Life in Rome - This Time I am Ready for Ferragosto
First, I've just returned to Rome from a business trip to the States and the Caribbean. Below are some random observations:Los Angeles traffic continues to get worse. How is this possible.Target is great.J.Crew. What is happening? I've been a fan since the 80s. Something is amiss.Why is Ben and Jennifer's former nanny in the press so much? What is her end game? Reality show?Speaking of reality shows, what the heck is Hollywood Cycle?Ina Garten. Adore.Guy Fieri. Why so many shows, Food Network? Why?!My friend Erica posted this TIME magazine article that said Americans dressing like slobs equals freedom. Perhaps I have lived in Italy too long or I am turning into my Caribbean parents because I think that's absolutely ridiculous. Freedom? From what? The tyranny of Dior?The GOP debate. Fascinating. Trump was peak Trump.The flight attendants on Air France were very friendly and cheerful. It's a long flight from St. Martin to Paris (8.5 hours). Meanwhile, the American Airline attendants on the Miami to St. Martin flight (only 3 hours) not so much. Why?Portions in America are too big. I couldn't finish a single meal.The newish Restoration Hardware showroom in West Hollywood is odd. I don't get it. Is it just for the trade? Who thought it was a good idea to have a 40,000 sq ft store where you have to buy everything online or from the catalog? The scale is huge. How can any shopper, who doesn't live in a castle, envision that massive furniture in their home?It would never occur to me to combine these two things:
Second, in the past I have written about my Ferragosto issues. Despite living in Italy for seven years, I was very American when it come to vacations and/or taking a break from work.I said, "was" not "am." Finally, this year I get it. I cannot wait for August 15th. Truly.My trip was intense. I recently signed a Los Angeles based client and flew to Los Angeles direct from Rome. I have NEVER in my life been so happy to sit in a freezing cold plane for a thirteen-hour flight. The six week heatwave in Rome was warping my brain. There were rumblings about Alitalia striking that weekend. Thankfully, they didn't and I got an upgrade to Business Class. Nice.That upgrade made a huge difference. I had horrible jet leg during my trip to Los Angeles back in May. This time it was much better. I think it also helped that I walked to the Century City Mall shortly after arriving and stayed up until 10.30 p.m.While I was running around Los Angeles with my client, I had deliveries and construction happening in Rome for another client. Given the nine hour time difference, things were a little hectic. I was only in Los Angeles for a few days and on my client's schedule so I didn't see many friends or "do meetings".Then I fly to Miami. It was my first trip to the city. I need to return and see more of it. I really liked the vibe. I stayed at the Viceroy which was fantastic.Unfortunately, the design district is shrinking after LVHM bought out several blocks. It was still a productive trip. I sourced some great items for my Anguilla project.From Miami I flew to St. Martin. I said hello to my parents, and the next day took the ferry to Anguilla.After all the flying, unpacking, repacking, shopping, meeting with contractors, painters, carpenters, project managers, receiving texts from clients in Rome about things we need to do ASAP, etc. etc., I hit the wall on Saturday.While packing (again) I watch Flipping Out. Can we talk about this show? I have so many questions. I wish Bravo aired in Italy.I'm not complaining but a very strange thing happened during this trip. I do not feel guilty about looking forward to August 15th. Not one bit.Of course I'm not going completely cold turkey. There are quite a few back office things I need take care of during the break and meetings I must attend.I bought a stack of shelter magazines in the States and the book The Bee Cottage Story. I'm going to cut way back from the Internet and chill. I know September is going to be off the charts busy. Everyone returns to town and I'm looking for a new apartment. The latter will be an interesting process.I may not be able to Dolce Far Niente for two weeks but can try for at least two days. To prepare I need to put together a killer playlist which will include one of my favorite summer jams from August 1990.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzoEK545j64Buon Ferragosto!
