Where To Go In Rome
I’m not surprised by how crowded Rome is these days even though we’re months away from the height of the high season. My friends who work in hospitality here tell me that hotels are booked solid until November (!) with August pretty available. More restaurants and cafes are staying open during August in the Historic Center now. However, I still don’t recommend Rome in August, especially if it’s your first trip. It’s too hot and the locals who don’t work in tourism/hospitality clear out. Did I mentioned how hot it is?
I’m receiving so many emails and DMs regarding where to go/what to do in Rome. I wrote a post where to eat HERE and where to drink HERE.
Below are my suggestions:
The Galleria Villa Borghese. This is the museum I suggest people go to if they don't have time to visit the Vatican Museum (or even if they do). It's small. There’s a two hour limit. You have to make reservations and can do so online. The permanent collection is fantastic. It’s in a beautiful villa in one of Rome’s prettiest parks. I recommend spending time in Villa Borghese Park too.
Museum Palazzo Altemps - near Piazza Navona, unless a student group is on a field trip, this museum is rarely crowded. Tiny but interesting. Wrote about it HERE.
Outside of the Centro Storico is Montemartini. Very unique space. Wrote about it HERE.
Another favourite (and often overlooked) museum is Galleria Doria Pamphilj - get the audio tour. It’s narrated by a member of the family.
Museo dell Ara Pacis - The exhibits change but the altar created for Augustus, 9 BC, is upstairs. The building, designed by architect Richard Meier, was quite controversial as it’s one of the few newish/modern buildings in that area and people said it looked like an air conditioning unit.
Capitolini Museum - One of the oldest museums in the world, you will find a lot of history and pieces from Ancient Rome. The views from Piazza del Campidoglio, and the cafe of the museums, are great. This is where City Hall is located.
There are over nine hundred churches in Rome, some favorites:
San Clemente - it's worth the fee to go down to the ground level to see relics from when it was a pagan temple
Santa Maria del Popolo - the Caravaggios
Santa Maria in Trastevere - the mosaics
San Luigi dei Francesi - this is the French Catholic church in Rome. More Caravaggios
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere - located on the quieter side of Trastevere
Sant’ Agnese - in Piazza Navona
Santa Maria in Maggiore Basilica - that ceiling
Saint Peter's Basilica - note, there can be long security lines
San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane - this small church is a Borromini masterpiece and many people walk right by it
Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza - another Borromini masterpiece. Sometimes there are free concerts in the courtyard
Basilica Santa Anna Maria in Ara Coeli - located next to Piazza del Campidoglio (there are a lot of steps) this church is the church of Rome, Senatus Populusque Romanus. I went to a midnight Christmas Mass here and it was very moving.
Not a church but a cemetery. Cimitero Acattolico, also known as the Protestant Cemetery, is where many famous poets, artists, writers, etc., who were not Catholic and/or Italian are buried. The grounds are beautiful. Shelley himself said so and he was buried here after he drowned in the Bay of Lerici.
Of course:
The Trevi Fountain - gets crowded... go very early or late
Piazza Navona - the Bernini fountain!
Piazza Farnese - it’s very close to Pz Navona. Palazzo Farnese is the French Embassy and there are two pretty fountains in this piazza.
Views from the Giancolo HIll - The fountain is breathtaking too
Doria Pamphilj Park - Along with Villa Borghese, this is one of the largest parks in Rome
The Pantheon - get there early or before the cruise ship lines.
The Colosseum/The Forum - It’s a good idea to get a guided tour, especially for the Forum
The Old Jewish Quarter - Second only to Venice, this is one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world. Of the 1023 citizens deported to Auschwitz, only 16 survived. Keep an eye out for the Sampietrini stones covered with a brass plates with their names in front of their homes. This is where the infamous Turtle Fountain is located.
The View from the top of the Spanish Steps - on a clear day it’s quite pretty and I love the Bernini fountain at the bottom of the steps in Piazza di Spagna
Interesting neighborhoods outside the Centro Storico:
EUR - for the history and fascinating architecture. Read more HERE.
Garbatella - read more HERE.
Walk along Via Appia Antica. Car traffic is limited on Sundays to the few people who live on the Appia. Read more HERE.
SHOPPING:
Check out the stores on Via Babuino (high end) and in Monti (mid-to high). Both streets have clothing and design stores.
For design, Via Margutta has some great shops, like the store BLEND (which changed its name from Flair).
Chez Dede on Via Monserrato is wonderful and one of my favourite stores in Rome. The whole street is great for shopping.
Many of the international luxury brands, Prada. Gucci, etc. are on Via Condotti and its side streets.
