I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.
I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy. I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy. I couldn't wait to leave both times. The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me. Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work. My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage? I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place. I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets. It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch. He couldn't have cared less. Our mutual friend, had the same experience. She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence. She told me I needed to return to the city. That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip. My friends who live in Florence said the same thing. I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about. August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.
No, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi). It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence. In my defense, I wasn't the only one. A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell. She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students. Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then. How could it be? I was there for four days max. They live there. They know Florence. Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time. I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed. Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop. I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno". He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me. Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return. I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains. Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto. Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year. I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money. I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy. These ravioli were light and delicious. The waiters were lovely. It was the perfect birthday lunch.
I met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede. She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company. I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto. It's my kind of place. I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos. I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards. Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.
I met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning. Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence. Currently, she lives in Florence full-time. The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago. We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day. It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in. I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.
This was my first time visiting the church San Spirito. No pictures are allowed inside. Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.
Georgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there. We did. The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.
I went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat. The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy. I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel. It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center. The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.
I took the fast train home. Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.
There are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence. Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit. If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip. A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met. I cannot wait to return.
Photos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.
Life in Rome - Mini-break at Le Méridien Visconti Hotel
One of my friends, who owns a boutique travel agency in Italy, told me that finding four star hotels in Rome is difficult. She said there are great options at the five-star high-end level and at the economical end but there are too many four-stars that are really a three- star at best.Enter Le Méridien. The Starwood Group recently added the Visconti Hotel to its portfolio. The hotel officially reopened this June after a twenty million dollar renovation.I had the opportunity to stay at the hotel for two nights. Before my stay I read reviews online because I'm anal. The reviews were very good except for two things, the air conditioning and the WiFi.Given my stay was happening during one of the worst heatwaves in history and I had several work deadlines, I was concerned.They must have fixed these issues as I'm happy to report I had no problems. In fact the A/C was so strong I had to turn it off. My fellow Americans, you know that NEVER happens in Italy.The hotel is located in Prati. It's a few minutes walk from Piazza Cavour and in the other direction (a slightly longer walk), Piazza del Popolo. I think it's a perfect location. You're near the Historic Center but not smack in the middle of it and the prices reflect this. The area is centrally located as Piazza Cavour is a major bus hub. For those who like to walk, you can cross the river and be in the heart of the Historic Center in ten minutes.The roof terrace is fantastic. Sometimes there are annoying loud seagulls who like to wait for people to leave and then dive in for the food. The waiters are on top of it though. Seagulls 0.
Service was great. Granted some of the employees at the hotel have seen me a few times but that wasn't the case with the check-in. I thought they were friendly. There was a small line when I arrived but it moved quickly.Location, price, design, of course all these things matter but when I stay in a hotel there are two things that are extremely important to me. Cleanliness. I cannot stand clutter and dirty bathrooms or kitchens freak me out. I don't want to step into a hotel bathroom and see hair in the drain. Just typing that made me feel queasy. The other thing is the bed. It must be comfortable.My room was spotless and the bed was excellent. The toiletries are Malin & Goetz. I was so geeked out to see them because no retailer in Rome sells these products. I checked the website and there is a store in Milan that carries them. I muust remember this important information for my next trip.
The interior design has mid-century touches that also speak to the hotel's location in the Eternal City. The head designer was Harry Gregory of the firm, ara Design International. They wanted to create something timeless.I adore the pared down use of marble, a material synonymous with Italy and Rome. I think too much marble can make an interior feel cold. At the Le Méridien it's warm and dramatic.The neutrals of grey, black, and white, with splashes of color, are relaxing and chic. The Longitude 12 Bar and Bistrot is a great place for a coffee during the day and for cocktails at night. The Bistrot also has a delicious lunch and dinner menu and starts serving wine around noon.In the Bistrot there's a communal table that has outlets for your laptop and phone adapters.
Downstairs, there was a wide selection for breakfast, including American bacon. I repeat, there was American bacon.
The hotel has an eclectic art collection, from abstract to figurative pieces, created with different materials. These artworks are from the private collection of the Toti family. Their collection focuses on Italian artists from the 1980s. When people think of Rome they often focus on classical art. It's wonderful to see some contemporaries pieces as well.
The gym is small but well-equipped with Technogym equipment. Did you know Technogym was an Italian company? I saw this brand in high-end gyms in New York City and Los Angeles and had no idea until I moved to Italy. Mind blown.I stayed at the hotel in early August but have been stopping by since April. This is not official market research but it seems to me that the hotel is very popular with couples, families, business travelers, and friends traveling together. I didn't see too many solo vacation travelers but I've always felt welcomed thanks to the friendly service.Photos: Me and my iPhone. Disclaimer: I was a guest of the hotel. However, opinions and thoughts are my own.
