Getting Your Home Ready for Spring - My Fabric Picks for Decorative Pillows
I hope you had a lovely holiday weekend.It's still a little chilly here in Rome but I know better than to complain about it. Our weather is almost tropical compared to some parts of the States.Growing up in NY/NJ I looked forward to saying, "peace out" to winter and getting ready for spring. While some of my chores were not fun, I enjoyed helping my parents prep our home.Once I moved to Los Angeles I didn't have to worry about such things. There are seasons but the changes are subtle. Nothing drastic like mountains of snow and not a single sunny day in February.One thing I appreciate about living in Rome is having "real" seasons again but without the bone chilling North East winters.I've written before about how my mom did not play when it came to keeping a clean house. Spring cleaning was like Oscars week for her. I get it. She grew up in the Caribbean and never got used to the weather. After a long brutal winter, it's nice to open all the windows and let your home breathe.I don't like heights, so I would ask my dad if I could pass on cleaning the gutters. I loved working in the garden with him. What I didn't love so much... changing the draperies. They were heavy and we had a LOT of windows when we lived in New York City and when we moved out to suburban New Jersey. I couldn't avoid ladders completely. Once the drapes were down, they were off to the dry cleaners and my mom and I would put up pretty Spring/Summer curtains.After a thorough cleaning, it's on to the next step.Along with swapping out heavy draperies and bed lines (goodbye thick duvets!), pillows are an easy way to bring some Spring into your home. I'd rather make custom pillows but if you don't have time to pick out fabric, stores like West Elm, Crate and Barrel, and IKEA have some fantastic and affordable choices. Like this Ella Square from Crate and Barrel.
If you go the custom route, below are my some of my favorites for Spring/Summer 2015:Dedar's Rataplan. A very pretty and interesting take on stripes. I'm seeing a glass (or two) of Franciacorta with this print.
Peter Dunham's Peterazzi in Pale Indigo. This silvery blue says Spring and a nice chilled white wine from Agrigento, Sicily.
Kathryn M. Ireland's Brianza from her Summer in France line. This would look great against a white linen sofa and with a glass of Rosé.
For a more graphic design, Kelly Wearstler's Groundworks line for Lee Jofa is gorgeous. I'm thinking a Martini for this one.
Also from Lee Jofa, David Hicks' La Fiorentina Red. A Negroni cocktail (which was invented in Florence) would be perfect.
Here is everything (and I mean everything) you need to know about Spring Cleaning from the one and only Martha Stewart. It's a good thing.
Life in Rome - A Taste (just a taste) of Spring
The song UMBRELLA is playing on a loop in my head.Finally, we had a sunny day in Rome today. I try not to complain too much on Twitter given what my friends who live on the East Coast in the States are dealing with. I love snow but it's easy to say that when you don't have to commute in it or shovel it.There are tiny signs of Spring busting out in Rome. Flowers are starting to bloom, tourists are wearing T-shirts while locals still wear winter coats, and the Farmers Markets are filled with artichokes.I have Spring Fever. Hardcore.Villa Borghese Park.
I was jogging in the park and saw this peacock enjoying the sunshine.
Another sign of Spring, the Rome Marathon.
Blooming tree in Villa Borghese Park.
Springy colors.
These strawberries from the Testaccio Farmers Market were delicious.
A clear sign of Spring. Roman artichokes.
And spring peas at the market in Campo dei Fiori.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - My Trip to Pienza, Tuscany
Earlier I wrote about the interior design of La Bandita Townhouse. Clearly the owners, John and Ondine, have put as much thought into the service as they did into the décor.From the first email to book my room, until the day I left, the service was (as the young folks say) on fleek. This is something I do not take for granted. Unfortunately, too many people have no idea what it means to work in the hospitality business. Why they would open or work in a hotel/restaurant/spa, etc. is beyond me.Pienza is a small hilltop town with a population of approximately two thousand people. It was the birthplace of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, who would become Pope Pius II. Piccolomini rebuilt the entire village, starting in 1459, after he became Pope. He saw it as a lovely Renaissance retreat from the Papal capital. In 1996 Pienza was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site.It's a perfect base from which to explore this region of Tuscany (with a car). Montapluciano, Siena, and other towns are close by. If you're a Pecorino cheese fan, a visit to Pienza is a must.Since I was only staying for two nights, I didn't rent a car and spent most of my time close to the Townhouse. It was FREEZING. I'm not exaggerating. I haven't been that cold since my days at Syracuse University.I was elated to see these fire pits around town. I love how in this country even a simple and functional thing, like a fire pit, is well designed. I mean, look at the darn logs. Did the person who built the fire make sure they were "just so" or what? Also, as I said before, it was beyond freezing. Who has time to worry about aesthetics in sub-freezing weather? If the logs were janky, would the fire builder be called out?I truly appreciate this attention to details.
