Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun
The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.
Michelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point. However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes. We took it.It was great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town. The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day. It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday. Our day trip was the perfect time to go. It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.
Montepuclciano has a population of about 14,000. It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.
As you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town. Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square. The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511. The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.
We ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano. We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria. The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee. Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do. These views are worth the price
I must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio. The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Ten Years Ago I Moved to Rome, Italy
The two things people ask me all the time when they've learn how long I've lived here are, if I have any regrets or when am I moving back to America.If this were a sabbatical, I would've moved back by now and more importantly, I wouldn't have gone through the hell that is getting a driver's license in Europe (I hear Germany's is beyond difficult).Regarding regrets, I have none. Even during my worst days in Italy, I never got homesick. Of course I miss my family and friends. I do miss the efficiency of America and I know it would be easier to be a business owner and writer there. Rome's going through a horrible downturn but that makes me want to move out of Rome, not the country.As of today I have lived in Rome longer than any other city (after college). I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and moved there from New York City. If I had moved directly to Rome from NYC maybe things would've felt differently. When I arrived in Rome, I was a very bitter and broken person. Hollywood had worn me down. I was numb, which is not a good trait for anyone who works in a creative field.My first trip to Italy was in 2005. I wasn't an Italophile. I just wanted to travel to a new place, see some art, eat some good food. In junior high school and high school I knew I would live overseas one day. Italy was not on my list. That first trip to Rome surprised me and changed my life in so many ways. It felt like home but I wasn't planning on moving anywhere until retirement. My Hollywood friends were skeptical. They said had I traveled to Iowa, I would've had the same reaction. So I returned the following year after getting a new job. Nope, that first visit wasn't a fluke.
During the fall of 2007 I was working on a movie in Toronto. I was one of the executive producers and was on location for almost three months. I was so happy despite the six day shoot, very long hours, and night shoots (killer). As the wrap date approached, I was speaking with my dad. My parents had moved back to St. Martin, after retirement, a few years earlier. He could hear the anxiety in my voice. My dad asked me why I was going back to Los Angeles. I told him I had wonderful bosses. He thought that was great but why wasn't I moving to Italy now? What was I waiting for? I wasn't living in Los Angeles, just existing. New days are not guaranteed to us.I was shook. My fellow first generation Americans will feel me when I say my parents were NOT go follow your bliss kind of folks. They were grounded, intense Caribbean people. I'm pretty sure my mom blames the fact that I'm not married on my lack of an advanced degree (ha). My parents were very hard on us growing up and had high expectations. So for my dad to say go to Italy, that was earth shattering to me. I mean, what would I do in Italy? It's not as if I had an engineering degree and could go work for a Fortune 500 company.Three years to the month of my first visit, I said good-bye to everything I knew and moved to a foreign country. Looking back, it was a completely bonkers move.
It's been tough at times living here and last year, in particular, was difficult on a micro and macro level. I'm not the only person who was glad to say hello to 2018. 2017 was probably one of the most stressful years of my adult life. I got through it (with help from my family and friends) and this year is shaping up to be much better.It may sound melodramatic to say moving to Italy saved me. Moving here pushed me out of my comfort zone and made me wake up. I'm no longer a spectator in my life. I'm aware of time passing and how little of it we have. When you walk past buildings that are over a thousand years old, it put things in perspective. Moving to Italy forced me to stop running, look at the bigger picture, and figure out exactly why I was working in Hollywood. My post-Jumping the Broom disappointments (not with the movie) turned out to be the best thing that every happened to me. I didn't see it at the time. I wouldn't have interned for an interior designer, started my own company, and worked/be working on incredible design/decorating projects had things gone differently. It's through my work in design that I was able to reconnect with my love of storytelling, my creativity, and my passions.I never stopped screenwriting but kept my scripts to myself. One of my mentors/friends, a senior Hollywood film agent, was in town with his wife over the Christmas holidays. He asked me what I was working on. He has always encouraged me to do both, to write and to decorate. I felt strongly I had to pick a lane. He disagreed. Many creative people are multi-faciated. During a yoga retreat last fall, I realized that I was still trying to follow a linear career path and not being open to all possibilities. I was still holding on to some bitterness regarding my Hollywood career that I truly needed to let go. How could I work smarter, not just harder? Who gets to decide what success looks like? I must continue to focus on the craft of screenwriting (and improving) not the things I have no control over.The first project I sold as a screenwriter was a teen movie to an Italian film company within a few months of moving here. However, the majority of my time was spent in my apartment alone writing/working in English with people back in Los Angeles. I was in a giant expat bubble. Four years ago when I opened my company, I started working in Italy and in Italian. I jumped into the deep end of the pool. I couldn't have a situation where expensive custom furniture and/or draperies were made incorrectly because my upholsterer misunderstood my janky Italian. I had to step it up. My get by Italian was fine for a casual conversation not business.The last time I was in Los Angeles I was there for Hollywood meetings and for a interior design project. I was having dinner with a friend before my flight back to Rome. I said that Los Angeles wasn't so bad and that I was looking forward to my next trip. She wondered if I had fallen and hit my head on the pavement. I was serious. I saw another side to the city running around Los Angeles with my client to different showrooms. L.A. traffic is still atrocious though.I have acquired some patience since moving to Rome, a big improvement. I cook more, eat well (said goodbye to no-carb/all diets), and my cost of living is much lower. I'm healthier, more physically active, and learning new things all the time. I'm fortunate to have incredible friends here who are like family.During my first month in Italy made a comment that I get chills when I see the Pantheon. Someone replied it was only because everything was new to me. I know that's not true. Ten years on I still get chills when I walk past the Pantheon. I don't take that for granted.
Design Inspiration - Palazzo Reale, Naples, Italy
The Royal Palace of Naples is a must on my list of things to do in Naples. I wasn't able to visit until my third trip and now I want to return just so I could spend more time there.The audio tour is interesting and informative. Palazzo Reale is one of four royal palaces in and near Naples. Construction, with prominent architect Domenico Fontana, started in the 17th century by the Spanish Viceroys initially as a home to host the visiting King of Spain. He never came (so rude!) and the palace eventually became the home of various rulers, including the Bourbons and the Savoys. The Kingdom of Naples was fought over by the French and Spain for centuries. At times the Kingdom included most of southern Italy, and Sicily.The Palace was expanded over the years. Napoleon's sister, Caroline, lived in the Palace with her husband Joachim Murat (aka the Dandy King) who was the King from 1808-1815.The building suffered extensive damage from bombing during WWII but was restored.Below is the main staircase. It was very cloudy and overcast when I arrived. I still gasped when I walked in and saw this space. Pictures do not do it justice.
