Rome Report – What’s In Season At The Farmers Market?
Buongiorno!
It’s good to be home. I do miss my family, the beaches, and the warm baguettes, of course but three months is a long time to be away.
One thing I love most about living in Italy is grocery shopping. Yes, that’s correct. When I lived in Los Angeles, I had business lunches and dinners almost every weekday (and some weekends). When I did cook, I would think about what I wanted to make and then go to the Gelson’s in my neighborhood or to Bristol Farms and buy what I needed.
I was a big fan of the Santa Monica Farmers’ market and maybe one or two Saturdays a month I would hop on The 10 and pay $30 for three green peppers. The produce was outstanding but very expensive. The market was open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.
When I moved to Rome and found the Trionfale Market I couldn’t get over the quality of the ingredients (Santa Monica level) and how reasonably priced it was. One third to half of what I was paying in Campo dei Fiori’s market. I do have excellent supermarkets in my neighborhood but I buy all my produce and occasionally meat and fish at the market. My meat consumption plummeted once I move to Italy. I eat more grains and vegetables now, it’s easier here. I don’t miss the meat and when I do buy it, I know where it’s coming from. Meat is definitely more expensive here than in the States. It’s a once a week thing or maybe once every other week.
I had to completely rethink how I cook and shop for food after I moved here. One day I wanted to make a broccoli frittata. I cannot tell you why I was fixated on that dish that weekend but I wrote out my little list and off to the market I went.
I got to Trionfale and there was no broccoli to be found. It wasn’t in season. I was thrown! One vendor told me I could probably buy some at a supermarket but he warned me that it wouldn’t taste that great. Now, I have a better sense of what’s in season. I do cook “international” foods as well but even then; I try to keep it seasonal. I know my palate has changed since I've moved to Rome. For example, I used to eat tomatoes all the time that had no flavor. I spent my formative years in New Jersey. I know good tomatoes. My dad used to grow them in our vegetable garden yet, there I was buying tomatoes that tasted like cardboard. Never again! Even the out of season supermarket tomatoes here tastes better.
I’ve been gone a while so I was very curious to see what currently was in season. I went to the Mercato Flamino II.
Look at these beauties!
Puntarelle found only during the winter. The salad, made with garlic and anchovies, is very Roman (and very good).
This neighborhood is east of mine. It’s a bit of a walk but not as far as Trionfale. I usually go to Trionfale if I need to see my butcher. There’s a great butcher closer to me but we call them Diamonds.
These markets are open six days a week Monday – Saturday. There are two small ones very close to my house or I can go to the bigger ones in Trieste, Prati, or near Termini.
The market by Circo Massimo (open on weekends) is outstanding. That market is local. Farmers and food from this region only.
Buon weekend a tutti!
Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun
The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.
Michelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point. However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes. We took it.It was great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town. The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day. It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday. Our day trip was the perfect time to go. It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.
Montepuclciano has a population of about 14,000. It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.
As you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town. Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square. The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511. The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.
We ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano. We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria. The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee. Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do. These views are worth the price
I must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio. The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - Day Trip to Spoleto
Ciao Bloggisti,Friends of mine recently bought a weekend place in Spoleto and invited me up for a day. It's about forty miles south east of Perugia.It was my first trip to Spoleto and I highly recommend a visit. The Historic Center is very charming with incredible views. I took a lot of photos. Below are a few.Ponte delle Torri - a 13th century aqueduct.One of the highlights for me. Next time I will bring a pair of sneakers or hiking shoes so I could walk further up the trail.
The Duomo - Santa Maria Assunta
More pictures of the Historic Center.
Basilica di Santa Gregorio Maggiore - consecrated in 1146.
