clearer idea of what the client wanted/needed for their home, I put together a mood board in Photoshop for each room. There has to be a separate post about Photoshop... DRAMA.
I had written a much longer post but deleted it. It was way too sappy.However, I will say I'm thrilled to be working with such an incredible group of people and that 2013 is off to a great start.
Sam Cooke - "A Change Is Gonna Come"
I heard this song from one of my favorite artists over the weekend. I'm still in shock over the Newtown massacre. I hope a change is coming soon because these shootings (and the ones that happen every freaking day) have to stop. What kind of world are we living in?[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbO2_077ixs&w=480&h=360]
Bravo's "Million Dollar Decorators" - Season 2
Tonight (10/9c) is the premiere of Bravo's hit decorating show (in the United States).Unfortunately, I couldn't find any information about the international dates. Last season, it started to air in Italy a few months later on SKY's Real Time channel.It better air here this season. I'm still salty about the E! Channel being dropped. No more "Fashion Police", "THS" or those great specials about murderous cheerleaders.From what I've read and heard, there will be a greater focus on decorating/design this season.Of course this is a reality program and there must be drama as well. A TV series where everything goes well and everyone gets along all the time would be boring.I hope they show more of Kathryn M. Ireland's beautiful home.I asked Martin Lawrence Bullard if he had a new catchphrase for this season. He does!For more info about the show and to see clips, check out Bravo's page HERE.Those of us outside the United States cannot see the clips. Sigh.
It's Important To Treat. Yo. Self.
For those who don't watch NBC's "Parks and Recreation", here are two clips explaining what the heck the title of this post is referring to.
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsABTmT1_M0&w=640&h=360]
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBcRjha8VBc&w=640&h=360]
Not having a steady paycheck is of course one of the major downsides of starting your own company and/or being a writer. Your landlord doesn't care if your latest script is hilarious. If it doesn't sell, you can't pay your rent.
Another downside is the lack of structure. I work from home. My laptop is always around. I don't take the weekends off. I feel guilty if I'm not working on novel number two, tweaking the AGD business plan, finishing a rewrite on a spec, working on my TV idea pitches, etc.
The thing is, I'm producing diminishing returns. I'm fried.
I finally hit the wall last week. While I do have a slew of pitches coming up, (which I have no control over), I have to get some kind of schedule in place.
I also need to treat myself once in a while. I have been so severe with my budget, it's insane. I can account for every single euro I spend.
I have no desire to have credit card debt or to be irresponsible. But I cannot continue to live the way I'm living. Something has to change.
So, I'm going to loosen the reins a little.
Treat. Yo. Self. 2012 has begun.
Traveling To Rome? You Need These Apps.
My friend, Erica, has written a more in-depth post on Huffington Post about Rome based apps. I'm writing about my top three.I receive a lot of e-mails asking me where to eat in Rome. I love to cook and have my favorite restaurants, but I'm by no means an expert. Instead, I suggest people buy apps by Gillian McGuire, Katie Parla and Elizabeth Minchilli. I've asked them why they decided to create their apps (which is a lot of work). Thanks for responding, ladies!Why buy an app? For one, they are updated frequently. Some guidebooks become outdated the moment they are published. Also, these apps are written by people who really know this city. They live here. They see the vendors they write about, know the chef/cooks at the restaurants, and capture the city in a way that someone on short term assignment cannot do.I think they are an invaluable resource. There are a lot of restaurants, gelato places, coffee shops, etc. here and yes, it is possible to have a bad meal in Rome. With these apps, the chances of that happening are greatly reduced.EAT ROME by Elizabeth Helman Minchilli. When Elizabeth was twelve her family moved to Rome. She returned for good while studying in Florence for her dissertation. Elizabeth has written books on design and has been writing about food, design, and travel for various publications for twenty years. One of my favorite features of her app is the comment section. It's great to read everyone's experiences at various restaurants. Elizabeth does respond to feedback which helps keep the app up to date."I'm a big believer in embracing all of the technical innovations that are happening in publishing. While I've always been happy to write for magazines, newspapers and book publishers (and continue to do so) I love the possibility that blogs and apps present. They give me not only much more control over the content, but allow exciting and extremely helpful direct contact with my readers."ROME FOR FOODIES by Katie Parla. Katie grew up in the Garden State (aka New Jersey). She started working in restaurants from a young age and moved to Rome in 2003 after graduating from college. Since her move, Katie has earned a sommelier certificate (FISAR) and an MA in the Cultura Gastronomica Italiana (Universita’ degli Studi di Roma “Tor Vergata”). Katie has has written several guide books and writes about food and travel for a number of publications. The Katie's Picks section is great. She has a very specific POV when it comes to food and doesn't hold back her opinions."I decided to develop and app for a few reasons. I wanted to experiment with new media, find a new way to connect with readers, and monetize blog content. I had the app re-developed in order to introduce concepts of branding and improve user interface."ROME FOR EXPATS by Gillian McGuire. Gillian has lived in Rome for seven years. Prior to her move, she and her family lived in several African countries. Her expats friends call her "The Source" for a reason. I've included an expat app because there are people who travel to Rome and rent apartments and/or stay for an extended period. If you need to know where to find an English speaking dentist, or a hairdresser, cilantro, or maybe you're dying for a bagel, or looking for a personal trainer (to help burn off that bagel), this is the app for you."First, I love an assignment, so I found I was often asked the question "where can I find... x?
