My Return to Sicily
Hello, my name is Arlene Antoinette Gibbs and I have a Sicily problem.It's bad. Every time I go, i wish I could stay longer. There's so much of the island I haven't seen yet, for example the entire West Coast, the interior, and other islands like Stromboli, Lampedusa, etc. etc.This time I was on the island for a week, Mt. Etna then Ortigia, for vacation (and to celebrate my birthday)."It's good to back," I said to Rosa, the newish manager, when I walked into the reception room at Monaci delle Terre Nere. Last year I wrote about Monaci and my first trip to the Sicilian mainland for FATHOM.This time I stayed in the Floreale room.
The bathroom!
Photos: Monaci The view from my balcony.
Lunch was served by the pool.The first time I went to Monaci, it was raining and winter so I had no idea how spectacular the views were. The grounds are gorgeous.
The main villa at sunset. I would like to decorate a Sicilian villa one day.
One morning I jogged around the forty acre property. Most of the food served at Monaci comes from their organic gardens. There is a huge chicken coop. I hesitate to call it a coop. It's more like a palace as it's bigger than my apartment. Lucky chickens.The breakfast spread was serious. On the other side were eggs, cheeses, salumi, cakes, breads, cereals, and many other things I didn't have a chance to try.
I had to buy a jar of their honey. Fifteen percent of the honey made in Italy comes from this small town.
I had some great Sicilian wines. I love their aperitivi. Although there were more guests during this trip (the hotel was at full occupancy) fewer people went to the aperitivi. Perhaps they thought it wasn't child appropriate?
Several rooms, located a few meters from the main house, have been renovated now. The atmosphere during high season was completely different from off-season. There were lots of families and half the tourists were American.I had a moment with a fellow American guest who was so rude, it took my breath away. I believe I had a strong reaction to her snub because it was completely out of context. The vibe at Monaci is very friendly and chill. The owners, Guido and Ada, are lovely and as are the other people who work there. For this basic lady to not understand that said a lot about her.As soon as I sat down with my book by the pool, I got over it. I was in a beautiful place and no one was going to put a damper on that.A slight scent of Sicilian jasmine, and lavender filled the air. There were roosters in the background and sometimes the volcano "groaned", loudly. It was very relaxing despite the sounds coming from Mt. Etna.A grazie mille to Rosa, Sara, Federico, Nujuan, Salvatore, and of course Guido and Ada for helping make this the best birthday ever.Note: My room was in the main villa and on the same floor as the kitchen. I'm an early riser, so I never heard a peep from the kitchen or from the downstairs reception area.From Monaci, I went to Oritigia. This time I rented an apartment on the other side of the village. I couldn't understand why it was cheaper than my place from last year. It had a terrace with a partial sea view.It's because that side of the town wasn't completely regentrified, yet.As you can see in the photos below, some of the buildings are derelict and the empty former prison is on the left. I liked being only two blocks away from the farmers market but can see how that might not be appealing.I had to work a bit during my vacation but at least I had a view.
Love the old faded tiles on the right.
Before unpacking, I ran out to get pick up some yogurt, wine, and other important things. All of a sudden I heard my name and it was X, Erica's daughter. Once again, without planning it, our apartments were only blocks away from each other.The tiny piazza in front of my building at night.
The architecture here is incredible. Remember to look up.
My friends at Casa Mia wrote about Tabaré (Sicilian dialect for tray) and I had to check it out. It's a must.
On my birthday we went to Arenella beach. We got there early and scored great beach chairs, second row. It was my first trip to a Sicilian beach and I had a great time. I love how people of all shapes and sizes rock bikinis and Speedos.
Later that night we went to dinner. In Italy when it's your birthday and you invite people to celebrate with you, you pay. It makes sense to me. You're the host. I have some American friends who really have an issue with this custom but it's not just an Italian thing. In the Caribbean if you invite people out for your birthday, you pay. I get it if you're in your early 20s and you meet at a bar or something. However, by your 40s/50s and up, the whole invite people to celebrate you and then expect them to pay is a little odd to me.
After dinner Erica insisted on treating me to a post dinner drink in the main piazza. This is probably one of my favorite churches and piazzas in Italy. It is ridiculously beautiful.
