Seven Days of Sicily - Day One - The Duomo
During my trip to Ortigia, I saw many beautiful things and ate many dishes that were so delicious I wanted to Tweet/IG/FB about them immediately.However, one of my goals during my vacation was to slow down. I wanted to focus on what I was seeing, doing, eating at that moment. I did occasionally post a picture on social media but cut way back.My friend, Erica, is also a Sicily fan and we decided to highlight a few things we love about this incredible island for seven days. You can following Erica on Instagram HERE.First up is the Duomo.I arrived in Ortigia during the early afternoon. After unpacking, and picking up some essential groceries, I walked over to the Duomo.I was not ready.Many friends have described the Duomo and its piazza as one of their favorites in all of Italy. Yet, I was still floored by her beauty, color, and presence. It is truly one of the most magnificent buildings I have ever seen.As with other regions of Italy, the layers of history in Sicily run deep. Siracusa was one of greatest and important cities in the Greek empire. This dramatic cathedral was built in and around a 5th Century BC Doric Temple to Athena. Doric columns are visible inside and outside the church.In the 800s it was converted into a mosque by the Arabs who conquered Sicily. Then the Byzantines returned to power, only to be defeated by the Arabs again. They ruled until the Normans defeated them in 1085.The Baroque facade was added after the devastating earthquake of 1693. Somehow this very ornate style sits in perfect harmony with the Greek lines and aesthetics of the earlier structure.I made it a point to see this building every single day.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
This piazza is a perfect place to relax as the sun goes down and the locals start their passeggiata.
Life in Rome - Buon Rientro and a Dolce Far Niente Progress Report
While my family and friends in the States are enjoying the last sunrays of Summer 2014 this Labor Day, it's Il Rientro here in Italy.This time I am ready!As I wrote earlier this summer, even after all the years I've lived here, I was still resistant to the European way of vacationing. I felt guilty and unproductive.Well, I am happy to report that major progress has been made regarding my efforts to partake in the great Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente. I'm not completely out of the workaholic woods yet but these things take time.I went to Siracusa, Sicily for my birthday, staying in the historic center called Ortigia. The first two days the Internet in my apartment was down, which was a blessing in disguise. I couldn't obsessively check my emails or read news headlines.When I arrived in Oritiga, I was a one big ball of stress. By the end of the week, I was so calm not even the chaos at the Catania airport and my delayed flight could wind me up.This calmness was short-lived as it ended by my first evening back in Rome but that's a different story.It was my first trip to this area of Sicily and just what the doctor ordered. I didn't realize how badly I needed a vacation until I had one. Yes, it was a short one but I still appreciated it.The architecture, design, history, and culture were inspiring. The food was on another level. My friend and her family just happened to be staying at an apartment around the corner.I will write more about my Sicilian adventures once I sort through all my photos.It took a few days into my trip for my major breakthrough. One morning I ditched my itinerary. I kept my plan to jog along the seawall at sunrise, and then hit the farmers' market after. That was it. I'll be honest. At first it was an odd sensation to not know exactly what I was going to do the rest of the day.When Erica called and invited me to lunch with her family at their place I said, "yes" instead of my usual freak out about impromptu plans.It was a glorious day of having a delicious lunch with my friends on their terrace (which had this view),
going to the "beach" (which was two block away),
reading my books and magazines while drinking a lot of homemade Tè Freddo con Limone Granita,
and enjoying the sweetness of doing nothing.I went on to enjoy this sweetness several times during the rest of my trip. I highly recommend it.
Weekend Inspiration - Muriel Brandolini's Pool - Hamptons, NY
I wonder if we could re-set this week.Every time I turned on the news in the morning before my workout, there was some horrific, sad, or tragic breaking news.I had to look at something relaxing and beautiful. A picture of interior designer Muriel Brandolini's pool, featured in Architectural Digest was just what I needed.When I read the issue, this page jumped out at me. How stunning is this pool?
I don't swim (long story) but I could see myself enjoying the pool and the views.It's important to be informed about what is happening in the world. We must also remember to appreciate beauty in the world as well.Buon Ferragosto!
Dolce Far Niente (The Sweetness of Doing Nothing).
