"See Naples and Die."
This is a phrase coined in the mid-1800s during the reign of the Bourbons. At the time Naples was the third most populous city in Europe after London and Paris. It was also one of the wealthiest.I prefer to agree with the original meaning of the phrase and not the "if you go to Naples you will die because it's so dangerous" image the city had for years.I first went to Naples in 2007 on a day trip during my second trip to Italy. I met the lovely Tracie P, then know as Tracie B. I don't believe that was almost eleven years ago! My last trip to Naples was with Erica in 2009. I thought it was four years ago at most.I cannot tell you how many people back then worried for my safety when I told them I was going to Naples. One friend said he hated the place as he was mugged literally five minutes after he walked out of the main train station. Naples was mentioned in the international press mostly for its pizza, the mafia, and a major garbage problem. During both trips I could count the number of American tourists on one hand. One famous guidebook said if Rome was overwhelming, don't go further south. Naples is Rome squared.I loved the energy of Naples during those early trips, even with the garbage situation. There's no place like it. It reminded me a little of pre-Disneyfied New York City.Not sure what the heck took me so long to return but I was shocked at the change. The city is cleaner than Rome. There are more American tourists. Fuelled in part by the popoluarity of the Ferrante book series, the international press is writing about the great things happening in Naples. Naples is "in". Are there still problems, yes. I recommend using the same precautions you would in any major, densely populated city. Leave the fancy watches, rings, etc at home or in your hotel safe.I wasn't as overwhelmed during this trip. It could be because I live in a walking city again whereas during my the first trip i was coming from Los Angeles where your car is a cocoon. I'd visited the archeological museum and Castel Nuovo on those trips. I wanted to see a few places I missed.My first stop was the Museo Capella Sansevero. You buy your ticket (€7) at the small nearby center/office . There was a long line to enter but it moved quickly. You cannot take any photos inside. It's not the easiest to find. It's on a small side street but my Google maps was on point.This is a church I would return to again, maybe in the dead of winter/off season so I could have more time to take it all in. I now understand why the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino is considered one of the most incredible sculptures in the world.I know this is all marble yet I have a hard time believing it.
Prince Raimondo di Sangro commissioned the young Sanmartino to create this work for his family's chapel. The Prince was a well-known alchemist and bold experimentalist. There are several other incredible works in the chapel inculding a poignant Pudicizia by Antonio Corradini, whose veiled female figure next to a cracked plaque, honors Raimondo's mother, Cecilia Gaetani d’Aquila d’Aragona. He was only 11 months old when she died.
There's a little room downstairs. Folks, once I descended down the narrow iron staircase I was shook. There are two skeletins, a man and a woman. They are encased in what looks like perfectly preserved human arterial systems. Over two centuries ago, Dr. Giuseppe Salerno from Palermo, along with the Prince, created theses anatomical works. There were/are all kinds of rumors as to how these bodies came to be. Word was that the Prince killed members of his staff, injecting them with liquid while they were still alive. Others said the arterial systems are reproductions. They are fascinating and creepy. No Google search for photos. Nope. Cannot. 
I got lost and went into many churches as I made my way to the restaurant Antica Osteria Pisano. Thanks for the suggestion, Gina. The restaurant is in the Historic Center on the cusp of the Forcella neightbhood. If you've watched the third season of GOMORRA you're familiar with this mural of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples.
I asked about the pasta of the day. It was Rigatoni alla Bolognese. I was skeptical about ordering this dish outside of Bologna but Gennaro (one of the owners) told me it was delicious. He was correct.I walked off my pasta getting lost on the way to Palazzo Reale. I had the palace on my list but never made it during my last two trips.I listened to the audioguide. I highly recommend it as the history of this palace is fascinating. The palace suffered some major damage during WWII but you can still get a sense of the wealth and presitage of the era.Located in Piazza del Plebiscito, the outside is understated. I was not prepared for this.
Or this.
I was overwhelmed by the beauty and will have to write a seperate post about the interiors and history of this palace.The seafront is very close to this piazza, just down the hill. I decided to walk along the sea on my way to the Chiaia neighborhood. A large section of the Lungamare is a car-free zone. This was started in 2012 and what a great idea. People, mostly locals, were out and about enjoying the sunny weather. There are plenty of caffes and restaurants
I didn't get to spend much time in the Chiaia area because I had to catch my return train. Chiaia is an upscale neighborhood where you find your luxury local shops and some of the international brands like Prada. I popped into a small enoteca, Belledonne, for a glass of wine. It was excellent and €6.I made my way to the closet Metro stop. I found the signage a little confusing but asked for directions.I took the fast Italo train. It's only an hour and usually there are great deals during the week for same day travel. I really need to spend more time in Naples.Photos: Me and my iPhone unless noted
Day Trip to Alberobello, Puglia
Happy New Year! I hope 2018 brings you much joy, peace, and happiness.I have read about and seen photos of the infamous trulli. Alberobello, which we visited during our Eat, Pray, Move, retreat, was packed with many American tourists even though it was late September. I can see why. There's nothing like it. This region is the only area in Italy that has these unique buildings and there's a concentration of them in Alberobello.The white, cone-roofed houses in Alberobello are a UNESCO World Heritage site. We had a great tour guide who explained the history of the trulli. There are many theories but the most popular one (and likely) is that during the 1600's the nobility imposed a high taxation on any permanent structure. The poor farmers built their houses so the roofs could be dismantled easily, by bascially removing one stone. Very clever.We were able to tour a trullo. It was incredible to learn some of them hosted whole families and their livestock. Other homes were comprised of several trulli with each one being a separate room.Our Masseria had several trulli on its property. I love how the architects incorporated them into the modern structures. Inspiring.
