My Return to Sicily
Hello, my name is Arlene Antoinette Gibbs and I have a Sicily problem.It's bad. Every time I go, i wish I could stay longer. There's so much of the island I haven't seen yet, for example the entire West Coast, the interior, and other islands like Stromboli, Lampedusa, etc. etc.This time I was on the island for a week, Mt. Etna then Ortigia, for vacation (and to celebrate my birthday)."It's good to back," I said to Rosa, the newish manager, when I walked into the reception room at Monaci delle Terre Nere. Last year I wrote about Monaci and my first trip to the Sicilian mainland for FATHOM.This time I stayed in the Floreale room.
The bathroom!
Photos: Monaci The view from my balcony.
Lunch was served by the pool.The first time I went to Monaci, it was raining and winter so I had no idea how spectacular the views were. The grounds are gorgeous.
The main villa at sunset. I would like to decorate a Sicilian villa one day.
One morning I jogged around the forty acre property. Most of the food served at Monaci comes from their organic gardens. There is a huge chicken coop. I hesitate to call it a coop. It's more like a palace as it's bigger than my apartment. Lucky chickens.The breakfast spread was serious. On the other side were eggs, cheeses, salumi, cakes, breads, cereals, and many other things I didn't have a chance to try.
I had to buy a jar of their honey. Fifteen percent of the honey made in Italy comes from this small town.
I had some great Sicilian wines. I love their aperitivi. Although there were more guests during this trip (the hotel was at full occupancy) fewer people went to the aperitivi. Perhaps they thought it wasn't child appropriate?
Several rooms, located a few meters from the main house, have been renovated now. The atmosphere during high season was completely different from off-season. There were lots of families and half the tourists were American.I had a moment with a fellow American guest who was so rude, it took my breath away. I believe I had a strong reaction to her snub because it was completely out of context. The vibe at Monaci is very friendly and chill. The owners, Guido and Ada, are lovely and as are the other people who work there. For this basic lady to not understand that said a lot about her.As soon as I sat down with my book by the pool, I got over it. I was in a beautiful place and no one was going to put a damper on that.A slight scent of Sicilian jasmine, and lavender filled the air. There were roosters in the background and sometimes the volcano "groaned", loudly. It was very relaxing despite the sounds coming from Mt. Etna.A grazie mille to Rosa, Sara, Federico, Nujuan, Salvatore, and of course Guido and Ada for helping make this the best birthday ever.Note: My room was in the main villa and on the same floor as the kitchen. I'm an early riser, so I never heard a peep from the kitchen or from the downstairs reception area.From Monaci, I went to Oritigia. This time I rented an apartment on the other side of the village. I couldn't understand why it was cheaper than my place from last year. It had a terrace with a partial sea view.It's because that side of the town wasn't completely regentrified, yet.As you can see in the photos below, some of the buildings are derelict and the empty former prison is on the left. I liked being only two blocks away from the farmers market but can see how that might not be appealing.I had to work a bit during my vacation but at least I had a view.
Love the old faded tiles on the right.
Before unpacking, I ran out to get pick up some yogurt, wine, and other important things. All of a sudden I heard my name and it was X, Erica's daughter. Once again, without planning it, our apartments were only blocks away from each other.The tiny piazza in front of my building at night.
The architecture here is incredible. Remember to look up.
My friends at Casa Mia wrote about Tabaré (Sicilian dialect for tray) and I had to check it out. It's a must.
On my birthday we went to Arenella beach. We got there early and scored great beach chairs, second row. It was my first trip to a Sicilian beach and I had a great time. I love how people of all shapes and sizes rock bikinis and Speedos.
Later that night we went to dinner. In Italy when it's your birthday and you invite people to celebrate with you, you pay. It makes sense to me. You're the host. I have some American friends who really have an issue with this custom but it's not just an Italian thing. In the Caribbean if you invite people out for your birthday, you pay. I get it if you're in your early 20s and you meet at a bar or something. However, by your 40s/50s and up, the whole invite people to celebrate you and then expect them to pay is a little odd to me.
After dinner Erica insisted on treating me to a post dinner drink in the main piazza. This is probably one of my favorite churches and piazzas in Italy. It is ridiculously beautiful.
