My Ciao Bella interview with JJ Martin, founder of La Double J
Buongiorno a tutti!
Erica Firpo's Ciao Bella has published my interview with JJ Martin. Yes, it's true I rave about her and her brand often but I know first hand how difficult it is to be an entrepreneur in Italy. What JJ has created is incredible.
It was truly a pleasure to sit down with this very talented and dynamic woman to discuss interior design, creativity, and living in Italy.
To The Max: Designing Milan’s La Double J Store
Brick and mortar maximalism
When I read LaDoubleJ (those fabulous maximalist dresses from JJ Martin, Patron Saint of Patterns) was going to open its first retail shop, I couldn’t wait to see its interiors, not just because I’m a decorator but also as a fan of JJ Martin’s colorful brand. As luck and business would have it, I had to travel to Milan to meet with a new client. And Erica, knowing that visiting the new La Double J store was a “must” on my list, asked me if I could write about the store. JJ was gracious to carve out some time in her busy schedule to sit down with Ciao Bella to discuss the design of her new store and her brand.
Arlene Gibbs: First question. What inspired you to open an actual store, brick and mortar, at this moment when all we hear is that retail is dead. It’s all about e-commerce. No one goes to stores anymore.
JJ Martin: Well, we started as a direct to consumer business and an online business so I totally agree with that. I don’t think it makes sense at all, these brands that were built on brick and mortar with three hundred shops around the world. It doesn’t feel relevant anymore, especially these cookie cutter shops that all look the same. When you scan these streets, you can’t even tell the difference. They all have white walls, really bright light, chrome or gold finishes.
AG: You could be on Rodeo Drive.
JJ: You could be anywhere. So, a huge network of stores was never my vision nor will it be. However, we stared in this little showroom in Milan that was our showroom, our atelier, our office, our workroom, everything, and we were also selling clothes at the very beginning from there. It literally did like five things. What we kept hearing from people all the time was, “don’t you have a place we could try on more clothes?”
To read the rest of the interview, click HERE.
Photos courtesy of La Double J.
Villa Necchi, A Must See/Do in Milan
Ciao from a rainy morning in Rome.
I know I said I was going to write on this here blog more often but work this year has been very hectic. Perhaps things will slow down during Spring '22! I'm not complaining as these are good problems to have, especially during these strange pandemic times.
I went to Milan last week, just overnight, for the Salone. The energy in Milan was incredible. I felt safe going to showrooms and events as there were Covid protocols in place. Milan and the surrounding area were hit hard last year and no one wants to return to a lockdown.
I'm writing this while still on a Design Week high. I went to Milan in July for work and I was finally able to visit this palazzo. It has been on my list for ages and seeing the movie IO SONO AMORE/I AM LOVE only added fuel to my desire. The full name is Villa Necchi Campiglio but most know it as Villa Necchi.
Villa Necchi was designed and built by architect Piero Portaluppi from 1932 -1935 for the owner of the Necchi company, Angelo Campiglio, his wife Gigina and his sister-in-law, Nedda. There were some modifications and additions added by Architect Tomaso Buzzi after WWII. His style was a bit more traditional and you can see the difference as you walk through the villa. The villa was occupied by the fascists during the war and the family called Architect Buzzi once they were able to finally return to their home.
It took my breath away and pictures do not do it justice. It's amazing to see how modern these rooms from the early 20th century look and feel! It takes serious talent to design spaces that are classic yet contemporary. Portaluppi and his clients were truly ahead of their time. The Necchis entertained often and the house's public areas layout reflect this. This house was THE place to be back in the day.
The family had no children and instead donated their home to the non-profit FAI, the Italian National Trust.
The home has a large private garden with a swimming pool and tennis courts. Remember this is in the center of a large city! The villa is also filled with art, mostly 18th century, including artists Canaletto, Marieschi, and Tiepolo.
Look at the ceiling in the library! That design is a Portaluppi signature and you see it employed discreetly through out the villa.
I won't say anything to spoil the film for those who haven't seen it yet but one of the most important scenes in the movie takes place in this location.
The bathrooms were to die for. Again, I couldn't believe there were built in the 1930s. The veranda was another favorite room. The furniture was original and I could see those pieces being sold today. Even the utility rooms were design heaven. The Necchi family had custom Richard Ginori dinner service. I love the design of the "C" logo.
Style/fashion lovers will get a kick out of the sisters' built-in closets. The custom pieces from Gucci, Ferragamo, and Hermès are gorgeous. Quality and design like that never goes out of style.
The guides were very helpful, bilingual and there were two or three on each floor. I cannot recommend visiting this gem enough. My pictures and videos from this fantastic tour are in my Instagram highlights.