There are trulli with curious symbols on them. Some are clearly religious, the others? Another area for debate.
As you enter the main street of Alberobello, there are two hills. The one on your left is the old town/Historic Center and the main tourist street. It's filled with gift shops and places to eat/drink. There are a few shops selling items made locally. The other hill is more residential and the modern town. There are several piazzas with caffes, and butchers, clothing stores, etc. etc. The restaurant EVO, where I had one of the best meals ever, is located in a quiet corner near the Basilica. I wrote more about it for the Casa Mia Blog. Grazie, Erin for arranging this unforgettable meal and wine pairing.
I suggest spending time on both hills. Alberobello is tiny. The old town does have a bit of a Disneyland vibe but don't let that stop you. The view from the "new" town is spectacular.Alberobello was celebrating its Saint's Day. On the new hill everything was lit.
We were there on a raining cloudy day so my photos of the old town are not great. Here's a better one from zee Internets.
I took this one in the backyard of a trullo in the old town that was under renovation. 
These trulli were in the new town. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Eating, Praying, and Moving in Puglia
I made it to Puglia, finally!I've wanted to visit this region of Italy for years. I was excited to learn that Eat, Pray, Move had a yoga retreat in Puglia and signed up.I wrote about my first yoga retreat which was in Tuscany. That retreat had an art component. This retreat had a Move + Manifest one.We went on days trips to Alberobello, Polignano al Mare, Martina Franca, Matera, and Ostuni. We covered a lot so instead of writing the longest blog post on earth, this is more of an overview and I will write about some of the individual towns we visited later. There was free time built into the schedule so you never felt rushed. All classes and activities were optional.We were a group of twelve women with most of us being from the States and one from Australia. It was a great group and fun to get to know everyone. Small world alert...I was speaking with one of the women and she made a passing reference to the university she graduated from. I told her that I was an alum too. We talked about our previous jobs and she mentioned a best friend, a Hollywood screenwriter, who also graduated from Syracuse University. Her friend was one of my former assistants and it was his first job in the industry. Random!Michelle's workshops were excellent and helpful. I'm slightly biased as I've worked with Michelle earlier this year. It's one thing to open up one-on-one but in a group, not so easy. On the first day I was a little skeptical about the whole thing. By the end of the week, this was me:
I went to Puglia in late September. While we had some rainy days, I've heard from my Pugliese friends that it's a great time to visit. The weather is still warm and it's less crowded. Puglia gets packed in the summer with Italians coming home from other regions, and Italian tourists. It seems that for at least the last five years, there's been a ton of press about Puglia being the "next" Tuscany. Alberobello and Matera had a lot of tourists but overall Puglia is still off the beaten path for most American tourists. It's a shame as Puglia is a beautiful region and the food is off the chain. Seriously, I cannot stress how fresh and delicious the food was. Puglia's in my top four along with Piemonte, Emilia-Romagna, and Sicily as my favorite Italian food regions.Our base was the Masseria Fumarola. It's an hour or so drive from the Brindisi airport. Thankfully, Alitalia wasn't on strike and was still solvent at the time.
The Masseria (which is what country estate houses are called in Puglia) was perfection. It's located in the heart of the Valle d'Itria area. The main farmhouse dates back to the early 1800s. Once a working farm run by the grandmother of the current owner, Masseria Fumarola was renovated by the owner's architect father. He turned it into a beautiful boutique hotel without stripping the buildings of their original charm.Love the stone floors. I was so busy enjoying the conversations and the food, I forgot to take photos of the dining room.
The Masseria is surround by six acres of woodlands that includes, olive groves, vineyards, several vegetable gardens, and orchards.
Each room/bungalow is unique. I loved how the trulli were incorporated.
The pomengranate tree outside our bunalow.
The meals we had were simple, outstanding, and very local. Most of the vegetables came from the gardens.The one day it was warm enough to go swimming in their pool, we went to the sea. We appreciated the huge fireplace in the main building during the cool evenings. We would meet there for workshops, or a glass of wine (or both) and in the morning, there were fruits, tea/coffee available for us before our 8:00 a.m. yoga class.
