Life in Rome - The Flaminio Flea Market
Borghetto Flaminio is not as well known as the famous Porto Portese market. The latter has more furniture but Flaminio is the market to check out for authentic vintage/used designer clothes and interesting tableware.As with any flea market there could be some fakes, but this market has a good reputation. Many of the vendors are regulars. If they were selling fake Prada, Gucci, Hermès, etc. the word would get out pretty quickly.Borghetto Flaminio is tiny. I suggest getting there early. It's packed with fantastic finds. I hadn't been there in years so when my friend, artist and florist Marta, suggested we check it out, I was ready.A cool tea set from the 40s.
Lovely monogrammed vintage linen.
A taste of Hermès. This was the most popular vendor in the market. They also had some drop dead gorgeous vintage Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Fendi bags.
Love this Murano glass set from the 60s.
Marta was VERY excited about this patent leather Prada bag.
Sundays (except holidays)Piazza della Marina, 32Sundays, 10AM – 7PM€1.60 entrance feeFrom mid-September to mid-July
Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas
I cannot believe it's Christmas 2014 already. Where did this year go?In a sea filled with awful news (I really need to ease up on how much I watch and read everyday), it's good to be reminded of joyous things.Last Friday my friend, Gina, invited me to meet her, Rachel, and Elizabeth at their friend Alice's holiday pop-up bakery. Alice Is a food stylist and cook. Her gingerbread cookies were delicious. I wonder if it's possible to order some during the off season. I must investigate.I loved the simple decorations, the Prosecco, and most importantly, sharing them with friends old and new.
It's not easy to be far away from my family during the holidays, but I feel very fortunate to be surrounded by an incredible group of friends.Merry Christmas!!
Life in Rome - A Tour of Bulgari's Heritage Collection
Recently AWAR (The American Women's Association of Rome) had the privilege of taking a small (only twenty members) private tour of Bulgari's Heritage Collection.I RSVPed the minute I read the invitation.I haven't been inside the store since the Peter Marino renovation. One morning, when I was jogging up Via Condotti on my way to Villa Borghese Park, I'm positive I saw the architect walking out of the store. Who else would be wearing that outfit at 8:30 in the morning, in Rome?Bulgari was founded by Sotirios Bulgaris in Rome one hundred and thirty years ago. The Heritage Collection is a celebration of this history. There are over six hundred unique pieces. The jewelery, watches, accessories, and drawings were curated during years of research and archival work. Bulgari has been buying back importance pieces from auctions and private collections.While Bulgari is part of the French high-end global powerhouse LVMH, the DNA of the company is Roman.DOMUS means home in Latin and that space (located on the second floor) is where you will find pieces from the Heritage Collection.The store is gorgeous. Marino, inspired by the Pantheon and other Roman masterpieces, modernized the flagship store without stripping it of its history and charm.The foyer on the first floor. Nods to the Pantheon in this circular space.
The back stairs that lead to Domus. That pattern.
This floor and that table. No words.
Here's a picture I took of the floor so you can see the intricate tiling. Stunning. I gasped when I saw it.
Caterina Riccardi, Bulgari Brand Heritage Special Projects, explains the connection between the Heritage Collection and the Eternal City. Ms. Riccardi was the Via Condotti store manager for over thirty years. Her tour was excellent, informative and entertaining.
This sapphire necklace was bought from a private collector in the States. Be still, my beating heart.
Richard Burton once said, "The only Italian word Elizabeth knows is Bulgari." Burton gave Taylor this sapphire and diamond necklace and ring for her fortieth birthday. Actress Jessica Chastin wore the iconic necklace at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival. She was the first person to wear it since Taylor.
From 1960, a gold watch bracelet with diamonds and rubies. I do not like snakes but I'd make an exception for this one.
This is just a little taste of the incredible pieces in this collection. I was inspired by the colors, the designs, and the craftsmanship.By appointment only. To reserve a visit, contact: DOMVScondotti.visits@bulgari.com or +39 06 688101 First three photos: Bulgari.Other photos: Me and my iPhone.
