Art and Architecture with Ariella - Contemporary Art in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from Ariella:Over the past few months I have explored art in Rome from a historical point of view, as well as its current and future purpose. While Rome is known for masterpieces by some of the world's greatest artists such as Michaelangelo, Caravaggio, and many others; the city has a vibrant contemporary art culture as well.Art and architecture in Rome is always present. We travel though it everyday, sit in its' spaces, it creates views and vistas and reminds us of the past while providing the setting for the future.Rome functions like a gallery. We circulated much in the same way we travel through a space designed for art. The city has made a concerted effort to integrate contemporary art and modern life with the construction of new museums. These spaces house newer collections and also facilitate the experience of promoting the collaboration between art, architecture, and everyday life.The challenge of the newer buildings and space is not to interfere or interrupt "historic" Rome but rather to blend in. These new spaces have attracted many visitors and artists to the city. Artists come to Rome from all over the world seeking inspiration while many born and raised in Rome have also flourished as artists.Every week for the past few months, I have visited a new contemporary art museum, gallery, studio, or installation and I've been able to learn from the historical cultural wealth of the Rome as well as from the current vibrant scene.My past impressions of contemporary art were of paintings and pieces that were difficult to relate to, very conceptual. Contemporary art is always evolving and now quite a few artists have returned to figurative painting/works.The collaboration reflected in exhibits, events, and installations have shaped the contemporary art world in Rome.I asked Ariella for a list of some of her favorite contemporary art museums and galleries.Museums:MACROMAXXI 
Galleries:Anna Marra ContemporaneaT293Galleria VarsiGalleria Valentina BonomoI'm adding one of my favorites to her list, Galleria Lorcan O'Neill. Ariella mentioned two other spaces. They're not galleries or museums but display contemporary art.MOMA Hostel - a hostel run by artists.MAAM - this space has living quarters for homeless families. The families live with the art. When Ariella went to visit, one of the pieces had a dent in it because the children used it as a soccer/football goal post. I went to a street art exhibit there and thought it was one of the most interesting venues for art in Rome.
Life in Rome - Villa Farnesina
Ciao Bloggisti,Villa Farnesina has been on my "need to visit" list for quite some time. One rainy afternoon, I decided to schlep across town. It was worth the trip.This villa is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture. In 1509, the wealthy banker Sienese Agostino Chigi commissioned architect Baldassarre Peruzzi (who was known mostly for his paintings) to build a villa for him in the country. The villa is located just across the river in Trastevere. Back in the day, Trastevere was considered the country as it was outside the city walls. Chigi was well connected and ran in some very rarefied circles. The location was perfect for him. He was close enough to the city for business and far enough away to build a grand space to entertain his friends, which included the Pope, with lavish banquets. Chigi, while a great host, was also a huge patron of the arts.Rumor has it that Villa Farnesina was built over the ruins of the villa where Cleopatra met her lover Mark Antony for sexy times. When construction began, Chigi was in love with the infamous courtesan Imperia (supposedly she was the first woman to be called as such) but his second mistress, and later wife, Andreosia lived in the home. It's not a surprise that the theme running through the villa is love.Imperia was close to, and perhaps the lover of, the great artist Raphael. She was the model for several of the frescoes in the villa. Other painters along with Raphael and Peruzzi were, Sebastiano del Piombo, Giovanni da Udine, Giovanni Bazzi, Giulio Romano, and Giovan Francesco Penni.In 1577 the Farnese family bought Villa Farnesina. It was given this name to set it apart from the villa they owned across the river in Piazza Farnese.I hope return to Villa Farnesina during a sunny day and soak it all in. It's beautiful.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Snack Chat - A Summer Treat with Nathan Turner
I saw on Instagram that Nathan Turner was shooting an online series for The Design Network.What a fun idea. Nathan is a very talented interior designer but he's also known for being quite the host.For this series, he has invited several of his design friends to cook a little something, something in the kitchen. Nathan's enthusiasm is infectious.I met him, briefly, at his shop (a must if you're in Los Angeles) during Kathryn M. Ireland's design workshop and he couldn't have been lovelier.There are six episodes (he's currently shooting the second season). I thought this Banana Berry Trifle dish he made with Mary McDonald was the perfect summer dish.
I want to make this. I may need to wait until my friends return to Rome though. I can't eat this whole thing by myself.Speaking of Rome, it's Ferragosto time. No trips to Sicily or the Caribbean for me this summer, tears! However, there are some very excited things happening here and I cannot wait to share more in September.Buone Vacanze a tutti!