I was a tightly wound ball of stress when I stepped onto the plane in Rome. I'm still processing everything I learned during the workshops but physically I feel much better.I walked around the property at sunrise. I was greatful for the stillness, the scents, the freshness of the air, and the beauty of it all. My yoga has improved by leaps and bounds since the summer. This time my mind didn't wander. While Erin's classes sometimes kicked my butt (my abs were on fire the next day) I looked forward to that hour and fifteen minutes.Rome can be a very difficult city and this year has really tested my perseverance. During my trip to Puglia, I was able to reconnect a bit with the main reasons why I moved to Italy in the first place.I cannot wait to return to Puglia. Bari and Lecce are on my list.
Photos: Me and my iPhone, except for the pool photo from Masseria Fumarola.
Hurricanes Harvey, Irma, and Maria - How to Help
Hurricane Season 2017 was devastating. On the personal front, my parents (in St. Martin) do have electricity again but still no phone service. I haven't spoken to them since the day before Hurricane Irma.Most of the power is back in St. Martin, over 90%. Meanwhile in Puerto Rico, 80% of the island is still without power, there's a lack of running water, and people are dying one month after the hurricane. This is unacceptable. The United States is a wealthy country. However, the administration's response was/is so slow, international organizations like Oxfam had to step in. Oxfam normally works in places like Yemen, South Sudan, Bangladesh, etc.Hurricane Cat's (from Houston) face sums up how we feel about this hurricane season.
I've received many emails/texts/DMs asking how to help. Thank you! I thought it would be a good idea to have a place to list relief efforts. If you have any to add that focus on helping those on the ground (and not administrative costs), please do so in the comments. HARVEYHouston Food BankUnited Way of Greater HoustonYMCA of Greater Houston IRMARebuild AnguillaRebuild St. Martin/St. MaartenUnited Way Miami-Dade MARIANew York State Relief for Puerto Rico and US Virgin IslandsSave the Children Hurricane Relief in Puerto RicoUnited for Puerto Rico Charities that are working in several impacted areas:All Hands Hurricane reliefAmericaresOne America Appeal. A fund supported by the USA's ex-Presidents.Salvation Army
Life in Rome - Mini-break at Le Méridien Visconti Hotel
One of my friends, who owns a boutique travel agency in Italy, told me that finding four star hotels in Rome is difficult. She said there are great options at the five-star high-end level and at the economical end but there are too many four-stars that are really a three- star at best.Enter Le Méridien. The Starwood Group recently added the Visconti Hotel to its portfolio. The hotel officially reopened this June after a twenty million dollar renovation.I had the opportunity to stay at the hotel for two nights. Before my stay I read reviews online because I'm anal. The reviews were very good except for two things, the air conditioning and the WiFi.Given my stay was happening during one of the worst heatwaves in history and I had several work deadlines, I was concerned.They must have fixed these issues as I'm happy to report I had no problems. In fact the A/C was so strong I had to turn it off. My fellow Americans, you know that NEVER happens in Italy.The hotel is located in Prati. It's a few minutes walk from Piazza Cavour and in the other direction (a slightly longer walk), Piazza del Popolo. I think it's a perfect location. You're near the Historic Center but not smack in the middle of it and the prices reflect this. The area is centrally located as Piazza Cavour is a major bus hub. For those who like to walk, you can cross the river and be in the heart of the Historic Center in ten minutes.The roof terrace is fantastic. Sometimes there are annoying loud seagulls who like to wait for people to leave and then dive in for the food. The waiters are on top of it though. Seagulls 0.
Service was great. Granted some of the employees at the hotel have seen me a few times but that wasn't the case with the check-in. I thought they were friendly. There was a small line when I arrived but it moved quickly.Location, price, design, of course all these things matter but when I stay in a hotel there are two things that are extremely important to me. Cleanliness. I cannot stand clutter and dirty bathrooms or kitchens freak me out. I don't want to step into a hotel bathroom and see hair in the drain. Just typing that made me feel queasy. The other thing is the bed. It must be comfortable.My room was spotless and the bed was excellent. The toiletries are Malin & Goetz. I was so geeked out to see them because no retailer in Rome sells these products. I checked the website and there is a store in Milan that carries them. I muust remember this important information for my next trip.
The interior design has mid-century touches that also speak to the hotel's location in the Eternal City. The head designer was Harry Gregory of the firm, ara Design International. They wanted to create something timeless.I adore the pared down use of marble, a material synonymous with Italy and Rome. I think too much marble can make an interior feel cold. At the Le Méridien it's warm and dramatic.The neutrals of grey, black, and white, with splashes of color, are relaxing and chic. The Longitude 12 Bar and Bistrot is a great place for a coffee during the day and for cocktails at night. The Bistrot also has a delicious lunch and dinner menu and starts serving wine around noon.In the Bistrot there's a communal table that has outlets for your laptop and phone adapters.
