2024. A New Year. A Reboot.
Greetings from the Caribbean!
Last year I felt I aged ten years in ten months. On a personal level, losing our mom was heartbreaking. She died three weeks after her diagnosis (and we were/are worried about our dad’s health). My foot surgery, strikes, stress, the sense that everything’s a dumpster fire, multiple wars and geopolitical conflicts, extreme weather, the normalization of fascist policies and politicians, the dearth of empathy, the viciousness of online discourse, Covid, racism, sexism, ageism, etc. etc. it’s all too much. Constant flight or fight is not healthy.
A few weeks before my mom died, she said she worries about me. That I worked too much and I needed to take time to have more fun. WHAT?!
I knew then that my mom was really sick. I mean, what Caribbean mom would say this? I told her so and she laughed. She also said she had no regrets as she had a wonderful life. My mom had a point on the fun thing but who can think about having more fun while the earth is burning (literally)?
I was apprehensive about this trip, my first time since the funeral. I’ve been in a weird space most of the year and thought being here would make things worse. Instead the opposite happened. It’s as if a fog has lifted. Being in the village where my family has lived for generations is healing and grounding. I appreciate being in my paternal grandparents’ garden, happy that their trees are bearing fruit again post Hurricane Irma. I spent a few days at The Cottage and was grateful that my great grandmother, grandmother, and mom held on their land.
Of course I don’t know what 2024 will bring. I do know that I can only control how I react to what life throws my way. Even if 2024 is another struggle year, it will still be a better year. I cannot have another year like 2023 and I refuse to. I’m usually a cynical optimist but last year I went hard in the paint for cynicism.
2024 is the year of the reboot (the good kind).
Moving forward I’m going to limit my time on social media. There are some great things about it but doom scrolling doesn’t do anything but raise our blood pressure.
I’m going to do my best to stop obsessing about things I have no control over. I will donate and volunteer.
There are wonderful things happening with some of my projects and I shouldn’t feel guilty about it. I’ve worked very hard to get to this point. I used to believe that being a broke creative person was somehow keeping it real. ahahaha. Nope. I’m entering my Rich Auntie Era. Being a Rich Auntie doesn’t necessarily mean one is rich. It’s more about a point of view, a way of life. That said, run me my coins! No, really.
Between my surgery and the strikes my budget took a hit. I want to take more day trips/weekend trips this year. Italy can be a chaotic country but one thing she does very well is having an accessible high-speed train system.
Losing a parent and facing your own mortality is no joke. I need to stop waiting for the perfect time/moment to do things. The perfect time is the present as tomorrow is not guaranteed.
I intend to pay more attention to the joy, wonder, and beauty of this world we live in. It still exists but I didn’t see, or seek, much of it in 2023. 2024 will be different. Last month I said to to my friends and family that 2024 will be a great year, even if it isn’t. I’m warning people now, I will be leaning hard into the woo-wooness, feminine energy, inspired vibes of my Caribbean background and Italian life. The American can do spirit is fantastic but balance is key. I going to embrace the upside of these different cultures instead of the negative ones. Let’s see how this works out. It might be the best thing ever or a complete disaster. Either way, I plan to enjoy the process.
Here’s to a new year!
My Ciao Bella interview with JJ Martin, founder of La Double J
Buongiorno a tutti!
Erica Firpo's Ciao Bella has published my interview with JJ Martin. Yes, it's true I rave about her and her brand often but I know first hand how difficult it is to be an entrepreneur in Italy. What JJ has created is incredible.
It was truly a pleasure to sit down with this very talented and dynamic woman to discuss interior design, creativity, and living in Italy.
To The Max: Designing Milan’s La Double J Store
Brick and mortar maximalism
When I read LaDoubleJ (those fabulous maximalist dresses from JJ Martin, Patron Saint of Patterns) was going to open its first retail shop, I couldn’t wait to see its interiors, not just because I’m a decorator but also as a fan of JJ Martin’s colorful brand. As luck and business would have it, I had to travel to Milan to meet with a new client. And Erica, knowing that visiting the new La Double J store was a “must” on my list, asked me if I could write about the store. JJ was gracious to carve out some time in her busy schedule to sit down with Ciao Bella to discuss the design of her new store and her brand.
Arlene Gibbs: First question. What inspired you to open an actual store, brick and mortar, at this moment when all we hear is that retail is dead. It’s all about e-commerce. No one goes to stores anymore.
JJ Martin: Well, we started as a direct to consumer business and an online business so I totally agree with that. I don’t think it makes sense at all, these brands that were built on brick and mortar with three hundred shops around the world. It doesn’t feel relevant anymore, especially these cookie cutter shops that all look the same. When you scan these streets, you can’t even tell the difference. They all have white walls, really bright light, chrome or gold finishes.
AG: You could be on Rodeo Drive.
JJ: You could be anywhere. So, a huge network of stores was never my vision nor will it be. However, we stared in this little showroom in Milan that was our showroom, our atelier, our office, our workroom, everything, and we were also selling clothes at the very beginning from there. It literally did like five things. What we kept hearing from people all the time was, “don’t you have a place we could try on more clothes?”
To read the rest of the interview, click HERE.
Photos courtesy of La Double J.