View from the top of the stairs.
This ceiling is unreal.
Close up of another ceiling. Gorgeous.
This floor tho.
How nice to have your own theatre.
And your own chapel.
A less ornate space. Love the simplicity of this light fixture.
Love this ceiling too. I chuckle when I hear the color grey is too trendy so now it needs to be over. I disagree. It's a classic.
The ballroom.
It was starting to clear up as I walked out. There's a view of the sea from several of the rooms but it was hard to get a photo without the scaffolding. The gardens are not public but there is an interior courtyard with a fountain.
Photos: me and my iPhone
Polignano a Mare, Puglia - Italy
One of the highlights of my retreat in Puglia with Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga, was our day trip to Polignano a Mare.There are not enough adjectives to describe how beautiful it was, so I hope my photos will help.Polignano a Mare is an approximately forty minute drive from Bari. It's the birthplace of singer Domenico Modugno, known for a little song called Volare. The Historic Center sits on a 20 meters/65 feet limestone cliff. We entered through the main Porta Vecchia gate and happily got lost in the winding streets until lunch time.What a lunch it was. I heard that Ristorante Grotta Palazzese was about the views and not so much the food. Our lunch was delicious. That could be due to the newish chef. The views are spectacular. I thought the service was great but we had a fixed menu and it wasn't too crowded. We were there during the off season. Reservations are a must during the high season and I've read it's quite pricey, especially for dinner.After lunch several of us walked back down to the sea. Two women in our group decided to go in for a dip. An older local gentleman was scandalized to see them walking into the sea with their clothes on. He was concerned they would catch a cold or something wearing wet jeans.
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
"See Naples and Die."
This is a phrase coined in the mid-1800s during the reign of the Bourbons. At the time Naples was the third most populous city in Europe after London and Paris. It was also one of the wealthiest.I prefer to agree with the original meaning of the phrase and not the "if you go to Naples you will die because it's so dangerous" image the city had for years.I first went to Naples in 2007 on a day trip during my second trip to Italy. I met the lovely Tracie P, then know as Tracie B. I don't believe that was almost eleven years ago! My last trip to Naples was with Erica in 2009. I thought it was four years ago at most.I cannot tell you how many people back then worried for my safety when I told them I was going to Naples. One friend said he hated the place as he was mugged literally five minutes after he walked out of the main train station. Naples was mentioned in the international press mostly for its pizza, the mafia, and a major garbage problem. During both trips I could count the number of American tourists on one hand. One famous guidebook said if Rome was overwhelming, don't go further south. Naples is Rome squared.I loved the energy of Naples during those early trips, even with the garbage situation. There's no place like it. It reminded me a little of pre-Disneyfied New York City.Not sure what the heck took me so long to return but I was shocked at the change. The city is cleaner than Rome. There are more American tourists. Fuelled in part by the popoluarity of the Ferrante book series, the international press is writing about the great things happening in Naples. Naples is "in". Are there still problems, yes. I recommend using the same precautions you would in any major, densely populated city. Leave the fancy watches, rings, etc at home or in your hotel safe.I wasn't as overwhelmed during this trip. It could be because I live in a walking city again whereas during my the first trip i was coming from Los Angeles where your car is a cocoon. I'd visited the archeological museum and Castel Nuovo on those trips. I wanted to see a few places I missed.My first stop was the Museo Capella Sansevero. You buy your ticket (€7) at the small nearby center/office . There was a long line to enter but it moved quickly. You cannot take any photos inside. It's not the easiest to find. It's on a small side street but my Google maps was on point.This is a church I would return to again, maybe in the dead of winter/off season so I could have more time to take it all in. I now understand why the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino is considered one of the most incredible sculptures in the world.I know this is all marble yet I have a hard time believing it.
Prince Raimondo di Sangro commissioned the young Sanmartino to create this work for his family's chapel. The Prince was a well-known alchemist and bold experimentalist. There are several other incredible works in the chapel inculding a poignant Pudicizia by Antonio Corradini, whose veiled female figure next to a cracked plaque, honors Raimondo's mother, Cecilia Gaetani d’Aquila d’Aragona. He was only 11 months old when she died.
There's a little room downstairs. Folks, once I descended down the narrow iron staircase I was shook. There are two skeletins, a man and a woman. They are encased in what looks like perfectly preserved human arterial systems. Over two centuries ago, Dr. Giuseppe Salerno from Palermo, along with the Prince, created theses anatomical works. There were/are all kinds of rumors as to how these bodies came to be. Word was that the Prince killed members of his staff, injecting them with liquid while they were still alive. Others said the arterial systems are reproductions. They are fascinating and creepy. No Google search for photos. Nope. Cannot. 
I got lost and went into many churches as I made my way to the restaurant Antica Osteria Pisano. Thanks for the suggestion, Gina. The restaurant is in the Historic Center on the cusp of the Forcella neightbhood. If you've watched the third season of GOMORRA you're familiar with this mural of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples.
I asked about the pasta of the day. It was Rigatoni alla Bolognese. I was skeptical about ordering this dish outside of Bologna but Gennaro (one of the owners) told me it was delicious. He was correct.I walked off my pasta getting lost on the way to Palazzo Reale. I had the palace on my list but never made it during my last two trips.I listened to the audioguide. I highly recommend it as the history of this palace is fascinating. The palace suffered some major damage during WWII but you can still get a sense of the wealth and presitage of the era.Located in Piazza del Plebiscito, the outside is understated. I was not prepared for this.
Or this.
