My Ciao Bella interview with JJ Martin, founder of La Double J

Buongiorno a tutti!

Erica Firpo's Ciao Bella has published my interview with JJ Martin. Yes, it's true I rave about her and her brand often but I know first hand how difficult it is to be an entrepreneur in Italy. What JJ has created is incredible.

It was truly a pleasure to sit down with this very talented and dynamic woman to discuss interior design, creativity, and living in Italy.

To The Max: Designing Milan’s La Double J Store

Brick and mortar maximalism

When I read LaDoubleJ (those fabulous maximalist dresses from JJ Martin, Patron Saint of Patterns) was going to open its first retail shop, I couldn’t wait to see its interiors, not just because I’m a decorator but also as a fan of JJ Martin’s colorful brand. As luck and business would have it, I had to travel to Milan to meet with a new client. And Erica, knowing that visiting the new La Double J store was a “must” on my list,  asked me if I could write about the store.  JJ was gracious to carve out some time in her busy schedule to sit down with Ciao Bella to discuss the design of her new store and her brand.   

Arlene Gibbs: First question.  What inspired you to open an actual store, brick and mortar, at this moment when all we hear is that retail is dead. It’s all about e-commerce.  No one goes to stores anymore.

JJ Martin: Well, we started as a direct to consumer business and an online business so I totally agree with that.  I don’t think it makes sense at all, these brands that were built on brick and mortar with three hundred shops around the world. It doesn’t feel relevant anymore, especially these cookie cutter shops that all look the same.  When you scan these streets, you can’t even tell the difference.  They all have white walls, really bright light, chrome or gold finishes.

AG:  You could be on Rodeo Drive.

JJ: You could be anywhere.  So, a huge network of stores was never my vision nor will it be.  However, we stared in this little showroom in Milan that was our showroom, our atelier, our office, our workroom, everything, and we were also selling clothes at the very beginning from there. It literally did like five things.  What we kept hearing from people all the time was, “don’t you have a place we could try on more clothes?”

To read the rest of the interview, click HERE.

Photos courtesy of La Double J.

Villa Necchi, A Must See/Do in Milan

Ciao from a rainy morning in Rome.

I know I said I was going to write on this here blog more often but work this year has been very hectic. Perhaps things will slow down during Spring '22! I'm not complaining as these are good problems to have, especially during these strange pandemic times.

I went to Milan last week, just overnight, for the Salone. The energy in Milan was incredible. I felt safe going to showrooms and events as there were Covid protocols in place. Milan and the surrounding area were hit hard last year and no one wants to return to a lockdown.

I'm writing this while still on a Design Week high. I went to Milan in July for work and I was finally able to visit this palazzo. It has been on my list for ages and seeing the movie IO SONO AMORE/I AM LOVE only added fuel to my desire. The full name is Villa Necchi Campiglio but most know it as Villa Necchi.

Villa Necchi was designed and built by architect Piero Portaluppi from 1932 -1935 for the owner of the Necchi company, Angelo Campiglio, his wife Gigina and his sister-in-law, Nedda. There were some modifications and additions added by Architect Tomaso Buzzi after WWII. His style was a bit more traditional and you can see the difference as you walk through the villa. The villa was occupied by the fascists during the war and the family called Architect Buzzi once they were able to finally return to their home.

It took my breath away and pictures do not do it justice. It's amazing to see how modern these rooms from the early 20th century look and feel! It takes serious talent to design spaces that are classic yet contemporary. Portaluppi and his clients were truly ahead of their time. The Necchis entertained often and the house's public areas layout reflect this. This house was THE place to be back in the day.

The family had no children and instead donated their home to the non-profit FAI, the Italian National Trust.

The home has a large private garden with a swimming pool and tennis courts. Remember this is in the center of a large city! The villa is also filled with art, mostly 18th century, including artists Canaletto, Marieschi, and Tiepolo.

Look at the ceiling in the library! That design is a Portaluppi signature and you see it employed discreetly through out the villa.

I won't say anything to spoil the film for those who haven't seen it yet but one of the most important scenes in the movie takes place in this location.