I was worked up about this birthday but in the end, it turned out to be a perfect day. Thank you, Ms. Firpo and Ms. Arya.I've been back for less than two weeks and I'm already trying to figure out when I can return. I'm tempted to join one of my friends in Rome who has to go to there for work in October. Seriously.Photos (except for the first two): me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - This Time I am Ready for Ferragosto
First, I've just returned to Rome from a business trip to the States and the Caribbean. Below are some random observations:Los Angeles traffic continues to get worse. How is this possible.Target is great.J.Crew. What is happening? I've been a fan since the 80s. Something is amiss.Why is Ben and Jennifer's former nanny in the press so much? What is her end game? Reality show?Speaking of reality shows, what the heck is Hollywood Cycle?Ina Garten. Adore.Guy Fieri. Why so many shows, Food Network? Why?!My friend Erica posted this TIME magazine article that said Americans dressing like slobs equals freedom. Perhaps I have lived in Italy too long or I am turning into my Caribbean parents because I think that's absolutely ridiculous. Freedom? From what? The tyranny of Dior?The GOP debate. Fascinating. Trump was peak Trump.The flight attendants on Air France were very friendly and cheerful. It's a long flight from St. Martin to Paris (8.5 hours). Meanwhile, the American Airline attendants on the Miami to St. Martin flight (only 3 hours) not so much. Why?Portions in America are too big. I couldn't finish a single meal.The newish Restoration Hardware showroom in West Hollywood is odd. I don't get it. Is it just for the trade? Who thought it was a good idea to have a 40,000 sq ft store where you have to buy everything online or from the catalog? The scale is huge. How can any shopper, who doesn't live in a castle, envision that massive furniture in their home?It would never occur to me to combine these two things:
Second, in the past I have written about my Ferragosto issues. Despite living in Italy for seven years, I was very American when it come to vacations and/or taking a break from work.I said, "was" not "am." Finally, this year I get it. I cannot wait for August 15th. Truly.My trip was intense. I recently signed a Los Angeles based client and flew to Los Angeles direct from Rome. I have NEVER in my life been so happy to sit in a freezing cold plane for a thirteen-hour flight. The six week heatwave in Rome was warping my brain. There were rumblings about Alitalia striking that weekend. Thankfully, they didn't and I got an upgrade to Business Class. Nice.That upgrade made a huge difference. I had horrible jet leg during my trip to Los Angeles back in May. This time it was much better. I think it also helped that I walked to the Century City Mall shortly after arriving and stayed up until 10.30 p.m.While I was running around Los Angeles with my client, I had deliveries and construction happening in Rome for another client. Given the nine hour time difference, things were a little hectic. I was only in Los Angeles for a few days and on my client's schedule so I didn't see many friends or "do meetings".Then I fly to Miami. It was my first trip to the city. I need to return and see more of it. I really liked the vibe. I stayed at the Viceroy which was fantastic.Unfortunately, the design district is shrinking after LVHM bought out several blocks. It was still a productive trip. I sourced some great items for my Anguilla project.From Miami I flew to St. Martin. I said hello to my parents, and the next day took the ferry to Anguilla.After all the flying, unpacking, repacking, shopping, meeting with contractors, painters, carpenters, project managers, receiving texts from clients in Rome about things we need to do ASAP, etc. etc., I hit the wall on Saturday.While packing (again) I watch Flipping Out. Can we talk about this show? I have so many questions. I wish Bravo aired in Italy.I'm not complaining but a very strange thing happened during this trip. I do not feel guilty about looking forward to August 15th. Not one bit.Of course I'm not going completely cold turkey. There are quite a few back office things I need take care of during the break and meetings I must attend.I bought a stack of shelter magazines in the States and the book The Bee Cottage Story. I'm going to cut way back from the Internet and chill. I know September is going to be off the charts busy. Everyone returns to town and I'm looking for a new apartment. The latter will be an interesting process.I may not be able to Dolce Far Niente for two weeks but can try for at least two days. To prepare I need to put together a killer playlist which will include one of my favorite summer jams from August 1990.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzoEK545j64Buon Ferragosto!
Life in Rome - An Escape to Sperlonga to Beat the Heat
Of course there was drama.My friend Marta and I decided to get the heck out of dodge as this heatwave is one of the worst on record. There are no signs of relief. I understand week or so with these kind of temperatures. It is, after all, July in Rome. However, an entire month of highs in the 90s and low 100s is not a good thing.Did I mention that I don't have air conditioning? I cannot keep my windows open at night as my pretty side street is filled with demonstrative high school Italian students, and drunk American exchange students until dawn.I'm waking up at 4:00 a.m. as it's impossible to sleep. One of my clients is started a major construction project this week so I cannot work remotely in the mountains or at the beach as some friends have suggested.All this to say Marta and I were READY to get out of here on Saturday but alas, Trenitalia had other plans for us.It was one of those classic only in Italy moments. The train was on time but then got stuck on the track just a few yards away from Termini Station. There was something wrong with the current. We couldn't get off the train as we were on the tracks. There was no place to safely walk. They worked on the train and tracks for TWO hours. Mind you, the train ride to Fondi is an hour or so.At last, the train returns to the station and that's when all hell broke loose. Folks were not happy. One woman was going off on the police. I thought if she were in the States they probably would've tased her, then arrested her.It's funny, when we on the train things were pretty calm. While there was some muttering, "ma che cazzo sta dicendo" (but, what the fuck is he saying?) when the conductor walked through our car to give us updates, people kept reading or chatting with their friends instead of complaining.They did have another train waiting for us, on a different track, right away. Trenitalia employees handed out bottles of water, which I thought was a nice touch.Finally, we were on our way. Instead of waiting for the bus (at this point we were starving) we hopped into a taxi mini-van with several other women who were going to Sperlonga. They had been on the same train as us. When we saw the beach, they started clapping. We kept cracking up because the driver was having a super animated conversation.In a bizarre way the timing worked out better for us. We arrived in time for lunch. The restaurant, Scylla, was on the north side of the Historic Center and we wanted to be on the south side beach. To climb back and forth wouldn't have made sense. So we sat down, had a lovely lunch, and then braved the sun to walk up and over to the other side.Everyone was snapping photos of this sign.