Eat, Pray, Move - Tuscany
I stopped practicing yoga over fifteen years ago after I seriously injured my right wrist. I was taking "Power Yoga" classes and I don't think I paid enough attention to what was going on with my body.I couldn't focus long enough in class. My mind was always racing, thinking about all the things I had to do or didn't do. The injury was a convenient excuse to say, "arriverderci" to yoga.I've known Erin for over eleven years. We met via our former blogs before meeting in person and we moved to Italy at the same time. Erin was on a sabbatical in Florence for a year or so and then moved back to the States. She returned frequently and we would always try to see each other. I remember when she started Eat, Pray, Move, Yoga seven years ago. She began with one retreat in Tuscany and over the years has added more locations. In 2014 she left her corporate job and now she holds on average sixteen retreats in nine countries, Italy (multiple locations) France, Spain, Croatia, Iceland, Morocco, Indonesia, India, and Japan. The latter she added this year.It's very inspiring to see how Erin has built this wonderful life and business from scratch. She has tapped into something very special.Last month I had the opportunity to see, in person, what Erin's accomplished. I was worried about the yoga. I had asked her in the past if it would bad form to go to a yoga retreat and pass on doing the yoga (ha). Erin assured me that all levels (including those with no experience) were welcome and that participation in all activities was optional.It was an incredible experience and I'm already planning my next retreat. This retreat was yoga and art. It was held at a country house right on the border of Tuscany and Umbria. I took the train into Chiusi, where I met the other participants. Julian and Erin picked us up.The house, Siliano Alto, is part of the “Le Coste” Estate (a 1500 acre protected nature and hunting reserve), and dates back to around 1760. Other sections were added in the 19th and 20th centuries. During the Second World War the house was used as a billet for German soldiers until it suffered a direct hit on the front side from an American bombing raid. After the War, the house was home to the farmers who worked on the estate. Five separate families lived upstairs and cows, horses and pigs were kept in the cantinas below. Julian and his family moved to the property in 2006 and began a two-year restoration project before opening up for art courses.
The location was wonderful with beautiful views and incredible sunsets. I was told that some wild boars were hanging out by our doors during the first night. I didn't hear them, which is a good thing.
I appreciated this welcome aperitivi.
During the welcome Erin went over the week's schedule was (there was a print out as well). I couldn't stay the entire week because of a work commitment back in Rome. There's plenty of free time built into the schedule. Breakfast and dinners are included, along with some lunches.The food is vegetarian and delicious. I didn't miss eating meat or fish at all. If you must get your meat-eating on, it's possible to so during the lunches that are not provided.
Erin is a certified yoga instructor and the morning classes usually start at 8:00 a.m. and last an hour and fifteen minutes. I'll be honest, I was struggling to get through our first class. I kept thinking about how hungry I was, Idris Elba, and work stuff. I couldn't get it together. Erin was great, checking our poses. If there was one movement that was too difficult for some of us in the class, she would suggest an easier one. The next day my abs were on fire.
The second day I had some fruit before class and made more of an effort to focus. Anytime I felt my mind starting to race again, I pumped the brakes. By the time I left the retreat, I was able to make through an entire class without any distractions.The non-yoga part of the retreat was fantastic as well. We visited the town of Chiusi where Julian, who is an artist and art teacher, gave us an excellent tour. We had pizza in town with the perfect crust. We also drove to the small borgo of Panicale and had a fun wine and olive oil tasting.
The next day was our day trip to Siena. I visited Siena during my second vacation to Italy. I had my guide-book and everything but I learned a lot more about the Duomo and the town with Julian. He went into detail regarding how the Plague impacted the city. Seven out of ten Sienese died.The Duomo is breathtaking. What Julian said about the cathedral architects of that era was profound. The architects were designing buildings that would be finished long after they died. They knew they would never see them completed. Very different from these McMansiony times.
On my last day we had an art class. We did several drawing exercises. Later, during our free time, several of us took advantage of the watercolor paints in the studio.
That day we also had a pasta making class. I haven't made pasta from scratch in years. I need to do it more often. The pasta was ridiculously good. All of us had seconds.
In the afternoon we went to Cortona. Of course we had to stop by Bramasole.
I can see why so many of the participants are repeaters. It's a genius way to travel, especially if you're a solo traveler. The retreats are small and personal. Yet, there's plenty of alone time if you need it.Since the retreat I've been trying to practice yoga at least three times a week. My friends, who are very serious about it, recommended a few beginner videos to me. It's a great way to start my day (good thing I saw 45's unhinged press conference this morning after yoga). I say this as someone who is not crunchy. I still don't understand what the heck is going on with this bulletproof Matcha tea craze.One of Erin's goals when she started Eat, Pray, Yoga, was to find a way to include charitable work. You can read more about the organizations they collaborate with here.
Life in Rome - Centrale Montemartini Museum, an Ancient and Modern Mix
This museum is not in the Historic Center but located in the dynamic and funky Ostiense neighborhood. It has been on my list for years and I finally visited it recently with my friend, Marta. We loved it.I saw a spread in American Vogue that had used the museum as a backdrop, so I thought I had an idea of what to expect.I was wrong. The museum is located inside a former power plant that was built in 1912. The plant closed during the early '60s. In 1997 the city used the abandoned space to temporarily house works from the Capitoline Museums, which were under renovation. Thankfully, the Cultural Minister had the idea to permanently convert the structure into a museum. Many of the pieces in the museum were excavated during the late 1900's and the 1930's.I found out after we left that I have personal connected to the museum. The Vignacce Marsyas piece was excavated during a 2009 dig in Villa delle Vignacce directed by my friend, Dr. Darius Arya. It's believed to have been the work of artisans from the early 2nd century. Thanks for the scoop, Erica!The space alone is worth a trip and the artwork inside is very interesting as well. I think this museum would appeal to young children too, especially if they’re into big machines.The museum was practically empty the afternoon we were there. We saw two artists sketching the mosaic floors and there was a small film crew setting up a shoot as we left. That’s it. Rome residents get a discounted ticket, so bring your I.D.It’s close to the one of the best pasty shops in Rome, Andreotti, and not far from a large EATALY. There’s excellent street art in the area. If you’re looking for something off the beaten path, this is museum is perfect. I've read some reviews from tourists who say the area is "sketchy." Perhaps this is the reason the museum is underrated? It's a shame as I think it's a good idea to get away from the crowds sometimes.
Via Ostiense 106Tel. +39 06 39967800Website www.centralemontemartini.orgOpen Tuesday to Sunday 9:00-19:00. Closed Mondays and some public holidays.Cash only.
