A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily
Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal. Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident. I got lost constantly. It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere. This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man. Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room. It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views. It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.
I woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna. 
It got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before. It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time. I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.
Of course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out. 
Grazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation. None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost. What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner. Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa. It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view. Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. 
Next, Modica.Had a slight fender bender. It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled. At least I wasn't driving a stick shift. I thought Modica was beautiful as well.
Three years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia. I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli. If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again. Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out. The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year! The word is out. There were small tour buses. The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related). I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.
Dinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.
By time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off. Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets. Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada. It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain. I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain. Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general. I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North. However, Sicily keeps calling me. I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring. The food and wine are incredible. The people I've met made me feel at home.
Sicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Life in Rome - This Time I am Ready for Ferragosto
First, I've just returned to Rome from a business trip to the States and the Caribbean. Below are some random observations:Los Angeles traffic continues to get worse. How is this possible.Target is great.J.Crew. What is happening? I've been a fan since the 80s. Something is amiss.Why is Ben and Jennifer's former nanny in the press so much? What is her end game? Reality show?Speaking of reality shows, what the heck is Hollywood Cycle?Ina Garten. Adore.Guy Fieri. Why so many shows, Food Network? Why?!My friend Erica posted this TIME magazine article that said Americans dressing like slobs equals freedom. Perhaps I have lived in Italy too long or I am turning into my Caribbean parents because I think that's absolutely ridiculous. Freedom? From what? The tyranny of Dior?The GOP debate. Fascinating. Trump was peak Trump.The flight attendants on Air France were very friendly and cheerful. It's a long flight from St. Martin to Paris (8.5 hours). Meanwhile, the American Airline attendants on the Miami to St. Martin flight (only 3 hours) not so much. Why?Portions in America are too big. I couldn't finish a single meal.The newish Restoration Hardware showroom in West Hollywood is odd. I don't get it. Is it just for the trade? Who thought it was a good idea to have a 40,000 sq ft store where you have to buy everything online or from the catalog? The scale is huge. How can any shopper, who doesn't live in a castle, envision that massive furniture in their home?It would never occur to me to combine these two things:
Second, in the past I have written about my Ferragosto issues. Despite living in Italy for seven years, I was very American when it come to vacations and/or taking a break from work.I said, "was" not "am." Finally, this year I get it. I cannot wait for August 15th. Truly.My trip was intense. I recently signed a Los Angeles based client and flew to Los Angeles direct from Rome. I have NEVER in my life been so happy to sit in a freezing cold plane for a thirteen-hour flight. The six week heatwave in Rome was warping my brain. There were rumblings about Alitalia striking that weekend. Thankfully, they didn't and I got an upgrade to Business Class. Nice.That upgrade made a huge difference. I had horrible jet leg during my trip to Los Angeles back in May. This time it was much better. I think it also helped that I walked to the Century City Mall shortly after arriving and stayed up until 10.30 p.m.While I was running around Los Angeles with my client, I had deliveries and construction happening in Rome for another client. Given the nine hour time difference, things were a little hectic. I was only in Los Angeles for a few days and on my client's schedule so I didn't see many friends or "do meetings".Then I fly to Miami. It was my first trip to the city. I need to return and see more of it. I really liked the vibe. I stayed at the Viceroy which was fantastic.Unfortunately, the design district is shrinking after LVHM bought out several blocks. It was still a productive trip. I sourced some great items for my Anguilla project.From Miami I flew to St. Martin. I said hello to my parents, and the next day took the ferry to Anguilla.After all the flying, unpacking, repacking, shopping, meeting with contractors, painters, carpenters, project managers, receiving texts from clients in Rome about things we need to do ASAP, etc. etc., I hit the wall on Saturday.While packing (again) I watch Flipping Out. Can we talk about this show? I have so many questions. I wish Bravo aired in Italy.I'm not complaining but a very strange thing happened during this trip. I do not feel guilty about looking forward to August 15th. Not one bit.Of course I'm not going completely cold turkey. There are quite a few back office things I need take care of during the break and meetings I must attend.I bought a stack of shelter magazines in the States and the book The Bee Cottage Story. I'm going to cut way back from the Internet and chill. I know September is going to be off the charts busy. Everyone returns to town and I'm looking for a new apartment. The latter will be an interesting process.I may not be able to Dolce Far Niente for two weeks but can try for at least two days. To prepare I need to put together a killer playlist which will include one of my favorite summer jams from August 1990.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzoEK545j64Buon Ferragosto!
