I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.

I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy.  I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy.  I couldn't wait to leave both times.  The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me.  Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work.  My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage?  I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place.  I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets.  It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch.  He couldn't have cared less.  Our mutual friend, had the same experience.  She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence.  She told me I needed to return to the city.  That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip.  My friends who live in Florence said the same thing.  I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about.  August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.No, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi).   It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence.  In my defense, I wasn't the only one.  A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell.  She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students.  Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then.  How could it be?  I was there for four days max.  They live there.  They know Florence.  Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time.  I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed.  Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop.  I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno".  He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me.  Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return.  I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains.  Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at  Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto.  Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year.  I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money.   I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy.  These ravioli were light and delicious.   The waiters were lovely.  It was the perfect birthday lunch.I met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede.  She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company.  I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto.  It's my kind of place.  I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos.  I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards.   Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.I met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning.  Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence.  Currently, she lives in Florence full-time.  The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago.  We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day.  It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in.  I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.This was my first time visiting the church San Spirito.   No pictures are allowed inside.   Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.Georgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there.  We did.   The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.I went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat.  The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy.   I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel.  It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center.  The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.I took the fast train home.  Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.There are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence.  Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit.  If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip.  A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met.  I cannot wait to return.Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.     

Life in Rome - Chez Dédé Opening Party

A few years ago I wrote about how much I adore the boutique accessories label founded by Andrea Ferolla and Daria Rein, Chez Dédé.There has been a lot of retail space turnover in our neighborhood.  Antique stores, artisans, etc., are shutting down and Subway fast food restaurants, and other weird sandwich shops are taking over.  There have been some great additions, like the Suppli spot but for every one of those there are four or five  places that leave locals scratching their heads.Via Monserrato is one of the prettiest streets in Rome.  When I saw the large for rent sign where Ilaria MIani's showroom used to be, I became very nervous.  What kind of janky business would set up shop on this street?Then I saw this:YAS!The store had its opening last week. Erica and I walked over and bumped into a bunch of our neighbors. One of our favorite bartenders, Fabrizio from Pierluigi, made the Kir Royales.Unfortunately, for me, the store is stunning.  I should just leave my wallet there and let them take my money.  All of it.Erica completely fan-girled LInda Rodin. I don't blame her.  Ms. Rodin is a style icon for a reason. She was so gracious and didn't give us the side-eye for geeking out.I think I need to treat myself to a nice Grand Sac bag for my birthday.  It's a big one (no, I'm not going to say which birthday it is as I still work in Hollywood).  I haven't decided which bag yet. The island of Salina is one of my favorite places in the world but I also love the colors/style of the Portofino, Kenya, and Dubai bags.  I haven't been to any of those places, so I think I should go with the Salina bag.Below are photos from the opening.  Grazie mille, Daria for the invite!EDIT:Okay, I wrote this yesterday with the plan to publish today. I like to proof read before publishing yet, some typos still make it through. Grrrr.On Saturday my friend Courtney called me and said she had to speak with me urgently on Sunday.  I asked what was wrong. Why couldn't she tell me over the phone?  I was working all day on Sunday but said I would meet her in the afternoon.  Erica wanted me to stop by her daughter's lemonade stand. I said I was on my way to meet Courtney but would stop by. I was worried about Courtney.  Erica said she was too and hoped that everything was okay.I show up at Etablli.  Courtney sends a SMS saying she's on her way and she asks me to order her a glass of wine. What the heck was going on? Was her news so heavy she needed to have a drink in hand?She walks in and Erica (!) is right behind her.  They say, "Happy Birthday" and then this happened:I had no idea they were planning this!  Erica thought I was going to buy the bag before my birthday so she and Courtney went into action over the weekend.  My birthday isn't until August 26th.I was/am floored.  I am not an easy person to surprise and they totally got me.  Well played ladies, well played.  I love my bag. Andrea is a very talented illustrator.Linda Rodin. Fabulous.Erica and Linda.So true. Photos: Me and my iPhone

Buon Weekend - The Last Weekend Of Summer

Autumn starts on Sunday.  You can feel it.  The air is crisp in the morning and the days are getting shorter.I did not make it to Sperlonga or Santa Marinella once this summer.  I need to get my Spaghetti Con Vongole on at the beach this weekend before it's too late.Buon weekend!Gaeta, Italy

Buon Weekend - Il Rientro

After a very long summer, Il Riento is upon us.  My friend Erica wrote eloquently about the return of vacationing Italians HERE.I hope everyone had a great summer.  Mine was weird.  Seriously.  Next year there WILL be some changes.For example, next time I go Anguilla I will not work the entire time.I will not spend hot ass August in Rome.  Instead I hope to rent a place near Marina di Pietrasanta.I went to the Tuscan coast last weekend for my birthday.  It was my first time there (pics later).  It was lovely.  I wish I could have stayed longer.Not sure if this song was a hit in America, but it was huge in Europe. It will always remind of this summer.Buon weekend a tutti!![youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EVhiBGvVFc&w=640&h=360]  

Lo Shopping - My Interview With Eating Italy

The folks at Eating Italy asked me some questions regarding shopping in Rome for their Rome Confidential series. Grazie a tutti!

HERE are my answers.

Work In Progress - Beach House - Anguilla, British West Indies

"Soon Come."This Caribbean expression is very similar to the Italian word, domani.   Technically,  domani means tomorrow, but in Italy it could mean months or years from now.  The concept of time is very different.Soon come is the same thing."When is your tio (uncle) visiting from the States?""Soon come."When I was a child, I assumed this meant that the gentleman would be on the next flight.  No, he may arrive tomorrow, or December 2013. Yesterday, I met with my clients and their builder.  The house is moving along."When will the exterior be finished?""Soon come".It's not easy to build on a tiny island thanks to the elements (hurricane season is no joke), sourcing of materials, and high labor costs.Depending on a variety of factors out of my client's hands, the house could be done in eight months or ???.We'll see.   Soon come.