A Weekend in Tuscany's Val d'Orcia Region
The Val d'Orcia region of Tuscany is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Located south of Siena, it's home to some of the most gorgeous vistas in Italy. I cannot wait to return.The first night we stayed at La Bandita.
We arrived just in time to drive back down the steep hill to have lunch at Dopolavoro. Originally built by the Origo family in 1939, it was the meeting place for the workers on the La Foce estate. Dopo lavoro, translated to English, means after work. During the war locals came to watch news reels. The Origo family still owns the La Foce estate and opened the restaurant (after a lengthy restoration) in 2012.
Our lunch was excellent. Annalee doesn't eat meat and found plenty of dishes to choose from (not so easy in Tuscany). The restaurant has a large vegetable garden and uses olive oil from the estate. On a design note, it was perfection. Great service too.
We decide to take a power walk before dinner. I'm relieved we missed the family of boars spotted by the other guests. I don't know why boars freak me out. Maybe because they're wild animals and the adults are massive? I love being out in country but not really a fan of bugs, snakes, and such. I know this is not logical.
During dinner we met an American couple and a young couple from Poland who had recently become engaged. We had a wonderful time. The conversation flowed and the food prepared by Chef Dario was delicious. You never know with communal dining. I got a little nervous once politics came up but it was fine. Most of our discussion centered around, food/wine, travel, and the places we've visited so far in Italy.It began to rain so we couldn't light the large fire pit. Tears. Instead we went old school and played records. John, the co-owner of La Bandita, is a former music industry executive and has quite the eclectic collection of vinyl. I found an Earth, Wind, and Fire LP and it was a wrap. EW&F is one of my favorite bands. I side-eye people who tell me they dislike them as their catalogue is pretty deep. Perhaps they do not like music, period. Or maybe they don't like R&B or soul/funk? I met a person who told me they couldn't stand EW&F. This person was also a black American Gen-Xer. I was so shook, I didn't even know to say.I cracked up when Annalee started line dancing with Chef Dario and his colleague Paolo. It was the perfect way to end a spectacular day.The next morning, I woke up at my usual time and watched the sun rise. All I could hear were sheep and roosters in the distance. Paradise.
During my run before breakfast, I was trying to figure out when I could return La Bandita.
We decided to have lunch at the Countryhouse before driving to the Townhouse in Pienza as it was the nicest day of the weekend. It was delicious, and very pretty.
I've been to Pienza before but it was Annalee's first time. I adore this small hill town.
The first time I was there was during the dead of winter. This time around Pienza was crowded with large tour buses dropping people off. However, once aperitivi hour arrived, it cleared out a bit. We met Ondine (co-owner with John of La Bandita) for an aperitivo at a new place in town. The views were just ridiculous. Hello, is this real life?
The next morning I did a quick workout before the rain arrived.
Annalee and I got completely lost, in the pouring rain, looking for Monteverdi. It was worth it because we ended up driving through a stunning nature reserve.I was excited to finally see Monteverdi. Ilaria Miani was the interior designer and I had interned in her showroom. I couldn't want to see the spaces, that were floor plans during my internship, in person.American Michael L. Cioffi started buying and renovating villas in the village of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2003. He and Ilaria have created a special place that respects the history, culture, and beauty of the borgo while restoring it, a difficult feat.
We ate lunch in the entoeca. Outstanding. The service was incredible. As I mentioned earlier Annalee, doesn't eat meat. The chef went to the other restaurant on the property to order some fish for her.
The sun was trying to make an appearance.
Monteverdi is an unique experience. There are full time residents who have lived in the borgo for decades. However, this isn't a Disney version of a borgo. Locals and visitors attend the concerts, art shows, and other events held in the village's 14th century church, Sant' Andrea.
Unfortunately, our weekend was coming to an end and the forecast called for rain all day. When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shinning. I flew out of my room to take advantage of the change in weather.
If some of these vistas seem familiar it's because many films were shot on location in this area. The verdant hills of the Val di'Orcia have been inspiring artists for centuries. I highly recommend a visit.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - La Bandita Countryhouse
My apologies for the radio silence. Work has been bonkers. One of my clients moved back to the States. She was a high-ranking diplomat and her term was up. We needed to organize a major international move for someone who had lived in Rome for quite some time.My trip to La Bandita was the weekend after her move was finished. The timing was perfect. I was completely wiped out.I've been to the Townhouse and was curious about the Countryhouse after reading about it in design magazines. When Annalee invited me to join her, she didn't have to ask twice.
We met at the Chiusi train station and rented a car. Thankfully, Annalee did most of the driving as the two times I've rented a car in Italy I've received a speeding ticket. I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and drove pretty much every single day. I never received a speeding ticket (or any ticket for that matter). NEVER. I really don't understand why I got tickets in Sicily and Tuscany given I was trying to keep up with the flow of traffic. Sorry, I digress.I keep hearing Tuscany is over. Those people are on drugs. Are there some areas that are packed with tourists? Yes, but Tuscany is a large region. There's no reason to write off the entire area.The Val d'Orcia is truly one of the most beautiful places I've been to in Italy. My next post will be about what we did and where we went.Today, I'm focusing on the interior design. I've seen my share of "Tuscan" interiors. Too often there are extremes, either super modern, stripping all the character out of these older homes or too traditional, creating a space that reminds you of the Addams Family's house.Owners Ondine Cohane and John Voightmann, with their architects Ernesto Bartolini and Arianna Pieri of DA Studio in Florence, have a created a contemporary space that is warm, airy, and feels Tuscan. That last quality is so difficult to get right especially in an era of cookie cutter interior design (in part because every city has the same chain stores). Are there elements of the design that would feel at home in say, Miami or the Caribbean? Absolutely. The La Bandita team worked closely with local artisans and used natural materials found in the area. All these pieces came together to create a space that could only be in Tuscany.This article, written by Ondine, is about the how and why John and Ondine opened the Country House.
