Life in Rome - Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps
For almost eight years I walked past Palazzo Altemps at least five times a week. I'm not sure why I waited so long to finally check it out.One Friday, during lunch time, I basically had the place to myself. True, it was the dead of winter but I was surprised.The Palazzo is very close to Piazza Navona and was built during the 1500s. Archaeologists have uncovered ancient Roman structures and artifacts from the 1st century AD, which are displayed on the first floor.Cardinal Marcus Sitticus Altemps acquired the palazzo from the Riario family in 1568. He greatly extended the palazzo to showcase the family's impressive art and and book collections. There are also many standout pieces from the Boncompagni Ludovisi, Mattei, del Drago Albani, and Brancaccio collectionsThis museum is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano which also includes the Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, and Terme di Diocleziano.There is free admission to the museums on the first Sunday of the month.Below are a few pictures I snapped during my tour: 
Palazzo Altemps is opened Tuesday - Sunday from 9.00 to 19.45.Closed Mondays (except Easter Monday and during the "Culture Week"), 1 January, 25 December.The Ticket Office closes one hour before closing time.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - Bar Luce - Prada Fondazione, Milan
Hold up, how is it October already? One of my friends in the States was complaining about seeing Thanksgiving decorations already. I guess we should be grateful they weren't for Valentine's Day 2016.I have started my apartment search. It's, well, a trip. I don't know what some of these landlords are thinking. The bathroom situation is not good.I'm having a hard time finding smaller apartments that are unfurnished. Most of the apartments in the neighborhoods I'm focusing on were built for families. I don't need a huge apartment and as a small business owner, it wouldn't be financially smart to take on that kind of monthly expense.I hope to find something this month. We'll see.I took a quick business trip to Milan last month. I got completely lost searching for a to-the-trade vintage furniture store. Once i realized I was very close to the new Prada Fondazione, I had to check out Bar Luce.Bar Luce was designed by film director Wes Anderson. Anderson has directed several short films for the fashion house.It's 1950/1960's Milanese style with a touch of Anderson's quirkiness. Opened everyday from 9:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m., Bar Luce is the prefect spot to have coffee or aperitivi.There are so many wonderful design details in this space. I really need to return and spend a afternoon there, reading and writing.ADORE these lights. If I find an apartment with an ingresso/foyer that has overhead lighting, I'd love a fixture like this.
The dark wood helps anchor all the pastels. Without it, perhaps the décor would be too twee. Pink and green are fabulous together. Back in college I used to have a rugby shirt with those colors. One day while walking across the quad, an upperclassman asked me if I were an AKA. She said, "you do wear a lot of pink and green."I did. Not because I belonged to that sorority but because I wore a lot of preppy clothes in the 80s.
I didn't have a chance to see what tunes were on the jukebox.
One of my favorite Wes Anderson films. I must buy the soundtrack.
I wonder what flavor the pink cake is. So pretty.
My Return to Sicily
Hello, my name is Arlene Antoinette Gibbs and I have a Sicily problem.It's bad. Every time I go, i wish I could stay longer. There's so much of the island I haven't seen yet, for example the entire West Coast, the interior, and other islands like Stromboli, Lampedusa, etc. etc.This time I was on the island for a week, Mt. Etna then Ortigia, for vacation (and to celebrate my birthday)."It's good to back," I said to Rosa, the newish manager, when I walked into the reception room at Monaci delle Terre Nere. Last year I wrote about Monaci and my first trip to the Sicilian mainland for FATHOM.This time I stayed in the Floreale room.
The bathroom!
Photos: Monaci The view from my balcony.
Lunch was served by the pool.The first time I went to Monaci, it was raining and winter so I had no idea how spectacular the views were. The grounds are gorgeous.
The main villa at sunset. I would like to decorate a Sicilian villa one day.
One morning I jogged around the forty acre property. Most of the food served at Monaci comes from their organic gardens. There is a huge chicken coop. I hesitate to call it a coop. It's more like a palace as it's bigger than my apartment. Lucky chickens.The breakfast spread was serious. On the other side were eggs, cheeses, salumi, cakes, breads, cereals, and many other things I didn't have a chance to try.
I had to buy a jar of their honey. Fifteen percent of the honey made in Italy comes from this small town.
