Rome Report – What’s In Season At The Farmers Market?

Buongiorno!

It’s good to be home.  I do miss my family, the beaches, and the warm baguettes, of course but three months is a long time to be away.  

One thing I love most about living in Italy is grocery shopping.  Yes, that’s correct.  When I lived in Los Angeles, I had business lunches and dinners almost every weekday (and some weekends).   When I did cook, I would think about what I wanted to make and then go to the Gelson’s in my neighborhood or to Bristol Farms and buy what I needed. 

I was a big fan of the Santa Monica Farmers’ market and maybe one or two Saturdays a month I would hop on The 10 and pay $30 for three green peppers.  The produce was outstanding but very expensive. The market was open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. 

When I moved to Rome and found the Trionfale Market I couldn’t get over the quality of the ingredients (Santa Monica level) and how reasonably priced it was.  One third to half of what I was paying in Campo dei Fiori’s market.  I do have excellent supermarkets in my neighborhood but I buy all my produce and occasionally meat and fish at the market.  My meat consumption plummeted once I move to Italy.  I eat more grains and vegetables now, it’s easier here.  I don’t miss the meat and when I do buy it, I know where it’s coming from.  Meat is definitely more expensive here than in the States.  It’s a once a week thing or maybe once every other week.  

I had to completely rethink how I cook and shop for food after I moved here.  One day I wanted to make a broccoli frittata.  I cannot tell you why I was fixated on that dish that weekend but I wrote out my little list and off to the market I went.

I got to Trionfale and there was no broccoli to be found.  It wasn’t in season.  I was thrown!  One vendor told me I could probably buy some at a supermarket but he warned me that it wouldn’t taste that great.  Now, I have a better sense of what’s in season.  I do cook “international” foods as well but even then; I try to keep it seasonal.   I know my palate has changed since I've moved to Rome.  For example, I used to eat tomatoes all the time that had no flavor.  I spent my formative years in New Jersey. I know good tomatoes.  My dad used to grow them in our vegetable garden yet, there I was buying tomatoes that tasted like cardboard.  Never again! Even the out of season supermarket tomatoes here tastes better. 

I’ve been gone a while so I was very curious to see what currently was in season.  I went to the Mercato Flamino II. 

Look at these beauties! 

Puntarelle found only during the winter. The salad, made with garlic and anchovies, is very Roman (and very good).

This neighborhood is east of mine.  It’s a bit of a walk but not as far as Trionfale.  I usually go to Trionfale if I need to see my butcher.  There’s a great butcher closer to me but we call them Diamonds.  

These markets are open six days a week Monday – Saturday.  There are two small ones very close to my house or I can go to the bigger ones in Trieste, Prati, or near Termini. 

The market by Circo Massimo (open on weekends) is outstanding.  That market is local.  Farmers and food from this region only.  

Buon weekend a tutti!

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The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *

Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.

This view.

Livia getting her Prosecco on.

Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met.  Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude.  Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth.   She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer.   Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.  

The lunch Violante prepared was delicious.  The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous.  I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.

Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.

Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.

Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.

As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.

Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.

Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.

We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.

We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.

Caffe realness.

It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.

The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.

Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.

Plate designed by Violante.

Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.

Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.

BANANAS!

Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events.  For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.

*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.

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Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.

I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan.  I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.

Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.

It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me.  However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.

My friend Marta and I met for brunch.  Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10.  It’s a good thing we did.  The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m.  The space is lovely.  It’s minimalist/modern yet warm.  The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful.  The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.

We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.

I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.

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Closed on Mondays.

Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679

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Polignano a Mare, Puglia - Italy

One of the highlights of my retreat in Puglia with Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga, was our day trip to Polignano a Mare.There are not enough adjectives to describe how beautiful it was, so I hope my photos will help.Polignano a Mare is an approximately forty minute drive from Bari.  It's the birthplace of singer Domenico Modugno, known for a little song called Volare.   The Historic Center sits on a 20 meters/65 feet limestone cliff.  We entered through the main Porta Vecchia gate and happily got lost in the winding streets until lunch time.What a lunch it was. I heard that Ristorante Grotta Palazzese was about the views and not so much the food. Our lunch was delicious.  That could be due to the newish chef.  The views are spectacular.  I thought the service was great but we had a fixed menu and it wasn't too crowded.  We were there during the off season.  Reservations are a must during the high season and I've read it's quite pricey, especially for dinner.After lunch several of us walked back down to the sea.  Two women in our group decided to go in for a dip.  An older local gentleman was scandalized to see them walking into the sea with their clothes on.  He was concerned they would catch a cold or something wearing wet jeans.IMG_6444.jpg IMG_6480.jpg IMG_6501.JPEG IMG_6466.jpg IMG_6460.jpg IMG_6442.jpg IMG_6473.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted. 

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Eating, Praying, and Moving in Puglia

I made it to Puglia, finally!I've wanted to visit this region of Italy for years.  I was excited to learn that Eat, Pray, Move had a yoga retreat in Puglia and signed up.I wrote about my first yoga retreat which was in Tuscany.  That retreat had an art component. This retreat had a Move + Manifest one.We went on days trips to Alberobello, Polignano al Mare, Martina Franca, Matera, and Ostuni.  We covered a lot so instead of writing the longest blog post on earth, this is more of an overview and I will write about some of the individual towns we visited later.  There was free time built into the schedule so you never felt rushed. All classes and activities were optional.We were a group of twelve women with most of us being from the States and one from Australia.  It was a great group and fun to get to know everyone.  Small world alert...I was speaking with one of the women and she made a passing reference to the university she graduated from. I told her that I was an alum too. We talked about our previous jobs and she mentioned a best friend, a Hollywood screenwriter, who also graduated from Syracuse University.  Her friend was one of my former assistants and it was his first job in the industry.  Random!Michelle's workshops were excellent and helpful.  I'm slightly biased as I've worked with Michelle earlier this year.  It's one thing to open up one-on-one but in a group, not so easy.  On the first day I was a little skeptical about the whole thing.  By the end of the week, this was me:jojo-emotions.gifI went to Puglia in late September. While we had some rainy days, I've heard from my Pugliese friends that it's a great time to visit.  The weather is still warm and it's less crowded.  Puglia gets packed in the summer with Italians coming home from other regions, and Italian tourists.  It seems that for at least the last five years, there's been a ton of press about Puglia being the "next" Tuscany.  Alberobello and Matera had a lot of tourists but overall Puglia is still off the beaten path for most American tourists.  It's a shame as Puglia is a beautiful region and the food is off the chain. Seriously, I cannot stress how fresh and delicious the food was.  Puglia's in my top four along with Piemonte, Emilia-Romagna, and Sicily as my favorite Italian food regions.Our base was the Masseria Fumarola.  It's an hour or so drive from the Brindisi airport.  Thankfully, Alitalia wasn't on strike and was still solvent at the time.IMG_6323.jpgThe Masseria (which is what country estate houses are called in Puglia) was perfection.  It's located in the heart of the Valle d'Itria area. The main farmhouse dates back to the early 1800s. Once a working farm run by the grandmother of the current owner, Masseria Fumarola was renovated by the owner's architect father.  He turned it into a beautiful boutique hotel without stripping the buildings of their original charm.Love the stone floors.  I was so busy enjoying the conversations and the food, I forgot to take photos of the dining room.IMG_6339.jpgIMG_6725.jpgIMG_6722.jpgIMG_6728.jpgThe Masseria is surround by six acres of woodlands that includes, olive groves, vineyards, several vegetable gardens, and orchards.IMG_6489.jpgEach room/bungalow is unique. I loved how the trulli were incorporated.IMG_6307.jpgIMG_6302.jpgThe pomengranate tree outside our bunalow.IMG_6350.jpgThe meals we had were simple, outstanding, and very local.  Most of the vegetables came from the gardens.The one day it was warm enough to go swimming in their pool, we went to the sea.  We appreciated the huge fireplace in the main building during the cool evenings.  We would meet there for workshops, or a glass of wine (or both) and in the morning, there were fruits, tea/coffee available for us before our 8:00 a.m. yoga class.masseria_fumarola__(47)_0.jpgI was a tightly wound ball of stress when I stepped onto the plane in Rome.  I'm still processing everything I learned during the workshops but physically I feel much better.I walked around the property at sunrise. I was greatful for the stillness, the scents, the freshness of the air, and the beauty of it all. My yoga has improved by leaps and bounds since the summer.  This time my mind didn't wander.  While Erin's classes sometimes kicked my butt (my abs were on fire the next day) I looked forward to that hour and fifteen minutes.Rome can be a very difficult city and this year has really tested my perseverance.  During my trip to Puglia, I was able to reconnect a bit with the main reasons why I moved to Italy in the first place.I cannot wait to return to Puglia. Bari and Lecce are on my list.IMG_6332.jpgIMG_6352.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone, except for the pool photo from Masseria Fumarola. 