Downstairs, there was a wide selection for breakfast, including American bacon. I repeat, there was American bacon.
The hotel has an eclectic art collection, from abstract to figurative pieces, created with different materials. These artworks are from the private collection of the Toti family. Their collection focuses on Italian artists from the 1980s. When people think of Rome they often focus on classical art. It's wonderful to see some contemporaries pieces as well.
The gym is small but well-equipped with Technogym equipment. Did you know Technogym was an Italian company? I saw this brand in high-end gyms in New York City and Los Angeles and had no idea until I moved to Italy. Mind blown.I stayed at the hotel in early August but have been stopping by since April. This is not official market research but it seems to me that the hotel is very popular with couples, families, business travelers, and friends traveling together. I didn't see too many solo vacation travelers but I've always felt welcomed thanks to the friendly service.Photos: Me and my iPhone. Disclaimer: I was a guest of the hotel. However, opinions and thoughts are my own.
St. Martin and Anguilla Pre Hurricane Irma
As many of you know, my family is from the Caribbean with the majority living in St. Martin and Anguilla.There have been plenty of articles in the international press, and videos, showing the complete devastation and aftermath. As of today, we're still waiting to hear about one of our relatives. We are sick with worry but thankful that most of our friends and family are safe. Many have lost their homes, or have sustained major damage, and the non-retired members, their jobs (for now).It may take up to three years for St. Martin to rebuild. I haven't heard any estimates yet regarding Anguilla.I know these are tiny islands so no one really cares what happens to them. I was speaking to a Hollywood exec friend of my mine whose parents are also from the Caribbean and she noted the overall silence from well known African-American celebrities, including the ones who are from the region (seriously?) and the ones have vacationed on the islands.Perhaps this will change in the coming days.
Eat, Pray, Move - Tuscany
I stopped practicing yoga over fifteen years ago after I seriously injured my right wrist. I was taking "Power Yoga" classes and I don't think I paid enough attention to what was going on with my body.I couldn't focus long enough in class. My mind was always racing, thinking about all the things I had to do or didn't do. The injury was a convenient excuse to say, "arriverderci" to yoga.I've known Erin for over eleven years. We met via our former blogs before meeting in person and we moved to Italy at the same time. Erin was on a sabbatical in Florence for a year or so and then moved back to the States. She returned frequently and we would always try to see each other. I remember when she started Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga seven years ago. She began with one retreat in Tuscany and over the years has added more locations. In 2014 she left her corporate job and now she holds on average sixteen retreats in nine countries, Italy (multiple locations) France, Spain, Croatia, Iceland, Morocco, Indonesia, India, and Japan. The latter she added this year.It's very inspiring to see how Erin has built this wonderful life and business from scratch. She has tapped into something very special.Last month I had the opportunity to see, in person, what Erin's accomplished. I was worried about the yoga. I had asked her in the past if it would bad form to go to a yoga retreat and pass on doing the yoga (ha). Erin assured me that all levels (including those with no experience) were welcome and that participation in all activities was optional.It was an incredible experience and I'm already planning my next retreat. This retreat was yoga and art. It was held at a country house right on the border of Tuscany and Umbria. I took the train into Chiusi, where I met the other participants. Julian and Erin picked us up.The house, Siliano Alto, is part of the “Le Coste” Estate (a 1500 acre protected nature and hunting reserve), and dates back to around 1760. Other sections were added in the 19th and 20th centuries. During the Second World War the house was used as a billet for German soldiers until it suffered a direct hit on the front side from an American bombing raid. After the War, the house was home to the farmers who worked on the estate. Five separate families lived upstairs and cows, horses and pigs were kept in the cantinas below. Julian and his family moved to the property in 2006 and began a two-year restoration project before opening up for art courses.
The location was wonderful with beautiful views and incredible sunsets. I was told that some wild boars were hanging out by our doors during the first night. I didn't hear them, which is a good thing.
I appreciated this welcome aperitivi.
During the welcome Erin went over the week's schedule was (there was a print out as well). I couldn't stay the entire week because of a work commitment back in Rome. There's plenty of free time built into the schedule. Breakfast and dinners are included, along with some lunches.The food is vegetarian and delicious. I didn't miss eating meat or fish at all. If you must get your meat-eating on, it's possible to so during the lunches that are not provided.
Erin is a certified yoga instructor and the morning classes usually start at 8:00 a.m. and last an hour and fifteen minutes. I'll be honest, I was struggling to get through our first class. I kept thinking about how hungry I was, Idris Elba, and work stuff. I couldn't get it together. Erin was great, checking our poses. If there was one movement that was too difficult for some of us in the class, she would suggest an easier one. The next day my abs were on fire.