Weekend Inspiration - All of the Lights - Campo de' Fiori
For me the day after Thanksgiving has nothing to do with shopping. It means I can start playing Christmas carols.This probably comes as a shock to people who don't know me well, as I appear to be a person who loves to shop. It's even part of my job.However, the whole Black Friday thing always left a bad taste in my mouth. While Short Hills Mall is one of my favorite places in America, I'd rather listen to Izzy Azalea on a continuous loop than go there on the day after Thanksgiving.We don't have such a thing in Italy and I don't see it happening anytime soon. The concept of standing/waiting in line is completely foreign, even in places (like the post office) where we're supposed to.One thing that is also popular here, are street lights. This week crews were putting them up all over town.In my neighborhood, Campo de Fiori, we have these:
I adore the simplicity of them.Now, I'm off to play some of my favorite holiday jams.Buon weekend!
Weekend Inspiration - Foliage - Hudson River Valley
Suddenly, Fall has arrived in Rome.On Sunday my friends were swimming at the beach. Monday was a Bermuda shorts day. Tuesday? The temperature dropped by 20 degrees (F).This morning the air was very clear and crisp. I think I need to bake an apple crumble.The leaves are started to drop along the Tiber River. The chestnut vendors are actually selling chestnuts now. They started weeks ago but nobody wanted to buy hot chestnuts when it was 85 degrees out.One thing I loved about growing up on the East Coast, was the change in seasons. Our town had a LOT of trees and many of them were in our backyard. It wasn't so fun to rake them but we did enjoy jumping into the piles.The last two weeks of October is best time to drive up to the Hudson River Valley to check out the leaves.The reds and oranges in this photo are gorgeous.
Photo: Eric/Flickr Commons
Buon weekend a tutti!
Weekend Inspiration - Muriel Brandolini's Pool - Hamptons, NY
I wonder if we could re-set this week.Every time I turned on the news in the morning before my workout, there was some horrific, sad, or tragic breaking news.I had to look at something relaxing and beautiful. A picture of interior designer Muriel Brandolini's pool, featured in Architectural Digest was just what I needed.When I read the issue, this page jumped out at me. How stunning is this pool?
I don't swim (long story) but I could see myself enjoying the pool and the views.It's important to be informed about what is happening in the world. We must also remember to appreciate beauty in the world as well.Buon Ferragosto!
Dolce Far Niente (The Sweetness of Doing Nothing).
I wish I knew I how to do this.Trust me, this is not a humblebrag. You know when you ask someone how they're doing and they reply, "BUSY!"? Then they proceed to talk for twenty minutes about how busy they are?I used to do the BUSY thing all the time when I lived in Los Angeles. I broke out of that habit after living here a few years. When Italians ask, "how are you?", they really want to know. It's a conversation starter, not an opportunity to brag about how much work you do. Nobody wants to hear that mess unless you are at a work conference or something.While I have calmed down a bit since my big move, I still find myself feeling guilty for not working all the time. I know there are people who never stop. I did that during my Hollywood years but had nothing to show for it other than missed weddings back east, stress, and debt.So I know I wasn't healthy or happy during that time yet August in Rome continues to freak me out. This week my vendors are closing up for the summer. There is nothing I can do regarding deliveries, invoices, my projects, etc.Last year when I went to Salina, I had a view like this,
but I was constantly checking my emails and on the phone with my clients. However, that was in June. August is another story.In August I'm forced to slow down so why can't I just chill the heck out without feeling guilty about it? One of my favorite designers, Erin Gates of ELEMENTS OF STYLE, wrote a fantastic POST about the pressure we Americans put on ourselves to do it all.It's madness. I told myself that this year would be different. It's not. It's only the 6th and instead of reveling in the summer, I want September to get here already.My local caffe and many of my favorite restaurants are shutting down this week. Only the places catering to tourists will be opened. Most of my friends are gone and the rest are leaving next week. Tumbleweeds will roll down Lungotevere.I should try to follow my dad's example. He was an incredibly hard worker but he also knew how to relax. He truly appreciated the little vacation and down time he had. My mom also worked hard but NEVER relaxed. Even on her days off from work she was going, going, going. I used to think I was a combination of the two but no, I'm more like my mom. There's always something that must be done.I have my own company. You'd think I would be able to give myself a break and/or vacation. No, instead I think if don't burn the candle at both ends I won't be able to succeed, which means I won't be able to pay my rent, therefore I will end up living under the Ponte Sisto bridge.Okay, this summer I am going to break the cycle, dammit! I must do it for my mental, physical, and creative health.We'll see how the rest of the year shapes up as I start my quest to partake in the fine Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente.Any suggestions?