Annalee and I stayed in The Pigsty Suite. Yes, this independent apartment (just a few meters from the main house) used to be the pigsty.
My pictures don't do it justice. It was perfection. We had our own little patio. The views from our "backward" were breathtaking. The bathroom was immaculate. I have a thing about cleanliness in general and it's taken to another level regarding kitchens and bathrooms.The bathroom was huge and I loved having a shower next to the big picture window. I felt like I was taking a shower outdoors but without the risk of being attacked by wild boars. Seriously, these darn boars are no joke. Annalee and I went jogging before dinner and other guests told us they saw a family of boars right after they passed us on the road. No grazie.
The check in desk/reception is in the main quasi-open planned room with the kitchen and dining areas. There is a lounge/library area with a great selection of books.
My personal hotel tastes lean toward simple but sophisticated interiors. Some might find the bedrooms too minimalist but for me they let the architecture and views shine. The rooms are relaxing and calm which is what I want in a hotel room.
I can see how this hotel may not work for a solo traveler or anti-social couples as the dining space is communal. Bandita Countryhouse would be perfect for a group to rent the entire space.It's truly off the beaten path so I'm glad we arrived during the day. The unpaved road leading to the property is steep but worth it for the 360 views.
While technically it is a boutique hotel, the vibe at La Bandita Countyhouse is more your friend's very chic country house in Tuscany. I am here for it. The hospitality and food were wonderful. John, Ondine, Dario, Elena, Paola, Marco, and the cat (I didn't catch its name) made us feel at home.I had a great time. So much so that I'm willing to deal with the drama of driving a car in Italy again.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.La Bandita CountryhousePodere La BanditaPienza (SI) 53026Toscana, ItaliaTel +39–333–404–6704Fax +1–212–202–6222website
Design Inspiration - Darryl Carter's Boutique, Washington, DC
Darryl Carter's boutique was on my list of must sees during my trip to Washington, DC last month.I've read about it and seen many photos of it. Yet, I was not ready!Mr. Carter is one of my favorite interior designers. He usually works with neutral palettes and I love his modern take on traditional, classic style.He didn't study interior design. Carter was expected to attend law school and he did.His transition from a very successful lawyer to one of the most acclaimed designers in America is inspiring.His boutique, a pre-Civil War carriage house, is located in the Shaw neighborhood. The space was in complete disrepair when Carter bought it in 2008. The extensive renovation was thoughtful and bold, retaining many of the building's unique features. The exterior work was approved by the Historic Preservation Review Board.Carter sells antiques and new items that are handmade by artisans. Like his interior design work, the boutique is beautifully edited. It feels more like a home, rather than a store.Megan was kind enough to show me around during my visit.Much of the wood on the first floor was salvaged from the South African Embassy which was built around the same time as the original structure.This incredible limestone arch came from an old Virginia manor.
The cupboards were salvaged from the butler's panty of the Dumbarton estate.
This Birdseye maple dresser is an American antique from 1835.
Chairs from the late 1900s found in Philadelphia.
This sofa? Like butter.
African birthing chair.
I wish I took a better photos of the kitchen. My fingers were still defrosting. I cannot handle cold weather anymore.I love every single thing about this space, especially the doors that lead out to the courtyard.
This bench, designed by Carter, is perfection.
Life in Rome - Ercoli 1928 Parioli
I have lived in Parioli for a year now and love it. When I told people I was moving from the Historic Center to Parioli, everyone had an opinion (mostly negative)."It's so boring," was one of the main criticisms I heard regarding Parioli. Granted, it's not as exciting as living around the corner from the Drunken Ship but that's okay.There are plenty of great places in this neighborhood to get your aperitivi on and the prices are much lower than the Center. That said, it is a more residential area. There are rarely any tourists and while there are quite a few American and British expats living in Parioli, I seem to bump into them only at the DOC or Carrefour supermarkets.The latest addition to the 'hood is Ercoli 1928 Parioli and I am here for it. I met a friend for an aperitivo during the holidays. The first person I saw when we walked in was Federico Tomasselli, the bar manager and one of the best bartenders in Rome. What a very pleasant surprise! He used to be at Barnum on Via del Pellegrino. I lived on Pellegrino and spent a lot of time at Barnum because of Federico and Patrick (Patrick is now at Caffe Propaganda).My friend and I sat at the bar and loved it. The bar's specialty is Vermouth. My friend said their drink was outstanding. If you don't drink Vermouth, no worries. Ercoli's wine list is deep and they have a solid cocktails list too.I returned with another friend the other week and this time we sat in the front because the bar was still setting up.We ordered glasses of wine and the Italian cheese plate. Outstanding.The service was great and everyone was friendly. Trust me, this is not the norm in Rome where service can range from indifference to outright hostility. Ha.My friend picked up some takeout for her husband. I need to ask her how the meatballs were. The cheese selection is fantastic and will be problematic. I haven't eaten lunch or dinner here yet but have heard very positive reviews about chef Andrea di Raimo's dishes.
There are people don't care how a place looks as long as the drinks are great. I'm not one of those people. For food, it's a different story. There are wonderful restaurants that don't have much of a décor but it's okay because the food is on point. However, when it come to aperitivi/cocktails, atmosphere is also very important to me.
Ercoli Parioli knocks it out of the park. The space is divided into three areas. There's a restaurant, a deli, and the bar/cantina.The architect is Roberto Liorni, who's responsible for several of my favorite restaurant spaces including, Pastificio San Lorenzo a Roma, Rosti, and 'Gusto. The latter opened in 1998 and other restaurants are still "referencing" it. Liorni was also the architect for the film company Cattleya's headquarters. All these places have their own vibe but with his unmistakable DNA, contemporary, chic, yet comfortable.I adore the interior design at Ercoli. It's not trying to be the Roman version of a space in Soho or on Abbot Kinney. It fits the neighborhood and doesn't look like every single restaurant that has opened recently. I love the plaid...an unexpected touch.