I was worked up about this birthday but in the end, it turned out to be a perfect day. Thank you, Ms. Firpo and Ms. Arya.I've been back for less than two weeks and I'm already trying to figure out when I can return. I'm tempted to join one of my friends in Rome who has to go to there for work in October. Seriously.Photos (except for the first two): me and my iPhone
Getting Your Home Ready for Spring - My Fabric Picks for Decorative Pillows
I hope you had a lovely holiday weekend.It's still a little chilly here in Rome but I know better than to complain about it. Our weather is almost tropical compared to some parts of the States.Growing up in NY/NJ I looked forward to saying, "peace out" to winter and getting ready for spring. While some of my chores were not fun, I enjoyed helping my parents prep our home.Once I moved to Los Angeles I didn't have to worry about such things. There are seasons but the changes are subtle. Nothing drastic like mountains of snow and not a single sunny day in February.One thing I appreciate about living in Rome is having "real" seasons again but without the bone chilling North East winters.I've written before about how my mom did not play when it came to keeping a clean house. Spring cleaning was like Oscars week for her. I get it. She grew up in the Caribbean and never got used to the weather. After a long brutal winter, it's nice to open all the windows and let your home breathe.I don't like heights, so I would ask my dad if I could pass on cleaning the gutters. I loved working in the garden with him. What I didn't love so much... changing the draperies. They were heavy and we had a LOT of windows when we lived in New York City and when we moved out to suburban New Jersey. I couldn't avoid ladders completely. Once the drapes were down, they were off to the dry cleaners and my mom and I would put up pretty Spring/Summer curtains.After a thorough cleaning, it's on to the next step.Along with swapping out heavy draperies and bed lines (goodbye thick duvets!), pillows are an easy way to bring some Spring into your home. I'd rather make custom pillows but if you don't have time to pick out fabric, stores like West Elm, Crate and Barrel, and IKEA have some fantastic and affordable choices. Like this Ella Square from Crate and Barrel.
If you go the custom route, below are my some of my favorites for Spring/Summer 2015:Dedar's Rataplan. A very pretty and interesting take on stripes. I'm seeing a glass (or two) of Franciacorta with this print.
Peter Dunham's Peterazzi in Pale Indigo. This silvery blue says Spring and a nice chilled white wine from Agrigento, Sicily.
Kathryn M. Ireland's Brianza from her Summer in France line. This would look great against a white linen sofa and with a glass of Rosé.
For a more graphic design, Kelly Wearstler's Groundworks line for Lee Jofa is gorgeous. I'm thinking a Martini for this one.
Also from Lee Jofa, David Hicks' La Fiorentina Red. A Negroni cocktail (which was invented in Florence) would be perfect.
Here is everything (and I mean everything) you need to know about Spring Cleaning from the one and only Martha Stewart. It's a good thing.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 7 - Art + Design
Why do I miss Sicily? There are Sicilian restaurants in Rome.Perhaps this is only an infatuation. My first trip to Sicily was just last year, which I wrote about in FATHOM. Maybe the island will lose its hold on me after a few more trips, or years. We'll see.Like the cuisine, the art and architecture of Sicily has been influenced by the diverse cultures of its various rulers.Every day I stopped by to see the Burial of Santa Lucia, painted by Caravaggio in 1608, located in the Santa Lucia alla Badia church. There is something very special about seeing art in the context that it was created for.In the early 2000's many architects and interior designers started to buy and renovate houses in the area. I kept getting lost in little courtyards and side streets. There was inspiration all around me and design elements that gave me some ideas for my Caribbean beach house project.Below are a few of my favorite things:How pretty is this packaging? I received a gift from this store on my birthday. Erica's daughter picked it out. That five year-old has excellent taste.
Photo: ortigiasicily.com
As someone who was raised Methodist, I'm still thrown by some of the more intense art in Catholic churches. My childhood church had stained glass with images of things like Jesus chilling with some shepherds.
Here is the patron saint of Siracusa, Santa Lucia.
Clever use of a satellite dish.
Spiderman on the side of the Municipal Building representing the heroic spirit of the people. I'm trying to find out who the artist is and when the work was installed.
Cool planter outside a house that faces the sea.
Rome-based artist UNO and his latest installation.
Also from Rome, Alice Pasquini. Erica and I went to see her and UNO work on their murals. This is a school in Siracusa.