The bathrooms were to die for. Again, I couldn't believe there were built in the 1930s. The veranda was another favorite room. The furniture was original and I could see those pieces being sold today. Even the utility rooms were design heaven. The Necchi family had custom Richard Ginori dinner service. I love the design of the "C" logo.

Style/fashion lovers will get a kick out of the sisters' built-in closets. The custom pieces from Gucci, Ferragamo, and Hermès are gorgeous. Quality and design like that never goes out of style.

The guides were very helpful, bilingual and there were two or three on each floor. I cannot recommend visiting this gem enough. My pictures and videos from this fantastic tour are in my Instagram highlights.

Buon weekend!

All villa photos: Giorgio Majno, © FAI — Fondo Ambiente Italiano

The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *

Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.

This view.

Livia getting her Prosecco on.

Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met.  Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude.  Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth.   She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer.   Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.  

The lunch Violante prepared was delicious.  The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous.  I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.

Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.

Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.

Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.

As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.

Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.

Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.

We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.

We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.

Caffe realness.

It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.

The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.

Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.

Plate designed by Violante.

Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.

Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.

BANANAS!

Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events.  For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.

*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.

The Design Files - Royal Wedding Dresses

You may have heard that there's a royal wedding this weekend in the U.K.I'm very curious about Meghan's wedding dress.  Her style is classic.  She wears the clothes, not the other way around.  Meghan's not jumping on every random trend and clearly knows what works for her figure.  The only look I didn't love was her dress for her official engagement photos.  The dress was stunning but I wasn't sure why she was wearing it during a day shoot and Prince Harry's suit was too casual for the dress.Below are three royal wedding dresses that I adore.  They all have beautiful silhouettes, the brides look comfortable, and the styles are not dated.  I watched Princess Diana's wedding and remember even as a kid thinking her dress was (to reference one of my favorite movies of all time) too meringue.  Perhaps it because she was younger than the bridges below,  had a very sheltered life, and it was the early 80s.   Princess Diana was drowning in her dress.Princess Grace was married in 1956 and this dress is still influencing wedding and formal dress designers.  It was designed by Helen Rose who was a costume designer for MGM Studios.  She designed two dresses, which were gifts from the studio to their star.  Helen was the CD on four of Princess Grace's MGM movies.Gorgeous and timeless. Princess Catherine 2011.  Designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. Sarah took over as Creative Director of the house in 2010 after McQueen's death.  I don't know if it's rule that shoulders must covered for church wedding in the UK but this dress definitely helped bring back sleeves for wedding dresses.The sleeveless wedding dress had dominated for years.  It didn't matter that the style was hard to pull off and not universally flattering.  Bridal dress manufactures are happy to make this style because it's cheaper to make.  Many American brides complained about the difficulty of finding wedding dresses with any kind of sleeve that wasn't dowdy and/or dated.  That changed after 2011.This dress is modern and fresh. Princess Mabel 2004.  The Princess married the late Dutch Prince Johan Frisco in a custom Viktor & Rolf dress.  Instead of buttons, the fashion forward Dutch designers used bows.  The cut on this dress is beyond.   The bows add a bit of whimsy.The bride turned down their more conventional designs and asked for something memorable.   It's unique without being a costume.[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VQMP8LYEV4&w=560&h=315]

The Design Files - The Authentics

The Authentics: A Lush Dive into the Substance of Style by Melanie Acevedo & Dara Caponigro, is gorgeous book that takes us into the beautiful homes of dynamic people who work in a variety of creative fields.Ms. Acevedo is a well known photographer. Ms. Caponigro was one of the founders of DOMINO magazine and is currently the Creative Director of F. Schumacher & Co., the legendary fabric, wallpaper, and rug company.This is a book I will reference time and time again.  Some of the names are famous in the design world, like Kelly Wearstler, Miles Redd, and Nicky Haslam, or celebrities such as actress Peggy Lipton and hair stylist Sally Hershberger. There are landscape architects, jewelry designers, chefs, etc.  All have an unique point of view.Some of the rooms or gardens might be a bit "much" but I love that in a homogenized world there are people who surround themselves with things that they enjoy regardless of popularity.Visually, this coffee table book is a knockout.  It has thick quality paper and is beautifully photographed.The interviews with these talented creative people were very inspiring.  It's easy, thanks to social media, to see the same images again and again.  At first everyone is excited and then the same people start to complain that the image is played or trite. The Authentics create their spaces in a way that speaks to their interests, loves, and passions. That approach will never go out of style.   

