Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.
I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan. I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.
Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.
It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me. However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.
My friend Marta and I met for brunch. Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10. It’s a good thing we did. The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m. The space is lovely. It’s minimalist/modern yet warm. The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful. The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.
We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.
I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.
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Closed on Mondays.
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679
I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.
I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy. I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy. I couldn't wait to leave both times. The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me. Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work. My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage? I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place. I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets. It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch. He couldn't have cared less. Our mutual friend, had the same experience. She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence. She told me I needed to return to the city. That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip. My friends who live in Florence said the same thing. I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about. August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.
No, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi). It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence. In my defense, I wasn't the only one. A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell. She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students. Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then. How could it be? I was there for four days max. They live there. They know Florence. Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time. I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed. Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop. I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno". He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me. Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return. I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains. Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto. Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year. I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money. I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy. These ravioli were light and delicious. The waiters were lovely. It was the perfect birthday lunch.
I met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede. She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company. I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto. It's my kind of place. I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos. I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards. Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.
I met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning. Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence. Currently, she lives in Florence full-time. The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago. We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day. It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in. I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.
This was my first time visiting the church San Spirito. No pictures are allowed inside. Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.
Georgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there. We did. The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.
I went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat. The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy. I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel. It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center. The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.
I took the fast train home. Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.
There are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence. Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit. If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip. A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met. I cannot wait to return.
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Life in Rome - Ercoli 1928 Parioli
I have lived in Parioli for a year now and love it. When I told people I was moving from the Historic Center to Parioli, everyone had an opinion (mostly negative)."It's so boring," was one of the main criticisms I heard regarding Parioli. Granted, it's not as exciting as living around the corner from the Drunken Ship but that's okay.There are plenty of great places in this neighborhood to get your aperitivi on and the prices are much lower than the Center. That said, it is a more residential area. There are rarely any tourists and while there are quite a few American and British expats living in Parioli, I seem to bump into them only at the DOC or Carrefour supermarkets.The latest addition to the 'hood is Ercoli 1928 Parioli and I am here for it. I met a friend for an aperitivo during the holidays. The first person I saw when we walked in was Federico Tomasselli, the bar manager and one of the best bartenders in Rome. What a very pleasant surprise! He used to be at Barnum on Via del Pellegrino. I lived on Pellegrino and spent a lot of time at Barnum because of Federico and Patrick (Patrick is now at Caffe Propaganda).My friend and I sat at the bar and loved it. The bar's specialty is Vermouth. My friend said their drink was outstanding. If you don't drink Vermouth, no worries. Ercoli's wine list is deep and they have a solid cocktails list too.I returned with another friend the other week and this time we sat in the front because the bar was still setting up.We ordered glasses of wine and the Italian cheese plate. Outstanding.The service was great and everyone was friendly. Trust me, this is not the norm in Rome where service can range from indifference to outright hostility. Ha.My friend picked up some takeout for her husband. I need to ask her how the meatballs were. The cheese selection is fantastic and will be problematic. I haven't eaten lunch or dinner here yet but have heard very positive reviews about chef Andrea di Raimo's dishes.
There are people don't care how a place looks as long as the drinks are great. I'm not one of those people. For food, it's a different story. There are wonderful restaurants that don't have much of a décor but it's okay because the food is on point. However, when it come to aperitivi/cocktails, atmosphere is also very important to me.
Ercoli Parioli knocks it out of the park. The space is divided into three areas. There's a restaurant, a deli, and the bar/cantina.The architect is Roberto Liorni, who's responsible for several of my favorite restaurant spaces including, Pastificio San Lorenzo a Roma, Rosti, and 'Gusto. The latter opened in 1998 and other restaurants are still "referencing" it. Liorni was also the architect for the film company Cattleya's headquarters. All these places have their own vibe but with his unmistakable DNA, contemporary, chic, yet comfortable.I adore the interior design at Ercoli. It's not trying to be the Roman version of a space in Soho or on Abbot Kinney. It fits the neighborhood and doesn't look like every single restaurant that has opened recently. I love the plaid...an unexpected touch.
I finished the cheese I bought. I'm trying to avoid Ercoli this week. I don't think I will be successful.
A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily
Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal. Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident. I got lost constantly. It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere. This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man. Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room. It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views. It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.
I woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna. 
It got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before. It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time. I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.
Of course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out. 
Grazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation. None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost. What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner. Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa. It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view. Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. 