The views were spectacular. Sunset.
Sun rising. View as I started my epic walk three and a half-hour walk.
Remember this road from the movie GLADIATOR? No, I was not entertained. I was a little freaked out because I didn't see a single person for kilometers. I started to think, "what if a wild boar attacked me? Nobody could hear me scream. Where the heck is the next farm house?"
Seriously, NOBODY was around.
The top of this well, stylish simplicity.
Pieve dei Santi Vito e Modesto Church. It was built sometime during the 11th and 12th centuries. Notice the distinctive carvings above the door. Several of these small country churches were built above Etruscan sites and used some of the same imagery.
I had a fantastic dinner at the hotel, after I defrosted. The restaurant is open to the pubic (you need reservations). Chef David and his sous-chef, Jacopo, knocked it out of the park.
Martina pours some Prosecco.
During high season, Pienza is very popular with tour groups. This charming video about La Bandita and Pienza helps explain why.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rGyeJ1Z030A big Thank You to everyone at La Bandita. Sometimes it's not so easy to travel alone and they made me feel at home.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Weekend Inspiration - Chocolate from SAID dal 1923
I was in the San Lorenzo neighborhood the other day and had to stop by SAID to pick up some chocolate.I'm more of a Swedish Fish, Jelly Bellys, and Gummy Bears type person but I do appreciate delicious chocolate, especially when it's so pretty.
Buon weekend and Happy Valentine's Day.
Life in Rome - My Attempt to Take Ballet Classes at the "Fame" School
Recently, I wrote about how I was inspired by Garance Doré's post on the New York City Ballet.Last week I checked out IALS (Istituto Addestramento Lavoratori dello Spettacolo) aka the Fame school in Rome. It was a straight-up disaster.I had signed up for a Beginner's class. There were three other women in my class who looked like ballerinas. The teacher, an older gentleman from Eastern Europe, quickly shouted out some choreography. I was overwhelmed within sixty seconds.I thought I was doing this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rnaq1iwxOF0 But it was more like this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2K4Kusf-a4Not a good look.The teacher stated, "You've never done ballet before." No, that is why I'm taking a Beginner's class! The other women had excellent turnouts. It was obvious they had experience. There are three different levels for Beginner's and I was in the first one. What the heck was going on?During one routine, we had to put our legs on the barre. I'm short and my leg could barely reach it. The only time the teacher walked over to me was when I was struggling to reach the barre. He pushed my torso closer to it and I thought my body would split in two.When the three ladies started pirouetting across the floor, I had to pull over to the side.I felt very discouraged after the ninety minute class was over. Clearly, I was too short and too old to take ballet lessons. I walked home (of course it started to rain) in a funk.I spoke to my friend Courtney who studied ballet as a child and to this day still does the warm-up exercises she learned. She told me not to give up and to try another teacher's class.I already had a monthly pass, so why not? I did and it was a revelation.The teacher, a svelte Italian man who could probably lift three times his body weight, introduced himself and asked me if I understood Italian. There were ten of us in the class and it was co-ed. He showed us the choreography, calling out the different positions while drawing our attention to his hand movements. As we danced, he would correct our form.He had two assistants and they also demonstrated the moves. If a sequence was too difficult for some of us in the class, he told us to watch the assistants, the more advanced dancers, and to do our best, "tranquilla!"During my first lesson, I felt clumsy. In his class, I felt graceful. I appreciated how he would walk over and show us where our hands, feet, and/or head should be. When we executed a move well, or corrected mistakes on our own, he would say, "bravo/brava!"At one point, while he was changing our music, I could hear the music from the Advanced class in the studio across the hall. It was "Concerto for Two Violins and Orchestra in D Minor"by Johann Sebastian Bach.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJh6i-t_I1QThis is one of my favorite pieces of music. I was so moved, I had to choke back tears.Once the class ended, we thanked Il maestro and his assistants. The ninety minutes had flown by. The next group of dancers and their teacher rushed in as we put on our street clothes in the hallway.I know my turnout will improve and it's okay that I didn't start lessons when I was four. I'm starting ballet now and I love it.
