Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun

The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.IMG_8234.jpgMichelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point.  However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes.  We took it.It was  great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town.  The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day.  It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday.  Our day trip was the perfect time to go.  It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.IMG_8257.jpgIMG_8246.jpgMontepuclciano  has a population of about 14,000.  It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.IMG_8238.jpgAs you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town.  Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square.  The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511.  The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to  renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.IMG_8302.jpg IMG_8298.jpgWe ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano.   We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria.  The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee.  Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do.  These views are worth the priceIMG_8315.jpgIMG_8328.jpg IMG_8334.jpg IMG_8338.jpg IMG_8335.jpg IMG_8318.jpgI must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio.  The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.IMG_8267.jpgIMG_8261.jpg IMG_8245.jpg IMG_8319.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone

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I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.

I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy.  I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy.  I couldn't wait to leave both times.  The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me.  Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work.  My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage?  I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place.  I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets.  It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch.  He couldn't have cared less.  Our mutual friend, had the same experience.  She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence.  She told me I needed to return to the city.  That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip.  My friends who live in Florence said the same thing.  I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about.  August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.tenorNo, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi).   It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence.  In my defense, I wasn't the only one.  A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell.  She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students.  Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then.  How could it be?  I was there for four days max.  They live there.  They know Florence.  Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time.  I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed.  Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop.  I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno".  He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me.  Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return.  I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains.  Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at  Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto.  Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year.  I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money.   I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy.  These ravioli were light and delicious.   The waiters were lovely.  It was the perfect birthday lunch.IMG_5747.jpgI met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede.  She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company.  I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto.  It's my kind of place.  I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos.  I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards.   Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.51H1thFUtlL._SX414_BO1,204,203,200_.jpgI met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning.  Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence.  Currently, she lives in Florence full-time.  The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago.  We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day.  It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in.  I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.IMG_5717.jpgIMG_5712.jpgIMG_5732.jpgIMG_5723.jpgThis was my first time visiting the church San Spirito.   No pictures are allowed inside.   Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.IMG_5761.jpgGeorgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there.  We did.   The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.IMG_5764.jpgI went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat.  The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy.   I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel.  It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center.  The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.01_irene-restaurant.jpgI took the fast train home.  Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.IMG_5667.jpgIMG_5668.jpgIMG_5754.jpgThere are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence.  Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit.  If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip.  A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met.  I cannot wait to return.IMG_5701.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.     