Life in Rome - An Escape to Sperlonga to Beat the Heat
Of course there was drama.My friend Marta and I decided to get the heck out of dodge as this heatwave is one of the worst on record. There are no signs of relief. I understand week or so with these kind of temperatures. It is, after all, July in Rome. However, an entire month of highs in the 90s and low 100s is not a good thing.Did I mention that I don't have air conditioning? I cannot keep my windows open at night as my pretty side street is filled with demonstrative high school Italian students, and drunk American exchange students until dawn.I'm waking up at 4:00 a.m. as it's impossible to sleep. One of my clients is started a major construction project this week so I cannot work remotely in the mountains or at the beach as some friends have suggested.All this to say Marta and I were READY to get out of here on Saturday but alas, Trenitalia had other plans for us.It was one of those classic only in Italy moments. The train was on time but then got stuck on the track just a few yards away from Termini Station. There was something wrong with the current. We couldn't get off the train as we were on the tracks. There was no place to safely walk. They worked on the train and tracks for TWO hours. Mind you, the train ride to Fondi is an hour or so.At last, the train returns to the station and that's when all hell broke loose. Folks were not happy. One woman was going off on the police. I thought if she were in the States they probably would've tased her, then arrested her.It's funny, when we on the train things were pretty calm. While there was some muttering, "ma che cazzo sta dicendo" (but, what the fuck is he saying?) when the conductor walked through our car to give us updates, people kept reading or chatting with their friends instead of complaining.They did have another train waiting for us, on a different track, right away. Trenitalia employees handed out bottles of water, which I thought was a nice touch.Finally, we were on our way. Instead of waiting for the bus (at this point we were starving) we hopped into a taxi mini-van with several other women who were going to Sperlonga. They had been on the same train as us. When we saw the beach, they started clapping. We kept cracking up because the driver was having a super animated conversation.In a bizarre way the timing worked out better for us. We arrived in time for lunch. The restaurant, Scylla, was on the north side of the Historic Center and we wanted to be on the south side beach. To climb back and forth wouldn't have made sense. So we sat down, had a lovely lunch, and then braved the sun to walk up and over to the other side.Everyone was snapping photos of this sign.
I forgot all about the start to our day once we arrived.
Still thinking about this dish.
Sperlonga is a Blue Flag beach between Rome and Naples.
Starting our climb back up to the Historic Center. I have written about Tiberius's ruins HERE. It's a great day trip from Rome.
A quick aperitivi in the main piazza before returning to Rome. I didn't want to leave the fresh air and cool breeze.
Fantastic signage.
The view from the bus stop.
Life in Rome - Chez Dédé Opening Party
A few years ago I wrote about how much I adore the boutique accessories label founded by Andrea Ferolla and Daria Rein, Chez Dédé.There has been a lot of retail space turnover in our neighborhood. Antique stores, artisans, etc., are shutting down and Subway fast food restaurants, and other weird sandwich shops are taking over. There have been some great additions, like the Suppli spot but for every one of those there are four or five places that leave locals scratching their heads.Via Monserrato is one of the prettiest streets in Rome. When I saw the large for rent sign where Ilaria MIani's showroom used to be, I became very nervous. What kind of janky business would set up shop on this street?Then I saw this:
YAS!The store had its opening last week. Erica and I walked over and bumped into a bunch of our neighbors. One of our favorite bartenders, Fabrizio from Pierluigi, made the Kir Royales.Unfortunately, for me, the store is stunning. I should just leave my wallet there and let them take my money. All of it.Erica completely fan-girled LInda Rodin. I don't blame her. Ms. Rodin is a style icon for a reason. She was so gracious and didn't give us the side-eye for geeking out.I think I need to treat myself to a nice Grand Sac bag for my birthday. It's a big one (no, I'm not going to say which birthday it is as I still work in Hollywood). I haven't decided which bag yet. The island of Salina is one of my favorite places in the world but I also love the colors/style of the Portofino, Kenya, and Dubai bags. I haven't been to any of those places, so I think I should go with the Salina bag.Below are photos from the opening. Grazie mille, Daria for the invite!EDIT:Okay, I wrote this yesterday with the plan to publish today. I like to proof read before publishing yet, some typos still make it through. Grrrr.On Saturday my friend Courtney called me and said she had to speak with me urgently on Sunday. I asked what was wrong. Why couldn't she tell me over the phone? I was working all day on Sunday but said I would meet her in the afternoon. Erica wanted me to stop by her daughter's lemonade stand. I said I was on my way to meet Courtney but would stop by. I was worried about Courtney. Erica said she was too and hoped that everything was okay.I show up at Etablli. Courtney sends a SMS saying she's on her way and she asks me to order her a glass of wine. What the heck was going on? Was her news so heavy she needed to have a drink in hand?She walks in and Erica (!) is right behind her. They say, "Happy Birthday" and then this happened:
I had no idea they were planning this! Erica thought I was going to buy the bag before my birthday so she and Courtney went into action over the weekend. My birthday isn't until August 26th.I was/am floored. I am not an easy person to surprise and they totally got me. Well played ladies, well played. I love my bag.
