Where To Go In Rome
I’m not surprised by how crowded Rome is these days even though we’re months away from the height of the high season. My friends who work in hospitality here tell me that hotels are booked solid until November (!) with August pretty available. More restaurants and cafes are staying open during August in the Historic Center now. However, I still don’t recommend Rome in August, especially if it’s your first trip. It’s too hot and the locals who don’t work in tourism/hospitality clear out. Did I mentioned how hot it is?
I’m receiving so many emails and DMs regarding where to go/what to do in Rome. I wrote a post where to eat HERE and where to drink HERE.
Below are my suggestions:
The Galleria Villa Borghese. This is the museum I suggest people go to if they don't have time to visit the Vatican Museum (or even if they do). It's small. There’s a two hour limit. You have to make reservations and can do so online. The permanent collection is fantastic. It’s in a beautiful villa in one of Rome’s prettiest parks. I recommend spending time in Villa Borghese Park too.
Museum Palazzo Altemps - near Piazza Navona, unless a student group is on a field trip, this museum is rarely crowded. Tiny but interesting. Wrote about it HERE.
Outside of the Centro Storico is Montemartini. Very unique space. Wrote about it HERE.
Another favourite (and often overlooked) museum is Galleria Doria Pamphilj - get the audio tour. It’s narrated by a member of the family.
Museo dell Ara Pacis - The exhibits change but the altar created for Augustus, 9 BC, is upstairs. The building, designed by architect Richard Meier, was quite controversial as it’s one of the few newish/modern buildings in that area and people said it looked like an air conditioning unit.
Capitolini Museum - One of the oldest museums in the world, you will find a lot of history and pieces from Ancient Rome. The views from Piazza del Campidoglio, and the cafe of the museums, are great. This is where City Hall is located.
There are over nine hundred churches in Rome, some favorites:
San Clemente - it's worth the fee to go down to the ground level to see relics from when it was a pagan temple
Santa Maria del Popolo - the Caravaggios
Santa Maria in Trastevere - the mosaics
San Luigi dei Francesi - this is the French Catholic church in Rome. More Caravaggios
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere - located on the quieter side of Trastevere
Sant’ Agnese - in Piazza Navona
Santa Maria in Maggiore Basilica - that ceiling
Saint Peter's Basilica - note, there can be long security lines
San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane - this small church is a Borromini masterpiece and many people walk right by it
Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza - another Borromini masterpiece. Sometimes there are free concerts in the courtyard
Basilica Santa Anna Maria in Ara Coeli - located next to Piazza del Campidoglio (there are a lot of steps) this church is the church of Rome, Senatus Populusque Romanus. I went to a midnight Christmas Mass here and it was very moving.
Not a church but a cemetery. Cimitero Acattolico, also known as the Protestant Cemetery, is where many famous poets, artists, writers, etc., who were not Catholic and/or Italian are buried. The grounds are beautiful. Shelley himself said so and he was buried here after he drowned in the Bay of Lerici.
Of course:
The Trevi Fountain - gets crowded... go very early or late
Piazza Navona - the Bernini fountain!
Piazza Farnese - it’s very close to Pz Navona. Palazzo Farnese is the French Embassy and there are two pretty fountains in this piazza.
Views from the Giancolo HIll - The fountain is breathtaking too
Doria Pamphilj Park - Along with Villa Borghese, this is one of the largest parks in Rome
The Pantheon - get there early or before the cruise ship lines.
The Colosseum/The Forum - It’s a good idea to get a guided tour, especially for the Forum
The Old Jewish Quarter - Second only to Venice, this is one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world. Of the 1023 citizens deported to Auschwitz, only 16 survived. Keep an eye out for the Sampietrini stones covered with a brass plates with their names in front of their homes. This is where the infamous Turtle Fountain is located.
The View from the top of the Spanish Steps - on a clear day it’s quite pretty and I love the Bernini fountain at the bottom of the steps in Piazza di Spagna
Interesting neighborhoods outside the Centro Storico:
EUR - for the history and fascinating architecture. Read more HERE.
Garbatella - read more HERE.
Walk along Via Appia Antica. Car traffic is limited on Sundays to the few people who live on the Appia. Read more HERE.
SHOPPING:
Check out the stores on Via Babuino (high end) and in Monti (mid-to high). Both streets have clothing and design stores.
For design, Via Margutta has some great shops, like the store BLEND (which changed its name from Flair).
Chez Dede on Via Monserrato is wonderful and one of my favourite stores in Rome. The whole street is great for shopping.
Many of the international luxury brands, Prada. Gucci, etc. are on Via Condotti and its side streets.
It’s Christmas Time in Rome!
I love Rome this time of year. So festive.
Store windows aren’t a thing here like NYC, Paris, or London but there are plenty of street decorations. I’m happy to report that the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona is back and the Christmas Tree in Piazza Venezia is not a train wreck this year.
It’s a great time to visit. Book in advance though. The weeks between Christmas and Befana are popular and the Historic Center will be packed.
Work has been bananas but I did managed to take some photos this week after running errands for a client.
I’m trying to make more reels. Below is my latest attempt featuring a classic Christmas song.
Dream of Italy: Travel, Transform, and Thrive
Buongiorno from Rome!
Things have been quite hectic here even though we're in the middle of summer. I'm staying put this year. I might go away for a long weekend in late August but it depends on what's going on with this Delta variant.