The new and the old.
I saw these fishing baskets all over my neighborhood.
Love the door.
And this gate.
This alley showing a sliver of the sea was up the street.
I'm thinking about my next trip. Maybe I should go to Palermo or Cefalù, or both.
Photos, unless noted otherwise, are by me and my iPhone.
Seven Day of Sicily - Day 5 - Ceramics
Sicily is known for its hand painted pottery.Like the cuisine, each region has it's own style. I have to ask Erica where she bought her octopus plate. I think it was somewhere near Cefalù.As I have stated before, I have no more room in my apartment, so I was only able to buy a few small bowls.I used one of the them in the photos that Gina took of the terrace project I worked on.
The larger blue and white bowl and the little eggshell one (for salt or jam) were bought at a small workshop located right on my street. Ceramiche Artiginali DoLù, Via Larga, 7 Ortigia +39 0931 449451
The other bowls were bought at a tiny store on the island of Salina. It was located on the main street in Malfa. The owners told me Dolce & Gabbana bought quite a few pieces from them. You can see the influence in their S/S 2013 collection.
Speaking of that collection, please note my fellow Americans that the black versions of these kings and queens are not the same thing as Mammy imagery from America. Context is important when looking through our very specific American lens of a different culture, history, and country. I was annoyed that their runaway (like most) had no diversity.I say this as someone who gave Gladys Knight the side-eye when she became a spokeswoman for Aunt Jemina back in the day. I didn't care that AJ's handkerchief was replaced with a relaxer. I knew that context of that brand.
Taken from the terrace of the Metropole Hotel, Taormina, Sicily.
Photos Dolce and Gabbana: Fashionista Other photos. Me and my iPhone
Weekend Inspiration - Muriel Brandolini's Pool - Hamptons, NY
I wonder if we could re-set this week.Every time I turned on the news in the morning before my workout, there was some horrific, sad, or tragic breaking news.I had to look at something relaxing and beautiful. A picture of interior designer Muriel Brandolini's pool, featured in Architectural Digest was just what I needed.When I read the issue, this page jumped out at me. How stunning is this pool?
I don't swim (long story) but I could see myself enjoying the pool and the views.It's important to be informed about what is happening in the world. We must also remember to appreciate beauty in the world as well.Buon Ferragosto!
A New York City Rooftop Pool With A View
My friends in Rome are probably sick of hearing me go on and on about wanting a terrace.Well, that would be some of my friends who already have terraces. I don't think they appreciate how wonderful having a terrace is. One friend rarely uses his. I cannot understand this! Trust, once I have my terrace I will be out there all the time, even in the snow.Okay, that was an exaggeration as it snows here maybe once every twenty years or so.I don't need a huge space. Nor, a pool. However, if I had a chance to live in Keith Jacobson's home, featured in New York Magazine, I would.
A penthouse with views of the High Line? Yes.An outdoor kitchen? Yes.A full bathroom with an outdoor shower? Yes.Designed by Francis D’Haene, founder of D’Apostrophe Design and his colleague, Patrocinio Binuya, this rooftop was almost too much for me to handle in my terrace-less state.Yet, I still looked at the photos.
The landscape design was done by Miguel Pons.
Photos by David Allee
I'm glad they spared us photos of the cocktail bar.
Weekend Inspiration - Starburst Textile - Peter Dunham
Continuing with the Peter Dunham theme, this weekend's inspiration is his Starburst print. This hand-printed fabric would be perfect in a beach house.
Photo: Peter Dunham Textiles
Speaking of beach houses, I wish I were going to one this weekend!Buon weekend a tutti.
Stylish Simplicity - Hand Pitchers by Frances Palmer
For today's Stylish Simplicity post, I had to write about these pitchers/vases.I've been a fan of potter Frances Palmer for some time. One day my friend Marta, a very talented florist, told me that Frances was on Instagram. How did I not know this important information? That was great a day. Palmer's feed is outstanding.The hand pitchers below caught my eye. Not only are they beautiful, they're also very versatile. I could see them in a variety of décors from a spare, contemporary NYC loft, to a Queen Anne mansion in New Orleans, or in a country house in Puglia.
Photo: francespalmerpottery.com
These pitchers are the very definition of Stylish Simplicity.