Life in Rome - Aperitivi at the Beach
Ciao Bloggisti,How's the summer treating you so far?As I wrote in my previous post, I'm trying to improve my attitude and to be more social. My friend Courtney and I had plans to meet for aperitivi on Saturday. Instead of dealing with crowds in the Historic Center on a hot Saturday evening, I suggested we go to the beach. We went to Singita in Fregene. It was fantastic!Sometimes we forget that Rome is so close to the sea. By going for aperitivi instead of lunch or dinner, we would miss beach traffic in both directions.It was just what the doctor ordered. Nice breeze, great drinks, and a beautiful sunset. We started out with non-alcoholic drinks and then switched to a mojito. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone.
I'm Going to Check Myself Before I Wreck Myself - Summer 2016
Ciao Blogglisti,How are you doing?I wrote a post few months ago about being in a major funk after my trip to Milan. While Rome and I never got into fisticuffs, the situation was critical.Late last week, I stopped by a vendor I haven't seen since moving out of the Center. She told me that my Italian had really improved. I thought about her comment. I was constantly beating myself up for not being fluent, instead of remembering that I'm getting better. I seem to be focusing on the negative a lot lately.Yesterday was the first day of summer. I am determined not to spend yet another season salty with city I live in. I'm not the biggest kumbaya person. You will not find me on the top of Gianicolo Hill doing this:[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R462Ro5fqU?rel=0&w=420&h=315]I do know that walking around, as the youngins would say, with a stank attitude is not going to make things better. I will try to see this city with fresh eyes, be more social, and maybe cut back on political news.
Io Adoro - E' Stile Bookstore
I'm still getting to know my neighborhood. One Sunday morning, I jogged past an interesting store window and made a mental note to check it out.Oh man, this place is going to be an issue. E' Stile is a concept bookstore focusing on art, fashion, and interior design/architecture.They have a GREAT book selection. I do order from Amazon sometimes, especially English language books but nothing beats going to an actual bookstore. Yes, it's more expensive. However, I believe it's important to support small shop owners. I like to browse and speak with the salespeople about the books. You can't duplicate that experience with online shopping.E' Stile also carries Chez Dede bags, products from brands like Kartell and Alessi, and there's a gallery space downstairs.
Photos: Me and my iPhoneE' Stile BookstoreVia Chiana, 15+ 39 06 8555337
Project Via Monserrato - Reveal
During the past year I've been working on a decorating and renovation project in the Historic Center for a client who wanted to update a few of their B&Bs.It was a great experience. At times it was also challenging, as the apartments were fully booked months in advance. The logistics were difficult.Located inside a palazzo that dates from the 1600s The Via Monserrato apartment (aka Grand Suite), is on one of the prettiest streets in Rome.The brief was to create a contemporary décor, while at the same time retaining (and respecting) the charm and history of the architecture.Vacation rentals are tricky. You don't want a design that is bland or cookie-cutter but it cannot have so much personality that it turns off most customers.Here's a photo from the living room, before.
After 
This room is a mix of high and low vendors, antiques (that belong to the client), and custom pieces.The room is light, stylish, yet comfortable. We had to use fabrics and colors that could handle a lot of wear and tear.The walls were changed to Farrow & Ball's "Blackened", a cool white that reads light grey. I know I talk a lot about this brand but there's a reason I have used it in every single project I've worked on. The quality of this paint is no joke and depth of color is incredible. This was the first time the painters had worked with Farrow & Ball and they were very impressed. When people who paint for a living rave about a brand, you know it's good. Stateside, I like Benjamin Moore as well but that brand is not sold here. Le Decorazioni is the authorized Fallow & Ball vendor in Rome.We decided to go with a one L shaped sofa instead two. This model is a sleeper sofa and we bought it from Berto Salotto.The coffee table is from Maisons du Monde, a French brand with stores all over Europe.The curtains were custom made. The trim is Dedar. All the fabric for the apartment was selected and purchased at the store Lelli.The floor lamps are from MADE.The art work over the antique buffet is by Due Alberi. Funny that I read about these two artists in Rome on Elements of Style, which is written by Boston-based American interior designer Erin Gates. We used their work in another apartment (pics soon) as well.We commissioned artist Marta Alexandra Abbott to create pieces that referenced Rome in a subtle way. Marta is American and moved to Rome several years ago. You can see more of this series, inspired by the Ara Pacis, HERE.Dining area.