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Life in Rome - Ercoli 1928 Parioli

I have lived in Parioli for a year now and love it.  When I told people I was moving from the Historic Center to Parioli, everyone had an opinion (mostly negative)."It's so boring," was one of the main criticisms I heard regarding Parioli.  Granted, it's not as exciting as living around the corner from the Drunken Ship but that's okay.There are plenty of great places in this neighborhood to get your aperitivi on and the prices are much lower than the Center. That said, it is a more residential area.  There are rarely any tourists and while there are quite a few American and British expats living in Parioli, I seem to bump into them only at the DOC or Carrefour supermarkets.The latest addition to the 'hood is Ercoli 1928 Parioli and I am here for it.  I met a friend for an aperitivo during the holidays. The first person I saw when we walked in was Federico Tomasselli, the bar manager and one of the best bartenders in Rome. What a very pleasant surprise!  He used to be at Barnum on Via del Pellegrino.  I lived on Pellegrino and spent a lot of time at Barnum because of Federico and Patrick (Patrick is now at Caffe Propaganda).My friend and I sat at the bar and loved it.  The bar's specialty is Vermouth. My friend said their drink was outstanding.  If you don't drink Vermouth, no worries.  Ercoli's wine list is deep and they have a solid cocktails list too.I returned with another friend the other week and this time we sat in the front because the bar was still setting up.We ordered glasses of wine and the Italian cheese plate.  Outstanding.The service was great and everyone was friendly.  Trust me, this is not the norm in Rome where service can range from indifference to outright hostility.  Ha.My friend picked up some takeout for her husband.  I need to ask her how the meatballs were. The cheese selection is fantastic and will be problematic.  I haven't eaten lunch or dinner here yet but have heard very positive reviews about chef Andrea di Raimo's dishes.IMG_0646.jpgcella formaggi.jpgIMG_0727.jpgThere are people don't care how a place looks as long as the drinks are great.  I'm not one of those people.  For food, it's a different story.  There are wonderful restaurants that don't have much of a décor but it's okay because the food is on point.  However, when it come to aperitivi/cocktails, atmosphere is also very important to me.IMG_0709.jpgErcoli Parioli knocks it out of the park.  The space is divided into three areas.  There's a restaurant, a deli, and the bar/cantina.The architect is Roberto Liorni, who's responsible for several of my favorite restaurant spaces including, Pastificio San Lorenzo a Roma, Rosti, and 'Gusto. The latter opened in 1998 and other restaurants are still "referencing" it.  Liorni was also the architect for the film company Cattleya's headquarters.  All these places have their own vibe but with his unmistakable DNA, contemporary, chic, yet comfortable.I adore the interior design at Ercoli.  It's not trying to be the Roman version of a space in Soho or on Abbot Kinney.  It fits the neighborhood and doesn't look like every single restaurant that has opened recently.  I love the plaid...an unexpected touch.DSC08385.jpgDSC08441.jpgIMG_0715.jpgIMG_0725.jpgIMG_0739.jpg12_IMG_4384.jpgDSC08357.jpgDSC08482.jpgDSC08137.jpgI finished the cheese I bought.  I'm trying to avoid Ercoli this week. I don't think I will be successful.