I finished the cheese I bought. I'm trying to avoid Ercoli this week. I don't think I will be successful.
Life in Rome - The Artemisia Gentileschi Exhibit
Buon Anno!Man, am I happy to see 2017. I'm really looking forward to this year, despite all the craziness in the world. I have no control over these many complicated political and social issues but I can control how I react to them.There's a lot of ugliness and hatred in this world. I'm going to focus on the beauty and love. I know that sounds very Pollyanna. However, I strongly believe that those of us who work in creative fields and/or appreciate creative endeavors need to push back. Dostoyevsky wrote, "Beauty will save the world." I agree.If you're in Rome or plan to visit before May 7th, I highly recommend the “Artemisia Gentileschi and Her Time,” exhibit at the Museum of Rome in Palazzo Braschi. It's outstanding.Much has been written about the struggles of Gentileschi (1593-1653). This exhibit doesn't downplay them but focuses on her art and how the times influenced it. There are over one hundred paintings. Most are by Gentileschi with a few from her contemporaries.Gentileschi was the daughter of the painter Orazio and was heavily influenced by Caravaggio. She was the first woman to be admitted to the prestigious Accademia del Arte di Disegno in Florence.The population in Rome was two-thirds male when Gentileschi was growing up. It was very dangerous for a woman to be even be outside. Her mother died when she was twelve and she was raped by the painter her father hired to tutor her when she was seventeen. Her father had to hire a tutor because at the time women were denied access to the art academies. During the humiliating trial, Gentileschi was tortured and her family's reputation questioned. Her accuser (who had raped his wife, his sister-in-law, and tried to steal paintings from Orazio) was sentenced to a year in jail. His verdict was annulled.Gentileschi rejected the stereotypical female roles of the Early Baroque era and painted women who were powerful, mythical.The exhibit is categorized by city. You can see the influence living in Rome, Florence, Venice, London, and Naples (where she died, perhaps from the Plague) had on Gentileschi's work. After her death, Gentileschi's work was often attributed to her father or other artists.The exhibit is well organized (I know. Shocking). There are informative introductions (in Italian and English) to each period of her work.I saw her most famous work, Judith Slaying Holofernes, at the Ufizzi when I visited Florence a few years before I moved to Italy. She painted two versions and the other one is in Naples at Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte. 
There many paintings of this biblical story (including one by Caravaggio himself). It's fascinating to compare her interpretation to that of her male peers.I don't know if it was the setting (a smaller room, less chaotic that the Ufizzi), post USA election stress, or what, but this time the painting unnerved me. I didn't want to look at it but I couldn't turn away. There was a woman next to me tearing up. It's truly a powerful, visceral, beautiful, work of art. My god the colors. The physicality. Gentileschi painted herself as Judith and her accuser as Holofernes. I didn't know the details of her trial then but even those who have no knowledge of Gentileschi's backstory, can see and feel the unadulterated rage.Moving on from that uplifting note, Palazzo Braschi is a striking venue located in Piazza Navona. During the weekends there was quite a line. It might be less crowded now that the exhibit has been running for a few weeks. Museum of Rome, Palazzo BraschiUntil May 7th, 2017Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 7pm
Guest Post - Studying Abroad in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,This is the last post from our intern, Ariella. I asked her to write about her overall experience studying in Rome. It was a pleasure to work with Ariella and we wish her the best as she continues her studies at Cornell University.I have spent the last four and a half months exploring Rome. I've immersed myself in a new culture, started to learn a new language, admired the art and architecture of this amazing city that continues to create history, and meandered through its confusing yet welcoming streets.The illusions and expectations of studying and living abroad in Rome were surpassed by the realities of my temporary new home. The only real challenge seemed to be the difference in the food markets, which I quickly understood. How fun and interesting to be able to select and purchase food that looked real and smelled as it should. The shadows of dust and dirt reminded me of where the food actually came from, as opposed to very manicured and polished plastic packages of foods that all looked the same and had no aroma.Stopping at every cafe along the way as I discovered my neighborhood and others I explored, I found my comfort zone. While homesick for family and friends for a short first week, I'm now faced with the fear of returning as I know I will long for the place I will be leaving behind. I suppose it's good to leave with the feeling of wanting to return as my mission feels unfinished. I fantasize about returning for an extended period of time and can even imagine living here in the future.Rome has surpassed my expectations and has given me much to think about. I have enjoyed the people, the culture and lifestyle, and the way one moves through this city. It has been so interesting to see how such an old city with all its monuments and history has been able to have continuity despite the politics and introduction of globalization. This is evident by all the current problems of immigration, unemployment, housing, circulation etc. It's obvious that to preserve and yet become a place where the locals and visitors can enjoy this eternal city, introducing and maintaining infrastructure in the existing urban fabric has been quite a challenge.It has been a privilege to live and learn in this setting with Rome’s varied colors as they age and as the sun rises and sets through the changing seasons, giving us different perspectives of an everlasting place.