Villa Necchi, A Must See/Do in Milan
Ciao from a rainy morning in Rome.
I know I said I was going to write on this here blog more often but work this year has been very hectic. Perhaps things will slow down during Spring '22! I'm not complaining as these are good problems to have, especially during these strange pandemic times.
I went to Milan last week, just overnight, for the Salone. The energy in Milan was incredible. I felt safe going to showrooms and events as there were Covid protocols in place. Milan and the surrounding area were hit hard last year and no one wants to return to a lockdown.
I'm writing this while still on a Design Week high. I went to Milan in July for work and I was finally able to visit this palazzo. It has been on my list for ages and seeing the movie IO SONO AMORE/I AM LOVE only added fuel to my desire. The full name is Villa Necchi Campiglio but most know it as Villa Necchi.
Villa Necchi was designed and built by architect Piero Portaluppi from 1932 -1935 for the owner of the Necchi company, Angelo Campiglio, his wife Gigina and his sister-in-law, Nedda. There were some modifications and additions added by Architect Tomaso Buzzi after WWII. His style was a bit more traditional and you can see the difference as you walk through the villa. The villa was occupied by the fascists during the war and the family called Architect Buzzi once they were able to finally return to their home.
It took my breath away and pictures do not do it justice. It's amazing to see how modern these rooms from the early 20th century look and feel! It takes serious talent to design spaces that are classic yet contemporary. Portaluppi and his clients were truly ahead of their time. The Necchis entertained often and the house's public areas layout reflect this. This house was THE place to be back in the day.
The family had no children and instead donated their home to the non-profit FAI, the Italian National Trust.
The home has a large private garden with a swimming pool and tennis courts. Remember this is in the center of a large city! The villa is also filled with art, mostly 18th century, including artists Canaletto, Marieschi, and Tiepolo.
Look at the ceiling in the library! That design is a Portaluppi signature and you see it employed discreetly through out the villa.
I won't say anything to spoil the film for those who haven't seen it yet but one of the most important scenes in the movie takes place in this location.
The bathrooms were to die for. Again, I couldn't believe there were built in the 1930s. The veranda was another favorite room. The furniture was original and I could see those pieces being sold today. Even the utility rooms were design heaven. The Necchi family had custom Richard Ginori dinner service. I love the design of the "C" logo.
Style/fashion lovers will get a kick out of the sisters' built-in closets. The custom pieces from Gucci, Ferragamo, and Hermès are gorgeous. Quality and design like that never goes out of style.
The guides were very helpful, bilingual and there were two or three on each floor. I cannot recommend visiting this gem enough. My pictures and videos from this fantastic tour are in my Instagram highlights.
Buon weekend!
All villa photos: Giorgio Majno, © FAI — Fondo Ambiente Italiano
Dream of Italy: Travel, Transform, and Thrive
Buongiorno from Rome!
Things have been quite hectic here even though we're in the middle of summer. I'm staying put this year. I might go away for a long weekend in late August but it depends on what's going on with this Delta variant.
The tourists are back. Not pre-pandemic number of course but what a change from a few months ago. People are so excited to be here. For those who love Italy and/or would like to do some armchair traveling, there's a special Dream of Italy episode currently airing on PBS stations nationwide (USA). It's part of their pledge season, with a notable appearance by actor Joe Mantegna, with host Kathy McCabe.
Kathy and I looking at the gorgeous architecture on Via Monserrato. One of the prettiest streets in Rome.
In this special Kathy interviewed expats/immigrants who have moved to Italy part-time or full-time. She focuses on eleven essential elements of the Italian lifestyle – the land, food, family, art & culture, beauty, pace of life, passion, movement, community, celebrations and sense of home– through our stories. Kathy discusses how one can incorporate the values, inspiration, and beauty of Italy into their lives. There are also practical tips for people who are interested in moving to Italy for a sabbatical or permanently.
Interview with Kathy at Cantiere Galla Design showroom. I spend a lot of time here for clients.
Some of the people who were interviewed (Sting, Trudie Styler, Francis Mayes, Francis Ford Coppola) are very famous. Some, ahem me, are not. We all have unique stories and experiences of how and why we came to Italy. For more information and to find the airdates for your area click HERE. At the moment it's only airing in the USA and some areas in Canada that receive PBS stations. It should be on available for international viewers in 2022.
Some BTS with friends on the rooftop terrace of Hotel de la Ville.
This special was filmed before the pandemic. I'm thrilled to be a part of this program that speaks to the wonderful things about living in Italy.
The Cottage, Meads Bay Beach, Anguilla BWI - Reveal
Building and designing a new beach house on a tiny island is not the easiest of jobs.
This was a personal project and I was working with several people who all have different tastes. I wanted to incorporate everyone's ideas yet make sure the space was cohesive.
This is a cottage so nothing too fancy or formal. A cottage is more traditional. That's why we have spindles and rails on the veranda and not glass. I wanted it to be comfortable. It's Relaxed Chic. It's the vacation home of your favorite aunt and uncle who like to have a cocktail, or two, as they watch the sun set from their veranda.
The logistics! The one two punch of the strongest hurricane to ever hit the Atlantic and then two years later the first global pandemic in one hundred years didn't help. However, thanks to a very dedicated and hard working team, we did it! The Cottage is finished.