A New York City Rooftop Pool With A View
My friends in Rome are probably sick of hearing me go on and on about wanting a terrace.Well, that would be some of my friends who already have terraces. I don't think they appreciate how wonderful having a terrace is. One friend rarely uses his. I cannot understand this! Trust, once I have my terrace I will be out there all the time, even in the snow.Okay, that was an exaggeration as it snows here maybe once every twenty years or so.I don't need a huge space. Nor, a pool. However, if I had a chance to live in Keith Jacobson's home, featured in New York Magazine, I would.
A penthouse with views of the High Line? Yes.An outdoor kitchen? Yes.A full bathroom with an outdoor shower? Yes.Designed by Francis D’Haene, founder of D’Apostrophe Design and his colleague, Patrocinio Binuya, this rooftop was almost too much for me to handle in my terrace-less state.Yet, I still looked at the photos.
The landscape design was done by Miguel Pons.
Photos by David Allee
I'm glad they spared us photos of the cocktail bar.
Weekend Inspiration - Borromini - Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza
I see the top of this church every time I walk across the piazza near my house. Built from 1642-1660, it's a classic work of Baroque architecture. The architect was Francesco Borromini, aka arch enemy of Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Photo: me with my iPhone
While I am down for Bernini, it's unfortunate that Borromini is not appreciated more. His contemporaries were perceived as being stronger visual artists. Borromini's strength was more technical but that doesn't mean we should overlook the beauty of his buildings.Borromini was extremely difficult to work with and often depressed. He committed suicide in 1667.This church is just one of his masterpieces and it inspires me.Buon weekend!
Weekend Inspiration - Alice Pasquini - Street Art Instameetup
There's a very vibrant street art scene in Rome, which surprises quite a few people. One of best areas to see some of this art, is the San Lorenzo district.
Photo: Alice Pasquini
San Lorenzo is home to La Sapienza, one of the largest universities in the world and the biggest in Europe.
This area of Rome was also the most heavily bombed during WW II. Most of the buildings were destroyed and you can still see some of the damage today. As with many neighborhoods located near large universities, there's a large population of artists and other creative types mixed in with older residents.
If you're in Rome this Sunday, there is a Street Art Instameetup in San Lorenzo starting at 5:00 p.m.
Join the organizers Erica Firpo @moscerina, Jessica Stewart @romephotoblog, Darius Arya @saverome, and Matteo @mattego as they roam in Rome.
If you cannot be with us in person, you can follow via Instagram.
Buon weekend a tutti!
Life in Rome - Doria Pamphilj Galleria
I chuckle when I read articles telling tourists they can see Rome in a day.I have lived here for six years and visited regularly for three years prior and I still haven't seen everything this city has to offer.One of the places on my list was the Galleria Doria Pamphilj . Note: Sometimes the name is spelled with a "i".I have been to the café several times but never to the museum. Last week I finally went.Bellissimo. It's the largest palazzo in Rome that is still owned by the family. There are free audio guides (subject to availability). Prince Jonathan Pamphilj's narration is fantastic. He really makes the rooms come alive and it's very interesting to hear his stories about growing up in the palazzo. Jonathan and his family live in one of the apartments on the upper level of the palazzo, as does his sister Gesine and her family.There are over 550 works of art. The Doria Pamphilj family has one of the biggest private art collections in Rome. Fortunately for art lovers, the collection is opened to the public.For me the highlights were the Caravaggios, the ballroom, and the Velázquez.