It’s Christmas Time in Rome!
I love Rome this time of year. So festive.
Store windows aren’t a thing here like NYC, Paris, or London but there are plenty of street decorations. I’m happy to report that the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona is back and the Christmas Tree in Piazza Venezia is not a train wreck this year.
It’s a great time to visit. Book in advance though. The weeks between Christmas and Befana are popular and the Historic Center will be packed.
Work has been bananas but I did managed to take some photos this week after running errands for a client.
I’m trying to make more reels. Below is my latest attempt featuring a classic Christmas song.
Where to Eat in Rome, Italy
Photo: Me and my iPhone
It’s still high season in Rome. The Historic Center is PACKED. I meant to write this post before the summer started but life was bananas (in a good way).
I’m asked all the time where to eat in Rome. Yes, it is possible to have a bad meal here. There are over 13,000 restaurants in Rome! I’m not talking about the kitchen having an off night. That happens everywhere but about the tourist traps. I walk by these places and they’re always crowded. How?
Rome/Lazio cuisine is in my top six following, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, Puglia, Sicily, and Tuscany. Visitors tell me they want to go where the locals go. However, no matter where you eat in the Historic Center there will be tourists. Here are a few places that locals go to (later at night and if they’re in town). These are places that I’ve been going to for years and/or regularly. You should make reservations, especially for dinner. In no particular order:
Cesere al Casaletto. One of my favorites. It’s way off the beaten path on the edge of Monteverde. You can take the 8 tram until the end of the line, then walk a few meters if you don't want to cab it. It’s completely on the other side of town for me but I will schlep over there. Until a few years ago, no tourists went there as it's in a nondescript building in a residential area. After several popular American Rome-based food bloggers wrote about it, the restaurant became more popular with tourists. I like to eat outside despite the busy road near by. The patio is covered with grape vines in the spring/summer. I was there over the summer with colleagues from Los Angeles. They raved about the food but were shook by the laid back service. If you’re in a hurry, this is not the restaurant to go to.
Pierluigi. Known for fish. Ordering off menu (esp. fish) could take your bill to the next level. Great place to go if you want to treat yourself/someone (or you have an expense account). I love sitting outside on the piazza. It’s beautiful. I used to live nearby on Via del Pellegrino and would stop by Pierluigi to meet up with friends just for an aperitivo at the pretty bar. It still has a neighborhood vibe despite the fact that it’s very popular with celebrities and diplomats.
In Testaccio there’s Flavio del Velavevodetto. Typical Roman cuisine. Interesting location. Known for their Amatriciana and Cacio e Pepe. Have heard mixed things about this place recently but some friends who live nearby still recommend it.
Armando al Pantheon - Delicious. It's always booked. It's one of the most popular restaurants in the Centro. Stanley Tucci featured it and now it's even more difficult to get a table. Try to book outside. The view!
Salumeria Roscioli - Located near Campo dei Fiori. The Amatriciana and Carbonara are among the BEST in Rome but service can be hit or miss.
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - This one I haven’t been to in a while. Last time I was there I had the Cacio e Pepe and it was so good. Big fan of the Saltimbocca too.
Bonci Pizza - pricey but very good. He has a stand in Centrale Mercato located in Termini train station and the tiny original is called Pizzarium near the Vatican museum. He opened a Bonci Pizza in the States. One in Chicago and one in Miami.
Marigold - Located in Otisense, this restaurant is also far from me. It’s close to one of my vendors so I always stop by before or after our meetings. It’s very seasonal and the baked goods are fantastic. Note: at the moment it’s opened for only breakfast and lunch.
Ciampini - The one in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. I tend to come here for coffee/breakfast, gelato, and aperitivo but they do have a solid menu. It’s more of a lunch spot vs dinner. Like Armando al Pantheon, it still draws locals in an area surrounded by touristy places. There’s one around the corner as well, near Fendi. I will go to that one in the winter sometimes.
Matricianella - Located near Ciampini, this is a great spot for classic Roman food. It’s gets very busy at dinner. There’s usually a wait.
I will post next month about where to have an aperitivo in Rome. That list will be longer. I cook at home, a lot. I don’t go out to eat for dinner that often because my friends here eat so late. Instead we will meet for aperitivo.
Guest Blogging at Browsing Italy about Salina, Sicily
The lovely Diana asked me if I could write about my trip to the island of Salina for her "Show and Tell" series on her blog Browsing Italy.My post is HERE.
I had a great time in Salina. The minute the ferry pulled into Salina's port, I forgot about the long journey to get there. It's a beautiful island.Thanks, Diana!