The Design Files - Interior Design Master Class

Edited by Carl Dellatore, INTERIOR DESIGN MASTER CLASS: 100 Lessons From America's Finest Designers On The Art of Decoration, is an outstanding book.Although it's geared towards students of design and professionals, this book would appeal to anyone who's curious about interiors.The book is divided into six sections: theory, structure, style, process, elements, and inspiration. Within these sections, A-list interior designers and decorators discuss everything from floor plans, lighting, comfort, color, texture, etc. etc.  This insightful peek into their process, inspiration, and interiors is a real treat. The designers range from well-established legends of the industry to the new guard.MASTER CLASS is packed with useful information and it's also gorgeous.  I loved it.This book will be a classic. 

Taking My Holiday Salutations To The Next Level With Paperless Post

I always sent holiday cards when I lived in the States. Growing up it was a big deal as my parents had a very long list.  They would also enclose handwritten letters to our family in the Caribbean.  I loved sending and receiving cards.  This was a tradition I hoped to continue once I moved to Italy.I was so naive back then.  So naive!I heard that the Italian postal system was not the most efficient.  However, I was surprised to receive Christmas cards in March, April, etc. or not at all.  I mailed my cards in November just in case.  It didn't matter, half my cards would show up long after the holidays were over.Then there's the cost.  It's two euros/two dollars and thirty-five cents for a single stamp to the United States or to the Caribbean. It was annoying spending money on cards that did not arrive on time or were lost.A lot of my friends in Hollywood use for invitations, announcements, and cards.  I've personally never used the brand but adored what I had received. I say this as a person who's a hardcore stationary fan.  When Anagram Interactive asked me if I would be interested in using their client's website, I was excited to try it out for myself.Paperless Post's website is very easy to use.  Hello, nobody has time to decipher websites that are more complicated than filling out a tax return.  There's a wide variety of cards to choose from. Some of the cards are free and cards can be customized for a small additional cost.  Paperless Post has collaborated with several designers (including some of my favorites) as well as having an in-house design team.With so many options you'd think it would be overwhelming to make a decision. Nope, there are filters to help you narrow your selection by color, designer, card shape, greetings, etc.  Below are some of my picks for the cocktail party I'm not having thanks to a leak in my apartment (long story).Here are some of my picks for holiday cards:You also have the option of adding your own photo, or photos, to a card:Paperless Post started selling both digital and paper versions in 2012 after receiving many requests from their customers.  Brilliant idea, especially for those customers who are sending wedding invitations. They may have relatives or family friends who prefer paper invites.It's clear that the young founders of Paperless Post have put a great deal of thought into the design of the cards and the site in general.  They've combined beauty and function. Very impressed.Note: I've been given this product to review in collaboration with Anagram Interactive. All opinions remain my own and I was in no way influenced by Anagram Interactive or Paperless Post. 

I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.

I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy.  I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy.  I couldn't wait to leave both times.  The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me.  Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work.  My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage?  I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place.  I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets.  It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch.  He couldn't have cared less.  Our mutual friend, had the same experience.  She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence.  She told me I needed to return to the city.  That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip.  My friends who live in Florence said the same thing.  I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about.  August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.No, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi).   It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence.  In my defense, I wasn't the only one.  A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell.  She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students.  Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then.  How could it be?  I was there for four days max.  They live there.  They know Florence.  Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time.  I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed.  Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop.  I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno".  He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me.  Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return.  I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains.  Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at  Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto.  Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year.  I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money.   I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy.  These ravioli were light and delicious.   The waiters were lovely.  It was the perfect birthday lunch.I met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede.  She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company.  I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto.  It's my kind of place.  I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos.  I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards.   Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.I met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning.  Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence.  Currently, she lives in Florence full-time.  The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago.  We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day.  It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in.  I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.This was my first time visiting the church San Spirito.   No pictures are allowed inside.   Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.Georgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there.  We did.   The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.I went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat.  The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy.   I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel.  It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center.  The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.I took the fast train home.  Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.There are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence.  Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit.  If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip.  A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met.  I cannot wait to return.Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.     