Buon weekend!
All villa photos: Giorgio Majno, © FAI — Fondo Ambiente Italiano
Dream of Italy: Travel, Transform, and Thrive
Buongiorno from Rome!
Things have been quite hectic here even though we're in the middle of summer. I'm staying put this year. I might go away for a long weekend in late August but it depends on what's going on with this Delta variant.
The tourists are back. Not pre-pandemic number of course but what a change from a few months ago. People are so excited to be here. For those who love Italy and/or would like to do some armchair traveling, there's a special Dream of Italy episode currently airing on PBS stations nationwide (USA). It's part of their pledge season, with a notable appearance by actor Joe Mantegna, with host Kathy McCabe.
Kathy and I looking at the gorgeous architecture on Via Monserrato. One of the prettiest streets in Rome.
In this special Kathy interviewed expats/immigrants who have moved to Italy part-time or full-time. She focuses on eleven essential elements of the Italian lifestyle – the land, food, family, art & culture, beauty, pace of life, passion, movement, community, celebrations and sense of home– through our stories. Kathy discusses how one can incorporate the values, inspiration, and beauty of Italy into their lives. There are also practical tips for people who are interested in moving to Italy for a sabbatical or permanently.
Interview with Kathy at Cantiere Galla Design showroom. I spend a lot of time here for clients.
Some of the people who were interviewed (Sting, Trudie Styler, Francis Mayes, Francis Ford Coppola) are very famous. Some, ahem me, are not. We all have unique stories and experiences of how and why we came to Italy. For more information and to find the airdates for your area click HERE. At the moment it's only airing in the USA and some areas in Canada that receive PBS stations. It should be on available for international viewers in 2022.
Some BTS with friends on the rooftop terrace of Hotel de la Ville.
This special was filmed before the pandemic. I'm thrilled to be a part of this program that speaks to the wonderful things about living in Italy.
The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *
Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.
This view.
Livia getting her Prosecco on.
Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met. Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude. Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth. She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer. Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.
The lunch Violante prepared was delicious. The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous. I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.
Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.
Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.
Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.
As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.
Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.
Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.
We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.
We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.
Caffe realness.
It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.
The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.
Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.
Plate designed by Violante.
Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.
Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.
BANANAS!
Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events. For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.
*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.
Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.
I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan. I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.
Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.
It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me. However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.
My friend Marta and I met for brunch. Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10. It’s a good thing we did. The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m. The space is lovely. It’s minimalist/modern yet warm. The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful. The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.
We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.
I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.
IMG_1823.jpeg
Closed on Mondays.
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679
White Kitchens - Yes or No?
Put me firmly in the YES camp. I'm the middle of sourcing cabinets for our Anguilla Beach House Project. As I read various online design magazines and blogs, it appears that white kitchens are "out". People are sick of them. Apparently, they are boring and show no creativity.
I disagree. I strongly believe that kitchens and bathrooms are not the places to be trendy. They are the most expensive rooms to build or renovate. Twenty-four percent of Americans move to a new house every five years. In other countries people tend not to move as often. If one is worried about the resale value of their home, it would make sense to have a kitchen that is not dated.
A well-designed white kitchen is timeless. This is one reason they're so popular. One cannot tell if the kitchen was renovated five months ago or fifteen years ago. A homeowner can always swap out hardware or light fixtures to freshen things up or we can use accessories that speak to the trends of the moment. Most people cannot afford (nor want to) gut a functional kitchen just for aesthetic reasons.
White kitchens are not a trend given they've been "in" for almost two decades and were very popular in the 1920s. They are classic. Seriously, what are people smoking? I think, with the rise of social media, we're burning through trends faster. There's this need for instant gratification and always looking for something new. The thing is, most of the hot trends of today will not hold up.
To me it's more important that a workhorse room, like a kitchen, functions well. Open shelving may not be practical for some families. Maybe your kitchen isn't big enough for a massive island.
If a client wants to go with dark green cabinets, I'm all for it and we'll look for the shade that works best in the space. However, if a client wants white Shaker cabinets but worries it's too boring, we're going to get the darn Shaker cabinets. We can find other ways to add some color to the kitchen.
Content driven decorators rarely think about the architecture and/or the function of the space. Many have moved away from working with clients and instead continuously buy and flip houses. That's a very different mindset than creating a home for yourself or for a client.
As I work on this beach house kitchen, I'm mindful of the trends but we will have white Shaker cabinets as they fit the space, the location, and the architecture of the home. If the house were inland or a primary residence maybe we would chose a different color.
Here are some kitchens from talented designers and decorators. Notice that they don't look the same. I wish someone would tell them that these kitchens are boring or "so over".