The tourists are back. Not pre-pandemic number of course but what a change from a few months ago. People are so excited to be here. For those who love Italy and/or would like to do some armchair traveling, there's a special Dream of Italy episode currently airing on PBS stations nationwide (USA). It's part of their pledge season, with a notable appearance by actor Joe Mantegna, with host Kathy McCabe.
Kathy and I looking at the gorgeous architecture on Via Monserrato. One of the prettiest streets in Rome.
In this special Kathy interviewed expats/immigrants who have moved to Italy part-time or full-time. She focuses on eleven essential elements of the Italian lifestyle – the land, food, family, art & culture, beauty, pace of life, passion, movement, community, celebrations and sense of home– through our stories. Kathy discusses how one can incorporate the values, inspiration, and beauty of Italy into their lives. There are also practical tips for people who are interested in moving to Italy for a sabbatical or permanently.
Interview with Kathy at Cantiere Galla Design showroom. I spend a lot of time here for clients.
Some of the people who were interviewed (Sting, Trudie Styler, Francis Mayes, Francis Ford Coppola) are very famous. Some, ahem me, are not. We all have unique stories and experiences of how and why we came to Italy. For more information and to find the airdates for your area click HERE. At the moment it's only airing in the USA and some areas in Canada that receive PBS stations. It should be on available for international viewers in 2022.
Some BTS with friends on the rooftop terrace of Hotel de la Ville.
This special was filmed before the pandemic. I'm thrilled to be a part of this program that speaks to the wonderful things about living in Italy.
Chatting with Ciao Bella!
I know I'm late to the game but I've just recorded my first podcast interview. I have mentioned my friend Erica Firpo's podcast CIAO BELLA on social media before. It's fantastic and I'm not saying that because she's a close friend.
This description of Ciao Bella sums it up perfectly.
"Italy's 21st-century creators - contemporary artists and artisans, heritage brands and innovative aesthetes, chefs, experts and more who are defining, redefining and evolving Italy.
Fashion. Food. Art. Travel. Design. Innovation. Tradition. And more. Cocktail conversations and behind-the-scenes visits that will make you want to pack your bags and go!"
I'm thrilled to be in the company of other Italy based creatives and to discuss what it is we love (and sometimes don't love so much) about this country.
In this episode we talked about working in Italy, interior design, Reno Italiano, and the beach house project I recently finished in Anguilla, BWI.
Erica and I met at Ciampini Caffe, one of our favourites places in Rome. Of course while we were there, construction started on an apartment above us.
Rome Report – What’s In Season At The Farmers Market?
Buongiorno!
It’s good to be home. I do miss my family, the beaches, and the warm baguettes, of course but three months is a long time to be away.
One thing I love most about living in Italy is grocery shopping. Yes, that’s correct. When I lived in Los Angeles, I had business lunches and dinners almost every weekday (and some weekends). When I did cook, I would think about what I wanted to make and then go to the Gelson’s in my neighborhood or to Bristol Farms and buy what I needed.
I was a big fan of the Santa Monica Farmers’ market and maybe one or two Saturdays a month I would hop on The 10 and pay $30 for three green peppers. The produce was outstanding but very expensive. The market was open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.
When I moved to Rome and found the Trionfale Market I couldn’t get over the quality of the ingredients (Santa Monica level) and how reasonably priced it was. One third to half of what I was paying in Campo dei Fiori’s market. I do have excellent supermarkets in my neighborhood but I buy all my produce and occasionally meat and fish at the market. My meat consumption plummeted once I move to Italy. I eat more grains and vegetables now, it’s easier here. I don’t miss the meat and when I do buy it, I know where it’s coming from. Meat is definitely more expensive here than in the States. It’s a once a week thing or maybe once every other week.
I had to completely rethink how I cook and shop for food after I moved here. One day I wanted to make a broccoli frittata. I cannot tell you why I was fixated on that dish that weekend but I wrote out my little list and off to the market I went.
I got to Trionfale and there was no broccoli to be found. It wasn’t in season. I was thrown! One vendor told me I could probably buy some at a supermarket but he warned me that it wouldn’t taste that great. Now, I have a better sense of what’s in season. I do cook “international” foods as well but even then; I try to keep it seasonal. I know my palate has changed since I've moved to Rome. For example, I used to eat tomatoes all the time that had no flavor. I spent my formative years in New Jersey. I know good tomatoes. My dad used to grow them in our vegetable garden yet, there I was buying tomatoes that tasted like cardboard. Never again! Even the out of season supermarket tomatoes here tastes better.
I’ve been gone a while so I was very curious to see what currently was in season. I went to the Mercato Flamino II.
Look at these beauties!
Puntarelle found only during the winter. The salad, made with garlic and anchovies, is very Roman (and very good).
This neighborhood is east of mine. It’s a bit of a walk but not as far as Trionfale. I usually go to Trionfale if I need to see my butcher. There’s a great butcher closer to me but we call them Diamonds.
These markets are open six days a week Monday – Saturday. There are two small ones very close to my house or I can go to the bigger ones in Trieste, Prati, or near Termini.
The market by Circo Massimo (open on weekends) is outstanding. That market is local. Farmers and food from this region only.
Buon weekend a tutti!
The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *
Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.
This view.
Livia getting her Prosecco on.
Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met. Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude. Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth. She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer. Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.
The lunch Violante prepared was delicious. The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous. I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.
Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.
Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.
Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.