Flashback: Françoise Hardy - Le Temps De L'Amour
I went to Cannes last week for the film festival as a guest of my friend's boss. I cannot get this song out of my head. It plays during the trailer of the new Wes Anderson movie, "Moonrise Kingdom", which was the opening film of the festival.The first time I saw the trailer I was worried the movie would be too "twee". There's a reason Anderson is one of the most polarizing film directors working in Hollywood today. I bumped into a film critic last week who told me the movie really moved him (after the first half hour) and I've heard the performances are great.My parents had several Hardy records when I was growing up, but I was trying to fit into suburban America and wasn't checking for a singer from France. Now, like many other things my Caribbean parents liked, I get it.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHkm-ELeDsk&w=480&h=360]Here's the "Moonrise Kingdom" trailer.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7LBojkMo8M&w=640&h=360]
I Know There Is Beef Between Milano And Roma But...
I have to say I had a great time in Milano. I don't think I could live there with all the fog and smog. It's too cold during the winters (ten years in Los Angeles, has clearly thinned my blood) and too grey.The "rivalry" between Rome and Milan is similar to the one between San Francisco and Los Angeles. I swear when I hear Milanese talk about Rome it sounds like a person from San Francisco complaining about flaky Angelenos. Meanwhile many Angelenos say San Francisco is a fake New York and needs to get over itself.The vibe in Milan is completely different from Rome's. As a Milanese friend said to me once, "Milan is an European city. Rome is an Italian city."It's a smaller city, with Milan's city limits population at 1.3 million compared to Rome's 2.8 million. Milan is the business, fashion, media/advertising, and design capital of Italy and many international companies like Google and Sony base their Italian offices there.
[slideshow]
One thing that cracked me up was that every single cab driver (I took a lot of cabs thanks to the strikes. Sigh) told me they thought Rome was beautiful but could never drive there.
When people who drive for a living tell you a place has insane drivers, one must pay heed. One cab driver said, "Look at this traffic! See how we have lanes here and it's orderly? That doesn't happen in Rome." I learned to drive stick in Rome and had to agree with his observation.
I've often heard that the Milanese were not friendly. That wasn't my experience at all. Maybe everyone I met was in a good mood because of the Salone?
On Saturday morning I was looking for a textile showroom located on a small side street not far from the stock exchange. I couldn't get over how quiet it was. I felt like I was in NYC's Financial District. At 10:30 a.m. Rome is already crowded with tour buses and huge groups of tourists following a tour guide holding an stick/flag/umbrella.
When I saw Cattelan's (one of Italy's most famous contemporary artists) piece, I gasped. I could not imagine a work of art like that on Wall Street, especially as the finger is being given to us, the public. I thought it was a very astute comment on the financial meltdown of 2008. When it was unveiled many business people were not pleased but the mayor stood firm. It was only supposed to be there for a month. It might remain in its current location until 2013, then moved to a museum.
Next time I go to Milan, I hope I have time to see some art. And the Prada flagship store.
Buon Viaggio: Salone del Mobile 2012, Milano
This was the first time I've been in Milan for longer than 24 hours and only my second visit. I had a great, yet exhausting, trip.I do realize I saw the city at its most happening. I will write a separate post about Milan. I cannot wait to return.The Salone (April 17-22) is one of the most important and popular design exhibitions in the world.Over 300,000 people attend and there are events all over the city. Fiera Milano Rho was the main exhibit hall. It's massive. I was shocked at how organized everything was. It's not easy to put on an event of this scale.Listed below are a few of my favorite things from the Salone 2012.The bathroom and kitchen exhibitions at RHO:The Miele and Bosch cooking demonstrations.The Diesel/Scavolini kitchen collaboration.SMEG refrigerators with denim covers.In the Center:MERCI pop-up store - located in a courtyard off Via Tortona, the Parisian concept store was packed.Idarica Gazzoni - This Italian textile designer is one of my favorite artists. I love her use of color.Paola C. - The studio spotlights young international artists working in glass, ceramics, and metals. The Foxy pitcher won the Wallpaper Design Award in 2011.
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Boffi - I had no idea their bathroom line was so extensive. I could've stayed in the showroom for hours.
Dimore Studio - This interior, furniture and lighting design firm had one of the most beautiful spaces of the Salone. No photos were allowed. I saw some people sneaking shots anyway, which I thought was kind of rude.
Dedar - The firm where I interned used Dedar's fabrics frequently. Having the opportunity to visit the showroom was a highlight of my trip. Their Hermès collaboration is everything.
Alessi - The Piana chair designed by David Chipperfield.
I just got back yesterday and I'm still processing my trip. Now comes the downside of traveling, unpacking.