I had some great Sicilian wines. I love their aperitivi. Although there were more guests during this trip (the hotel was at full occupancy) fewer people went to the aperitivi. Perhaps they thought it wasn't child appropriate?
Several rooms, located a few meters from the main house, have been renovated now. The atmosphere during high season was completely different from off-season. There were lots of families and half the tourists were American.I had a moment with a fellow American guest who was so rude, it took my breath away. I believe I had a strong reaction to her snub because it was completely out of context. The vibe at Monaci is very friendly and chill. The owners, Guido and Ada, are lovely and as are the other people who work there. For this basic lady to not understand that said a lot about her.As soon as I sat down with my book by the pool, I got over it. I was in a beautiful place and no one was going to put a damper on that.A slight scent of Sicilian jasmine, and lavender filled the air. There were roosters in the background and sometimes the volcano "groaned", loudly. It was very relaxing despite the sounds coming from Mt. Etna.A grazie mille to Rosa, Sara, Federico, Nujuan, Salvatore, and of course Guido and Ada for helping make this the best birthday ever.Note: My room was in the main villa and on the same floor as the kitchen. I'm an early riser, so I never heard a peep from the kitchen or from the downstairs reception area.From Monaci, I went to Oritigia. This time I rented an apartment on the other side of the village. I couldn't understand why it was cheaper than my place from last year. It had a terrace with a partial sea view.It's because that side of the town wasn't completely regentrified, yet.As you can see in the photos below, some of the buildings are derelict and the empty former prison is on the left. I liked being only two blocks away from the farmers market but can see how that might not be appealing.I had to work a bit during my vacation but at least I had a view.
Love the old faded tiles on the right.
Before unpacking, I ran out to get pick up some yogurt, wine, and other important things. All of a sudden I heard my name and it was X, Erica's daughter. Once again, without planning it, our apartments were only blocks away from each other.The tiny piazza in front of my building at night.
The architecture here is incredible. Remember to look up.
My friends at Casa Mia wrote about Tabaré (Sicilian dialect for tray) and I had to check it out. It's a must.
On my birthday we went to Arenella beach. We got there early and scored great beach chairs, second row. It was my first trip to a Sicilian beach and I had a great time. I love how people of all shapes and sizes rock bikinis and Speedos.
Later that night we went to dinner. In Italy when it's your birthday and you invite people to celebrate with you, you pay. It makes sense to me. You're the host. I have some American friends who really have an issue with this custom but it's not just an Italian thing. In the Caribbean if you invite people out for your birthday, you pay. I get it if you're in your early 20s and you meet at a bar or something. However, by your 40s/50s and up, the whole invite people to celebrate you and then expect them to pay is a little odd to me.
After dinner Erica insisted on treating me to a post dinner drink in the main piazza. This is probably one of my favorite churches and piazzas in Italy. It is ridiculously beautiful.
I was worked up about this birthday but in the end, it turned out to be a perfect day. Thank you, Ms. Firpo and Ms. Arya.I've been back for less than two weeks and I'm already trying to figure out when I can return. I'm tempted to join one of my friends in Rome who has to go to there for work in October. Seriously.Photos (except for the first two): me and my iPhone
I Went Back to Cali - La Cienega Design Quarter - Legends 2015
Finally, my jet lag is over. It was much worse in Los Angeles and ended shortly before my return flight to Rome. How wonderful!The LCDQ Legends interior designer conference is one of the most popular events in the industry. I've heard designers call it the Coachaella or the Oscars of interior design. There were more than ten thousand RSVPs for the three-day event, with designers from over twenty-four states, and one hundred and fifty designers traveling to Los Angeles from overseas.This was my first year attending. It was fantastic. There were Interesting and informative panel discussions, fun parties, and over sixty-seven inspiring window displays.Not only did I enjoy visiting some of my favorite (and new) showrooms, I appreciated the style of my fellow decorators. Folks were not playing. It does make sense that many interior designers/decorators have a great sense of style. I forgot how super casual Los Angeles is until I saw someone walk into Urth Cafe in Beverly Hills wearing pajamas bottoms. I'm talking about the sloppy, comfortable ones you sleep in, not the dressy ones you would wear to a party.I also had Hollywood film/TV meetings but since this is not a screenwriting blog, all I will say is that everyone is talking about EMPIRE. We'll see how this hit show changes the landscape.There were many highlights and I left feeling very energized (and determined to move to a new neighborhood).Opening night gala. My friend Corrina (an interior design junkie) came with me. It was packed. The food was delicious. I felt drunk despite not drinking at all. The jet lag struggle was real that night.