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Townhouse - Pienza, Tuscany
I've read about La Bandita, a country house near Pienza and have seen photos of it in various shelter magazines/design articles.A little over a year ago, John Voigtmann and his wife Ondine Cohane opened La Bandita Townhouse converting a former convent in center of Pienza into a 12-room boutique hotel.My friend Gillian and husband stayed there recently. She told me I had to see it in person. Gillian knows my taste and said I would love it.She was correct. I know people are sick and tired of decorators using words like swoon! obsessed! and dying! when describing interiors. However, let me say, I swooned when I saw my room. I was obsessed with the design of the kitchen and was dying over the views.I've written before about the mix. It's something you see frequently in French and Italian interiors. It's not easy to pull off. Sometimes the space is too modern for the architecture and it feels cold. Or the design is so faithful to the past, it's dated.Working with Florence based architects, Arianna Pieri and Ernesto Bartolini of DA.Studio, John and Ondine have created a lovely space. In a hotel, all the beauty in the world doesn't mean a thing if the service is awful. It was fantastic and I will write about a post about that and Pienza soon.I absolutely adore this type of décor. The same architects worked on Monteverdi with interiors by Ilaria Miani.i found out that one of the main resources for La Bandita Townhouse was the store Barthel. No wonder it spoke to me as we sourced most of the items for the bathrooms in our Tuscany project from Barthel.This was my room, number 12. I arrived late afternoon. The amount of light during the day is unreal. I love that they retained the stone wall. The view from the tub was sick. The Ortigia products were a nice touch, as were the free water and soda in the mini-bar.In my next apartment I would like a canopy bed. The colors, the lighting, the bed linens, I really didn't want to leave this room after two days.I have to ask if they have a room with a desk, because La Bandita is a perfect spot for writers.
Tears of happiness when i saw this huge shower stall. I really need to move.
Gorgeous. The main hallway is the first thing you see when you walk thru the door. The convent dates from the 1400s.
Again, stone walls. A lot of natural materials with pops of orange throughout.
This kitchen is everything. In the States open-plan kitchens are preferred but not in Italy (or the Caribbean). Notice the overhead window over the bar? It drops down. Once you close the door on the left of the bar, you have a closed kitchen that lets in light. A friend of mine, who lives in a loft in Rome, did something very similar. It's a brilliant idea.
An old map of Italy in the library/lounge.
I was very excited to see so many classic LPs in different genres. I could've stayed up all night listening to music. I still have some vinyl and for my next apartment (I know, I know) I will buy a turntable.
You know how I feel about books and magazines. It was freezing outside. It was nice to curl up on the sofa and just chill.
John is former music industry executive. Some of his gold records sit on top of the bookcase.
Aperitivi time!
John has said he and Ondine wanted to create a beautiful, comfortable hotel where people could come to relax and enjoy Tuscany. They have. La Bandita is a special place. I cannot wait to return during warmer weather so I can eat outside on their fantastic terrace.Photos: (except for the one of the kitchen and of the bookcase) me and my iPhone.Click HERE to see more from La Bandita's great photo gallery.