Next, Modica.Had a slight fender bender. It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled. At least I wasn't driving a stick shift. I thought Modica was beautiful as well.
Three years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia. I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli. If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again. Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out. The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year! The word is out. There were small tour buses. The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related). I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.
Dinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.
By time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off. Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets. Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada. It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain. I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain. Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general. I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North. However, Sicily keeps calling me. I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring. The food and wine are incredible. The people I've met made me feel at home.
Sicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Life in Rome - Aperitivi at the Beach
Ciao Bloggisti,How's the summer treating you so far?As I wrote in my previous post, I'm trying to improve my attitude and to be more social. My friend Courtney and I had plans to meet for aperitivi on Saturday. Instead of dealing with crowds in the Historic Center on a hot Saturday evening, I suggested we go to the beach. We went to Singita in Fregene. It was fantastic!Sometimes we forget that Rome is so close to the sea. By going for aperitivi instead of lunch or dinner, we would miss beach traffic in both directions.It was just what the doctor ordered. Nice breeze, great drinks, and a beautiful sunset. We started out with non-alcoholic drinks and then switched to a mojito. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Life in Rome - Where to go for Cocktails
The wonderful women at Italy Casa Mia asked me to write a guest post about where to have delicious cocktails in Rome. It was hard work, very difficult research.
Photo: Gina Tringali However, somehow I was able to complete this assignment.Quite a bit of ink has been spilled recenty regarding how the cocktail scene has improved in Rome. I don’t know what it was like before but I agree that yes, it is possible to have a cocktail in Rome. Anyone who tells you that the only thing to drink is wine or an Aperol Spritz (not that there’s anything wrong with either of them) is incorrect.While a great bartender (or mixologist as they’re called today) is key, the atmosphere is just as important. There are some spots where the drinks are good but I cannot get into the vibe and/or décor.Of course this list is very subjective. Below are the places my friends and I tend to go to time and time again. Not on the list are a few bars some of my younger friends love. To paraphrase Lethal Weapon, “I’m too old for that foolishness.” This is a grown folks list.First up, in alphabetical order, the hotel bars. I’ve heard that back in the day (perhaps 2003?) the best chance for a decent cocktail was at a hotel bar but the prices tend to be higher.
DOM
This hotel opened two years ago on the gorgeous Via Giulia. A former convent, the tiny downstairs bar is seriously sexy with its dark greys. They make a great French 75. In warmer months, head upstairs to the lovely rooftop terrace. Note: On weekend nights, the bar gets very crowded. There’s usually a line (and a list) to get in.To read the rest of my list, click HERE. Buon drinking!
My Ten Year Anniversary.
I'm not sure why I started blogging ten years ago today.
The blogging world has changed a great deal since my first post POST. Back then nobody was making money from blogging. It was way to communicate, connect, and create.I rarely read old posts. Some make me cringe (and not just because of all the typos), others make me thankful I got the heck out Los Angeles, and then there are the posts with the hilarious comments. The randomness of the posts is bizarre. One post would be about some serious foreign policy debate and the very next day I would write about an annoying Black Eye Peas song.At first I used a pseudonym and didn't tell anyone, outside of close friends, in Hollywood that I had a blog. Like many other long-time bloggers, I don't delete old posts...even the embarrassing ones. These posts are a snapshot of what was going on in the world and/or my life at the time.There's much debate about the future of blogs and blogging. Who knows what will happen. I do know that readers are turned off by constant shilling.I'm glad I started a blog a decade ago. Through it I found my voice again and met some great people (several who are close friends to this day). I wouldn't have moved to Italy without that blog. My life would be completely different.
Self-Promotion - How do it Without Alienating Everyone?
Yes, the title is a question not a statement. This is a road my entrepreneur/freelancing friends and I are trying to navigate.I was thinking about this while walking home after meeting up with some girlfriends.