A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region

The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site.   Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy.   I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro.  Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate.  Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work.  During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012. Our lunch was excellent.  Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate.  On a design note, it was perfection.  Great service too.  We decide to take a power walk before dinner.   I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests.  I don't know why boars freak me out.  Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive?  I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such.  I know this is not logical. During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged.  We had a wonderful time.  The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious.  You never know with communal dining.  I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit.  Tears.  Instead we went old school and played records.  John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl.  I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap.  EW&F is one of my favorite bands.  I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period.  Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F.  This person was also a black American Gen-Xer.  I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo.  It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance.  Paradise.During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend.  It was delicious, and very pretty.I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time.  I adore this small hill town.   The first time I was there was during the dead of winter.  This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off.  However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit.  We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town.  The views were just ridiculous.  Hello, is this real life?The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.  Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi.  It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi.  Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom.  I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003.   He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.     We ate lunch in the entoeca.  Outstanding.   The service was incredible.  As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her. The sun was trying to make an appearance.Monteverdi is an unique experience.  There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades.  However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo.  Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day.  When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning.  I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.  If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone           

The Design Files - Nursery Tips

My sister and my brother-in-law had their first child last month.  My brother and my sister-in-law have two boys so now I have three nephews.Nurseries are fun rooms to decorate. However, it can be a stressful time for families as they try to get this room together before the baby arrives.  Below are some tips:Don't overlook the function of the room. It's easy to do when you see things like this:Make sure the space is practical.  For example, is it easy to get to the changing table?  Is everything you need for the changing table, wipes, diapers, etc., near the table?Window treatments.I like roman shades.  Curtains are fine for babies but once they start crawling, it's better not to have anything on the floor that they can get tangled in.   Keep an eye on the cords.  Whatever treatment you decide on, can it block out light if needed?  If the curtains are too sheer, get black out rolling shades.Babies don't care what the room look like.  You will spend hours in this room.  Is it comfortable and soothing for you?Not every piece of furniture needs to come from a baby store.  A dresser can be turned into a changing table.To save money, re-purpose furniture and pieces that you already own.The room should reflect the rest of the house.  If you're someone who loves minimalist mid-century, the nursery doesn't need to look like some cutesy, super traditional space with bright colors, and visa versa.  There are ways to incorporate your taste into the room.When it comes to painting the walls, I'm a big fan of grey, and creamy whites for gender neutral colors.  They're classic, and depending on the shade, work with all types of décor from traditional to contemporary.  A light yellow is great too but a more difficult color to work with.Wallpaper. This is the room to add an accent wall with a bold paper:If your taste fall to the more subtle side, something like this gives you a moment without being overwhelming:Decals are a great for renters.Unless you have time and money to decorate constantly, select furniture, art, and colors that will grow with your baby.  Once they get older, you will redo the space for a big girl/big boy room.It's unlikely that a baby is a Frozen or Hot Wheels fan.  Cutesy or trendy themes will feel dated and will become tired very quickly.Do you have enough storage?  Clutter is the last thing you need in this room.  You don't want trip over things during a midnight feeding when you're exhausted and not the most alert.Don't forget the books, art work, and the accessories.  It's the little things that take a room from ho hum to something special.Here are some more fab nurseries:Save