We kept the dining table and reupholstered the dining chairs.Before
After
This graphic Dedar fabric is durable and makes the 1930 lines of the chair stand out. The chairs were in great shape. I thought it would be better for the budget and the design to keep them. I'm not a fan of spaces where every single item is brand new. I like to mix things up. You see that a lot in interiors in France and Italy. If you don't have any older pieces of your own, you can find them at flea markets, estates sales, in your family's attics/basements, etc.We created a window seat. I wasn't sure my client would go for the pattern or the color. The fabric is Thibaut. I think it gives this room of neutrals a nice punch of color.The pillow are from a local shop, Fabindia.The former artwork in the living room.
Art work, after.
The hallway was painted white and the huge 1980s sconces were replaced with simple, modern ones. This art is by Marta as well.
Bedroom - before
After
Originally, there was a queen-sized bed in this room but my client's company has had many requests for twin beds.The walls are Farrow & Ball, "James White". The curtains are custom. The fabric is Thom Filicia for Kravet.I asked my blacksmith to make the head boards. I wanted something that would look great when together and when separate. We came up with a few designs and this is the one the client picked.The night stands are from Maisons du Monde. The lamp bases are from IKEA. The shades were custom made at the store Paralume, which is right up the street.I'm not sure how a store that makes/sells lampshades manages to stay in business in this global economy we live in but I hope they stick around for a long time.The beds together.
The master bedroom - before
After
We kept the bedside tables. The walls are F&B James White. The curtain fabric is Malabar.The lamp bases are IKEA, shades custom from Paralume. It's hard to tell from the photo but these shades/trim are a different color from the other bedroom.I have a thing about four poster/canopy beds. Our blacksmith designed this simple yet, elegant frame. With these ceilings, we thought a more decorative frame would be too much. It interesting how the room actually looks bigger even though this bed is the same width as the old one.Two photos from inside the Palazzo.
Overall, I'm very happy with how the apartment turned out. A huge, "Grazie" to my client and their team. I cannot tell you the amount of WhatsApps, SMS, emails, phone calls, job site visits, that were made. I truly appreciate their patience with my bizarre smash up of Italian and English. My client introduced me to my new Italian teacher. I got the hint. Heh.For more information about renting the Grand Suite, or other apartments from Your Suite Rome, click here.After photos and before of bedroom 1: Vincenzo TambascoOther photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps
For almost eight years I walked past Palazzo Altemps at least five times a week. I'm not sure why I waited so long to finally check it out.One Friday, during lunch time, I basically had the place to myself. True, it was the dead of winter but I was surprised.The Palazzo is very close to Piazza Navona and was built during the 1500s. Archaeologists have uncovered ancient Roman structures and artifacts from the 1st century AD, which are displayed on the first floor.Cardinal Marcus Sitticus Altemps acquired the palazzo from the Riario family in 1568. He greatly extended the palazzo to showcase the family's impressive art and and book collections. There are also many standout pieces from the Boncompagni Ludovisi, Mattei, del Drago Albani, and Brancaccio collectionsThis museum is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano which also includes the Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, and Terme di Diocleziano.There is free admission to the museums on the first Sunday of the month.Below are a few pictures I snapped during my tour: 
Palazzo Altemps is opened Tuesday - Sunday from 9.00 to 19.45.Closed Mondays (except Easter Monday and during the "Culture Week"), 1 January, 25 December.The Ticket Office closes one hour before closing time.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Work in Progress - My Foyer
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have lived with white walls for decades. The last time I had any color on the walls was when my parents let me pick the color for my bedroom back in high school.During my apartment search, I knew I wanted a place with a foyer/ingresso. Even my super tiny apartment on Via Pellegrino had one. Both of my apartments in Los Angeles, which were much larger, did not. Drove me nuts. You opened the door and walked right into the living room. Of course this is fine for a loft apartment but I didn't live in a loft.Many people neglect their foyer. It becomes a place to dump keys, magazines, mail, etc., etc. The foyer is the preview for the rest of your home. It sets the atmosphere. What does it say as you enter?Depending on the size of your foyer, it could provide much needed storage space, a place to display artwork, and in a smaller one you could splurge (creatively and/or financially) on your favorite wallpaper.Painting an entrance way a darker color than the next room makes the second room seem much larger. Interior designer Miles Redd loves going from dark to light. I decided to be bold for a change and go for it. I went to the store Le Decorazioni to look at Farrow & Ball samples.I'm so happy with how the foyer turned out. I'm relieved my landlady (who lives in the same building) loved it. I thought she might be offended since she'd just painted the apartment. Instead she asked me to send me a link to the Farrow & Ball website.