I forgot all about the start to our day once we arrived.
Still thinking about this dish.
Sperlonga is a Blue Flag beach between Rome and Naples.
Starting our climb back up to the Historic Center. I have written about Tiberius's ruins HERE. It's a great day trip from Rome.
A quick aperitivi in the main piazza before returning to Rome. I didn't want to leave the fresh air and cool breeze.
Fantastic signage.
The view from the bus stop.
I Went Back to Cali - La Cienega Design Quarter - Legends 2015
Finally, my jet lag is over. It was much worse in Los Angeles and ended shortly before my return flight to Rome. How wonderful!The LCDQ Legends interior designer conference is one of the most popular events in the industry. I've heard designers call it the Coachaella or the Oscars of interior design. There were more than ten thousand RSVPs for the three-day event, with designers from over twenty-four states, and one hundred and fifty designers traveling to Los Angeles from overseas.This was my first year attending. It was fantastic. There were Interesting and informative panel discussions, fun parties, and over sixty-seven inspiring window displays.Not only did I enjoy visiting some of my favorite (and new) showrooms, I appreciated the style of my fellow decorators. Folks were not playing. It does make sense that many interior designers/decorators have a great sense of style. I forgot how super casual Los Angeles is until I saw someone walk into Urth Cafe in Beverly Hills wearing pajamas bottoms. I'm talking about the sloppy, comfortable ones you sleep in, not the dressy ones you would wear to a party.I also had Hollywood film/TV meetings but since this is not a screenwriting blog, all I will say is that everyone is talking about EMPIRE. We'll see how this hit show changes the landscape.There were many highlights and I left feeling very energized (and determined to move to a new neighborhood).Opening night gala. My friend Corrina (an interior design junkie) came with me. It was packed. The food was delicious. I felt drunk despite not drinking at all. The jet lag struggle was real that night.
The official kick off. The Bloggers Breakfast. I met Erinn Valencich from American Dream Builders. So nice. Perhaps my experience is not the norm, but I'm constantly surprised by how friendly and helpful people are in this industry. At the conference I met some serious A-listers and they couldn't be more down to earth. It's shocking!There were many famous design bloggers attending the breakfast but the room was so crowed it was impossible to move around. I found out who was at the event after seeing their Instagram feeds.Yes, I took a photo of this Italian shower head. I love that other people were also taking photos of faucets and shower heads. I could spend hours discussing such things.
I've written about Peter Dunham before. His showroom, Hollywood at Home, has moved to a new location. Beautiful. I ordered some fabric samples for my Anguilla beach house project.
You know how I feel about Peonies.
Peter's famous Fig Leaf print.
How gorgeous is this dark blue club chair at Mecox?
This table? Perfect for a bedroom, entryway, or a small office.
Everyone was so cheerful. It really unnerved me. Ha!This photo was taken at the ELLE DECOR Power Luncheon. Very pretty and again, great food.
Lulu Powers making Aperol Spritz before the "Entertaining - The Home As A Social Stage" panel, with Susan McFadden, Kathryn M. Ireland, Russ Diamond, and Lulu.The take away? Dining rooms are not obsolete, despite what developers of McMansions say. They're being used differently, less formal. I agree and wish I had one.
I read Windsor Smith's new book once I returned to Rome. I highly recommend adding it to your library. It was great to meet Windsor and to spend time in the Arteriors' showroom.
I love that Arteriors was serving cocktails at 2:30 p.m. on a Friday afternoon. Unfortunately, I was driving non-stop in Los Angeles. Still, I enjoyed the festive atmosphere.
One of the most popular events is the Moore and Giles cocktail party, co-chaired by Harbinger LA and the Hearst shelter magazines (Veranda, Elle Decor, and House Beautiful) in the Harbinger backyard.More Aperol Spritz. The Italian inspired menu was catered by Lulu Powers and was delicious.
My incredible experience ended with an intimate party at Kathryn M. Ireland's beautiful home. I forgot my phone (the HORROR!).Paloma Contreras of La Dolce Vita blog wrote a post about it.Ireland has moved her West Hollywood showroom next door to her textile printing shop on Washington street. Outside, it looks like any other nondescript industrial space. Inside, is a completely different story.I cannot believe it's been almost three years since I attended her Interior Design Boot Camp. It was one of the best investments I've made in my career. It was also a lot of fun.
Work in progress. Hand printed textiles.
Photos: My and my iPhone.