Andrea is a very talented illustrator.
Linda Rodin. Fabulous.
Erica and Linda.
So true.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - A Taste (just a taste) of Spring
The song UMBRELLA is playing on a loop in my head.Finally, we had a sunny day in Rome today. I try not to complain too much on Twitter given what my friends who live on the East Coast in the States are dealing with. I love snow but it's easy to say that when you don't have to commute in it or shovel it.There are tiny signs of Spring busting out in Rome. Flowers are starting to bloom, tourists are wearing T-shirts while locals still wear winter coats, and the Farmers Markets are filled with artichokes.I have Spring Fever. Hardcore.Villa Borghese Park.
I was jogging in the park and saw this peacock enjoying the sunshine.
Another sign of Spring, the Rome Marathon.
Blooming tree in Villa Borghese Park.
Springy colors.
These strawberries from the Testaccio Farmers Market were delicious.
A clear sign of Spring. Roman artichokes.
And spring peas at the market in Campo dei Fiori.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - My Trip to Pienza, Tuscany
Earlier I wrote about the interior design of La Bandita Townhouse. Clearly the owners, John and Ondine, have put as much thought into the service as they did into the décor.From the first email to book my room, until the day I left, the service was (as the young folks say) on fleek. This is something I do not take for granted. Unfortunately, too many people have no idea what it means to work in the hospitality business. Why they would open or work in a hotel/restaurant/spa, etc. is beyond me.Pienza is a small hilltop town with a population of approximately two thousand people. It was the birthplace of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, who would become Pope Pius II. Piccolomini rebuilt the entire village, starting in 1459, after he became Pope. He saw it as a lovely Renaissance retreat from the Papal capital. In 1996 Pienza was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site.It's a perfect base from which to explore this region of Tuscany (with a car). Montapluciano, Siena, and other towns are close by. If you're a Pecorino cheese fan, a visit to Pienza is a must.Since I was only staying for two nights, I didn't rent a car and spent most of my time close to the Townhouse. It was FREEZING. I'm not exaggerating. I haven't been that cold since my days at Syracuse University.I was elated to see these fire pits around town. I love how in this country even a simple and functional thing, like a fire pit, is well designed. I mean, look at the darn logs. Did the person who built the fire make sure they were "just so" or what? Also, as I said before, it was beyond freezing. Who has time to worry about aesthetics in sub-freezing weather? If the logs were janky, would the fire builder be called out?I truly appreciate this attention to details.
The views were spectacular. Sunset.
Sun rising. View as I started my epic walk three and a half-hour walk.
Remember this road from the movie GLADIATOR? No, I was not entertained. I was a little freaked out because I didn't see a single person for kilometers. I started to think, "what if a wild boar attacked me? Nobody could hear me scream. Where the heck is the next farm house?"
Seriously, NOBODY was around.
The top of this well, stylish simplicity.
Pieve dei Santi Vito e Modesto Church. It was built sometime during the 11th and 12th centuries. Notice the distinctive carvings above the door. Several of these small country churches were built above Etruscan sites and used some of the same imagery.