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Eat, Pray, Move - Tuscany

 I stopped practicing yoga over fifteen years ago after I seriously injured my right wrist.  I was taking "Power Yoga" classes and I don't think I paid enough attention to what was going on with my body.I couldn't focus long enough in class. My mind was always racing, thinking about all the things I had to do or didn't do.  The injury was a convenient excuse to say, "arriverderci" to yoga.I've known Erin for over eleven years.  We met via our former blogs before meeting in person and we moved to Italy at the same time.  Erin was on a sabbatical in Florence for a year or so and then moved back to the States.  She returned frequently and we would always try to see each other.  I remember when she started Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga seven years ago.  She began with one retreat in Tuscany and over the years has added more locations.  In 2014 she left her corporate job and now she holds on average sixteen retreats in nine countries, Italy (multiple locations) France, Spain, Croatia, Iceland, Morocco, Indonesia, India, and Japan.  The latter she added this year.It's very inspiring to see how Erin has built this wonderful life and business from scratch.  She has tapped into something very special.Last month I had the opportunity to see, in person, what Erin's accomplished. I was worried about the yoga.  I had asked her in the past if it would bad form to go to a yoga retreat and pass on doing the yoga (ha).  Erin assured me that all levels (including those with no experience) were welcome and that participation in all activities was optional.It was an incredible experience and I'm already planning my next retreat.  This retreat was yoga and art.  It was held at a country house right on the border of Tuscany and Umbria.  I took the train into Chiusi, where I met the other participants. Julian and Erin picked us up.The house, Siliano Alto, is part of the “Le Coste” Estate (a 1500 acre protected nature and hunting reserve), and dates back to around 1760.  Other sections were added in the 19th and 20th centuries. During the Second World War the house was used as a billet for German soldiers until it suffered a direct hit on the front side from an American bombing raid. After the War, the house was home to the farmers who worked on the estate. Five separate families lived upstairs and cows, horses and pigs were kept in the cantinas below. Julian and his family moved to the property in 2006 and began a two-year restoration project before opening up for art courses.IMG_4077 (1).jpg IMG_4132.jpg IMG_4087 (1).jpg IMG_4098.jpg The location was wonderful with beautiful views and incredible sunsets.  I was told that some wild boars were hanging out by our doors during the first night.  I didn't hear them, which is a good thing.IMG_4292.jpg IMG_4298.jpg I  appreciated this welcome aperitivi.IMG_4096 (1).jpg During the welcome Erin went over the week's schedule was (there was a print out as well).  I couldn't stay the entire week because of a work commitment back in Rome.  There's plenty of free time built into the schedule.  Breakfast and dinners are included, along with some lunches.The food is vegetarian and delicious.  I didn't miss eating meat or fish at all.  If you must get your meat-eating on, it's possible to so during the lunches that are not provided.IMG_4102 (1).jpg IMG_4110 (1).jpg Erin is a certified yoga instructor and the morning classes usually start at 8:00 a.m. and last an hour and fifteen minutes.  I'll be honest, I was struggling to get through our first class.  I kept thinking about how hungry I was, Idris Elba, and work stuff.  I couldn't get it together.  Erin was great, checking our poses.  If there was one movement that was too difficult for some of us in the class, she would suggest an easier one.  The next day my abs were on fire.IMG_4306.jpg The second day I had some fruit before class and made more of an effort to focus.  Anytime I felt my mind starting to race again, I pumped the brakes.  By the time I left the retreat, I was able to make through an entire class without any distractions.The non-yoga part of the retreat was fantastic as well.  We visited the town of Chiusi where Julian, who is an artist and art teacher, gave us an excellent tour.  We had pizza in town with the perfect crust.   We also drove to the small borgo of Panicale and had a fun wine and olive oil tasting.IMG_4139.jpg IMG_4180.jpg IMG_4147.jpg IMG_4221.jpgThe next day was our day trip to Siena.  I visited Siena during my second vacation to Italy.  I had my guide-book and everything but I learned a lot more about the Duomo and the town with Julian.  He went into detail regarding how the Plague impacted the city.  Seven out of ten Sienese died.The Duomo is breathtaking.  What Julian said about the cathedral architects of that era was profound.  The architects were designing buildings that would be finished long after they died.  They knew they would never see them completed.  Very different from these McMansiony times.IMG_4268.jpg IMG_4291.jpgOn my last day we had an art class.  We did several drawing exercises.  Later, during our free time, several of us took advantage of the watercolor paints in the studio.IMG_4316.jpgThat day we also had a pasta making class.  I haven't made pasta from scratch in years.  I need to do it more often.  The pasta was ridiculously good.  All of us had seconds.IMG_4320.jpg IMG_4326.jpg In the afternoon we went to Cortona.  Of course we had to stop by Bramasole.IMG_4339.jpg IMG_4341 (1).jpgI can see why so many of the participants are repeaters.  It's a genius way to travel, especially if you're a solo traveler.  The retreats are small and personal.  Yet, there's plenty of alone time if you need it.Since the retreat I've been trying to practice yoga at least three times a week.  My friends, who are very serious about it, recommended a few beginner videos to me.  It's a great way to start my day (good thing I saw 45's unhinged press conference this morning after yoga).  I say this as someone who is not crunchy.  I still don't understand what the heck is going on with this bulletproof Matcha tea craze.One of Erin's goals when she started Eat, Pray, Yoga, was to find a way to include charitable work.  You can read more about the organizations they collaborate with here.IMG_4198.jpg  

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A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region