This kitchen is in a 1922 Colonial that was recently renovated by interior designer, David Nastasi.
Photo: New York Magazine
Modern Farmhouse by House of Jade Interiors.
Photo. The Spruce
A villa in Tuscany designed by Ilaria Miani. The estate belonged to her grandparents and is now owned by her brother. I was one of her interns and I remember her custom Whatnot shelving well.
Photo: Elle Decor
Interior designer's Mark D. Sikes's kitchen in the Hollywood Hills.
Photo: Mark D. Sikes
A minimalist NYC kitchen. Love the terrazzo floor. Interior Design by Pierce Allen.
Photo: Elle Decor
Italian Chic - by Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla
I have written about Franco - Italian Chez Dédé before. I heard about this incredibly talented and creative couple, Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla, from the late great Wonderfool. My friend Courtney and I met the lovely Daria at the store/spa and wanted to buy all their bags.
Daria and Andrea are quite modest. I didn't learn until this year (!) that they are the ones responsible for the typography of Pasta Garofalo, one of my favorite pasta brands. Okay, now that I think about it, this isn't a topic that would come up in everyday conversation.
There was some skepticism when they first opened their store. Why Rome? Why not Florence or Milan? An atelier/boutique/gallery like Chez Dédé would make more sense in those cities. There has been a great deal of negative press (local and international) about the state of Rome these days. Yes, the situation could be better and it's important not to ignore what is happening but walking into their shop is a much needed reminder of the reasons why we fell in love this city and country in the first place.
Their book ITALIAN CHIC is a must for anyone who loves Italy, photography, illustrations, or/and travel. It's not a guide book per se but more of a coffee table book filled with beautiful imagery. It was just published by Assouline and is available at their shops or online. The Chez Dédé store has a few limited edition copies left with a special cover featuring my beloved Sicily.
Photographed by Daria and illustrated by Andrea, ITALIAN CHIC is an intimate peek at some of their favorite places in Italy, from top to bottom. It's a love letter of sorts to a country that has inspired them. As Daria and Andrea said to Architectural Digest, “If we were not in Italy, then Chez Dédé simply would not exist,” Reina says. “We are both in love with Italy and the Italian lifestyle is certainly an integral part of our entire creative process.” Ferolla adds, “Italy cultivates the excellence of the ‘well done’ and of the simple and sophisticated style. Daria and I are heirs of this culture that reflects in each and every expression of Chez Dédé’s creative thinking.”
Daria and Andrea will be in New York City the week of October 14th for book signings. There will be an installation of Andrea's illustrations in one of Bergdorf Goodman's famous windows. Check their Instagram feed for more information (and because it's fantastic).
Photos (except for the cover): Assouline
September!
I hope everyone had a wonderful summer.Yes, I know technically it's still summer despite the fact that some retailers in the States are already selling Spiced Pumpkin Latte mixes and there are bloggers talking about Halloween.
I don't understand this rush. Let's enjoy this month and getting ready for fall. This is my favorite time of year/season. Not that I dislike the other three (well maybe winter, lack of sun and daylight is not my scene) but there's something about fall that makes me happy. I was one of those geeky kids who couldn't wait to buy back-to-school supplies. In my young mind there weren't many things more exciting that a Mead Trapper Keeper notebook.
Unfortunately, back-to-school shopping for clothes wasn't as fun as my Caribbean mom was not about that life. Every time I asked for something that EVERYONE was wearing, my mom would say that I was going to school to get an education, not for a fashion show. My dad backed her up as he didn't know (or care) about the difference between Girbaud, or Guess, jeans and a random pair from wherever.
I still look at fall as a beginning even though I graduated from college back in the Stone Age. Like spring, it's an opportunity to hit the reset button.
One of the color trends for Fall 2018 is this deep blue called Sargasso Sea.
Photo: Pantone
I’m feeling this cape but I might be too short for this lewk. Love the pop of color from Ms. Palermo’s shoes. Great combo.
Photo: Olivia Palermo, Refinery 29
This classic pattern from Schumacher is an excellent example of Hollywood Regency glamour.
There are so many beautiful colors to choose from but this one is in my top three, okay five.
Photo: Le Creuset
I cannot write about September without listening to this old school favorite. It dropped in 1978 and if you play it at any wedding reception, party, or cookout now people will still dance.
Here's to a great fall!
p.s. Here's a fantastic piece from NPR regarding why this song is so popular years later.
I asked Jeffrey Peretz, a professor of music theory at New York University's Clive Davis Institute, what makes that groove so powerful. He says a lot of it has to do with how the music unfolds. The song's very structure is an endless cycle that keeps us dancing and wanting more."