The second day I had some fruit before class and made more of an effort to focus. Anytime I felt my mind starting to race again, I pumped the brakes. By the time I left the retreat, I was able to make through an entire class without any distractions.The non-yoga part of the retreat was fantastic as well. We visited the town of Chiusi where Julian, who is an artist and art teacher, gave us an excellent tour. We had pizza in town with the perfect crust. We also drove to the small borgo of Panicale and had a fun wine and olive oil tasting.
The next day was our day trip to Siena. I visited Siena during my second vacation to Italy. I had my guide-book and everything but I learned a lot more about the Duomo and the town with Julian. He went into detail regarding how the Plague impacted the city. Seven out of ten Sienese died.The Duomo is breathtaking. What Julian said about the cathedral architects of that era was profound. The architects were designing buildings that would be finished long after they died. They knew they would never see them completed. Very different from these McMansiony times.
On my last day we had an art class. We did several drawing exercises. Later, during our free time, several of us took advantage of the watercolor paints in the studio.
That day we also had a pasta making class. I haven't made pasta from scratch in years. I need to do it more often. The pasta was ridiculously good. All of us had seconds.
In the afternoon we went to Cortona. Of course we had to stop by Bramasole.
I can see why so many of the participants are repeaters. It's a genius way to travel, especially if you're a solo traveler. The retreats are small and personal. Yet, there's plenty of alone time if you need it.Since the retreat I've been trying to practice yoga at least three times a week. My friends, who are very serious about it, recommended a few beginner videos to me. It's a great way to start my day (good thing I saw 45's unhinged press conference this morning after yoga). I say this as someone who is not crunchy. I still don't understand what the heck is going on with this bulletproof Matcha tea craze.One of Erin's goals when she started Eat, Pray, Yoga, was to find a way to include charitable work. You can read more about the organizations they collaborate with here.
A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region
The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy. I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.
We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro. Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate. Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work. During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.
Our lunch was excellent. Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate. On a design note, it was perfection. Great service too.
We decide to take a power walk before dinner. I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests. I don't know why boars freak me out. Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive? I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such. I know this is not logical.
During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged. We had a wonderful time. The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious. You never know with communal dining. I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit. Tears. Instead we went old school and played records. John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl. I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap. EW&F is one of my favorite bands. I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period. Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F. This person was also a black American Gen-Xer. I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo. It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance. Paradise.
During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.
We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend. It was delicious, and very pretty.
I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time. I adore this small hill town.
The first time I was there was during the dead of winter. This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off. However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit. We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town. The views were just ridiculous. Hello, is this real life?
The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.
Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi. It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi. Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom. I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003. He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.
We ate lunch in the entoeca. Outstanding. The service was incredible. As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.
The sun was trying to make an appearance.
Monteverdi is an unique experience. There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades. However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo. Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.
Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day. When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning. I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.
If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Countryhouse
My apologies for the radio silence. Work has been bonkers. One of my clients moved back to the States. She was a high-ranking diplomat and her term was up. We needed to organize a major international move for someone who had lived in Rome for quite some time.My trip to La Bandita was the weekend after her move was finished. The timing was perfect. I was completely wiped out.I've been to the Townhouse and was curious about the Countryhouse after reading about it in design magazines. When Annalee invited me to join her, she didn't have to ask twice.
We met at the Chiusi train station and rented a car. Thankfully, Annalee did most of the driving as the two times I've rented a car in Italy I've received a speeding ticket. I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and drove pretty much every single day. I never received a speeding ticket (or any ticket for that matter). NEVER. I really don't understand why I got tickets in Sicily and Tuscany given I was trying to keep up with the flow of traffic. Sorry, I digress.I keep hearing Tuscany is over. Those people are on drugs. Are there some areas that are packed with tourists? Yes, but Tuscany is a large region. There's no reason to write off the entire area.The Val d'Orcia is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been to in Italy. My next post will be about what we did and where we went.Today, I'm focusing on the interior design. I've seen my share of "Tuscan" interiors. Too often there are extremes, either super modern, stripping all the character out of these older homes or too traditional, creating a space that reminds you of the Addams Family's house.Owners Ondine Cohane and John Voightmann, with their architects Ernesto Bartolini and Arianna Pieri of DA Studio in Florence, have a created a contemporary space that is warm, airy, and feels Tuscan. That last quality is so difficult to get right especially in an era of cookie cutter interior design (in part because every city has the same chain stores). Are there elements of the design that would feel at home in say, Miami or the Caribbean? Absolutely. The La Bandita team worked closely with local artisans and used natural materials found in the area. All these pieces came together to create a space that could only be in Tuscany.This article, written by Ondine, is about the how and why John and Ondine opened the Country House.
Annalee and I stayed in The Pigsty Suite. Yes, this independent apartment (just a few meters from the main house) used to be the pigsty.
My pictures don't do it justice. It was perfection. We had our own little patio. The views from our "backward" were breathtaking. The bathroom was immaculate. I have a thing about cleanliness in general and it's taken to another level regarding kitchens and bathrooms.The bathroom was huge and I loved having a shower next to the big picture window. I felt like I was taking a shower outdoors but without the risk of being attacked by wild boars. Seriously, these darn boars are no joke. Annalee and I went jogging before dinner and other guests told us they saw a family of boars right after they passed us on the road. No grazie.