I had a fantastic dinner at the hotel, after I defrosted. The restaurant is open to the pubic (you need reservations). Chef David and his sous-chef, Jacopo, knocked it out of the park.
Martina pours some Prosecco.
During high season, Pienza is very popular with tour groups. This charming video about La Bandita and Pienza helps explain why.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rGyeJ1Z030A big Thank You to everyone at La Bandita. Sometimes it's not so easy to travel alone and they made me feel at home.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Weekend Inspiration - Chocolate from SAID dal 1923
I was in the San Lorenzo neighborhood the other day and had to stop by SAID to pick up some chocolate.I'm more of a Swedish Fish, Jelly Bellys, and Gummy Bears type person but I do appreciate delicious chocolate, especially when it's so pretty.
Buon weekend and Happy Valentine's Day.
Life in Rome - My Attempt to Take Ballet Classes at the "Fame" School
Recently, I wrote about how I was inspired by Garance Doré's post on the New York City Ballet.Last week I checked out IALS (Istituto Addestramento Lavoratori dello Spettacolo) aka the Fame school in Rome. It was a straight-up disaster.I had signed up for a Beginner's class. There were three other women in my class who looked like ballerinas. The teacher, an older gentleman from Eastern Europe, quickly shouted out some choreography. I was overwhelmed within sixty seconds.I thought I was doing this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rnaq1iwxOF0 But it was more like this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2K4Kusf-a4Not a good look.The teacher stated, "You've never done ballet before." No, that is why I'm taking a Beginner's class! The other women had excellent turnouts. It was obvious they had experience. There are three different levels for Beginner's and I was in the first one. What the heck was going on?During one routine, we had to put our legs on the barre. I'm short and my leg could barely reach it. The only time the teacher walked over to me was when I was struggling to reach the barre. He pushed my torso closer to it and I thought my body would split in two.When the three ladies started pirouetting across the floor, I had to pull over to the side.I felt very discouraged after the ninety minute class was over. Clearly, I was too short and too old to take ballet lessons. I walked home (of course it started to rain) in a funk.I spoke to my friend Courtney who studied ballet as a child and to this day still does the warm-up exercises she learned. She told me not to give up and to try another teacher's class.I already had a monthly pass, so why not? I did and it was a revelation.The teacher, a svelte Italian man who could probably lift three times his body weight, introduced himself and asked me if I understood Italian. There were ten of us in the class and it was co-ed. He showed us the choreography, calling out the different positions while drawing our attention to his hand movements. As we danced, he would correct our form.He had two assistants and they also demonstrated the moves. If a sequence was too difficult for some of us in the class, he told us to watch the assistants, the more advanced dancers, and to do our best, "tranquilla!"During my first lesson, I felt clumsy. In his class, I felt graceful. I appreciated how he would walk over and show us where our hands, feet, and/or head should be. When we executed a move well, or corrected mistakes on our own, he would say, "bravo/brava!"At one point, while he was changing our music, I could hear the music from the Advanced class in the studio across the hall. It was "Concerto for Two Violins and Orchestra in D Minor"by Johann Sebastian Bach.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJh6i-t_I1QThis is one of my favorite pieces of music. I was so moved, I had to choke back tears.Once the class ended, we thanked Il maestro and his assistants. The ninety minutes had flown by. The next group of dancers and their teacher rushed in as we put on our street clothes in the hallway.I know my turnout will improve and it's okay that I didn't start lessons when I was four. I'm starting ballet now and I love it.