As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.
Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.
Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.
We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.
We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.
Caffe realness.
It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.
The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.
Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.
Plate designed by Violante.
Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.
Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.
BANANAS!
Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events. For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.
*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.
Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.
I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan. I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.
Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.
It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me. However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.
My friend Marta and I met for brunch. Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10. It’s a good thing we did. The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m. The space is lovely. It’s minimalist/modern yet warm. The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful. The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.
We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.
I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.
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Closed on Mondays.
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679
Marcello Mastroianni Exhibit at the Museo dell'Ara Pacis
Happy New(ish) Year!
I’ve read it’s okay to say this until the end of the month. I made it just under the wire. I cannot believe February 1st is next week.
I’ve been meaning to check out the new exhibit at the Ara Pacis since the day it opened. It closes February 17th. If you live in Rome or are planning to visit, I recommend seeing it.
I loved learning more about Mastroianni’s childhood and family. I knew he was a stage actor for years before becoming a film star but had not seen many photos from that era. I didn’t know producer Dino de Laurentiis (grandfather of Giada) wanted Paul Newman for the lead in “La Dolce Vita”. Fellini said no. I’m trying to picture how different the film would’ve been.
Mastroianni was very handsome and had charisma for days but didn’t want to be seen as the cliché “Latin Lover”. In many films he upended the stereotype, playing anti-heroes who didn’t know how to deal with shifting gender roles, political/economic instability, and changing social mores.
Along with set photographs, one sheets, and short clips from several films, there were also a few costumes from his movies, including an iconic dress worn by Sophia Loren.
The exhibit is well organized, translated (English), and curated. If you love movies, the arts, Italian history, it’s a must.
Photos:Museo dell'Ara Pacis
Museo dell'Ara Pacis
Lungotevere in Augusta - 00186 Roma
Opening hours
Open daily, from 9.30 to 19.30
Last admission 1 hour before closing time
Italian Chic - by Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla
I have written about Franco - Italian Chez Dédé before. I heard about this incredibly talented and creative couple, Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla, from the late great Wonderfool. My friend Courtney and I met the lovely Daria at the store/spa and wanted to buy all their bags.
Daria and Andrea are quite modest. I didn't learn until this year (!) that they are the ones responsible for the typography of Pasta Garofalo, one of my favorite pasta brands. Okay, now that I think about it, this isn't a topic that would come up in everyday conversation.
There was some skepticism when they first opened their store. Why Rome? Why not Florence or Milan? An atelier/boutique/gallery like Chez Dédé would make more sense in those cities. There has been a great deal of negative press (local and international) about the state of Rome these days. Yes, the situation could be better and it's important not to ignore what is happening but walking into their shop is a much needed reminder of the reasons why we fell in love this city and country in the first place.
Their book ITALIAN CHIC is a must for anyone who loves Italy, photography, illustrations, or/and travel. It's not a guide book per se but more of a coffee table book filled with beautiful imagery. It was just published by Assouline and is available at their shops or online. The Chez Dédé store has a few limited edition copies left with a special cover featuring my beloved Sicily.
Photographed by Daria and illustrated by Andrea, ITALIAN CHIC is an intimate peek at some of their favorite places in Italy, from top to bottom. It's a love letter of sorts to a country that has inspired them. As Daria and Andrea said to Architectural Digest, “If we were not in Italy, then Chez Dédé simply would not exist,” Reina says. “We are both in love with Italy and the Italian lifestyle is certainly an integral part of our entire creative process.” Ferolla adds, “Italy cultivates the excellence of the ‘well done’ and of the simple and sophisticated style. Daria and I are heirs of this culture that reflects in each and every expression of Chez Dédé’s creative thinking.”
Daria and Andrea will be in New York City the week of October 14th for book signings. There will be an installation of Andrea's illustrations in one of Bergdorf Goodman's famous windows. Check their Instagram feed for more information (and because it's fantastic).
Photos (except for the cover): Assouline
September!
I hope everyone had a wonderful summer.Yes, I know technically it's still summer despite the fact that some retailers in the States are already selling Spiced Pumpkin Latte mixes and there are bloggers talking about Halloween.
I don't understand this rush. Let's enjoy this month and getting ready for fall. This is my favorite time of year/season. Not that I dislike the other three (well maybe winter, lack of sun and daylight is not my scene) but there's something about fall that makes me happy. I was one of those geeky kids who couldn't wait to buy back-to-school supplies. In my young mind there weren't many things more exciting that a Mead Trapper Keeper notebook.
Unfortunately, back-to-school shopping for clothes wasn't as fun as my Caribbean mom was not about that life. Every time I asked for something that EVERYONE was wearing, my mom would say that I was going to school to get an education, not for a fashion show. My dad backed her up as he didn't know (or care) about the difference between Girbaud, or Guess, jeans and a random pair from wherever.
I still look at fall as a beginning even though I graduated from college back in the Stone Age. Like spring, it's an opportunity to hit the reset button.
One of the color trends for Fall 2018 is this deep blue called Sargasso Sea.
Photo: Pantone
I’m feeling this cape but I might be too short for this lewk. Love the pop of color from Ms. Palermo’s shoes. Great combo.
Photo: Olivia Palermo, Refinery 29
This classic pattern from Schumacher is an excellent example of Hollywood Regency glamour.
There are so many beautiful colors to choose from but this one is in my top three, okay five.