I was thinking of going with Hague Blue but in the end Stiffkey was best with the light grey in the living room. Stiffkey looks great when the lights are on and in natural light it reminds me of late summer nights in Sicily or sitting on my parents' veranda at dusk in St. Martin.When I first saw the apartment the owner told me the bookcase/cabinet in the hallway had to stay. I understood why for practical reasons. The fact that it wasn't flush with the wall bothered me aesthetically. 
What a difference some high-quality paint makes. The painters and I couldn't believe how this big piece of furniture blends in a little more and looks more expensive than it is.
I'm going to meet with my blacksmith to design a simple bench. Above the bench I will hang some black and white photographs.I don't know when that will happen. I tell clients all the time that it's better to take our time while decorating. Perhaps I should listen to my own advice.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome – Rome Luxury Suites, Via Babuino
Buon giorno!Life has been nuts these past few weeks between signing new clients and moving. I still have twenty-five boxes of books and magazines to unpack.I hope to publish a post on this blog the first and third Wednesday of the month, at least. I need get it on a schedule or else it will end up like Jeb!’s presidential campaign. Seriously, what’s happening there? He must be very annoyed. This is one of most unusual American presidential races I've ever seen, but I digress.While Rome is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, finding a hotel here can be tricky especially once you get out of the five-star range.I tend to prefer smaller boutique hotels, so I was excited to check out Rome Luxury Suites on Via Babuino. I was invited, along with a few other guests, to tour the hotel followed by an aperitivi on the new rooftop. You know how I feel about terraces, more on that later.The location couldn’t be better. Via Babuino is in the Trident area, close to the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. The sidewalks were recently widened. During the day there's a lot of pedestrian traffic as this street is a popular high-end shopping destination. At night, it’s quiet. There are no bars, or clubs.The hotel has twenty-four rooms. They are stylishly decorated without being too “done”. On some floors it’s possible to connect rooms, creating a private suite. Perfect for a family.This is a great place for someone who likes the idea of renting an apartment but would like the services of a hotel (concierge).One of my favorite rooms was the Babuino Suite which has its own balcony.
Now back to the roof terrace. It’s available for guests only. This was my favorite part of the hotel. I know that’s not logical but what can I say? I love a good roof terrace.For more about the hotel (they have two other locations in the neighborhood) you can check out their website HERE.
Life in Rome - New Year, New Address
I would say Happy New Year, but it’s already January 21th.After living in the Historic Center on Via del Pellegrino for seven years, I have moved to a new neighborhood. I now live in Parioli.To say this is a big change would be an understatement.One of the biggest changes was moving from a furnished apartment to an unfurnished one. I was very fortunate that my former landlady had a great eye but I’m excited to finally have my own furniture.Finding an apartment that was unfurnished was not easy. Smaller apartments tend to be furnished and in Italy/France if your place is unfurnished it usually means you have to buy a kitchen as well. I didn’t have the time or the budget to build a kitchen.I lucked out in finding a place that was semi-furnished; meaning the kitchen was already installed.I’m still getting settled. I have no Internet. Who knows when it will be installed? Could be next week, could be next month. I’m zen about the whole thing as I realized flipping out on Vodafone would not make things move faster.For over twenty-five years, I have lived in homes with white walls. I decided to get out of my comfort zone and paint my front hallway a dark blue. Here some pictures that inspired me to get my Steven Gambrel on.A sea of blue in Mr. Gambrel's West Tenth Street townhouse.
A deep blue foyer in Paris.
Jeannette Whitson's library which created quite a decorating stir.
I went with Farrow & Ball’s Stiffkey Blue.
I will post some pictures as it comes together. Who knows when it will be done? Story of my life.
Buone Feste!
Wait a minute. How is it Christmas Eve already?!It's a miracle that I'm still alive to write this short post. The farmer market was madness this morning. I was there at 7:45 a.m. and the nonne were out in force. One nonna and I almost got into fisticuffs over tortellini.The past few weeks have been pretty crazy at work so I haven't been as Christmasy as I would like. I'm going to start right now (better late than never) with a favorite.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwacxSnc4tII hope your holidays are wonderful.
Life in Rome - Where to go for Cocktails
The wonderful women at Italy Casa Mia asked me to write a guest post about where to have delicious cocktails in Rome. It was hard work, very difficult research.
Photo: Gina Tringali However, somehow I was able to complete this assignment.Quite a bit of ink has been spilled recenty regarding how the cocktail scene has improved in Rome. I don’t know what it was like before but I agree that yes, it is possible to have a cocktail in Rome. Anyone who tells you that the only thing to drink is wine or an Aperol Spritz (not that there’s anything wrong with either of them) is incorrect.While a great bartender (or mixologist as they’re called today) is key, the atmosphere is just as important. There are some spots where the drinks are good but I cannot get into the vibe and/or décor.Of course this list is very subjective. Below are the places my friends and I tend to go to time and time again. Not on the list are a few bars some of my younger friends love. To paraphrase Lethal Weapon, “I’m too old for that foolishness.” This is a grown folks list.First up, in alphabetical order, the hotel bars. I’ve heard that back in the day (perhaps 2003?) the best chance for a decent cocktail was at a hotel bar but the prices tend to be higher.