The official kick off. The Bloggers Breakfast. I met Erinn Valencich from American Dream Builders. So nice. Perhaps my experience is not the norm, but I'm constantly surprised by how friendly and helpful people are in this industry. At the conference I met some serious A-listers and they couldn't be more down to earth. It's shocking!There were many famous design bloggers attending the breakfast but the room was so crowed it was impossible to move around. I found out who was at the event after seeing their Instagram feeds.Yes, I took a photo of this Italian shower head. I love that other people were also taking photos of faucets and shower heads. I could spend hours discussing such things.
I've written about Peter Dunham before. His showroom, Hollywood at Home, has moved to a new location. Beautiful. I ordered some fabric samples for my Anguilla beach house project.
You know how I feel about Peonies.
Peter's famous Fig Leaf print.
How gorgeous is this dark blue club chair at Mecox?
This table? Perfect for a bedroom, entryway, or a small office.
Everyone was so cheerful. It really unnerved me. Ha!This photo was taken at the ELLE DECOR Power Luncheon. Very pretty and again, great food.
Lulu Powers making Aperol Spritz before the "Entertaining - The Home As A Social Stage" panel, with Susan McFadden, Kathryn M. Ireland, Russ Diamond, and Lulu.The take away? Dining rooms are not obsolete, despite what developers of McMansions say. They're being used differently, less formal. I agree and wish I had one.
I read Windsor Smith's new book once I returned to Rome. I highly recommend adding it to your library. It was great to meet Windsor and to spend time in the Arteriors' showroom.
I love that Arteriors was serving cocktails at 2:30 p.m. on a Friday afternoon. Unfortunately, I was driving non-stop in Los Angeles. Still, I enjoyed the festive atmosphere.
One of the most popular events is the Moore and Giles cocktail party, co-chaired by Harbinger LA and the Hearst shelter magazines (Veranda, Elle Decor, and House Beautiful) in the Harbinger backyard.More Aperol Spritz. The Italian inspired menu was catered by Lulu Powers and was delicious.
My incredible experience ended with an intimate party at Kathryn M. Ireland's beautiful home. I forgot my phone (the HORROR!).Paloma Contreras of La Dolce Vita blog wrote a post about it.Ireland has moved her West Hollywood showroom next door to her textile printing shop on Washington street. Outside, it looks like any other nondescript industrial space. Inside, is a completely different story.I cannot believe it's been almost three years since I attended her Interior Design Boot Camp. It was one of the best investments I've made in my career. It was also a lot of fun.
Work in progress. Hand printed textiles.
Photos: My and my iPhone.
Small Bathrooms That Are Big On Style
The last few weeks have been incredibly busy.I'm working on a new project that will include a bathroom renovation. It has unique design challenges in that It's a vacation rental and the room is TINY.We want the space to function better and to be stylish. Below are three small spaces that caught my eye.Compact yet not claustrophobic. The shelving above the toilet is genius. Great use of space.
Photo: Banherio PequenoIn a small space you can use higher-end materials and finishes without blowing out your budget. Look at these floors. Stunning.
Photo: Elements of StyleLove the drama of Jenna Lyon's bathroom. These floors are spectacular as well.