Photos: Doria Pamphilj
DETAILSOpen every day from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.Last entry 6.00 p.m.Closed: 25th December, 1st January, Easter.We inform our visitors that the Palazzo Doria Pamphili is open to the public November 1st, April 25th, May 1st.TICKETSFull price: €11,00 (audio guide included – subject to availability)Concessions or Groups, children and young adults between 6 and 26 years old: €7.50Schools/ University: 5,00 €Concessions for school groups with prior reservation by fax or e-mail : info@dopart.it ; biglietteria@dopart.itAll cards are accepted except Am.Ex & DinersCONTACTSEntrance: Via del Corso, 305 – RomeTel: +39 06 / 6797323Fax: +39 06 / 6780939E-mail: info@dopart.itWebsite: www.dopart.it
Stylish Simplicity - White Jeans
Today is Festa della Repubblica in Italy. It's similar to July 14th in France or the 4th of July in the United States of America. It's a three day weekend. While most of my friends went out of town, I stayed behind in the city.I've just returned from checking in on my Anguilla project. Before I left, the weather in Rome was awful... constant rain and chilly.Now, summer is here. The days are getting longer and folks have busted out their white jeans.I used to avoid white jeans because I thought my thighs were too "thick" for them. I now know it's all about the cut and what I'm wearing as a top.I love this summer look. It's so stylish and simple. Below are five favorites:The one, the only, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis.
The lovely Garance Doré photographed by her man, Scott Schuman (aka The Satorialist).
Zoe Saldana. Really like the color of her blazer.
Photo: trendmill.com
Geraldine Saglio from FRENCH VOGUE. Those shoes!
Photo: gastrochic.com
Molto chic.
Photo: thebestfashionblog.com
Life In Rome - Palazzo Nardini
I've written before about my fascination with abandoned houses.On Via del Governo Vechhio there's an empty palazzo that I've walked by many times. Unlike some other big cities I've lived in, there are very few vacant buildings in the center of Rome. So much so that they truly stand out.One morning I noticed there were riot police at the end of the block. The doors of the building were opened and there was a large group of protesters inside. They were demanding that the county (which owns the property) renovate the space into affordable housing. I doubt that will happen given the location, red tape, and costs.Built in the late 1400s by Cardinal Stefano Nardiini, I had to check it out.
I had no idea that this building was so large.
I hope something wonderful happens with this space. It's a shame that it's just sitting there, empty.
Weekend Inspiration - Roses - Rome, Italy
One of my favorite spots in Rome is finally opened.If you plan to be in Rome before June 15th, I highly recommend a visit. It's opened from 8:30 - 19:30. Entrance is free.Buon weekend!
Weekend Inspiration - Happy - Pharrell Williams
Yesterday the UN, and people all over the world, celebrated International Day of Happiness.Given all the horrible things happening here on planet Earth, it would be very easy to shrug and think there's nothing to be happy about.Sometimes when I'm in a very good mood, I get a little freaked out. Why am I in a good mood? I should be cynical, depressed, and anxious. It's as if I have no right to be happy. I meet a lot of expats in Rome. Many are not happy and are suspicious of those who are. Being happy is not "keeping it real." We end up fueling each others' fire.One of my dear friends said I should avoid miserable people. Why get sucked into their constant negativity and pessimism? True, we all have bad days, weeks, even months, but as I get older I find I have less patience for people who complain ALL the time but never do anything to change/improve their situation.I tend to worry a lot, mostly about my future. How will I pay my bills? Will my business continue to grow? Will I ever be fluent in Italian? Why is Drake so popular? I lie awake at night and dwell on things I have no control over. This is not healthy and I'm working on it.When I'm happy it's not because anything has really changed. I still have the same bills, worries, and issues. However, sometimes I do remember that I am extremely fortunate in ways that cannot be measured in dollars or euros.It won't be easy but I'm going to try my best to do the opposite of what I normally do, which is to worry and complain.Another friend proclaimed that this was going to be a great year. Based on what? Nothing. She believes it and therefore is going to do everything in her power to make it so.I like the why she thinks.Buon weekend!(I adore this video. I have to restrain myself from dancing when I hear this song while jogging.)[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6Sxv-sUYtM&w=560&h=315]
Weekend Inspiration - A Tuscan Fireplace
We were very lucky in Rome this week. No Polar Vortex. That said, it's freezing in the morning.When I saw the picture below I sighed. Loudly. I'm pretty sure this fireplace is bigger than my apartment.The fireplace is original to the home. How gorgeous are these floors?