DOM
This hotel opened two years ago on the gorgeous Via Giulia. A former convent, the tiny downstairs bar is seriously sexy with its dark greys. They make a great French 75. In warmer months, head upstairs to the lovely rooftop terrace. Note: On weekend nights, the bar gets very crowded. There’s usually a line (and a list) to get in.To read the rest of my list, click HERE. Buon drinking!
Self-Promotion - How do it Without Alienating Everyone?
Yes, the title is a question not a statement. This is a road my entrepreneur/freelancing friends and I are trying to navigate.I was thinking about this while walking home after meeting up with some girlfriends.
They are a dynamic group of women.However, one thing I have noticed time and time again (especially when I worked in Hollywood) is that so many of my female friends tend to downplay their success. They say they're lucky or get embarrassed when talking about their accomplishments. Meanwhile, my male friends and colleagues would proudly discuss their success and many would take credit for things they didn't even do.Perhaps there is a fine line between bragging and just stating the facts. What is it?Is being too humble holding us back? I'm not saying we need to go to a Trumpian level of bloviating but the constant self-deprecating, aww shucks thing needs to stop.Even my friends who were born with a sliver platter, hustle. True, their family's influence helped them get in the door but they stay in the room because they're great at what they do. Luck is only a small part of their success.Recently, the very talented Felicia Sullivan asked me to be part of a series she's writing on successful female entrepreneurs. At first, I wondered why would she want to interview me. My friend Erica knocked some sense into me and I did the interview. Then she told me I had to Tweet about it a few times over the next few months. I haven't. Why not?The fact that there's a popular hastag called #humblebrag speaks volumes. Why be passive aggressive? A agent friend in Hollywood told me that there's nothing wrong with with tooting your own horn as long as you also toot the horn of others. Nobody wants to see or read a feed that is me, me, me, 24/7.When I think about the self-promotion that turns me off, it's because the person only talks about themselves. Always.So I say go ahead and tell the world about the great things you're doing. How will people know unless you have a publicist? Maybe some people won't think these things are that great, special, or interesting. That's okay. It's something you're proud of.I'm going to work on my own self-deprecating responses. I now know I won't succeed if I only dwell on negative things or what I haven't accomplished yet in my career. As 2015 draws to a close, I am thinking long and hard regarding how speak about my work and my business.And yes, I'm going to retweet this interview:When I first visited Rome in 2008, Arlene took me to the most incredible Italian restaurant–one I would never have found on a map. We were introduced by a woman who was interested in adapting my memoir for film. Although the project fell through, I’m thankful for having met Arlene and for our long-distance friendship since, punctuated by my occasional visits to Italy.I admire Arlene deeply, embarrassingly so. She left a job, country, and life in pursuit of something other. She wasn’t tethered to age as a means of trapping one in one’s vocation, rather she set out to find her place in the world. Up until a few months ago she was a successful writer/producer and now tell stories in another form: interiors. I love women with verve, women who take risks, break ranks, and live without apology. Arlene is all of these things, but in the end she’s a truth-teller. I only hope to be as successful as I move through my acts. Let her story inspire you. –FSWhen I first met you, you’d recently emigrated to Rome from the U.S. Truth be told, I admired you, how brave you were to leave a successful career behind for something other. This was a time before we’d read articles about expats and second acts. Your career has spanned politics, film and entertainment—but tell us how you returned to your first love: decorating. Why did you leave producing behind?Arlene Gibbs: What timing. Until two months ago, I had two careers going on, screenwriter/producer, and decorator.When we first met, I was writing full-time and developing a few projects as a producer. Everyone told me it would be impossible to be a screenwriter/producer based in Rome (especially without a trust fund). Even after our movie Jumping The Broom was released, and importantly was a hit, I heard the same thing. Nothing changed. Nobody cared. It was a “niche” film. When I pointed out to a producer friend that there were plenty of successful British screenwriters who worked in Hollywood but lived in London, I was told, “Yes, but they are British, white, and male.”To your last question, it took me forever to see the light. Earlier this summer, one of my dear friends, who lives in Rome, said that the universe was screaming at me and I was ignoring the signs. This friend is usually not that crunchy. I needed to heed her advice.Then I read this quote from JJ Martin, an American fashion and design journalist who lives in Milan, and everything clicked.