They are a dynamic group of women.However, one thing I have noticed time and time again (especially when I worked in Hollywood) is that so many of my female friends tend to downplay their success. They say they're lucky or get embarrassed when talking about their accomplishments. Meanwhile, my male friends and colleagues would proudly discuss their success and many would take credit for things they didn't even do.Perhaps there is a fine line between bragging and just stating the facts. What is it?Is being too humble holding us back? I'm not saying we need to go to a Trumpian level of bloviating but the constant self-deprecating, aww shucks thing needs to stop.Even my friends who were born with a sliver platter, hustle. True, their family's influence helped them get in the door but they stay in the room because they're great at what they do. Luck is only a small part of their success.Recently, the very talented Felicia Sullivan asked me to be part of a series she's writing on successful female entrepreneurs. At first, I wondered why would she want to interview me. My friend Erica knocked some sense into me and I did the interview. Then she told me I had to Tweet about it a few times over the next few months. I haven't. Why not?The fact that there's a popular hastag called #humblebrag speaks volumes. Why be passive aggressive? A agent friend in Hollywood told me that there's nothing wrong with with tooting your own horn as long as you also toot the horn of others. Nobody wants to see or read a feed that is me, me, me, 24/7.When I think about the self-promotion that turns me off, it's because the person only talks about themselves. Always.So I say go ahead and tell the world about the great things you're doing. How will people know unless you have a publicist? Maybe some people won't think these things are that great, special, or interesting. That's okay. It's something you're proud of.I'm going to work on my own self-deprecating responses. I now know I won't succeed if I only dwell on negative things or what I haven't accomplished yet in my career. As 2015 draws to a close, I am thinking long and hard regarding how speak about my work and my business.And yes, I'm going to retweet this interview:When I first visited Rome in 2008, Arlene took me to the most incredible Italian restaurant–one I would never have found on a map. We were introduced by a woman who was interested in adapting my memoir for film. Although the project fell through, I’m thankful for having met Arlene and for our long-distance friendship since, punctuated by my occasional visits to Italy.I admire Arlene deeply, embarrassingly so. She left a job, country, and life in pursuit of something other. She wasn’t tethered to age as a means of trapping one in one’s vocation, rather she set out to find her place in the world. Up until a few months ago she was a successful writer/producer and now tell stories in another form: interiors. I love women with verve, women who take risks, break ranks, and live without apology. Arlene is all of these things, but in the end she’s a truth-teller. I only hope to be as successful as I move through my acts. Let her story inspire you. –FSWhen I first met you, you’d recently emigrated to Rome from the U.S. Truth be told, I admired you, how brave you were to leave a successful career behind for something other. This was a time before we’d read articles about expats and second acts. Your career has spanned politics, film and entertainment—but tell us how you returned to your first love: decorating. Why did you leave producing behind?Arlene Gibbs: What timing. Until two months ago, I had two careers going on, screenwriter/producer, and decorator.When we first met, I was writing full-time and developing a few projects as a producer. Everyone told me it would be impossible to be a screenwriter/producer based in Rome (especially without a trust fund). Even after our movie Jumping The Broom was released, and importantly was a hit, I heard the same thing. Nothing changed. Nobody cared. It was a “niche” film. When I pointed out to a producer friend that there were plenty of successful British screenwriters who worked in Hollywood but lived in London, I was told, “Yes, but they are British, white, and male.”To your last question, it took me forever to see the light. Earlier this summer, one of my dear friends, who lives in Rome, said that the universe was screaming at me and I was ignoring the signs. This friend is usually not that crunchy. I needed to heed her advice.Then I read this quote from JJ Martin, an American fashion and design journalist who lives in Milan, and everything clicked.
The best advice I’ve ever received was to look at everything that comes your way as an opportunity. Do not underestimate the power of chance and fate. Do what you love, what opens you up, not what closes you down, and makes you act like an asshole. Be responsible, be loving, be caring. That’s what I advise to anyone starting out. If you truly love fashion, it will come to you.
She’s talking about fashion but it could be applied to any creative endeavor. I wasn’t an asshole when I worked in Hollywood, my former assistants still speak to me, but I was not myself. I became a very bitter person.I was recently hired for a decorating project in Los Angeles. It was my first trip back since making my big decision. It was a great experience. I returned to Rome feeling positive instead of depressed.The rest of the interview is HERE.Thanks again, Felicia!
My Return to Sicily
Hello, my name is Arlene Antoinette Gibbs and I have a Sicily problem.It's bad. Every time I go, i wish I could stay longer. There's so much of the island I haven't seen yet, for example the entire West Coast, the interior, and other islands like Stromboli, Lampedusa, etc. etc.This time I was on the island for a week, Mt. Etna then Ortigia, for vacation (and to celebrate my birthday)."It's good to back," I said to Rosa, the newish manager, when I walked into the reception room at Monaci delle Terre Nere. Last year I wrote about Monaci and my first trip to the Sicilian mainland for FATHOM.This time I stayed in the Floreale room.
