Seven Days of Sicily - Day 6 - The Sea
I appreciate the majesty of the Hudson River and the cool blues of a lake in Maine but I’m a sea/ocean person.It’s probably because I’ve spent the majority of my life living on the East and West Coasts of the United States and during the summer my family went to the Caribbean to see my grandparents. Even if I didn’t go to the ocean often, when I lived in Manhattan the beach was a summer situation only, I needed to know that it was close by.Once I moved to Los Angeles, I had a car again. On Sundays I would load up my LL Bean tote bag with scripts for the infamous weekend read and head to El Matador Beach in Malibu. Working on Sundays wasn't so bad with a view of the Pacific Ocean.Sicily, Italy’s largest region, has 992 miles of coastline surrounded by the Tyrrhenian, Mediterranean, and Ionian seas.Sunrise. Ortigia. The sea was a block away from my apartment.
So were these rocks. Erica’s five year-old daughter asked me if I was going to jump in too. I told her I didn’t swim. She’s a great swimmer and was perplexed by my answer.
Ortigia. Early morning swimmers.
Siracusa. Three small trees on a cliff spotted during an early morning jog.
Mt. Etna. View from the Monaci della Terra Nere boutique hotel on a cloudy morning.
Salina. View of Stromboli.
Salina. On the mountain near the village of Pollara.
Salina. The San Lorenzo church in Malfa.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Seven Day of Sicily - Day 5 - Ceramics
Sicily is known for its hand painted pottery.Like the cuisine, each region has it's own style. I have to ask Erica where she bought her octopus plate. I think it was somewhere near Cefalù.As I have stated before, I have no more room in my apartment, so I was only able to buy a few small bowls.I used one of the them in the photos that Gina took of the terrace project I worked on.
The larger blue and white bowl and the little eggshell one (for salt or jam) were bought at a small workshop located right on my street. Ceramiche Artiginali DoLù, Via Larga, 7 Ortigia +39 0931 449451
The other bowls were bought at a tiny store on the island of Salina. It was located on the main street in Malfa. The owners told me Dolce & Gabbana bought quite a few pieces from them. You can see the influence in their S/S 2013 collection.
Speaking of that collection, please note my fellow Americans that the black versions of these kings and queens are not the same thing as Mammy imagery from America. Context is important when looking through our very specific American lens of a different culture, history, and country. I was annoyed that their runaway (like most) had no diversity.I say this as someone who gave Gladys Knight the side-eye when she became a spokeswoman for Aunt Jemina back in the day. I didn't care that AJ's handkerchief was replaced with a relaxer. I knew that context of that brand.
Taken from the terrace of the Metropole Hotel, Taormina, Sicily.
Photos Dolce and Gabbana: Fashionista Other photos. Me and my iPhone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 4 - Ortigia's Farmers Market
I kept bumping into Erica and her parents at the market.We do have great markets in Rome but the market in Ortigia is on another level. I think it's because the food doesn't have far to travel. The freshness and variety is unreal.I'm still going on and on to Erica about the peaches I had. I'm sure she's tired of hearing about them.I didn't buy any fish but I did eat my share from the market. I'm still talking about that too.A MUST is the shop, Fratelli Burgio, located near the end of the market closest to the sea. It gets very crowded so be patient. I hear they have fantastic sandwiches and aperitivi. The line for sandwiches was long and there was only one person behind the counter. Poor guy.I bought some Pachino sun dried tomatoes in olive oil there. At thirty-two euros a kilo they were not cheap but were worth every single euro.A bowl of said tomatoes. Pachino tomatoes are grown only on the Southeastern coast of Sicily.
The fishmongers were quite lively (and flirty). I was too shy to snap a photo of the very attractive gentleman who called me Ms. New York.