I was overwhelmed by the beauty and will have to write a seperate post about the interiors and history of this palace.The seafront is very close to this piazza, just down the hill. I decided to walk along the sea on my way to the Chiaia neighborhood. A large section of the Lungamare is a car-free zone. This was started in 2012 and what a great idea. People, mostly locals, were out and about enjoying the sunny weather. There are plenty of caffes and restaurants
I didn't get to spend much time in the Chiaia area because I had to catch my return train. Chiaia is an upscale neighborhood where you find your luxury local shops and some of the international brands like Prada. I popped into a small enoteca, Belledonne, for a glass of wine. It was excellent and €6.I made my way to the closet Metro stop. I found the signage a little confusing but asked for directions.I took the fast Italo train. It's only an hour and usually there are great deals during the week for same day travel. I really need to spend more time in Naples.Photos: Me and my iPhone unless noted
Day Trip to Alberobello, Puglia
Happy New Year! I hope 2018 brings you much joy, peace, and happiness.I have read about and seen photos of the infamous trulli. Alberobello, which we visited during our Eat, Pray, Move, retreat, was packed with many American tourists even though it was late September. I can see why. There's nothing like it. This region is the only area in Italy that has these unique buildings and there's a concentration of them in Alberobello.The white, cone-roofed houses in Alberobello are a UNESCO World Heritage site. We had a great tour guide who explained the history of the trulli. There are many theories but the most popular one (and likely) is that during the 1600's the nobility imposed a high taxation on any permanent structure. The poor farmers built their houses so the roofs could be dismantled easily, by bascially removing one stone. Very clever.We were able to tour a trullo. It was incredible to learn some of them hosted whole families and their livestock. Other homes were comprised of several trulli with each one being a separate room.Our Masseria had several trulli on its property. I love how the architects incorporated them into the modern structures. Inspiring.
There are trulli with curious symbols on them. Some are clearly religious, the others? Another area for debate.
As you enter the main street of Alberobello, there are two hills. The one on your left is the old town/Historic Center and the main tourist street. It's filled with gift shops and places to eat/drink. There are a few shops selling items made locally. The other hill is more residential and the modern town. There are several piazzas with caffes, and butchers, clothing stores, etc. etc. The restaurant EVO, where I had one of the best meals ever, is located in a quiet corner near the Basilica. I wrote more about it for the Casa Mia Blog. Grazie, Erin for arranging this unforgettable meal and wine pairing.
I suggest spending time on both hills. Alberobello is tiny. The old town does have a bit of a Disneyland vibe but don't let that stop you. The view from the "new" town is spectacular.Alberobello was celebrating its Saint's Day. On the new hill everything was lit.
We were there on a raining cloudy day so my photos of the old town are not great. Here's a better one from zee Internets.
I took this one in the backyard of a trullo in the old town that was under renovation. 
These trulli were in the new town. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Eating, Praying, and Moving in Puglia
I made it to Puglia, finally!I've wanted to visit this region of Italy for years. I was excited to learn that Eat, Pray, Move had a yoga retreat in Puglia and signed up.I wrote about my first yoga retreat which was in Tuscany. That retreat had an art component. This retreat had a Move + Manifest one.We went on days trips to Alberobello, Polignano al Mare, Martina Franca, Matera, and Ostuni. We covered a lot so instead of writing the longest blog post on earth, this is more of an overview and I will write about some of the individual towns we visited later. There was free time built into the schedule so you never felt rushed. All classes and activities were optional.We were a group of twelve women with most of us being from the States and one from Australia. It was a great group and fun to get to know everyone. Small world alert...I was speaking with one of the women and she made a passing reference to the university she graduated from. I told her that I was an alum too. We talked about our previous jobs and she mentioned a best friend, a Hollywood screenwriter, who also graduated from Syracuse University. Her friend was one of my former assistants and it was his first job in the industry. Random!Michelle's workshops were excellent and helpful. I'm slightly biased as I've worked with Michelle earlier this year. It's one thing to open up one-on-one but in a group, not so easy. On the first day I was a little skeptical about the whole thing. By the end of the week, this was me:
I went to Puglia in late September. While we had some rainy days, I've heard from my Pugliese friends that it's a great time to visit. The weather is still warm and it's less crowded. Puglia gets packed in the summer with Italians coming home from other regions, and Italian tourists. It seems that for at least the last five years, there's been a ton of press about Puglia being the "next" Tuscany. Alberobello and Matera had a lot of tourists but overall Puglia is still off the beaten path for most American tourists. It's a shame as Puglia is a beautiful region and the food is off the chain. Seriously, I cannot stress how fresh and delicious the food was. Puglia's in my top four along with Piemonte, Emilia-Romagna, and Sicily as my favorite Italian food regions.Our base was the Masseria Fumarola. It's an hour or so drive from the Brindisi airport. Thankfully, Alitalia wasn't on strike and was still solvent at the time.
The Masseria (which is what country estate houses are called in Puglia) was perfection. It's located in the heart of the Valle d'Itria area. The main farmhouse dates back to the early 1800s. Once a working farm run by the grandmother of the current owner, Masseria Fumarola was renovated by the owner's architect father. He turned it into a beautiful boutique hotel without stripping the buildings of their original charm.Love the stone floors. I was so busy enjoying the conversations and the food, I forgot to take photos of the dining room.
The Masseria is surround by six acres of woodlands that includes, olive groves, vineyards, several vegetable gardens, and orchards.
Each room/bungalow is unique. I loved how the trulli were incorporated.
The pomengranate tree outside our bunalow.
The meals we had were simple, outstanding, and very local. Most of the vegetables came from the gardens.The one day it was warm enough to go swimming in their pool, we went to the sea. We appreciated the huge fireplace in the main building during the cool evenings. We would meet there for workshops, or a glass of wine (or both) and in the morning, there were fruits, tea/coffee available for us before our 8:00 a.m. yoga class.
I was a tightly wound ball of stress when I stepped onto the plane in Rome. I'm still processing everything I learned during the workshops but physically I feel much better.I walked around the property at sunrise. I was greatful for the stillness, the scents, the freshness of the air, and the beauty of it all. My yoga has improved by leaps and bounds since the summer. This time my mind didn't wander. While Erin's classes sometimes kicked my butt (my abs were on fire the next day) I looked forward to that hour and fifteen minutes.Rome can be a very difficult city and this year has really tested my perseverance. During my trip to Puglia, I was able to reconnect a bit with the main reasons why I moved to Italy in the first place.I cannot wait to return to Puglia. Bari and Lecce are on my list.
Photos: Me and my iPhone, except for the pool photo from Masseria Fumarola.
I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.
I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy. I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy. I couldn't wait to leave both times. The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me. Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work. My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage? I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place. I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets. It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch. He couldn't have cared less. Our mutual friend, had the same experience. She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence. She told me I needed to return to the city. That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip. My friends who live in Florence said the same thing. I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about. August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.
No, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi). It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence. In my defense, I wasn't the only one. A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell. She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students. Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then. How could it be? I was there for four days max. They live there. They know Florence. Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time. I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed. Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop. I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno". He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me. Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return. I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains. Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto. Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year. I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money. I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy. These ravioli were light and delicious. The waiters were lovely. It was the perfect birthday lunch.