The bathroom!
Photos: Monaci The view from my balcony.
Lunch was served by the pool.The first time I went to Monaci, it was raining and winter so I had no idea how spectacular the views were. The grounds are gorgeous.
The main villa at sunset. I would like to decorate a Sicilian villa one day.
One morning I jogged around the forty acre property. Most of the food served at Monaci comes from their organic gardens. There is a huge chicken coop. I hesitate to call it a coop. It's more like a palace as it's bigger than my apartment. Lucky chickens.The breakfast spread was serious. On the other side were eggs, cheeses, salumi, cakes, breads, cereals, and many other things I didn't have a chance to try.
I had to buy a jar of their honey. Fifteen percent of the honey made in Italy comes from this small town.
I had some great Sicilian wines. I love their aperitivi. Although there were more guests during this trip (the hotel was at full occupancy) fewer people went to the aperitivi. Perhaps they thought it wasn't child appropriate?
Several rooms, located a few meters from the main house, have been renovated now. The atmosphere during high season was completely different from off-season. There were lots of families and half the tourists were American.I had a moment with a fellow American guest who was so rude, it took my breath away. I believe I had a strong reaction to her snub because it was completely out of context. The vibe at Monaci is very friendly and chill. The owners, Guido and Ada, are lovely and as are the other people who work there. For this basic lady to not understand that said a lot about her.As soon as I sat down with my book by the pool, I got over it. I was in a beautiful place and no one was going to put a damper on that.A slight scent of Sicilian jasmine, and lavender filled the air. There were roosters in the background and sometimes the volcano "groaned", loudly. It was very relaxing despite the sounds coming from Mt. Etna.A grazie mille to Rosa, Sara, Federico, Nujuan, Salvatore, and of course Guido and Ada for helping make this the best birthday ever.Note: My room was in the main villa and on the same floor as the kitchen. I'm an early riser, so I never heard a peep from the kitchen or from the downstairs reception area.From Monaci, I went to Oritigia. This time I rented an apartment on the other side of the village. I couldn't understand why it was cheaper than my place from last year. It had a terrace with a partial sea view.It's because that side of the town wasn't completely regentrified, yet.As you can see in the photos below, some of the buildings are derelict and the empty former prison is on the left. I liked being only two blocks away from the farmers market but can see how that might not be appealing.I had to work a bit during my vacation but at least I had a view.
Love the old faded tiles on the right.
Before unpacking, I ran out to get pick up some yogurt, wine, and other important things. All of a sudden I heard my name and it was X, Erica's daughter. Once again, without planning it, our apartments were only blocks away from each other.The tiny piazza in front of my building at night.
The architecture here is incredible. Remember to look up.
My friends at Casa Mia wrote about Tabaré (Sicilian dialect for tray) and I had to check it out. It's a must.
On my birthday we went to Arenella beach. We got there early and scored great beach chairs, second row. It was my first trip to a Sicilian beach and I had a great time. I love how people of all shapes and sizes rock bikinis and Speedos.
Later that night we went to dinner. In Italy when it's your birthday and you invite people to celebrate with you, you pay. It makes sense to me. You're the host. I have some American friends who really have an issue with this custom but it's not just an Italian thing. In the Caribbean if you invite people out for your birthday, you pay. I get it if you're in your early 20s and you meet at a bar or something. However, by your 40s/50s and up, the whole invite people to celebrate you and then expect them to pay is a little odd to me.
After dinner Erica insisted on treating me to a post dinner drink in the main piazza. This is probably one of my favorite churches and piazzas in Italy. It is ridiculously beautiful.