Life in Rome - My Trip to Pienza, Tuscany
Earlier I wrote about the interior design of La Bandita Townhouse. Clearly the owners, John and Ondine, have put as much thought into the service as they did into the décor.From the first email to book my room, until the day I left, the service was (as the young folks say) on fleek. This is something I do not take for granted. Unfortunately, too many people have no idea what it means to work in the hospitality business. Why they would open or work in a hotel/restaurant/spa, etc. is beyond me.Pienza is a small hilltop town with a population of approximately two thousand people. It was the birthplace of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, who would become Pope Pius II. Piccolomini rebuilt the entire village, starting in 1459, after he became Pope. He saw it as a lovely Renaissance retreat from the Papal capital. In 1996 Pienza was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site.It's a perfect base from which to explore this region of Tuscany (with a car). Montapluciano, Siena, and other towns are close by. If you're a Pecorino cheese fan, a visit to Pienza is a must.Since I was only staying for two nights, I didn't rent a car and spent most of my time close to the Townhouse. It was FREEZING. I'm not exaggerating. I haven't been that cold since my days at Syracuse University.I was elated to see these fire pits around town. I love how in this country even a simple and functional thing, like a fire pit, is well designed. I mean, look at the darn logs. Did the person who built the fire make sure they were "just so" or what? Also, as I said before, it was beyond freezing. Who has time to worry about aesthetics in sub-freezing weather? If the logs were janky, would the fire builder be called out?I truly appreciate this attention to details.
The views were spectacular. Sunset.
Sun rising. View as I started my epic walk three and a half-hour walk.
Remember this road from the movie GLADIATOR? No, I was not entertained. I was a little freaked out because I didn't see a single person for kilometers. I started to think, "what if a wild boar attacked me? Nobody could hear me scream. Where the heck is the next farm house?"
Seriously, NOBODY was around.
The top of this well, stylish simplicity.
Pieve dei Santi Vito e Modesto Church. It was built sometime during the 11th and 12th centuries. Notice the distinctive carvings above the door. Several of these small country churches were built above Etruscan sites and used some of the same imagery.
I had a fantastic dinner at the hotel, after I defrosted. The restaurant is open to the pubic (you need reservations). Chef David and his sous-chef, Jacopo, knocked it out of the park.
Martina pours some Prosecco.
During high season, Pienza is very popular with tour groups. This charming video about La Bandita and Pienza helps explain why.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rGyeJ1Z030A big Thank You to everyone at La Bandita. Sometimes it's not so easy to travel alone and they made me feel at home.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Townhouse - Pienza, Tuscany
I've read about La Bandita, a country house near Pienza and have seen photos of it in various shelter magazines/design articles.A little over a year ago, John Voigtmann and his wife Ondine Cohane opened La Bandita Townhouse converting a former convent in center of Pienza into a 12-room boutique hotel.My friend Gillian and husband stayed there recently. She told me I had to see it in person. Gillian knows my taste and said I would love it.She was correct. I know people are sick and tired of decorators using words like swoon! obsessed! and dying! when describing interiors. However, let me say, I swooned when I saw my room. I was obsessed with the design of the kitchen and was dying over the views.I've written before about the mix. It's something you see frequently in French and Italian interiors. It's not easy to pull off. Sometimes the space is too modern for the architecture and it feels cold. Or the design is so faithful to the past, it's dated.Working with Florence based architects, Arianna Pieri and Ernesto Bartolini of DA.Studio, John and Ondine have created a lovely space. In a hotel, all the beauty in the world doesn't mean a thing if the service is awful. It was fantastic and I will write about a post about that and Pienza soon.I absolutely adore this type of décor. The same architects worked on Monteverdi with interiors by Ilaria Miani.i found out that one of the main resources for La Bandita Townhouse was the store Barthel. No wonder it spoke to me as we sourced most of the items for the bathrooms in our Tuscany project from Barthel.This was my room, number 12. I arrived late afternoon. The amount of light during the day is unreal. I love that they retained the stone wall. The view from the tub was sick. The Ortigia products were a nice touch, as were the free water and soda in the mini-bar.In my next apartment I would like a canopy bed. The colors, the lighting, the bed linens, I really didn't want to leave this room after two days.I have to ask if they have a room with a desk, because La Bandita is a perfect spot for writers.
Tears of happiness when i saw this huge shower stall. I really need to move.
Gorgeous. The main hallway is the first thing you see when you walk thru the door. The convent dates from the 1400s.
Again, stone walls. A lot of natural materials with pops of orange throughout.
This kitchen is everything. In the States open-plan kitchens are preferred but not in Italy (or the Caribbean). Notice the overhead window over the bar? It drops down. Once you close the door on the left of the bar, you have a closed kitchen that lets in light. A friend of mine, who lives in a loft in Rome, did something very similar. It's a brilliant idea.
An old map of Italy in the library/lounge.
I was very excited to see so many classic LPs in different genres. I could've stayed up all night listening to music. I still have some vinyl and for my next apartment (I know, I know) I will buy a turntable.
You know how I feel about books and magazines. It was freezing outside. It was nice to curl up on the sofa and just chill.
John is former music industry executive. Some of his gold records sit on top of the bookcase.