Photo: Le Creuset
I cannot write about September without listening to this old school favorite. It dropped in 1978 and if you play it at any wedding reception, party, or cookout now people will still dance.
Here's to a great fall!
p.s. Here's a fantastic piece from NPR regarding why this song is so popular years later.
I asked Jeffrey Peretz, a professor of music theory at New York University's Clive Davis Institute, what makes that groove so powerful. He says a lot of it has to do with how the music unfolds. The song's very structure is an endless cycle that keeps us dancing and wanting more."
There's four chords in the chorus that just keep moving forward and never seem to land anywhere — much like the four seasons," he says. "It's the end of summer, it's the beginning of fall, it's that Indian summertime, it's the transition from warm to cool."
The trigger for that yearning feeling, Peretz says, is the opening line. White asks, "Do you remember?" and we supply the memories. It's a song that can bring all of the generations together, which makes it perfect for family gatherings. The true meaning is up to us — including, Allee Willis says, that strangely specific date."
We went through all the dates: 'Do you remember the first, the second, the third, the fourth ... ' and the one that just felt the best was the 21st," Willis explains. "I constantly have people coming up to me and they get so excited to know what the significance was. And there is no significance beyond it just sang better than any of the other dates. So ... sorry!"
Palazzo Merulana, Rome
I noticed this large abandoned palazzo when I first moved to Rome. I wondered what the history of the building was and why it was falling apart.I found out that it was a city owned property built in 1929. It used to be the headquarters for the Health Administration. Once those offices moved, the building fell into disrepair with some sections abandoned for over sixty years.Palazzo Merulana reopened last month and it's a beauty. Stunning.The renovations took only three years and was a private-public partnership. The space now holds the important collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi. The couple focused on works created in the early 20th century, with the majority between WW 1 and WW 2. The Cerasi family owns a prominent construction company that has worked on projects such as the MAXXI Museum and other public and private works.The Cerasi Foundation would like to see the Palazzo become an important space for visual art, cinema, music, and theatre. They're working closely with several local cultural orgnaizaions. This is quite a gift to the city.A ticket to see the exhibit is four euros. There's a small, charming cafe on the ground and outdoor seating on the patio. The terrace is schedule to open in mid-July and the top floor is reserved for cultural events. 
Here is a short clip about the museum.https://youtu.be/SHw3vc-5fq0 The museum's in a very accessible location. It's about a ten minute walk from the Colosseum with easy access to the Metro and the Tram.121 Via Merulana, 00185, Rome
Ten Years Ago I Moved to Rome, Italy
The two things people ask me all the time when they've learn how long I've lived here are, if I have any regrets or when am I moving back to America.If this were a sabbatical, I would've moved back by now and more importantly, I wouldn't have gone through the hell that is getting a driver's license in Europe (I hear Germany's is beyond difficult).Regarding regrets, I have none. Even during my worst days in Italy, I never got homesick. Of course I miss my family and friends. I do miss the efficiency of America and I know it would be easier to be a business owner and writer there. Rome's going through a horrible downturn but that makes me want to move out of Rome, not the country.As of today I have lived in Rome longer than any other city (after college). I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and moved there from New York City. If I had moved directly to Rome from NYC maybe things would've felt differently. When I arrived in Rome, I was a very bitter and broken person. Hollywood had worn me down. I was numb, which is not a good trait for anyone who works in a creative field.My first trip to Italy was in 2005. I wasn't an Italophile. I just wanted to travel to a new place, see some art, eat some good food. In junior high school and high school I knew I would live overseas one day. Italy was not on my list. That first trip to Rome surprised me and changed my life in so many ways. It felt like home but I wasn't planning on moving anywhere until retirement. My Hollywood friends were skeptical. They said had I traveled to Iowa, I would've had the same reaction. So I returned the following year after getting a new job. Nope, that first visit wasn't a fluke.
During the fall of 2007 I was working on a movie in Toronto. I was one of the executive producers and was on location for almost three months. I was so happy despite the six day shoot, very long hours, and night shoots (killer). As the wrap date approached, I was speaking with my dad. My parents had moved back to St. Martin, after retirement, a few years earlier. He could hear the anxiety in my voice. My dad asked me why I was going back to Los Angeles. I told him I had wonderful bosses. He thought that was great but why wasn't I moving to Italy now? What was I waiting for? I wasn't living in Los Angeles, just existing. New days are not guaranteed to us.I was shook. My fellow first generation Americans will feel me when I say my parents were NOT go follow your bliss kind of folks. They were grounded, intense Caribbean people. I'm pretty sure my mom blames the fact that I'm not married on my lack of an advanced degree (ha). My parents were very hard on us growing up and had high expectations. So for my dad to say go to Italy, that was earth shattering to me. I mean, what would I do in Italy? It's not as if I had an engineering degree and could go work for a Fortune 500 company.Three years to the month of my first visit, I said good-bye to everything I knew and moved to a foreign country. Looking back, it was a completely bonkers move.