There's four chords in the chorus that just keep moving forward and never seem to land anywhere — much like the four seasons," he says. "It's the end of summer, it's the beginning of fall, it's that Indian summertime, it's the transition from warm to cool."
The trigger for that yearning feeling, Peretz says, is the opening line. White asks, "Do you remember?" and we supply the memories. It's a song that can bring all of the generations together, which makes it perfect for family gatherings. The true meaning is up to us — including, Allee Willis says, that strangely specific date."
We went through all the dates: 'Do you remember the first, the second, the third, the fourth ... ' and the one that just felt the best was the 21st," Willis explains. "I constantly have people coming up to me and they get so excited to know what the significance was. And there is no significance beyond it just sang better than any of the other dates. So ... sorry!"
The Design Files - Beautiful Plates from Pastificio Gentile
Recently I was in Umbria at my friend’s Elizabeth and Domenico’s house and I posted this photo on Instagram.
This view, tho!
Quite a few people DM’d, or emailed, me to ask where the plates were from.
I remembered Elizabeth’s Instastories from when she visited Pastificio Gentile and seeing the plates. This family owned company has been making pasta since 1876. Elizabeth wrote this post using their pasta to make two zucchini recipes.
Pasitifico Gentile also sells exclusive handcrafted plates painted by artist Rosalinda Acampora. I thought the blue and yellow ones were lemons at first. They’re yellow tomatoes (and on my wish list). Wait, all of these are on my list!
I’ve read that bloggers have ruined Chevron forever but I don’t care. This plate is fantastic.
Click here to see the rest of their selection.
Elizabeth’s new book, THE ITALIAN TABLE, will be released Spring 2019. I cannot wait to read it.
This is her table setting for a simple lunch. It was beautiful and delicious. I love how Elizabeth mixed patterns. The key is the color palette.
Table photos: Me and my iPhone
Plate photos: Pastificio Gentile
The Design Files - A Beautiful Colonial Renovation
I published a post earlier this year regarding how traditional interiors are “in” again. I don’t think they were ever out but I’m thrilled to see color and patterns celebrated again.
I recently read about this gorgeous renovation in New York Magazine. I enjoyed The Cut Wendy Goodman’s interesting and informative interview with Interior Designer David Nastasi and his husband Michael Stone.
The couple bought the 1922 Colonial in 2014 and started the renovations a year later. It was a lot of work as the house hadn’t been touched for decades. It was important to the new owners to keep the elegant architecture of the house while updating it for the way we live today.
It’s a stunner.
Can we talk about this entrance?! I’m not the biggest Fornasetti fan. I like it in small doses BUT their Nuvolette wallpaper from Cole & Son? Cannot get enough of it. Cannot. This is a bold choice for a traditional home. I love it.
More wallpaper to love in the dining room. It’s from the Spanish brand, Gaston y Daniela.
I’m writing a separate post about white kitchens. There is nothing dated about this one. All these windows. The mix of modern and traditional. This is a kitchen I could spend hours in.
To seem more of this wonderful renovation, the article is HERE.
Photographs by Genevieve Garruppo
Palazzo Merulana, Rome
I noticed this large abandoned palazzo when I first moved to Rome. I wondered what the history of the building was and why it was falling apart.I found out that it was a city owned property built in 1929. It used to be the headquarters for the Health Administration. Once those offices moved, the building fell into disrepair with some sections abandoned for over sixty years.Palazzo Merulana reopened last month and it's a beauty. Stunning.The renovations took only three years and was a private-public partnership. The space now holds the important collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi. The couple focused on works created in the early 20th century, with the majority between WW 1 and WW 2. The Cerasi family owns a prominent construction company that has worked on projects such as the MAXXI Museum and other public and private works.The Cerasi Foundation would like to see the Palazzo become an important space for visual art, cinema, music, and theatre. They're working closely with several local cultural orgnaizaions. This is quite a gift to the city.A ticket to see the exhibit is four euros. There's a small, charming cafe on the ground and outdoor seating on the patio. The terrace is schedule to open in mid-July and the top floor is reserved for cultural events. 