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Townhouse - Pienza, Tuscany
I've read about La Bandita, a country house near Pienza and have seen photos of it in various shelter magazines/design articles.A little over a year ago, John Voigtmann and his wife Ondine Cohane opened La Bandita Townhouse converting a former convent in center of Pienza into a 12-room boutique hotel.My friend Gillian and husband stayed there recently. She told me I had to see it in person. Gillian knows my taste and said I would love it.She was correct. I know people are sick and tired of decorators using words like swoon! obsessed! and dying! when describing interiors. However, let me say, I swooned when I saw my room. I was obsessed with the design of the kitchen and was dying over the views.I've written before about the mix. It's something you see frequently in French and Italian interiors. It's not easy to pull off. Sometimes the space is too modern for the architecture and it feels cold. Or the design is so faithful to the past, it's dated.Working with Florence based architects, Arianna Pieri and Ernesto Bartolini of DA.Studio, John and Ondine have created a lovely space. In a hotel, all the beauty in the world doesn't mean a thing if the service is awful. It was fantastic and I will write about a post about that and Pienza soon.I absolutely adore this type of décor. The same architects worked on Monteverdi with interiors by Ilaria Miani.i found out that one of the main resources for La Bandita Townhouse was the store Barthel. No wonder it spoke to me as we sourced most of the items for the bathrooms in our Tuscany project from Barthel.This was my room, number 12. I arrived late afternoon. The amount of light during the day is unreal. I love that they retained the stone wall. The view from the tub was sick. The Ortigia products were a nice touch, as were the free water and soda in the mini-bar.In my next apartment I would like a canopy bed. The colors, the lighting, the bed linens, I really didn't want to leave this room after two days.I have to ask if they have a room with a desk, because La Bandita is a perfect spot for writers.
Tears of happiness when i saw this huge shower stall. I really need to move.
Gorgeous. The main hallway is the first thing you see when you walk thru the door. The convent dates from the 1400s.
Again, stone walls. A lot of natural materials with pops of orange throughout.
This kitchen is everything. In the States open-plan kitchens are preferred but not in Italy (or the Caribbean). Notice the overhead window over the bar? It drops down. Once you close the door on the left of the bar, you have a closed kitchen that lets in light. A friend of mine, who lives in a loft in Rome, did something very similar. It's a brilliant idea.
An old map of Italy in the library/lounge.
I was very excited to see so many classic LPs in different genres. I could've stayed up all night listening to music. I still have some vinyl and for my next apartment (I know, I know) I will buy a turntable.
You know how I feel about books and magazines. It was freezing outside. It was nice to curl up on the sofa and just chill.
John is former music industry executive. Some of his gold records sit on top of the bookcase.
Aperitivi time!
John has said he and Ondine wanted to create a beautiful, comfortable hotel where people could come to relax and enjoy Tuscany. They have. La Bandita is a special place. I cannot wait to return during warmer weather so I can eat outside on their fantastic terrace.Photos: (except for the one of the kitchen and of the bookcase) me and my iPhone.Click HERE to see more from La Bandita's great photo gallery.
La Bandita Townhouse
Life in Rome - The Flaminio Flea Market
Borghetto Flaminio is not as well known as the famous Porto Portese market. The latter has more furniture but Flaminio is the market to check out for authentic vintage/used designer clothes and interesting tableware.As with any flea market there could be some fakes, but this market has a good reputation. Many of the vendors are regulars. If they were selling fake Prada, Gucci, Hermès, etc. the word would get out pretty quickly.Borghetto Flaminio is tiny. I suggest getting there early. It's packed with fantastic finds. I hadn't been there in years so when my friend, artist and florist Marta, suggested we check it out, I was ready.A cool tea set from the 40s.
Lovely monogrammed vintage linen.
A taste of Hermès. This was the most popular vendor in the market. They also had some drop dead gorgeous vintage Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Fendi bags.
Love this Murano glass set from the 60s.
Marta was VERY excited about this patent leather Prada bag.
Sundays (except holidays)Piazza della Marina, 32Sundays, 10AM – 7PM€1.60 entrance feeFrom mid-September to mid-July
Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas
I cannot believe it's Christmas 2014 already. Where did this year go?In a sea filled with awful news (I really need to ease up on how much I watch and read everyday), it's good to be reminded of joyous things.Last Friday my friend, Gina, invited me to meet her, Rachel, and Elizabeth at their friend Alice's holiday pop-up bakery. Alice Is a food stylist and cook. Her gingerbread cookies were delicious. I wonder if it's possible to order some during the off season. I must investigate.I loved the simple decorations, the Prosecco, and most importantly, sharing them with friends old and new.