The check in desk/reception is in the main quasi-open planned room with the kitchen and dining areas. There is a lounge/library area with a great selection of books.
My personal hotel tastes lean toward simple but sophisticated interiors. Some might find the bedrooms too minimalist but for me they let the architecture and views shine. The rooms are relaxing and calm which is what I want in a hotel room.
I can see how this hotel may not work for a solo traveler or anti-social couples as the dining space is communal. Bandita Countryhouse would be perfect for a group to rent the entire space.It's truly off the beaten path so I'm glad we arrived during the day. The unpaved road leading to the property is steep but worth it for the 360 views.
While technically it is a boutique hotel, the vibe at La Bandita Countyhouse is more your friend's very chic country house in Tuscany. I am here for it. The hospitality and food were wonderful. John, Ondine, Dario, Elena, Paola, Marco, and the cat (I didn't catch its name) made us feel at home.I had a great time. So much so that I'm willing to deal with the drama of driving a car in Italy again.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.La Bandita CountryhousePodere La BanditaPienza (SI) 53026Toscana, ItaliaTel +39–333–404–6704Fax +1–212–202–6222website
Guest Post - Studying Abroad in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,This is the last post from our intern, Ariella. I asked her to write about her overall experience studying in Rome. It was a pleasure to work with Ariella and we wish her the best as she continues her studies at Cornell University.I have spent the last four and a half months exploring Rome. I've immersed myself in a new culture, started to learn a new language, admired the art and architecture of this amazing city that continues to create history, and meandered through its confusing yet welcoming streets.The illusions and expectations of studying and living abroad in Rome were surpassed by the realities of my temporary new home. The only real challenge seemed to be the difference in the food markets, which I quickly understood. How fun and interesting to be able to select and purchase food that looked real and smelled as it should. The shadows of dust and dirt reminded me of where the food actually came from, as opposed to very manicured and polished plastic packages of foods that all looked the same and had no aroma.Stopping at every cafe along the way as I discovered my neighborhood and others I explored, I found my comfort zone. While homesick for family and friends for a short first week, I'm now faced with the fear of returning as I know I will long for the place I will be leaving behind. I suppose it's good to leave with the feeling of wanting to return as my mission feels unfinished. I fantasize about returning for an extended period of time and can even imagine living here in the future.Rome has surpassed my expectations and has given me much to think about. I have enjoyed the people, the culture and lifestyle, and the way one moves through this city. It has been so interesting to see how such an old city with all its monuments and history has been able to have continuity despite the politics and introduction of globalization. This is evident by all the current problems of immigration, unemployment, housing, circulation etc. It's obvious that to preserve and yet become a place where the locals and visitors can enjoy this eternal city, introducing and maintaining infrastructure in the existing urban fabric has been quite a challenge.It has been a privilege to live and learn in this setting with Rome’s varied colors as they age and as the sun rises and sets through the changing seasons, giving us different perspectives of an everlasting place.
Life in Rome - Day Trip to Spoleto
Ciao Bloggisti,Friends of mine recently bought a weekend place in Spoleto and invited me up for a day. It's about forty miles south east of Perugia.It was my first trip to Spoleto and I highly recommend a visit. The Historic Center is very charming with incredible views. I took a lot of photos. Below are a few.Ponte delle Torri - a 13th century aqueduct.One of the highlights for me. Next time I will bring a pair of sneakers or hiking shoes so I could walk further up the trail.
The Duomo - Santa Maria Assunta
More pictures of the Historic Center.
Basilica di Santa Gregorio Maggiore - consecrated in 1146.
Note: This is not a politics blog but the US election last week was not normal.The President Elect would like to commute to the White House, staying mostly in Trump Tower. I was not aware that being President of the most powerful country on the planet was a part-time gig. This would create a major logistical nightmare for the Secret Service and the NYPD. It would also be a headache for residents of the building and the surrounding area as blocks of a major street (5th Avenue) would have to be shut down.There's a silver lining. Trump may not have time or the desire to redecorate the White House. I was thinking of writing a separate post about this space:
SpoletoPhotos: Me and my iPhone Trump Living Room: iDesignArch
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Amsterdam
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from our intern, Ariella:Last week my classmates and I went to Amsterdam. My impression of the city upon arriving was very different to my expectations. The architecture reflects its history and age, serving as a unique backdrop for modern, urban life.
I had preconceived notions of what the relatively “young” culture/community of Amsterdam was like. While Amsterdam really is a young and vibrant city, we soon found out how the existing architectural exteriors are not allowed to change. There’s a strict limit on the height of buildings in order to preserve the density and aesthetic “look” of Amsterdam. This also gives the city the character of feeling small, manageable, and almost village like, easy to get around. We saw many bikers traveling through its beautiful streets, even during peak rush hour time. Amsterdam is very livable and feels “alive” with its diverse multicultural population whose art and ideas you see splashed all about town; on the walls, in the alleyways, in fairs and in performances. 