Photo: Domino
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Townhouse - Pienza, Tuscany
I've read about La Bandita, a country house near Pienza and have seen photos of it in various shelter magazines/design articles.A little over a year ago, John Voigtmann and his wife Ondine Cohane opened La Bandita Townhouse converting a former convent in center of Pienza into a 12-room boutique hotel.My friend Gillian and husband stayed there recently. She told me I had to see it in person. Gillian knows my taste and said I would love it.She was correct. I know people are sick and tired of decorators using words like swoon! obsessed! and dying! when describing interiors. However, let me say, I swooned when I saw my room. I was obsessed with the design of the kitchen and was dying over the views.I've written before about the mix. It's something you see frequently in French and Italian interiors. It's not easy to pull off. Sometimes the space is too modern for the architecture and it feels cold. Or the design is so faithful to the past, it's dated.Working with Florence based architects, Arianna Pieri and Ernesto Bartolini of DA.Studio, John and Ondine have created a lovely space. In a hotel, all the beauty in the world doesn't mean a thing if the service is awful. It was fantastic and I will write about a post about that and Pienza soon.I absolutely adore this type of décor. The same architects worked on Monteverdi with interiors by Ilaria Miani.i found out that one of the main resources for La Bandita Townhouse was the store Barthel. No wonder it spoke to me as we sourced most of the items for the bathrooms in our Tuscany project from Barthel.This was my room, number 12. I arrived late afternoon. The amount of light during the day is unreal. I love that they retained the stone wall. The view from the tub was sick. The Ortigia products were a nice touch, as were the free water and soda in the mini-bar.In my next apartment I would like a canopy bed. The colors, the lighting, the bed linens, I really didn't want to leave this room after two days.I have to ask if they have a room with a desk, because La Bandita is a perfect spot for writers.
Tears of happiness when i saw this huge shower stall. I really need to move.
Gorgeous. The main hallway is the first thing you see when you walk thru the door. The convent dates from the 1400s.
Again, stone walls. A lot of natural materials with pops of orange throughout.
This kitchen is everything. In the States open-plan kitchens are preferred but not in Italy (or the Caribbean). Notice the overhead window over the bar? It drops down. Once you close the door on the left of the bar, you have a closed kitchen that lets in light. A friend of mine, who lives in a loft in Rome, did something very similar. It's a brilliant idea.
An old map of Italy in the library/lounge.
I was very excited to see so many classic LPs in different genres. I could've stayed up all night listening to music. I still have some vinyl and for my next apartment (I know, I know) I will buy a turntable.
You know how I feel about books and magazines. It was freezing outside. It was nice to curl up on the sofa and just chill.
John is former music industry executive. Some of his gold records sit on top of the bookcase.
Aperitivi time!
John has said he and Ondine wanted to create a beautiful, comfortable hotel where people could come to relax and enjoy Tuscany. They have. La Bandita is a special place. I cannot wait to return during warmer weather so I can eat outside on their fantastic terrace.Photos: (except for the one of the kitchen and of the bookcase) me and my iPhone.Click HERE to see more from La Bandita's great photo gallery.
La Bandita Townhouse
A Tub and Shower With a View
And what a view it is.
One of my friends just returned to Rome from visiting the States and she kindly picked up a copy of VERANDA magazine for me. It's not an easy magazine to find in Rome (in Milan, yes).Brooke Giannetti's Velvet & Linen blog is fantastic. She has a very large following and has posted a few photos in the past of the home she is building in Ojai, California with her architect husband Steve.It's so interesting to me that this a new build, yet their home has the warmth and vibe of a house that has been in a family for generations. You can read more about Brooke and Steve's Patina Farm journey, here.One day I would love to have a tub/shower like this. Love it. Of course it's only possible if there are no neighbors close by. A friend here has an outdoor shower on his terrace. He lives in Trastevere and the upper floors of a church and another palazzo are right across the narrow street. The man has no screens. Yeah, no.To see more photos, go to VERANDA's website.
Life in Rome - A Tour of Bulgari's Heritage Collection
Recently AWAR (The American Women's Association of Rome) had the privilege of taking a small (only twenty members) private tour of Bulgari's Heritage Collection.I RSVPed the minute I read the invitation.I haven't been inside the store since the Peter Marino renovation. One morning, when I was jogging up Via Condotti on my way to Villa Borghese Park, I'm positive I saw the architect walking out of the store. Who else would be wearing that outfit at 8:30 in the morning, in Rome?Bulgari was founded by Sotirios Bulgaris in Rome one hundred and thirty years ago. The Heritage Collection is a celebration of this history. There are over six hundred unique pieces. The jewelery, watches, accessories, and drawings were curated during years of research and archival work. Bulgari has been buying back importance pieces from auctions and private collections.While Bulgari is part of the French high-end global powerhouse LVMH, the DNA of the company is Roman.DOMUS means home in Latin and that space (located on the second floor) is where you will find pieces from the Heritage Collection.The store is gorgeous. Marino, inspired by the Pantheon and other Roman masterpieces, modernized the flagship store without stripping it of its history and charm.The foyer on the first floor. Nods to the Pantheon in this circular space.