Ercoli 1928 Parioli
Viale dei Parioli, 184
00197 Roma
+39 06 8080084
Other photos taken by me and my iPhone.

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A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily

Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal.  Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident.  I got lost constantly.  It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere.  This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man.  Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room.  It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views.  It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.IMG_9255.jpgI woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna.   IMG_8841.jpgIMG_9189.jpgIt got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before.  It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time.  I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.IMG_9209.jpgIMG_9215.jpgOf course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out.  IMG_9229.jpgIMG_9222.jpgIMG_9197.jpg IMG_8858.jpg IMG_9186.jpgIMG_9236.jpgIMG_9240.jpgIMG_9241.jpgGrazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation.  None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost.  What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner.  Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa.  It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view.  Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. IMG_9021.jpgIMG_9020.jpgIMG_9018.jpgNext, Modica.Had a slight fender bender.  It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled.  At least I wasn't driving a stick shift.   I thought Modica was beautiful as well.IMG_9094.jpgIMG_9081.jpgThree years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia.  I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli.  If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again.  Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out.  The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year!  The word is out. There were small tour buses.  The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related).  I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.IMG_9143.jpgIMG_9148.jpgDinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.IMG_9159.jpgBy time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off.  Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets.  Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada.  It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain.  I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain.  Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general.  I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North.  However, Sicily keeps calling me.  I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring.  The food and wine are incredible.  The people I've met made me feel at home.IMG_9076.jpgIMG_9146.jpgSicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.         

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Snack Chat - A Summer Treat with Nathan Turner

I saw on Instagram that Nathan Turner was shooting an online series for The Design Network.What a fun idea.  Nathan is a very talented interior designer but he's also known for being quite the host.For this series, he has invited several of his design friends to cook a little something, something in the kitchen.  Nathan's enthusiasm is infectious.I met him, briefly, at his shop (a must if you're in Los Angeles) during Kathryn M. Ireland's design workshop and he couldn't have been lovelier.There are six episodes (he's currently shooting the second season).  I thought this Banana Berry Trifle dish he made with Mary McDonald was the perfect summer dish.maxresdefault.jpgI want to make this.  I may need to wait until my friends return to Rome though. I can't eat this whole thing by myself.Speaking of Rome, it's Ferragosto time.  No trips to Sicily or the Caribbean for me this summer, tears!  However, there are some very excited things happening here and I cannot wait to share more in September.Buone Vacanze a tutti!    

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Buone Feste!

Wait a minute.  How is it Christmas Eve already?!It's a miracle that I'm still alive to write this short post. The farmer market was madness this morning.  I was there at 7:45 a.m. and the nonne were out in force.  One nonna and I almost got into fisticuffs over tortellini.The past few weeks have been pretty crazy at work so I haven't been as Christmasy as I would like.  I'm going to start right now (better late than never) with a favorite.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwacxSnc4tII hope your holidays are wonderful.    

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Life in Rome - A Taste (just a taste) of Spring

The song UMBRELLA is playing on a loop in my head.Finally, we had a sunny day in Rome today. I try not to complain too much on Twitter given what my friends who live on the East Coast in the States are dealing with.  I love snow but it's easy to say that when you don't have to commute in it or shovel it.There are tiny signs of Spring busting out in Rome.  Flowers are starting to bloom, tourists are wearing T-shirts while locals still wear winter coats, and the Farmers Markets are filled with artichokes.I have Spring Fever.  Hardcore.Villa Borghese Park.IMG_0894  I was jogging in the park and saw this peacock enjoying the sunshine.IMG_0910 Another sign of Spring, the Rome Marathon.IMG_1130 Blooming tree in Villa Borghese Park.IMG_1172  IMG_1179  IMG_1188  IMG_1193 Springy colors.IMG_1196 These strawberries from the Testaccio Farmers Market were delicious.IMG_1209 A clear sign of Spring.  Roman artichokes.IMG_1214 And spring peas at the market in Campo dei Fiori.IMG_1217Photos:  Me and my iPhone 

