Io Adoro - Chez Dédé
I've written about Wonderfool the spa and concept store before. One thing I really like about Wonderfool is how they highlight Iocal artisans.A few weeks ago there was an aperitivi at the store and several of the designers were there.I had a chance to speak with the très chic Daria Reina the Creative Director of Chez Dédé, a French-Italian label. She and her partner Andrea Ferolla started the company a few years ago. Inspiration struck the luxury goods communications consultant and the art director while they were on the island of St. Barths.At Wonderfool they sell only their bags, but Chez Dédé also makes scarves and bracelets. Their scarves for men, Les New Yorkaises, would be perfect for my boyfriend, if I had one. The colors are striking and I hope they start to design some for us ladies as well.Each bag is name for an island or a beach they have visited. One of the newest editions is their Grand Tour bag. It's sporty and sophisticated. I LOVE it. It's a perfect bag for a longer trip. You can fill it with mementos of your journey.Another addition to the collection is the Taormina bag. Made with a stunning Sicilian red, this bag inspires me to book a trip to Sicily pronto.
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The craftsmanship is remarkable. Not only are these bags gorgeous, they are well made. Daria said it was important to her and her partner to make the bags in Italy. I'm sure Chez Dédé would make a lot more money producing the bags elsewhere. I appreciate their commitment to pay artisans well.
I'm not completely anti-fast fashion, but I'm doing my best to avoid it. I'd rather own a few things of excellent quality than buy a bunch of things from Zara/H&M/Top Shop that fall apart after two washings. Also, I have the worst figure for fast fashion. What looks cool on my thin and/or tall friends looks, well, cheap on me.
I adore these bags and not just because I'm an Island Girl myself. They are very "Stylish Simplicity".
I was telling one of my friends that I couldn't decide which one to get. One of the bigger totes (Ciao Portofino! Bonjour Cap Ferrat!) or the cute smaller Salina one? I will decide after my birthday next month.
A Day Of Upsets.
Italy upsets Germany.Justice Roberts surprises many.Nadal is out.There was major celebrating in Rome last night.Mario Balotelli was on fire. Love this photo of him and his mom.
Officina Slowear - Preppy Chic Italian
I was invited to the Rome store opening, co-hosted by Monocle magazine, of this Milan based company. I went with my partner in fashion and art crime, Erica. We had an excellent time (and some prosecco).This men's store is fantastic. I wanted to check out Officina Slowear before bringing my client, Coach G. I thought he would like it. He did and we found some great pieces. Over the weekend I saw him wearing the polo shirt he bought and he was rocking it. Riccardo, the store manager, was super helpful and even gave Coach G a book as a gift.
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Officina Slowear is preppy chic meets Italian style and tailoring. The clothes are cut slim and made with high quality materials. Price wise, they're mid-range, more expensive than J. Crew but less expensive than a store like Kiton.Slowear has a few international stores... London, Seoul, and Paris. I think they're opening a store soon in Mexico City and you can find some of their clothes at Barneys in the United States.The store also carries interesting books and accessories. If you're looking for causal clothes with style, this is the place.Officina SlowearVia di Campo Marzo, 73Rome, Italy+(39) 06 925 95 839
Io Adoro - Wonderfool, A Spa/Concept Store In Rome
Filippo Cosmelli of IF Lifestyle Management suggested I check out Wonderfool when I asked him for some advice regarding one of my personal shopping clients.Prospero Di Veroli, a former advertising executive on Madison Avenue, has created a beautiful space dedicated to well-being and style.I've heard people rave about the spa services. Originally the store was a men's boutique and spa. In 2009 Wonderfool began to offer spa services to female clients as well. While the décor has a luxurious, understated masculine vibe, the prices for the spa are moderate.
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Prospero has a brilliant eye and finds interesting things to sell in Wonderfool. I like that he champions unique artisan designers, like Natusko Toyofuku. Wonderfool is also the only store in Rome that sells Orlebar Brown swim trunks (Daniel Craig, in Casino Royale).The scarves by Rome-based Wilma Silvestri are gorgeous and made with vintage fabrics. I must buy one of the Chez Dédé totes. I will be writing a separate post about those. There is a tailor on site who makes made-to-measure suits and shirts.I'm so glad I "found" this store and look forward to bringing my clients to Wonderfool. However, I need to stay away because every time I walk in I buy something. This is a problem.WonderfoolVia dei Bianchi Nuovi, 3900186 Romewww.wonderfool.it
I Know There Is Beef Between Milano And Roma But...
