Anatomy Of A Bepoke Suit - The First Fitting
In an earlier post, I wrote about finding a tailor to make a suit for my client Coach G.On Friday he had his first fitting with Signor Marinuzzi.
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It's a fascinating process. I've never seen a suit made before. Back in the day, I made dresses, skirts, and one truly tragic jacket.
I appreciate the level of craftsmanship, talent, and time it takes to make a bespoke suit. I cannot wait to see it once it's finished.
Million Dollar Decorators Airs In Italy
The Bravo show recently started playing in Italy on SKY Cable, channel 124 on Thursday nights.I read about the show before it premiered in the States. Many wondered if a show with decorating budgets in the millions would appeal to the public during a recession.I think they picked a great "cast." Some of the decorators' comments had me on the floor.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2H2a4BBUCU&w=640&h=360]"Decorating is totally delicious." I agree Mr. Bullard."Sometimes, I think my job is more important than the President of the United States." "That goes without saying." I can't figure out if Jeffrey Alan Marks is just playing to the camera. (A friend who's a set designer said he is. She adores him and said he's very talented)."I have clients all over the world and I don't get out of bed for less than a million dollars." Do your thing Ms. Ireland.All reality shows have a villain, but this one (so far) doesn't seem to have one. The designers all know each other. Some are closer than others, but it's nice to see a lack of back stabbing in such a competitive field.A few of the clients don't come across as well. Like the one woman who said upon meeting Kathryn that she had a MBA and a law degree so how hard could interior design be? She quickly changed her mind after spending over $500,000 shopping in Europe only to realize she had no idea where to put anything.Bullard client Joe Francis, the CEO of that wonderful contribution to society "Girls Gone Wild", has a 13 million dollar estate in Mexico. The way he spoke to his household staff was out of control. Perhaps he forgot the cameras were rolling? Did he think was okay to use that tone because they're Mexican? I had some L.A. flashbacks listening to him treat people like dirt. Like the Countess from RHONYC said, "Money can't buy you class."What do you think of Million Dollar Decorators?
Anatomy Of A Bespoke Suit - A Trip To A Sartoria
I recently started working with a new personal shopping client, Gerard, aka Coach G. One of his main objectives was to have a suit made.In the past I've worked only with women. Now I have learned more about mens' suits than I thought possible. There are so many details and decisions. Two buttons versus three buttons. Side vents versus center vents. The difference between how suits are cut in Europe versus America (Europe... slim, very slim).One great thing about living in Italy is, it's not difficult to find a sarto (tailor) who can make a suit by hand. The issue is, which one? Do you go with a local sarto or a store like Kiton, Brioni, or Rubinacci?
Bespoke suits are not cheap. They are an investment. Before paying between 1,900-15,000 + euros for a suit, do some homework.First, is it really bespoke or MTM (made-to-measure). There is a huge difference. With a bespoke suit the tailor is on sight. You have fittings with the person who is actually making your suit. A pattern is cut based on your measurements. The suit is made by hand not computerized machines. An excellent sarto will make a suit that fits your body perfectly.
MTM uses standard patterns. Once your measurements are taken, they are sent to the factory or a tailor offsite. MTM is good option for people who want to spend less than bepoke but want something that will fit better than RTW (ready-to-wear).If someone tells you that your suit is bespoke and the man who is making your suit is not there to see you in person, or the suit is not made by hand, then your suit is not bepoke and you shouldn't be paying bepoke prices.Second, get a referral and/or pull images of suits that you like worn by people who have a similar build to your own.One of my friends is married to a man who dresses impeccably. I asked her where he had his suits made and that is how I found Signor Marinuzzi.
I went to see him. He and wife do not speak a word of English. I told them about my client and what he was looking for. They showed me different fabrics and a suit in progress. I left believing Gerard would be in very good hands.Signor Marinuzzi makes suits for men and women. That's it. Only suits.Sartoria MarinuzziVia Alessandro Farnese, 12/A (zona Prati)Roma 06-3213903
Happy Birthday, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe
Mies van der Rohe, one of the titans of modern architecture, was born 126 years ago today.If you went on Google today, you saw their homage to Mies van der Rohe.Known for his "less is more" style, after his death, many postmodernists blamed him for the soulless "international design" that became popular.The thing is, simple is hard to get right. All those Mies van der Rohe knockoffs were just that, knockoffs.I know this chair is EVERYWHERE, but I love the lines of the Barcelona chair. It's modern design, but I've seen the chair work in non-contemporary settings as well
The Guardian has a great article regarding how the reputation of Mies van der Rohe has completely changed since his death in 1986.I didn't know that the Barcelona chair was never intended for production. A stainless steel one will set you back $7740.I can't even imagine what an original version goes for.
It's Easy Being Green*
Masseria, The Italian Farmhouses Of Puglia
My friend Elizabeth suggested I read this book. Elizabeth has written about design (among other things) for over twenty years, so when she tells me I should check out a book, a store, a designer, etc., I do it.MASSERIA, with text by architect Diane Lewis and photographs by Mark Roskams, is a fantastic book. Masserie are fortified farmhouses located in Puglia, the southeastern coast of Italy.They range in size. The materials are local, stone, concrete, iron, and brick. Some were used as resting places for pilgrims traveling on Via Appia.Now many have been renovated, some into boutique hotels. The rest are working farms, passed down through the generations. Puglia is an area of Italy that doesn't see many American tourists. The majority are Italians and Europeans.I haven't made it down to Puglia yet (it's on my list) but I really like the architecture. It's Stylish Simplicity. Rustic and elegant, some of these farmhouses date back to the Middle Ages.
There was also a practical reason to read MASSERIA. When I was in Anguilla over the Christmas holiday, I met with one of my clients' builders. He showed me a few of the houses he has built on the island.In the Caribbean many houses have stone or tile floors because of the climate. Some areas of Puglia have a flat landscape like Anguilla. I see a lot of simliarites in the materials, although wood is used more in the Caribbean. The use of the color white, a lot of white on the walls, interior and exterior, makes sense in both places as the sun is very strong.I've flagged several photos in this book. I'm loving the stone floors, the iron bed posts, and the use of color. It's good to see how these unique spaces were allowed to keep their integrity while being modernized.If everything goes to plan, the house in Anguilla will be done next year. In the meantime, I'm putting together my library/inspiration board for the project. MASSERIA will be one of the books I refer to again and again.I would recommend this book to anyone who is interested in design, Italy, and/or traveling to Puglia.
Tom Ford's Stylish Simplicity At The Oscars
This Tom Ford dress is not an easy look to pull off. With a dress this "simple" the tailoring has to be impeccable and the accessories must be on point. That cuff!There are no bells and whistles to distract the eye. It's a formal gown, yet the dress looks comfortable. The cape was a daring and practical choice. It was chilly that day in Los Angeles.Gwyneth was mentioned on many Oscar Best Dressed lists and I agree.She said in several interviews that this was the only dress she tried on. Gwyneth was inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy's 1961 Inaugural gown which was made by Bergdorf Goodman's Ethel Frankau.Perfection.