Baked ricotta cheese at Fratelli Burgio.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 3 - Noto
I took a little day trip to Noto on my birthday. After a quick thirty minute ride on the shortest train I've even seen, I arrived in a small town considered to be the height of Baroque urban planning.The Duomo is a show stopper. The old town was completely destroyed in the 1693 earthquake. The way it's laid out is very organized thanks to Giovanni Battista Landolina. Working with three architects, Rosario Gagliardi, Vincenzo Sinatra, and Paolo Labisi, Landolina designed three main streets, running parallel. At the top were the aristocracy (with the best views), the clergy in the middle, and everyone else at the bottom.I had a great time in gorgeous Noto. Caffe Sicilia on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, is fantastic. I had one of the best lemon granitas of my LIFE there.My return to Ortigia had a classic Italian moment. I bought a round-trip ticket. After a long walk, downhill, to the train station I noticed everything was closed. Ten minutes later, an announcement is made over the loud speaker in rapid-fire Italian saying my train had been canceled. Thank God I understand Italian because at a pocket-sized station why would there have been an explanation also in English? I went to a gym across the street to ask where the heck the bus stop was as there were no signs with that information.There were four men at the front desk chatting and they looked like Dolce & Gabbana models but with athletic builds. The men were very dark and handsome with those striking green/grey eyes you see all over Sicily. My brain froze. I literally could not speak Italian (or English really). One dude said, "are you okay?" I blamed the heat and they were kind enough to give me specific directions.The street was silent, expect for my cursing, as I climbed back up the ridiculously long and steep hill, in the blazing hot Sicilian sun (there were NO cabs around). At the bus stop I was told that the bus service between these small towns is a lot more reliable than the train. Thanks Trenitalia!The Duomo.
A view of the Duomo from one of the terraces of the Santa Chiara church.
Love the detailing above the chandelier.
I ate a delicious Pasta alla Norma and the service was great. The reviews of this restaurant are all over the map. Two foodie friends thought the food was overrated and others go to Noto just to eat here.
While am I more of a Biggie person, I can appreciate this graffiti.
Interior of the Montevergine church.
Three bells. Shot from another terrace of the Santa Chiara church.
Sea view. In the distance.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 2 - Food and Wine
You can see and taste the Greek, Spanish, and North African influences in Sicilian cuisine.The rich agricultural diversity of the island (the interior landscape is completely different from the coast) has also played a role in making this cuisine so unique (and delicious).A separate post will be written about the Ortigia Farmers Market.Some of my favorite Sicilian foods/dishes are:Arancini - Rice balls fried with either a ragu sauce inside or eggplant (and sometimes both).Capers - Picked by hand, these small flowers buds can be quite pricey outside of Italy.Caponata - An eggplant dish usually served as an antipasta. Every region of the island has their own way of making it. I heard it takes a long time to cook. Maybe I can convince my friend Gina to make it in Rome.Couscous al pesce - Couscous with fish.Fish - It's usually prepared simply. No need for extravagant sauces and spices when the food is so fresh. Anchovies, Vongole, Sea Urchins, Swordfish, Amberjack, Grouper, Tuna, Sardines, and Sea Bream are some of the local fish you will find in Sicily.Granita - Nobody does it better than Sicily. Nobody.Pasta alla Norma - Originally from the city of Catania, this pasta dish is made with lightly fried eggplant, grated ricotta salata, and basil. I've never made this dish. I think it's time to try it.Pasta con Sarde - Pasta with sardines. Usually has pine nuts, fennel, and raisins.Sicilian Bread - Yes, it is different from the bread on the mainland. It has a golden color thanks to the durum semolina flour used from locally grown wheat.Sfincione - A pizza type dish. The dough is thicker and airier.Wine - There is a lot of excitement about Sicilian wines and their talented producers. I usually drink Piemontese, French, (and a few Lazio ones when making Roman dishes) wines at home but I'm learning more about this region thanks to my knowledgeable friends. I really enjoy wines from the Mt. Etna area.I know this sounds outrageous but I'm not a big cannoli fan. Meanwhile my partner on this series, Erica, was on a mission to try every single cannolo and cassatina in the neighborhood. Pasta alla Norma. So good.
Little cassata cakes. AKA cassatiini.
I never had a Rosé from Mt. Etna before. The waitress at Clandestino recommended it. It was very good.
Pasta with swordfish, vongole, and cherry tomatoes.