I met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede. She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company. I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto. It's my kind of place. I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos. I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards. Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.
I met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning. Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence. Currently, she lives in Florence full-time. The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago. We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day. It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in. I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.
This was my first time visiting the church San Spirito. No pictures are allowed inside. Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.
Georgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there. We did. The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.
I went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat. The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy. I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel. It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center. The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.
I took the fast train home. Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.
There are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence. Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit. If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip. A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met. I cannot wait to return.
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Life in Rome - Mini-break at Le Méridien Visconti Hotel
One of my friends, who owns a boutique travel agency in Italy, told me that finding four star hotels in Rome is difficult. She said there are great options at the five-star high-end level and at the economical end but there are too many four-stars that are really a three- star at best.Enter Le Méridien. The Starwood Group recently added the Visconti Hotel to its portfolio. The hotel officially reopened this June after a twenty million dollar renovation.I had the opportunity to stay at the hotel for two nights. Before my stay I read reviews online because I'm anal. The reviews were very good except for two things, the air conditioning and the WiFi.Given my stay was happening during one of the worst heatwaves in history and I had several work deadlines, I was concerned.They must have fixed these issues as I'm happy to report I had no problems. In fact the A/C was so strong I had to turn it off. My fellow Americans, you know that NEVER happens in Italy.The hotel is located in Prati. It's a few minutes walk from Piazza Cavour and in the other direction (a slightly longer walk), Piazza del Popolo. I think it's a perfect location. You're near the Historic Center but not smack in the middle of it and the prices reflect this. The area is centrally located as Piazza Cavour is a major bus hub. For those who like to walk, you can cross the river and be in the heart of the Historic Center in ten minutes.The roof terrace is fantastic. Sometimes there are annoying loud seagulls who like to wait for people to leave and then dive in for the food. The waiters are on top of it though. Seagulls 0.
Service was great. Granted some of the employees at the hotel have seen me a few times but that wasn't the case with the check-in. I thought they were friendly. There was a small line when I arrived but it moved quickly.Location, price, design, of course all these things matter but when I stay in a hotel there are two things that are extremely important to me. Cleanliness. I cannot stand clutter and dirty bathrooms or kitchens freak me out. I don't want to step into a hotel bathroom and see hair in the drain. Just typing that made me feel queasy. The other thing is the bed. It must be comfortable.My room was spotless and the bed was excellent. The toiletries are Malin & Goetz. I was so geeked out to see them because no retailer in Rome sells these products. I checked the website and there is a store in Milan that carries them. I muust remember this important information for my next trip.
The interior design has mid-century touches that also speak to the hotel's location in the Eternal City. The head designer was Harry Gregory of the firm, ara Design International. They wanted to create something timeless.I adore the pared down use of marble, a material synonymous with Italy and Rome. I think too much marble can make an interior feel cold. At the Le Méridien it's warm and dramatic.The neutrals of grey, black, and white, with splashes of color, are relaxing and chic. The Longitude 12 Bar and Bistrot is a great place for a coffee during the day and for cocktails at night. The Bistrot also has a delicious lunch and dinner menu and starts serving wine around noon.In the Bistrot there's a communal table that has outlets for your laptop and phone adapters.
Downstairs, there was a wide selection for breakfast, including American bacon. I repeat, there was American bacon.
The hotel has an eclectic art collection, from abstract to figurative pieces, created with different materials. These artworks are from the private collection of the Toti family. Their collection focuses on Italian artists from the 1980s. When people think of Rome they often focus on classical art. It's wonderful to see some contemporaries pieces as well.
The gym is small but well-equipped with Technogym equipment. Did you know Technogym was an Italian company? I saw this brand in high-end gyms in New York City and Los Angeles and had no idea until I moved to Italy. Mind blown.I stayed at the hotel in early August but have been stopping by since April. This is not official market research but it seems to me that the hotel is very popular with couples, families, business travelers, and friends traveling together. I didn't see too many solo vacation travelers but I've always felt welcomed thanks to the friendly service.Photos: Me and my iPhone. Disclaimer: I was a guest of the hotel. However, opinions and thoughts are my own.
Eat, Pray, Move - Tuscany
I stopped practicing yoga over fifteen years ago after I seriously injured my right wrist. I was taking "Power Yoga" classes and I don't think I paid enough attention to what was going on with my body.I couldn't focus long enough in class. My mind was always racing, thinking about all the things I had to do or didn't do. The injury was a convenient excuse to say, "arriverderci" to yoga.I've known Erin for over eleven years. We met via our former blogs before meeting in person and we moved to Italy at the same time. Erin was on a sabbatical in Florence for a year or so and then moved back to the States. She returned frequently and we would always try to see each other. I remember when she started Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga seven years ago. She began with one retreat in Tuscany and over the years has added more locations. In 2014 she left her corporate job and now she holds on average sixteen retreats in nine countries, Italy (multiple locations) France, Spain, Croatia, Iceland, Morocco, Indonesia, India, and Japan. The latter she added this year.It's very inspiring to see how Erin has built this wonderful life and business from scratch. She has tapped into something very special.Last month I had the opportunity to see, in person, what Erin's accomplished. I was worried about the yoga. I had asked her in the past if it would bad form to go to a yoga retreat and pass on doing the yoga (ha). Erin assured me that all levels (including those with no experience) were welcome and that participation in all activities was optional.It was an incredible experience and I'm already planning my next retreat. This retreat was yoga and art. It was held at a country house right on the border of Tuscany and Umbria. I took the train into Chiusi, where I met the other participants. Julian and Erin picked us up.The house, Siliano Alto, is part of the “Le Coste” Estate (a 1500 acre protected nature and hunting reserve), and dates back to around 1760. Other sections were added in the 19th and 20th centuries. During the Second World War the house was used as a billet for German soldiers until it suffered a direct hit on the front side from an American bombing raid. After the War, the house was home to the farmers who worked on the estate. Five separate families lived upstairs and cows, horses and pigs were kept in the cantinas below. Julian and his family moved to the property in 2006 and began a two-year restoration project before opening up for art courses.
The location was wonderful with beautiful views and incredible sunsets. I was told that some wild boars were hanging out by our doors during the first night. I didn't hear them, which is a good thing.
I appreciated this welcome aperitivi.
