Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun
The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.
Michelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point. However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes. We took it.It was great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town. The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day. It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday. Our day trip was the perfect time to go. It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.
Montepuclciano has a population of about 14,000. It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.
As you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town. Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square. The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511. The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.
We ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano. We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria. The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee. Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do. These views are worth the price
I must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio. The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - Palazzo Reale, Naples, Italy
The Royal Palace of Naples is a must on my list of things to do in Naples. I wasn't able to visit until my third trip and now I want to return just so I could spend more time there.The audio tour is interesting and informative. Palazzo Reale is one of four royal palaces in and near Naples. Construction, with prominent architect Domenico Fontana, started in the 17th century by the Spanish Viceroys initially as a home to host the visiting King of Spain. He never came (so rude!) and the palace eventually became the home of various rulers, including the Bourbons and the Savoys. The Kingdom of Naples was fought over by the French and Spain for centuries. At times the Kingdom included most of southern Italy, and Sicily.The Palace was expanded over the years. Napoleon's sister, Caroline, lived in the Palace with her husband Joachim Murat (aka the Dandy King) who was the King from 1808-1815.The building suffered extensive damage from bombing during WWII but was restored.Below is the main staircase. It was very cloudy and overcast when I arrived. I still gasped when I walked in and saw this space. Pictures do not do it justice.
View from the top of the stairs.
This ceiling is unreal.
Close up of another ceiling. Gorgeous.
This floor tho.
How nice to have your own theatre.
And your own chapel.
A less ornate space. Love the simplicity of this light fixture.
Love this ceiling too. I chuckle when I hear the color grey is too trendy so now it needs to be over. I disagree. It's a classic.
The ballroom.
It was starting to clear up as I walked out. There's a view of the sea from several of the rooms but it was hard to get a photo without the scaffolding. The gardens are not public but there is an interior courtyard with a fountain.
Photos: me and my iPhone
"See Naples and Die."
This is a phrase coined in the mid-1800s during the reign of the Bourbons. At the time Naples was the third most populous city in Europe after London and Paris. It was also one of the wealthiest.I prefer to agree with the original meaning of the phrase and not the "if you go to Naples you will die because it's so dangerous" image the city had for years.I first went to Naples in 2007 on a day trip during my second trip to Italy. I met the lovely Tracie P, then know as Tracie B. I don't believe that was almost eleven years ago! My last trip to Naples was with Erica in 2009. I thought it was four years ago at most.I cannot tell you how many people back then worried for my safety when I told them I was going to Naples. One friend said he hated the place as he was mugged literally five minutes after he walked out of the main train station. Naples was mentioned in the international press mostly for its pizza, the mafia, and a major garbage problem. During both trips I could count the number of American tourists on one hand. One famous guidebook said if Rome was overwhelming, don't go further south. Naples is Rome squared.I loved the energy of Naples during those early trips, even with the garbage situation. There's no place like it. It reminded me a little of pre-Disneyfied New York City.Not sure what the heck took me so long to return but I was shocked at the change. The city is cleaner than Rome. There are more American tourists. Fuelled in part by the popoluarity of the Ferrante book series, the international press is writing about the great things happening in Naples. Naples is "in". Are there still problems, yes. I recommend using the same precautions you would in any major, densely populated city. Leave the fancy watches, rings, etc at home or in your hotel safe.I wasn't as overwhelmed during this trip. It could be because I live in a walking city again whereas during my the first trip i was coming from Los Angeles where your car is a cocoon. I'd visited the archeological museum and Castel Nuovo on those trips. I wanted to see a few places I missed.My first stop was the Museo Capella Sansevero. You buy your ticket (€7) at the small nearby center/office . There was a long line to enter but it moved quickly. You cannot take any photos inside. It's not the easiest to find. It's on a small side street but my Google maps was on point.This is a church I would return to again, maybe in the dead of winter/off season so I could have more time to take it all in. I now understand why the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino is considered one of the most incredible sculptures in the world.I know this is all marble yet I have a hard time believing it.
Prince Raimondo di Sangro commissioned the young Sanmartino to create this work for his family's chapel. The Prince was a well-known alchemist and bold experimentalist. There are several other incredible works in the chapel inculding a poignant Pudicizia by Antonio Corradini, whose veiled female figure next to a cracked plaque, honors Raimondo's mother, Cecilia Gaetani d’Aquila d’Aragona. He was only 11 months old when she died.
There's a little room downstairs. Folks, once I descended down the narrow iron staircase I was shook. There are two skeletins, a man and a woman. They are encased in what looks like perfectly preserved human arterial systems. Over two centuries ago, Dr. Giuseppe Salerno from Palermo, along with the Prince, created theses anatomical works. There were/are all kinds of rumors as to how these bodies came to be. Word was that the Prince killed members of his staff, injecting them with liquid while they were still alive. Others said the arterial systems are reproductions. They are fascinating and creepy. No Google search for photos. Nope. Cannot. 