The best advice I’ve ever received was to look at everything that comes your way as an opportunity. Do not underestimate the power of chance and fate. Do what you love, what opens you up, not what closes you down, and makes you act like an asshole. Be responsible, be loving, be caring. That’s what I advise to anyone starting out. If you truly love fashion, it will come to you.
She’s talking about fashion but it could be applied to any creative endeavor. I wasn’t an asshole when I worked in Hollywood, my former assistants still speak to me, but I was not myself. I became a very bitter person.I was recently hired for a decorating project in Los Angeles. It was my first trip back since making my big decision. It was a great experience. I returned to Rome feeling positive instead of depressed.The rest of the interview is HERE.Thanks again, Felicia!
Life in Rome - This Time I am Ready for Ferragosto
First, I've just returned to Rome from a business trip to the States and the Caribbean. Below are some random observations:Los Angeles traffic continues to get worse. How is this possible.Target is great.J.Crew. What is happening? I've been a fan since the 80s. Something is amiss.Why is Ben and Jennifer's former nanny in the press so much? What is her end game? Reality show?Speaking of reality shows, what the heck is Hollywood Cycle?Ina Garten. Adore.Guy Fieri. Why so many shows, Food Network? Why?!My friend Erica posted this TIME magazine article that said Americans dressing like slobs equals freedom. Perhaps I have lived in Italy too long or I am turning into my Caribbean parents because I think that's absolutely ridiculous. Freedom? From what? The tyranny of Dior?The GOP debate. Fascinating. Trump was peak Trump.The flight attendants on Air France were very friendly and cheerful. It's a long flight from St. Martin to Paris (8.5 hours). Meanwhile, the American Airline attendants on the Miami to St. Martin flight (only 3 hours) not so much. Why?Portions in America are too big. I couldn't finish a single meal.The newish Restoration Hardware showroom in West Hollywood is odd. I don't get it. Is it just for the trade? Who thought it was a good idea to have a 40,000 sq ft store where you have to buy everything online or from the catalog? The scale is huge. How can any shopper, who doesn't live in a castle, envision that massive furniture in their home?It would never occur to me to combine these two things:
Second, in the past I have written about my Ferragosto issues. Despite living in Italy for seven years, I was very American when it come to vacations and/or taking a break from work.I said, "was" not "am." Finally, this year I get it. I cannot wait for August 15th. Truly.My trip was intense. I recently signed a Los Angeles based client and flew to Los Angeles direct from Rome. I have NEVER in my life been so happy to sit in a freezing cold plane for a thirteen-hour flight. The six week heatwave in Rome was warping my brain. There were rumblings about Alitalia striking that weekend. Thankfully, they didn't and I got an upgrade to Business Class. Nice.That upgrade made a huge difference. I had horrible jet leg during my trip to Los Angeles back in May. This time it was much better. I think it also helped that I walked to the Century City Mall shortly after arriving and stayed up until 10.30 p.m.While I was running around Los Angeles with my client, I had deliveries and construction happening in Rome for another client. Given the nine hour time difference, things were a little hectic. I was only in Los Angeles for a few days and on my client's schedule so I didn't see many friends or "do meetings".Then I fly to Miami. It was my first trip to the city. I need to return and see more of it. I really liked the vibe. I stayed at the Viceroy which was fantastic.Unfortunately, the design district is shrinking after LVHM bought out several blocks. It was still a productive trip. I sourced some great items for my Anguilla project.From Miami I flew to St. Martin. I said hello to my parents, and the next day took the ferry to Anguilla.After all the flying, unpacking, repacking, shopping, meeting with contractors, painters, carpenters, project managers, receiving texts from clients in Rome about things we need to do ASAP, etc. etc., I hit the wall on Saturday.While packing (again) I watch Flipping Out. Can we talk about this show? I have so many questions. I wish Bravo aired in Italy.I'm not complaining but a very strange thing happened during this trip. I do not feel guilty about looking forward to August 15th. Not one bit.Of course I'm not going completely cold turkey. There are quite a few back office things I need take care of during the break and meetings I must attend.I bought a stack of shelter magazines in the States and the book The Bee Cottage Story. I'm going to cut way back from the Internet and chill. I know September is going to be off the charts busy. Everyone returns to town and I'm looking for a new apartment. The latter will be an interesting process.I may not be able to Dolce Far Niente for two weeks but can try for at least two days. To prepare I need to put together a killer playlist which will include one of my favorite summer jams from August 1990.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzoEK545j64Buon Ferragosto!