During the welcome Erin went over the week's schedule was (there was a print out as well). I couldn't stay the entire week because of a work commitment back in Rome. There's plenty of free time built into the schedule. Breakfast and dinners are included, along with some lunches.The food is vegetarian and delicious. I didn't miss eating meat or fish at all. If you must get your meat-eating on, it's possible to so during the lunches that are not provided.
Erin is a certified yoga instructor and the morning classes usually start at 8:00 a.m. and last an hour and fifteen minutes. I'll be honest, I was struggling to get through our first class. I kept thinking about how hungry I was, Idris Elba, and work stuff. I couldn't get it together. Erin was great, checking our poses. If there was one movement that was too difficult for some of us in the class, she would suggest an easier one. The next day my abs were on fire.
The second day I had some fruit before class and made more of an effort to focus. Anytime I felt my mind starting to race again, I pumped the brakes. By the time I left the retreat, I was able to make through an entire class without any distractions.The non-yoga part of the retreat was fantastic as well. We visited the town of Chiusi where Julian, who is an artist and art teacher, gave us an excellent tour. We had pizza in town with the perfect crust. We also drove to the small borgo of Panicale and had a fun wine and olive oil tasting.
The next day was our day trip to Siena. I visited Siena during my second vacation to Italy. I had my guide-book and everything but I learned a lot more about the Duomo and the town with Julian. He went into detail regarding how the Plague impacted the city. Seven out of ten Sienese died.The Duomo is breathtaking. What Julian said about the cathedral architects of that era was profound. The architects were designing buildings that would be finished long after they died. They knew they would never see them completed. Very different from these McMansiony times.
On my last day we had an art class. We did several drawing exercises. Later, during our free time, several of us took advantage of the watercolor paints in the studio.
That day we also had a pasta making class. I haven't made pasta from scratch in years. I need to do it more often. The pasta was ridiculously good. All of us had seconds.
In the afternoon we went to Cortona. Of course we had to stop by Bramasole.
I can see why so many of the participants are repeaters. It's a genius way to travel, especially if you're a solo traveler. The retreats are small and personal. Yet, there's plenty of alone time if you need it.Since the retreat I've been trying to practice yoga at least three times a week. My friends, who are very serious about it, recommended a few beginner videos to me. It's a great way to start my day (good thing I saw 45's unhinged press conference this morning after yoga). I say this as someone who is not crunchy. I still don't understand what the heck is going on with this bulletproof Matcha tea craze.One of Erin's goals when she started Eat, Pray, Yoga, was to find a way to include charitable work. You can read more about the organizations they collaborate with here.
Life in Rome - Centrale Montemartini Museum, an Ancient and Modern Mix
This museum is not in the Historic Center but located in the dynamic and funky Ostiense neighborhood. It has been on my list for years and I finally visited it recently with my friend, Marta. We loved it.I saw a spread in American Vogue that had used the museum as a backdrop, so I thought I had an idea of what to expect.I was wrong. The museum is located inside a former power plant that was built in 1912. The plant closed during the early '60s. In 1997 the city used the abandoned space to temporarily house works from the Capitoline Museums, which were under renovation. Thankfully, the Cultural Minister had the idea to permanently convert the structure into a museum. Many of the pieces in the museum were excavated during the late 1900's and the 1930's.I found out after we left that I have personal connected to the museum. The Vignacce Marsyas piece was excavated during a 2009 dig in Villa delle Vignacce directed by my friend, Dr. Darius Arya. It's believed to have been the work of artisans from the early 2nd century. Thanks for the scoop, Erica!The space alone is worth a trip and the artwork inside is very interesting as well. I think this museum would appeal to young children too, especially if they’re into big machines.The museum was practically empty the afternoon we were there. We saw two artists sketching the mosaic floors and there was a small film crew setting up a shoot as we left. That’s it. Rome residents get a discounted ticket, so bring your I.D.It’s close to the one of the best pasty shops in Rome, Andreotti, and not far from a large EATALY. There’s excellent street art in the area. If you’re looking for something off the beaten path, this is museum is perfect. I've read some reviews from tourists who say the area is "sketchy." Perhaps this is the reason the museum is underrated? It's a shame as I think it's a good idea to get away from the crowds sometimes.
Via Ostiense 106Tel. +39 06 39967800Website www.centralemontemartini.orgOpen Tuesday to Sunday 9:00-19:00. Closed Mondays and some public holidays.Cash only.
A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region
The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy. I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.
We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro. Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate. Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work. During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.
Our lunch was excellent. Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate. On a design note, it was perfection. Great service too.
We decide to take a power walk before dinner. I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests. I don't know why boars freak me out. Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive? I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such. I know this is not logical.
During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged. We had a wonderful time. The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious. You never know with communal dining. I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit. Tears. Instead we went old school and played records. John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl. I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap. EW&F is one of my favorite bands. I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period. Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F. This person was also a black American Gen-Xer. I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo. It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance. Paradise.
During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.
We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend. It was delicious, and very pretty.
I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time. I adore this small hill town.
The first time I was there was during the dead of winter. This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off. However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit. We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town. The views were just ridiculous. Hello, is this real life?
The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.
Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi. It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi. Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom. I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003. He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.
We ate lunch in the entoeca. Outstanding. The service was incredible. As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.
The sun was trying to make an appearance.
Monteverdi is an unique experience. There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades. However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo. Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.
Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day. When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning. I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.
If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone
My Tamu's Cafe Interview
Last summer I was interviewed by the lovely Tamu McPherson owner/creator of All The Pretty Birds.Those who follow fashion know what a big deal Ms. McPherson is in the industry. She's a smart, dynamic, woman with a strong style POV. Tamu is also kind, down to earth, and hilarious.When she said she wanted to interview me, I'll be honest, I had a minor panic attack. I DO NOT like being in front of the camera. I had to do an interview for the behind the scenes extras for our film JUMPING THE BROOM's DVD. I believe I watched it once after the studio sent me a copy of the film.Also, it was an extremely hot day in Milan and my monthly friend had arrived. Grrrrrr. I felt like a Weeble. I thought we were tapping at her house which had AC. Nope, we were also going to walk around Milan.