Here are two before photos:
Standing in front of what was going to be the kitchen island looking out at the sea view.
After: The sea view from behind said island. The house was designed to take advantage of the spectacular views. There was a big debate about the ceilings. Yes they are very high (over 19 ft) and the wood was beautiful but I thought staining them a dark color would be a mistake. The only natural light is coming from the bi-fold veranda doors and way on the other end, the windows in the kitchen.
We painted the walls and ceiling a softer white than the external color The color running through the house is blue with touches of yellow, and a coral red.
The countertops are poured concrete. The counter stools are from Serena and Lily. The handmade made bowl is Schoolhouse and the pomegranates came from our contractor's mom's backyard.
Almost everything has to be imported due to the island's size. I had a local carpenter make quite a few pieces. I was asked why not buy the bedside tables, in the Main Bedroom, in the States as it would be easier and probably cheaper. I did it because we already had a full container coming from America and it's important no matter where you build/renovate to support local businesses and artisans when possible.
I cannot stand it when you're unable to get a sense of place in a house. I'm a huge fan of the big American stores I sourced from but it's a good thing, especially for a new build, to mix it up. I don't like spaces that feel like a showroom. I also sourced from smaller vendors and to the trade.
The Caribbean is mix of cultures and that's reflexed in The Cottage. I side-eye the fact that one culture is usually missing despite the majority of the people who live in the Caribbean being from that culture.
The dining table was sourced at the French store La Maison in St Martin. The chairs, Amazon USA. A local upholster made the seat cushions. The fabric is from Ghana and was bought at the African Market store in St. Maarten (Dutch side). The vase is Crate & Barrel.
The view looking in from the veranda. Ceiling fans are Minka Aire. Sofa is from La Péninusle in St. Martin. Coffee table is Serena and Lily. Arm chairs IKEA. Custom seat cushions outdoor/indoor fabric Sunbrella from Showroom Tapissier in St. Martin. Side table from Home Kara in St. Martin.
I designed the custom bookcase/desk with our carpenter.
This is the view looking out from the veranda.
The kitchen. The cabinet doors were custom made by our carpenter. The pendants lights had to be a special order from Schoolhouse because of the height. Sconces and hardware are Schoolhouse as well. I decided not to do upper cabinets. This may not be practical for a primary residence but for a vacation house it makes sense. It's easier to find everything. I feel upper cabinets would look odd with these type of ceilings. They would cut the space in half.
Glassware, tableware, and small appliances are from Crate & Barrel. The larger appliances including the wine refrigerator (it's in the island), integrated dishwasher, and mircowave are GE and were bought through Sheila Haskins who is the authorised GE vendor on island.
When it came to the countertops, I knew from the very beginning they would be concrete. I like that they were made by hand and the material is perfect for this beach house style. The floors are coral stone tile from the Dominican Republic. Backsplash is Granada Tile also handcrafted.
I wanted this to be a comfortable house where people could relax and enjoy themselves. The tray is from Serena and Lily. The art work was commissioned from a young Anguillian artist, Carmel Gumbs. It's a black and white oil of Shoal Bay. B&W was a risk but with the incredible views why compete? It's different. The clients love it. Vase is Crate & Barrel. The morning of the shoot I cut some branches from our sea grape tree.
The main bedroom as the sun starts to set. The bed is Crate and Barrel. The basket is Vendredi in St. Martin. The lamps are from One Kings Lane, and the bed side tables are custom. The sheets in all the bedrooms are Boll & Branch.
Another angle of the bedroom. That view! So glad we went with these type of doors. Great for indoor/outdoor living.
The en-suite bathroom. Sconces are from Shades of Light.
I designed the custom vanities with our carpenter and contractor. We stained the wood instead of painted it. I like having some wood in the bathrooms. Warms things up a bit.
In the original plans there was another closet where the tub currently is. Where the shower is now was supposed to be the tub AND the shower. I did a walk through once the internal walls were up. I suggested we get rid of the closet and place the tub there. It's a vacation house. It's not necessary to have two large closets. I think most people would rather have a roomy shower.
Sigh. That shower.
This bedroom also has a sea views and a king size bed. Bed is from Serena and Lily. Lamps One Kings Lane. Bedside tables from La Péninsule in St. Martin. Dresser is from Crate & Barrel.
That sea grape tree has been there for ages. I would like to relax on this veranda. Chaise lounges from One Kings Lane.
The en-suite bathroom. The next bedroom (yellow room) has the same bathroom.
The yellow room. Garden View. Twin beds and dresser are Crate & Barrel. Bedside tables from La Péninsule, St. Martin.
This color was quite controversial. This room gets a LOT of sun and the color changes during the day with the light. It's called Bermuda Sun. Appropriate.
I've just read an article in Architectural Digest regarding how yellow is one of the toughest colors to work with but it's making a comeback. I stand by my choice! Plus, it's very pretty at night.
The closets were built by our carpenter.
In the hallway looking into the half-bedroom and the powder room.
The day bed is from Crate & Barrel. Floor lamp Serena and Lily.
The customs/installation drama with this wallpaper was worth every grey hair.
This is a small room. Powder rooms are the perfect space to go all out. Wallpaper is Thibault (to the trade). Sconce is Circa Lighting.