I wish I knew I how to do this.Trust me, this is not a humblebrag. You know when you ask someone how they're doing and they reply, "BUSY!"? Then they proceed to talk for twenty minutes about how busy they are?I used to do the BUSY thing all the time when I lived in Los Angeles. I broke out of that habit after living here a few years. When Italians ask, "how are you?", they really want to know. It's a conversation starter, not an opportunity to brag about how much work you do. Nobody wants to hear that mess unless you are at a work conference or something.While I have calmed down a bit since my big move, I still find myself feeling guilty for not working all the time. I know there are people who never stop. I did that during my Hollywood years but had nothing to show for it other than missed weddings back east, stress, and debt.So I know I wasn't healthy or happy during that time yet August in Rome continues to freak me out. This week my vendors are closing up for the summer. There is nothing I can do regarding deliveries, invoices, my projects, etc.Last year when I went to Salina, I had a view like this,
but I was constantly checking my emails and on the phone with my clients. However, that was in June. August is another story.In August I'm forced to slow down so why can't I just chill the heck out without feeling guilty about it? One of my favorite designers, Erin Gates of ELEMENTS OF STYLE, wrote a fantastic POST about the pressure we Americans put on ourselves to do it all.It's madness. I told myself that this year would be different. It's not. It's only the 6th and instead of reveling in the summer, I want September to get here already.My local caffe and many of my favorite restaurants are shutting down this week. Only the places catering to tourists will be opened. Most of my friends are gone and the rest are leaving next week. Tumbleweeds will roll down Lungotevere.I should try to follow my dad's example. He was an incredibly hard worker but he also knew how to relax. He truly appreciated the little vacation and down time he had. My mom also worked hard but NEVER relaxed. Even on her days off from work she was going, going, going. I used to think I was a combination of the two but no, I'm more like my mom. There's always something that must be done.I have my own company. You'd think I would be able to give myself a break and/or vacation. No, instead I think if don't burn the candle at both ends I won't be able to succeed, which means I won't be able to pay my rent, therefore I will end up living under the Ponte Sisto bridge.Okay, this summer I am going to break the cycle, dammit! I must do it for my mental, physical, and creative health.We'll see how the rest of the year shapes up as I start my quest to partake in the fine Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente.Any suggestions?
A New York City Rooftop Pool With A View
My friends in Rome are probably sick of hearing me go on and on about wanting a terrace.Well, that would be some of my friends who already have terraces. I don't think they appreciate how wonderful having a terrace is. One friend rarely uses his. I cannot understand this! Trust, once I have my terrace I will be out there all the time, even in the snow.Okay, that was an exaggeration as it snows here maybe once every twenty years or so.I don't need a huge space. Nor, a pool. However, if I had a chance to live in Keith Jacobson's home, featured in New York Magazine, I would.
A penthouse with views of the High Line? Yes.An outdoor kitchen? Yes.A full bathroom with an outdoor shower? Yes.Designed by Francis D’Haene, founder of D’Apostrophe Design and his colleague, Patrocinio Binuya, this rooftop was almost too much for me to handle in my terrace-less state.Yet, I still looked at the photos.
The landscape design was done by Miguel Pons.
Photos by David Allee
I'm glad they spared us photos of the cocktail bar.
Weekend Inspiration - Starburst Textile - Peter Dunham
Continuing with the Peter Dunham theme, this weekend's inspiration is his Starburst print. This hand-printed fabric would be perfect in a beach house.
Photo: Peter Dunham Textiles
Speaking of beach houses, I wish I were going to one this weekend!Buon weekend a tutti.
Bigger Is Not Always Better - Peter Dunham's West Hollywood Home
Meeting Peter Dunham was one of the highlights of Kathryn M. Ireland's Design Workshop. I have adored his textiles and design for ages and was excited to see his showroom. He was lovely.I think it's very interesting that he downsized. When I lived in Los Angeles, most of my peers in entertainment were all about getting to the next level. You had to have the right address, the right car, and even if your house was perfect, the minute you could afford to (or not) you would upgrade to a bigger, better, house.In this month's issue of HOUSE BEAUTIFUL, there is a great interview (and slideshow) with Peter. He talks about why he moved from a house that was 3,500 square-feet to an apartment that is only 550 square-feet.Living in a tiny space forces you to edit. You cannot surround yourself with just "stuff."There is some fantastic design advice for small spaces in the article. You can read it HERE and check out more photos of his charming home.