Guest Post - Studying Abroad in Rome

Ciao Bloggisti,This is the last post from our intern, Ariella.  I asked her to write about her overall experience studying in Rome.  It was a pleasure to work with Ariella and we wish her the best as she continues her studies at Cornell University.I have spent the last four and a half months exploring Rome. I've immersed myself in a new culture, started to learn a new language, admired the art and architecture of this amazing city that continues to create history, and meandered through its confusing yet welcoming streets.The illusions and expectations of studying and living abroad in Rome were surpassed by the realities of my temporary new home. The only real challenge seemed to be the difference in the food markets, which I quickly understood. How fun and interesting to be able to select and purchase food that looked real and smelled as it should. The shadows of dust and dirt reminded me of where the food actually came from, as opposed to very manicured and polished plastic packages of foods that all looked the same and had no aroma.Stopping at every cafe along the way as I discovered my neighborhood and others I explored, I found my comfort zone. While homesick for family and friends for a short first week, I'm now faced with the fear of returning as I know I will long for the place I will be leaving behind. I suppose it's good to leave with the feeling of wanting to return as my mission feels unfinished. I fantasize about returning for an extended period of time and can even imagine living here in the future.Rome has surpassed my expectations and has given me much to think about. I have enjoyed the people, the culture and lifestyle, and the way one moves through this city. It has been so interesting to see how such an old city with all its monuments and history has been able to have continuity despite the politics and introduction of globalization. This is evident by all the current problems of immigration, unemployment, housing, circulation etc. It's obvious that to preserve and yet become a place where the locals and visitors can enjoy this eternal city, introducing and maintaining infrastructure in the existing urban fabric has been quite a challenge.It has been a privilege to live and learn in this setting with Rome’s varied colors as they age and as the sun rises and sets through the changing seasons, giving us different perspectives of an everlasting place. 

A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily

Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal.  Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident.  I got lost constantly.  It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere.  This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man.  Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room.  It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views.  It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.I woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna.   It got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before.  It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time.  I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.Of course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out.    Grazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation.  None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost.  What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner.  Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa.  It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view.  Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. Next, Modica.Had a slight fender bender.  It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled.  At least I wasn't driving a stick shift.   I thought Modica was beautiful as well.Three years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia.  I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli.  If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again.  Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out.  The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year!  The word is out. There were small tour buses.  The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related).  I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.Dinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.By time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off.  Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets.  Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada.  It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain.  I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain.  Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general.  I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North.  However, Sicily keeps calling me.  I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring.  The food and wine are incredible.  The people I've met made me feel at home.Sicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.         

Io Adoro - E' Stile Bookstore

I'm still getting to know my neighborhood.  One Sunday morning, I jogged past an interesting store window and made a mental note to check it out.Oh man, this place is going to be an issue.  E' Stile is a concept bookstore focusing on art, fashion, and interior design/architecture.They have a GREAT book selection.  I do order from Amazon sometimes, especially English language books but nothing beats going to an actual bookstore.  Yes, it's more expensive.  However, I believe it's important to support small shop owners.  I like to browse and speak with the salespeople about the books. You can't duplicate that experience with online shopping.E' Stile also carries Chez Dede bags, products from brands like Kartell and Alessi, and there's a gallery space downstairs.      Photos:  Me and my iPhoneE' Stile BookstoreVia Chiana, 15+ 39 06 8555337     