It's been tough at times living here and last year, in particular, was difficult on a micro and macro level. I'm not the only person who was glad to say hello to 2018. 2017 was probably one of the most stressful years of my adult life. I got through it (with help from my family and friends) and this year is shaping up to be much better.It may sound melodramatic to say moving to Italy saved me. Moving here pushed me out of my comfort zone and made me wake up. I'm no longer a spectator in my life. I'm aware of time passing and how little of it we have. When you walk past buildings that are over a thousand years old, it put things in perspective. Moving to Italy forced me to stop running, look at the bigger picture, and figure out exactly why I was working in Hollywood. My post-Jumping the Broom disappointments (not with the movie) turned out to be the best thing that every happened to me. I didn't see it at the time. I wouldn't have interned for an interior designer, started my own company, and worked/be working on incredible design/decorating projects had things gone differently. It's through my work in design that I was able to reconnect with my love of storytelling, my creativity, and my passions.I never stopped screenwriting but kept my scripts to myself. One of my mentors/friends, a senior Hollywood film agent, was in town with his wife over the Christmas holidays. He asked me what I was working on. He has always encouraged me to do both, to write and to decorate. I felt strongly I had to pick a lane. He disagreed. Many creative people are multi-faciated. During a yoga retreat last fall, I realized that I was still trying to follow a linear career path and not being open to all possibilities. I was still holding on to some bitterness regarding my Hollywood career that I truly needed to let go. How could I work smarter, not just harder? Who gets to decide what success looks like? I must continue to focus on the craft of screenwriting (and improving) not the things I have no control over.The first project I sold as a screenwriter was a teen movie to an Italian film company within a few months of moving here. However, the majority of my time was spent in my apartment alone writing/working in English with people back in Los Angeles. I was in a giant expat bubble. Four years ago when I opened my company, I started working in Italy and in Italian. I jumped into the deep end of the pool. I couldn't have a situation where expensive custom furniture and/or draperies were made incorrectly because my upholsterer misunderstood my janky Italian. I had to step it up. My get by Italian was fine for a casual conversation not business.The last time I was in Los Angeles I was there for Hollywood meetings and for a interior design project. I was having dinner with a friend before my flight back to Rome. I said that Los Angeles wasn't so bad and that I was looking forward to my next trip. She wondered if I had fallen and hit my head on the pavement. I was serious. I saw another side to the city running around Los Angeles with my client to different showrooms. L.A. traffic is still atrocious though.I have acquired some patience since moving to Rome, a big improvement. I cook more, eat well (said goodbye to no-carb/all diets), and my cost of living is much lower. I'm healthier, more physically active, and learning new things all the time. I'm fortunate to have incredible friends here who are like family.During my first month in Italy made a comment that I get chills when I see the Pantheon. Someone replied it was only because everything was new to me. I know that's not true. Ten years on I still get chills when I walk past the Pantheon. I don't take that for granted.
Taking My Holiday Salutations To The Next Level With Paperless Post
I always sent holiday cards when I lived in the States. Growing up it was a big deal as my parents had a very long list. They would also enclose handwritten letters to our family in the Caribbean. I loved sending and receiving cards. This was a tradition I hoped to continue once I moved to Italy.I was so naive back then. So naive!I heard that the Italian postal system was not the most efficient. However, I was surprised to receive Christmas cards in March, April, etc. or not at all. I mailed my cards in November just in case. It didn't matter, half my cards would show up long after the holidays were over.Then there's the cost. It's two euros/two dollars and thirty-five cents for a single stamp to the United States or to the Caribbean. It was annoying spending money on cards that did not arrive on time or were lost.A lot of my friends in Hollywood use for invitations, announcements, and cards. I've personally never used the brand but adored what I had received. I say this as a person who's a hardcore stationary fan. When Anagram Interactive asked me if I would be interested in using their client's website, I was excited to try it out for myself.Paperless Post's website is very easy to use. Hello, nobody has time to decipher websites that are more complicated than filling out a tax return. There's a wide variety of cards to choose from. Some of the cards are free and cards can be customized for a small additional cost. Paperless Post has collaborated with several designers (including some of my favorites) as well as having an in-house design team.With so many options you'd think it would be overwhelming to make a decision. Nope, there are filters to help you narrow your selection by color, designer, card shape, greetings, etc. Below are some of my picks for the cocktail party I'm not having thanks to a leak in my apartment (long story).
Here are some of my picks for holiday cards:
You also have the option of adding your own photo, or photos, to a card:
Paperless Post started selling both digital and paper versions in 2012 after receiving many requests from their customers. Brilliant idea, especially for those customers who are sending wedding invitations. They may have relatives or family friends who prefer paper invites.It's clear that the young founders of Paperless Post have put a great deal of thought into the design of the cards and the site in general. They've combined beauty and function. Very impressed.Note: I've been given this product to review in collaboration with Anagram Interactive. All opinions remain my own and I was in no way influenced by Anagram Interactive or Paperless Post.
Life in Rome - Mini-break at Le Méridien Visconti Hotel
One of my friends, who owns a boutique travel agency in Italy, told me that finding four star hotels in Rome is difficult. She said there are great options at the five-star high-end level and at the economical end but there are too many four-stars that are really a three- star at best.Enter Le Méridien. The Starwood Group recently added the Visconti Hotel to its portfolio. The hotel officially reopened this June after a twenty million dollar renovation.I had the opportunity to stay at the hotel for two nights. Before my stay I read reviews online because I'm anal. The reviews were very good except for two things, the air conditioning and the WiFi.Given my stay was happening during one of the worst heatwaves in history and I had several work deadlines, I was concerned.They must have fixed these issues as I'm happy to report I had no problems. In fact the A/C was so strong I had to turn it off. My fellow Americans, you know that NEVER happens in Italy.The hotel is located in Prati. It's a few minutes walk from Piazza Cavour and in the other direction (a slightly longer walk), Piazza del Popolo. I think it's a perfect location. You're near the Historic Center but not smack in the middle of it and the prices reflect this. The area is centrally located as Piazza Cavour is a major bus hub. For those who like to walk, you can cross the river and be in the heart of the Historic Center in ten minutes.The roof terrace is fantastic. Sometimes there are annoying loud seagulls who like to wait for people to leave and then dive in for the food. The waiters are on top of it though. Seagulls 0.