Here is a short clip about the museum.https://youtu.be/SHw3vc-5fq0 The museum's in a very accessible location. It's about a ten minute walk from the Colosseum with easy access to the Metro and the Tram.121 Via Merulana, 00185, Rome
The Design Files - Ristorante Local, Venice
Yes, it's true that Venice has many tourist trap restaurants. Tourist traps don't care about the quality of their food (and love to over charge people) as it's a volume business, especially from the mega cruise ships. They will never see those tourists again and locals would never eat there.Do not let the bad press discourage you. There are fantastic places to eat in Venice! The restaurant Local is one of them. I'm not going to write about the food though (which was delicious) but about the interior design and overall vibe.The restaurant was opened in 2016 by brother and sister, Benedetta and Luca Fullin. The space used to be an electrical shop. It's located in the Castello neighborhood between Piazza San Marco and The Arsenale.The design like, the cuisine, is inspired by local traditional Venice but with a touch of modern international flavors.I spoke with Benedetta during our trip last month and she told they used local artisans to make, by hand, everything from the floors, to the dishes, to the lighting, etc.I absolutely love the Venetian Terrazzo floors.
They were poured by hand and hold over five thousand murrine, which were handmade in Murano. The oak table, chairs, and wine cellar were made by Pasquini Marino.The open planned kitchen is inviting. It's not a cheap restaurant (our meals were included so checked prices online) but it's not stuffy either.
The restaurant sits on a side canal, light pours in.
Local frequently showcases art, with a focus on emerging talent, from the Contini Art Gallery.It's not easy to find the right balance in a historic, popular tourist destination like Venice. Do you completely erase the past in order to stay current, or go in the opposite extreme? Local feels very much of its time and its location. I'm not a fan of eating in a restaurant that looks and feels generic. We eat with our eyes as well and the interior design and ambience of a restaurant shouldn't be overlooked. Living in Los Angeles, sometimes we had the reverse situation, gorgeous spaces that were very "in" but the food was indifferent to inedible.Twelve years had passed between my two trips to Venice. That's ridiculous. I'd like to return sooner rather than later. I look forward to returning to Local, grabbing a seat at the bar, and trying their cicchetti.
First photo and the last two photos: Me and my iPhone. Other photos: Ristorante Local
La Biennale Venice - 2018
My friend Erica invited me to join her on a press trip for the preview of the 16th Architecture Biennale. I haven't been to any of the Biennale. I follow the art, cinema, and architecture ones on social media but it's not the same.
My first (and last) trip to Venice was twelve years ago, late November. Even during off-season, the crowds in the Piazza San Marco area were quite large. The experience did not prepare for last week. More on that later.We were in Venice for only two days/one night. I would love to return to see the Pavilions I missed. Erica has a great write-up on her Instastories.Normally, we'd take a train from Rome but we had to get there in time for the press conference so we placed on a 7:00 am flight. A private boat picked us up. Not a bad way to enter the city. We had a few minutes before the press conference and met the other journalists/architects and their guests. It was a small group, only twelve of us, half were from Milan. Our hosts were wonderful and, my fellow Americans will feel me on this, I couldn't get over how organized everything was. One of the hosts flew from Milan to Rome to meet us on the flight to make sure things were on point.The theme this year is Freespace. The curators are architects Yvonne Farrel and Shelley McNamara of Grafton Architects.
After the press conference we walked over to Local, which was fantastic. It's owned by siblings Benedetta and Luca Fillun and used to be an electrical shop. I spoke more Italian in a day than I have in probably two months.We returned to the Arsenale for a guided tour of the Corderie. From there we were able to see a few pavilions before going to the hotel to check in. My favorite pavilions were the Kosovo, Canada, Italy, Bahrain, Italy, and Croatia Pavilions. I wish I had more time to spend in each one.
Erica and I decided to walk toward Piazza San Marco instead taking the boat. I was NOT READY. Remember, I've never been to Venice during high season. The crowds were on another level. I keep reading about the crowd situation but it's another thing to experience it. 28 million tourists visit Venice a year. Only 55,000 people live in Venice full-time, down from 175,000 post WWII, with around 2000 leaving every single year. AirBnB has pushed the rents sky high, and mass tourism from mega cruise ships turn streets into packed corridors during the day and desolate at night. I don't know what the answer is but this type of tourism is not sustainable.We stayed at the Bauer Palazzo and I was happily surprised to see that we had a terrace. The service was impeccable. It could be because we were with a group of journalists and architects.
As we unpacked and got ready for aperitivi I noticed a chic terrace, a floor higher, on the building next door. I asked the bartender if it was a hotel bar. He said no they were preparing for a private party. I had no idea it was the party we were going to attended. It was a little overwhelming. There was were heavy hitters from the design/architect world and folks were not playing sartorially. The Hugos, and views, were divine.