Sigh.
A white wine from Agrigento. The owner of a little shop on Via Savoia (n. 2) recommended it after I told him I was invited to a lunch featuring risotto with shrimp. It was a big hit. I went back to buy another bottle. I hope there's a shop in Rome that sells it.
One of my favorite things about late spring and summer is drinking homemade iced tea with lemon granita (tè fatto in casa con limone granita). It's like an Italian Arnold Palmer.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Of course now I'm starving. What are some of your favorites?
Seven Days of Sicily - Day One - The Duomo
During my trip to Ortigia, I saw many beautiful things and ate many dishes that were so delicious I wanted to Tweet/IG/FB about them immediately.However, one of my goals during my vacation was to slow down. I wanted to focus on what I was seeing, doing, eating at that moment. I did occasionally post a picture on social media but cut way back.My friend, Erica, is also a Sicily fan and we decided to highlight a few things we love about this incredible island for seven days. You can following Erica on Instagram HERE.First up is the Duomo.I arrived in Ortigia during the early afternoon. After unpacking, and picking up some essential groceries, I walked over to the Duomo.I was not ready.Many friends have described the Duomo and its piazza as one of their favorites in all of Italy. Yet, I was still floored by her beauty, color, and presence. It is truly one of the most magnificent buildings I have ever seen.As with other regions of Italy, the layers of history in Sicily run deep. Siracusa was one of greatest and important cities in the Greek empire. This dramatic cathedral was built in and around a 5th Century BC Doric Temple to Athena. Doric columns are visible inside and outside the church.In the 800s it was converted into a mosque by the Arabs who conquered Sicily. Then the Byzantines returned to power, only to be defeated by the Arabs again. They ruled until the Normans defeated them in 1085.The Baroque facade was added after the devastating earthquake of 1693. Somehow this very ornate style sits in perfect harmony with the Greek lines and aesthetics of the earlier structure.I made it a point to see this building every single day.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
This piazza is a perfect place to relax as the sun goes down and the locals start their passeggiata.
Life in Rome - Buon Rientro and a Dolce Far Niente Progress Report
While my family and friends in the States are enjoying the last sunrays of Summer 2014 this Labor Day, it's Il Rientro here in Italy.This time I am ready!As I wrote earlier this summer, even after all the years I've lived here, I was still resistant to the European way of vacationing. I felt guilty and unproductive.Well, I am happy to report that major progress has been made regarding my efforts to partake in the great Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente. I'm not completely out of the workaholic woods yet but these things take time.I went to Siracusa, Sicily for my birthday, staying in the historic center called Ortigia. The first two days the Internet in my apartment was down, which was a blessing in disguise. I couldn't obsessively check my emails or read news headlines.When I arrived in Oritiga, I was a one big ball of stress. By the end of the week, I was so calm not even the chaos at the Catania airport and my delayed flight could wind me up.This calmness was short-lived as it ended by my first evening back in Rome but that's a different story.It was my first trip to this area of Sicily and just what the doctor ordered. I didn't realize how badly I needed a vacation until I had one. Yes, it was a short one but I still appreciated it.The architecture, design, history, and culture were inspiring. The food was on another level. My friend and her family just happened to be staying at an apartment around the corner.I will write more about my Sicilian adventures once I sort through all my photos.It took a few days into my trip for my major breakthrough. One morning I ditched my itinerary. I kept my plan to jog along the seawall at sunrise, and then hit the farmers' market after. That was it. I'll be honest. At first it was an odd sensation to not know exactly what I was going to do the rest of the day.When Erica called and invited me to lunch with her family at their place I said, "yes" instead of my usual freak out about impromptu plans.It was a glorious day of having a delicious lunch with my friends on their terrace (which had this view),
going to the "beach" (which was two block away),
reading my books and magazines while drinking a lot of homemade Tè Freddo con Limone Granita,
and enjoying the sweetness of doing nothing.I went on to enjoy this sweetness several times during the rest of my trip. I highly recommend it.