I was worked up about this birthday but in the end, it turned out to be a perfect day. Thank you, Ms. Firpo and Ms. Arya.I've been back for less than two weeks and I'm already trying to figure out when I can return. I'm tempted to join one of my friends in Rome who has to go to there for work in October. Seriously.Photos (except for the first two): me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - An Escape to Sperlonga to Beat the Heat
Of course there was drama.My friend Marta and I decided to get the heck out of dodge as this heatwave is one of the worst on record. There are no signs of relief. I understand week or so with these kind of temperatures. It is, after all, July in Rome. However, an entire month of highs in the 90s and low 100s is not a good thing.Did I mention that I don't have air conditioning? I cannot keep my windows open at night as my pretty side street is filled with demonstrative high school Italian students, and drunk American exchange students until dawn.I'm waking up at 4:00 a.m. as it's impossible to sleep. One of my clients is started a major construction project this week so I cannot work remotely in the mountains or at the beach as some friends have suggested.All this to say Marta and I were READY to get out of here on Saturday but alas, Trenitalia had other plans for us.It was one of those classic only in Italy moments. The train was on time but then got stuck on the track just a few yards away from Termini Station. There was something wrong with the current. We couldn't get off the train as we were on the tracks. There was no place to safely walk. They worked on the train and tracks for TWO hours. Mind you, the train ride to Fondi is an hour or so.At last, the train returns to the station and that's when all hell broke loose. Folks were not happy. One woman was going off on the police. I thought if she were in the States they probably would've tased her, then arrested her.It's funny, when we on the train things were pretty calm. While there was some muttering, "ma che cazzo sta dicendo" (but, what the fuck is he saying?) when the conductor walked through our car to give us updates, people kept reading or chatting with their friends instead of complaining.They did have another train waiting for us, on a different track, right away. Trenitalia employees handed out bottles of water, which I thought was a nice touch.Finally, we were on our way. Instead of waiting for the bus (at this point we were starving) we hopped into a taxi mini-van with several other women who were going to Sperlonga. They had been on the same train as us. When we saw the beach, they started clapping. We kept cracking up because the driver was having a super animated conversation.In a bizarre way the timing worked out better for us. We arrived in time for lunch. The restaurant, Scylla, was on the north side of the Historic Center and we wanted to be on the south side beach. To climb back and forth wouldn't have made sense. So we sat down, had a lovely lunch, and then braved the sun to walk up and over to the other side.Everyone was snapping photos of this sign.
I forgot all about the start to our day once we arrived.
Still thinking about this dish.
Sperlonga is a Blue Flag beach between Rome and Naples.
Starting our climb back up to the Historic Center. I have written about Tiberius's ruins HERE. It's a great day trip from Rome.
A quick aperitivi in the main piazza before returning to Rome. I didn't want to leave the fresh air and cool breeze.
Fantastic signage.
The view from the bus stop.
Life in Rome - Chez Dédé Opening Party
A few years ago I wrote about how much I adore the boutique accessories label founded by Andrea Ferolla and Daria Rein, Chez Dédé.There has been a lot of retail space turnover in our neighborhood. Antique stores, artisans, etc., are shutting down and Subway fast food restaurants, and other weird sandwich shops are taking over. There have been some great additions, like the Suppli spot but for every one of those there are four or five places that leave locals scratching their heads.Via Monserrato is one of the prettiest streets in Rome. When I saw the large for rent sign where Ilaria MIani's showroom used to be, I became very nervous. What kind of janky business would set up shop on this street?Then I saw this:
YAS!The store had its opening last week. Erica and I walked over and bumped into a bunch of our neighbors. One of our favorite bartenders, Fabrizio from Pierluigi, made the Kir Royales.Unfortunately, for me, the store is stunning. I should just leave my wallet there and let them take my money. All of it.Erica completely fan-girled LInda Rodin. I don't blame her. Ms. Rodin is a style icon for a reason. She was so gracious and didn't give us the side-eye for geeking out.I think I need to treat myself to a nice Grand Sac bag for my birthday. It's a big one (no, I'm not going to say which birthday it is as I still work in Hollywood). I haven't decided which bag yet. The island of Salina is one of my favorite places in the world but I also love the colors/style of the Portofino, Kenya, and Dubai bags. I haven't been to any of those places, so I think I should go with the Salina bag.Below are photos from the opening. Grazie mille, Daria for the invite!EDIT:Okay, I wrote this yesterday with the plan to publish today. I like to proof read before publishing yet, some typos still make it through. Grrrr.On Saturday my friend Courtney called me and said she had to speak with me urgently on Sunday. I asked what was wrong. Why couldn't she tell me over the phone? I was working all day on Sunday but said I would meet her in the afternoon. Erica wanted me to stop by her daughter's lemonade stand. I said I was on my way to meet Courtney but would stop by. I was worried about Courtney. Erica said she was too and hoped that everything was okay.I show up at Etablli. Courtney sends a SMS saying she's on her way and she asks me to order her a glass of wine. What the heck was going on? Was her news so heavy she needed to have a drink in hand?She walks in and Erica (!) is right behind her. They say, "Happy Birthday" and then this happened:
I had no idea they were planning this! Erica thought I was going to buy the bag before my birthday so she and Courtney went into action over the weekend. My birthday isn't until August 26th.I was/am floored. I am not an easy person to surprise and they totally got me. Well played ladies, well played. I love my bag.