Aperitivi time!
John has said he and Ondine wanted to create a beautiful, comfortable hotel where people could come to relax and enjoy Tuscany. They have. La Bandita is a special place. I cannot wait to return during warmer weather so I can eat outside on their fantastic terrace.Photos: (except for the one of the kitchen and of the bookcase) me and my iPhone.Click HERE to see more from La Bandita's great photo gallery.
La Bandita Townhouse
Weekend Inspiration - Foliage - Hudson River Valley
Suddenly, Fall has arrived in Rome.On Sunday my friends were swimming at the beach. Monday was a Bermuda shorts day. Tuesday? The temperature dropped by 20 degrees (F).This morning the air was very clear and crisp. I think I need to bake an apple crumble.The leaves are started to drop along the Tiber River. The chestnut vendors are actually selling chestnuts now. They started weeks ago but nobody wanted to buy hot chestnuts when it was 85 degrees out.One thing I loved about growing up on the East Coast, was the change in seasons. Our town had a LOT of trees and many of them were in our backyard. It wasn't so fun to rake them but we did enjoy jumping into the piles.The last two weeks of October is best time to drive up to the Hudson River Valley to check out the leaves.The reds and oranges in this photo are gorgeous.
Photo: Eric/Flickr Commons
Buon weekend a tutti!
Io Adoro - Anguilla, British West Indies
Anguilla is quite the A-list celebrity/VIP destination these days. However, the small island has managed to retain it's relaxed, quiet charm.My most recent piece for FATHOM Magazine went live today. ANGUILLA – I wish I could say I have always appreciated this beautiful island. That would be untrue.When my family moved from New York City to the leafy suburbs of Verona, New Jersey, I knew I had to become a true American teenager. I was hampered by my parents' insistence on raising their children as if we were a family living in the Caribbean.My parents are from St. Martin (totally different from the Dutch side, St. Maarten) and both my grandmothers were Anguillian. Whenever we went to St. Martin to stay with my paternal grandparents, we ferried over to Anguilla to visit family and friends. When I was a child it, was fun to hang out with my cousins, go the beaches, and stuff ourselves on Johnnycakes, rice and peas, and salt fish cakes. But as for the stunning white beaches of the island, they were lost on me when I was older. I mean, I was a teenager. Visiting relative after relative while sitting on their verandas for hours drinking Ting was boring.The final anti-island straw happened one night when I was walking back to my aunt's house and a mongoose ran across my foot. I was done. I thought, "I could be chilling at the Short Hills Mall with my friends instead of being stuck on this tiny island."It wasn't until my parents moved to back to St. Martin after retirement and I moved to Rome that I began to understand why those trips back home were so important.To read the rest and see more pictures, click HERE.
The beach at Cap Juluca with the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten in the background.
Photo: Me and my iPHone
A Woman Who Lives in Rome Actually Loves Milan?
Yes, it's true.Even my Milanese friends who live here think it's odd. I don't care. If loving Milan is wrong, I don't want to be right.Just in time for Milan Fashion Week, here is a short piece I wrote for FATHOM.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 7 - Art + Design
Why do I miss Sicily? There are Sicilian restaurants in Rome.Perhaps this is only an infatuation. My first trip to Sicily was just last year, which I wrote about in FATHOM. Maybe the island will lose its hold on me after a few more trips, or years. We'll see.Like the cuisine, the art and architecture of Sicily has been influenced by the diverse cultures of its various rulers.Every day I stopped by to see the Burial of Santa Lucia, painted by Caravaggio in 1608, located in the Santa Lucia alla Badia church. There is something very special about seeing art in the context that it was created for.In the early 2000's many architects and interior designers started to buy and renovate houses in the area. I kept getting lost in little courtyards and side streets. There was inspiration all around me and design elements that gave me some ideas for my Caribbean beach house project.Below are a few of my favorite things:How pretty is this packaging? I received a gift from this store on my birthday. Erica's daughter picked it out. That five year-old has excellent taste.
Photo: ortigiasicily.com
As someone who was raised Methodist, I'm still thrown by some of the more intense art in Catholic churches. My childhood church had stained glass with images of things like Jesus chilling with some shepherds.
Here is the patron saint of Siracusa, Santa Lucia.
Clever use of a satellite dish.
Spiderman on the side of the Municipal Building representing the heroic spirit of the people. I'm trying to find out who the artist is and when the work was installed.
Cool planter outside a house that faces the sea.
Rome-based artist UNO and his latest installation.
Also from Rome, Alice Pasquini. Erica and I went to see her and UNO work on their murals. This is a school in Siracusa.
The new and the old.
I saw these fishing baskets all over my neighborhood.
Love the door.
And this gate.
This alley showing a sliver of the sea was up the street.
I'm thinking about my next trip. Maybe I should go to Palermo or Cefalù, or both.