This is technically the front of the house. You walk in and your eye goes immediately to the view.
The cabinets are custom. Bench is Serena and Lily. Black sconces, hooks, and door knobs from Schoolhouse. Chrome sconce is Circa Lighting and these are in all the bedrooms as well. Art work is a print from St. Martin based artist Antoine Chapon.
Bag is from Ghana sourced at the African Market store, St. Maarten.
The very large Dutch Door. I changed it from a regular door so it's possible to keep the top open for a breeze without worrying about young children, out of eyesight, going outside .
Custom shade is from The Shade Store.
Meads Bay Beach is also famous for its sunsets. Not a bad place to enjoy them. Table, love seat, coffee table, from Le Péninsule and the yellow chairs are from La Maison, both in St. Martin. Tableware and teak candle holders (on the floor) from Crate & Barrel. Table top candle holders from Paloma & Co.
I would love to walk out of the bedroom and sit here with some rosé or rum punch.
No words regarding this view.
Sconces on the veranda are Circa Lighting. Sconces outside the veranda are Shades of Light.
Meads Bay.
Buona notte/Good night!
The logistics of this project were on the Italian bureaucracy level. One thing I would highly recommend is hiring a local project manager from the very beginning, even if you're on island. We started working with Gifford Connor mid-way through this project. Once the pandemic hit, and the borders were closed, I wasn't able to visit the job site even when I was in St. Martin just a 20 minute ferry ride away. It was great to have someone on the ground to keep everything moving forward.
Anguilla is truly a special place. She has managed to retain her soul (so far) despite the increase in tourism. The government looked at what St. Maarten did and decided not to go that route. There are no casinos and no big cruise ships. I didn't appreciate this island when I was a teenager. I thought it was too small and so boring. All my relatives were super strict and nosy. I wished I were back in Jersey at the Willowbrook or Short Hill Malls with my friends. Ha. That all changed once my parents moved back to St. Martin after retiring. I started to spend more time in the Caribbean and realized that all the things that I resented when I was younger, I needed/wanted in my life.
This property belonged to my great-grandmother Priscilla Connor. I don't know much about her and next time I'm in Anguilla I will try to look up when she was born. Her daughter Martha was born in 1898 (and lived to be almost 101 years old). The high-end luxury tourism boom took off in the '80s. Now the Four Seasons (formerly the Viceroy) is on one end of the beach and Malliouhana Hotel is on the other end. My grandmother was a widow and yet she refused to sell her land. She turned down every offer. She said it would go to her children. It did and my uncles and aunt agreed with my mom to let "the kids" build The Cottage. Everyone contributed. We're one of only two or three local families to still own property on this beach. I think of Priscilla often. I wonder what her life was like and what she would think of Anguilla today. This is more than just a beach house to us.
Doors, windows, wood, and indoor shutters sourced from Arawak Hardwoods a local company that also has an office in Florida.
All bathroom fixtures and fittings are from Quality Bath.
Builders: Ernest Fleming and Shawn Romney
Architect: Anderson Home Planners
Project Manager: Gifford Connor, APA - Anguilla Property Services
Photography: KSharp Media
Click HERE for more information regarding vacation rentals.
Chatting with Ciao Bella!
I know I'm late to the game but I've just recorded my first podcast interview. I have mentioned my friend Erica Firpo's podcast CIAO BELLA on social media before. It's fantastic and I'm not saying that because she's a close friend.
This description of Ciao Bella sums it up perfectly.
"Italy's 21st-century creators - contemporary artists and artisans, heritage brands and innovative aesthetes, chefs, experts and more who are defining, redefining and evolving Italy.
Fashion. Food. Art. Travel. Design. Innovation. Tradition. And more. Cocktail conversations and behind-the-scenes visits that will make you want to pack your bags and go!"
I'm thrilled to be in the company of other Italy based creatives and to discuss what it is we love (and sometimes don't love so much) about this country.
In this episode we talked about working in Italy, interior design, Reno Italiano, and the beach house project I recently finished in Anguilla, BWI.
Erica and I met at Ciampini Caffe, one of our favourites places in Rome. Of course while we were there, construction started on an apartment above us.
Work in Progress - Anguilla, BWI
We’re almost done!
I'm getting ready to take the ferry back to St. Martin for a few days and then I'm going home. I do miss pain in the butt (sometimes) Rome but thrilled/relieved I was able to finally make it to the job site in Anguilla.
Building a new beach house on a small island when you live thousands of miles of away isn’t easy. Trying to finish said beach house during a global pandemic is:
My sister-in-law and I spent an entire week unpacking boxes from the Miami container. Our fourteen-day quarantine wasn’t too bad thanks to the Bubble System here in Anguilla.
Several potential guests have asked if there’s a pool. Not at the moment but the goal is to build one soon. In the meantime, there’s a fantastic beach for swimming. This isn't photoshopped. The water on Meads Bay is really this color during the midday. The sunsets are gorgeous as well.
Buon weekend a tutti!
Grazie, Thank You, Merci!
Greetings from a construction site.
I'm finally out of my fourteen day quarantine here in Anguilla. The contractor and his crew have returned to the job site. I spent the first week of quarantine at the boutique hotel Frangipani. I was supposed to be there only two nights but there was no way my sister-in-law and I could start our quarantine at The Cottage while the crew was finishing up the bathrooms.