Life in Rome - Chez Dédé Opening Party

A few years ago I wrote about how much I adore the boutique accessories label founded by Andrea Ferolla and Daria Rein, Chez Dédé.There has been a lot of retail space turnover in our neighborhood.  Antique stores, artisans, etc., are shutting down and Subway fast food restaurants, and other weird sandwich shops are taking over.  There have been some great additions, like the Suppli spot but for every one of those there are four or five  places that leave locals scratching their heads.Via Monserrato is one of the prettiest streets in Rome.  When I saw the large for rent sign where Ilaria MIani's showroom used to be, I became very nervous.  What kind of janky business would set up shop on this street?Then I saw this:YAS!The store had its opening last week. Erica and I walked over and bumped into a bunch of our neighbors. One of our favorite bartenders, Fabrizio from Pierluigi, made the Kir Royales.Unfortunately, for me, the store is stunning.  I should just leave my wallet there and let them take my money.  All of it.Erica completely fan-girled LInda Rodin. I don't blame her.  Ms. Rodin is a style icon for a reason. She was so gracious and didn't give us the side-eye for geeking out.I think I need to treat myself to a nice Grand Sac bag for my birthday.  It's a big one (no, I'm not going to say which birthday it is as I still work in Hollywood).  I haven't decided which bag yet. The island of Salina is one of my favorite places in the world but I also love the colors/style of the Portofino, Kenya, and Dubai bags.  I haven't been to any of those places, so I think I should go with the Salina bag.Below are photos from the opening.  Grazie mille, Daria for the invite!EDIT:Okay, I wrote this yesterday with the plan to publish today. I like to proof read before publishing yet, some typos still make it through. Grrrr.On Saturday my friend Courtney called me and said she had to speak with me urgently on Sunday.  I asked what was wrong. Why couldn't she tell me over the phone?  I was working all day on Sunday but said I would meet her in the afternoon.  Erica wanted me to stop by her daughter's lemonade stand. I said I was on my way to meet Courtney but would stop by. I was worried about Courtney.  Erica said she was too and hoped that everything was okay.I show up at Etablli.  Courtney sends a SMS saying she's on her way and she asks me to order her a glass of wine. What the heck was going on? Was her news so heavy she needed to have a drink in hand?She walks in and Erica (!) is right behind her.  They say, "Happy Birthday" and then this happened:I had no idea they were planning this!  Erica thought I was going to buy the bag before my birthday so she and Courtney went into action over the weekend.  My birthday isn't until August 26th.I was/am floored.  I am not an easy person to surprise and they totally got me.  Well played ladies, well played.  I love my bag. Andrea is a very talented illustrator.Linda Rodin. Fabulous.Erica and Linda.So true. Photos: Me and my iPhone

Life in Rome - My Attempt to Take Ballet Classes at the "Fame" School

Recently, I wrote about how I was inspired by Garance Doré's post on the New York City Ballet.Last week I checked out IALS (Istituto Addestramento Lavoratori dello Spettacolo) aka the Fame school in Rome. It was a straight-up disaster.I had signed up for a Beginner's class.  There were three other women in my class who looked like ballerinas.  The teacher, an older gentleman from Eastern Europe, quickly shouted out some choreography.  I was overwhelmed within sixty seconds.I thought I was doing this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rnaq1iwxOF0 But it was more like this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2K4Kusf-a4Not a good look.The teacher stated, "You've never done ballet before."   No, that is why I'm taking a Beginner's class!  The other women had excellent turnouts. It was obvious they had experience. There are three different levels for Beginner's and I was in the first one.  What the heck was going on?During one routine, we had to put our legs on the barre.  I'm short and my leg could barely reach it.  The only time the teacher walked over to me was when I was struggling to reach the barre.  He pushed my torso closer to it and I thought my body would split in two.When the three ladies started pirouetting across the floor, I had to pull over to the side.I felt very discouraged after the ninety minute class was over. Clearly, I was too short and too old to take ballet lessons. I walked home (of course it started to rain) in a funk.I spoke to my friend Courtney who studied ballet as a child and to this day still does the warm-up exercises she learned.  She told me not to give up and to try another teacher's class.I already had a monthly pass, so why not?  I did and it was a revelation.The teacher, a svelte Italian man who could probably lift three times his body weight, introduced himself and asked me if I understood Italian. There were ten of us in the class and it was co-ed.  He showed us the choreography, calling out the different positions while drawing our attention to his hand movements.  As we danced, he would correct our form.He had two assistants and they also demonstrated the moves.  If a sequence was too difficult for some of us in the class, he told us to watch the assistants, the more advanced dancers, and to do our best, "tranquilla!"During my first lesson, I felt clumsy.  In his class, I felt graceful.  I appreciated how he would walk over and show us where our hands, feet, and/or head should be.  When we executed a move well, or corrected mistakes on our own, he would say, "bravo/brava!"At one point, while he was changing our music, I could hear the music from the Advanced class in the studio across the hall.  It was "Concerto for Two Violins and Orchestra in D Minor"by Johann Sebastian Bach.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJh6i-t_I1QThis is one of my favorite pieces of music. I was so moved, I had to choke back tears.Once the class ended, we thanked Il maestro and his assistants.  The ninety minutes had flown by.  The next group of dancers and their teacher rushed in as we put on our street clothes in the hallway.I know my turnout will improve and it's okay that I didn't start lessons when I was four. I'm starting ballet now and I love it.          

