A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region
The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy. I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.
We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro. Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate. Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work. During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.
Our lunch was excellent. Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate. On a design note, it was perfection. Great service too.
We decide to take a power walk before dinner. I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests. I don't know why boars freak me out. Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive? I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such. I know this is not logical.
During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged. We had a wonderful time. The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious. You never know with communal dining. I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit. Tears. Instead we went old school and played records. John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl. I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap. EW&F is one of my favorite bands. I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period. Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F. This person was also a black American Gen-Xer. I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo. It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance. Paradise.
During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.
We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend. It was delicious, and very pretty.
I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time. I adore this small hill town.
The first time I was there was during the dead of winter. This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off. However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit. We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town. The views were just ridiculous. Hello, is this real life?
The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.
Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi. It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi. Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom. I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003. He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.
We ate lunch in the entoeca. Outstanding. The service was incredible. As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.
The sun was trying to make an appearance.
Monteverdi is an unique experience. There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades. However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo. Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.
Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day. When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning. I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.
If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - My Trip to Pienza, Tuscany
Earlier I wrote about the interior design of La Bandita Townhouse. Clearly the owners, John and Ondine, have put as much thought into the service as they did into the décor.From the first email to book my room, until the day I left, the service was (as the young folks say) on fleek. This is something I do not take for granted. Unfortunately, too many people have no idea what it means to work in the hospitality business. Why they would open or work in a hotel/restaurant/spa, etc. is beyond me.Pienza is a small hilltop town with a population of approximately two thousand people. It was the birthplace of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, who would become Pope Pius II. Piccolomini rebuilt the entire village, starting in 1459, after he became Pope. He saw it as a lovely Renaissance retreat from the Papal capital. In 1996 Pienza was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site.It's a perfect base from which to explore this region of Tuscany (with a car). Montapluciano, Siena, and other towns are close by. If you're a Pecorino cheese fan, a visit to Pienza is a must.Since I was only staying for two nights, I didn't rent a car and spent most of my time close to the Townhouse. It was FREEZING. I'm not exaggerating. I haven't been that cold since my days at Syracuse University.I was elated to see these fire pits around town. I love how in this country even a simple and functional thing, like a fire pit, is well designed. I mean, look at the darn logs. Did the person who built the fire make sure they were "just so" or what? Also, as I said before, it was beyond freezing. Who has time to worry about aesthetics in sub-freezing weather? If the logs were janky, would the fire builder be called out?I truly appreciate this attention to details.
The views were spectacular. Sunset.
Sun rising. View as I started my epic walk three and a half-hour walk.
Remember this road from the movie GLADIATOR? No, I was not entertained. I was a little freaked out because I didn't see a single person for kilometers. I started to think, "what if a wild boar attacked me? Nobody could hear me scream. Where the heck is the next farm house?"
Seriously, NOBODY was around.
The top of this well, stylish simplicity.
Pieve dei Santi Vito e Modesto Church. It was built sometime during the 11th and 12th centuries. Notice the distinctive carvings above the door. Several of these small country churches were built above Etruscan sites and used some of the same imagery.
I had a fantastic dinner at the hotel, after I defrosted. The restaurant is open to the pubic (you need reservations). Chef David and his sous-chef, Jacopo, knocked it out of the park.
Martina pours some Prosecco.
During high season, Pienza is very popular with tour groups. This charming video about La Bandita and Pienza helps explain why.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rGyeJ1Z030A big Thank You to everyone at La Bandita. Sometimes it's not so easy to travel alone and they made me feel at home.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Townhouse - Pienza, Tuscany
I've read about La Bandita, a country house near Pienza and have seen photos of it in various shelter magazines/design articles.A little over a year ago, John Voigtmann and his wife Ondine Cohane opened La Bandita Townhouse converting a former convent in center of Pienza into a 12-room boutique hotel.My friend Gillian and husband stayed there recently. She told me I had to see it in person. Gillian knows my taste and said I would love it.She was correct. I know people are sick and tired of decorators using words like swoon! obsessed! and dying! when describing interiors. However, let me say, I swooned when I saw my room. I was obsessed with the design of the kitchen and was dying over the views.I've written before about the mix. It's something you see frequently in French and Italian interiors. It's not easy to pull off. Sometimes the space is too modern for the architecture and it feels cold. Or the design is so faithful to the past, it's dated.Working with Florence based architects, Arianna Pieri and Ernesto Bartolini of DA.Studio, John and Ondine have created a lovely space. In a hotel, all the beauty in the world doesn't mean a thing if the service is awful. It was fantastic and I will write about a post about that and Pienza soon.I absolutely adore this type of décor. The same architects worked on Monteverdi with interiors by Ilaria Miani.i found out that one of the main resources for La Bandita Townhouse was the store Barthel. No wonder it spoke to me as we sourced most of the items for the bathrooms in our Tuscany project from Barthel.This was my room, number 12. I arrived late afternoon. The amount of light during the day is unreal. I love that they retained the stone wall. The view from the tub was sick. The Ortigia products were a nice touch, as were the free water and soda in the mini-bar.In my next apartment I would like a canopy bed. The colors, the lighting, the bed linens, I really didn't want to leave this room after two days.I have to ask if they have a room with a desk, because La Bandita is a perfect spot for writers.
Tears of happiness when i saw this huge shower stall. I really need to move.
Gorgeous. The main hallway is the first thing you see when you walk thru the door. The convent dates from the 1400s.
Again, stone walls. A lot of natural materials with pops of orange throughout.
This kitchen is everything. In the States open-plan kitchens are preferred but not in Italy (or the Caribbean). Notice the overhead window over the bar? It drops down. Once you close the door on the left of the bar, you have a closed kitchen that lets in light. A friend of mine, who lives in a loft in Rome, did something very similar. It's a brilliant idea.
An old map of Italy in the library/lounge.
I was very excited to see so many classic LPs in different genres. I could've stayed up all night listening to music. I still have some vinyl and for my next apartment (I know, I know) I will buy a turntable.
You know how I feel about books and magazines. It was freezing outside. It was nice to curl up on the sofa and just chill.
John is former music industry executive. Some of his gold records sit on top of the bookcase.
Aperitivi time!
John has said he and Ondine wanted to create a beautiful, comfortable hotel where people could come to relax and enjoy Tuscany. They have. La Bandita is a special place. I cannot wait to return during warmer weather so I can eat outside on their fantastic terrace.Photos: (except for the one of the kitchen and of the bookcase) me and my iPhone.Click HERE to see more from La Bandita's great photo gallery.
La Bandita Townhouse
Hello 2015!
One of my friends asked me what my word is for 2015. Another asked about my resolutions. I've given both a great deal of thought.What I really need to do in 2015 is stop being a control freak. I'm driving myself (and my friends) crazy. While it's a good thing (especially in a detail orientated profession) to be very organized, I need to take it down a notch, okay, several.I'm not sure how I will achieve this goal but at least I have acknowledged this critical situation.So far 2015 is off to a great start. Yes, I do realize we're only two days in.Happy New Year!
Fireworks outside my window.
Pienza, Tuscany. La Bandita Townhouse.