Despite the Caribbean blood that courses through my veins, I'm not a fan of hot weather. I'd say mid/high 70's (F) is my jam. It's in the mid 90s in Rome now and the sun here is on another level. Seriously.My dress had long sleeves but thanks to Tamu's expert sleeve rolling, I was cool as a cucumber. I bought the La Double J dress to celebrate a new project. Little did I know that my biggest client would be leaving Rome (thanks Trump...literally). No regrets though. Last Thursday evening I wore to the dress to events at Chez Dede and the reopening at Le Méridien. People kept asking me where I got it. It's the perfect dress for a dinner date too. Wait, I don't have any of those coming up. Never mind. Back to the subject at hand, the interview.Tamu broke it up into two parts. In Part I, it seems like I did ALL the talking. Tamu, for time, edited out her questions. In Part II we hear more from Tamu. There are Italian subtitles. We talked about working in Italy and what it's like to be a WOC living here, among other things.I move my hands around a lot. I take after my father's side of the family. They're very expressive.PART IPART III have to thank our glam squad. Just kidding. We didn't have one. Tamu and I did our own makeup.Grazie mille, Tamu!
How pretty are these arrangements from Frida's Flowers?
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Countryhouse
My apologies for the radio silence. Work has been bonkers. One of my clients moved back to the States. She was a high-ranking diplomat and her term was up. We needed to organize a major international move for someone who had lived in Rome for quite some time.My trip to La Bandita was the weekend after her move was finished. The timing was perfect. I was completely wiped out.I've been to the Townhouse and was curious about the Countryhouse after reading about it in design magazines. When Annalee invited me to join her, she didn't have to ask twice.
We met at the Chiusi train station and rented a car. Thankfully, Annalee did most of the driving as the two times I've rented a car in Italy I've received a speeding ticket. I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and drove pretty much every single day. I never received a speeding ticket (or any ticket for that matter). NEVER. I really don't understand why I got tickets in Sicily and Tuscany given I was trying to keep up with the flow of traffic. Sorry, I digress.I keep hearing Tuscany is over. Those people are on drugs. Are there some areas that are packed with tourists? Yes, but Tuscany is a large region. There's no reason to write off the entire area.The Val d'Orcia is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been to in Italy. My next post will be about what we did and where we went.Today, I'm focusing on the interior design. I've seen my share of "Tuscan" interiors. Too often there are extremes, either super modern, stripping all the character out of these older homes or too traditional, creating a space that reminds you of the Addams Family's house.Owners Ondine Cohane and John Voightmann, with their architects Ernesto Bartolini and Arianna Pieri of DA Studio in Florence, have a created a contemporary space that is warm, airy, and feels Tuscan. That last quality is so difficult to get right especially in an era of cookie cutter interior design (in part because every city has the same chain stores). Are there elements of the design that would feel at home in say, Miami or the Caribbean? Absolutely. The La Bandita team worked closely with local artisans and used natural materials found in the area. All these pieces came together to create a space that could only be in Tuscany.This article, written by Ondine, is about the how and why John and Ondine opened the Country House.
Annalee and I stayed in The Pigsty Suite. Yes, this independent apartment (just a few meters from the main house) used to be the pigsty.
My pictures don't do it justice. It was perfection. We had our own little patio. The views from our "backward" were breathtaking. The bathroom was immaculate. I have a thing about cleanliness in general and it's taken to another level regarding kitchens and bathrooms.The bathroom was huge and I loved having a shower next to the big picture window. I felt like I was taking a shower outdoors but without the risk of being attacked by wild boars. Seriously, these darn boars are no joke. Annalee and I went jogging before dinner and other guests told us they saw a family of boars right after they passed us on the road. No grazie.
The check in desk/reception is in the main quasi-open planned room with the kitchen and dining areas. There is a lounge/library area with a great selection of books.
My personal hotel tastes lean toward simple but sophisticated interiors. Some might find the bedrooms too minimalist but for me they let the architecture and views shine. The rooms are relaxing and calm which is what I want in a hotel room.
I can see how this hotel may not work for a solo traveler or anti-social couples as the dining space is communal. Bandita Countryhouse would be perfect for a group to rent the entire space.It's truly off the beaten path so I'm glad we arrived during the day. The unpaved road leading to the property is steep but worth it for the 360 views.
While technically it is a boutique hotel, the vibe at La Bandita Countyhouse is more your friend's very chic country house in Tuscany. I am here for it. The hospitality and food were wonderful. John, Ondine, Dario, Elena, Paola, Marco, and the cat (I didn't catch its name) made us feel at home.I had a great time. So much so that I'm willing to deal with the drama of driving a car in Italy again.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.La Bandita CountryhousePodere La BanditaPienza (SI) 53026Toscana, ItaliaTel +39–333–404–6704Fax +1–212–202–6222website
Life in Rome - Ercoli 1928 Parioli
I have lived in Parioli for a year now and love it. When I told people I was moving from the Historic Center to Parioli, everyone had an opinion (mostly negative)."It's so boring," was one of the main criticisms I heard regarding Parioli. Granted, it's not as exciting as living around the corner from the Drunken Ship but that's okay.There are plenty of great places in this neighborhood to get your aperitivi on and the prices are much lower than the Center. That said, it is a more residential area. There are rarely any tourists and while there are quite a few American and British expats living in Parioli, I seem to bump into them only at the DOC or Carrefour supermarkets.The latest addition to the 'hood is Ercoli 1928 Parioli and I am here for it. I met a friend for an aperitivo during the holidays. The first person I saw when we walked in was Federico Tomasselli, the bar manager and one of the best bartenders in Rome. What a very pleasant surprise! He used to be at Barnum on Via del Pellegrino. I lived on Pellegrino and spent a lot of time at Barnum because of Federico and Patrick (Patrick is now at Caffe Propaganda).My friend and I sat at the bar and loved it. The bar's specialty is Vermouth. My friend said their drink was outstanding. If you don't drink Vermouth, no worries. Ercoli's wine list is deep and they have a solid cocktails list too.I returned with another friend the other week and this time we sat in the front because the bar was still setting up.We ordered glasses of wine and the Italian cheese plate. Outstanding.The service was great and everyone was friendly. Trust me, this is not the norm in Rome where service can range from indifference to outright hostility. Ha.My friend picked up some takeout for her husband. I need to ask her how the meatballs were. The cheese selection is fantastic and will be problematic. I haven't eaten lunch or dinner here yet but have heard very positive reviews about chef Andrea di Raimo's dishes.
There are people don't care how a place looks as long as the drinks are great. I'm not one of those people. For food, it's a different story. There are wonderful restaurants that don't have much of a décor but it's okay because the food is on point. However, when it come to aperitivi/cocktails, atmosphere is also very important to me.