I watched the premiere of RENO ITALIANO in my hotel room. To say it was a surreal experience would be an understatement. The first week after RENO aired was bananas, so many emails and messages. Speaking of bananas, that's the situation here as we finish this house. So this is just a quick note to say thank you to everyone who watched, helped spread the word, left comments, emailed, Tweeted, Instagrammed, etc. etc. I've read every single note and I'm very grateful for the wonderful feedback.
I've received a ton of questions asking me if HGTV will rerun the pilot, will it be On Demand, or on Discovery Plus, and if RENO ITALIANO will become a series. I don't have any information at the moment. If that changes in the future, I will post about it on social media.
Returning to my long punch list.
Buon weekend!
Introducing RENO ITALIANO, our HGTV pilot!
I can finally talk about it and I’m trying to be zen. As if it’s just another day at the office.
However, I have zero chill and I’m completely geeking out. The renovation TV show pilot I’ve been working on will air this Friday on HGTV. Yes, that channel. Seriously, what is my life right now?
Our show is called Reno Italiano and it’s on at 11:30 a.m. EST (USA) between Flip or Flop and Love It or List It. Check local time for listings.
The house is located in Arpino, a small hilltop town between Rome and Naples, and the views are gorgeous. It’s over two hundred years old and had been abandoned for sixty years. This was not an easy renovation and we were doing it in Italy on a very narrow street. However, we had a great team and you’ll get to meet them during the show.
My clients, Tracy and Matt, are American and couldn’t see their house (once the renovation started) until it was finished! Can you imagine? I’m grateful for the trust they placed in us and that we were able to make their Italian dream home a reality. I’m also grateful for our excellent project managers Kylie and Antonio, phenomenal contractor Bruno, and last but not least our on point geometra, Michele.
Regarding the non-renovation part of this process, I learned a lot. It’s one thing to be an assistant or a producer on set. Being in front of the camera? Weird. I was in good hands though with my producers Kip and Rich and our showrunner Katie. This unscripted world is new to me and fascinating.
We can’t share any BEFORE or AFTER pics before the show airs. I can tell you that it’s a stunning transformation so set your DVRs.
Follow along on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtags #renoitaliano and #hgtv.
Arrivederci 2020!
Greetings from the Caribbean! There’s still no liming.
I clearly remember many of my friends saying that they were glad to see 2019 go and 2020 couldn’t be worse. Well, what can I say? 2020 showed up and showed out.
While I’m very fortunate not to have lost any friends or family because of Covid, several people I know have (mostly in Los Angeles).
I’m not going to recap this dumpster fire of a year.
I will say that my worst fears, the things that kept me up at night, happened. All of them. At once. But I’m still here.
It’s freeing in a bizarre way.
Who knows what the heck 2021 will bring? I cannot control what’s happening in the world, only how I react to it.
I’ve neglected this poor blog. I would like to write on here more often in 2021. I know I should have a scheduled time to post and what not. Nope, that’s not going to happen.
I’ve read that blogs are dead. I think it depends on the reason why one blogs or reads them. I’ve missed blogging to be honest. I find that sometimes my Instagram captions are way too long and would probably make more sense as a blog post.
The last few years have been a bit of blur which is one reason I haven’t blogged as much. I might get into why another time, I’m still processing. Everything came to a grinding halt earlier this year. Completely. I spent many days during our severe lockdown sitting on my parents’ veranda freaking out. I’m a woman of a certain age and was wondering “is this it? Is this what I’ve been busting my butt for, for all these years, only to end up here?!” I’m not the only one.
That I’m single and have no children of my own added to this sense of feeling I haven’t hit important benchmarks. Never mind that I didn’t create these benchmarks but I felt the pressure nevertheless.
I have a bad habit of saying/thinking, “okay once A happens, I can then do B or B will happen.” As if I’m constantly on hold. I’m not sure where this comes from. I can be a bit of a perfectionist but that’s not it. I’m not writing New Year’s Resolutions but I do know that one thing I want to work on is being more present. Sorry, I know that’s kind of woo-woo! What’s nuts is that I’ve actually improved since moving to Italy. Clearly, I still need to work on this.
I want to lean hard into my creativity and see what happens. I’ve been so stressed out about what’s going on in the world, my work, and my financial hardships that it’s taken a beating. I have no idea what (or how) my intention will look like moving forward but I’m excited about figuring it out.
There are going to be some big changes in 2021.
Happy New Year!
The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *
Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.
This view.
Livia getting her Prosecco on.
Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met. Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude. Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth. She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer. Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.
The lunch Violante prepared was delicious. The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous. I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.
Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.
Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.
Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.
As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.
Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.
Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.
We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.
We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.
Caffe realness.
It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.
The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.
Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.
Plate designed by Violante.
Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.
Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.
BANANAS!
Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events. For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.
*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.
Work in Progress - Anguilla, British West Indies
The last few months have been off the charts hectic, in a good way.
One of the projects I’m working on is a new beach house on Meads Bay Beach in Anguilla. I don’t know how or why our job site suffered only a little damage during Hurricane Irma, the strongest hurricane ever recorded in the Atlantic. Meanwhile, just down the beach, the Four Seasons had twenty million dollars worth of damage. We were very lucky.