Weekend Inspiration - Muriel Brandolini's Pool - Hamptons, NY
I wonder if we could re-set this week.Every time I turned on the news in the morning before my workout, there was some horrific, sad, or tragic breaking news.I had to look at something relaxing and beautiful. A picture of interior designer Muriel Brandolini's pool, featured in Architectural Digest was just what I needed.When I read the issue, this page jumped out at me. How stunning is this pool?
I don't swim (long story) but I could see myself enjoying the pool and the views.It's important to be informed about what is happening in the world. We must also remember to appreciate beauty in the world as well.Buon Ferragosto!
Dolce Far Niente (The Sweetness of Doing Nothing).
I wish I knew I how to do this.Trust me, this is not a humblebrag. You know when you ask someone how they're doing and they reply, "BUSY!"? Then they proceed to talk for twenty minutes about how busy they are?I used to do the BUSY thing all the time when I lived in Los Angeles. I broke out of that habit after living here a few years. When Italians ask, "how are you?", they really want to know. It's a conversation starter, not an opportunity to brag about how much work you do. Nobody wants to hear that mess unless you are at a work conference or something.While I have calmed down a bit since my big move, I still find myself feeling guilty for not working all the time. I know there are people who never stop. I did that during my Hollywood years but had nothing to show for it other than missed weddings back east, stress, and debt.So I know I wasn't healthy or happy during that time yet August in Rome continues to freak me out. This week my vendors are closing up for the summer. There is nothing I can do regarding deliveries, invoices, my projects, etc.Last year when I went to Salina, I had a view like this,
but I was constantly checking my emails and on the phone with my clients. However, that was in June. August is another story.In August I'm forced to slow down so why can't I just chill the heck out without feeling guilty about it? One of my favorite designers, Erin Gates of ELEMENTS OF STYLE, wrote a fantastic POST about the pressure we Americans put on ourselves to do it all.It's madness. I told myself that this year would be different. It's not. It's only the 6th and instead of reveling in the summer, I want September to get here already.My local caffe and many of my favorite restaurants are shutting down this week. Only the places catering to tourists will be opened. Most of my friends are gone and the rest are leaving next week. Tumbleweeds will roll down Lungotevere.I should try to follow my dad's example. He was an incredibly hard worker but he also knew how to relax. He truly appreciated the little vacation and down time he had. My mom also worked hard but NEVER relaxed. Even on her days off from work she was going, going, going. I used to think I was a combination of the two but no, I'm more like my mom. There's always something that must be done.I have my own company. You'd think I would be able to give myself a break and/or vacation. No, instead I think if don't burn the candle at both ends I won't be able to succeed, which means I won't be able to pay my rent, therefore I will end up living under the Ponte Sisto bridge.Okay, this summer I am going to break the cycle, dammit! I must do it for my mental, physical, and creative health.We'll see how the rest of the year shapes up as I start my quest to partake in the fine Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente.Any suggestions?
A New York City Rooftop Pool With A View
My friends in Rome are probably sick of hearing me go on and on about wanting a terrace.Well, that would be some of my friends who already have terraces. I don't think they appreciate how wonderful having a terrace is. One friend rarely uses his. I cannot understand this! Trust, once I have my terrace I will be out there all the time, even in the snow.Okay, that was an exaggeration as it snows here maybe once every twenty years or so.I don't need a huge space. Nor, a pool. However, if I had a chance to live in Keith Jacobson's home, featured in New York Magazine, I would.
A penthouse with views of the High Line? Yes.An outdoor kitchen? Yes.A full bathroom with an outdoor shower? Yes.Designed by Francis D’Haene, founder of D’Apostrophe Design and his colleague, Patrocinio Binuya, this rooftop was almost too much for me to handle in my terrace-less state.Yet, I still looked at the photos.
The landscape design was done by Miguel Pons.
Photos by David Allee
I'm glad they spared us photos of the cocktail bar.
Weekend Inspiration - Starburst Textile - Peter Dunham
Continuing with the Peter Dunham theme, this weekend's inspiration is his Starburst print. This hand-printed fabric would be perfect in a beach house.