Weekend Inspiration - Word Crimes - Weird Al Yankovic
The news this week has been horrible.I'm up at 3:00 a.m. I cannot sleep. I must remind myself not to look at Breaking News before I go to bed.This week Weird Al Yankovic (yes, he's still around) has dropped his new parody album. While "Tacky" was quite funny, "Word Crimes", a parody of "Blurred Lines", is my favorite so far.I needed to see and hear something light as we head into what is going to be a very stressful weekend.[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Gv0H-vPoDc&w=560&h=315]
Weekend Inspiration - Borromini - Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza
I see the top of this church every time I walk across the piazza near my house. Built from 1642-1660, it's a classic work of Baroque architecture. The architect was Francesco Borromini, aka arch enemy of Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Photo: me with my iPhone
While I am down for Bernini, it's unfortunate that Borromini is not appreciated more. His contemporaries were perceived as being stronger visual artists. Borromini's strength was more technical but that doesn't mean we should overlook the beauty of his buildings.Borromini was extremely difficult to work with and often depressed. He committed suicide in 1667.This church is just one of his masterpieces and it inspires me.Buon weekend!
Stylish Simplicity - Como Glasses - Paola Navone for Crate & Barrel
I've written before regarding how much I adore the collection Italian architect/furniture and interior designer Paola Navone has created exclusively for the American store Crate & Barrel.Her new collection is out. My siblings were kind enough to give me a gift certificate to Crate & Barrel and I had to get these glasses.
Now they are sitting at my sister's house. One day they'll make it to Rome.I love the color of the rim and the lines of the glass. Very simple and very stylish.
Stylish Simplicity - Eres Bikini (and a short rant)
Today's edition of Stylish Simplicity highlights the ERES bikini.
Work it J.Lo
Photo. Vogue June 2012
This French brand has some of the most beautiful bathing suits on the planet... classic and well made.
I never wore a bikini until I moved to Italy. NEVER. I grew up seeing magazine covers constantly saying, "Get A Beach Ready Body!" or tabloid headlines that screamed, "Worst Beach Bodies!" In Los Angeles many of my colleagues gleefully ripped celebrities to shreds, calling them fat and what not. Celebrities who were no larger than a size 4.
What's the point of starving oneself for the season? What happens once the summer is over, back to bad eating habits? I blame the Puritans for this madness.
The first time I went to the beach here I was stunned by the variety of shapes, sizes, and ages wearing bikinis and Speedos. Italians were chilling, just doing their thing. I stood out with my very sensible one-piece for a woman of a "certain age."
How do my friends in Italy get ready for beach season? They put on a bathing suit and go to the beach.
I'm not sure what made me decide to take the plunge and finally buy my first bikini. In the fitting room, I told the saleslady there wasn't enough coverage on top. She looked at me like I had two heads. She said that's the way a bikini was supposed to fit. I was skeptical.
The day came when my Eres bikini and I went out in public. The world didn't stop spinning. The Italians couldn't care less. The only reason I stood out is because I was one of the few people of color on the beach not selling a trinket.
Now my sensible one-pieces (which actually made me look heavier) are sitting at the back of my closet. To me function is just as important as style. A two-piece is more practical than a one-piece.
I wish I could go back and talk to my critical younger self. I'd tell her to get a grip, just go to the darn beach, and enjoy herself.
Life in Rome - Doria Pamphilj Galleria
I chuckle when I read articles telling tourists they can see Rome in a day.I have lived here for six years and visited regularly for three years prior and I still haven't seen everything this city has to offer.One of the places on my list was the Galleria Doria Pamphilj . Note: Sometimes the name is spelled with a "i".I have been to the café several times but never to the museum. Last week I finally went.Bellissimo. It's the largest palazzo in Rome that is still owned by the family. There are free audio guides (subject to availability). Prince Jonathan Pamphilj's narration is fantastic. He really makes the rooms come alive and it's very interesting to hear his stories about growing up in the palazzo. Jonathan and his family live in one of the apartments on the upper level of the palazzo, as does his sister Gesine and her family.There are over 550 works of art. The Doria Pamphilj family has one of the biggest private art collections in Rome. Fortunately for art lovers, the collection is opened to the public.For me the highlights were the Caravaggios, the ballroom, and the Velázquez.
