Where to Eat in Rome, Italy
Photo: Me and my iPhone
It’s still high season in Rome. The Historic Center is PACKED. I meant to write this post before the summer started but life was bananas (in a good way).
I’m asked all the time where to eat in Rome. Yes, it is possible to have a bad meal here. There are over 13,000 restaurants in Rome! I’m not talking about the kitchen having an off night. That happens everywhere but about the tourist traps. I walk by these places and they’re always crowded. How?
Rome/Lazio cuisine is in my top six following, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, Puglia, Sicily, and Tuscany. Visitors tell me they want to go where the locals go. However, no matter where you eat in the Historic Center there will be tourists. Here are a few places that locals go to (later at night and if they’re in town). These are places that I’ve been going to for years and/or regularly. You should make reservations, especially for dinner. In no particular order:
Cesere al Casaletto. One of my favorites. It’s way off the beaten path on the edge of Monteverde. You can take the 8 tram until the end of the line, then walk a few meters if you don't want to cab it. It’s completely on the other side of town for me but I will schlep over there. Until a few years ago, no tourists went there as it's in a nondescript building in a residential area. After several popular American Rome-based food bloggers wrote about it, the restaurant became more popular with tourists. I like to eat outside despite the busy road near by. The patio is covered with grape vines in the spring/summer. I was there over the summer with colleagues from Los Angeles. They raved about the food but were shook by the laid back service. If you’re in a hurry, this is not the restaurant to go to.
Pierluigi. Known for fish. Ordering off menu (esp. fish) could take your bill to the next level. Great place to go if you want to treat yourself/someone (or you have an expense account). I love sitting outside on the piazza. It’s beautiful. I used to live nearby on Via del Pellegrino and would stop by Pierluigi to meet up with friends just for an aperitivo at the pretty bar. It still has a neighborhood vibe despite the fact that it’s very popular with celebrities and diplomats.
In Testaccio there’s Flavio del Velavevodetto. Typical Roman cuisine. Interesting location. Known for their Amatriciana and Cacio e Pepe. Have heard mixed things about this place recently but some friends who live nearby still recommend it.
Armando al Pantheon - Delicious. It's always booked. It's one of the most popular restaurants in the Centro. Stanley Tucci featured it and now it's even more difficult to get a table. Try to book outside. The view!
Salumeria Roscioli - Located near Campo dei Fiori. The Amatriciana and Carbonara are among the BEST in Rome but service can be hit or miss.
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - This one I haven’t been to in a while. Last time I was there I had the Cacio e Pepe and it was so good. Big fan of the Saltimbocca too.
Bonci Pizza - pricey but very good. He has a stand in Centrale Mercato located in Termini train station and the tiny original is called Pizzarium near the Vatican museum. He opened a Bonci Pizza in the States. One in Chicago and one in Miami.
Marigold - Located in Otisense, this restaurant is also far from me. It’s close to one of my vendors so I always stop by before or after our meetings. It’s very seasonal and the baked goods are fantastic. Note: at the moment it’s opened for only breakfast and lunch.
Ciampini - The one in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. I tend to come here for coffee/breakfast, gelato, and aperitivo but they do have a solid menu. It’s more of a lunch spot vs dinner. Like Armando al Pantheon, it still draws locals in an area surrounded by touristy places. There’s one around the corner as well, near Fendi. I will go to that one in the winter sometimes.
Matricianella - Located near Ciampini, this is a great spot for classic Roman food. It’s gets very busy at dinner. There’s usually a wait.
I will post next month about where to have an aperitivo in Rome. That list will be longer. I cook at home, a lot. I don’t go out to eat for dinner that often because my friends here eat so late. Instead we will meet for aperitivo.