Before & After - Via Banchi Vecchi Project
Ciao Bloggisti,Earlier I wrote about the Via Monserrato project. One of the other apartments we worked on was located two blocks away on Via Banchi Vecchi. It was a new apartment for our client.The apartment was empty so we didn't have the same logistical issues but two bathrooms, and the kitchen had to be renovated. Any time you start opening walls you will have some surprises, especially in a building that's over three hundred years old.The brief from the client stated that the unique original flooring and the red tiles in the kitchen could not be replaced. The floors weren't in great shape but I like to think of them as adding character. The client wanted to improve the layout, add a closet in the bedroom, lighten up the very dark kitchen, and make the second bathroom more functional.The bulk of the budget went to the renovation. Some of the furniture came from the other apartments. We bought a mix of high-end hardware/fixtures along with budget friendly pieces.The minute the client stated that they had to change the layout, we called an architect. Fortunately, Domenico Minchilli and his studio took on the project. Square footage wise it was a lot smaller than their usual projects but it was complicated. We had worked together before which made the renovation process, never easy, smoother.BEFORE - The Kitchen
True, this is not a primary residence but I don't think any guest would want to spend a lot of time in here. It was impossible to get a decent shot of this dark, cramped space. The hallway before. The kitchen is behind the wall on the right.
There were structural issues that had to be addressed (electrical, ventilation) so a upgrade/renovation had to happen.
Originally, we discussed opening just one of the walls. Studio Minchilli suggested removing all them so you could see the entire arch as you walked into the apartment.AFTER
What a difference. It's light and there's plenty of space to move around. The cabinets are from IKEA but the counter top is quartz from Stone Italiana. We decided to spend more for a higher quality counter top given the open plan design. It elevates the entire space, making the IKEA cabinets look more expensive.My anxiety level was not good the morning of this installation. A heavy slab, cut to order. Three men had to carry it. 
The light fixture is custom. Il Paralume.
We also installed LED lights on the right.
BEFORE - Master Bathroom
There were dated, inexpensive white tiles on the floor. AFTER
The tub was replaced with a shower. 
We decided to go with a combination bidet and toilet, which is great for small spaces. The client wanted a unique sink. We ordered these (which were quite heavy, our poor contractor) and asked our blacksmith to build the bases.Notice, we didn't put tiles on the walls. Similar to the Tuscany Project, we wanted the bathrooms to feel more like a room and less clinical. For a busy family bathroom this option could be impractical but I really like how these rooms feel without tiled walls.The design of the new tiles mimics the original tiled floors in the rest of the apartment. While these colors look great together, installing three colors is a different story. Complicated.
The tiles, sink, and all hardware were purchased at LOZZI.The sconces are custom. Il Paralume.Paint is a custom color from Crown.In the bedroom we added a pocket door, a built-in closet, and the lampshades are custom from Il Paralume.
Our carpenter also created a desk in the corner.
BEFORE - Second bathroom.Extremely tight space, dated tiles. The layout was terrible and the room very dark.
AFTERWe completely changed the layout. We moved the entrance which enabled us to add space for a proper shower.The door is custom made by our carpenter. Door fixtures are from Handles.
Here's a better shot of the sink with the custom iron base. As with the other bathroom, we bought a combination bidet and toilet.
BEFORE - Living Room
AFTER - Living Room
The fantastic artwork is from Due Alberi. They're based in Rome but ship internationally.Our carpenter added new closets.The dining table is from MADE and the chairs belong to the client.
The side table came from the Via Monserrato apartment. We found the lamp at Leroy Merlin (the French version of Home Depot).
The client found the credenza online. The lamps were a great find at Leroy Merlin. We were so tired and hungry. My client was worried about my mental health as we had just spent hours at the IKEA next door. I perked up when I saw the lamps on a bottom shelf. I was so excited. It was like meeting Idris Elba.
Overall, the apartment feels lighter despite the lack of light (the windows are tiny). The renovated kitchen and bathrooms compliment the style and architecture of the apartment. We updated them but without losing the charm.We kept the palette very simple, creamy whites, grey, black, with a touch of red. The ceiling seems higher and apartment looks/feels bigger.For more information about this vacation rental, please check out Your Suite Rome on Booking.com.Architect: Domenico MinchilliAfter Photos: Vincenzo Tambasco
Life in Rome - Day Trip to Spoleto
Ciao Bloggisti,Friends of mine recently bought a weekend place in Spoleto and invited me up for a day. It's about forty miles south east of Perugia.It was my first trip to Spoleto and I highly recommend a visit. The Historic Center is very charming with incredible views. I took a lot of photos. Below are a few.Ponte delle Torri - a 13th century aqueduct.One of the highlights for me. Next time I will bring a pair of sneakers or hiking shoes so I could walk further up the trail.
The Duomo - Santa Maria Assunta
More pictures of the Historic Center.
Basilica di Santa Gregorio Maggiore - consecrated in 1146.
Note: This is not a politics blog but the US election last week was not normal.The President Elect would like to commute to the White House, staying mostly in Trump Tower. I was not aware that being President of the most powerful country on the planet was a part-time gig. This would create a major logistical nightmare for the Secret Service and the NYPD. It would also be a headache for residents of the building and the surrounding area as blocks of a major street (5th Avenue) would have to be shut down.There's a silver lining. Trump may not have time or the desire to redecorate the White House. I was thinking of writing a separate post about this space:
SpoletoPhotos: Me and my iPhone Trump Living Room: iDesignArch
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Amsterdam
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from our intern, Ariella:Last week my classmates and I went to Amsterdam. My impression of the city upon arriving was very different to my expectations. The architecture reflects its history and age, serving as a unique backdrop for modern, urban life.
I had preconceived notions of what the relatively “young” culture/community of Amsterdam was like. While Amsterdam really is a young and vibrant city, we soon found out how the existing architectural exteriors are not allowed to change. There’s a strict limit on the height of buildings in order to preserve the density and aesthetic “look” of Amsterdam. This also gives the city the character of feeling small, manageable, and almost village like, easy to get around. We saw many bikers traveling through its beautiful streets, even during peak rush hour time. Amsterdam is very livable and feels “alive” with its diverse multicultural population whose art and ideas you see splashed all about town; on the walls, in the alleyways, in fairs and in performances. 