Photo: elledecor.com
I hope it warms up soon. Buon weekend!
Weekend Inspiration - Lights - Via del Corso - Rome
How is it possible that Christmas is only five days away.Buon weekend!
Life In Rome - Gordon Parks Exhibition
Last week a fantastic Gordon Park's exhibit opened in Rome. Titled, Una Storia Americana (an American History), this is one of the largest retrospectives of his work.Gordon Parks was a true renaissance man. He was a self-taught photographer, musician, writer, film director, and poet.Parks was also quite popular with the ladies. When he was sixty he met a young aspiring writer named Candace Bushell, who had recently moved to New York City. She moved in. She was eighteen.He became the first African-American to direct a major Hollywood movie and was the first African-American photographer hired by LIFE and VOGUE magazines. His range of subjects, along his talent, made Parks one of the most important American photographers of the 20th century. Many of his images are iconic and will be for years.
"Ornament, ornament, ornament!"
My sister, Daniella, is ten years younger than me and six years younger than our brother, Gerry. We were old enough to remember the day our parents walked into the house with a new baby. She had a fine pair of lungs.Later that night, my ten year-old self was annoyed. Sure Daniella was an adorable baby and everything but hello, I had school in the morning. I couldn't sleep with all that noise. I may have said something to my mom who gave me the classic Caribbean mother "you better stop with your nonsense" face. I stopped.I was in high school when Daniella started kindergarten. Laning Avenue Elementary School had a Santa's Workshop where kids could buy Christmas gifts for their family and friends.Gerry and I would take our gifts from under the tree, unwrap them and say loudly, "ornament, ornament, ornament!" as every year from kindergarten to fifth grade that is what Daniella gave us. My parents still have those ornaments.I think it started with Gerry, who said, "oh look, it's another ornament. Ornament, ornament, ornament!" I have no idea why we found this hysterically funny.Years later during the first Christmas day we spent with my future sister-in-law and brother-in-law, I busted out with the ornament thing (it really was an ornament) and my siblings and I lost it. My in-laws to be glanced at each other, "what's wrong with these folks?"I don't have room in my apartment for even a Charlie Brown tree, but I could buy an ornament or two.Here are a few that caught my eye:Reindeer! Love the scarves. Very snazzy.
A classic bullicante glass ball ornament from Tiffany & Co for those with more champagne tastes.
I don't like mice at all but how charming are these ballerinas at Dédé Maison, one of my favorite stores in Rome.
DéDé Maison: Photos by me
Great matte finish on this silver ornament.
Here are more mice with exceptional artistic abilities.
Weekend Inspiration - J.K. Place Hotel - Rome
This week, LONNY wrote about the new J.K. Place Hotel. Believe the hype. It's gorgeous.Months ago, one of my vendors told me I had to see the chartreuse DEDAR fabric architect/interior designer Michele Bonan used in the cafe. I finally had a chance to see it when my friend Erica and I went to meet a colleague of hers and his wife who were staying at the hotel.I told Erica we must add J.K. to our list. We are very hard on places when it comes to cocktails. It's not enough to have an excellent bartender, the décor must be on point.Erica's colleague showed us their room. I almost cried when I saw the bathroom. This one is a little larger. Look at that shower. The floors. The marble. Sigh.
Bonan is one of my favorite designers and what he did with the space is stunning. The building used to be the architecture school for La Sapienza (the largest university in Rome).
Inspired by Tom Ford's film, A SINGLE MAN, the atmosphere is what folks back in the States call "grown and sexy."It's a very unique space in Rome and I think the bar/lobby will appeal to people who are, well, grown and sexy. I don't see Flip-Flop Girls™ hanging out here. Grazie dio!I could spend hours in the library.
For more pictures of J.K. Place Roma, you can click on their gallery HERE.Photos: J.K. Place Roma