Photo: Peter Dunham Textiles
Speaking of beach houses, I wish I were going to one this weekend!Buon weekend a tutti.
Bigger Is Not Always Better - Peter Dunham's West Hollywood Home
Meeting Peter Dunham was one of the highlights of Kathryn M. Ireland's Design Workshop. I have adored his textiles and design for ages and was excited to see his showroom. He was lovely.I think it's very interesting that he downsized. When I lived in Los Angeles, most of my peers in entertainment were all about getting to the next level. You had to have the right address, the right car, and even if your house was perfect, the minute you could afford to (or not) you would upgrade to a bigger, better, house.In this month's issue of HOUSE BEAUTIFUL, there is a great interview (and slideshow) with Peter. He talks about why he moved from a house that was 3,500 square-feet to an apartment that is only 550 square-feet.Living in a tiny space forces you to edit. You cannot surround yourself with just "stuff."There is some fantastic design advice for small spaces in the article. You can read it HERE and check out more photos of his charming home.
Weekend Inspiration - Word Crimes - Weird Al Yankovic
The news this week has been horrible.I'm up at 3:00 a.m. I cannot sleep. I must remind myself not to look at Breaking News before I go to bed.This week Weird Al Yankovic (yes, he's still around) has dropped his new parody album. While "Tacky" was quite funny, "Word Crimes", a parody of "Blurred Lines", is my favorite so far.I needed to see and hear something light as we head into what is going to be a very stressful weekend.[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Gv0H-vPoDc&w=560&h=315]
Weekend Inspiration - Borromini - Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza
I see the top of this church every time I walk across the piazza near my house. Built from 1642-1660, it's a classic work of Baroque architecture. The architect was Francesco Borromini, aka arch enemy of Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Photo: me with my iPhone
While I am down for Bernini, it's unfortunate that Borromini is not appreciated more. His contemporaries were perceived as being stronger visual artists. Borromini's strength was more technical but that doesn't mean we should overlook the beauty of his buildings.Borromini was extremely difficult to work with and often depressed. He committed suicide in 1667.This church is just one of his masterpieces and it inspires me.Buon weekend!
Stylish Simplicity - Como Glasses - Paola Navone for Crate & Barrel
I've written before regarding how much I adore the collection Italian architect/furniture and interior designer Paola Navone has created exclusively for the American store Crate & Barrel.Her new collection is out. My siblings were kind enough to give me a gift certificate to Crate & Barrel and I had to get these glasses.
Now they are sitting at my sister's house. One day they'll make it to Rome.I love the color of the rim and the lines of the glass. Very simple and very stylish.
Weekend Inspiration - Graphic Design - World Cup Posters
What a great tournament it has been so far (except for a certain jackass who has an issue with biting people).We're now at the knockout stage. Brazil, Argentina, and Germany are the favorites to win it all but you never know. Look what happened to Spain.I was checking out old FIFA World Cup posters and below are five of my favorites.ITALY 1934
FRANCE 1938
ARGENTINA 1978
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 1994
SOUTH AFRICA 2010
I'm curious to see what will happen with Qatar and the scandal. It's great that FIFA wants to have the World Cup in different regions of the world, but Qatar in the summer? Sponsors are not happy about the bribery scandal. This is a huge mess any way you slice it. Moving the tournament to the winter will create even more problems, especially with broadcasters.It's a shame. I hope FIFA can get it together.There are going to be some serious nail-biting (no pun) games during the next two weeks. Cannot wait.Buon Weekend!
Stylish Simplicity - Eres Bikini (and a short rant)
Today's edition of Stylish Simplicity highlights the ERES bikini.
Work it J.Lo
Photo. Vogue June 2012
This French brand has some of the most beautiful bathing suits on the planet... classic and well made.
I never wore a bikini until I moved to Italy. NEVER. I grew up seeing magazine covers constantly saying, "Get A Beach Ready Body!" or tabloid headlines that screamed, "Worst Beach Bodies!" In Los Angeles many of my colleagues gleefully ripped celebrities to shreds, calling them fat and what not. Celebrities who were no larger than a size 4.
