The Dog Days Of Summer
Am I the only person who finds it difficult to work when it's blazing hot and there's no a/c?Earlier in the week it was so bad, I felt nauseous all day. I couldn't take it anymore and on Thursday went out to Santa Marinella for a day trip. Finally, some relief.
I have never been during high season. It was packed.My favorite restaurant was closed so I tried L'Acqua Marina which my friend Elizabeth likes. The food was delicious and the view wasn't too bad either.
I think there are more tourists in town this August. That is great news for the economy. Not such great news if you are a local stuck in Rome. Almost everything non touristy (e.g. dry cleaners, newsstand, favorite restaurants) is closed. It's the worst of both worlds. I don't get to enjoy "quiet Rome" because my area is packed with tourists.The majority of my friends are out of town for weeks. Many of my American expat friends to go the States to see family and my Italian friends are traveling all over.Plus it's too bloody hot to do anything outside from 9:30 a.m. to about 5:30 p.m.I know I say it (I need to get out of Rome in August) every year, but this summer broke the camel's back. A law was passed recently allowing places that serve "food" to stay open as late as they want instead of closing at 2:00 a.m. So now the obnoxious bar across my very narrow street, has drunk tourists singing/fighting/yelling until 5:00 a.m.Even with my windows shut and a fan going I can hear these fools. I don't think I will be able to move to a new apartment when my contract is up next year, but I will rent a place in the mountains or by the sea next summer. I am so done.No sleep + 100 degree temperatures = one cranky person.How do you cope with the heat?
I Libri: Summers In France by Kathryn M. Ireland
Summers In France is a fabulous read.Along with photos of gorgeous interiors, there are recipes, tips on how to be a gracious hostess and guest, and information about the amazing markets near Ms. Ireland's summer home in the Tarn-et-Garonne region of Southwestern France.I really appreciated the before and after photos. Ms. Ireland has taken a rundown farm house and turned it into a wonderful home.If you've seen Ms. Ireland on the show "Million Dollar Decorators", you know she has a very vivacious personality. This comes through in the book. It's clear she loves to entertain and to make her guests feel at home.The house is beautifully decorated but there is nothing stuffy about it. It's not easy to pull off the combo of comfortable yet chic. I've flagged quite a few pages in this book.Sigh, I cannot wait until I can have my own home in the countryside.
Io Adoro - Chez Dédé
I've written about Wonderfool the spa and concept store before. One thing I really like about Wonderfool is how they highlight Iocal artisans.A few weeks ago there was an aperitivi at the store and several of the designers were there.I had a chance to speak with the très chic Daria Reina the Creative Director of Chez Dédé, a French-Italian label. She and her partner Andrea Ferolla started the company a few years ago. Inspiration struck the luxury goods communications consultant and the art director while they were on the island of St. Barths.At Wonderfool they sell only their bags, but Chez Dédé also makes scarves and bracelets. Their scarves for men, Les New Yorkaises, would be perfect for my boyfriend, if I had one. The colors are striking and I hope they start to design some for us ladies as well.Each bag is name for an island or a beach they have visited. One of the newest editions is their Grand Tour bag. It's sporty and sophisticated. I LOVE it. It's a perfect bag for a longer trip. You can fill it with mementos of your journey.Another addition to the collection is the Taormina bag. Made with a stunning Sicilian red, this bag inspires me to book a trip to Sicily pronto.
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The craftsmanship is remarkable. Not only are these bags gorgeous, they are well made. Daria said it was important to her and her partner to make the bags in Italy. I'm sure Chez Dédé would make a lot more money producing the bags elsewhere. I appreciate their commitment to pay artisans well.
I'm not completely anti-fast fashion, but I'm doing my best to avoid it. I'd rather own a few things of excellent quality than buy a bunch of things from Zara/H&M/Top Shop that fall apart after two washings. Also, I have the worst figure for fast fashion. What looks cool on my thin and/or tall friends looks, well, cheap on me.
I adore these bags and not just because I'm an Island Girl myself. They are very "Stylish Simplicity".
I was telling one of my friends that I couldn't decide which one to get. One of the bigger totes (Ciao Portofino! Bonjour Cap Ferrat!) or the cute smaller Salina one? I will decide after my birthday next month.
Traveling To Rome? You Need These Apps.