The back stairs that lead to Domus. That pattern.
This floor and that table. No words.
Here's a picture I took of the floor so you can see the intricate tiling. Stunning. I gasped when I saw it.
Caterina Riccardi, Bulgari Brand Heritage Special Projects, explains the connection between the Heritage Collection and the Eternal City. Ms. Riccardi was the Via Condotti store manager for over thirty years. Her tour was excellent, informative and entertaining.
This sapphire necklace was bought from a private collector in the States. Be still, my beating heart.
Richard Burton once said, "The only Italian word Elizabeth knows is Bulgari." Burton gave Taylor this sapphire and diamond necklace and ring for her fortieth birthday. Actress Jessica Chastin wore the iconic necklace at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival. She was the first person to wear it since Taylor.
From 1960, a gold watch bracelet with diamonds and rubies. I do not like snakes but I'd make an exception for this one.
This is just a little taste of the incredible pieces in this collection. I was inspired by the colors, the designs, and the craftsmanship.By appointment only. To reserve a visit, contact: DOMVScondotti.visits@bulgari.com or +39 06 688101 First three photos: Bulgari.Other photos: Me and my iPhone.
Design vs. Function - American Dream Builders
Perhaps I'm naive but I believe good design incorporates a space that functions well.This is why I completely disagree with the finale (SPOILERS ahead) of the NBC show "American Dream Builders". Looking at their Facebook page, I'm not the only one.Earlier, I wrote about why I enjoyed the show.They should change the name of the show because there was nothing about Lukas's beach house that worked for the clients.The job of a decorator/interior designer is to address the needs of the client. He did not do that. All Lukas talked about was his vision. He is talented but Jay should have won.On what planet is it a good idea to paint a beach house in SOUTHERN California black? It's not edgy. A black shingled house in Maine, or Martha's Vineyard, that could be cool. Does Lukas know that that the light is different in New England compared to the Southern Californian Coast? One of the judges said the house looked like it had been in a fire.Also, Lukas did not deal with any of the design flaws of his house. That kitchen was awkward.This a beach house for a multigenerational family. Their reaction at the reveal was priceless. I adore mid-century design and would use it in a beach house but would mix it up.Nate kept saying Lukas was forward-thinking. Has Nate ever been to IKEA? I know he has traveled to Europe. This beach house would work for a single person with no kids who never entertains.Nate raved about Lukas's $30 chandelier. Again, this is in a beach house. I go to a beach house to relax. Who's going to clean it and replace the light bulbs? It's not functional.This room. Where are the young children going to hang out?
Nice to look at. Wouldn't want to sit there for a long meal. What is that statue about in the corner?
Not relaxing. These chairs would be fab in a loft apartment, not at the beach.
if the Neighborhood Council voted for the finale winner, Jay would've won hands down. Elaine was eliminated for her red family room because it didn't fit the décor of the rest of the house, but Lukas can win the whole competition for this house? Please.If they didn't want a home builder to win, don't put them in the competition.I don't know if the series has been renewed for a second season. It's a shame that the finale was such a disappointment but I enjoyed the earlier episodes.