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Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas

I cannot believe it's Christmas 2014 already. Where did this year go?In a sea filled with awful news (I really need to ease up on how much I watch and read everyday), it's good to be reminded of joyous things.Last Friday my friend, Gina, invited me to meet her, Rachel, and Elizabeth at their friend Alice's holiday pop-up bakery.  Alice Is a food stylist and cook.  Her gingerbread cookies were delicious.  I wonder if it's possible to order some during the off season.  I must investigate.I loved the simple decorations, the Prosecco, and most importantly, sharing them with friends old and new.IMG_9972IMG_9979IMG_9977It's not easy to be far away from my family during the holidays, but I feel very fortunate to be surrounded by an incredible group of friends.Merry Christmas!! 

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Seven Days of Sicily - Day 4 - Ortigia's Farmers Market

I kept bumping into Erica and her parents at the market.We do have great markets in Rome but the market in Ortigia is on another level.  I think it's because the food doesn't have far to travel.  The freshness and variety is unreal.I'm still going on and on to Erica about the peaches I had.  I'm sure she's tired of hearing about them.I didn't buy any fish but I did eat my share from the market.  I'm still talking about that too.A MUST is the shop, Fratelli Burgio, located near the end of the market closest to the sea.  It gets very crowded so be patient.  I hear they have fantastic sandwiches and aperitivi.   The line for sandwiches was long and there was only one person behind the counter.  Poor guy.I bought some Pachino sun dried tomatoes in olive oil there.  At thirty-two euros a kilo they were not cheap but were worth every single euro.A bowl of said tomatoes.  Pachino tomatoes are grown only on the Southeastern coast of Sicily.IMG_8132 The fishmongers were quite lively (and flirty).  I was too shy to snap a photo of the very attractive gentleman who called me Ms. New York.IMG_8004 IMG_7833 Baked ricotta cheese at Fratelli Burgio.IMG_8008 IMG_7829 IMG_7821 

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 Photos: Me with my iPhone

 

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Seven Days of Sicily - Day 2 - Food and Wine

You can see and taste the Greek, Spanish, and North African influences in Sicilian cuisine.The rich agricultural diversity of the island (the interior landscape is completely different from the coast) has also played a role in making this cuisine so unique (and delicious).A separate post will be written about the Ortigia Farmers Market.Some of my favorite Sicilian foods/dishes are:Arancini - Rice balls fried with either a ragu sauce inside or eggplant (and sometimes both).Capers - Picked by hand, these small flowers buds can be quite pricey outside of Italy.Caponata - An eggplant dish usually served as an antipasta.  Every region of the island has their own way of making it.  I heard it takes a long time to cook.  Maybe I can convince my friend Gina to make it in Rome.Couscous al pesce - Couscous with fish.Fish -  It's usually prepared simply.  No need for extravagant sauces and spices when the food is so fresh.  Anchovies, Vongole, Sea Urchins, Swordfish, Amberjack, Grouper,  Tuna, Sardines, and Sea Bream are some of the local fish you will find in Sicily.Granita -  Nobody does it better than Sicily.  Nobody.Pasta alla Norma - Originally from the city of Catania, this pasta dish is made with lightly fried eggplant, grated ricotta salata, and basil.  I've never made this dish.  I think it's time to try it.Pasta con Sarde - Pasta with sardines. Usually has pine nuts, fennel, and raisins.Sicilian Bread - Yes, it is different from the bread on the mainland.  It has a golden color thanks to the durum semolina flour used from locally grown wheat.Sfincione -  A pizza type dish.  The dough is thicker and airier.Wine - There is a lot of excitement about Sicilian wines and their talented producers.  I usually drink Piemontese, French, (and a few Lazio ones when making Roman dishes) wines at home but I'm learning more about this region thanks to my knowledgeable friends.  I really enjoy wines from the Mt. Etna area.I know this sounds outrageous but I'm not a big cannoli fan.  Meanwhile my partner on this series, Erica, was on a mission to try every single cannolo and cassatina in the neighborhood. Pasta alla Norma.  So good.IMG_8242 Little cassata cakes.  AKA cassatiini.IMG_8196 I never had a Rosé from Mt. Etna before.   The waitress at Clandestino recommended it.  It was very good.IMG_7769 Pasta with swordfish, vongole, and cherry tomatoes.IMG_8065 Sigh.IMG_8193 A white wine from Agrigento.  The owner of a little shop on Via Savoia (n. 2) recommended it after I told him I was invited to a lunch featuring risotto with shrimp.  It was a big hit.  I went back to buy another bottle.  I hope there's a shop in Rome that sells it.IMG_7906 One of my favorite things about late spring and summer is drinking homemade iced tea with lemon granita (tè fatto in casa con limone granita).  It's like an Italian Arnold Palmer.IMG_8300