La Bandita Townhouse
Weekend Inspiration - Garance Doré Studio at the NYC Ballet
I've always loved ballet but have never taken a class. I thought I was too short. The only dance class I've taken was modern dance in college.Lately, I've been thinking about signing up for classes. So what if I'm only 5.2"? I have several friends who are taking adult ballet classes and they rave about them.I play tennis and have played sports all my life. I need to mix things up a bit, especially as I get older. I've tried yoga and ripped a tendon in my wrist probably because I was incapable of focusing on the task at hand. It was a very painful injury. During yoga classes my mind was always racing, thinking about all the things I had to to do. I could never relax. I had the same issues when I tried Pilates.Perhaps ballet is the way to go. It combines athleticism with art, balance, agility, endurance, and mental focus. We'll see what happens.When I woke up this morning and saw Garance's latest post, I had to send it to my ballet-loving friends immediately. The Studio was invited to visit the New York City Ballet as they prepared for the opening night of their winter season.
These intimate photos are so beautiful and inspiring. To see more, click on to Garance's blog HERE.Buon weekend!
Life in Rome - The Flaminio Flea Market
Borghetto Flaminio is not as well known as the famous Porto Portese market. The latter has more furniture but Flaminio is the market to check out for authentic vintage/used designer clothes and interesting tableware.As with any flea market there could be some fakes, but this market has a good reputation. Many of the vendors are regulars. If they were selling fake Prada, Gucci, Hermès, etc. the word would get out pretty quickly.Borghetto Flaminio is tiny. I suggest getting there early. It's packed with fantastic finds. I hadn't been there in years so when my friend, artist and florist Marta, suggested we check it out, I was ready.A cool tea set from the 40s.
Lovely monogrammed vintage linen.
A taste of Hermès. This was the most popular vendor in the market. They also had some drop dead gorgeous vintage Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Fendi bags.
Love this Murano glass set from the 60s.
Marta was VERY excited about this patent leather Prada bag.
Sundays (except holidays)Piazza della Marina, 32Sundays, 10AM – 7PM€1.60 entrance feeFrom mid-September to mid-July
Hello 2015!
One of my friends asked me what my word is for 2015. Another asked about my resolutions. I've given both a great deal of thought.What I really need to do in 2015 is stop being a control freak. I'm driving myself (and my friends) crazy. While it's a good thing (especially in a detail orientated profession) to be very organized, I need to take it down a notch, okay, several.I'm not sure how I will achieve this goal but at least I have acknowledged this critical situation.So far 2015 is off to a great start. Yes, I do realize we're only two days in.Happy New Year!
Fireworks outside my window.
Pienza, Tuscany. La Bandita Townhouse.
Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas
I cannot believe it's Christmas 2014 already. Where did this year go?In a sea filled with awful news (I really need to ease up on how much I watch and read everyday), it's good to be reminded of joyous things.Last Friday my friend, Gina, invited me to meet her, Rachel, and Elizabeth at their friend Alice's holiday pop-up bakery. Alice Is a food stylist and cook. Her gingerbread cookies were delicious. I wonder if it's possible to order some during the off season. I must investigate.I loved the simple decorations, the Prosecco, and most importantly, sharing them with friends old and new.
It's not easy to be far away from my family during the holidays, but I feel very fortunate to be surrounded by an incredible group of friends.Merry Christmas!!
Weekend Inspiration - All of the Lights - Campo de' Fiori
For me the day after Thanksgiving has nothing to do with shopping. It means I can start playing Christmas carols.This probably comes as a shock to people who don't know me well, as I appear to be a person who loves to shop. It's even part of my job.However, the whole Black Friday thing always left a bad taste in my mouth. While Short Hills Mall is one of my favorite places in America, I'd rather listen to Izzy Azalea on a continuous loop than go there on the day after Thanksgiving.We don't have such a thing in Italy and I don't see it happening anytime soon. The concept of standing/waiting in line is completely foreign, even in places (like the post office) where we're supposed to.One thing that is also popular here, are street lights. This week crews were putting them up all over town.In my neighborhood, Campo de Fiori, we have these:
I adore the simplicity of them.Now, I'm off to play some of my favorite holiday jams.Buon weekend!
A Few Dinner Plates For A Thanksgiving Table
Many people back in the States have asked me what I'm doing on Thursday.I'm working. Thanksgiving is an American holiday.If I had an oven/kitchen/apartment bigger than a shoebox, I would host a Thanksgiving dinner but on Saturday (which is what the majority of expats do here).My future apartment will have more space and I will entertain more.In the meantime, I can admire these lovely plates that would be perfect for my Thanksgiving dinners.For an informal table:The Marbury Dinnerware Collection from Crate and Barrel. You can put a charger underneath with more color or a pattern.