Amsterdam has become a city where all the people and their original works have connected the old character of the city to the new young ideas.
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Torino
The floor of the elevator was made of glass and had striking views of the entire building. However, the ride up was not the best experience for those of us with a fear of heights.Looking back, I feel I did not spend enough time in the museum as it's something that could possibly take an entire day. The next day we walked around the city admiring the architecture, walking in and out of churches and buildings. At one point we realized there was a kind of 'exhibition' in the city. Contemporary artists had pieces displayed throughout the city and there was a map of all of the pieces. We grabbed a map and started the trail. This trail took us to some beautiful piazzas and courtyards. One of the pieces was a large cube with a triangular pyramid on top which matched the design of the window almost exactly except it was enlarged. The cafes in Torino were also incredibly beautiful. It was obvious that they were built and designed long ago. The way the aesthetics have been maintained make them unique to Torino, similar to much of the architecture we saw.
Photos by Ariella.
A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily
Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal. Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident. I got lost constantly. It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere. This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man. Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room. It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views. It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.
I woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna. 
It got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before. It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time. I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.
Of course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out. 
Grazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation. None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost. What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner. Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa. It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view. Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. 
Next, Modica.Had a slight fender bender. It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled. At least I wasn't driving a stick shift. I thought Modica was beautiful as well.
Three years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia. I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli. If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again. Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out. The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year! The word is out. There were small tour buses. The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related). I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.
Dinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.
By time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off. Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets. Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada. It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain. I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain. Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general. I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North. However, Sicily keeps calling me. I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring. The food and wine are incredible. The people I've met made me feel at home.
Sicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Life in Rome - A Day Trip to Ischia
Ciao Bloggisti,How was the rest of your summer?The rientro was/is intense but I'm loving this back-to-school vibe. Folks are rested and ready.My summer was pretty uneventful, except for a visit from my younger sister. Daniella was speaking at conference in Hamburg, Germany and decided to return to the States from Rome.It was her first trip to Italy and she loved it. She rented a fabulous place in Monti. Daniella happened to be in town during my birthday and we decided to take a day trip to the island of Ischia.Ischia is somewhat of a schlep for one day but it had been on my "must visit" list for ages. We took the fast train to Naples. It was worth the extra money to save time. We also paid a little more to book our ferry tickets in advance online.A friend who used to live in Ischia and other another friend who holds yoga retreats there, recommended Il Giardino Eden as a great place for lunch. All I wanted was a view of the water and decent food. Our lunch was delicious and the views were ridiculous.To get the restaurant you can walk up a short steep hill or, for ten euros or so round trip, have a little boat take you to the restaurant. We went with the boat.I'm big fan of the film The Talented Mr. Ripley (the set and costume designs were incredible). It was a treat to see several of the locations, like Castello Aragonese, in person.I would love to return during the off season and stay for awhile. It's a beautiful island.
Life in Rome - Aperitivi at the Beach
Ciao Bloggisti,How's the summer treating you so far?As I wrote in my previous post, I'm trying to improve my attitude and to be more social. My friend Courtney and I had plans to meet for aperitivi on Saturday. Instead of dealing with crowds in the Historic Center on a hot Saturday evening, I suggested we go to the beach. We went to Singita in Fregene. It was fantastic!Sometimes we forget that Rome is so close to the sea. By going for aperitivi instead of lunch or dinner, we would miss beach traffic in both directions.It was just what the doctor ordered. Nice breeze, great drinks, and a beautiful sunset. We started out with non-alcoholic drinks and then switched to a mojito. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Life in Rome - My Post Milan Funk
I've been in a weird mood since returning from Milan the other week.I'm crashing from the Salone del Mobile high, Prince is dead, and I have a cold. I rarely get sick but when I do it seems as if my colds have a need to make up for lost time or something.When I went to the Salone two years ago this didn't happen. Something has changed in Rome and it's not for the better. I'm not the only one who feels this way. These articles, yesterday's New York Times and a piece my friend Michelle wrote for US and News Report in February, sum things up pretty well. Maybe I have cabin fever. Hopefully, tomorrow I will feel better and can leave my house!I have been to the Salone three times. The first time I stayed in a hotel near the Convention Center. The second time I rented an apartment in the city near the canals. Third time's a charm.Hotel prices are insane during the Salone (if you can find one). The Salone is larger than Fashion week and seventy percent of the people attending are visiting from other countries. The entire city takes part. If you're planning to attend, make reservations early. Many companies and vendors have blocked out rooms years in advance.I returned to the Principe after my great experience there in September. I still don't understand how the hotel was filled to capacity, yet I rarely saw any other guests on my floor. So quiet. The service at this hotel is impeccable despite its size. Plus, they have American bacon during breakfast.Renting an apartment while traveling on vacation is an excellent option but I've learned my lesson. When I'm working, a hotel is a better choice for me. Much better.I was running around Milan like a chicken with my head cut off and it was wonderful to return to a clean room, to have concierge service, a gym, a convenient place to have meetings, etc. Of course the cost was higher than the apartment I rented two years ago but my trip was more productive.And what a great trip...four intense days of meetings and visiting showrooms. I wish I had more time.I posted a few photos on Instagram and below are additional pictures from some of the highlights. I can't upload all the highlights as I forgot to take photos at the Ethimo party, and quite a few showrooms.