Photos: Me and my iPhone

 Of course now I'm starving.  What are some of your favorites?

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Stylish Simplicity - Ziti Rigati Con Pomodori/Ziti Rigati With Tomatoes

This Thanksgiving I went to Sicily.  It was my first trip to the main island and I stayed at the incredible Monaci delle Terre Nere.On my last day, I had this for lunch.IMG_4779When you have a dish with so few ingredients, they better be of the freshest and highest quality ingredients.  There are no sauces or foam to mask bad food.While this dish was simple, the flavors were not.  The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente and the tomatoes had that killer combo of acidity and sweetness that you cannot find in out of season tomatoes at a mega supermarket.We eat with our eyes as well.  I really appreciated the presentation.  It's Stylish Simplicity.

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Weekend Inspiration - Rosé Wine

When I was growing up in the States, rosé had a reputation for being a second rate wine.  I don't know why that is.However, in St. Martin (the half French, half Dutch island) I noticed it everywhere, restaurants (including upscale ones), beach bars, house parties, etc.Once my parents moved back to the island, my siblings and I started to spend more time there.   My sister, Daniella, LOVES rosé and would insist on stopping by a wine shop to stock up for our stay.Now, thanks to Daniella, I am a big fan of getting my rosé on the minute the warm weather arrives.Certain words and images come to mind when I drink rosé: summer, family, friends, good food, beaches, the Caribbean, outdoor seating in my favorite piazza, France, Sicily, parties, pink.Some rosés at the fantastic wine shop, Comptoir France, in Rome,Here's a write up about rosé from The Kitchn.Buon weekend a tutti!

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Stylish Simplicity - Lemonade

Okay, the recipe below is simple but what makes it stylish?  To me, its simplicity!

The summer heat has finally arrived and the last thing I want to do is to be in the kitchen making complicated things.

When I'm at the market and see the huge Amalfi lemons, I must make this lemonade and add a sprig of mint.

Italian-Lemon-GrovesPhoto: Exsus

Homemade Lemonade 1 ¾ white sugar8 cups water1 ½ cup lemon juice (about 10 lemons)In a small saucepan combine sugar with 1 cup of the water. Bring to a boil until the sugar dissolves. Allow to cool to room temperature then refrigerate until chilled.Put the lemons in hot water for 10 minutes then roll to loosen up the juice.Remove seeds from lemons (leave in as much or as little pulp as you like). Squeeze the lemons in a pitcher, added the chilled sugar syrup and then 7 cups cold water.

Enjoy!