The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site.   Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy.   I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.IMG_3158IMG_3160.jpgWe arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro.  Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate.  Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work.  During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.IMG_3136.jpg IMG_3149.jpgOur lunch was excellent.  Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate.  On a design note, it was perfection.  Great service too.IMG_3135.jpg IMG_3129.jpg IMG_3146.jpgWe decide to take a power walk before dinner.   I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests.  I don't know why boars freak me out.  Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive?  I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such.  I know this is not logical.IMG_3189.jpg IMG_3190.jpgDuring dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged.  We had a wonderful time.  The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious.  You never know with communal dining.  I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit.  Tears.  Instead we went old school and played records.  John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl.  I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap.  EW&F is one of my favorite bands.  I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period.  Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F.  This person was also a black American Gen-Xer.  I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo.  It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance.  Paradise.IMG_3257.jpgDuring my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.IMG_3260.jpgWe decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend.  It was delicious, and very pretty.IMG_3325I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time.  I adore this small hill town.IMG_3366.jpg IMG_3357.jpg IMG_3353.jpg IMG_3382.jpgThe first time I was there was during the dead of winter.  This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off.  However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit.  We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town.  The views were just ridiculous.  Hello, is this real life?IMG_3376.jpgThe next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.IMG_3421.jpg IMG_3439.jpg IMG_3441.jpgAnnalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi.  It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see MonteverdiIlaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom.  I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003.   He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.IMG_3496.jpg IMG_3482.jpg IMG_3485.jpg IMG_3499.jpg IMG_3492.jpg IMG_3487.jpgWe ate lunch in the entoeca.  Outstanding.   The service was incredible.  As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.IMG_3461.jpg IMG_3469.jpgThe sun was trying to make an appearance.IMG_3504.jpgMonteverdi is an unique experience.  There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades.  However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo.  Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.IMG_3503.jpgUnfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day.  When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning.  I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.IMG_3433.jpg IMG_3432.jpg IMG_3407.jpgIf some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone           

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Design Inspiration - La Bandita Countryhouse

My apologies for the radio silence.  Work has been bonkers.  One of my clients moved back to the States.  She was a high-ranking diplomat and her term was up.  We needed to organize a major international move for someone who had lived in Rome for quite some time.My trip to La Bandita was the weekend after her move was finished.  The timing was perfect. I was completely wiped out.I've been to the Townhouse and was curious about the Countryhouse after reading about it in design magazines.  When Annalee invited me to join her, she didn't have to ask twice.IMG_3269.jpgWe met at the Chiusi train station and rented a car.  Thankfully, Annalee did most of the driving as the two times I've rented a car in Italy I've received a speeding ticket.  I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and drove pretty much every single day.  I never received a speeding ticket (or any ticket for that matter).  NEVER.  I really don't understand why I got tickets in Sicily and Tuscany given I was trying to keep up with the flow of traffic. Sorry, I digress.I keep hearing Tuscany is over.  Those people are on drugs.  Are there some areas that are packed with tourists?  Yes, but Tuscany is a large region.  There's no reason to write off the entire area.The Val d'Orcia is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been to in Italy.  My next post will be about what we did and where we went.Today, I'm focusing on the interior design.  I've seen my share of "Tuscan" interiors. Too often there are extremes, either super modern, stripping all the character out of these older homes or too traditional, creating a space that reminds you of the Addams Family's house.Owners Ondine Cohane and John Voightmann, with their architects Ernesto Bartolini and Arianna Pieri of DA Studio in Florence, have a created a contemporary space that is warm, airy, and feels Tuscan.  That last quality is so difficult to get right especially in an era of cookie cutter interior design (in part because every city has the same chain stores).  Are there elements of the design that would feel at home in say, Miami or the Caribbean? Absolutely.  The La Bandita team worked closely with local artisans and used natural materials found in the area.  All these pieces came together to create a space that could only be in Tuscany.This article, written by Ondine, is about the how and why John and Ondine opened the Country House.IMG_3293.jpg Annalee and I stayed in The Pigsty Suite.  Yes, this independent apartment (just a few meters from the main house) used to be the pigsty.IMG_3334.jpg My pictures don't do it justice.  It was perfection.  We had our own little patio.  The views from our "backward" were breathtaking.  The bathroom was immaculate.  I have a thing about cleanliness in general and it's taken to another level regarding kitchens and bathrooms.The bathroom was huge and I loved having a shower next to the big picture window.  I felt like I was taking a shower outdoors but without the risk of being attacked by wild boars.  Seriously, these darn boars are no joke.  Annalee and I went jogging before dinner and other guests told us they saw a family of boars right after they passed us on the road.  No grazie.IMG_3336.jpg IMG_3164.jpg The check in desk/reception is in the main quasi-open planned room with the kitchen and dining areas.  There is a lounge/library area with a great selection of books.IMG_3223.jpg IMG_3333.jpg IMG_3243.jpg My personal hotel tastes lean toward simple but sophisticated interiors.  Some might find the bedrooms too minimalist but for me they let the architecture and views shine.  The rooms are relaxing and calm which is what I want in a hotel room.IMG_3304.jpg IMG_3307.jpg I can see how this hotel may not work for a solo traveler or anti-social couples as the dining space is communal.   Bandita Countryhouse would be perfect for a group to rent the entire space.It's truly off the beaten path so I'm glad we arrived during the day.  The unpaved road leading to the property is steep but worth it for the 360 views.IMG_3216.jpg IMG_3292.jpgWhile technically it is a boutique hotel, the vibe at La Bandita Countyhouse is more your friend's very chic country house in Tuscany.  I am here for it.   The hospitality and food were wonderful.  John, Ondine, Dario, Elena, Paola, Marco, and the cat (I didn't catch its name) made us feel at home.I had a great time.  So much so that I'm willing to deal with the drama of driving a car  in Italy again.IMG_3220.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone.La Bandita CountryhousePodere La BanditaPienza (SI) 53026Toscana, ItaliaTel +39–333–404–6704Fax +1–212–202–6222website       