Post- reception, we had dinner on the patio of the hotel with canal view. During dinner I hear suddenly heard loud gasps. I looked to my left and saw a mega cruise ship rolling into the canal. It dwarfed the buildings. I have no words. Perhaps I'm hyper sensitive to these ships as I've seen what they've done to the quality of life for residents of the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten. I strongly believe the cons outweigh the pros.I woke up at the crack of dawn to jog and it was glorious. The city was quiet, with Venetians going to open their shops and getting ready for the new day. There were a few other tourists out jogging and some taking photos. I got lost in the side streets running toward the Rialto bridge. I didn't mind. It's surreal to be in a city where there are no cars, buses, etc. everything is brought in, and leaves, by boat. I understand why this special city has inspired writers, artists, and artisans for generations. It's a damn shame that it's being destroyed.
Erica and I had a delicious breakfast on the Bauer's rooftop terrace. We were picked up (on time!) and took a our boat to the Giardini (the gardens) to see more pavilions.
We had a guided tour of the Main Pavilion. I highly recommend checking it out. There was a very interesting scale of the NYC Project, one for a Los Angeles project, and several short films. Then we were on our own to see the rest. I have to say, I was fading fast. There was so much to take in. I missed many pavilions that I wanted to see, like Switzerland, and Antique & Barbuda. There wasn't enough time. Of the ones I made it to, America, Nordic (Finland, Norway, Sweden), Russia, France, were stand outs. I loved the roof top deck of Great Britain and France's wine set-up was very clever.
The Russian theme was about train travel and how the largest country in the world is impacted by it. There are areas that are inaccessible by train and the country spans a few timezones, There was a short film, SEVEN DAYS IN SEVEN MINUTES, regarding a man's 9,300km/5780 miles train journey to Siberia. The Pavilion was transformed into a train station with several multimedia exhibits.The Nordic Pavilion dwelt with climate change. Visually this was one of the most interesting pavilions. The large balloons inflated and deflated depending on changing environmental conditions.The American theme was Dimensions of Citizenship, which really resonated with me. There was a fascinating short film, IN PLAIN SIGHT, that used data from global space sensors showing us how humans have organized our planet. It touched on last year's hurricane season and the difference between Houston's recovering and Puerto Rico's. I was blown away by the places that had large population but no lights, and other spots with a large electrical grid but it was used only for tourists or farming.We ended our trip with an delicious outdoor lunch at Corte Sconta. Corte Sconta means, "hidden courtyard". Our meals were included in the trip so I cannot tell you how the prices were. I get the sense that Corte Sconta was the pricier of the two but it wasn't stuffy.It was hot and walking over ten miles in one day got the best of me. By the time I had to meet our group, I was completely exhausted not really physically but it was information overload. It was a lot to process.It's an incredible experience and it was unique to have these conversations in a city like Venice. I was inspired by the architects and designers I met, the Pavilions, and of course the city itself. Grazie mille, Erica.To see more photos and videos from our short trip, I've saved them in my Instastories.The 16th International Architecture Exhibition runs until November 25th, 2018.
Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun
The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.
Michelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point. However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes. We took it.It was great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town. The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day. It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday. Our day trip was the perfect time to go. It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.
Montepuclciano has a population of about 14,000. It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.
As you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town. Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square. The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511. The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.
We ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano. We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria. The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee. Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do. These views are worth the price
I must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio. The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
The Design Files - Something's Gotta Give, Fifteen Years Later
I follow writer/director Nancy Meyers on Instagram. She recently published a post regarding the upcoming fifteenth anniversary of her film. I cannot believe it's been that long since the release of one of the best interior design films ever produced. Yes, I know the movie isn't about interior design but the production design was so exquisite that years later the interiors, by Production Designer, Jon Hutman and Set Decorator, Beth Rubino, look as lovely as ever.I was speaking with a Kitchen & Bath interior designer and she said that her clients are still referencing the kitchen. Creating interiors that are timeless, yet fresh, isn't easy.The interiors help us get a sense of who Erica Barry is. She's a very successful woman of a certain age (56), who has completely shut down in the romance department. This was one of Diane Keaton's best roles. Jack Nicholson was fantastic as well. These type of sharp comedic roles are not easy and Jack's Harry Sanborn character, in particular, was complicated. We were rooting for Erica from the get go. Harry, if played by a lesser actor, may have come across as a complete cad, a boring cliché of a man in his mid 60s chasing after women more than half his age. Jack and Diane had great chemistry. You can't manufacture magic.This movie had it all. I wish Hollywood would make more romantic comedies about and for adults. I keep hearing and reading this genre is dead, at least for feature films. This is unfortunate. The world needs more romance!For now, let us enjoy this beautiful home. The exterior was from a real home in Southhampton. The interiors were built on a sound stage.For more information regarding sourcing and how the interiors were created, check out Interior Designer Linda Merrill's post.
Photos: Modern Country Style except where noted.