Ercoli Parioli knocks it out of the park. The space is divided into three areas. There's a restaurant, a deli, and the bar/cantina.The architect is Roberto Liorni, who's responsible for several of my favorite restaurant spaces including, Pastificio San Lorenzo a Roma, Rosti, and 'Gusto. The latter opened in 1998 and other restaurants are still "referencing" it. Liorni was also the architect for the film company Cattleya's headquarters. All these places have their own vibe but with his unmistakable DNA, contemporary, chic, yet comfortable.I adore the interior design at Ercoli. It's not trying to be the Roman version of a space in Soho or on Abbot Kinney. It fits the neighborhood and doesn't look like every single restaurant that has opened recently. I love the plaid...an unexpected touch.
I finished the cheese I bought. I'm trying to avoid Ercoli this week. I don't think I will be successful.
Life in Rome - The Artemisia Gentileschi Exhibit
Buon Anno!Man, am I happy to see 2017. I'm really looking forward to this year, despite all the craziness in the world. I have no control over these many complicated political and social issues but I can control how I react to them.There's a lot of ugliness and hatred in this world. I'm going to focus on the beauty and love. I know that sounds very Pollyanna. However, I strongly believe that those of us who work in creative fields and/or appreciate creative endeavors need to push back. Dostoyevsky wrote, "Beauty will save the world." I agree.If you're in Rome or plan to visit before May 7th, I highly recommend the “Artemisia Gentileschi and Her Time,” exhibit at the Museum of Rome in Palazzo Braschi. It's outstanding.Much has been written about the struggles of Gentileschi (1593-1653). This exhibit doesn't downplay them but focuses on her art and how the times influenced it. There are over one hundred paintings. Most are by Gentileschi with a few from her contemporaries.Gentileschi was the daughter of the painter Orazio and was heavily influenced by Caravaggio. She was the first woman to be admitted to the prestigious Accademia del Arte di Disegno in Florence.The population in Rome was two-thirds male when Gentileschi was growing up. It was very dangerous for a woman to be even be outside. Her mother died when she was twelve and she was raped by the painter her father hired to tutor her when she was seventeen. Her father had to hire a tutor because at the time women were denied access to the art academies. During the humiliating trial, Gentileschi was tortured and her family's reputation questioned. Her accuser (who had raped his wife, his sister-in-law, and tried to steal paintings from Orazio) was sentenced to a year in jail. His verdict was annulled.Gentileschi rejected the stereotypical female roles of the Early Baroque era and painted women who were powerful, mythical.The exhibit is categorized by city. You can see the influence living in Rome, Florence, Venice, London, and Naples (where she died, perhaps from the Plague) had on Gentileschi's work. After her death, Gentileschi's work was often attributed to her father or other artists.The exhibit is well organized (I know. Shocking). There are informative introductions (in Italian and English) to each period of her work.I saw her most famous work, Judith Slaying Holofernes, at the Ufizzi when I visited Florence a few years before I moved to Italy. She painted two versions and the other one is in Naples at Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte. 
There many paintings of this biblical story (including one by Caravaggio himself). It's fascinating to compare her interpretation to that of her male peers.I don't know if it was the setting (a smaller room, less chaotic that the Ufizzi), post USA election stress, or what, but this time the painting unnerved me. I didn't want to look at it but I couldn't turn away. There was a woman next to me tearing up. It's truly a powerful, visceral, beautiful, work of art. My god the colors. The physicality. Gentileschi painted herself as Judith and her accuser as Holofernes. I didn't know the details of her trial then but even those who have no knowledge of Gentileschi's backstory, can see and feel the unadulterated rage.Moving on from that uplifting note, Palazzo Braschi is a striking venue located in Piazza Navona. During the weekends there was quite a line. It might be less crowded now that the exhibit has been running for a few weeks. Museum of Rome, Palazzo BraschiUntil May 7th, 2017Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 7pm
Guest Post - Studying Abroad in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,This is the last post from our intern, Ariella. I asked her to write about her overall experience studying in Rome. It was a pleasure to work with Ariella and we wish her the best as she continues her studies at Cornell University.I have spent the last four and a half months exploring Rome. I've immersed myself in a new culture, started to learn a new language, admired the art and architecture of this amazing city that continues to create history, and meandered through its confusing yet welcoming streets.The illusions and expectations of studying and living abroad in Rome were surpassed by the realities of my temporary new home. The only real challenge seemed to be the difference in the food markets, which I quickly understood. How fun and interesting to be able to select and purchase food that looked real and smelled as it should. The shadows of dust and dirt reminded me of where the food actually came from, as opposed to very manicured and polished plastic packages of foods that all looked the same and had no aroma.Stopping at every cafe along the way as I discovered my neighborhood and others I explored, I found my comfort zone. While homesick for family and friends for a short first week, I'm now faced with the fear of returning as I know I will long for the place I will be leaving behind. I suppose it's good to leave with the feeling of wanting to return as my mission feels unfinished. I fantasize about returning for an extended period of time and can even imagine living here in the future.Rome has surpassed my expectations and has given me much to think about. I have enjoyed the people, the culture and lifestyle, and the way one moves through this city. It has been so interesting to see how such an old city with all its monuments and history has been able to have continuity despite the politics and introduction of globalization. This is evident by all the current problems of immigration, unemployment, housing, circulation etc. It's obvious that to preserve and yet become a place where the locals and visitors can enjoy this eternal city, introducing and maintaining infrastructure in the existing urban fabric has been quite a challenge.It has been a privilege to live and learn in this setting with Rome’s varied colors as they age and as the sun rises and sets through the changing seasons, giving us different perspectives of an everlasting place.
Before & After - Via Banchi Vecchi Project
Ciao Bloggisti,Earlier I wrote about the Via Monserrato project. One of the other apartments we worked on was located two blocks away on Via Banchi Vecchi. It was a new apartment for our client.The apartment was empty so we didn't have the same logistical issues but two bathrooms, and the kitchen had to be renovated. Any time you start opening walls you will have some surprises, especially in a building that's over three hundred years old.The brief from the client stated that the unique original flooring and the red tiles in the kitchen could not be replaced. The floors weren't in great shape but I like to think of them as adding character. The client wanted to improve the layout, add a closet in the bedroom, lighten up the very dark kitchen, and make the second bathroom more functional.The bulk of the budget went to the renovation. Some of the furniture came from the other apartments. We bought a mix of high-end hardware/fixtures along with budget friendly pieces.The minute the client stated that they had to change the layout, we called an architect. Fortunately, Domenico Minchilli and his studio took on the project. Square footage wise it was a lot smaller than their usual projects but it was complicated. We had worked together before which made the renovation process, never easy, smoother.BEFORE - The Kitchen
True, this is not a primary residence but I don't think any guest would want to spend a lot of time in here. It was impossible to get a decent shot of this dark, cramped space. The hallway before. The kitchen is behind the wall on the right.