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Life in Rome - My Trip to Pienza, Tuscany

Earlier I wrote about the interior design of La Bandita Townhouse.   Clearly the owners, John and Ondine, have put as much thought into the service as they did into the décor.From the first email to book my room, until the day I left, the service was (as the young folks say) on fleek.  This is something I do not take for granted.  Unfortunately, too many people have no idea what it means to work in the hospitality business. Why they would open or work in a hotel/restaurant/spa, etc. is beyond me.Pienza is a small hilltop town with a population of approximately two thousand people.  It was the birthplace of Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini, who would become Pope Pius II. Piccolomini rebuilt the entire village, starting in 1459, after he became Pope.  He saw it as a lovely Renaissance retreat from the Papal capital.  In 1996 Pienza was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site.It's a perfect base from which to explore this region of Tuscany (with a car).  Montapluciano, Siena, and other towns are close by.  If you're a Pecorino cheese fan, a visit to Pienza is a must.Since I was only staying for two nights, I didn't rent a car and spent most of my time close to the Townhouse.  It was FREEZING.  I'm not exaggerating.  I haven't been that cold since my days at Syracuse University.I was elated to see these fire pits around town.  I love how in this country even a simple and functional thing, like a fire pit, is well designed.  I mean, look at the darn logs.  Did the person who built the fire make sure they were "just so" or what?  Also, as I said before, it was beyond freezing.  Who has time to worry about aesthetics in sub-freezing weather?   If the logs were janky, would the fire builder be called out?I truly appreciate this attention to details.IMG_0237 The views were spectacular.  Sunset.IMG_0221 Sun rising. View as I started my epic walk three and a half-hour walk.IMG_0306 Remember this road from the movie GLADIATOR?  No, I was not entertained. I was a little freaked out because I didn't see a single person for kilometers.  I started to think, "what if a wild boar attacked me? Nobody could hear me scream. Where the heck is the next farm house?"IMG_0319 Seriously, NOBODY was around.IMG_0323 The top of this well, stylish simplicity.IMG_0330 Pieve dei Santi Vito e Modesto Church.  It was built sometime during the 11th and 12th centuries.   Notice the distinctive carvings above the door.  Several of these small country churches were built above Etruscan sites and used some of the same imagery.IMG_0312 I had a fantastic dinner at the hotel, after I defrosted.  The restaurant is open to the pubic (you need reservations).  Chef David and his sous-chef, Jacopo, knocked it out of the park.IMG_0365 Martina pours some Prosecco.IMG_0271 During high season, Pienza is very popular with tour groups.  This charming video about La Bandita and Pienza helps explain why.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rGyeJ1Z030A big Thank You to everyone at La Bandita.  Sometimes it's not so easy to travel alone and they made me feel at home.Photos: Me and my iPhone.   