My friend, Erica, has written a more in-depth post on Huffington Post about Rome based apps. I'm writing about my top three.I receive a lot of e-mails asking me where to eat in Rome. I love to cook and have my favorite restaurants, but I'm by no means an expert. Instead, I suggest people buy apps by Gillian McGuire, Katie Parla and Elizabeth Minchilli. I've asked them why they decided to create their apps (which is a lot of work). Thanks for responding, ladies!Why buy an app? For one, they are updated frequently. Some guidebooks become outdated the moment they are published. Also, these apps are written by people who really know this city. They live here. They see the vendors they write about, know the chef/cooks at the restaurants, and capture the city in a way that someone on short term assignment cannot do.I think they are an invaluable resource. There are a lot of restaurants, gelato places, coffee shops, etc. here and yes, it is possible to have a bad meal in Rome. With these apps, the chances of that happening are greatly reduced.EAT ROME by Elizabeth Helman Minchilli. When Elizabeth was twelve her family moved to Rome. She returned for good while studying in Florence for her dissertation. Elizabeth has written books on design and has been writing about food, design, and travel for various publications for twenty years. One of my favorite features of her app is the comment section. It's great to read everyone's experiences at various restaurants. Elizabeth does respond to feedback which helps keep the app up to date."I'm a big believer in embracing all of the technical innovations that are happening in publishing. While I've always been happy to write for magazines, newspapers and book publishers (and continue to do so) I love the possibility that blogs and apps present. They give me not only much more control over the content, but allow exciting and extremely helpful direct contact with my readers."ROME FOR FOODIES by Katie Parla. Katie grew up in the Garden State (aka New Jersey). She started working in restaurants from a young age and moved to Rome in 2003 after graduating from college. Since her move, Katie has earned a sommelier certificate (FISAR) and an MA in the Cultura Gastronomica Italiana (Universita’ degli Studi di Roma “Tor Vergata”). Katie has has written several guide books and writes about food and travel for a number of publications. The Katie's Picks section is great. She has a very specific POV when it comes to food and doesn't hold back her opinions."I decided to develop and app for a few reasons. I wanted to experiment with new media, find a new way to connect with readers, and monetize blog content. I had the app re-developed in order to introduce concepts of branding and improve user interface."ROME FOR EXPATS by Gillian McGuire. Gillian has lived in Rome for seven years. Prior to her move, she and her family lived in several African countries. Her expats friends call her "The Source" for a reason. I've included an expat app because there are people who travel to Rome and rent apartments and/or stay for an extended period. If you need to know where to find an English speaking dentist, or a hairdresser, cilantro, or maybe you're dying for a bagel, or looking for a personal trainer (to help burn off that bagel), this is the app for you."First, I love an assignment, so I found I was often asked the question "where can I find... x?
Buon Viaggio - Cannes and St. Tropez
My first trip to southern France was incredible. My friend's boss invited me to join them on his yacht. At first I wasn't sure about going since I didn't have a film at the festival and I had nothing to wear.
I like to have a plan. What exactly would I do in Cannes? My friend told me to get a grip as the trip was completely paid for. She had a point.
I'm very glad I said yes. Our host was lovely. Being a good host (and a good guest) is not something everyone knows how to do. I'm not sure why this is as there are a billion magazine articles and books on etiquette.
The attention to detail was impressive. The crew went above and beyond to make sure we were comfortable. The chef was OUTSTANDING. I ate well and drank some great wines.
On the first day, the water was extremely choppy. It calmed down by the evening and I had no problems sleeping. it was so quiet (unlike my darn neighborhood). The décor of my en suite cabin (and the yacht in general) was fantastic, very classic and understated. It felt like a home.
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It was nice, and surreal, to catch up with some Hollywood friends. There were multiple celebrity sightings. I did slip into a little funk after one exec said something bitchy to me. My friend and her husband cheered me up and reminded me why I left L.A. in the first place. Also, a good friend back in Rome told me to remember where I was staying and to forget about that miserable snobby person. Which is what I did as I drank some rosé.
On Friday we drove to St. Tropez. The traffic was bananas but it was worth it. We had a delicious lunch at Le Club 55. It was great people watching. Later, I read that during July and August the whole beach becomes quite the scene. When we were there the restaurant was packed with local families looking like the wealthy French version of J. Crew.
The sun came out during lunch and we drove back with the top down. It wasn't a bad way to spend a Friday afternoon.
The village of St. Tropez is charming. I would love to go back and spend more time there.
There were many highlights during my short trip (French bread, excellent bath products, jogging through Cannes early in the morning) but the best thing about it was spending time with my friends.