It's not easy to be far away from my family during the holidays, but I feel very fortunate to be surrounded by an incredible group of friends.Merry Christmas!!
Life in Rome - A Tour of Bulgari's Heritage Collection
Recently AWAR (The American Women's Association of Rome) had the privilege of taking a small (only twenty members) private tour of Bulgari's Heritage Collection.I RSVPed the minute I read the invitation.I haven't been inside the store since the Peter Marino renovation. One morning, when I was jogging up Via Condotti on my way to Villa Borghese Park, I'm positive I saw the architect walking out of the store. Who else would be wearing that outfit at 8:30 in the morning, in Rome?Bulgari was founded by Sotirios Bulgaris in Rome one hundred and thirty years ago. The Heritage Collection is a celebration of this history. There are over six hundred unique pieces. The jewelery, watches, accessories, and drawings were curated during years of research and archival work. Bulgari has been buying back importance pieces from auctions and private collections.While Bulgari is part of the French high-end global powerhouse LVMH, the DNA of the company is Roman.DOMUS means home in Latin and that space (located on the second floor) is where you will find pieces from the Heritage Collection.The store is gorgeous. Marino, inspired by the Pantheon and other Roman masterpieces, modernized the flagship store without stripping it of its history and charm.The foyer on the first floor. Nods to the Pantheon in this circular space.
The back stairs that lead to Domus. That pattern.
This floor and that table. No words.
Here's a picture I took of the floor so you can see the intricate tiling. Stunning. I gasped when I saw it.
Caterina Riccardi, Bulgari Brand Heritage Special Projects, explains the connection between the Heritage Collection and the Eternal City. Ms. Riccardi was the Via Condotti store manager for over thirty years. Her tour was excellent, informative and entertaining.
This sapphire necklace was bought from a private collector in the States. Be still, my beating heart.
Richard Burton once said, "The only Italian word Elizabeth knows is Bulgari." Burton gave Taylor this sapphire and diamond necklace and ring for her fortieth birthday. Actress Jessica Chastin wore the iconic necklace at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival. She was the first person to wear it since Taylor.
From 1960, a gold watch bracelet with diamonds and rubies. I do not like snakes but I'd make an exception for this one.
This is just a little taste of the incredible pieces in this collection. I was inspired by the colors, the designs, and the craftsmanship.By appointment only. To reserve a visit, contact: DOMVScondotti.visits@bulgari.com or +39 06 688101 First three photos: Bulgari.Other photos: Me and my iPhone.
Weekend Inspiration - All of the Lights - Campo de' Fiori
For me the day after Thanksgiving has nothing to do with shopping. It means I can start playing Christmas carols.This probably comes as a shock to people who don't know me well, as I appear to be a person who loves to shop. It's even part of my job.However, the whole Black Friday thing always left a bad taste in my mouth. While Short Hills Mall is one of my favorite places in America, I'd rather listen to Izzy Azalea on a continuous loop than go there on the day after Thanksgiving.We don't have such a thing in Italy and I don't see it happening anytime soon. The concept of standing/waiting in line is completely foreign, even in places (like the post office) where we're supposed to.One thing that is also popular here, are street lights. This week crews were putting them up all over town.In my neighborhood, Campo de Fiori, we have these:
I adore the simplicity of them.Now, I'm off to play some of my favorite holiday jams.Buon weekend!
Stylish Simplicity - The Tiffany T Bracelet
There has been great deal of press about the new Design Director of Tiffany & Co., Francesca Amfitheatrof. She is the first woman to have this position at the storied American jewelry company. The job had been vacant for five years. Ms. Amfitheatrof had some big shoes to fill.Ms. Amfitheatrof, who trained with a master silversmith in Padua after college, has created pieces for Chanel, Alessi, and Fendi. She was born in Japan to an Italian mother and a Russian-American father, who was a TIME bureau chief, and grew up in New York, Rome, London, and Moscow.I love her new collection for Tiffany. This bracelet is so simple and so chic.
