Villa Necchi, A Must See/Do in Milan
Ciao from a rainy morning in Rome.
I know I said I was going to write on this here blog more often but work this year has been very hectic. Perhaps things will slow down during Spring '22! I'm not complaining as these are good problems to have, especially during these strange pandemic times.
I went to Milan last week, just overnight, for the Salone. The energy in Milan was incredible. I felt safe going to showrooms and events as there were Covid protocols in place. Milan and the surrounding area were hit hard last year and no one wants to return to a lockdown.
I'm writing this while still on a Design Week high. I went to Milan in July for work and I was finally able to visit this palazzo. It has been on my list for ages and seeing the movie IO SONO AMORE/I AM LOVE only added fuel to my desire. The full name is Villa Necchi Campiglio but most know it as Villa Necchi.
Villa Necchi was designed and built by architect Piero Portaluppi from 1932 -1935 for the owner of the Necchi company, Angelo Campiglio, his wife Gigina and his sister-in-law, Nedda. There were some modifications and additions added by Architect Tomaso Buzzi after WWII. His style was a bit more traditional and you can see the difference as you walk through the villa. The villa was occupied by the fascists during the war and the family called Architect Buzzi once they were able to finally return to their home.
It took my breath away and pictures do not do it justice. It's amazing to see how modern these rooms from the early 20th century look and feel! It takes serious talent to design spaces that are classic yet contemporary. Portaluppi and his clients were truly ahead of their time. The Necchis entertained often and the house's public areas layout reflect this. This house was THE place to be back in the day.
The family had no children and instead donated their home to the non-profit FAI, the Italian National Trust.
The home has a large private garden with a swimming pool and tennis courts. Remember this is in the center of a large city! The villa is also filled with art, mostly 18th century, including artists Canaletto, Marieschi, and Tiepolo.
Look at the ceiling in the library! That design is a Portaluppi signature and you see it employed discreetly through out the villa.
I won't say anything to spoil the film for those who haven't seen it yet but one of the most important scenes in the movie takes place in this location.
The bathrooms were to die for. Again, I couldn't believe there were built in the 1930s. The veranda was another favorite room. The furniture was original and I could see those pieces being sold today. Even the utility rooms were design heaven. The Necchi family had custom Richard Ginori dinner service. I love the design of the "C" logo.
Style/fashion lovers will get a kick out of the sisters' built-in closets. The custom pieces from Gucci, Ferragamo, and Hermès are gorgeous. Quality and design like that never goes out of style.
The guides were very helpful, bilingual and there were two or three on each floor. I cannot recommend visiting this gem enough. My pictures and videos from this fantastic tour are in my Instagram highlights.
Buon weekend!
All villa photos: Giorgio Majno, © FAI — Fondo Ambiente Italiano
Life in Rome - My Post Milan Funk
I've been in a weird mood since returning from Milan the other week.I'm crashing from the Salone del Mobile high, Prince is dead, and I have a cold. I rarely get sick but when I do it seems as if my colds have a need to make up for lost time or something.When I went to the Salone two years ago this didn't happen. Something has changed in Rome and it's not for the better. I'm not the only one who feels this way. These articles, yesterday's New York Times and a piece my friend Michelle wrote for US and News Report in February, sum things up pretty well. Maybe I have cabin fever. Hopefully, tomorrow I will feel better and can leave my house!I have been to the Salone three times. The first time I stayed in a hotel near the Convention Center. The second time I rented an apartment in the city near the canals. Third time's a charm.Hotel prices are insane during the Salone (if you can find one). The Salone is larger than Fashion week and seventy percent of the people attending are visiting from other countries. The entire city takes part. If you're planning to attend, make reservations early. Many companies and vendors have blocked out rooms years in advance.I returned to the Principe after my great experience there in September. I still don't understand how the hotel was filled to capacity, yet I rarely saw any other guests on my floor. So quiet. The service at this hotel is impeccable despite its size. Plus, they have American bacon during breakfast.Renting an apartment while traveling on vacation is an excellent option but I've learned my lesson. When I'm working, a hotel is a better choice for me. Much better.I was running around Milan like a chicken with my head cut off and it was wonderful to return to a clean room, to have concierge service, a gym, a convenient place to have meetings, etc. Of course the cost was higher than the apartment I rented two years ago but my trip was more productive.And what a great trip...four intense days of meetings and visiting showrooms. I wish I had more time.I posted a few photos on Instagram and below are additional pictures from some of the highlights. I can't upload all the highlights as I forgot to take photos at the Ethimo party, and quite a few showrooms.