Note: This is not a politics blog but the US election last week was not normal.The President Elect would like to commute to the White House, staying mostly in Trump Tower. I was not aware that being President of the most powerful country on the planet was a part-time gig. This would create a major logistical nightmare for the Secret Service and the NYPD. It would also be a headache for residents of the building and the surrounding area as blocks of a major street (5th Avenue) would have to be shut down.There's a silver lining. Trump may not have time or the desire to redecorate the White House. I was thinking of writing a separate post about this space:
SpoletoPhotos: Me and my iPhone Trump Living Room: iDesignArch
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Torino
The floor of the elevator was made of glass and had striking views of the entire building. However, the ride up was not the best experience for those of us with a fear of heights.Looking back, I feel I did not spend enough time in the museum as it's something that could possibly take an entire day. The next day we walked around the city admiring the architecture, walking in and out of churches and buildings. At one point we realized there was a kind of 'exhibition' in the city. Contemporary artists had pieces displayed throughout the city and there was a map of all of the pieces. We grabbed a map and started the trail. This trail took us to some beautiful piazzas and courtyards. One of the pieces was a large cube with a triangular pyramid on top which matched the design of the window almost exactly except it was enlarged. The cafes in Torino were also incredibly beautiful. It was obvious that they were built and designed long ago. The way the aesthetics have been maintained make them unique to Torino, similar to much of the architecture we saw.
Photos by Ariella.
I'm Going to Check Myself Before I Wreck Myself - Summer 2016
Ciao Blogglisti,How are you doing?I wrote a post few months ago about being in a major funk after my trip to Milan. While Rome and I never got into fisticuffs, the situation was critical.Late last week, I stopped by a vendor I haven't seen since moving out of the Center. She told me that my Italian had really improved. I thought about her comment. I was constantly beating myself up for not being fluent, instead of remembering that I'm getting better. I seem to be focusing on the negative a lot lately.Yesterday was the first day of summer. I am determined not to spend yet another season salty with city I live in. I'm not the biggest kumbaya person. You will not find me on the top of Gianicolo Hill doing this:[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R462Ro5fqU?rel=0&w=420&h=315]I do know that walking around, as the youngins would say, with a stank attitude is not going to make things better. I will try to see this city with fresh eyes, be more social, and maybe cut back on political news.
Life in Rome - My Post Milan Funk
I've been in a weird mood since returning from Milan the other week.I'm crashing from the Salone del Mobile high, Prince is dead, and I have a cold. I rarely get sick but when I do it seems as if my colds have a need to make up for lost time or something.When I went to the Salone two years ago this didn't happen. Something has changed in Rome and it's not for the better. I'm not the only one who feels this way. These articles, yesterday's New York Times and a piece my friend Michelle wrote for US and News Report in February, sum things up pretty well. Maybe I have cabin fever. Hopefully, tomorrow I will feel better and can leave my house!I have been to the Salone three times. The first time I stayed in a hotel near the Convention Center. The second time I rented an apartment in the city near the canals. Third time's a charm.Hotel prices are insane during the Salone (if you can find one). The Salone is larger than Fashion week and seventy percent of the people attending are visiting from other countries. The entire city takes part. If you're planning to attend, make reservations early. Many companies and vendors have blocked out rooms years in advance.I returned to the Principe after my great experience there in September. I still don't understand how the hotel was filled to capacity, yet I rarely saw any other guests on my floor. So quiet. The service at this hotel is impeccable despite its size. Plus, they have American bacon during breakfast.Renting an apartment while traveling on vacation is an excellent option but I've learned my lesson. When I'm working, a hotel is a better choice for me. Much better.I was running around Milan like a chicken with my head cut off and it was wonderful to return to a clean room, to have concierge service, a gym, a convenient place to have meetings, etc. Of course the cost was higher than the apartment I rented two years ago but my trip was more productive.And what a great trip...four intense days of meetings and visiting showrooms. I wish I had more time.I posted a few photos on Instagram and below are additional pictures from some of the highlights. I can't upload all the highlights as I forgot to take photos at the Ethimo party, and quite a few showrooms.
Self-Promotion - How do it Without Alienating Everyone?
Yes, the title is a question not a statement. This is a road my entrepreneur/freelancing friends and I are trying to navigate.I was thinking about this while walking home after meeting up with some girlfriends.