I got lost and went into many churches as I made my way to the restaurant Antica Osteria Pisano. Thanks for the suggestion, Gina. The restaurant is in the Historic Center on the cusp of the Forcella neightbhood. If you've watched the third season of GOMORRA you're familiar with this mural of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples.
I asked about the pasta of the day. It was Rigatoni alla Bolognese. I was skeptical about ordering this dish outside of Bologna but Gennaro (one of the owners) told me it was delicious. He was correct.I walked off my pasta getting lost on the way to Palazzo Reale. I had the palace on my list but never made it during my last two trips.I listened to the audioguide. I highly recommend it as the history of this palace is fascinating. The palace suffered some major damage during WWII but you can still get a sense of the wealth and presitage of the era.Located in Piazza del Plebiscito, the outside is understated. I was not prepared for this.
Or this.
I was overwhelmed by the beauty and will have to write a seperate post about the interiors and history of this palace.The seafront is very close to this piazza, just down the hill. I decided to walk along the sea on my way to the Chiaia neighborhood. A large section of the Lungamare is a car-free zone. This was started in 2012 and what a great idea. People, mostly locals, were out and about enjoying the sunny weather. There are plenty of caffes and restaurants
I didn't get to spend much time in the Chiaia area because I had to catch my return train. Chiaia is an upscale neighborhood where you find your luxury local shops and some of the international brands like Prada. I popped into a small enoteca, Belledonne, for a glass of wine. It was excellent and €6.I made my way to the closet Metro stop. I found the signage a little confusing but asked for directions.I took the fast Italo train. It's only an hour and usually there are great deals during the week for same day travel. I really need to spend more time in Naples.Photos: Me and my iPhone unless noted
Day Trip to Alberobello, Puglia
Happy New Year! I hope 2018 brings you much joy, peace, and happiness.I have read about and seen photos of the infamous trulli. Alberobello, which we visited during our Eat, Pray, Move, retreat, was packed with many American tourists even though it was late September. I can see why. There's nothing like it. This region is the only area in Italy that has these unique buildings and there's a concentration of them in Alberobello.The white, cone-roofed houses in Alberobello are a UNESCO World Heritage site. We had a great tour guide who explained the history of the trulli. There are many theories but the most popular one (and likely) is that during the 1600's the nobility imposed a high taxation on any permanent structure. The poor farmers built their houses so the roofs could be dismantled easily, by bascially removing one stone. Very clever.We were able to tour a trullo. It was incredible to learn some of them hosted whole families and their livestock. Other homes were comprised of several trulli with each one being a separate room.Our Masseria had several trulli on its property. I love how the architects incorporated them into the modern structures. Inspiring.
There are trulli with curious symbols on them. Some are clearly religious, the others? Another area for debate.
As you enter the main street of Alberobello, there are two hills. The one on your left is the old town/Historic Center and the main tourist street. It's filled with gift shops and places to eat/drink. There are a few shops selling items made locally. The other hill is more residential and the modern town. There are several piazzas with caffes, and butchers, clothing stores, etc. etc. The restaurant EVO, where I had one of the best meals ever, is located in a quiet corner near the Basilica. I wrote more about it for the Casa Mia Blog. Grazie, Erin for arranging this unforgettable meal and wine pairing.
I suggest spending time on both hills. Alberobello is tiny. The old town does have a bit of a Disneyland vibe but don't let that stop you. The view from the "new" town is spectacular.Alberobello was celebrating its Saint's Day. On the new hill everything was lit.
We were there on a raining cloudy day so my photos of the old town are not great. Here's a better one from zee Internets.
I took this one in the backyard of a trullo in the old town that was under renovation. 
These trulli were in the new town. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Life in Rome - Centrale Montemartini Museum, an Ancient and Modern Mix
This museum is not in the Historic Center but located in the dynamic and funky Ostiense neighborhood. It has been on my list for years and I finally visited it recently with my friend, Marta. We loved it.I saw a spread in American Vogue that had used the museum as a backdrop, so I thought I had an idea of what to expect.I was wrong. The museum is located inside a former power plant that was built in 1912. The plant closed during the early '60s. In 1997 the city used the abandoned space to temporarily house works from the Capitoline Museums, which were under renovation. Thankfully, the Cultural Minister had the idea to permanently convert the structure into a museum. Many of the pieces in the museum were excavated during the late 1900's and the 1930's.I found out after we left that I have personal connected to the museum. The Vignacce Marsyas piece was excavated during a 2009 dig in Villa delle Vignacce directed by my friend, Dr. Darius Arya. It's believed to have been the work of artisans from the early 2nd century. Thanks for the scoop, Erica!The space alone is worth a trip and the artwork inside is very interesting as well. I think this museum would appeal to young children too, especially if they’re into big machines.The museum was practically empty the afternoon we were there. We saw two artists sketching the mosaic floors and there was a small film crew setting up a shoot as we left. That’s it. Rome residents get a discounted ticket, so bring your I.D.It’s close to the one of the best pasty shops in Rome, Andreotti, and not far from a large EATALY. There’s excellent street art in the area. If you’re looking for something off the beaten path, this is museum is perfect. I've read some reviews from tourists who say the area is "sketchy." Perhaps this is the reason the museum is underrated? It's a shame as I think it's a good idea to get away from the crowds sometimes.