I have to say I had a great time in Milano. I don't think I could live there with all the fog and smog. It's too cold during the winters (ten years in Los Angeles, has clearly thinned my blood) and too grey.The "rivalry" between Rome and Milan is similar to the one between San Francisco and Los Angeles. I swear when I hear Milanese talk about Rome it sounds like a person from San Francisco complaining about flaky Angelenos. Meanwhile many Angelenos say San Francisco is a fake New York and needs to get over itself.The vibe in Milan is completely different from Rome's. As a Milanese friend said to me once, "Milan is an European city. Rome is an Italian city."It's a smaller city, with Milan's city limits population at 1.3 million compared to Rome's 2.8 million. Milan is the business, fashion, media/advertising, and design capital of Italy and many international companies like Google and Sony base their Italian offices there.
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One thing that cracked me up was that every single cab driver (I took a lot of cabs thanks to the strikes. Sigh) told me they thought Rome was beautiful but could never drive there.
When people who drive for a living tell you a place has insane drivers, one must pay heed. One cab driver said, "Look at this traffic! See how we have lanes here and it's orderly? That doesn't happen in Rome." I learned to drive stick in Rome and had to agree with his observation.
I've often heard that the Milanese were not friendly. That wasn't my experience at all. Maybe everyone I met was in a good mood because of the Salone?
On Saturday morning I was looking for a textile showroom located on a small side street not far from the stock exchange. I couldn't get over how quiet it was. I felt like I was in NYC's Financial District. At 10:30 a.m. Rome is already crowded with tour buses and huge groups of tourists following a tour guide holding an stick/flag/umbrella.
When I saw Cattelan's (one of Italy's most famous contemporary artists) piece, I gasped. I could not imagine a work of art like that on Wall Street, especially as the finger is being given to us, the public. I thought it was a very astute comment on the financial meltdown of 2008. When it was unveiled many business people were not pleased but the mayor stood firm. It was only supposed to be there for a month. It might remain in its current location until 2013, then moved to a museum.
Next time I go to Milan, I hope I have time to see some art. And the Prada flagship store.
Buon Viaggio: Salone del Mobile 2012, Milano
This was the first time I've been in Milan for longer than 24 hours and only my second visit. I had a great, yet exhausting, trip.I do realize I saw the city at its most happening. I will write a separate post about Milan. I cannot wait to return.The Salone (April 17-22) is one of the most important and popular design exhibitions in the world.Over 300,000 people attend and there are events all over the city. Fiera Milano Rho was the main exhibit hall. It's massive. I was shocked at how organized everything was. It's not easy to put on an event of this scale.Listed below are a few of my favorite things from the Salone 2012.The bathroom and kitchen exhibitions at RHO:The Miele and Bosch cooking demonstrations.The Diesel/Scavolini kitchen collaboration.SMEG refrigerators with denim covers.In the Center:MERCI pop-up store - located in a courtyard off Via Tortona, the Parisian concept store was packed.Idarica Gazzoni - This Italian textile designer is one of my favorite artists. I love her use of color.Paola C. - The studio spotlights young international artists working in glass, ceramics, and metals. The Foxy pitcher won the Wallpaper Design Award in 2011.
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Boffi - I had no idea their bathroom line was so extensive. I could've stayed in the showroom for hours.
Dimore Studio - This interior, furniture and lighting design firm had one of the most beautiful spaces of the Salone. No photos were allowed. I saw some people sneaking shots anyway, which I thought was kind of rude.
Dedar - The firm where I interned used Dedar's fabrics frequently. Having the opportunity to visit the showroom was a highlight of my trip. Their Hermès collaboration is everything.
Alessi - The Piana chair designed by David Chipperfield.
I just got back yesterday and I'm still processing my trip. Now comes the downside of traveling, unpacking.
