A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region

The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site.   Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy.   I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.IMG_3158IMG_3160.jpgWe arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro.  Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate.  Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work.  During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.IMG_3136.jpg IMG_3149.jpgOur lunch was excellent.  Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate.  On a design note, it was perfection.  Great service too.IMG_3135.jpg IMG_3129.jpg IMG_3146.jpgWe decide to take a power walk before dinner.   I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests.  I don't know why boars freak me out.  Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive?  I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such.  I know this is not logical.IMG_3189.jpg IMG_3190.jpgDuring dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged.  We had a wonderful time.  The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious.  You never know with communal dining.  I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit.  Tears.  Instead we went old school and played records.  John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl.  I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap.  EW&F is one of my favorite bands.  I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period.  Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F.  This person was also a black American Gen-Xer.  I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo.  It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance.  Paradise.IMG_3257.jpgDuring my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.IMG_3260.jpgWe decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend.  It was delicious, and very pretty.IMG_3325I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time.  I adore this small hill town.IMG_3366.jpg IMG_3357.jpg IMG_3353.jpg IMG_3382.jpgThe first time I was there was during the dead of winter.  This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off.  However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit.  We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town.  The views were just ridiculous.  Hello, is this real life?IMG_3376.jpgThe next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.IMG_3421.jpg IMG_3439.jpg IMG_3441.jpgAnnalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi.  It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see MonteverdiIlaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom.  I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003.   He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.IMG_3496.jpg IMG_3482.jpg IMG_3485.jpg IMG_3499.jpg IMG_3492.jpg IMG_3487.jpgWe ate lunch in the entoeca.  Outstanding.   The service was incredible.  As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.IMG_3461.jpg IMG_3469.jpgThe sun was trying to make an appearance.IMG_3504.jpgMonteverdi is an unique experience.  There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades.  However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo.  Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.IMG_3503.jpgUnfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day.  When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning.  I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.IMG_3433.jpg IMG_3432.jpg IMG_3407.jpgIf some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone           

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A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily

Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal.  Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident.  I got lost constantly.  It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere.  This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man.  Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room.  It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views.  It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.IMG_9255.jpgI woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna.   IMG_8841.jpgIMG_9189.jpgIt got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before.  It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time.  I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.IMG_9209.jpgIMG_9215.jpgOf course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out.  IMG_9229.jpgIMG_9222.jpgIMG_9197.jpg IMG_8858.jpg IMG_9186.jpgIMG_9236.jpgIMG_9240.jpgIMG_9241.jpgGrazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation.  None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost.  What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner.  Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa.  It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view.  Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. IMG_9021.jpgIMG_9020.jpgIMG_9018.jpgNext, Modica.Had a slight fender bender.  It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled.  At least I wasn't driving a stick shift.   I thought Modica was beautiful as well.IMG_9094.jpgIMG_9081.jpgThree years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia.  I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli.  If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again.  Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out.  The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year!  The word is out. There were small tour buses.  The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related).  I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.IMG_9143.jpgIMG_9148.jpgDinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.IMG_9159.jpgBy time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off.  Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets.  Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada.  It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain.  I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain.  Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general.  I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North.  However, Sicily keeps calling me.  I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring.  The food and wine are incredible.  The people I've met made me feel at home.IMG_9076.jpgIMG_9146.jpgSicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.         

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