The Charlotte Street Collection from Kate Spade. I had to have at least one white plate with blue trim.
The Eclectique Dinner plate from Williams-Sonoma. It's a pretty dish made in France.
For a more formal table:The Renaissance Collection by Wedgewood. A classic.
Anmut Platinum by Villeroy & Boch. One word... elegant.
The American Dinner plate by Hermès. The blues are gorgeous.
Hmmm, not seeing a lot of variety here.I do appreciate china with flowers but for my table I tend to keep it simple because my floral arrangements are colorful. Also, I like to mix and match my dinnerware. Having plates in a similar color palette makes the table more cohesive.For those who are celebrating, I hope you have a fantastic and Happy Thanksgiving.
Weekend Inspiration - Foliage - Hudson River Valley
Suddenly, Fall has arrived in Rome.On Sunday my friends were swimming at the beach. Monday was a Bermuda shorts day. Tuesday? The temperature dropped by 20 degrees (F).This morning the air was very clear and crisp. I think I need to bake an apple crumble.The leaves are started to drop along the Tiber River. The chestnut vendors are actually selling chestnuts now. They started weeks ago but nobody wanted to buy hot chestnuts when it was 85 degrees out.One thing I loved about growing up on the East Coast, was the change in seasons. Our town had a LOT of trees and many of them were in our backyard. It wasn't so fun to rake them but we did enjoy jumping into the piles.The last two weeks of October is best time to drive up to the Hudson River Valley to check out the leaves.The reds and oranges in this photo are gorgeous.
Photo: Eric/Flickr Commons
Buon weekend a tutti!
Io Adoro - Anguilla, British West Indies
Anguilla is quite the A-list celebrity/VIP destination these days. However, the small island has managed to retain it's relaxed, quiet charm.My most recent piece for FATHOM Magazine went live today. ANGUILLA – I wish I could say I have always appreciated this beautiful island. That would be untrue.When my family moved from New York City to the leafy suburbs of Verona, New Jersey, I knew I had to become a true American teenager. I was hampered by my parents' insistence on raising their children as if we were a family living in the Caribbean.My parents are from St. Martin (totally different from the Dutch side, St. Maarten) and both my grandmothers were Anguillian. Whenever we went to St. Martin to stay with my paternal grandparents, we ferried over to Anguilla to visit family and friends. When I was a child it, was fun to hang out with my cousins, go the beaches, and stuff ourselves on Johnnycakes, rice and peas, and salt fish cakes. But as for the stunning white beaches of the island, they were lost on me when I was older. I mean, I was a teenager. Visiting relative after relative while sitting on their verandas for hours drinking Ting was boring.The final anti-island straw happened one night when I was walking back to my aunt's house and a mongoose ran across my foot. I was done. I thought, "I could be chilling at the Short Hills Mall with my friends instead of being stuck on this tiny island."It wasn't until my parents moved to back to St. Martin after retirement and I moved to Rome that I began to understand why those trips back home were so important.To read the rest and see more pictures, click HERE.
The beach at Cap Juluca with the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten in the background.
Photo: Me and my iPHone
A Woman Who Lives in Rome Actually Loves Milan?
Yes, it's true.Even my Milanese friends who live here think it's odd. I don't care. If loving Milan is wrong, I don't want to be right.Just in time for Milan Fashion Week, here is a short piece I wrote for FATHOM.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 7 - Art + Design
Why do I miss Sicily? There are Sicilian restaurants in Rome.Perhaps this is only an infatuation. My first trip to Sicily was just last year, which I wrote about in FATHOM. Maybe the island will lose its hold on me after a few more trips, or years. We'll see.Like the cuisine, the art and architecture of Sicily has been influenced by the diverse cultures of its various rulers.Every day I stopped by to see the Burial of Santa Lucia, painted by Caravaggio in 1608, located in the Santa Lucia alla Badia church. There is something very special about seeing art in the context that it was created for.In the early 2000's many architects and interior designers started to buy and renovate houses in the area. I kept getting lost in little courtyards and side streets. There was inspiration all around me and design elements that gave me some ideas for my Caribbean beach house project.Below are a few of my favorite things:How pretty is this packaging? I received a gift from this store on my birthday. Erica's daughter picked it out. That five year-old has excellent taste.