Photos: Doria Pamphilj
DETAILSOpen every day from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.Last entry 6.00 p.m.Closed: 25th December, 1st January, Easter.We inform our visitors that the Palazzo Doria Pamphili is open to the public November 1st, April 25th, May 1st.TICKETSFull price: €11,00 (audio guide included – subject to availability)Concessions or Groups, children and young adults between 6 and 26 years old: €7.50Schools/ University: 5,00 €Concessions for school groups with prior reservation by fax or e-mail : info@dopart.it ; biglietteria@dopart.itAll cards are accepted except Am.Ex & DinersCONTACTSEntrance: Via del Corso, 305 – RomeTel: +39 06 / 6797323Fax: +39 06 / 6780939E-mail: info@dopart.itWebsite: www.dopart.it
Weekend Inspiration - Yellow and Blue - CuisinArt, Anguilla BWI
The island of St. Martin is in the background
How pretty is this yellow and blue? I was having lunch at the CuisinArt hotel in Anguilla and had to snap this picture.Yellow can be a difficult color to work with but I hope to use it in my beach house project.Buon Weekend a tutti!
Stylish Simplicity - White Jeans
Today is Festa della Repubblica in Italy. It's similar to July 14th in France or the 4th of July in the United States of America. It's a three day weekend. While most of my friends went out of town, I stayed behind in the city.I've just returned from checking in on my Anguilla project. Before I left, the weather in Rome was awful... constant rain and chilly.Now, summer is here. The days are getting longer and folks have busted out their white jeans.I used to avoid white jeans because I thought my thighs were too "thick" for them. I now know it's all about the cut and what I'm wearing as a top.I love this summer look. It's so stylish and simple. Below are five favorites:The one, the only, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis.
The lovely Garance Doré photographed by her man, Scott Schuman (aka The Satorialist).
Zoe Saldana. Really like the color of her blazer.
Photo: trendmill.com
Geraldine Saglio from FRENCH VOGUE. Those shoes!
Photo: gastrochic.com
Molto chic.
Photo: thebestfashionblog.com
Life In Rome - Palazzo Nardini
I've written before about my fascination with abandoned houses.On Via del Governo Vechhio there's an empty palazzo that I've walked by many times. Unlike some other big cities I've lived in, there are very few vacant buildings in the center of Rome. So much so that they truly stand out.One morning I noticed there were riot police at the end of the block. The doors of the building were opened and there was a large group of protesters inside. They were demanding that the county (which owns the property) renovate the space into affordable housing. I doubt that will happen given the location, red tape, and costs.Built in the late 1400s by Cardinal Stefano Nardiini, I had to check it out.
I had no idea that this building was so large.
I hope something wonderful happens with this space. It's a shame that it's just sitting there, empty.
Io Adoro - The Face
When certain people get on their high horse and say they never watch reality TV because everything sucks, in my head, I'm rolling my eyes. That's similar to saying they don't read novels because FIFTY SHADES OF GREY was terrible.As with any form of entertainment, there are great reality shows and then the ones that are pure garbage. Regarding the latter I'm not talking about the ones that are so bad they're good, but are truly awful. They're either boring or showcase the worst stereotypes of the protagonists.I tend to watch shows where people are making something or doing something, like TOP CHEF, PROJECT RUNWAY, CAKE BOSS, MASTERCHEF ITALIA, ONE BRYK AT A TIME, CERCO CASA DISPERATAMENTE, (hmm lots of cooking and decorating shows), etc.Since SKY Cable dropped the E! channel, my reality show intake has dropped. That channel used to air most of the Bravo shows. Tears.THE FACE, the USA version, started airing in Italy a few months ago on Sky Uno. I missed the first few episodes. During one rainy (basta!) Sunday afternoon I happened to catch two episodes and I was hooked.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQ_NQ2rXuF4&w=560&h=315]The format of this show is brilliant. The wanna-be models are broken up into three teams with one of the supermodels coaching them.Of course, nobody would watch a show that was all about rainbows and unicorns, so yes there is drama. Naomi played to win and Coco and Karolina sometimes seemed like they didn't know what hit them.The UK version, which is currently on the air, is a little different. Erin and Caroline give Naomi a run for her money.[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ksj21gNypzs&w=560&h=315]I don't understand why Tyra fired noted photographer™ Nigel Barker and Miss J. I was so glad to see Nigel on the USA version of THE FACE.Could someone please hook up Miss J. with a show?