Life in Rome - An Escape to Sperlonga to Beat the Heat
Of course there was drama.My friend Marta and I decided to get the heck out of dodge as this heatwave is one of the worst on record. There are no signs of relief. I understand week or so with these kind of temperatures. It is, after all, July in Rome. However, an entire month of highs in the 90s and low 100s is not a good thing.Did I mention that I don't have air conditioning? I cannot keep my windows open at night as my pretty side street is filled with demonstrative high school Italian students, and drunk American exchange students until dawn.I'm waking up at 4:00 a.m. as it's impossible to sleep. One of my clients is started a major construction project this week so I cannot work remotely in the mountains or at the beach as some friends have suggested.All this to say Marta and I were READY to get out of here on Saturday but alas, Trenitalia had other plans for us.It was one of those classic only in Italy moments. The train was on time but then got stuck on the track just a few yards away from Termini Station. There was something wrong with the current. We couldn't get off the train as we were on the tracks. There was no place to safely walk. They worked on the train and tracks for TWO hours. Mind you, the train ride to Fondi is an hour or so.At last, the train returns to the station and that's when all hell broke loose. Folks were not happy. One woman was going off on the police. I thought if she were in the States they probably would've tased her, then arrested her.It's funny, when we on the train things were pretty calm. While there was some muttering, "ma che cazzo sta dicendo" (but, what the fuck is he saying?) when the conductor walked through our car to give us updates, people kept reading or chatting with their friends instead of complaining.They did have another train waiting for us, on a different track, right away. Trenitalia employees handed out bottles of water, which I thought was a nice touch.Finally, we were on our way. Instead of waiting for the bus (at this point we were starving) we hopped into a taxi mini-van with several other women who were going to Sperlonga. They had been on the same train as us. When we saw the beach, they started clapping. We kept cracking up because the driver was having a super animated conversation.In a bizarre way the timing worked out better for us. We arrived in time for lunch. The restaurant, Scylla, was on the north side of the Historic Center and we wanted to be on the south side beach. To climb back and forth wouldn't have made sense. So we sat down, had a lovely lunch, and then braved the sun to walk up and over to the other side.Everyone was snapping photos of this sign.
I forgot all about the start to our day once we arrived.
Still thinking about this dish.
Sperlonga is a Blue Flag beach between Rome and Naples.
Starting our climb back up to the Historic Center. I have written about Tiberius's ruins HERE. It's a great day trip from Rome.
A quick aperitivi in the main piazza before returning to Rome. I didn't want to leave the fresh air and cool breeze.
Fantastic signage.
The view from the bus stop.
Life in Rome - Chez Dédé Opening Party
A few years ago I wrote about how much I adore the boutique accessories label founded by Andrea Ferolla and Daria Rein, Chez Dédé.There has been a lot of retail space turnover in our neighborhood. Antique stores, artisans, etc., are shutting down and Subway fast food restaurants, and other weird sandwich shops are taking over. There have been some great additions, like the Suppli spot but for every one of those there are four or five places that leave locals scratching their heads.Via Monserrato is one of the prettiest streets in Rome. When I saw the large for rent sign where Ilaria MIani's showroom used to be, I became very nervous. What kind of janky business would set up shop on this street?Then I saw this:
YAS!The store had its opening last week. Erica and I walked over and bumped into a bunch of our neighbors. One of our favorite bartenders, Fabrizio from Pierluigi, made the Kir Royales.Unfortunately, for me, the store is stunning. I should just leave my wallet there and let them take my money. All of it.Erica completely fan-girled LInda Rodin. I don't blame her. Ms. Rodin is a style icon for a reason. She was so gracious and didn't give us the side-eye for geeking out.I think I need to treat myself to a nice Grand Sac bag for my birthday. It's a big one (no, I'm not going to say which birthday it is as I still work in Hollywood). I haven't decided which bag yet. The island of Salina is one of my favorite places in the world but I also love the colors/style of the Portofino, Kenya, and Dubai bags. I haven't been to any of those places, so I think I should go with the Salina bag.Below are photos from the opening. Grazie mille, Daria for the invite!EDIT:Okay, I wrote this yesterday with the plan to publish today. I like to proof read before publishing yet, some typos still make it through. Grrrr.On Saturday my friend Courtney called me and said she had to speak with me urgently on Sunday. I asked what was wrong. Why couldn't she tell me over the phone? I was working all day on Sunday but said I would meet her in the afternoon. Erica wanted me to stop by her daughter's lemonade stand. I said I was on my way to meet Courtney but would stop by. I was worried about Courtney. Erica said she was too and hoped that everything was okay.I show up at Etablli. Courtney sends a SMS saying she's on her way and she asks me to order her a glass of wine. What the heck was going on? Was her news so heavy she needed to have a drink in hand?She walks in and Erica (!) is right behind her. They say, "Happy Birthday" and then this happened:
I had no idea they were planning this! Erica thought I was going to buy the bag before my birthday so she and Courtney went into action over the weekend. My birthday isn't until August 26th.I was/am floored. I am not an easy person to surprise and they totally got me. Well played ladies, well played. I love my bag.