What's the point of starving oneself for the season? What happens once the summer is over, back to bad eating habits? I blame the Puritans for this madness.
The first time I went to the beach here I was stunned by the variety of shapes, sizes, and ages wearing bikinis and Speedos. Italians were chilling, just doing their thing. I stood out with my very sensible one-piece for a woman of a "certain age."
How do my friends in Italy get ready for beach season? They put on a bathing suit and go to the beach.
I'm not sure what made me decide to take the plunge and finally buy my first bikini. In the fitting room, I told the saleslady there wasn't enough coverage on top. She looked at me like I had two heads. She said that's the way a bikini was supposed to fit. I was skeptical.
The day came when my Eres bikini and I went out in public. The world didn't stop spinning. The Italians couldn't care less. The only reason I stood out is because I was one of the few people of color on the beach not selling a trinket.
Now my sensible one-pieces (which actually made me look heavier) are sitting at the back of my closet. To me function is just as important as style. A two-piece is more practical than a one-piece.
I wish I could go back and talk to my critical younger self. I'd tell her to get a grip, just go to the darn beach, and enjoy herself.
Weekend Inspiration - Alice Pasquini - Street Art Instameetup
There's a very vibrant street art scene in Rome, which surprises quite a few people. One of best areas to see some of this art, is the San Lorenzo district.
Photo: Alice Pasquini
San Lorenzo is home to La Sapienza, one of the largest universities in the world and the biggest in Europe.
This area of Rome was also the most heavily bombed during WW II. Most of the buildings were destroyed and you can still see some of the damage today. As with many neighborhoods located near large universities, there's a large population of artists and other creative types mixed in with older residents.
If you're in Rome this Sunday, there is a Street Art Instameetup in San Lorenzo starting at 5:00 p.m.
Join the organizers Erica Firpo @moscerina, Jessica Stewart @romephotoblog, Darius Arya @saverome, and Matteo @mattego as they roam in Rome.
If you cannot be with us in person, you can follow via Instagram.
Buon weekend a tutti!
Life in Rome - Doria Pamphilj Galleria
I chuckle when I read articles telling tourists they can see Rome in a day.I have lived here for six years and visited regularly for three years prior and I still haven't seen everything this city has to offer.One of the places on my list was the Galleria Doria Pamphilj . Note: Sometimes the name is spelled with a "i".I have been to the café several times but never to the museum. Last week I finally went.Bellissimo. It's the largest palazzo in Rome that is still owned by the family. There are free audio guides (subject to availability). Prince Jonathan Pamphilj's narration is fantastic. He really makes the rooms come alive and it's very interesting to hear his stories about growing up in the palazzo. Jonathan and his family live in one of the apartments on the upper level of the palazzo, as does his sister Gesine and her family.There are over 550 works of art. The Doria Pamphilj family has one of the biggest private art collections in Rome. Fortunately for art lovers, the collection is opened to the public.For me the highlights were the Caravaggios, the ballroom, and the Velázquez.
Photos: Doria Pamphilj
DETAILSOpen every day from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.Last entry 6.00 p.m.Closed: 25th December, 1st January, Easter.We inform our visitors that the Palazzo Doria Pamphili is open to the public November 1st, April 25th, May 1st.TICKETSFull price: €11,00 (audio guide included – subject to availability)Concessions or Groups, children and young adults between 6 and 26 years old: €7.50Schools/ University: 5,00 €Concessions for school groups with prior reservation by fax or e-mail : info@dopart.it ; biglietteria@dopart.itAll cards are accepted except Am.Ex & DinersCONTACTSEntrance: Via del Corso, 305 – RomeTel: +39 06 / 6797323Fax: +39 06 / 6780939E-mail: info@dopart.itWebsite: www.dopart.it
Weekend Inspiration - Yellow and Blue - CuisinArt, Anguilla BWI
The island of St. Martin is in the background
How pretty is this yellow and blue? I was having lunch at the CuisinArt hotel in Anguilla and had to snap this picture.Yellow can be a difficult color to work with but I hope to use it in my beach house project.Buon Weekend a tutti!