18 karat rose gold bracelet
Narrow Wire 18 karat white gold bracelet
18 Karat gold braclet
I have read some comments claiming that this collection is not all that. It's TOO simple, "Hello it's just a T. My kid could do that." I cringe when I hear people make those kind of statements about any kind of creative endeavor.The simpler something is, the easier it is to mess it up. Look at Cacio e Pepe, not many ingredients but a difficult dish to execute well. There are no bells and whistles to hide imperfections. Every single ingredient has to be of excellent quality.It's is the same thing with these bracelets (yes, I just compared high-end jewelry to a simple Roman pasta dish).You can wear these bracelet with many different styles of clothing. I think they are destined to become classics like some of Elsa Peretti's pieces. The Tiffany T bracelet is the very definition of Stylish Simplicity.Photos: Tiffany
Progetti da Sogno (aka, American Dream Builders)
The American series AMERICAN DREAM BUILDERS started airing this week in Italy on the channel LEI.Hosted by Nate Berkus, it's a mash up between EXTREME MAKEOVERS and TOP DESIGN. I have always wondered about the reality of the former. They do a lot of structural changes. How well was the construction, plumbing, and electrical work executed when they have only a week to demolish and rebuild? Could the owners afford the increase in property taxes? So many questions.One thing I really like about this show is that two teams work on two houses from a similar era and/or style. It's compelling to see how the teams agree (or not) on an overall aesthetic for their house and then how the individual designers design their rooms.There is a mix of designers, contractors, and landscape architects. Of course, there are some strong personalities. Reality TV would be boring without them.We are three episodes in and so far it's fantastic. The show is entertaining and educational. Décor is very subjective but it's interesting to hear the judges explain why they believe a room doesn't work. Sometimes it's a design issue. For example, the team did not address the layout issues. Other times, it's about the décor. Those debates get heated.I cannot wait to see who wins. There are some very talented designers on this show.https://dailymotion.com/video/x1htfrm
Weekend Inspiration - Halloween
Halloween is a big deal in the States. Here in Italy, we are starting to see more and more decorations but it's a three day holiday weekend, All Saints Day and All Souls Day.I have carved my share of pumpkins and ate my share of Halloween candy. I don't care what anyone says, candy corn should not be classified as a candy!Perhaps I could ask one my friends who works at the American Embassy if the commissary sells Charleston Chews. All of a sudden I have a craving for one today. In the meantime, I will buy a few mini-pumpkins to decorate my table.Leave it to Ms. Martha Stewart to take it to the next level with her squash version.
Photo: Martha Stewart
Buon weekend a tutti!
Weekend Inspiration - Spain via Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana have been knocking it out of the park.I did read one review from a UK fashion critic who complained that D&G were tapping the Sicilian well too often. She was RELIEVED to see that their S/S 2015 was influenced by Spain.Hello, Spain ruled Sicily from 1516-1713. This is still a Sicilian inspired collection.There were a lot of bold red dresses and fitted black ones, but this black and white dress is one of my favorites. Of course, I could never wear it as I'm too short and my breasts are too big. But I love it.The trim is beautiful. I could see using something like it in home décor as well.
Photo: Dolce & Gabbana
Buon weekend a tutti!
A Woman Who Lives in Rome Actually Loves Milan?
Yes, it's true.Even my Milanese friends who live here think it's odd. I don't care. If loving Milan is wrong, I don't want to be right.Just in time for Milan Fashion Week, here is a short piece I wrote for FATHOM.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 7 - Art + Design
Why do I miss Sicily? There are Sicilian restaurants in Rome.Perhaps this is only an infatuation. My first trip to Sicily was just last year, which I wrote about in FATHOM. Maybe the island will lose its hold on me after a few more trips, or years. We'll see.Like the cuisine, the art and architecture of Sicily has been influenced by the diverse cultures of its various rulers.Every day I stopped by to see the Burial of Santa Lucia, painted by Caravaggio in 1608, located in the Santa Lucia alla Badia church. There is something very special about seeing art in the context that it was created for.In the early 2000's many architects and interior designers started to buy and renovate houses in the area. I kept getting lost in little courtyards and side streets. There was inspiration all around me and design elements that gave me some ideas for my Caribbean beach house project.Below are a few of my favorite things:How pretty is this packaging? I received a gift from this store on my birthday. Erica's daughter picked it out. That five year-old has excellent taste.