Service was great. Granted some of the employees at the hotel have seen me a few times but that wasn't the case with the check-in. I thought they were friendly. There was a small line when I arrived but it moved quickly.Location, price, design, of course all these things matter but when I stay in a hotel there are two things that are extremely important to me. Cleanliness. I cannot stand clutter and dirty bathrooms or kitchens freak me out. I don't want to step into a hotel bathroom and see hair in the drain. Just typing that made me feel queasy. The other thing is the bed. It must be comfortable.My room was spotless and the bed was excellent. The toiletries are Malin & Goetz. I was so geeked out to see them because no retailer in Rome sells these products. I checked the website and there is a store in Milan that carries them. I muust remember this important information for my next trip.
The interior design has mid-century touches that also speak to the hotel's location in the Eternal City. The head designer was Harry Gregory of the firm, ara Design International. They wanted to create something timeless.I adore the pared down use of marble, a material synonymous with Italy and Rome. I think too much marble can make an interior feel cold. At the Le Méridien it's warm and dramatic.The neutrals of grey, black, and white, with splashes of color, are relaxing and chic. The Longitude 12 Bar and Bistrot is a great place for a coffee during the day and for cocktails at night. The Bistrot also has a delicious lunch and dinner menu and starts serving wine around noon.In the Bistrot there's a communal table that has outlets for your laptop and phone adapters.
Downstairs, there was a wide selection for breakfast, including American bacon. I repeat, there was American bacon.
The hotel has an eclectic art collection, from abstract to figurative pieces, created with different materials. These artworks are from the private collection of the Toti family. Their collection focuses on Italian artists from the 1980s. When people think of Rome they often focus on classical art. It's wonderful to see some contemporaries pieces as well.
The gym is small but well-equipped with Technogym equipment. Did you know Technogym was an Italian company? I saw this brand in high-end gyms in New York City and Los Angeles and had no idea until I moved to Italy. Mind blown.I stayed at the hotel in early August but have been stopping by since April. This is not official market research but it seems to me that the hotel is very popular with couples, families, business travelers, and friends traveling together. I didn't see too many solo vacation travelers but I've always felt welcomed thanks to the friendly service.Photos: Me and my iPhone. Disclaimer: I was a guest of the hotel. However, opinions and thoughts are my own.
Life in Rome - Centrale Montemartini Museum, an Ancient and Modern Mix
This museum is not in the Historic Center but located in the dynamic and funky Ostiense neighborhood. It has been on my list for years and I finally visited it recently with my friend, Marta. We loved it.I saw a spread in American Vogue that had used the museum as a backdrop, so I thought I had an idea of what to expect.I was wrong. The museum is located inside a former power plant that was built in 1912. The plant closed during the early '60s. In 1997 the city used the abandoned space to temporarily house works from the Capitoline Museums, which were under renovation. Thankfully, the Cultural Minister had the idea to permanently convert the structure into a museum. Many of the pieces in the museum were excavated during the late 1900's and the 1930's.I found out after we left that I have personal connected to the museum. The Vignacce Marsyas piece was excavated during a 2009 dig in Villa delle Vignacce directed by my friend, Dr. Darius Arya. It's believed to have been the work of artisans from the early 2nd century. Thanks for the scoop, Erica!The space alone is worth a trip and the artwork inside is very interesting as well. I think this museum would appeal to young children too, especially if they’re into big machines.The museum was practically empty the afternoon we were there. We saw two artists sketching the mosaic floors and there was a small film crew setting up a shoot as we left. That’s it. Rome residents get a discounted ticket, so bring your I.D.It’s close to the one of the best pasty shops in Rome, Andreotti, and not far from a large EATALY. There’s excellent street art in the area. If you’re looking for something off the beaten path, this is museum is perfect. I've read some reviews from tourists who say the area is "sketchy." Perhaps this is the reason the museum is underrated? It's a shame as I think it's a good idea to get away from the crowds sometimes.
Via Ostiense 106Tel. +39 06 39967800Website www.centralemontemartini.orgOpen Tuesday to Sunday 9:00-19:00. Closed Mondays and some public holidays.Cash only.
My Tamu's Cafe Interview
Last summer I was interviewed by the lovely Tamu McPherson owner/creator of All The Pretty Birds.Those who follow fashion know what a big deal Ms. McPherson is in the industry. She's a smart, dynamic, woman with a strong style POV. Tamu is also kind, down to earth, and hilarious.When she said she wanted to interview me, I'll be honest, I had a minor panic attack. I DO NOT like being in front of the camera. I had to do an interview for the behind the scenes extras for our film JUMPING THE BROOM's DVD. I believe I watched it once after the studio sent me a copy of the film.Also, it was an extremely hot day in Milan and my monthly friend had arrived. Grrrrrr. I felt like a Weeble. I thought we were tapping at her house which had AC. Nope, we were also going to walk around Milan.