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Design Inspiration - La Bandita Townhouse - Pienza, Tuscany

I've read about La Bandita, a country house near Pienza and have seen photos of it in various shelter magazines/design articles.A little over a year ago, John Voigtmann and his wife Ondine Cohane opened La Bandita Townhouse converting a former convent in center of Pienza into a 12-room boutique hotel.My friend Gillian and husband stayed there recently.  She told me I had to see it in person.  Gillian knows my taste and said I would love it.She was correct.  I know people are sick and tired of decorators using words like swoon! obsessed! and dying! when describing interiors.  However, let me say, I swooned when I saw my room. I was obsessed with the design of the kitchen and was dying over the views.I've written before about the mix.  It's something you see frequently in French and Italian interiors.  It's not easy to pull off.  Sometimes the space is too modern for the architecture and it feels cold.  Or the design is so faithful to the past, it's dated.Working with Florence based architects, Arianna Pieri and Ernesto Bartolini of DA.Studio, John and Ondine have created a lovely space. In a hotel, all the beauty in the world doesn't mean a thing if the service is awful. It was fantastic and I will write about a post about that and Pienza soon.I absolutely adore this type of décor.  The same architects worked on Monteverdi with interiors by Ilaria Miani.i found out that one of the main resources for La Bandita Townhouse was the store Barthel.  No wonder it spoke to me as we sourced most of the items for the bathrooms in our Tuscany project from Barthel.This was my room, number 12.  I arrived late afternoon.  The amount of light during the day is unreal.  I love that they retained the stone wall.  The view from the tub was sick.  The Ortigia products were a nice touch, as were the free water and soda in the mini-bar.In my next apartment I would like a canopy bed. The colors, the lighting, the bed linens, I really didn't want to leave this room after two days.I have to ask if they have a room with a desk, because La Bandita is a perfect spot for writers.IMG_0209 Tears of happiness when i saw this huge shower stall.  I really need to move.IMG_0206 Gorgeous.  The main hallway is the first thing you see when you walk thru the door. The convent dates from the 1400s.IMG_0337 Again, stone walls.  A lot of natural materials with pops of orange throughout.IMG_0289 This kitchen is everything.  In the States open-plan kitchens are preferred but not in Italy (or the Caribbean).  Notice the overhead window over the bar?  It drops down.  Once you close the door on the left of the bar, you have a closed kitchen that lets in light.   A friend of mine, who lives in a loft in Rome, did something very similar.  It's a brilliant idea.la_Bandita_Townhouse_07-399x400 An old map of Italy in the library/lounge.IMG_0372 I was very excited to see so many classic LPs in different genres. I could've stayed up all night listening to music.  I still have some vinyl and for my next apartment (I know, I know) I will buy a turntable.IMG_0242 You know how I feel about books and magazines.  It was freezing outside.  It was nice to curl up on the sofa and just chill.IMG_0212 John is former music industry executive.  Some of his gold records sit on top of the bookcase.la_Bandita_Townhouse_41-400x400 Aperitivi time!IMG_0246 John has said he and Ondine wanted to create a beautiful, comfortable hotel where people could come to relax and enjoy Tuscany. They have. La Bandita is a special place. I cannot wait to return during warmer weather so I can eat outside on their fantastic terrace.Photos: (except for the one of the kitchen and of the bookcase) me and my iPhone.Click HERE to see more from La Bandita's great photo gallery.