Weekend Inspiration - Roses - Rome, Italy
One of my favorite spots in Rome is finally opened.If you plan to be in Rome before June 15th, I highly recommend a visit. It's opened from 8:30 - 19:30. Entrance is free.Buon weekend!
Weekend Inspiration - Tulips - Park Avenue, New York City
I can tell Spring is really here despite the cold (actually freezing) mornings and the rain. My allergies are on a different level this year. I do not approve.It's Easter weekend. When I was very young this meant a new Easter outfit. We're talking the full enchilada - dress, shoes, gloves, and a HAT!!! This also meant going to an extra long Easter Sunday service but usually the coffee hour after (Methodists don't play) was outstanding.Like many of our other traditions, this one ended once we moved to the suburbs. I know one reason was because I was getting older and nobody really dressed up for Easter in our suburb after a certain age.Another reason for the change was cultural. Our church in Verona was the complete opposite of our church in New York City. Very few people in our town would wear an Aretha Franklin type hat to church.
In the mid 70's my parents' friends and relatives starting fleeing the economically devastated and crime ridden City. Everyone was so spread out. No longer could we walk, take a cab, or just hop on the subway to visit. Now there were long car rides to Westchester County, Long Island, Bergen County, etc.Occasionally, we did make it back into the City. One of my favorite signs of Spring were the tulips on Park Avenue. Years later, after college and career number one, I finally made it back to my hometown and would walk up Park as soon as the tulips were in bloom.Recently I've become much more nostalgic during the holidays. I think it's because I live so far away from my family. My siblings now have their own traditions with their families and I don't.The forecast calls for rain tomorrow. I will buy some tulips.Buon weekend e Buona Pasqua!
Weekend Inspiration - Happy - Pharrell Williams
Yesterday the UN, and people all over the world, celebrated International Day of Happiness.Given all the horrible things happening here on planet Earth, it would be very easy to shrug and think there's nothing to be happy about.Sometimes when I'm in a very good mood, I get a little freaked out. Why am I in a good mood? I should be cynical, depressed, and anxious. It's as if I have no right to be happy. I meet a lot of expats in Rome. Many are not happy and are suspicious of those who are. Being happy is not "keeping it real." We end up fueling each others' fire.One of my dear friends said I should avoid miserable people. Why get sucked into their constant negativity and pessimism? True, we all have bad days, weeks, even months, but as I get older I find I have less patience for people who complain ALL the time but never do anything to change/improve their situation.I tend to worry a lot, mostly about my future. How will I pay my bills? Will my business continue to grow? Will I ever be fluent in Italian? Why is Drake so popular? I lie awake at night and dwell on things I have no control over. This is not healthy and I'm working on it.When I'm happy it's not because anything has really changed. I still have the same bills, worries, and issues. However, sometimes I do remember that I am extremely fortunate in ways that cannot be measured in dollars or euros.It won't be easy but I'm going to try my best to do the opposite of what I normally do, which is to worry and complain.Another friend proclaimed that this was going to be a great year. Based on what? Nothing. She believes it and therefore is going to do everything in her power to make it so.I like the why she thinks.Buon weekend!(I adore this video. I have to restrain myself from dancing when I hear this song while jogging.)[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6Sxv-sUYtM&w=560&h=315]
It's All About Sicily In Fathom Magazine
The award-winning Fathom Magazine is celebrating Sicily this week. I'm trilled that I get to join in the festivities.
My article is about Sicily and the solo traveler.When I booked my trip, I didn't think it was a big deal that I was traveling alone. Then once everyone and their mother kept saying, "Wow, you're going to Sicily by yourself?!", I started to get nervous.You can read about my Sicilian adventures HERE.The entire series is fantastic. I want to book a trip now.