Amsterdam has become a city where all the people and their original works have connected the old character of the city to the new young ideas.
Life in Rome - Villa Farnesina
Ciao Bloggisti,Villa Farnesina has been on my "need to visit" list for quite some time. One rainy afternoon, I decided to schlep across town. It was worth the trip.This villa is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture. In 1509, the wealthy banker Sienese Agostino Chigi commissioned architect Baldassarre Peruzzi (who was known mostly for his paintings) to build a villa for him in the country. The villa is located just across the river in Trastevere. Back in the day, Trastevere was considered the country as it was outside the city walls. Chigi was well connected and ran in some very rarefied circles. The location was perfect for him. He was close enough to the city for business and far enough away to build a grand space to entertain his friends, which included the Pope, with lavish banquets. Chigi, while a great host, was also a huge patron of the arts.Rumor has it that Villa Farnesina was built over the ruins of the villa where Cleopatra met her lover Mark Antony for sexy times. When construction began, Chigi was in love with the infamous courtesan Imperia (supposedly she was the first woman to be called as such) but his second mistress, and later wife, Andreosia lived in the home. It's not a surprise that the theme running through the villa is love.Imperia was close to, and perhaps the lover of, the great artist Raphael. She was the model for several of the frescoes in the villa. Other painters along with Raphael and Peruzzi were, Sebastiano del Piombo, Giovanni da Udine, Giovanni Bazzi, Giulio Romano, and Giovan Francesco Penni.In 1577 the Farnese family bought Villa Farnesina. It was given this name to set it apart from the villa they owned across the river in Piazza Farnese.I hope return to Villa Farnesina during a sunny day and soak it all in. It's beautiful.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Art and Architecture with Ariella - Torino
The floor of the elevator was made of glass and had striking views of the entire building. However, the ride up was not the best experience for those of us with a fear of heights.Looking back, I feel I did not spend enough time in the museum as it's something that could possibly take an entire day. The next day we walked around the city admiring the architecture, walking in and out of churches and buildings. At one point we realized there was a kind of 'exhibition' in the city. Contemporary artists had pieces displayed throughout the city and there was a map of all of the pieces. We grabbed a map and started the trail. This trail took us to some beautiful piazzas and courtyards. One of the pieces was a large cube with a triangular pyramid on top which matched the design of the window almost exactly except it was enlarged. The cafes in Torino were also incredibly beautiful. It was obvious that they were built and designed long ago. The way the aesthetics have been maintained make them unique to Torino, similar to much of the architecture we saw.
Photos by Ariella.
A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily
Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal. Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident. I got lost constantly. It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere. This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man. Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room. It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views. It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.
I woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna. 
It got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before. It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time. I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.
Of course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out. 
Grazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation. None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost. What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner. Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa. It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view. Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. 
Next, Modica.Had a slight fender bender. It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled. At least I wasn't driving a stick shift. I thought Modica was beautiful as well.
Three years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia. I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli. If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again. Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out. The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year! The word is out. There were small tour buses. The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related). I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.
Dinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.
By time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off. Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets. Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada. It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain. I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain. Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general. I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North. However, Sicily keeps calling me. I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring. The food and wine are incredible. The people I've met made me feel at home.
Sicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Io Adoro - E' Stile Bookstore
I'm still getting to know my neighborhood. One Sunday morning, I jogged past an interesting store window and made a mental note to check it out.Oh man, this place is going to be an issue. E' Stile is a concept bookstore focusing on art, fashion, and interior design/architecture.They have a GREAT book selection. I do order from Amazon sometimes, especially English language books but nothing beats going to an actual bookstore. Yes, it's more expensive. However, I believe it's important to support small shop owners. I like to browse and speak with the salespeople about the books. You can't duplicate that experience with online shopping.E' Stile also carries Chez Dede bags, products from brands like Kartell and Alessi, and there's a gallery space downstairs.
Photos: Me and my iPhoneE' Stile BookstoreVia Chiana, 15+ 39 06 8555337
Metropolian Home is Back*
*Kind of.I cannot stress how excited I am about this news! METROPOLITAN HOME was one of my favorite shelter magazines. While many of its competitors focused on big suburban houses, MH zeroed in on city living and contemporary design.During the massive financial and housing crisis of 2008, MH and several other magazines shut down (InSTYLE HOME, COTTAGE LIVING, BLUEPRINT, COUNTRY HOME, O at HOME and DOMINO). It was first published in the 1970s as APARTMENT LIFE and was renamed in 1981. It was very popular with city dwelling Baby Boomers and older Gen Xers.Now their children (the Millennials) are starting to buy and/or decorate their own homes. There's a ton of information on the internet of course, but there's something special about print. I think older Boomers who are downsizing and moving back into urban areas might spark to the relaunched MH as well.This is a test issue. It's for sale at newsstands in several cities in the States, was sent to ELLE DECOR (and other Hearst Magazine) subscribers, and is also available via the Apple store. If this issue does well, there will be a second fall/winter issue with the goal of making it a quarterly magazine.I cannot wait to read it. For more information check out their Facebook page, Pinterest page, or Instagram feed.