Despite the Caribbean blood that courses through my veins, I'm not a fan of hot weather. I'd say mid/high 70's (F) is my jam. It's in the mid 90s in Rome now and the sun here is on another level. Seriously.My dress had long sleeves but thanks to Tamu's expert sleeve rolling, I was cool as a cucumber. I bought the La Double J dress to celebrate a new project. Little did I know that my biggest client would be leaving Rome (thanks Trump...literally). No regrets though. Last Thursday evening I wore to the dress to events at Chez Dede and the reopening at Le Méridien. People kept asking me where I got it. It's the perfect dress for a dinner date too. Wait, I don't have any of those coming up. Never mind. Back to the subject at hand, the interview.Tamu broke it up into two parts. In Part I, it seems like I did ALL the talking. Tamu, for time, edited out her questions. In Part II we hear more from Tamu. There are Italian subtitles. We talked about working in Italy and what it's like to be a WOC living here, among other things.I move my hands around a lot. I take after my father's side of the family. They're very expressive.PART IPART III have to thank our glam squad. Just kidding. We didn't have one. Tamu and I did our own makeup.Grazie mille, Tamu!
How pretty are these arrangements from Frida's Flowers?
Life in Rome - Ercoli 1928 Parioli
I have lived in Parioli for a year now and love it. When I told people I was moving from the Historic Center to Parioli, everyone had an opinion (mostly negative)."It's so boring," was one of the main criticisms I heard regarding Parioli. Granted, it's not as exciting as living around the corner from the Drunken Ship but that's okay.There are plenty of great places in this neighborhood to get your aperitivi on and the prices are much lower than the Center. That said, it is a more residential area. There are rarely any tourists and while there are quite a few American and British expats living in Parioli, I seem to bump into them only at the DOC or Carrefour supermarkets.The latest addition to the 'hood is Ercoli 1928 Parioli and I am here for it. I met a friend for an aperitivo during the holidays. The first person I saw when we walked in was Federico Tomasselli, the bar manager and one of the best bartenders in Rome. What a very pleasant surprise! He used to be at Barnum on Via del Pellegrino. I lived on Pellegrino and spent a lot of time at Barnum because of Federico and Patrick (Patrick is now at Caffe Propaganda).My friend and I sat at the bar and loved it. The bar's specialty is Vermouth. My friend said their drink was outstanding. If you don't drink Vermouth, no worries. Ercoli's wine list is deep and they have a solid cocktails list too.I returned with another friend the other week and this time we sat in the front because the bar was still setting up.We ordered glasses of wine and the Italian cheese plate. Outstanding.The service was great and everyone was friendly. Trust me, this is not the norm in Rome where service can range from indifference to outright hostility. Ha.My friend picked up some takeout for her husband. I need to ask her how the meatballs were. The cheese selection is fantastic and will be problematic. I haven't eaten lunch or dinner here yet but have heard very positive reviews about chef Andrea di Raimo's dishes.
There are people don't care how a place looks as long as the drinks are great. I'm not one of those people. For food, it's a different story. There are wonderful restaurants that don't have much of a décor but it's okay because the food is on point. However, when it come to aperitivi/cocktails, atmosphere is also very important to me.
Ercoli Parioli knocks it out of the park. The space is divided into three areas. There's a restaurant, a deli, and the bar/cantina.The architect is Roberto Liorni, who's responsible for several of my favorite restaurant spaces including, Pastificio San Lorenzo a Roma, Rosti, and 'Gusto. The latter opened in 1998 and other restaurants are still "referencing" it. Liorni was also the architect for the film company Cattleya's headquarters. All these places have their own vibe but with his unmistakable DNA, contemporary, chic, yet comfortable.I adore the interior design at Ercoli. It's not trying to be the Roman version of a space in Soho or on Abbot Kinney. It fits the neighborhood and doesn't look like every single restaurant that has opened recently. I love the plaid...an unexpected touch.
I finished the cheese I bought. I'm trying to avoid Ercoli this week. I don't think I will be successful.
Life in Rome - The Artemisia Gentileschi Exhibit
Buon Anno!Man, am I happy to see 2017. I'm really looking forward to this year, despite all the craziness in the world. I have no control over these many complicated political and social issues but I can control how I react to them.There's a lot of ugliness and hatred in this world. I'm going to focus on the beauty and love. I know that sounds very Pollyanna. However, I strongly believe that those of us who work in creative fields and/or appreciate creative endeavors need to push back. Dostoyevsky wrote, "Beauty will save the world." I agree.If you're in Rome or plan to visit before May 7th, I highly recommend the “Artemisia Gentileschi and Her Time,” exhibit at the Museum of Rome in Palazzo Braschi. It's outstanding.Much has been written about the struggles of Gentileschi (1593-1653). This exhibit doesn't downplay them but focuses on her art and how the times influenced it. There are over one hundred paintings. Most are by Gentileschi with a few from her contemporaries.Gentileschi was the daughter of the painter Orazio and was heavily influenced by Caravaggio. She was the first woman to be admitted to the prestigious Accademia del Arte di Disegno in Florence.The population in Rome was two-thirds male when Gentileschi was growing up. It was very dangerous for a woman to be even be outside. Her mother died when she was twelve and she was raped by the painter her father hired to tutor her when she was seventeen. Her father had to hire a tutor because at the time women were denied access to the art academies. During the humiliating trial, Gentileschi was tortured and her family's reputation questioned. Her accuser (who had raped his wife, his sister-in-law, and tried to steal paintings from Orazio) was sentenced to a year in jail. His verdict was annulled.Gentileschi rejected the stereotypical female roles of the Early Baroque era and painted women who were powerful, mythical.The exhibit is categorized by city. You can see the influence living in Rome, Florence, Venice, London, and Naples (where she died, perhaps from the Plague) had on Gentileschi's work. After her death, Gentileschi's work was often attributed to her father or other artists.The exhibit is well organized (I know. Shocking). There are informative introductions (in Italian and English) to each period of her work.I saw her most famous work, Judith Slaying Holofernes, at the Ufizzi when I visited Florence a few years before I moved to Italy. She painted two versions and the other one is in Naples at Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte. 