Via Ostiense 106Tel. +39 06 39967800Website www.centralemontemartini.orgOpen Tuesday to Sunday 9:00-19:00. Closed Mondays and some public holidays.Cash only.
Life in Rome - Day Trip to Spoleto
Ciao Bloggisti,Friends of mine recently bought a weekend place in Spoleto and invited me up for a day. It's about forty miles south east of Perugia.It was my first trip to Spoleto and I highly recommend a visit. The Historic Center is very charming with incredible views. I took a lot of photos. Below are a few.Ponte delle Torri - a 13th century aqueduct.One of the highlights for me. Next time I will bring a pair of sneakers or hiking shoes so I could walk further up the trail.
The Duomo - Santa Maria Assunta
More pictures of the Historic Center.
Basilica di Santa Gregorio Maggiore - consecrated in 1146.
Note: This is not a politics blog but the US election last week was not normal.The President Elect would like to commute to the White House, staying mostly in Trump Tower. I was not aware that being President of the most powerful country on the planet was a part-time gig. This would create a major logistical nightmare for the Secret Service and the NYPD. It would also be a headache for residents of the building and the surrounding area as blocks of a major street (5th Avenue) would have to be shut down.There's a silver lining. Trump may not have time or the desire to redecorate the White House. I was thinking of writing a separate post about this space:
SpoletoPhotos: Me and my iPhone Trump Living Room: iDesignArch
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Amsterdam
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from our intern, Ariella:Last week my classmates and I went to Amsterdam. My impression of the city upon arriving was very different to my expectations. The architecture reflects its history and age, serving as a unique backdrop for modern, urban life.
I had preconceived notions of what the relatively “young” culture/community of Amsterdam was like. While Amsterdam really is a young and vibrant city, we soon found out how the existing architectural exteriors are not allowed to change. There’s a strict limit on the height of buildings in order to preserve the density and aesthetic “look” of Amsterdam. This also gives the city the character of feeling small, manageable, and almost village like, easy to get around. We saw many bikers traveling through its beautiful streets, even during peak rush hour time. Amsterdam is very livable and feels “alive” with its diverse multicultural population whose art and ideas you see splashed all about town; on the walls, in the alleyways, in fairs and in performances. 
Amsterdam has become a city where all the people and their original works have connected the old character of the city to the new young ideas.
Life in Rome - Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps
For almost eight years I walked past Palazzo Altemps at least five times a week. I'm not sure why I waited so long to finally check it out.One Friday, during lunch time, I basically had the place to myself. True, it was the dead of winter but I was surprised.The Palazzo is very close to Piazza Navona and was built during the 1500s. Archaeologists have uncovered ancient Roman structures and artifacts from the 1st century AD, which are displayed on the first floor.Cardinal Marcus Sitticus Altemps acquired the palazzo from the Riario family in 1568. He greatly extended the palazzo to showcase the family's impressive art and and book collections. There are also many standout pieces from the Boncompagni Ludovisi, Mattei, del Drago Albani, and Brancaccio collectionsThis museum is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano which also includes the Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, and Terme di Diocleziano.There is free admission to the museums on the first Sunday of the month.Below are a few pictures I snapped during my tour: 
Palazzo Altemps is opened Tuesday - Sunday from 9.00 to 19.45.Closed Mondays (except Easter Monday and during the "Culture Week"), 1 January, 25 December.The Ticket Office closes one hour before closing time.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life In Rome - Palazzo Nardini
I've written before about my fascination with abandoned houses.On Via del Governo Vechhio there's an empty palazzo that I've walked by many times. Unlike some other big cities I've lived in, there are very few vacant buildings in the center of Rome. So much so that they truly stand out.One morning I noticed there were riot police at the end of the block. The doors of the building were opened and there was a large group of protesters inside. They were demanding that the county (which owns the property) renovate the space into affordable housing. I doubt that will happen given the location, red tape, and costs.Built in the late 1400s by Cardinal Stefano Nardiini, I had to check it out.
I had no idea that this building was so large.
I hope something wonderful happens with this space. It's a shame that it's just sitting there, empty.