Andrea is a very talented illustrator.
Linda Rodin. Fabulous.
Erica and Linda.
So true.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - The Flaminio Flea Market
Borghetto Flaminio is not as well known as the famous Porto Portese market. The latter has more furniture but Flaminio is the market to check out for authentic vintage/used designer clothes and interesting tableware.As with any flea market there could be some fakes, but this market has a good reputation. Many of the vendors are regulars. If they were selling fake Prada, Gucci, Hermès, etc. the word would get out pretty quickly.Borghetto Flaminio is tiny. I suggest getting there early. It's packed with fantastic finds. I hadn't been there in years so when my friend, artist and florist Marta, suggested we check it out, I was ready.A cool tea set from the 40s.
Lovely monogrammed vintage linen.
A taste of Hermès. This was the most popular vendor in the market. They also had some drop dead gorgeous vintage Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Fendi bags.
Love this Murano glass set from the 60s.
Marta was VERY excited about this patent leather Prada bag.
Sundays (except holidays)Piazza della Marina, 32Sundays, 10AM – 7PM€1.60 entrance feeFrom mid-September to mid-July
Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas
I cannot believe it's Christmas 2014 already. Where did this year go?In a sea filled with awful news (I really need to ease up on how much I watch and read everyday), it's good to be reminded of joyous things.Last Friday my friend, Gina, invited me to meet her, Rachel, and Elizabeth at their friend Alice's holiday pop-up bakery. Alice Is a food stylist and cook. Her gingerbread cookies were delicious. I wonder if it's possible to order some during the off season. I must investigate.I loved the simple decorations, the Prosecco, and most importantly, sharing them with friends old and new.
It's not easy to be far away from my family during the holidays, but I feel very fortunate to be surrounded by an incredible group of friends.Merry Christmas!!
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 7 - Art + Design
Why do I miss Sicily? There are Sicilian restaurants in Rome.Perhaps this is only an infatuation. My first trip to Sicily was just last year, which I wrote about in FATHOM. Maybe the island will lose its hold on me after a few more trips, or years. We'll see.Like the cuisine, the art and architecture of Sicily has been influenced by the diverse cultures of its various rulers.Every day I stopped by to see the Burial of Santa Lucia, painted by Caravaggio in 1608, located in the Santa Lucia alla Badia church. There is something very special about seeing art in the context that it was created for.In the early 2000's many architects and interior designers started to buy and renovate houses in the area. I kept getting lost in little courtyards and side streets. There was inspiration all around me and design elements that gave me some ideas for my Caribbean beach house project.Below are a few of my favorite things:How pretty is this packaging? I received a gift from this store on my birthday. Erica's daughter picked it out. That five year-old has excellent taste.
Photo: ortigiasicily.com
As someone who was raised Methodist, I'm still thrown by some of the more intense art in Catholic churches. My childhood church had stained glass with images of things like Jesus chilling with some shepherds.
Here is the patron saint of Siracusa, Santa Lucia.
Clever use of a satellite dish.
Spiderman on the side of the Municipal Building representing the heroic spirit of the people. I'm trying to find out who the artist is and when the work was installed.
Cool planter outside a house that faces the sea.
Rome-based artist UNO and his latest installation.
Also from Rome, Alice Pasquini. Erica and I went to see her and UNO work on their murals. This is a school in Siracusa.
The new and the old.
I saw these fishing baskets all over my neighborhood.
Love the door.
And this gate.
This alley showing a sliver of the sea was up the street.
I'm thinking about my next trip. Maybe I should go to Palermo or Cefalù, or both.
Photos, unless noted otherwise, are by me and my iPhone.
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 4 - Ortigia's Farmers Market
I kept bumping into Erica and her parents at the market.We do have great markets in Rome but the market in Ortigia is on another level. I think it's because the food doesn't have far to travel. The freshness and variety is unreal.I'm still going on and on to Erica about the peaches I had. I'm sure she's tired of hearing about them.I didn't buy any fish but I did eat my share from the market. I'm still talking about that too.A MUST is the shop, Fratelli Burgio, located near the end of the market closest to the sea. It gets very crowded so be patient. I hear they have fantastic sandwiches and aperitivi. The line for sandwiches was long and there was only one person behind the counter. Poor guy.I bought some Pachino sun dried tomatoes in olive oil there. At thirty-two euros a kilo they were not cheap but were worth every single euro.A bowl of said tomatoes. Pachino tomatoes are grown only on the Southeastern coast of Sicily.