Anatomy Of A Bepoke Suit - The First Fitting
In an earlier post, I wrote about finding a tailor to make a suit for my client Coach G.On Friday he had his first fitting with Signor Marinuzzi.
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It's a fascinating process. I've never seen a suit made before. Back in the day, I made dresses, skirts, and one truly tragic jacket.
I appreciate the level of craftsmanship, talent, and time it takes to make a bespoke suit. I cannot wait to see it once it's finished.
Anatomy Of A Bespoke Suit - A Trip To A Sartoria
I recently started working with a new personal shopping client, Gerard, aka Coach G. One of his main objectives was to have a suit made.In the past I've worked only with women. Now I have learned more about mens' suits than I thought possible. There are so many details and decisions. Two buttons versus three buttons. Side vents versus center vents. The difference between how suits are cut in Europe versus America (Europe... slim, very slim).One great thing about living in Italy is, it's not difficult to find a sarto (tailor) who can make a suit by hand. The issue is, which one? Do you go with a local sarto or a store like Kiton, Brioni, or Rubinacci?
Bespoke suits are not cheap. They are an investment. Before paying between 1,900-15,000 + euros for a suit, do some homework.First, is it really bespoke or MTM (made-to-measure). There is a huge difference. With a bespoke suit the tailor is on sight. You have fittings with the person who is actually making your suit. A pattern is cut based on your measurements. The suit is made by hand not computerized machines. An excellent sarto will make a suit that fits your body perfectly.
MTM uses standard patterns. Once your measurements are taken, they are sent to the factory or a tailor offsite. MTM is good option for people who want to spend less than bepoke but want something that will fit better than RTW (ready-to-wear).If someone tells you that your suit is bespoke and the man who is making your suit is not there to see you in person, or the suit is not made by hand, then your suit is not bepoke and you shouldn't be paying bepoke prices.Second, get a referral and/or pull images of suits that you like worn by people who have a similar build to your own.One of my friends is married to a man who dresses impeccably. I asked her where he had his suits made and that is how I found Signor Marinuzzi.
I went to see him. He and wife do not speak a word of English. I told them about my client and what he was looking for. They showed me different fabrics and a suit in progress. I left believing Gerard would be in very good hands.Signor Marinuzzi makes suits for men and women. That's it. Only suits.Sartoria MarinuzziVia Alessandro Farnese, 12/A (zona Prati)Roma 06-3213903
Masseria, The Italian Farmhouses Of Puglia
My friend Elizabeth suggested I read this book. Elizabeth has written about design (among other things) for over twenty years, so when she tells me I should check out a book, a store, a designer, etc., I do it.MASSERIA, with text by architect Diane Lewis and photographs by Mark Roskams, is a fantastic book. Masserie are fortified farmhouses located in Puglia, the southeastern coast of Italy.They range in size. The materials are local, stone, concrete, iron, and brick. Some were used as resting places for pilgrims traveling on Via Appia.Now many have been renovated, some into boutique hotels. The rest are working farms, passed down through the generations. Puglia is an area of Italy that doesn't see many American tourists. The majority are Italians and Europeans.I haven't made it down to Puglia yet (it's on my list) but I really like the architecture. It's Stylish Simplicity. Rustic and elegant, some of these farmhouses date back to the Middle Ages.
There was also a practical reason to read MASSERIA. When I was in Anguilla over the Christmas holiday, I met with one of my clients' builders. He showed me a few of the houses he has built on the island.In the Caribbean many houses have stone or tile floors because of the climate. Some areas of Puglia have a flat landscape like Anguilla. I see a lot of simliarites in the materials, although wood is used more in the Caribbean. The use of the color white, a lot of white on the walls, interior and exterior, makes sense in both places as the sun is very strong.I've flagged several photos in this book. I'm loving the stone floors, the iron bed posts, and the use of color. It's good to see how these unique spaces were allowed to keep their integrity while being modernized.If everything goes to plan, the house in Anguilla will be done next year. In the meantime, I'm putting together my library/inspiration board for the project. MASSERIA will be one of the books I refer to again and again.I would recommend this book to anyone who is interested in design, Italy, and/or traveling to Puglia.