Progetti da Sogno (aka, American Dream Builders)
The American series AMERICAN DREAM BUILDERS started airing this week in Italy on the channel LEI.Hosted by Nate Berkus, it's a mash up between EXTREME MAKEOVERS and TOP DESIGN. I have always wondered about the reality of the former. They do a lot of structural changes. How well was the construction, plumbing, and electrical work executed when they have only a week to demolish and rebuild? Could the owners afford the increase in property taxes? So many questions.One thing I really like about this show is that two teams work on two houses from a similar era and/or style. It's compelling to see how the teams agree (or not) on an overall aesthetic for their house and then how the individual designers design their rooms.There is a mix of designers, contractors, and landscape architects. Of course, there are some strong personalities. Reality TV would be boring without them.We are three episodes in and so far it's fantastic. The show is entertaining and educational. Décor is very subjective but it's interesting to hear the judges explain why they believe a room doesn't work. Sometimes it's a design issue. For example, the team did not address the layout issues. Other times, it's about the décor. Those debates get heated.I cannot wait to see who wins. There are some very talented designers on this show.https://dailymotion.com/video/x1htfrm
Io Adoro - Anguilla, British West Indies
Anguilla is quite the A-list celebrity/VIP destination these days. However, the small island has managed to retain it's relaxed, quiet charm.My most recent piece for FATHOM Magazine went live today. ANGUILLA – I wish I could say I have always appreciated this beautiful island. That would be untrue.When my family moved from New York City to the leafy suburbs of Verona, New Jersey, I knew I had to become a true American teenager. I was hampered by my parents' insistence on raising their children as if we were a family living in the Caribbean.My parents are from St. Martin (totally different from the Dutch side, St. Maarten) and both my grandmothers were Anguillian. Whenever we went to St. Martin to stay with my paternal grandparents, we ferried over to Anguilla to visit family and friends. When I was a child it, was fun to hang out with my cousins, go the beaches, and stuff ourselves on Johnnycakes, rice and peas, and salt fish cakes. But as for the stunning white beaches of the island, they were lost on me when I was older. I mean, I was a teenager. Visiting relative after relative while sitting on their verandas for hours drinking Ting was boring.The final anti-island straw happened one night when I was walking back to my aunt's house and a mongoose ran across my foot. I was done. I thought, "I could be chilling at the Short Hills Mall with my friends instead of being stuck on this tiny island."It wasn't until my parents moved to back to St. Martin after retirement and I moved to Rome that I began to understand why those trips back home were so important.To read the rest and see more pictures, click HERE.
The beach at Cap Juluca with the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten in the background.
Photo: Me and my iPHone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 7 - Art + Design
Why do I miss Sicily? There are Sicilian restaurants in Rome.Perhaps this is only an infatuation. My first trip to Sicily was just last year, which I wrote about in FATHOM. Maybe the island will lose its hold on me after a few more trips, or years. We'll see.Like the cuisine, the art and architecture of Sicily has been influenced by the diverse cultures of its various rulers.Every day I stopped by to see the Burial of Santa Lucia, painted by Caravaggio in 1608, located in the Santa Lucia alla Badia church. There is something very special about seeing art in the context that it was created for.In the early 2000's many architects and interior designers started to buy and renovate houses in the area. I kept getting lost in little courtyards and side streets. There was inspiration all around me and design elements that gave me some ideas for my Caribbean beach house project.Below are a few of my favorite things:How pretty is this packaging? I received a gift from this store on my birthday. Erica's daughter picked it out. That five year-old has excellent taste.
Photo: ortigiasicily.com
As someone who was raised Methodist, I'm still thrown by some of the more intense art in Catholic churches. My childhood church had stained glass with images of things like Jesus chilling with some shepherds.
Here is the patron saint of Siracusa, Santa Lucia.
Clever use of a satellite dish.
Spiderman on the side of the Municipal Building representing the heroic spirit of the people. I'm trying to find out who the artist is and when the work was installed.
Cool planter outside a house that faces the sea.
Rome-based artist UNO and his latest installation.
Also from Rome, Alice Pasquini. Erica and I went to see her and UNO work on their murals. This is a school in Siracusa.
The new and the old.
I saw these fishing baskets all over my neighborhood.
Love the door.
And this gate.
This alley showing a sliver of the sea was up the street.
I'm thinking about my next trip. Maybe I should go to Palermo or Cefalù, or both.
Photos, unless noted otherwise, are by me and my iPhone.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 3 - Noto
I took a little day trip to Noto on my birthday. After a quick thirty minute ride on the shortest train I've even seen, I arrived in a small town considered to be the height of Baroque urban planning.The Duomo is a show stopper. The old town was completely destroyed in the 1693 earthquake. The way it's laid out is very organized thanks to Giovanni Battista Landolina. Working with three architects, Rosario Gagliardi, Vincenzo Sinatra, and Paolo Labisi, Landolina designed three main streets, running parallel. At the top were the aristocracy (with the best views), the clergy in the middle, and everyone else at the bottom.I had a great time in gorgeous Noto. Caffe Sicilia on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, is fantastic. I had one of the best lemon granitas of my LIFE there.My return to Ortigia had a classic Italian moment. I bought a round-trip ticket. After a long walk, downhill, to the train station I noticed everything was closed. Ten minutes later, an announcement is made over the loud speaker in rapid-fire Italian saying my train had been canceled. Thank God I understand Italian because at a pocket-sized station why would there have been an explanation also in English? I went to a gym across the street to ask where the heck the bus stop was as there were no signs with that information.There were four men at the front desk chatting and they looked like Dolce & Gabbana models but with athletic builds. The men were very dark and handsome with those striking green/grey eyes you see all over Sicily. My brain froze. I literally could not speak Italian (or English really). One dude said, "are you okay?" I blamed the heat and they were kind enough to give me specific directions.The street was silent, expect for my cursing, as I climbed back up the ridiculously long and steep hill, in the blazing hot Sicilian sun (there were NO cabs around). At the bus stop I was told that the bus service between these small towns is a lot more reliable than the train. Thanks Trenitalia!The Duomo.