Flashback: Françoise Hardy - Le Temps De L'Amour
I went to Cannes last week for the film festival as a guest of my friend's boss. I cannot get this song out of my head. It plays during the trailer of the new Wes Anderson movie, "Moonrise Kingdom", which was the opening film of the festival.The first time I saw the trailer I was worried the movie would be too "twee". There's a reason Anderson is one of the most polarizing film directors working in Hollywood today. I bumped into a film critic last week who told me the movie really moved him (after the first half hour) and I've heard the performances are great.My parents had several Hardy records when I was growing up, but I was trying to fit into suburban America and wasn't checking for a singer from France. Now, like many other things my Caribbean parents liked, I get it.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHkm-ELeDsk&w=480&h=360]Here's the "Moonrise Kingdom" trailer.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7LBojkMo8M&w=640&h=360]
I Know There Is Beef Between Milano And Roma But...
I have to say I had a great time in Milano. I don't think I could live there with all the fog and smog. It's too cold during the winters (ten years in Los Angeles, has clearly thinned my blood) and too grey.The "rivalry" between Rome and Milan is similar to the one between San Francisco and Los Angeles. I swear when I hear Milanese talk about Rome it sounds like a person from San Francisco complaining about flaky Angelenos. Meanwhile many Angelenos say San Francisco is a fake New York and needs to get over itself.The vibe in Milan is completely different from Rome's. As a Milanese friend said to me once, "Milan is an European city. Rome is an Italian city."It's a smaller city, with Milan's city limits population at 1.3 million compared to Rome's 2.8 million. Milan is the business, fashion, media/advertising, and design capital of Italy and many international companies like Google and Sony base their Italian offices there.
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One thing that cracked me up was that every single cab driver (I took a lot of cabs thanks to the strikes. Sigh) told me they thought Rome was beautiful but could never drive there.
When people who drive for a living tell you a place has insane drivers, one must pay heed. One cab driver said, "Look at this traffic! See how we have lanes here and it's orderly? That doesn't happen in Rome." I learned to drive stick in Rome and had to agree with his observation.
I've often heard that the Milanese were not friendly. That wasn't my experience at all. Maybe everyone I met was in a good mood because of the Salone?
On Saturday morning I was looking for a textile showroom located on a small side street not far from the stock exchange. I couldn't get over how quiet it was. I felt like I was in NYC's Financial District. At 10:30 a.m. Rome is already crowded with tour buses and huge groups of tourists following a tour guide holding an stick/flag/umbrella.
When I saw Cattelan's (one of Italy's most famous contemporary artists) piece, I gasped. I could not imagine a work of art like that on Wall Street, especially as the finger is being given to us, the public. I thought it was a very astute comment on the financial meltdown of 2008. When it was unveiled many business people were not pleased but the mayor stood firm. It was only supposed to be there for a month. It might remain in its current location until 2013, then moved to a museum.
Next time I go to Milan, I hope I have time to see some art. And the Prada flagship store.
Buon Viaggio: Salone del Mobile 2012, Milano
This was the first time I've been in Milan for longer than 24 hours and only my second visit. I had a great, yet exhausting, trip.I do realize I saw the city at its most happening. I will write a separate post about Milan. I cannot wait to return.The Salone (April 17-22) is one of the most important and popular design exhibitions in the world.Over 300,000 people attend and there are events all over the city. Fiera Milano Rho was the main exhibit hall. It's massive. I was shocked at how organized everything was. It's not easy to put on an event of this scale.Listed below are a few of my favorite things from the Salone 2012.The bathroom and kitchen exhibitions at RHO:The Miele and Bosch cooking demonstrations.The Diesel/Scavolini kitchen collaboration.SMEG refrigerators with denim covers.In the Center:MERCI pop-up store - located in a courtyard off Via Tortona, the Parisian concept store was packed.Idarica Gazzoni - This Italian textile designer is one of my favorite artists. I love her use of color.Paola C. - The studio spotlights young international artists working in glass, ceramics, and metals. The Foxy pitcher won the Wallpaper Design Award in 2011.
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Boffi - I had no idea their bathroom line was so extensive. I could've stayed in the showroom for hours.
Dimore Studio - This interior, furniture and lighting design firm had one of the most beautiful spaces of the Salone. No photos were allowed. I saw some people sneaking shots anyway, which I thought was kind of rude.
Dedar - The firm where I interned used Dedar's fabrics frequently. Having the opportunity to visit the showroom was a highlight of my trip. Their Hermès collaboration is everything.
Alessi - The Piana chair designed by David Chipperfield.
I just got back yesterday and I'm still processing my trip. Now comes the downside of traveling, unpacking.