They are a dynamic group of women.However, one thing I have noticed time and time again (especially when I worked in Hollywood) is that so many of my female friends tend to downplay their success. They say they're lucky or get embarrassed when talking about their accomplishments. Meanwhile, my male friends and colleagues would proudly discuss their success and many would take credit for things they didn't even do.Perhaps there is a fine line between bragging and just stating the facts. What is it?Is being too humble holding us back? I'm not saying we need to go to a Trumpian level of bloviating but the constant self-deprecating, aww shucks thing needs to stop.Even my friends who were born with a sliver platter, hustle. True, their family's influence helped them get in the door but they stay in the room because they're great at what they do. Luck is only a small part of their success.Recently, the very talented Felicia Sullivan asked me to be part of a series she's writing on successful female entrepreneurs. At first, I wondered why would she want to interview me. My friend Erica knocked some sense into me and I did the interview. Then she told me I had to Tweet about it a few times over the next few months. I haven't. Why not?The fact that there's a popular hastag called #humblebrag speaks volumes. Why be passive aggressive? A agent friend in Hollywood told me that there's nothing wrong with with tooting your own horn as long as you also toot the horn of others. Nobody wants to see or read a feed that is me, me, me, 24/7.When I think about the self-promotion that turns me off, it's because the person only talks about themselves. Always.So I say go ahead and tell the world about the great things you're doing. How will people know unless you have a publicist? Maybe some people won't think these things are that great, special, or interesting. That's okay. It's something you're proud of.I'm going to work on my own self-deprecating responses. I now know I won't succeed if I only dwell on negative things or what I haven't accomplished yet in my career. As 2015 draws to a close, I am thinking long and hard regarding how speak about my work and my business.And yes, I'm going to retweet this interview:When I first visited Rome in 2008, Arlene took me to the most incredible Italian restaurant–one I would never have found on a map. We were introduced by a woman who was interested in adapting my memoir for film. Although the project fell through, I’m thankful for having met Arlene and for our long-distance friendship since, punctuated by my occasional visits to Italy.I admire Arlene deeply, embarrassingly so. She left a job, country, and life in pursuit of something other. She wasn’t tethered to age as a means of trapping one in one’s vocation, rather she set out to find her place in the world. Up until a few months ago she was a successful writer/producer and now tell stories in another form: interiors. I love women with verve, women who take risks, break ranks, and live without apology. Arlene is all of these things, but in the end she’s a truth-teller. I only hope to be as successful as I move through my acts. Let her story inspire you. –FSWhen I first met you, you’d recently emigrated to Rome from the U.S. Truth be told, I admired you, how brave you were to leave a successful career behind for something other. This was a time before we’d read articles about expats and second acts. Your career has spanned politics, film and entertainment—but tell us how you returned to your first love: decorating. Why did you leave producing behind?Arlene Gibbs: What timing. Until two months ago, I had two careers going on, screenwriter/producer, and decorator.When we first met, I was writing full-time and developing a few projects as a producer. Everyone told me it would be impossible to be a screenwriter/producer based in Rome (especially without a trust fund). Even after our movie Jumping The Broom was released, and importantly was a hit, I heard the same thing. Nothing changed. Nobody cared. It was a “niche” film. When I pointed out to a producer friend that there were plenty of successful British screenwriters who worked in Hollywood but lived in London, I was told, “Yes, but they are British, white, and male.”To your last question, it took me forever to see the light. Earlier this summer, one of my dear friends, who lives in Rome, said that the universe was screaming at me and I was ignoring the signs. This friend is usually not that crunchy. I needed to heed her advice.Then I read this quote from JJ Martin, an American fashion and design journalist who lives in Milan, and everything clicked.
The best advice I’ve ever received was to look at everything that comes your way as an opportunity. Do not underestimate the power of chance and fate. Do what you love, what opens you up, not what closes you down, and makes you act like an asshole. Be responsible, be loving, be caring. That’s what I advise to anyone starting out. If you truly love fashion, it will come to you.
She’s talking about fashion but it could be applied to any creative endeavor. I wasn’t an asshole when I worked in Hollywood, my former assistants still speak to me, but I was not myself. I became a very bitter person.I was recently hired for a decorating project in Los Angeles. It was my first trip back since making my big decision. It was a great experience. I returned to Rome feeling positive instead of depressed.The rest of the interview is HERE.Thanks again, Felicia!