A view of the Duomo from one of the terraces of the Santa Chiara church.
Love the detailing above the chandelier.
I ate a delicious Pasta alla Norma and the service was great. The reviews of this restaurant are all over the map. Two foodie friends thought the food was overrated and others go to Noto just to eat here.
While am I more of a Biggie person, I can appreciate this graffiti.
Interior of the Montevergine church.
Three bells. Shot from another terrace of the Santa Chiara church.
Sea view. In the distance.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day One - The Duomo
During my trip to Ortigia, I saw many beautiful things and ate many dishes that were so delicious I wanted to Tweet/IG/FB about them immediately.However, one of my goals during my vacation was to slow down. I wanted to focus on what I was seeing, doing, eating at that moment. I did occasionally post a picture on social media but cut way back.My friend, Erica, is also a Sicily fan and we decided to highlight a few things we love about this incredible island for seven days. You can following Erica on Instagram HERE.First up is the Duomo.I arrived in Ortigia during the early afternoon. After unpacking, and picking up some essential groceries, I walked over to the Duomo.I was not ready.Many friends have described the Duomo and its piazza as one of their favorites in all of Italy. Yet, I was still floored by her beauty, color, and presence. It is truly one of the most magnificent buildings I have ever seen.As with other regions of Italy, the layers of history in Sicily run deep. Siracusa was one of greatest and important cities in the Greek empire. This dramatic cathedral was built in and around a 5th Century BC Doric Temple to Athena. Doric columns are visible inside and outside the church.In the 800s it was converted into a mosque by the Arabs who conquered Sicily. Then the Byzantines returned to power, only to be defeated by the Arabs again. They ruled until the Normans defeated them in 1085.The Baroque facade was added after the devastating earthquake of 1693. Somehow this very ornate style sits in perfect harmony with the Greek lines and aesthetics of the earlier structure.I made it a point to see this building every single day.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
This piazza is a perfect place to relax as the sun goes down and the locals start their passeggiata.
A New York City Rooftop Pool With A View
My friends in Rome are probably sick of hearing me go on and on about wanting a terrace.Well, that would be some of my friends who already have terraces. I don't think they appreciate how wonderful having a terrace is. One friend rarely uses his. I cannot understand this! Trust, once I have my terrace I will be out there all the time, even in the snow.Okay, that was an exaggeration as it snows here maybe once every twenty years or so.I don't need a huge space. Nor, a pool. However, if I had a chance to live in Keith Jacobson's home, featured in New York Magazine, I would.
A penthouse with views of the High Line? Yes.An outdoor kitchen? Yes.A full bathroom with an outdoor shower? Yes.Designed by Francis D’Haene, founder of D’Apostrophe Design and his colleague, Patrocinio Binuya, this rooftop was almost too much for me to handle in my terrace-less state.Yet, I still looked at the photos.
The landscape design was done by Miguel Pons.
Photos by David Allee
I'm glad they spared us photos of the cocktail bar.
Weekend Inspiration - Borromini - Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza
I see the top of this church every time I walk across the piazza near my house. Built from 1642-1660, it's a classic work of Baroque architecture. The architect was Francesco Borromini, aka arch enemy of Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Photo: me with my iPhone
While I am down for Bernini, it's unfortunate that Borromini is not appreciated more. His contemporaries were perceived as being stronger visual artists. Borromini's strength was more technical but that doesn't mean we should overlook the beauty of his buildings.Borromini was extremely difficult to work with and often depressed. He committed suicide in 1667.This church is just one of his masterpieces and it inspires me.Buon weekend!