Hotels have rebuilt and reopened. Many of the damaged homes have been repaired. There’s still some work left to do but things are moving forward. I’m in awe at how quickly this tiny Caribbean island bounced back.
The construction should be finished in a few months.
Very early stage. The basement and cistern.
View from the veranda by the master bedroom.
View from the kitchen after we cleaned up all the sand blown in from Irma.
The ceiling almost completed.
Painting these high ceilings was a lot of work for our crew.
Master bedroom with accordion doors.
Main veranda.
View from said veranda. We will work on the landscaping once the heavy construction is done.
The other end of Meads Bay. The beach house is smack in the middle.
Marigold - A Delicious Newish Restaurant/Bakery in Rome.
I’ve bought baker Sofie Wochner’s cinnamon rolls during the Latteria Studio‘s holiday pop-ups. Big fan. I’ve also heard about the pop-up dinners she and her husband, chef Domenico Cortese, used to hold in various locations through out Rome.
Sofie and Domenico have dreamed about opening a restaurant and micro bakery in Rome for years and recently they made that dream come true. They’ve opened Marigold in the dynamic and artsy Ostiense neighborhood.
It’s on the other side of town and quite the hike for me. However, after my meal on Saturday, I’m more than happy to walk to the tram, take the tram to the Metro, and then walk from the Metro to the restaruant.
My friend Marta and I met for brunch. Well, more like breakfast as we arrived pretty early, around 10. It’s a good thing we did. The restaurant filled up quickly and I read there’s usually a line out the door after 1:00 p.m. The space is lovely. It’s minimalist/modern yet warm. The music is chill and enhances the vibe. The handmade ceramics are beautiful. The service was great, attentive without being intrusive.
We both had the waffles as we never make them at home. Neither one of us has a waffle pan. They were excellent. I also ordered some carrot cake because it was Saturday. It was delicious. I’m very picky about cakes, especially in Italian where American style ones can be too dry. The carrot cake was perfection. Not too sweet and the icing was great too.
I haven’t had the bread but my friends rave about it. Sofie walked out with a tray of chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving. I had already ate my weight in sugar and bought some cinnamon rolls to go. While I was tempted to buy some cookies, I decided to hold off and return another day. I will probably buy some cinnamon rolls too and the carrot cake again, and maybe a brownie. Perhaps it’s a good thing that Marigold is on the other side of town.
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Closed on Mondays.
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Rome, 00154 +39 06 8772 5679
White Kitchens - Yes or No?
Put me firmly in the YES camp. I'm the middle of sourcing cabinets for our Anguilla Beach House Project. As I read various online design magazines and blogs, it appears that white kitchens are "out". People are sick of them. Apparently, they are boring and show no creativity.
I disagree. I strongly believe that kitchens and bathrooms are not the places to be trendy. They are the most expensive rooms to build or renovate. Twenty-four percent of Americans move to a new house every five years. In other countries people tend not to move as often. If one is worried about the resale value of their home, it would make sense to have a kitchen that is not dated.
A well-designed white kitchen is timeless. This is one reason they're so popular. One cannot tell if the kitchen was renovated five months ago or fifteen years ago. A homeowner can always swap out hardware or light fixtures to freshen things up or we can use accessories that speak to the trends of the moment. Most people cannot afford (nor want to) gut a functional kitchen just for aesthetic reasons.
White kitchens are not a trend given they've been "in" for almost two decades and were very popular in the 1920s. They are classic. Seriously, what are people smoking? I think, with the rise of social media, we're burning through trends faster. There's this need for instant gratification and always looking for something new. The thing is, most of the hot trends of today will not hold up.
To me it's more important that a workhorse room, like a kitchen, functions well. Open shelving may not be practical for some families. Maybe your kitchen isn't big enough for a massive island.
If a client wants to go with dark green cabinets, I'm all for it and we'll look for the shade that works best in the space. However, if a client wants white Shaker cabinets but worries it's too boring, we're going to get the darn Shaker cabinets. We can find other ways to add some color to the kitchen.
Content driven decorators rarely think about the architecture and/or the function of the space. Many have moved away from working with clients and instead continuously buy and flip houses. That's a very different mindset than creating a home for yourself or for a client.
As I work on this beach house kitchen, I'm mindful of the trends but we will have white Shaker cabinets as they fit the space, the location, and the architecture of the home. If the house were inland or a primary residence maybe we would chose a different color.
Here are some kitchens from talented designers and decorators. Notice that they don't look the same. I wish someone would tell them that these kitchens are boring or "so over".
This kitchen is in a 1922 Colonial that was recently renovated by interior designer, David Nastasi.
Photo: New York Magazine
Modern Farmhouse by House of Jade Interiors.
Photo. The Spruce
A villa in Tuscany designed by Ilaria Miani. The estate belonged to her grandparents and is now owned by her brother. I was one of her interns and I remember her custom Whatnot shelving well.
Photo: Elle Decor
Interior designer's Mark D. Sikes's kitchen in the Hollywood Hills.
Photo: Mark D. Sikes
A minimalist NYC kitchen. Love the terrazzo floor. Interior Design by Pierce Allen.