The Design Files - The Authentics
The Authentics: A Lush Dive into the Substance of Style by Melanie Acevedo & Dara Caponigro, is gorgeous book that takes us into the beautiful homes of dynamic people who work in a variety of creative fields.
Ms. Acevedo is a well known photographer. Ms. Caponigro was one of the founders of DOMINO magazine and is currently the Creative Director of F. Schumacher & Co., the legendary fabric, wallpaper, and rug company.This is a book I will reference time and time again. Some of the names are famous in the design world, like Kelly Wearstler, Miles Redd, and Nicky Haslam, or celebrities such as actress Peggy Lipton and hair stylist Sally Hershberger. There are landscape architects, jewelry designers, chefs, etc. All have an unique point of view.Some of the rooms or gardens might be a bit "much" but I love that in a homogenized world there are people who surround themselves with things that they enjoy regardless of popularity.
Visually, this coffee table book is a knockout. It has thick quality paper and is beautifully photographed.The interviews with these talented creative people were very inspiring. It's easy, thanks to social media, to see the same images again and again. At first everyone is excited and then the same people start to complain that the image is played or trite. The Authentics create their spaces in a way that speaks to their interests, loves, and passions. That approach will never go out of style. 
Design Inspiration - Palazzo Reale, Naples, Italy
The Royal Palace of Naples is a must on my list of things to do in Naples. I wasn't able to visit until my third trip and now I want to return just so I could spend more time there.The audio tour is interesting and informative. Palazzo Reale is one of four royal palaces in and near Naples. Construction, with prominent architect Domenico Fontana, started in the 17th century by the Spanish Viceroys initially as a home to host the visiting King of Spain. He never came (so rude!) and the palace eventually became the home of various rulers, including the Bourbons and the Savoys. The Kingdom of Naples was fought over by the French and Spain for centuries. At times the Kingdom included most of southern Italy, and Sicily.The Palace was expanded over the years. Napoleon's sister, Caroline, lived in the Palace with her husband Joachim Murat (aka the Dandy King) who was the King from 1808-1815.The building suffered extensive damage from bombing during WWII but was restored.Below is the main staircase. It was very cloudy and overcast when I arrived. I still gasped when I walked in and saw this space. Pictures do not do it justice.
View from the top of the stairs.
This ceiling is unreal.
Close up of another ceiling. Gorgeous.
This floor tho.
How nice to have your own theatre.
And your own chapel.
A less ornate space. Love the simplicity of this light fixture.
Love this ceiling too. I chuckle when I hear the color grey is too trendy so now it needs to be over. I disagree. It's a classic.
The ballroom.
It was starting to clear up as I walked out. There's a view of the sea from several of the rooms but it was hard to get a photo without the scaffolding. The gardens are not public but there is an interior courtyard with a fountain.
Photos: me and my iPhone
Polignano a Mare, Puglia - Italy
One of the highlights of my retreat in Puglia with Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga, was our day trip to Polignano a Mare.There are not enough adjectives to describe how beautiful it was, so I hope my photos will help.Polignano a Mare is an approximately forty minute drive from Bari. It's the birthplace of singer Domenico Modugno, known for a little song called Volare. The Historic Center sits on a 20 meters/65 feet limestone cliff. We entered through the main Porta Vecchia gate and happily got lost in the winding streets until lunch time.What a lunch it was. I heard that Ristorante Grotta Palazzese was about the views and not so much the food. Our lunch was delicious. That could be due to the newish chef. The views are spectacular. I thought the service was great but we had a fixed menu and it wasn't too crowded. We were there during the off season. Reservations are a must during the high season and I've read it's quite pricey, especially for dinner.After lunch several of us walked back down to the sea. Two women in our group decided to go in for a dip. An older local gentleman was scandalized to see them walking into the sea with their clothes on. He was concerned they would catch a cold or something wearing wet jeans.
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
The Design Files - Interior Design Master Class
Edited by Carl Dellatore, INTERIOR DESIGN MASTER CLASS: 100 Lessons From America's Finest Designers On The Art of Decoration, is an outstanding book.Although it's geared towards students of design and professionals, this book would appeal to anyone who's curious about interiors.The book is divided into six sections: theory, structure, style, process, elements, and inspiration. Within these sections, A-list interior designers and decorators discuss everything from floor plans, lighting, comfort, color, texture, etc. etc. This insightful peek into their process, inspiration, and interiors is a real treat. The designers range from well-established legends of the industry to the new guard.MASTER CLASS is packed with useful information and it's also gorgeous. I loved it.This book will be a classic. 
"See Naples and Die."