Photos, unless noted otherwise, are by me and my iPhone.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 6 - The Sea
I appreciate the majesty of the Hudson River and the cool blues of a lake in Maine but I’m a sea/ocean person.It’s probably because I’ve spent the majority of my life living on the East and West Coasts of the United States and during the summer my family went to the Caribbean to see my grandparents. Even if I didn’t go to the ocean often, when I lived in Manhattan the beach was a summer situation only, I needed to know that it was close by.Once I moved to Los Angeles, I had a car again. On Sundays I would load up my LL Bean tote bag with scripts for the infamous weekend read and head to El Matador Beach in Malibu. Working on Sundays wasn't so bad with a view of the Pacific Ocean.Sicily, Italy’s largest region, has 992 miles of coastline surrounded by the Tyrrhenian, Mediterranean, and Ionian seas.Sunrise. Ortigia. The sea was a block away from my apartment.
So were these rocks. Erica’s five year-old daughter asked me if I was going to jump in too. I told her I didn’t swim. She’s a great swimmer and was perplexed by my answer.
Ortigia. Early morning swimmers.
Siracusa. Three small trees on a cliff spotted during an early morning jog.
Mt. Etna. View from the Monaci della Terra Nere boutique hotel on a cloudy morning.
Salina. View of Stromboli.
Salina. On the mountain near the village of Pollara.
Salina. The San Lorenzo church in Malfa.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Seven Day of Sicily - Day 5 - Ceramics
Sicily is known for its hand painted pottery.Like the cuisine, each region has it's own style. I have to ask Erica where she bought her octopus plate. I think it was somewhere near Cefalù.As I have stated before, I have no more room in my apartment, so I was only able to buy a few small bowls.I used one of the them in the photos that Gina took of the terrace project I worked on.
The larger blue and white bowl and the little eggshell one (for salt or jam) were bought at a small workshop located right on my street. Ceramiche Artiginali DoLù, Via Larga, 7 Ortigia +39 0931 449451
The other bowls were bought at a tiny store on the island of Salina. It was located on the main street in Malfa. The owners told me Dolce & Gabbana bought quite a few pieces from them. You can see the influence in their S/S 2013 collection.
Speaking of that collection, please note my fellow Americans that the black versions of these kings and queens are not the same thing as Mammy imagery from America. Context is important when looking through our very specific American lens of a different culture, history, and country. I was annoyed that their runaway (like most) had no diversity.I say this as someone who gave Gladys Knight the side-eye when she became a spokeswoman for Aunt Jemina back in the day. I didn't care that AJ's handkerchief was replaced with a relaxer. I knew that context of that brand.
Taken from the terrace of the Metropole Hotel, Taormina, Sicily.
Photos Dolce and Gabbana: Fashionista Other photos. Me and my iPhone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 4 - Ortigia's Farmers Market
I kept bumping into Erica and her parents at the market.We do have great markets in Rome but the market in Ortigia is on another level. I think it's because the food doesn't have far to travel. The freshness and variety is unreal.I'm still going on and on to Erica about the peaches I had. I'm sure she's tired of hearing about them.I didn't buy any fish but I did eat my share from the market. I'm still talking about that too.A MUST is the shop, Fratelli Burgio, located near the end of the market closest to the sea. It gets very crowded so be patient. I hear they have fantastic sandwiches and aperitivi. The line for sandwiches was long and there was only one person behind the counter. Poor guy.I bought some Pachino sun dried tomatoes in olive oil there. At thirty-two euros a kilo they were not cheap but were worth every single euro.A bowl of said tomatoes. Pachino tomatoes are grown only on the Southeastern coast of Sicily.
The fishmongers were quite lively (and flirty). I was too shy to snap a photo of the very attractive gentleman who called me Ms. New York.
Baked ricotta cheese at Fratelli Burgio.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 3 - Noto
I took a little day trip to Noto on my birthday. After a quick thirty minute ride on the shortest train I've even seen, I arrived in a small town considered to be the height of Baroque urban planning.The Duomo is a show stopper. The old town was completely destroyed in the 1693 earthquake. The way it's laid out is very organized thanks to Giovanni Battista Landolina. Working with three architects, Rosario Gagliardi, Vincenzo Sinatra, and Paolo Labisi, Landolina designed three main streets, running parallel. At the top were the aristocracy (with the best views), the clergy in the middle, and everyone else at the bottom.I had a great time in gorgeous Noto. Caffe Sicilia on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, is fantastic. I had one of the best lemon granitas of my LIFE there.My return to Ortigia had a classic Italian moment. I bought a round-trip ticket. After a long walk, downhill, to the train station I noticed everything was closed. Ten minutes later, an announcement is made over the loud speaker in rapid-fire Italian saying my train had been canceled. Thank God I understand Italian because at a pocket-sized station why would there have been an explanation also in English? I went to a gym across the street to ask where the heck the bus stop was as there were no signs with that information.There were four men at the front desk chatting and they looked like Dolce & Gabbana models but with athletic builds. The men were very dark and handsome with those striking green/grey eyes you see all over Sicily. My brain froze. I literally could not speak Italian (or English really). One dude said, "are you okay?" I blamed the heat and they were kind enough to give me specific directions.The street was silent, expect for my cursing, as I climbed back up the ridiculously long and steep hill, in the blazing hot Sicilian sun (there were NO cabs around). At the bus stop I was told that the bus service between these small towns is a lot more reliable than the train. Thanks Trenitalia!The Duomo.