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Snapshots - Salina, Sicily

It took me forever to get to Salina.I took a car (at 5:00 a.m.) to the airport to fly to Palermo, a taxi from the Palermo airport to the central train station, the train from Palermo to Milazzo, a ferry from Milazzo to Lipari, a ferry from Lipari to Salina.Once I arrived, I understood why so many of my Italian friends schlep from Rome, Milan, etc. to visit the Aeolian islands.  Stunning.Salina is surprisingly green for a volcanic island, tiny (population 2,000), and there was a constant breeze.  The food was delicious and folks knew how to make a very good cocktail.It was my first trip to any island in Italy.  That's bananas.  I'm an island person.  I was born on the island of Manhattan and my parents are from St. Martin.I cannot wait to return.psfilicudipsgranitasalina1psf&bchurchpschurch 

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Snapshots: Rome - Ferragosto Lunch

It's Ferragosto, one of the major Italian holidays.The city has pretty much cleared out except for tourists and people who work with tourists.One tradition I fully support is the Ferragosto lunch.  This year my friend Erica and I decided to Treat. Our. Selves. and have a proper lunch at one of our neighborhood places Pierluigi.
Unfortunately, it was so outrageously hot, we sat inside.We also sat next to rapper/singer Frank Ocean, which was definitely one of my more random celebrity sightings.It is NOT a holiday in the States.  I had to work today and have a conference call tonight (the L.A. time difference can be a killer sometimes).That said, meeting a good friend for a delicious lunch is a wonderful thing.Buon Ferragosto a tutti!
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Traveling To Rome? You Need These Apps.

My friend, Erica, has written a more in-depth post on Huffington Post about Rome based apps.  I'm writing about my top three.I receive a lot of e-mails asking me where to eat in Rome.  I love to cook and have my favorite restaurants, but I'm by no means an expert.  Instead, I suggest people buy apps by Gillian McGuire, Katie Parla and Elizabeth Minchilli.  I've asked them why they decided to create their apps (which is a lot of work).  Thanks for responding, ladies!Why buy an app?  For one, they are updated frequently.  Some guidebooks become outdated the moment they are published.  Also, these apps are written by people who really know this city.  They live here.  They see the vendors they write about, know the chef/cooks at the restaurants, and capture the city in a way that someone on short term assignment cannot do.I think they are an invaluable resource.  There are a lot of restaurants, gelato places, coffee shops, etc. here and yes, it is possible to have a bad meal in Rome. With these apps, the chances of that happening are greatly reduced.EAT ROME by Elizabeth Helman Minchilli.  When Elizabeth was twelve her family moved to Rome.  She returned for good while studying in Florence for her dissertation.  Elizabeth has written books on design and has been writing about food, design, and travel for various publications for twenty years.  One of my favorite features of her app is the comment section. It's great to read everyone's experiences at various restaurants.   Elizabeth does respond to feedback which helps keep the app up to date."I'm a big believer in embracing all of the technical innovations that are happening in publishing. While I've always been happy to write for magazines, newspapers and book publishers (and continue to do so) I love the possibility that blogs and apps present. They give me not only much more control over the content, but allow exciting and extremely helpful direct contact with my readers."ROME FOR FOODIES by Katie Parla.   Katie grew up in the Garden State (aka New Jersey).  She started working in restaurants from a young age and moved to Rome in 2003 after graduating from college. Since her move, Katie has earned a sommelier certificate (FISAR) and an MA in the Cultura Gastronomica Italiana (Universita’ degli Studi di Roma “Tor Vergata”). Katie has has written several guide books and writes about food and travel for a number of publications. The Katie's Picks section is great.  She has a very specific POV when it comes to food and doesn't hold back her opinions."I decided to develop and app for a few reasons. I wanted to experiment with new media, find a new way to connect with readers, and monetize blog content. I had the app re-developed in order to introduce concepts of branding and improve user interface."ROME FOR EXPATS by Gillian McGuire.  Gillian has lived in Rome for seven years.  Prior to her move, she and her family lived in several African countries.  Her expats friends call her "The Source" for a reason.   I've included an expat app because there are people who travel to Rome and rent apartments and/or stay for an extended period.  If you need to know where to find an English speaking dentist, or a hairdresser, cilantro, or maybe you're dying for a bagel, or looking for a personal trainer (to help burn off that bagel), this is the app for you."First, I love an assignment, so I found I was often asked the question "where can I find... x?

And second, in my seven years of living in Rome I had compiled quite a list. I partnered with the Sutro Media team and created Rome for Expats as an easy to access resource of all of that information"
Buon eating!
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