A Tale of Two Houses
I'm always curious about abandoned houses. I wonder who lived there and what happened to the house.Renovating an old house, especially one that hasn't been lived in for a while, is not an easy task. Last week, two stories about two very different renovations were in the spotlight.First up, the New York Times wrote about the controversy surrounding the William Mason House in Thompson, CT.
Photo: New York Times
Famous interior designer Mario Buatta bought it twenty-two years ago. The Mason house is a gorgeous example of Gothic Revival architecture and was built in 1845.
At first, people in the small town were excited that a designer like Mr. Buatta bought the home. They believed the home was in good architectural hands. However, no work has been done in years. The house has become a horrible eyesore and is falling apart.
Everyone knows historic renovations are tricky and things take time. However, Buatta's dismissive attitude has alienated the town. He has worked on massive mansions four times the size of the Mason house which has thirteen rooms.
The house is located right on the village green. I understand why the residents are not happy with the snobby and arrogant "Prince of chintz."
Now for a more uplifting tale:
David Lebovitz linked to Messynessychic's post about Australians Karina and Craig Waters on his Facebook page. In 2013 the couple purchased the Chateau de Gudanes, an abandoned 18th century mansion in the Midi-Pyrénées. The chateau had been on the market for over four years.
While many people dream of taking on a project like this, the reality is that the renovation and upkeep for a place with ninety-four rooms is enormously expensive.
Those stairs!! The height of the ceilings!!
Click over to Messynessychic to see additional photos and learn more about the renovation. I cannot wait to see their progress.
Three Thanksgiving Floral Arrangement Ideas From Martha Stewart
I cannot believe Thanksgiving is next week! Where has this year gone?I am loving the autumn color explosion at the flower stands in my neighborhood. I want to incorporate some of those colors into interesting Thanksgiving floral arrangements.I thought, "What Would Martha Do?"Lo and behold I found the ones below on her website.Fantastic!What a creative way to use vegetables, flowers, and herbs. While this arrangement is perfect for Thanksgiving, it would also work all fall and winter. You could swap in whatever is in season.
This arrangement has less of a bounty from the earth vibe and is a little more dramatic and modern. I wouldn't put it on my dining table (it would block guests' faces) but instead on the bookcase in my foyer.
Great colors in this rustic arrangement. So warm and inviting.
I knew Martha wouldn't let me down. To see other beautiful arrangements from Ms. Stewart, click HERE.
Stylish Simplicity - Peperoncini (Tiny Peppers)
My friend Taiye finally had a break during her international book tour and was making lunch at her place. I wanted to pick up some flowers.I went to my flower stand in Campo dei Fiori but none of the flowers I had in mind were in season.Instead, I decided to go with some peperoncini.
So simple, including the presentation.I love the burst of color they bring to a room on a cold fall day. I plan to pick up some red ones later in the week.If you haven't read Taiye's critically acclaimed book, Ghana Must Go (La Bellezza Delle Cose Fragili in Italian), get thee to a bookstore or online. It's fantastic.
Weekend Inspiration - Shower - Monteverdi, Tuscany
What a week.Just when you think Italian politics couldn't be more confusing or bizarre, they are. I have no idea what is going to happen now. Maybe we'll have new elections.The Pope said good-bye yesterday. The city is packed with tourists who came to see him for the last time. Cardinals are flying in for the conclave and there are journalists in town from all over the world.Work-wise, things were hectic. I'm not sure how it's Friday already.Yesterday, Domenico and I drove up to Tuscany to visit the job site and to meet with our client who flew in from Germany. Normally, we would stay overnight but we decided to make it a day trip and left Rome at 6:30 a.m.It was a very long day. At one point my brain said, "BASTA!" and refused to cooperate. It was around the time I was asking the contractor questions in Italian and then translating his answers into English.On the drive back home, all I could think about was taking a long shower, getting in my PJs, and then watching Law and Order SVU reruns on Fox Crime (I have a thing for Detective Stabler).I wish I had a shower like this:
Unfortunately, I do not.The shower in the photo was designed by Ilaria Miani for Monteverdi. Monteverdi is a group of rental villas and a hotel in the small village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in Tuscany.Stunning. I hope to check it out sometime later this year.In the meantime, Stabler and I will be relaxing this weekend.Buon Weekend!