Photo: Elle Decor
The Design Files - A Beautiful Colonial Renovation
I published a post earlier this year regarding how traditional interiors are “in” again. I don’t think they were ever out but I’m thrilled to see color and patterns celebrated again.
I recently read about this gorgeous renovation in New York Magazine. I enjoyed The Cut Wendy Goodman’s interesting and informative interview with Interior Designer David Nastasi and his husband Michael Stone.
The couple bought the 1922 Colonial in 2014 and started the renovations a year later. It was a lot of work as the house hadn’t been touched for decades. It was important to the new owners to keep the elegant architecture of the house while updating it for the way we live today.
It’s a stunner.
Can we talk about this entrance?! I’m not the biggest Fornasetti fan. I like it in small doses BUT their Nuvolette wallpaper from Cole & Son? Cannot get enough of it. Cannot. This is a bold choice for a traditional home. I love it.
More wallpaper to love in the dining room. It’s from the Spanish brand, Gaston y Daniela.
I’m writing a separate post about white kitchens. There is nothing dated about this one. All these windows. The mix of modern and traditional. This is a kitchen I could spend hours in.
To seem more of this wonderful renovation, the article is HERE.
Photographs by Genevieve Garruppo
The Design Files - Ristorante Local, Venice
Yes, it's true that Venice has many tourist trap restaurants. Tourist traps don't care about the quality of their food (and love to over charge people) as it's a volume business, especially from the mega cruise ships. They will never see those tourists again and locals would never eat there.Do not let the bad press discourage you. There are fantastic places to eat in Venice! The restaurant Local is one of them. I'm not going to write about the food though (which was delicious) but about the interior design and overall vibe.The restaurant was opened in 2016 by brother and sister, Benedetta and Luca Fullin. The space used to be an electrical shop. It's located in the Castello neighborhood between Piazza San Marco and The Arsenale.The design like, the cuisine, is inspired by local traditional Venice but with a touch of modern international flavors.I spoke with Benedetta during our trip last month and she told they used local artisans to make, by hand, everything from the floors, to the dishes, to the lighting, etc.I absolutely love the Venetian Terrazzo floors.
They were poured by hand and hold over five thousand murrine, which were handmade in Murano. The oak table, chairs, and wine cellar were made by Pasquini Marino.The open planned kitchen is inviting. It's not a cheap restaurant (our meals were included so checked prices online) but it's not stuffy either.
The restaurant sits on a side canal, light pours in.
Local frequently showcases art, with a focus on emerging talent, from the Contini Art Gallery.It's not easy to find the right balance in a historic, popular tourist destination like Venice. Do you completely erase the past in order to stay current, or go in the opposite extreme? Local feels very much of its time and its location. I'm not a fan of eating in a restaurant that looks and feels generic. We eat with our eyes as well and the interior design and ambience of a restaurant shouldn't be overlooked. Living in Los Angeles, sometimes we had the reverse situation, gorgeous spaces that were very "in" but the food was indifferent to inedible.Twelve years had passed between my two trips to Venice. That's ridiculous. I'd like to return sooner rather than later. I look forward to returning to Local, grabbing a seat at the bar, and trying their cicchetti.
First photo and the last two photos: Me and my iPhone. Other photos: Ristorante Local
La Biennale Venice - 2018
My friend Erica invited me to join her on a press trip for the preview of the 16th Architecture Biennale. I haven't been to any of the Biennale. I follow the art, cinema, and architecture ones on social media but it's not the same.
My first (and last) trip to Venice was twelve years ago, late November. Even during off-season, the crowds in the Piazza San Marco area were quite large. The experience did not prepare for last week. More on that later.We were in Venice for only two days/one night. I would love to return to see the Pavilions I missed. Erica has a great write-up on her Instastories.Normally, we'd take a train from Rome but we had to get there in time for the press conference so we placed on a 7:00 am flight. A private boat picked us up. Not a bad way to enter the city. We had a few minutes before the press conference and met the other journalists/architects and their guests. It was a small group, only twelve of us, half were from Milan. Our hosts were wonderful and, my fellow Americans will feel me on this, I couldn't get over how organized everything was. One of the hosts flew from Milan to Rome to meet us on the flight to make sure things were on point.The theme this year is Freespace. The curators are architects Yvonne Farrel and Shelley McNamara of Grafton Architects.
After the press conference we walked over to Local, which was fantastic. It's owned by siblings Benedetta and Luca Fillun and used to be an electrical shop. I spoke more Italian in a day than I have in probably two months.We returned to the Arsenale for a guided tour of the Corderie. From there we were able to see a few pavilions before going to the hotel to check in. My favorite pavilions were the Kosovo, Canada, Italy, Bahrain, Italy, and Croatia Pavilions. I wish I had more time to spend in each one.
Erica and I decided to walk toward Piazza San Marco instead taking the boat. I was NOT READY. Remember, I've never been to Venice during high season. The crowds were on another level. I keep reading about the crowd situation but it's another thing to experience it. 28 million tourists visit Venice a year. Only 55,000 people live in Venice full-time, down from 175,000 post WWII, with around 2000 leaving every single year. AirBnB has pushed the rents sky high, and mass tourism from mega cruise ships turn streets into packed corridors during the day and desolate at night. I don't know what the answer is but this type of tourism is not sustainable.We stayed at the Bauer Palazzo and I was happily surprised to see that we had a terrace. The service was impeccable. It could be because we were with a group of journalists and architects.