Life in Rome - Buon Rientro and a Dolce Far Niente Progress Report
While my family and friends in the States are enjoying the last sunrays of Summer 2014 this Labor Day, it's Il Rientro here in Italy.This time I am ready!As I wrote earlier this summer, even after all the years I've lived here, I was still resistant to the European way of vacationing. I felt guilty and unproductive.Well, I am happy to report that major progress has been made regarding my efforts to partake in the great Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente. I'm not completely out of the workaholic woods yet but these things take time.I went to Siracusa, Sicily for my birthday, staying in the historic center called Ortigia. The first two days the Internet in my apartment was down, which was a blessing in disguise. I couldn't obsessively check my emails or read news headlines.When I arrived in Oritiga, I was a one big ball of stress. By the end of the week, I was so calm not even the chaos at the Catania airport and my delayed flight could wind me up.This calmness was short-lived as it ended by my first evening back in Rome but that's a different story.It was my first trip to this area of Sicily and just what the doctor ordered. I didn't realize how badly I needed a vacation until I had one. Yes, it was a short one but I still appreciated it.The architecture, design, history, and culture were inspiring. The food was on another level. My friend and her family just happened to be staying at an apartment around the corner.I will write more about my Sicilian adventures once I sort through all my photos.It took a few days into my trip for my major breakthrough. One morning I ditched my itinerary. I kept my plan to jog along the seawall at sunrise, and then hit the farmers' market after. That was it. I'll be honest. At first it was an odd sensation to not know exactly what I was going to do the rest of the day.When Erica called and invited me to lunch with her family at their place I said, "yes" instead of my usual freak out about impromptu plans.It was a glorious day of having a delicious lunch with my friends on their terrace (which had this view),
going to the "beach" (which was two block away),
reading my books and magazines while drinking a lot of homemade Tè Freddo con Limone Granita,
and enjoying the sweetness of doing nothing.I went on to enjoy this sweetness several times during the rest of my trip. I highly recommend it.
Dolce Far Niente (The Sweetness of Doing Nothing).
I wish I knew I how to do this.Trust me, this is not a humblebrag. You know when you ask someone how they're doing and they reply, "BUSY!"? Then they proceed to talk for twenty minutes about how busy they are?I used to do the BUSY thing all the time when I lived in Los Angeles. I broke out of that habit after living here a few years. When Italians ask, "how are you?", they really want to know. It's a conversation starter, not an opportunity to brag about how much work you do. Nobody wants to hear that mess unless you are at a work conference or something.While I have calmed down a bit since my big move, I still find myself feeling guilty for not working all the time. I know there are people who never stop. I did that during my Hollywood years but had nothing to show for it other than missed weddings back east, stress, and debt.So I know I wasn't healthy or happy during that time yet August in Rome continues to freak me out. This week my vendors are closing up for the summer. There is nothing I can do regarding deliveries, invoices, my projects, etc.Last year when I went to Salina, I had a view like this,
but I was constantly checking my emails and on the phone with my clients. However, that was in June. August is another story.In August I'm forced to slow down so why can't I just chill the heck out without feeling guilty about it? One of my favorite designers, Erin Gates of ELEMENTS OF STYLE, wrote a fantastic POST about the pressure we Americans put on ourselves to do it all.It's madness. I told myself that this year would be different. It's not. It's only the 6th and instead of reveling in the summer, I want September to get here already.My local caffe and many of my favorite restaurants are shutting down this week. Only the places catering to tourists will be opened. Most of my friends are gone and the rest are leaving next week. Tumbleweeds will roll down Lungotevere.I should try to follow my dad's example. He was an incredibly hard worker but he also knew how to relax. He truly appreciated the little vacation and down time he had. My mom also worked hard but NEVER relaxed. Even on her days off from work she was going, going, going. I used to think I was a combination of the two but no, I'm more like my mom. There's always something that must be done.I have my own company. You'd think I would be able to give myself a break and/or vacation. No, instead I think if don't burn the candle at both ends I won't be able to succeed, which means I won't be able to pay my rent, therefore I will end up living under the Ponte Sisto bridge.Okay, this summer I am going to break the cycle, dammit! I must do it for my mental, physical, and creative health.We'll see how the rest of the year shapes up as I start my quest to partake in the fine Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente.Any suggestions?