Photo: ortigiasicily.com
As someone who was raised Methodist, I'm still thrown by some of the more intense art in Catholic churches. My childhood church had stained glass with images of things like Jesus chilling with some shepherds.
Here is the patron saint of Siracusa, Santa Lucia.
Clever use of a satellite dish.
Spiderman on the side of the Municipal Building representing the heroic spirit of the people. I'm trying to find out who the artist is and when the work was installed.
Cool planter outside a house that faces the sea.
Rome-based artist UNO and his latest installation.
Also from Rome, Alice Pasquini. Erica and I went to see her and UNO work on their murals. This is a school in Siracusa.
The new and the old.
I saw these fishing baskets all over my neighborhood.
Love the door.
And this gate.
This alley showing a sliver of the sea was up the street.
I'm thinking about my next trip. Maybe I should go to Palermo or Cefalù, or both.
Photos, unless noted otherwise, are by me and my iPhone.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 6 - The Sea
I appreciate the majesty of the Hudson River and the cool blues of a lake in Maine but I’m a sea/ocean person.It’s probably because I’ve spent the majority of my life living on the East and West Coasts of the United States and during the summer my family went to the Caribbean to see my grandparents. Even if I didn’t go to the ocean often, when I lived in Manhattan the beach was a summer situation only, I needed to know that it was close by.Once I moved to Los Angeles, I had a car again. On Sundays I would load up my LL Bean tote bag with scripts for the infamous weekend read and head to El Matador Beach in Malibu. Working on Sundays wasn't so bad with a view of the Pacific Ocean.Sicily, Italy’s largest region, has 992 miles of coastline surrounded by the Tyrrhenian, Mediterranean, and Ionian seas.Sunrise. Ortigia. The sea was a block away from my apartment.
So were these rocks. Erica’s five year-old daughter asked me if I was going to jump in too. I told her I didn’t swim. She’s a great swimmer and was perplexed by my answer.
Ortigia. Early morning swimmers.
Siracusa. Three small trees on a cliff spotted during an early morning jog.
Mt. Etna. View from the Monaci della Terra Nere boutique hotel on a cloudy morning.
Salina. View of Stromboli.
Salina. On the mountain near the village of Pollara.
Salina. The San Lorenzo church in Malfa.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 4 - Ortigia's Farmers Market
I kept bumping into Erica and her parents at the market.We do have great markets in Rome but the market in Ortigia is on another level. I think it's because the food doesn't have far to travel. The freshness and variety is unreal.I'm still going on and on to Erica about the peaches I had. I'm sure she's tired of hearing about them.I didn't buy any fish but I did eat my share from the market. I'm still talking about that too.A MUST is the shop, Fratelli Burgio, located near the end of the market closest to the sea. It gets very crowded so be patient. I hear they have fantastic sandwiches and aperitivi. The line for sandwiches was long and there was only one person behind the counter. Poor guy.I bought some Pachino sun dried tomatoes in olive oil there. At thirty-two euros a kilo they were not cheap but were worth every single euro.A bowl of said tomatoes. Pachino tomatoes are grown only on the Southeastern coast of Sicily.
The fishmongers were quite lively (and flirty). I was too shy to snap a photo of the very attractive gentleman who called me Ms. New York.