The fishmongers were quite lively (and flirty). I was too shy to snap a photo of the very attractive gentleman who called me Ms. New York.
Baked ricotta cheese at Fratelli Burgio.
Photos: Me with my iPhone
Seven Days of Sicily - Day 2 - Food and Wine
You can see and taste the Greek, Spanish, and North African influences in Sicilian cuisine.The rich agricultural diversity of the island (the interior landscape is completely different from the coast) has also played a role in making this cuisine so unique (and delicious).A separate post will be written about the Ortigia Farmers Market.Some of my favorite Sicilian foods/dishes are:Arancini - Rice balls fried with either a ragu sauce inside or eggplant (and sometimes both).Capers - Picked by hand, these small flowers buds can be quite pricey outside of Italy.Caponata - An eggplant dish usually served as an antipasta. Every region of the island has their own way of making it. I heard it takes a long time to cook. Maybe I can convince my friend Gina to make it in Rome.Couscous al pesce - Couscous with fish.Fish - It's usually prepared simply. No need for extravagant sauces and spices when the food is so fresh. Anchovies, Vongole, Sea Urchins, Swordfish, Amberjack, Grouper, Tuna, Sardines, and Sea Bream are some of the local fish you will find in Sicily.Granita - Nobody does it better than Sicily. Nobody.Pasta alla Norma - Originally from the city of Catania, this pasta dish is made with lightly fried eggplant, grated ricotta salata, and basil. I've never made this dish. I think it's time to try it.Pasta con Sarde - Pasta with sardines. Usually has pine nuts, fennel, and raisins.Sicilian Bread - Yes, it is different from the bread on the mainland. It has a golden color thanks to the durum semolina flour used from locally grown wheat.Sfincione - A pizza type dish. The dough is thicker and airier.Wine - There is a lot of excitement about Sicilian wines and their talented producers. I usually drink Piemontese, French, (and a few Lazio ones when making Roman dishes) wines at home but I'm learning more about this region thanks to my knowledgeable friends. I really enjoy wines from the Mt. Etna area.I know this sounds outrageous but I'm not a big cannoli fan. Meanwhile my partner on this series, Erica, was on a mission to try every single cannolo and cassatina in the neighborhood. Pasta alla Norma. So good.
Little cassata cakes. AKA cassatiini.
I never had a Rosé from Mt. Etna before. The waitress at Clandestino recommended it. It was very good.
Pasta with swordfish, vongole, and cherry tomatoes.
Sigh.
A white wine from Agrigento. The owner of a little shop on Via Savoia (n. 2) recommended it after I told him I was invited to a lunch featuring risotto with shrimp. It was a big hit. I went back to buy another bottle. I hope there's a shop in Rome that sells it.
One of my favorite things about late spring and summer is drinking homemade iced tea with lemon granita (tè fatto in casa con limone granita). It's like an Italian Arnold Palmer.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Of course now I'm starving. What are some of your favorites?
Life in Rome - Buon Rientro and a Dolce Far Niente Progress Report
While my family and friends in the States are enjoying the last sunrays of Summer 2014 this Labor Day, it's Il Rientro here in Italy.This time I am ready!As I wrote earlier this summer, even after all the years I've lived here, I was still resistant to the European way of vacationing. I felt guilty and unproductive.Well, I am happy to report that major progress has been made regarding my efforts to partake in the great Italian tradition of Dolce Far Niente. I'm not completely out of the workaholic woods yet but these things take time.I went to Siracusa, Sicily for my birthday, staying in the historic center called Ortigia. The first two days the Internet in my apartment was down, which was a blessing in disguise. I couldn't obsessively check my emails or read news headlines.When I arrived in Oritiga, I was a one big ball of stress. By the end of the week, I was so calm not even the chaos at the Catania airport and my delayed flight could wind me up.This calmness was short-lived as it ended by my first evening back in Rome but that's a different story.It was my first trip to this area of Sicily and just what the doctor ordered. I didn't realize how badly I needed a vacation until I had one. Yes, it was a short one but I still appreciated it.The architecture, design, history, and culture were inspiring. The food was on another level. My friend and her family just happened to be staying at an apartment around the corner.I will write more about my Sicilian adventures once I sort through all my photos.It took a few days into my trip for my major breakthrough. One morning I ditched my itinerary. I kept my plan to jog along the seawall at sunrise, and then hit the farmers' market after. That was it. I'll be honest. At first it was an odd sensation to not know exactly what I was going to do the rest of the day.When Erica called and invited me to lunch with her family at their place I said, "yes" instead of my usual freak out about impromptu plans.It was a glorious day of having a delicious lunch with my friends on their terrace (which had this view),
going to the "beach" (which was two block away),
reading my books and magazines while drinking a lot of homemade Tè Freddo con Limone Granita,
and enjoying the sweetness of doing nothing.I went on to enjoy this sweetness several times during the rest of my trip. I highly recommend it.