Design Inspiration - Sugar Paper, Los Angeles
I'm a big fan of Sugar Paper's letter-press stationary. I must visit their store whenever I'm in Los Angeles.Before I said "arrivederci" to my Hollywood screenwriting career, my Los Angeles trips were a blur of pitches, general meetings, and being stuck in horrendous traffic.During my last trip, I was able to slow down a bit and really see Los Angeles. My feelings about Los Angeles have completely changed. I lived there for ten years and was so happy to get out. Now? I'm excited to spend time there. Not that excited about the thirteen-hour direct flight though.Sugar Paper is located in the Brentwood Country Mart. The market is worth checking out as well. In the past I've bought my stationary and rushed out the door to my next meeting.This time I had a lunch meeting at Farmshop in the Mart and the traffic gods had smiled upon me. I was very early. To be honest, my wallet was displeased with the turn of events.How lovely is this space?
Renovated last year by the firm Life.Style., this update of the ten-year old shop is perfection. The stationary is the star of the show.
The brass light fixtures are Thomas O'Brien and the fabric is from Peter Dunham. For more (and professional!) pictures of the project, the Life.Style. portfolio is here.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome – Rome Luxury Suites, Via Babuino
Buon giorno!Life has been nuts these past few weeks between signing new clients and moving. I still have twenty-five boxes of books and magazines to unpack.I hope to publish a post on this blog the first and third Wednesday of the month, at least. I need get it on a schedule or else it will end up like Jeb!’s presidential campaign. Seriously, what’s happening there? He must be very annoyed. This is one of most unusual American presidential races I've ever seen, but I digress.While Rome is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, finding a hotel here can be tricky especially once you get out of the five-star range.I tend to prefer smaller boutique hotels, so I was excited to check out Rome Luxury Suites on Via Babuino. I was invited, along with a few other guests, to tour the hotel followed by an aperitivi on the new rooftop. You know how I feel about terraces, more on that later.The location couldn’t be better. Via Babuino is in the Trident area, close to the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. The sidewalks were recently widened. During the day there's a lot of pedestrian traffic as this street is a popular high-end shopping destination. At night, it’s quiet. There are no bars, or clubs.The hotel has twenty-four rooms. They are stylishly decorated without being too “done”. On some floors it’s possible to connect rooms, creating a private suite. Perfect for a family.This is a great place for someone who likes the idea of renting an apartment but would like the services of a hotel (concierge).One of my favorite rooms was the Babuino Suite which has its own balcony.
Now back to the roof terrace. It’s available for guests only. This was my favorite part of the hotel. I know that’s not logical but what can I say? I love a good roof terrace.For more about the hotel (they have two other locations in the neighborhood) you can check out their website HERE.
Life in Rome - Where to go for Cocktails
The wonderful women at Italy Casa Mia asked me to write a guest post about where to have delicious cocktails in Rome. It was hard work, very difficult research.
Photo: Gina Tringali However, somehow I was able to complete this assignment.Quite a bit of ink has been spilled recenty regarding how the cocktail scene has improved in Rome. I don’t know what it was like before but I agree that yes, it is possible to have a cocktail in Rome. Anyone who tells you that the only thing to drink is wine or an Aperol Spritz (not that there’s anything wrong with either of them) is incorrect.While a great bartender (or mixologist as they’re called today) is key, the atmosphere is just as important. There are some spots where the drinks are good but I cannot get into the vibe and/or décor.Of course this list is very subjective. Below are the places my friends and I tend to go to time and time again. Not on the list are a few bars some of my younger friends love. To paraphrase Lethal Weapon, “I’m too old for that foolishness.” This is a grown folks list.First up, in alphabetical order, the hotel bars. I’ve heard that back in the day (perhaps 2003?) the best chance for a decent cocktail was at a hotel bar but the prices tend to be higher.
DOM
This hotel opened two years ago on the gorgeous Via Giulia. A former convent, the tiny downstairs bar is seriously sexy with its dark greys. They make a great French 75. In warmer months, head upstairs to the lovely rooftop terrace. Note: On weekend nights, the bar gets very crowded. There’s usually a line (and a list) to get in.To read the rest of my list, click HERE. Buon drinking!