A view of the Duomo from one of the terraces of the Santa Chiara church.
Love the detailing above the chandelier.
I ate a delicious Pasta alla Norma and the service was great. The reviews of this restaurant are all over the map. Two foodie friends thought the food was overrated and others go to Noto just to eat here.
While am I more of a Biggie person, I can appreciate this graffiti.
Interior of the Montevergine church.
Three bells. Shot from another terrace of the Santa Chiara church.
Sea view. In the distance.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 2 - Food and Wine
You can see and taste the Greek, Spanish, and North African influences in Sicilian cuisine.The rich agricultural diversity of the island (the interior landscape is completely different from the coast) has also played a role in making this cuisine so unique (and delicious).A separate post will be written about the Ortigia Farmers Market.Some of my favorite Sicilian foods/dishes are:Arancini - Rice balls fried with either a ragu sauce inside or eggplant (and sometimes both).Capers - Picked by hand, these small flowers buds can be quite pricey outside of Italy.Caponata - An eggplant dish usually served as an antipasta. Every region of the island has their own way of making it. I heard it takes a long time to cook. Maybe I can convince my friend Gina to make it in Rome.Couscous al pesce - Couscous with fish.Fish - It's usually prepared simply. No need for extravagant sauces and spices when the food is so fresh. Anchovies, Vongole, Sea Urchins, Swordfish, Amberjack, Grouper, Tuna, Sardines, and Sea Bream are some of the local fish you will find in Sicily.Granita - Nobody does it better than Sicily. Nobody.Pasta alla Norma - Originally from the city of Catania, this pasta dish is made with lightly fried eggplant, grated ricotta salata, and basil. I've never made this dish. I think it's time to try it.Pasta con Sarde - Pasta with sardines. Usually has pine nuts, fennel, and raisins.Sicilian Bread - Yes, it is different from the bread on the mainland. It has a golden color thanks to the durum semolina flour used from locally grown wheat.Sfincione - A pizza type dish. The dough is thicker and airier.Wine - There is a lot of excitement about Sicilian wines and their talented producers. I usually drink Piemontese, French, (and a few Lazio ones when making Roman dishes) wines at home but I'm learning more about this region thanks to my knowledgeable friends. I really enjoy wines from the Mt. Etna area.I know this sounds outrageous but I'm not a big cannoli fan. Meanwhile my partner on this series, Erica, was on a mission to try every single cannolo and cassatina in the neighborhood. Pasta alla Norma. So good.
Little cassata cakes. AKA cassatiini.
I never had a Rosé from Mt. Etna before. The waitress at Clandestino recommended it. It was very good.
Pasta with swordfish, vongole, and cherry tomatoes.
Sigh.
A white wine from Agrigento. The owner of a little shop on Via Savoia (n. 2) recommended it after I told him I was invited to a lunch featuring risotto with shrimp. It was a big hit. I went back to buy another bottle. I hope there's a shop in Rome that sells it.
One of my favorite things about late spring and summer is drinking homemade iced tea with lemon granita (tè fatto in casa con limone granita). It's like an Italian Arnold Palmer.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Of course now I'm starving. What are some of your favorites?
Seven Days of Sicily - Day One - The Duomo
During my trip to Ortigia, I saw many beautiful things and ate many dishes that were so delicious I wanted to Tweet/IG/FB about them immediately.However, one of my goals during my vacation was to slow down. I wanted to focus on what I was seeing, doing, eating at that moment. I did occasionally post a picture on social media but cut way back.My friend, Erica, is also a Sicily fan and we decided to highlight a few things we love about this incredible island for seven days. You can following Erica on Instagram HERE.First up is the Duomo.I arrived in Ortigia during the early afternoon. After unpacking, and picking up some essential groceries, I walked over to the Duomo.I was not ready.Many friends have described the Duomo and its piazza as one of their favorites in all of Italy. Yet, I was still floored by her beauty, color, and presence. It is truly one of the most magnificent buildings I have ever seen.As with other regions of Italy, the layers of history in Sicily run deep. Siracusa was one of greatest and important cities in the Greek empire. This dramatic cathedral was built in and around a 5th Century BC Doric Temple to Athena. Doric columns are visible inside and outside the church.In the 800s it was converted into a mosque by the Arabs who conquered Sicily. Then the Byzantines returned to power, only to be defeated by the Arabs again. They ruled until the Normans defeated them in 1085.The Baroque facade was added after the devastating earthquake of 1693. Somehow this very ornate style sits in perfect harmony with the Greek lines and aesthetics of the earlier structure.I made it a point to see this building every single day.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
This piazza is a perfect place to relax as the sun goes down and the locals start their passeggiata.