Design Inspiration - Bar Luce - Prada Fondazione, Milan
Hold up, how is it October already? One of my friends in the States was complaining about seeing Thanksgiving decorations already. I guess we should be grateful they weren't for Valentine's Day 2016.I have started my apartment search. It's, well, a trip. I don't know what some of these landlords are thinking. The bathroom situation is not good.I'm having a hard time finding smaller apartments that are unfurnished. Most of the apartments in the neighborhoods I'm focusing on were built for families. I don't need a huge apartment and as a small business owner, it wouldn't be financially smart to take on that kind of monthly expense.I hope to find something this month. We'll see.I took a quick business trip to Milan last month. I got completely lost searching for a to-the-trade vintage furniture store. Once i realized I was very close to the new Prada Fondazione, I had to check out Bar Luce.Bar Luce was designed by film director Wes Anderson. Anderson has directed several short films for the fashion house.It's 1950/1960's Milanese style with a touch of Anderson's quirkiness. Opened everyday from 9:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m., Bar Luce is the prefect spot to have coffee or aperitivi.There are so many wonderful design details in this space. I really need to return and spend a afternoon there, reading and writing.ADORE these lights. If I find an apartment with an ingresso/foyer that has overhead lighting, I'd love a fixture like this.
The dark wood helps anchor all the pastels. Without it, perhaps the décor would be too twee. Pink and green are fabulous together. Back in college I used to have a rugby shirt with those colors. One day while walking across the quad, an upperclassman asked me if I were an AKA. She said, "you do wear a lot of pink and green."I did. Not because I belonged to that sorority but because I wore a lot of preppy clothes in the 80s.
I didn't have a chance to see what tunes were on the jukebox.
One of my favorite Wes Anderson films. I must buy the soundtrack.
I wonder what flavor the pink cake is. So pretty.
Life in Rome - Chez Dédé Opening Party
A few years ago I wrote about how much I adore the boutique accessories label founded by Andrea Ferolla and Daria Rein, Chez Dédé.There has been a lot of retail space turnover in our neighborhood. Antique stores, artisans, etc., are shutting down and Subway fast food restaurants, and other weird sandwich shops are taking over. There have been some great additions, like the Suppli spot but for every one of those there are four or five places that leave locals scratching their heads.Via Monserrato is one of the prettiest streets in Rome. When I saw the large for rent sign where Ilaria MIani's showroom used to be, I became very nervous. What kind of janky business would set up shop on this street?Then I saw this:
YAS!The store had its opening last week. Erica and I walked over and bumped into a bunch of our neighbors. One of our favorite bartenders, Fabrizio from Pierluigi, made the Kir Royales.Unfortunately, for me, the store is stunning. I should just leave my wallet there and let them take my money. All of it.Erica completely fan-girled LInda Rodin. I don't blame her. Ms. Rodin is a style icon for a reason. She was so gracious and didn't give us the side-eye for geeking out.I think I need to treat myself to a nice Grand Sac bag for my birthday. It's a big one (no, I'm not going to say which birthday it is as I still work in Hollywood). I haven't decided which bag yet. The island of Salina is one of my favorite places in the world but I also love the colors/style of the Portofino, Kenya, and Dubai bags. I haven't been to any of those places, so I think I should go with the Salina bag.Below are photos from the opening. Grazie mille, Daria for the invite!EDIT:Okay, I wrote this yesterday with the plan to publish today. I like to proof read before publishing yet, some typos still make it through. Grrrr.On Saturday my friend Courtney called me and said she had to speak with me urgently on Sunday. I asked what was wrong. Why couldn't she tell me over the phone? I was working all day on Sunday but said I would meet her in the afternoon. Erica wanted me to stop by her daughter's lemonade stand. I said I was on my way to meet Courtney but would stop by. I was worried about Courtney. Erica said she was too and hoped that everything was okay.I show up at Etablli. Courtney sends a SMS saying she's on her way and she asks me to order her a glass of wine. What the heck was going on? Was her news so heavy she needed to have a drink in hand?She walks in and Erica (!) is right behind her. They say, "Happy Birthday" and then this happened:
I had no idea they were planning this! Erica thought I was going to buy the bag before my birthday so she and Courtney went into action over the weekend. My birthday isn't until August 26th.I was/am floored. I am not an easy person to surprise and they totally got me. Well played ladies, well played. I love my bag.
Andrea is a very talented illustrator.
Linda Rodin. Fabulous.
Erica and Linda.
So true.
Photos: Me and my iPhone