Stylish Simplicity - Como Glasses - Paola Navone for Crate & Barrel
I've written before regarding how much I adore the collection Italian architect/furniture and interior designer Paola Navone has created exclusively for the American store Crate & Barrel.Her new collection is out. My siblings were kind enough to give me a gift certificate to Crate & Barrel and I had to get these glasses.
Now they are sitting at my sister's house. One day they'll make it to Rome.I love the color of the rim and the lines of the glass. Very simple and very stylish.
Life in Rome - Doria Pamphilj Galleria
I chuckle when I read articles telling tourists they can see Rome in a day.I have lived here for six years and visited regularly for three years prior and I still haven't seen everything this city has to offer.One of the places on my list was the Galleria Doria Pamphilj . Note: Sometimes the name is spelled with a "i".I have been to the café several times but never to the museum. Last week I finally went.Bellissimo. It's the largest palazzo in Rome that is still owned by the family. There are free audio guides (subject to availability). Prince Jonathan Pamphilj's narration is fantastic. He really makes the rooms come alive and it's very interesting to hear his stories about growing up in the palazzo. Jonathan and his family live in one of the apartments on the upper level of the palazzo, as does his sister Gesine and her family.There are over 550 works of art. The Doria Pamphilj family has one of the biggest private art collections in Rome. Fortunately for art lovers, the collection is opened to the public.For me the highlights were the Caravaggios, the ballroom, and the Velázquez.
Photos: Doria Pamphilj
DETAILSOpen every day from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.Last entry 6.00 p.m.Closed: 25th December, 1st January, Easter.We inform our visitors that the Palazzo Doria Pamphili is open to the public November 1st, April 25th, May 1st.TICKETSFull price: €11,00 (audio guide included – subject to availability)Concessions or Groups, children and young adults between 6 and 26 years old: €7.50Schools/ University: 5,00 €Concessions for school groups with prior reservation by fax or e-mail : info@dopart.it ; biglietteria@dopart.itAll cards are accepted except Am.Ex & DinersCONTACTSEntrance: Via del Corso, 305 – RomeTel: +39 06 / 6797323Fax: +39 06 / 6780939E-mail: info@dopart.itWebsite: www.dopart.it
Life In Rome - Palazzo Nardini
I've written before about my fascination with abandoned houses.On Via del Governo Vechhio there's an empty palazzo that I've walked by many times. Unlike some other big cities I've lived in, there are very few vacant buildings in the center of Rome. So much so that they truly stand out.One morning I noticed there were riot police at the end of the block. The doors of the building were opened and there was a large group of protesters inside. They were demanding that the county (which owns the property) renovate the space into affordable housing. I doubt that will happen given the location, red tape, and costs.Built in the late 1400s by Cardinal Stefano Nardiini, I had to check it out.
I had no idea that this building was so large.
I hope something wonderful happens with this space. It's a shame that it's just sitting there, empty.
A Tale of Two Houses
I'm always curious about abandoned houses. I wonder who lived there and what happened to the house.Renovating an old house, especially one that hasn't been lived in for a while, is not an easy task. Last week, two stories about two very different renovations were in the spotlight.First up, the New York Times wrote about the controversy surrounding the William Mason House in Thompson, CT.
Photo: New York Times
Famous interior designer Mario Buatta bought it twenty-two years ago. The Mason house is a gorgeous example of Gothic Revival architecture and was built in 1845.
At first, people in the small town were excited that a designer like Mr. Buatta bought the home. They believed the home was in good architectural hands. However, no work has been done in years. The house has become a horrible eyesore and is falling apart.
Everyone knows historic renovations are tricky and things take time. However, Buatta's dismissive attitude has alienated the town. He has worked on massive mansions four times the size of the Mason house which has thirteen rooms.
The house is located right on the village green. I understand why the residents are not happy with the snobby and arrogant "Prince of chintz."
Now for a more uplifting tale:
David Lebovitz linked to Messynessychic's post about Australians Karina and Craig Waters on his Facebook page. In 2013 the couple purchased the Chateau de Gudanes, an abandoned 18th century mansion in the Midi-Pyrénées. The chateau had been on the market for over four years.
While many people dream of taking on a project like this, the reality is that the renovation and upkeep for a place with ninety-four rooms is enormously expensive.
Those stairs!! The height of the ceilings!!
Click over to Messynessychic to see additional photos and learn more about the renovation. I cannot wait to see their progress.