This is a phrase coined in the mid-1800s during the reign of the Bourbons. At the time Naples was the third most populous city in Europe after London and Paris. It was also one of the wealthiest.I prefer to agree with the original meaning of the phrase and not the "if you go to Naples you will die because it's so dangerous" image the city had for years.I first went to Naples in 2007 on a day trip during my second trip to Italy. I met the lovely Tracie P, then know as Tracie B. I don't believe that was almost eleven years ago! My last trip to Naples was with Erica in 2009. I thought it was four years ago at most.I cannot tell you how many people back then worried for my safety when I told them I was going to Naples. One friend said he hated the place as he was mugged literally five minutes after he walked out of the main train station. Naples was mentioned in the international press mostly for its pizza, the mafia, and a major garbage problem. During both trips I could count the number of American tourists on one hand. One famous guidebook said if Rome was overwhelming, don't go further south. Naples is Rome squared.I loved the energy of Naples during those early trips, even with the garbage situation. There's no place like it. It reminded me a little of pre-Disneyfied New York City.Not sure what the heck took me so long to return but I was shocked at the change. The city is cleaner than Rome. There are more American tourists. Fuelled in part by the popoluarity of the Ferrante book series, the international press is writing about the great things happening in Naples. Naples is "in". Are there still problems, yes. I recommend using the same precautions you would in any major, densely populated city. Leave the fancy watches, rings, etc at home or in your hotel safe.I wasn't as overwhelmed during this trip. It could be because I live in a walking city again whereas during my the first trip i was coming from Los Angeles where your car is a cocoon. I'd visited the archeological museum and Castel Nuovo on those trips. I wanted to see a few places I missed.My first stop was the Museo Capella Sansevero. You buy your ticket (€7) at the small nearby center/office . There was a long line to enter but it moved quickly. You cannot take any photos inside. It's not the easiest to find. It's on a small side street but my Google maps was on point.This is a church I would return to again, maybe in the dead of winter/off season so I could have more time to take it all in. I now understand why the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino is considered one of the most incredible sculptures in the world.I know this is all marble yet I have a hard time believing it.
Prince Raimondo di Sangro commissioned the young Sanmartino to create this work for his family's chapel. The Prince was a well-known alchemist and bold experimentalist. There are several other incredible works in the chapel inculding a poignant Pudicizia by Antonio Corradini, whose veiled female figure next to a cracked plaque, honors Raimondo's mother, Cecilia Gaetani d’Aquila d’Aragona. He was only 11 months old when she died.
There's a little room downstairs. Folks, once I descended down the narrow iron staircase I was shook. There are two skeletins, a man and a woman. They are encased in what looks like perfectly preserved human arterial systems. Over two centuries ago, Dr. Giuseppe Salerno from Palermo, along with the Prince, created theses anatomical works. There were/are all kinds of rumors as to how these bodies came to be. Word was that the Prince killed members of his staff, injecting them with liquid while they were still alive. Others said the arterial systems are reproductions. They are fascinating and creepy. No Google search for photos. Nope. Cannot. 
I got lost and went into many churches as I made my way to the restaurant Antica Osteria Pisano. Thanks for the suggestion, Gina. The restaurant is in the Historic Center on the cusp of the Forcella neightbhood. If you've watched the third season of GOMORRA you're familiar with this mural of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples.
I asked about the pasta of the day. It was Rigatoni alla Bolognese. I was skeptical about ordering this dish outside of Bologna but Gennaro (one of the owners) told me it was delicious. He was correct.I walked off my pasta getting lost on the way to Palazzo Reale. I had the palace on my list but never made it during my last two trips.I listened to the audioguide. I highly recommend it as the history of this palace is fascinating. The palace suffered some major damage during WWII but you can still get a sense of the wealth and presitage of the era.Located in Piazza del Plebiscito, the outside is understated. I was not prepared for this.
Or this.
I was overwhelmed by the beauty and will have to write a seperate post about the interiors and history of this palace.The seafront is very close to this piazza, just down the hill. I decided to walk along the sea on my way to the Chiaia neighborhood. A large section of the Lungamare is a car-free zone. This was started in 2012 and what a great idea. People, mostly locals, were out and about enjoying the sunny weather. There are plenty of caffes and restaurants
I didn't get to spend much time in the Chiaia area because I had to catch my return train. Chiaia is an upscale neighborhood where you find your luxury local shops and some of the international brands like Prada. I popped into a small enoteca, Belledonne, for a glass of wine. It was excellent and €6.I made my way to the closet Metro stop. I found the signage a little confusing but asked for directions.I took the fast Italo train. It's only an hour and usually there are great deals during the week for same day travel. I really need to spend more time in Naples.Photos: Me and my iPhone unless noted