I Know There Is Beef Between Milano And Roma But...
I have to say I had a great time in Milano. I don't think I could live there with all the fog and smog. It's too cold during the winters (ten years in Los Angeles, has clearly thinned my blood) and too grey.The "rivalry" between Rome and Milan is similar to the one between San Francisco and Los Angeles. I swear when I hear Milanese talk about Rome it sounds like a person from San Francisco complaining about flaky Angelenos. Meanwhile many Angelenos say San Francisco is a fake New York and needs to get over itself.The vibe in Milan is completely different from Rome's. As a Milanese friend said to me once, "Milan is an European city. Rome is an Italian city."It's a smaller city, with Milan's city limits population at 1.3 million compared to Rome's 2.8 million. Milan is the business, fashion, media/advertising, and design capital of Italy and many international companies like Google and Sony base their Italian offices there.
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One thing that cracked me up was that every single cab driver (I took a lot of cabs thanks to the strikes. Sigh) told me they thought Rome was beautiful but could never drive there.
When people who drive for a living tell you a place has insane drivers, one must pay heed. One cab driver said, "Look at this traffic! See how we have lanes here and it's orderly? That doesn't happen in Rome." I learned to drive stick in Rome and had to agree with his observation.
I've often heard that the Milanese were not friendly. That wasn't my experience at all. Maybe everyone I met was in a good mood because of the Salone?
On Saturday morning I was looking for a textile showroom located on a small side street not far from the stock exchange. I couldn't get over how quiet it was. I felt like I was in NYC's Financial District. At 10:30 a.m. Rome is already crowded with tour buses and huge groups of tourists following a tour guide holding an stick/flag/umbrella.
When I saw Cattelan's (one of Italy's most famous contemporary artists) piece, I gasped. I could not imagine a work of art like that on Wall Street, especially as the finger is being given to us, the public. I thought it was a very astute comment on the financial meltdown of 2008. When it was unveiled many business people were not pleased but the mayor stood firm. It was only supposed to be there for a month. It might remain in its current location until 2013, then moved to a museum.
Next time I go to Milan, I hope I have time to see some art. And the Prada flagship store.
Buon Viaggio: Salone del Mobile 2012, Milano
This was the first time I've been in Milan for longer than 24 hours and only my second visit. I had a great, yet exhausting, trip.I do realize I saw the city at its most happening. I will write a separate post about Milan. I cannot wait to return.The Salone (April 17-22) is one of the most important and popular design exhibitions in the world.Over 300,000 people attend and there are events all over the city. Fiera Milano Rho was the main exhibit hall. It's massive. I was shocked at how organized everything was. It's not easy to put on an event of this scale.Listed below are a few of my favorite things from the Salone 2012.The bathroom and kitchen exhibitions at RHO:The Miele and Bosch cooking demonstrations.The Diesel/Scavolini kitchen collaboration.SMEG refrigerators with denim covers.In the Center:MERCI pop-up store - located in a courtyard off Via Tortona, the Parisian concept store was packed.Idarica Gazzoni - This Italian textile designer is one of my favorite artists. I love her use of color.Paola C. - The studio spotlights young international artists working in glass, ceramics, and metals. The Foxy pitcher won the Wallpaper Design Award in 2011.
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Boffi - I had no idea their bathroom line was so extensive. I could've stayed in the showroom for hours.
Dimore Studio - This interior, furniture and lighting design firm had one of the most beautiful spaces of the Salone. No photos were allowed. I saw some people sneaking shots anyway, which I thought was kind of rude.
Dedar - The firm where I interned used Dedar's fabrics frequently. Having the opportunity to visit the showroom was a highlight of my trip. Their Hermès collaboration is everything.
Alessi - The Piana chair designed by David Chipperfield.
I just got back yesterday and I'm still processing my trip. Now comes the downside of traveling, unpacking.