Photo: ortigiasicily.com
As someone who was raised Methodist, I'm still thrown by some of the more intense art in Catholic churches. My childhood church had stained glass with images of things like Jesus chilling with some shepherds.
Here is the patron saint of Siracusa, Santa Lucia.
Clever use of a satellite dish.
Spiderman on the side of the Municipal Building representing the heroic spirit of the people. I'm trying to find out who the artist is and when the work was installed.
Cool planter outside a house that faces the sea.
Rome-based artist UNO and his latest installation.
Also from Rome, Alice Pasquini. Erica and I went to see her and UNO work on their murals. This is a school in Siracusa.
The new and the old.
I saw these fishing baskets all over my neighborhood.
Love the door.
And this gate.
This alley showing a sliver of the sea was up the street.
I'm thinking about my next trip. Maybe I should go to Palermo or Cefalù, or both.
Photos, unless noted otherwise, are by me and my iPhone.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 6 - The Sea
I appreciate the majesty of the Hudson River and the cool blues of a lake in Maine but I’m a sea/ocean person.It’s probably because I’ve spent the majority of my life living on the East and West Coasts of the United States and during the summer my family went to the Caribbean to see my grandparents. Even if I didn’t go to the ocean often, when I lived in Manhattan the beach was a summer situation only, I needed to know that it was close by.Once I moved to Los Angeles, I had a car again. On Sundays I would load up my LL Bean tote bag with scripts for the infamous weekend read and head to El Matador Beach in Malibu. Working on Sundays wasn't so bad with a view of the Pacific Ocean.Sicily, Italy’s largest region, has 992 miles of coastline surrounded by the Tyrrhenian, Mediterranean, and Ionian seas.Sunrise. Ortigia. The sea was a block away from my apartment.
So were these rocks. Erica’s five year-old daughter asked me if I was going to jump in too. I told her I didn’t swim. She’s a great swimmer and was perplexed by my answer.
Ortigia. Early morning swimmers.
Siracusa. Three small trees on a cliff spotted during an early morning jog.
Mt. Etna. View from the Monaci della Terra Nere boutique hotel on a cloudy morning.
Salina. View of Stromboli.
Salina. On the mountain near the village of Pollara.
Salina. The San Lorenzo church in Malfa.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Seven Day of Sicily - Day 5 - Ceramics
Sicily is known for its hand painted pottery.Like the cuisine, each region has it's own style. I have to ask Erica where she bought her octopus plate. I think it was somewhere near Cefalù.As I have stated before, I have no more room in my apartment, so I was only able to buy a few small bowls.I used one of the them in the photos that Gina took of the terrace project I worked on.
The larger blue and white bowl and the little eggshell one (for salt or jam) were bought at a small workshop located right on my street. Ceramiche Artiginali DoLù, Via Larga, 7 Ortigia +39 0931 449451
The other bowls were bought at a tiny store on the island of Salina. It was located on the main street in Malfa. The owners told me Dolce & Gabbana bought quite a few pieces from them. You can see the influence in their S/S 2013 collection.
Speaking of that collection, please note my fellow Americans that the black versions of these kings and queens are not the same thing as Mammy imagery from America. Context is important when looking through our very specific American lens of a different culture, history, and country. I was annoyed that their runaway (like most) had no diversity.I say this as someone who gave Gladys Knight the side-eye when she became a spokeswoman for Aunt Jemina back in the day. I didn't care that AJ's handkerchief was replaced with a relaxer. I knew that context of that brand.
Taken from the terrace of the Metropole Hotel, Taormina, Sicily.
Photos Dolce and Gabbana: Fashionista Other photos. Me and my iPhone