Weekend Inspiration - Happy - Pharrell Williams
Yesterday the UN, and people all over the world, celebrated International Day of Happiness.Given all the horrible things happening here on planet Earth, it would be very easy to shrug and think there's nothing to be happy about.Sometimes when I'm in a very good mood, I get a little freaked out. Why am I in a good mood? I should be cynical, depressed, and anxious. It's as if I have no right to be happy. I meet a lot of expats in Rome. Many are not happy and are suspicious of those who are. Being happy is not "keeping it real." We end up fueling each others' fire.One of my dear friends said I should avoid miserable people. Why get sucked into their constant negativity and pessimism? True, we all have bad days, weeks, even months, but as I get older I find I have less patience for people who complain ALL the time but never do anything to change/improve their situation.I tend to worry a lot, mostly about my future. How will I pay my bills? Will my business continue to grow? Will I ever be fluent in Italian? Why is Drake so popular? I lie awake at night and dwell on things I have no control over. This is not healthy and I'm working on it.When I'm happy it's not because anything has really changed. I still have the same bills, worries, and issues. However, sometimes I do remember that I am extremely fortunate in ways that cannot be measured in dollars or euros.It won't be easy but I'm going to try my best to do the opposite of what I normally do, which is to worry and complain.Another friend proclaimed that this was going to be a great year. Based on what? Nothing. She believes it and therefore is going to do everything in her power to make it so.I like the why she thinks.Buon weekend!(I adore this video. I have to restrain myself from dancing when I hear this song while jogging.)[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6Sxv-sUYtM&w=560&h=315]
Stylish Simplicity - Williams Sonoma - Rustic Italian Platter
The holiday season is upon us. Lights have just started to go up in my neighborhood and I saw a few festive window displays this morning on Via Condotti and Via Babuino.I haven't seen any panettone movie commercials. Several friends have assured me they are coming. Excellent.One of my goals for 2014 is to entertain more. Yes, I know it's a little early to think about these things. I can't help it.My apartment is small but I had a friend, Susan, in New York City who lived in a studio that was smaller than my place and yet she had dinner parties, Oscar parties, cocktail parties, let me introduce you to my new spinning teacher parties, etc.Her space had a different layout. However, I can still be inspired by many of her fantastic ideas.My mom, like Susan, has a great selection of serving trays and platters. Some she received as wedding gifts fifty years ago.I actually enjoyed setting the dining room table when my parents had dinner parties. My mom was occupied with cooking, my dad was the bartender, and us kids were "in charge" of the table.Okay, so my mom really had the last word about what was going on the table. When I was old enough, it was my job to iron the tablecloth and the napkins. While I STRONGLY dislike ironing my sheets (it takes forever), this party prep was fine with me.The last time I was in St. Martin, one of my friends (and former boss) was on the island and stopped by for a visit. I looked through my parents' collection to find the right tray for aperitivi and thought about all the fun holiday dinners and parties. I also realized that I need to step up my platter game.This one is gorgeous. It's from Williams-Sonoma and made in Umbria.This shade of blue is one of my favorites.
This platter is stylish simplicity.
Stylish Simplicity - Peperoncini (Tiny Peppers)
My friend Taiye finally had a break during her international book tour and was making lunch at her place. I wanted to pick up some flowers.I went to my flower stand in Campo dei Fiori but none of the flowers I had in mind were in season.Instead, I decided to go with some peperoncini.
So simple, including the presentation.I love the burst of color they bring to a room on a cold fall day. I plan to pick up some red ones later in the week.If you haven't read Taiye's critically acclaimed book, Ghana Must Go (La Bellezza Delle Cose Fragili in Italian), get thee to a bookstore or online. It's fantastic.