There many paintings of this biblical story (including one by Caravaggio himself). It's fascinating to compare her interpretation to that of her male peers.I don't know if it was the setting (a smaller room, less chaotic that the Ufizzi), post USA election stress, or what, but this time the painting unnerved me. I didn't want to look at it but I couldn't turn away. There was a woman next to me tearing up. It's truly a powerful, visceral, beautiful, work of art. My god the colors. The physicality. Gentileschi painted herself as Judith and her accuser as Holofernes. I didn't know the details of her trial then but even those who have no knowledge of Gentileschi's backstory, can see and feel the unadulterated rage.Moving on from that uplifting note, Palazzo Braschi is a striking venue located in Piazza Navona. During the weekends there was quite a line. It might be less crowded now that the exhibit has been running for a few weeks. Museum of Rome, Palazzo BraschiUntil May 7th, 2017Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 7pm
Guest Post - Studying Abroad in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,This is the last post from our intern, Ariella. I asked her to write about her overall experience studying in Rome. It was a pleasure to work with Ariella and we wish her the best as she continues her studies at Cornell University.I have spent the last four and a half months exploring Rome. I've immersed myself in a new culture, started to learn a new language, admired the art and architecture of this amazing city that continues to create history, and meandered through its confusing yet welcoming streets.The illusions and expectations of studying and living abroad in Rome were surpassed by the realities of my temporary new home. The only real challenge seemed to be the difference in the food markets, which I quickly understood. How fun and interesting to be able to select and purchase food that looked real and smelled as it should. The shadows of dust and dirt reminded me of where the food actually came from, as opposed to very manicured and polished plastic packages of foods that all looked the same and had no aroma.Stopping at every cafe along the way as I discovered my neighborhood and others I explored, I found my comfort zone. While homesick for family and friends for a short first week, I'm now faced with the fear of returning as I know I will long for the place I will be leaving behind. I suppose it's good to leave with the feeling of wanting to return as my mission feels unfinished. I fantasize about returning for an extended period of time and can even imagine living here in the future.Rome has surpassed my expectations and has given me much to think about. I have enjoyed the people, the culture and lifestyle, and the way one moves through this city. It has been so interesting to see how such an old city with all its monuments and history has been able to have continuity despite the politics and introduction of globalization. This is evident by all the current problems of immigration, unemployment, housing, circulation etc. It's obvious that to preserve and yet become a place where the locals and visitors can enjoy this eternal city, introducing and maintaining infrastructure in the existing urban fabric has been quite a challenge.It has been a privilege to live and learn in this setting with Rome’s varied colors as they age and as the sun rises and sets through the changing seasons, giving us different perspectives of an everlasting place.
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Contemporary Art in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from Ariella:Over the past few months I have explored art in Rome from a historical point of view, as well as its current and future purpose. While Rome is known for masterpieces by some of the world's greatest artists such as Michaelangelo, Caravaggio, and many others; the city has a vibrant contemporary art culture as well.Art and architecture in Rome is always present. We travel though it everyday, sit in its' spaces, it creates views and vistas and reminds us of the past while providing the setting for the future.Rome functions like a gallery. We circulated much in the same way we travel through a space designed for art. The city has made a concerted effort to integrate contemporary art and modern life with the construction of new museums. These spaces house newer collections and also facilitate the experience of promoting the collaboration between art, architecture, and everyday life.The challenge of the newer buildings and space is not to interfere or interrupt "historic" Rome but rather to blend in. These new spaces have attracted many visitors and artists to the city. Artists come to Rome from all over the world seeking inspiration while many born and raised in Rome have also flourished as artists.Every week for the past few months, I have visited a new contemporary art museum, gallery, studio, or installation and I've been able to learn from the historical cultural wealth of the Rome as well as from the current vibrant scene.My past impressions of contemporary art were of paintings and pieces that were difficult to relate to, very conceptual. Contemporary art is always evolving and now quite a few artists have returned to figurative painting/works.The collaboration reflected in exhibits, events, and installations have shaped the contemporary art world in Rome.I asked Ariella for a list of some of her favorite contemporary art museums and galleries.Museums:MACROMAXXI 
Galleries:Anna Marra ContemporaneaT293Galleria VarsiGalleria Valentina BonomoI'm adding one of my favorites to her list, Galleria Lorcan O'Neill. Ariella mentioned two other spaces. They're not galleries or museums but display contemporary art.MOMA Hostel - a hostel run by artists.MAAM - this space has living quarters for homeless families. The families live with the art. When Ariella went to visit, one of the pieces had a dent in it because the children used it as a soccer/football goal post. I went to a street art exhibit there and thought it was one of the most interesting venues for art in Rome.