Where to Eat in Rome, Italy
Photo: Me and my iPhone
It’s still high season in Rome. The Historic Center is PACKED. I meant to write this post before the summer started but life was bananas (in a good way).
I’m asked all the time where to eat in Rome. Yes, it is possible to have a bad meal here. There are over 13,000 restaurants in Rome! I’m not talking about the kitchen having an off night. That happens everywhere but about the tourist traps. I walk by these places and they’re always crowded. How?
Rome/Lazio cuisine is in my top six following, Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, Puglia, Sicily, and Tuscany. Visitors tell me they want to go where the locals go. However, no matter where you eat in the Historic Center there will be tourists. Here are a few places that locals go to (later at night and if they’re in town). These are places that I’ve been going to for years and/or regularly. You should make reservations, especially for dinner. In no particular order:
Cesere al Casaletto. One of my favorites. It’s way off the beaten path on the edge of Monteverde. You can take the 8 tram until the end of the line, then walk a few meters if you don't want to cab it. It’s completely on the other side of town for me but I will schlep over there. Until a few years ago, no tourists went there as it's in a nondescript building in a residential area. After several popular American Rome-based food bloggers wrote about it, the restaurant became more popular with tourists. I like to eat outside despite the busy road near by. The patio is covered with grape vines in the spring/summer. I was there over the summer with colleagues from Los Angeles. They raved about the food but were shook by the laid back service. If you’re in a hurry, this is not the restaurant to go to.
Pierluigi. Known for fish. Ordering off menu (esp. fish) could take your bill to the next level. Great place to go if you want to treat yourself/someone (or you have an expense account). I love sitting outside on the piazza. It’s beautiful. I used to live nearby on Via del Pellegrino and would stop by Pierluigi to meet up with friends just for an aperitivo at the pretty bar. It still has a neighborhood vibe despite the fact that it’s very popular with celebrities and diplomats.
In Testaccio there’s Flavio del Velavevodetto. Typical Roman cuisine. Interesting location. Known for their Amatriciana and Cacio e Pepe. Have heard mixed things about this place recently but some friends who live nearby still recommend it.
Armando al Pantheon - Delicious. It's always booked. It's one of the most popular restaurants in the Centro. Stanley Tucci featured it and now it's even more difficult to get a table. Try to book outside. The view!
Salumeria Roscioli - Located near Campo dei Fiori. The Amatriciana and Carbonara are among the BEST in Rome but service can be hit or miss.
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - This one I haven’t been to in a while. Last time I was there I had the Cacio e Pepe and it was so good. Big fan of the Saltimbocca too.
Bonci Pizza - pricey but very good. He has a stand in Centrale Mercato located in Termini train station and the tiny original is called Pizzarium near the Vatican museum. He opened a Bonci Pizza in the States. One in Chicago and one in Miami.
Marigold - Located in Otisense, this restaurant is also far from me. It’s close to one of my vendors so I always stop by before or after our meetings. It’s very seasonal and the baked goods are fantastic. Note: at the moment it’s opened for only breakfast and lunch.
Ciampini - The one in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. I tend to come here for coffee/breakfast, gelato, and aperitivo but they do have a solid menu. It’s more of a lunch spot vs dinner. Like Armando al Pantheon, it still draws locals in an area surrounded by touristy places. There’s one around the corner as well, near Fendi. I will go to that one in the winter sometimes.
Matricianella - Located near Ciampini, this is a great spot for classic Roman food. It’s gets very busy at dinner. There’s usually a wait.
I will post next month about where to have an aperitivo in Rome. That list will be longer. I cook at home, a lot. I don’t go out to eat for dinner that often because my friends here eat so late. Instead we will meet for aperitivo.
Rome Report – What’s In Season At The Farmers Market?
Buongiorno!
It’s good to be home. I do miss my family, the beaches, and the warm baguettes, of course but three months is a long time to be away.
One thing I love most about living in Italy is grocery shopping. Yes, that’s correct. When I lived in Los Angeles, I had business lunches and dinners almost every weekday (and some weekends). When I did cook, I would think about what I wanted to make and then go to the Gelson’s in my neighborhood or to Bristol Farms and buy what I needed.
I was a big fan of the Santa Monica Farmers’ market and maybe one or two Saturdays a month I would hop on The 10 and pay $30 for three green peppers. The produce was outstanding but very expensive. The market was open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.
When I moved to Rome and found the Trionfale Market I couldn’t get over the quality of the ingredients (Santa Monica level) and how reasonably priced it was. One third to half of what I was paying in Campo dei Fiori’s market. I do have excellent supermarkets in my neighborhood but I buy all my produce and occasionally meat and fish at the market. My meat consumption plummeted once I move to Italy. I eat more grains and vegetables now, it’s easier here. I don’t miss the meat and when I do buy it, I know where it’s coming from. Meat is definitely more expensive here than in the States. It’s a once a week thing or maybe once every other week.
I had to completely rethink how I cook and shop for food after I moved here. One day I wanted to make a broccoli frittata. I cannot tell you why I was fixated on that dish that weekend but I wrote out my little list and off to the market I went.
I got to Trionfale and there was no broccoli to be found. It wasn’t in season. I was thrown! One vendor told me I could probably buy some at a supermarket but he warned me that it wouldn’t taste that great. Now, I have a better sense of what’s in season. I do cook “international” foods as well but even then; I try to keep it seasonal. I know my palate has changed since I've moved to Rome. For example, I used to eat tomatoes all the time that had no flavor. I spent my formative years in New Jersey. I know good tomatoes. My dad used to grow them in our vegetable garden yet, there I was buying tomatoes that tasted like cardboard. Never again! Even the out of season supermarket tomatoes here tastes better.
I’ve been gone a while so I was very curious to see what currently was in season. I went to the Mercato Flamino II.
Look at these beauties!
Puntarelle found only during the winter. The salad, made with garlic and anchovies, is very Roman (and very good).
This neighborhood is east of mine. It’s a bit of a walk but not as far as Trionfale. I usually go to Trionfale if I need to see my butcher. There’s a great butcher closer to me but we call them Diamonds.
These markets are open six days a week Monday – Saturday. There are two small ones very close to my house or I can go to the bigger ones in Trieste, Prati, or near Termini.
The market by Circo Massimo (open on weekends) is outstanding. That market is local. Farmers and food from this region only.
Buon weekend a tutti!
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 4 - Ortigia's Farmers Market
I kept bumping into Erica and her parents at the market.We do have great markets in Rome but the market in Ortigia is on another level. I think it's because the food doesn't have far to travel. The freshness and variety is unreal.I'm still going on and on to Erica about the peaches I had. I'm sure she's tired of hearing about them.I didn't buy any fish but I did eat my share from the market. I'm still talking about that too.A MUST is the shop, Fratelli Burgio, located near the end of the market closest to the sea. It gets very crowded so be patient. I hear they have fantastic sandwiches and aperitivi. The line for sandwiches was long and there was only one person behind the counter. Poor guy.I bought some Pachino sun dried tomatoes in olive oil there. At thirty-two euros a kilo they were not cheap but were worth every single euro.A bowl of said tomatoes. Pachino tomatoes are grown only on the Southeastern coast of Sicily.
The fishmongers were quite lively (and flirty). I was too shy to snap a photo of the very attractive gentleman who called me Ms. New York.
Baked ricotta cheese at Fratelli Burgio.
Photos: Me with my iPhone