Life in Rome - Buon Rientro and a Dolce Far Niente Progress Report
While my family and friends in the States are enjoying the last sunrays of Summer 2014 this Labor Day, it's Il Rientro here in Italy.This time I am ready!As I wrote earlier this summer, even after all the years I've lived here, I was still resistant to the European way of vacationing. I felt guilty and unproductive.Well, I am happy to report that major progress has been made regarding my efforts to partake in the great Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente. I'm not completely out of the workaholic woods yet but these things take time.I went to Siracusa, Sicily for my birthday, staying in the historic center called Ortigia. The first two days the Internet in my apartment was down, which was a blessing in disguise. I couldn't obsessively check my emails or read news headlines.When I arrived in Oritiga, I was a one big ball of stress. By the end of the week, I was so calm not even the chaos at the Catania airport and my delayed flight could wind me up.This calmness was short-lived as it ended by my first evening back in Rome but that's a different story.It was my first trip to this area of Sicily and just what the doctor ordered. I didn't realize how badly I needed a vacation until I had one. Yes, it was a short one but I still appreciated it.The architecture, design, history, and culture were inspiring. The food was on another level. My friend and her family just happened to be staying at an apartment around the corner.I will write more about my Sicilian adventures once I sort through all my photos.It took a few days into my trip for my major breakthrough. One morning I ditched my itinerary. I kept my plan to jog along the seawall at sunrise, and then hit the farmers' market after. That was it. I'll be honest. At first it was an odd sensation to not know exactly what I was going to do the rest of the day.When Erica called and invited me to lunch with her family at their place I said, "yes" instead of my usual freak out about impromptu plans.It was a glorious day of having a delicious lunch with my friends on their terrace (which had this view),
going to the "beach" (which was two block away),
reading my books and magazines while drinking a lot of homemade Tè Freddo con Limone Granita,
and enjoying the sweetness of doing nothing.I went on to enjoy this sweetness several times during the rest of my trip. I highly recommend it.
Weekend Inspiration - Yellow and Blue - CuisinArt, Anguilla BWI
The island of St. Martin is in the background
How pretty is this yellow and blue? I was having lunch at the CuisinArt hotel in Anguilla and had to snap this picture.Yellow can be a difficult color to work with but I hope to use it in my beach house project.Buon Weekend a tutti!
Work In Progress - Caribbean Beach House - Bathroom Inspiration
A few weeks ago I went to Anguilla to check in on one of my projects. The build is going very well.When I think of the mood for a beach house, the first thing that comes to mind is relaxation.I've been looking at books in my library and pulling images from the internet for inspiration. The bathrooms don't have to be from a Caribbean beach house but must have some elements that would work in that environment.There are many decisions that have to be made. What kind of finishes? What color? If we use tile, what size?While this is a house in Anguilla, the style will not be British Colonial. It's too formal for a beach house. There will be touches (like a mahogany four-poster bed) of course but mixed with a contemporary spin on Caribbean design.Below are few spaces that caught my eye:This bathroom is from a home on the tiny Island of Mustique. I love the natural feel of it. We're already using poured cement for the kitchen counter tops. To use it again in the bathrooms might be too much.
Photo: Elle Decor
This large en-suite bathroom in a Sicilian villa has a stone sink. Love the simplicity of the shower stall and the use of wooden stools. This is a newish boutique hotel. I must see Rocca delle Tra Contrade in person. The photos are stunning.
Photo: Rocca delle Tre Contrade
I'm not a fan of shower caddies.
Our clients for the Tuscany project were very clear that they wanted built-in spaces for shampoo, soap, etc. If it's early enough in the build/renovation, I recommend going in this direction. Just make sure there's a slight slope, so water doesn't pool in the space.
A partial wall works for this project. It never gets cold.
Photo: Elements Of Style
Getting away from the neutrals for a minute, this bathroom from the La Banane hotel on St. Barths is very bright and colorful.
A fun design like this might be a great idea for one of the smaller bathrooms. Or the powder room. In a large space this color and pattern would be not be relaxing to me.
Photo: Villa La Banane
Brass fixtures are having a moment. I like them in this bathroom. I look at all this tile and worry about cleaning the grout.
Photo: Habitually Chic
I LOVE outdoor showers. The ones at Cap Juluca in Anguilla are fantastic.
Photo: Cap Juluca
A more traditional style at Oscar de la Renta's former home in the Dominican Republic.
A shower in Marrakesh. Fantastic built-in bench.
Photos: Mark D Sikes
I don't know where this house is but I like the contrast of the stone-tiled floor with the black contemporary trim on the windows and with the lines of the tub.
Photo: Pinterest
It's All About Sicily In Fathom Magazine
The award-winning Fathom Magazine is celebrating Sicily this week. I'm trilled that I get to join in the festivities.
My article is about Sicily and the solo traveler.When I booked my trip, I didn't think it was a big deal that I was traveling alone. Then once everyone and their mother kept saying, "Wow, you're going to Sicily by yourself?!", I started to get nervous.You can read about my Sicilian adventures HERE.The entire series is fantastic. I want to book a trip now.