Baked ricotta cheese at Fratelli Burgio.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 3 - Noto
I took a little day trip to Noto on my birthday. After a quick thirty minute ride on the shortest train I've even seen, I arrived in a small town considered to be the height of Baroque urban planning.The Duomo is a show stopper. The old town was completely destroyed in the 1693 earthquake. The way it's laid out is very organized thanks to Giovanni Battista Landolina. Working with three architects, Rosario Gagliardi, Vincenzo Sinatra, and Paolo Labisi, Landolina designed three main streets, running parallel. At the top were the aristocracy (with the best views), the clergy in the middle, and everyone else at the bottom.I had a great time in gorgeous Noto. Caffe Sicilia on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, is fantastic. I had one of the best lemon granitas of my LIFE there.My return to Ortigia had a classic Italian moment. I bought a round-trip ticket. After a long walk, downhill, to the train station I noticed everything was closed. Ten minutes later, an announcement is made over the loud speaker in rapid-fire Italian saying my train had been canceled. Thank God I understand Italian because at a pocket-sized station why would there have been an explanation also in English? I went to a gym across the street to ask where the heck the bus stop was as there were no signs with that information.There were four men at the front desk chatting and they looked like Dolce & Gabbana models but with athletic builds. The men were very dark and handsome with those striking green/grey eyes you see all over Sicily. My brain froze. I literally could not speak Italian (or English really). One dude said, "are you okay?" I blamed the heat and they were kind enough to give me specific directions.The street was silent, expect for my cursing, as I climbed back up the ridiculously long and steep hill, in the blazing hot Sicilian sun (there were NO cabs around). At the bus stop I was told that the bus service between these small towns is a lot more reliable than the train. Thanks Trenitalia!The Duomo.
A view of the Duomo from one of the terraces of the Santa Chiara church.
Love the detailing above the chandelier.
I ate a delicious Pasta alla Norma and the service was great. The reviews of this restaurant are all over the map. Two foodie friends thought the food was overrated and others go to Noto just to eat here.
While am I more of a Biggie person, I can appreciate this graffiti.
Interior of the Montevergine church.
Three bells. Shot from another terrace of the Santa Chiara church.
Sea view. In the distance.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 2 - Food and Wine
You can see and taste the Greek, Spanish, and North African influences in Sicilian cuisine.The rich agricultural diversity of the island (the interior landscape is completely different from the coast) has also played a role in making this cuisine so unique (and delicious).A separate post will be written about the Ortigia Farmers Market.Some of my favorite Sicilian foods/dishes are:Arancini - Rice balls fried with either a ragu sauce inside or eggplant (and sometimes both).Capers - Picked by hand, these small flowers buds can be quite pricey outside of Italy.Caponata - An eggplant dish usually served as an antipasta. Every region of the island has their own way of making it. I heard it takes a long time to cook. Maybe I can convince my friend Gina to make it in Rome.Couscous al pesce - Couscous with fish.Fish - It's usually prepared simply. No need for extravagant sauces and spices when the food is so fresh. Anchovies, Vongole, Sea Urchins, Swordfish, Amberjack, Grouper, Tuna, Sardines, and Sea Bream are some of the local fish you will find in Sicily.Granita - Nobody does it better than Sicily. Nobody.Pasta alla Norma - Originally from the city of Catania, this pasta dish is made with lightly fried eggplant, grated ricotta salata, and basil. I've never made this dish. I think it's time to try it.Pasta con Sarde - Pasta with sardines. Usually has pine nuts, fennel, and raisins.Sicilian Bread - Yes, it is different from the bread on the mainland. It has a golden color thanks to the durum semolina flour used from locally grown wheat.Sfincione - A pizza type dish. The dough is thicker and airier.Wine - There is a lot of excitement about Sicilian wines and their talented producers. I usually drink Piemontese, French, (and a few Lazio ones when making Roman dishes) wines at home but I'm learning more about this region thanks to my knowledgeable friends. I really enjoy wines from the Mt. Etna area.I know this sounds outrageous but I'm not a big cannoli fan. Meanwhile my partner on this series, Erica, was on a mission to try every single cannolo and cassatina in the neighborhood. Pasta alla Norma. So good.
Little cassata cakes. AKA cassatiini.
I never had a Rosé from Mt. Etna before. The waitress at Clandestino recommended it. It was very good.
Pasta with swordfish, vongole, and cherry tomatoes.
Sigh.
A white wine from Agrigento. The owner of a little shop on Via Savoia (n. 2) recommended it after I told him I was invited to a lunch featuring risotto with shrimp. It was a big hit. I went back to buy another bottle. I hope there's a shop in Rome that sells it.
One of my favorite things about late spring and summer is drinking homemade iced tea with lemon granita (tè fatto in casa con limone granita). It's like an Italian Arnold Palmer.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Of course now I'm starving. What are some of your favorites?