La Bandita Townhouse
Corso Il Rossellino, 111Pienza (SI) 53026Toscana, ItaliaTel +39 0578 749 005info@la-bandita.com

 

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Hello 2015!

One of my friends asked me what my word is for 2015.  Another asked about my resolutions.   I've given both a great deal of thought.What I really need to do in 2015 is stop being a control freak.  I'm driving myself (and my friends) crazy.  While it's a good thing (especially in a detail orientated profession) to be very organized, I need to take it down a notch, okay, several.I'm not sure how I will achieve this goal but at least I have acknowledged this critical situation.So far 2015 is off to a great start.   Yes, I do realize we're only two days in.Happy New Year!IMG_0281

Fireworks outside my window.

Pienza, Tuscany.  La Bandita Townhouse.

  

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The Tuscany Project

Last year I wrote about the vacation home in Tuscany I'm working on with architect Domenico Minchili.Our clients had some photos taken and below are a few of them.First, a before shot of the living room.IMG_1840After.The room is so much lighter.  The new "old" floors make a huge difference as does the paint color.  I was consumed for days regarding which shade of Farrow & Ball white was the best white for the  walls.  We decided to use Skimming Stone.The chairs were custom made by Tondini & Radicchi. So were all the draperies in the house.P1050072One of the bedrooms mid-renovation.IMG_1675After._MG_7917A bathroom before.IMG_1836After._MG_7936Wider shot of the living room.  The sofas, coffee table, and sconces are custom. The studio.This room receives little natural light.  Many people assume that a small dark room must be painted a very light color in order to make it look bigger.  Not true.  It seems counter-intuitive but going darker gives a small room more depth._MG_7828_MG_7879_MG_7876_MG_7884_MG_7888_MG_7892_MG_7905_MG_7924_MG_7933_MG_7941P1050086One of my Italian friends called this décor, "Relaxed Chic."   Another friend said it was "Casual Luxury."  Both work for me.Every bedroom, and its bathroom is unique, yet the entire home is cohesive.The paint is from Farrow & Ball.Most of the new furniture was custom made.  We also sourced pieces from Flamant, Barthel, and small shops in Rome and Tuscany.Our fabric sources were, Dedar, Ralph Lauren Home, Kathryn M. Ireland, and Pierre Frey.If you would like to know the specific colors or more information about the fabric or furniture, please feel free to ask me in the comments section.This property is available for vacation rental.  It's in the heart of the Chianti region surrounded by vineyards.  The views are stupendous.For more information (and some exterior photos), please visit the luxury rental  Abercrombie & Kent website.Photos by: Mario FloresSave

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Weekend Inspiration - Shower - Monteverdi, Tuscany

What a week.Just when you think Italian politics couldn't be more confusing or bizarre, they are.   I have no idea what is going to happen now.  Maybe we'll have new elections.The Pope said good-bye yesterday.  The city is packed with tourists who came to see him for the last time.  Cardinals are flying in for the conclave and there are journalists in town from all over the world.Work-wise, things were hectic. I'm not sure how it's Friday already.Yesterday, Domenico and I drove up to Tuscany to visit the job site and to meet with our client who flew in from Germany.  Normally, we would stay overnight but we decided to make it a day trip and left Rome at 6:30 a.m.It was a very long day.   At one point my brain said, "BASTA!" and refused to cooperate.  It was around the time I was asking the contractor questions in Italian and then translating his answers into English.On the drive back home, all I could think about was taking a long shower, getting in my PJs, and then watching Law and Order SVU reruns on Fox Crime (I have a thing for Detective Stabler).I wish I had a shower like this:A shower at MonteverdiUnfortunately, I do not.The shower in the photo was designed by Ilaria Miani for Monteverdi.   Monteverdi is a group of rental villas and a hotel in the small village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in Tuscany.Stunning.  I hope to check it out sometime later this year.In the meantime, Stabler and I will be relaxing this weekend.Buon Weekend!