Weekend Inspiration - Freedom of Expression

The one-two punch of the SONY hack from a few weeks ago and the terrorist attack in Paris on Wednesday, is a clear reminder that the right to express oneself is very important in a modern society.  This is a bigger issue than a comedy or a cartoon.Without freedom of expression, democracy cannot exist.Last night, on my way home, I walked through Piazza Farnese where the French Embassy is located in Rome.   I have been in this building several times, mostly to vote.  I saw many employees, neighbors, and French expatriates gathered in the square holding candles.  The entire square was packed.  It was somber but moving.Buon weekend a tutti.

It's All About Sicily In Fathom Magazine

The award-winning Fathom Magazine is celebrating Sicily this week.  I'm trilled that I get to join in the festivities.My article is about Sicily and the solo traveler.When I booked my trip, I didn't think it was a big deal that I was traveling alone.   Then once everyone and their mother kept saying, "Wow, you're going to Sicily by yourself?!", I started to get nervous.You can read about my Sicilian adventures HERE.The entire series is fantastic.  I want to book a trip now. 

Stromae - The Greatest News Out Of Belgium Since Jean-Claude Van Damme, Waffles, and Fries

Please forgive my geek out over Stromae (aka Paul Van Haver).Last week I was in St. Martin to see my family and in Anguilla for work.  All week my sister, brother-in-law, and I, kept hearing this killer French song... in the car, at beach bars, etc.  The first time I heard it I was hooked.  It was so different from anything else out there in pop.This morning I woke up to an email from my sister saying she Shazamed it but the clip didn't show up until she returned to DC.I went to iTunes because I had to buy the single. While I was there I noticed there was another single that was number one. I clicked on it and "discovered" it was  a song I've been hearing a lot in Italy lately.  I've been trying for weeks to track down it down.Stromae was born in Belgium to a Belgium mother and a Rwandan father.  You can hear the influences of Euro dance music, African music, Caribbean music, and American hip hop in his work.I am OBSESSED with his album Racine Carrée.   Obsessed.   It has been a monster hit in Europe, including the non French speaking countries.  I wonder if he will have a hit in the States.  I cannot remember the last French song to do so.  It also reached the top ten in Canada.I will always associate this song with being in Caribbean.  It's only March but it's in the running to be my summer of 2014 jam.  The drums are giving me life.  Seriously.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEucb8qtBmA&w=560&h=315] Stromae studied music and film in school.  This video moved me.  His father was killed during the Rwandan genocide in 1994.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiKj0Z_Xnjc&w=560&h=315] And the song that is currently a huge hit in Italy.  Stromae showing both sides of a relationship.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAMWdvo71ls&w=560&h=315]Despite studying French for seven years in school, I speak at most ten words.  I looked up the translations to Stromae music.   His lyrics address a variety of issues, most of them pretty heavy.  There is substance to go with the beats.  I get why he has received both critical and commercial success.I haven't been this excited about a new (to me) artist since the first time I heard Amy Winehouse.  

Weekend Inspiration - Driven to Tears - Robert Downey, Jr and Sting

In the States we tend to define ourselves by what we do for a living.  Therefore, working in any creative field is not easy.  There's the whole art vs business debate, the struggle to actually make a living, and the fact that most people have no idea what it is you do day-to-day.I sometimes buy into this, feeling unanchored because I cannot be put into a specific category.   The last time I was in Los Angeles, I was speaking with a friend who's an agent at CAA.  He  told me that I was over-thinking everything.  I could decorate and write.  I didn't have to choose one over the other.My brain couldn't process this.  How could I BE two things at the same time?!Thankfully, several of my very talented friends reminded me that creative people are creative.  Basta.   If you're a truly creative person, you will not be fulfilled unless you are able to do the work that inspires you. It doesn't matter what the medium is.  They also told me to stop confusing what we do with who we are.Robert Downey Jr acts.  He also sings... well.  This confuses some people.  I don't know why.  This is not a Paris Hilton "Stars Are Blind" situation.Here he is singing one of my favorite Police songs.   I love his little dance move at the end.  I do that too but in the privacy of my own home.Buon weekend![youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1crxmBTxRlM&w=560&h=315]