Life in Rome - My Post Milan Funk
I've been in a weird mood since returning from Milan the other week.I'm crashing from the Salone del Mobile high, Prince is dead, and I have a cold. I rarely get sick but when I do it seems as if my colds have a need to make up for lost time or something.When I went to the Salone two years ago this didn't happen. Something has changed in Rome and it's not for the better. I'm not the only one who feels this way. These articles, yesterday's New York Times and a piece my friend Michelle wrote for US and News Report in February, sum things up pretty well. Maybe I have cabin fever. Hopefully, tomorrow I will feel better and can leave my house!I have been to the Salone three times. The first time I stayed in a hotel near the Convention Center. The second time I rented an apartment in the city near the canals. Third time's a charm.Hotel prices are insane during the Salone (if you can find one). The Salone is larger than Fashion week and seventy percent of the people attending are visiting from other countries. The entire city takes part. If you're planning to attend, make reservations early. Many companies and vendors have blocked out rooms years in advance.I returned to the Principe after my great experience there in September. I still don't understand how the hotel was filled to capacity, yet I rarely saw any other guests on my floor. So quiet. The service at this hotel is impeccable despite its size. Plus, they have American bacon during breakfast.Renting an apartment while traveling on vacation is an excellent option but I've learned my lesson. When I'm working, a hotel is a better choice for me. Much better.I was running around Milan like a chicken with my head cut off and it was wonderful to return to a clean room, to have concierge service, a gym, a convenient place to have meetings, etc. Of course the cost was higher than the apartment I rented two years ago but my trip was more productive.And what a great trip...four intense days of meetings and visiting showrooms. I wish I had more time.I posted a few photos on Instagram and below are additional pictures from some of the highlights. I can't upload all the highlights as I forgot to take photos at the Ethimo party, and quite a few showrooms.
Project Via Monserrato - Reveal
During the past year I've been working on a decorating and renovation project in the Historic Center for a client who wanted to update a few of their B&Bs.It was a great experience. At times it was also challenging, as the apartments were fully booked months in advance. The logistics were difficult.Located inside a palazzo that dates from the 1600s The Via Monserrato apartment (aka Grand Suite), is on one of the prettiest streets in Rome.The brief was to create a contemporary décor, while at the same time retaining (and respecting) the charm and history of the architecture.Vacation rentals are tricky. You don't want a design that is bland or cookie-cutter but it cannot have so much personality that it turns off most customers.Here's a photo from the living room, before.
After 
This room is a mix of high and low vendors, antiques (that belong to the client), and custom pieces.The room is light, stylish, yet comfortable. We had to use fabrics and colors that could handle a lot of wear and tear.The walls were changed to Farrow & Ball's "Blackened", a cool white that reads light grey. I know I talk a lot about this brand but there's a reason I have used it in every single project I've worked on. The quality of this paint is no joke and depth of color is incredible. This was the first time the painters had worked with Farrow & Ball and they were very impressed. When people who paint for a living rave about a brand, you know it's good. Stateside, I like Benjamin Moore as well but that brand is not sold here. Le Decorazioni is the authorized Fallow & Ball vendor in Rome.We decided to go with a one L shaped sofa instead two. This model is a sleeper sofa and we bought it from Berto Salotto.The coffee table is from Maisons du Monde, a French brand with stores all over Europe.The curtains were custom made. The trim is Dedar. All the fabric for the apartment was selected and purchased at the store Lelli.The floor lamps are from MADE.The art work over the antique buffet is by Due Alberi. Funny that I read about these two artists in Rome on Elements of Style, which is written by Boston-based American interior designer Erin Gates. We used their work in another apartment (pics soon) as well.We commissioned artist Marta Alexandra Abbott to create pieces that referenced Rome in a subtle way. Marta is American and moved to Rome several years ago. You can see more of this series, inspired by the Ara Pacis, HERE.Dining area.
We kept the dining table and reupholstered the dining chairs.Before
After
This graphic Dedar fabric is durable and makes the 1930 lines of the chair stand out. The chairs were in great shape. I thought it would be better for the budget and the design to keep them. I'm not a fan of spaces where every single item is brand new. I like to mix things up. You see that a lot in interiors in France and Italy. If you don't have any older pieces of your own, you can find them at flea markets, estates sales, in your family's attics/basements, etc.We created a window seat. I wasn't sure my client would go for the pattern or the color. The fabric is Thibaut. I think it gives this room of neutrals a nice punch of color.The pillow are from a local shop, Fabindia.The former artwork in the living room.
Art work, after.
The hallway was painted white and the huge 1980s sconces were replaced with simple, modern ones. This art is by Marta as well.
Bedroom - before
After
Originally, there was a queen-sized bed in this room but my client's company has had many requests for twin beds.The walls are Farrow & Ball, "James White". The curtains are custom. The fabric is Thom Filicia for Kravet.I asked my blacksmith to make the head boards. I wanted something that would look great when together and when separate. We came up with a few designs and this is the one the client picked.The night stands are from Maisons du Monde. The lamp bases are from IKEA. The shades were custom made at the store Paralume, which is right up the street.I'm not sure how a store that makes/sells lampshades manages to stay in business in this global economy we live in but I hope they stick around for a long time.The beds together.
The master bedroom - before
After
We kept the bedside tables. The walls are F&B James White. The curtain fabric is Malabar.The lamp bases are IKEA, shades custom from Paralume. It's hard to tell from the photo but these shades/trim are a different color from the other bedroom.I have a thing about four poster/canopy beds. Our blacksmith designed this simple yet, elegant frame. With these ceilings, we thought a more decorative frame would be too much. It interesting how the room actually looks bigger even though this bed is the same width as the old one.Two photos from inside the Palazzo.
Overall, I'm very happy with how the apartment turned out. A huge, "Grazie" to my client and their team. I cannot tell you the amount of WhatsApps, SMS, emails, phone calls, job site visits, that were made. I truly appreciate their patience with my bizarre smash up of Italian and English. My client introduced me to my new Italian teacher. I got the hint. Heh.For more information about renting the Grand Suite, or other apartments from Your Suite Rome, click here.After photos and before of bedroom 1: Vincenzo TambascoOther photos: Me and my iPhone