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Work In Progress - Country House - Tuscany, Italy

I was recently hired by the very talented architect Domenico Minchilli to work on the interiors for a home in the Chianti region of Tuscany, Italy.Words cannot adequately express how excited I am about this project.Chianti, TuscanyWe have a mid/late Spring deadline.One of the bathrooms post demolition.Early on, I started to pull images for an inspiration board on Pinterest. Some of the images came from books in my library, photos from my travels, or from my favorite websites. Originally, I had over sixty-five images. It was a great visual tool and helped me see the big picture. I kept that version of the board private so I could show Domenico what I was thinking.Once I had a clearer idea of what the client wanted/needed for their home, I put together a mood board in Photoshop for each room. There has to be a separate post about Photoshop... DRAMA.Fabric for sofas and chairs.I had written a much longer post but deleted it. It was way too sappy.However, I will say I'm thrilled to be working with such an incredible group of people and that 2013 is off to a great start.

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I haven't spent that much time in Tuscany.  I've been to Florence, Siena, and the tiny town of Terriciola which isn't too far from Pisa.I was going to stay in Rome for my birthday.  However, the horrendous heat, the fact that 99 percent of my friends were gone for Ferragosto, and dealing with screaming drunk American college students and loud high school Italian teenagers on my street pushed me over the edge.  I booked a trip out of town.My friend Michelle, who lives in Milan, told me about Versilia.  Her husband happened to be in the area that weekend. He was dropping off their young son who was going to stay at his great aunt's house.  He showed me around Versilia.I don't know if it was escaping from the heat or what but I fell in love with this part of the Tuscan coast.  Sometimes referred to as the Tuscan Riviera, Versilia is in the Northwest part of Tuscany.I stayed in the town of Marina di Piestrasanta. I had no idea I was so close to the Forte dei Marmi border.  The two towns share a great park filled with pines trees.  The smell was glorious.Marina di Piestrasanta was a little more laid back.  Forte dei Marmi reminded me of the Hamptons/Martha's Vineyard.There were all these super chic people on their bicycles whose families have been going to the area for decades.  Then you'd turn a corner and see a Veline/showgirl with massive fake breasts, injected duck lips, and a much older man on her arm.  As with the Hamptons and Martha's Vineyard, the new money is pushing up the price of real estate sky high.  Many locals worry about losing stores like a butcher shop or pasty shop to another high-end clothing store.FDM has become very popular with wealthy Russians.  Most of the real estate offices had signs in Italian and Russian.I know this is going to sound nuts, but it was so weird not to see any Americans or hear English.  Yes, I live in Italy, but Rome has a lot of tourists and American expats.  All the tourists in my hotel were Italian or German. There wasn't a single flip-flop girl sighting the whole weekend. I wonder why that is.Above Marina di Piestrasanta is the hill town of Pietrasanta.  This small town was packed with art.  The famous artist Botero has been going to Pietrasanta for thirty years and has a home in town.  To celebrate his 80th birthday, there was a large (and free) exhibition of his work.Versilia has been popular with artists for centuries. Michelangelo stayed in Pietrasanta.  What looks like snow on the Apuan Alps is actually marble.On my next trip I would like to visit one of the marble quarries.  Speaking of marble, some of the SIDEWALKS in Forte dei Marmi were made from the expensive material.I'm definitely spoiled by Caribbean beaches.  It's strange that I would love to have a place in the area but I probably wouldn't join a beach club.  I loved the beach town vibe but didn't love the beaches.People were very friendly and the food was delicious. I drank a lot of Franciacorta.Overall, I had a great birthday weekend.  I had one moment of, "everyone is here is with someone or their family, and I'm alone" but it passed pretty quickly.   I think it helped to be surrounded by so much beauty, delicious food, and the sea.The night of my birthday I went to the Principe Hotel roof bar for a glass of Franciacorta after dinner.  The views were stupendous.  I believe the views were the reason my glass of wine was double the price of what I paid at dinner even though it was from the same vineyard.That's okay, as the kids would say YOLO, you only live once.