A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region
The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy. I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.
We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro. Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate. Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work. During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.
Our lunch was excellent. Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate. On a design note, it was perfection. Great service too.
We decide to take a power walk before dinner. I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests. I don't know why boars freak me out. Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive? I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such. I know this is not logical.
During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged. We had a wonderful time. The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious. You never know with communal dining. I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit. Tears. Instead we went old school and played records. John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl. I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap. EW&F is one of my favorite bands. I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period. Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F. This person was also a black American Gen-Xer. I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo. It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance. Paradise.
During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.
We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend. It was delicious, and very pretty.
I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time. I adore this small hill town.
The first time I was there was during the dead of winter. This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off. However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit. We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town. The views were just ridiculous. Hello, is this real life?
The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.
Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi. It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi. Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom. I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003. He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.
We ate lunch in the entoeca. Outstanding. The service was incredible. As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.
The sun was trying to make an appearance.
Monteverdi is an unique experience. There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades. However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo. Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.
Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day. When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning. I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.
If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Townhouse - Pienza, Tuscany
I've read about La Bandita, a country house near Pienza and have seen photos of it in various shelter magazines/design articles.A little over a year ago, John Voigtmann and his wife Ondine Cohane opened La Bandita Townhouse converting a former convent in center of Pienza into a 12-room boutique hotel.My friend Gillian and husband stayed there recently. She told me I had to see it in person. Gillian knows my taste and said I would love it.She was correct. I know people are sick and tired of decorators using words like swoon! obsessed! and dying! when describing interiors. However, let me say, I swooned when I saw my room. I was obsessed with the design of the kitchen and was dying over the views.I've written before about the mix. It's something you see frequently in French and Italian interiors. It's not easy to pull off. Sometimes the space is too modern for the architecture and it feels cold. Or the design is so faithful to the past, it's dated.Working with Florence based architects, Arianna Pieri and Ernesto Bartolini of DA.Studio, John and Ondine have created a lovely space. In a hotel, all the beauty in the world doesn't mean a thing if the service is awful. It was fantastic and I will write about a post about that and Pienza soon.I absolutely adore this type of décor. The same architects worked on Monteverdi with interiors by Ilaria Miani.i found out that one of the main resources for La Bandita Townhouse was the store Barthel. No wonder it spoke to me as we sourced most of the items for the bathrooms in our Tuscany project from Barthel.This was my room, number 12. I arrived late afternoon. The amount of light during the day is unreal. I love that they retained the stone wall. The view from the tub was sick. The Ortigia products were a nice touch, as were the free water and soda in the mini-bar.In my next apartment I would like a canopy bed. The colors, the lighting, the bed linens, I really didn't want to leave this room after two days.I have to ask if they have a room with a desk, because La Bandita is a perfect spot for writers.
Tears of happiness when i saw this huge shower stall. I really need to move.
Gorgeous. The main hallway is the first thing you see when you walk thru the door. The convent dates from the 1400s.
Again, stone walls. A lot of natural materials with pops of orange throughout.
This kitchen is everything. In the States open-plan kitchens are preferred but not in Italy (or the Caribbean). Notice the overhead window over the bar? It drops down. Once you close the door on the left of the bar, you have a closed kitchen that lets in light. A friend of mine, who lives in a loft in Rome, did something very similar. It's a brilliant idea.
An old map of Italy in the library/lounge.
I was very excited to see so many classic LPs in different genres. I could've stayed up all night listening to music. I still have some vinyl and for my next apartment (I know, I know) I will buy a turntable.
You know how I feel about books and magazines. It was freezing outside. It was nice to curl up on the sofa and just chill.
John is former music industry executive. Some of his gold records sit on top of the bookcase.
Aperitivi time!
John has said he and Ondine wanted to create a beautiful, comfortable hotel where people could come to relax and enjoy Tuscany. They have. La Bandita is a special place. I cannot wait to return during warmer weather so I can eat outside on their fantastic terrace.Photos: (except for the one of the kitchen and of the bookcase) me and my iPhone.Click HERE to see more from La Bandita's great photo gallery.
La Bandita Townhouse
Weekend Inspiration - Shower - Monteverdi, Tuscany
What a week.Just when you think Italian politics couldn't be more confusing or bizarre, they are. I have no idea what is going to happen now. Maybe we'll have new elections.The Pope said good-bye yesterday. The city is packed with tourists who came to see him for the last time. Cardinals are flying in for the conclave and there are journalists in town from all over the world.Work-wise, things were hectic. I'm not sure how it's Friday already.Yesterday, Domenico and I drove up to Tuscany to visit the job site and to meet with our client who flew in from Germany. Normally, we would stay overnight but we decided to make it a day trip and left Rome at 6:30 a.m.It was a very long day. At one point my brain said, "BASTA!" and refused to cooperate. It was around the time I was asking the contractor questions in Italian and then translating his answers into English.On the drive back home, all I could think about was taking a long shower, getting in my PJs, and then watching Law and Order SVU reruns on Fox Crime (I have a thing for Detective Stabler).I wish I had a shower like this:
Unfortunately, I do not.The shower in the photo was designed by Ilaria Miani for Monteverdi. Monteverdi is a group of rental villas and a hotel in the small village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in Tuscany.Stunning. I hope to check it out sometime later this year.In the meantime, Stabler and I will be relaxing this weekend.Buon Weekend!