There were structural issues that had to be addressed (electrical, ventilation) so a upgrade/renovation had to happen.
Originally, we discussed opening just one of the walls. Studio Minchilli suggested removing all them so you could see the entire arch as you walked into the apartment.AFTER
What a difference. It's light and there's plenty of space to move around. The cabinets are from IKEA but the counter top is quartz from Stone Italiana. We decided to spend more for a higher quality counter top given the open plan design. It elevates the entire space, making the IKEA cabinets look more expensive.My anxiety level was not good the morning of this installation. A heavy slab, cut to order. Three men had to carry it. 
The light fixture is custom. Il Paralume.
We also installed LED lights on the right.
BEFORE - Master Bathroom
There were dated, inexpensive white tiles on the floor. AFTER
The tub was replaced with a shower. 
We decided to go with a combination bidet and toilet, which is great for small spaces. The client wanted a unique sink. We ordered these (which were quite heavy, our poor contractor) and asked our blacksmith to build the bases.Notice, we didn't put tiles on the walls. Similar to the Tuscany Project, we wanted the bathrooms to feel more like a room and less clinical. For a busy family bathroom this option could be impractical but I really like how these rooms feel without tiled walls.The design of the new tiles mimics the original tiled floors in the rest of the apartment. While these colors look great together, installing three colors is a different story. Complicated.
The tiles, sink, and all hardware were purchased at LOZZI.The sconces are custom. Il Paralume.Paint is a custom color from Crown.In the bedroom we added a pocket door, a built-in closet, and the lampshades are custom from Il Paralume.
Our carpenter also created a desk in the corner.
BEFORE - Second bathroom.Extremely tight space, dated tiles. The layout was terrible and the room very dark.
AFTERWe completely changed the layout. We moved the entrance which enabled us to add space for a proper shower.The door is custom made by our carpenter. Door fixtures are from Handles.
Here's a better shot of the sink with the custom iron base. As with the other bathroom, we bought a combination bidet and toilet.
BEFORE - Living Room
AFTER - Living Room
The fantastic artwork is from Due Alberi. They're based in Rome but ship internationally.Our carpenter added new closets.The dining table is from MADE and the chairs belong to the client.
The side table came from the Via Monserrato apartment. We found the lamp at Leroy Merlin (the French version of Home Depot).
The client found the credenza online. The lamps were a great find at Leroy Merlin. We were so tired and hungry. My client was worried about my mental health as we had just spent hours at the IKEA next door. I perked up when I saw the lamps on a bottom shelf. I was so excited. It was like meeting Idris Elba.
Overall, the apartment feels lighter despite the lack of light (the windows are tiny). The renovated kitchen and bathrooms compliment the style and architecture of the apartment. We updated them but without losing the charm.We kept the palette very simple, creamy whites, grey, black, with a touch of red. The ceiling seems higher and apartment looks/feels bigger.For more information about this vacation rental, please check out Your Suite Rome on Booking.com.Architect: Domenico MinchilliAfter Photos: Vincenzo Tambasco
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Contemporary Art in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from Ariella:Over the past few months I have explored art in Rome from a historical point of view, as well as its current and future purpose. While Rome is known for masterpieces by some of the world's greatest artists such as Michaelangelo, Caravaggio, and many others; the city has a vibrant contemporary art culture as well.Art and architecture in Rome is always present. We travel though it everyday, sit in its' spaces, it creates views and vistas and reminds us of the past while providing the setting for the future.Rome functions like a gallery. We circulated much in the same way we travel through a space designed for art. The city has made a concerted effort to integrate contemporary art and modern life with the construction of new museums. These spaces house newer collections and also facilitate the experience of promoting the collaboration between art, architecture, and everyday life.The challenge of the newer buildings and space is not to interfere or interrupt "historic" Rome but rather to blend in. These new spaces have attracted many visitors and artists to the city. Artists come to Rome from all over the world seeking inspiration while many born and raised in Rome have also flourished as artists.Every week for the past few months, I have visited a new contemporary art museum, gallery, studio, or installation and I've been able to learn from the historical cultural wealth of the Rome as well as from the current vibrant scene.My past impressions of contemporary art were of paintings and pieces that were difficult to relate to, very conceptual. Contemporary art is always evolving and now quite a few artists have returned to figurative painting/works.The collaboration reflected in exhibits, events, and installations have shaped the contemporary art world in Rome.I asked Ariella for a list of some of her favorite contemporary art museums and galleries.Museums:MACROMAXXI 
Galleries:Anna Marra ContemporaneaT293Galleria VarsiGalleria Valentina BonomoI'm adding one of my favorites to her list, Galleria Lorcan O'Neill. Ariella mentioned two other spaces. They're not galleries or museums but display contemporary art.MOMA Hostel - a hostel run by artists.MAAM - this space has living quarters for homeless families. The families live with the art. When Ariella went to visit, one of the pieces had a dent in it because the children used it as a soccer/football goal post. I went to a street art exhibit there and thought it was one of the most interesting venues for art in Rome.
Life in Rome - Day Trip to Spoleto
Ciao Bloggisti,Friends of mine recently bought a weekend place in Spoleto and invited me up for a day. It's about forty miles south east of Perugia.It was my first trip to Spoleto and I highly recommend a visit. The Historic Center is very charming with incredible views. I took a lot of photos. Below are a few.Ponte delle Torri - a 13th century aqueduct.One of the highlights for me. Next time I will bring a pair of sneakers or hiking shoes so I could walk further up the trail.
The Duomo - Santa Maria Assunta
More pictures of the Historic Center.
Basilica di Santa Gregorio Maggiore - consecrated in 1146.
Note: This is not a politics blog but the US election last week was not normal.The President Elect would like to commute to the White House, staying mostly in Trump Tower. I was not aware that being President of the most powerful country on the planet was a part-time gig. This would create a major logistical nightmare for the Secret Service and the NYPD. It would also be a headache for residents of the building and the surrounding area as blocks of a major street (5th Avenue) would have to be shut down.There's a silver lining. Trump may not have time or the desire to redecorate the White House. I was thinking of writing a separate post about this space:
SpoletoPhotos: Me and my iPhone Trump Living Room: iDesignArch