A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region
The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy. I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.
We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro. Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate. Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work. During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.
Our lunch was excellent. Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate. On a design note, it was perfection. Great service too.
We decide to take a power walk before dinner. I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests. I don't know why boars freak me out. Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive? I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such. I know this is not logical.
During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged. We had a wonderful time. The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious. You never know with communal dining. I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit. Tears. Instead we went old school and played records. John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl. I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap. EW&F is one of my favorite bands. I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period. Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F. This person was also a black American Gen-Xer. I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo. It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance. Paradise.
During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.
We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend. It was delicious, and very pretty.
I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time. I adore this small hill town.
The first time I was there was during the dead of winter. This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off. However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit. We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town. The views were just ridiculous. Hello, is this real life?
The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.
Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi. It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi. Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom. I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003. He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.
We ate lunch in the entoeca. Outstanding. The service was incredible. As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.
The sun was trying to make an appearance.
Monteverdi is an unique experience. There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades. However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo. Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.
Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day. When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning. I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.
If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Countryhouse
My apologies for the radio silence. Work has been bonkers. One of my clients moved back to the States. She was a high-ranking diplomat and her term was up. We needed to organize a major international move for someone who had lived in Rome for quite some time.My trip to La Bandita was the weekend after her move was finished. The timing was perfect. I was completely wiped out.I've been to the Townhouse and was curious about the Countryhouse after reading about it in design magazines. When Annalee invited me to join her, she didn't have to ask twice.
We met at the Chiusi train station and rented a car. Thankfully, Annalee did most of the driving as the two times I've rented a car in Italy I've received a speeding ticket. I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and drove pretty much every single day. I never received a speeding ticket (or any ticket for that matter). NEVER. I really don't understand why I got tickets in Sicily and Tuscany given I was trying to keep up with the flow of traffic. Sorry, I digress.I keep hearing Tuscany is over. Those people are on drugs. Are there some areas that are packed with tourists? Yes, but Tuscany is a large region. There's no reason to write off the entire area.The Val d'Orcia is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been to in Italy. My next post will be about what we did and where we went.Today, I'm focusing on the interior design. I've seen my share of "Tuscan" interiors. Too often there are extremes, either super modern, stripping all the character out of these older homes or too traditional, creating a space that reminds you of the Addams Family's house.Owners Ondine Cohane and John Voightmann, with their architects Ernesto Bartolini and Arianna Pieri of DA Studio in Florence, have a created a contemporary space that is warm, airy, and feels Tuscan. That last quality is so difficult to get right especially in an era of cookie cutter interior design (in part because every city has the same chain stores). Are there elements of the design that would feel at home in say, Miami or the Caribbean? Absolutely. The La Bandita team worked closely with local artisans and used natural materials found in the area. All these pieces came together to create a space that could only be in Tuscany.This article, written by Ondine, is about the how and why John and Ondine opened the Country House.
Annalee and I stayed in The Pigsty Suite. Yes, this independent apartment (just a few meters from the main house) used to be the pigsty.
My pictures don't do it justice. It was perfection. We had our own little patio. The views from our "backward" were breathtaking. The bathroom was immaculate. I have a thing about cleanliness in general and it's taken to another level regarding kitchens and bathrooms.The bathroom was huge and I loved having a shower next to the big picture window. I felt like I was taking a shower outdoors but without the risk of being attacked by wild boars. Seriously, these darn boars are no joke. Annalee and I went jogging before dinner and other guests told us they saw a family of boars right after they passed us on the road. No grazie.
The check in desk/reception is in the main quasi-open planned room with the kitchen and dining areas. There is a lounge/library area with a great selection of books.
My personal hotel tastes lean toward simple but sophisticated interiors. Some might find the bedrooms too minimalist but for me they let the architecture and views shine. The rooms are relaxing and calm which is what I want in a hotel room.
I can see how this hotel may not work for a solo traveler or anti-social couples as the dining space is communal. Bandita Countryhouse would be perfect for a group to rent the entire space.It's truly off the beaten path so I'm glad we arrived during the day. The unpaved road leading to the property is steep but worth it for the 360 views.
While technically it is a boutique hotel, the vibe at La Bandita Countyhouse is more your friend's very chic country house in Tuscany. I am here for it. The hospitality and food were wonderful. John, Ondine, Dario, Elena, Paola, Marco, and the cat (I didn't catch its name) made us feel at home.I had a great time. So much so that I'm willing to deal with the drama of driving a car in Italy again.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.La Bandita CountryhousePodere La BanditaPienza (SI) 53026Toscana, ItaliaTel +39–333–404–6704Fax +1–212–202–6222website