Andrea is a very talented illustrator.
Linda Rodin. Fabulous.
Erica and Linda.
So true.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - A Taste (just a taste) of Spring
The song UMBRELLA is playing on a loop in my head.Finally, we had a sunny day in Rome today. I try not to complain too much on Twitter given what my friends who live on the East Coast in the States are dealing with. I love snow but it's easy to say that when you don't have to commute in it or shovel it.There are tiny signs of Spring busting out in Rome. Flowers are starting to bloom, tourists are wearing T-shirts while locals still wear winter coats, and the Farmers Markets are filled with artichokes.I have Spring Fever. Hardcore.Villa Borghese Park.
I was jogging in the park and saw this peacock enjoying the sunshine.
Another sign of Spring, the Rome Marathon.
Blooming tree in Villa Borghese Park.
Springy colors.
These strawberries from the Testaccio Farmers Market were delicious.
A clear sign of Spring. Roman artichokes.
And spring peas at the market in Campo dei Fiori.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
Weekend Inspiration - Chocolate from SAID dal 1923
I was in the San Lorenzo neighborhood the other day and had to stop by SAID to pick up some chocolate.I'm more of a Swedish Fish, Jelly Bellys, and Gummy Bears type person but I do appreciate delicious chocolate, especially when it's so pretty.
Buon weekend and Happy Valentine's Day.
Life in Rome - My Attempt to Take Ballet Classes at the "Fame" School
Recently, I wrote about how I was inspired by Garance Doré's post on the New York City Ballet.Last week I checked out IALS (Istituto Addestramento Lavoratori dello Spettacolo) aka the Fame school in Rome. It was a straight-up disaster.I had signed up for a Beginner's class. There were three other women in my class who looked like ballerinas. The teacher, an older gentleman from Eastern Europe, quickly shouted out some choreography. I was overwhelmed within sixty seconds.I thought I was doing this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rnaq1iwxOF0 But it was more like this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2K4Kusf-a4Not a good look.The teacher stated, "You've never done ballet before." No, that is why I'm taking a Beginner's class! The other women had excellent turnouts. It was obvious they had experience. There are three different levels for Beginner's and I was in the first one. What the heck was going on?During one routine, we had to put our legs on the barre. I'm short and my leg could barely reach it. The only time the teacher walked over to me was when I was struggling to reach the barre. He pushed my torso closer to it and I thought my body would split in two.When the three ladies started pirouetting across the floor, I had to pull over to the side.I felt very discouraged after the ninety minute class was over. Clearly, I was too short and too old to take ballet lessons. I walked home (of course it started to rain) in a funk.I spoke to my friend Courtney who studied ballet as a child and to this day still does the warm-up exercises she learned. She told me not to give up and to try another teacher's class.I already had a monthly pass, so why not? I did and it was a revelation.The teacher, a svelte Italian man who could probably lift three times his body weight, introduced himself and asked me if I understood Italian. There were ten of us in the class and it was co-ed. He showed us the choreography, calling out the different positions while drawing our attention to his hand movements. As we danced, he would correct our form.He had two assistants and they also demonstrated the moves. If a sequence was too difficult for some of us in the class, he told us to watch the assistants, the more advanced dancers, and to do our best, "tranquilla!"During my first lesson, I felt clumsy. In his class, I felt graceful. I appreciated how he would walk over and show us where our hands, feet, and/or head should be. When we executed a move well, or corrected mistakes on our own, he would say, "bravo/brava!"At one point, while he was changing our music, I could hear the music from the Advanced class in the studio across the hall. It was "Concerto for Two Violins and Orchestra in D Minor"by Johann Sebastian Bach.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJh6i-t_I1QThis is one of my favorite pieces of music. I was so moved, I had to choke back tears.Once the class ended, we thanked Il maestro and his assistants. The ninety minutes had flown by. The next group of dancers and their teacher rushed in as we put on our street clothes in the hallway.I know my turnout will improve and it's okay that I didn't start lessons when I was four. I'm starting ballet now and I love it.