As we unpacked and got ready for aperitivi I noticed a chic terrace, a floor higher, on the building next door. I asked the bartender if it was a hotel bar. He said no they were preparing for a private party. I had no idea it was the party we were going to attended. It was a little overwhelming. There was were heavy hitters from the design/architect world and folks were not playing sartorially. The Hugos, and views, were divine.
Post- reception, we had dinner on the patio of the hotel with canal view. During dinner I hear suddenly heard loud gasps. I looked to my left and saw a mega cruise ship rolling into the canal. It dwarfed the buildings. I have no words. Perhaps I'm hyper sensitive to these ships as I've seen what they've done to the quality of life for residents of the island of St. Martin/St. Maarten. I strongly believe the cons outweigh the pros.I woke up at the crack of dawn to jog and it was glorious. The city was quiet, with Venetians going to open their shops and getting ready for the new day. There were a few other tourists out jogging and some taking photos. I got lost in the side streets running toward the Rialto bridge. I didn't mind. It's surreal to be in a city where there are no cars, buses, etc. everything is brought in, and leaves, by boat. I understand why this special city has inspired writers, artists, and artisans for generations. It's a damn shame that it's being destroyed.
Erica and I had a delicious breakfast on the Bauer's rooftop terrace. We were picked up (on time!) and took a our boat to the Giardini (the gardens) to see more pavilions.
We had a guided tour of the Main Pavilion. I highly recommend checking it out. There was a very interesting scale of the NYC Project, one for a Los Angeles project, and several short films. Then we were on our own to see the rest. I have to say, I was fading fast. There was so much to take in. I missed many pavilions that I wanted to see, like Switzerland, and Antique & Barbuda. There wasn't enough time. Of the ones I made it to, America, Nordic (Finland, Norway, Sweden), Russia, France, were stand outs. I loved the roof top deck of Great Britain and France's wine set-up was very clever.
The Russian theme was about train travel and how the largest country in the world is impacted by it. There are areas that are inaccessible by train and the country spans a few timezones, There was a short film, SEVEN DAYS IN SEVEN MINUTES, regarding a man's 9,300km/5780 miles train journey to Siberia. The Pavilion was transformed into a train station with several multimedia exhibits.The Nordic Pavilion dwelt with climate change. Visually this was one of the most interesting pavilions. The large balloons inflated and deflated depending on changing environmental conditions.The American theme was Dimensions of Citizenship, which really resonated with me. There was a fascinating short film, IN PLAIN SIGHT, that used data from global space sensors showing us how humans have organized our planet. It touched on last year's hurricane season and the difference between Houston's recovering and Puerto Rico's. I was blown away by the places that had large population but no lights, and other spots with a large electrical grid but it was used only for tourists or farming.We ended our trip with an delicious outdoor lunch at Corte Sconta. Corte Sconta means, "hidden courtyard". Our meals were included in the trip so I cannot tell you how the prices were. I get the sense that Corte Sconta was the pricier of the two but it wasn't stuffy.It was hot and walking over ten miles in one day got the best of me. By the time I had to meet our group, I was completely exhausted not really physically but it was information overload. It was a lot to process.It's an incredible experience and it was unique to have these conversations in a city like Venice. I was inspired by the architects and designers I met, the Pavilions, and of course the city itself. Grazie mille, Erica.To see more photos and videos from our short trip, I've saved them in my Instastories.The 16th International Architecture Exhibition runs until November 25th, 2018.
Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun
The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.
Michelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point. However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes. We took it.It was great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town. The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day. It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday. Our day trip was the perfect time to go. It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.
Montepuclciano has a population of about 14,000. It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.
As you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town. Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square. The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511. The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.
We ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano. We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria. The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee. Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do. These views are worth the price
I must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio. The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.
Photos: Me and my iPhone
The Design Files - Something's Gotta Give, Fifteen Years Later
I follow writer/director Nancy Meyers on Instagram. She recently published a post regarding the upcoming fifteenth anniversary of her film. I cannot believe it's been that long since the release of one of the best interior design films ever produced. Yes, I know the movie isn't about interior design but the production design was so exquisite that years later the interiors, by Production Designer, Jon Hutman and Set Decorator, Beth Rubino, look as lovely as ever.I was speaking with a Kitchen & Bath interior designer and she said that her clients are still referencing the kitchen. Creating interiors that are timeless, yet fresh, isn't easy.The interiors help us get a sense of who Erica Barry is. She's a very successful woman of a certain age (56), who has completely shut down in the romance department. This was one of Diane Keaton's best roles. Jack Nicholson was fantastic as well. These type of sharp comedic roles are not easy and Jack's Harry Sanborn character, in particular, was complicated. We were rooting for Erica from the get go. Harry, if played by a lesser actor, may have come across as a complete cad, a boring cliché of a man in his mid 60s chasing after women more than half his age. Jack and Diane had great chemistry. You can't manufacture magic.This movie had it all. I wish Hollywood would make more romantic comedies about and for adults. I keep hearing and reading this genre is dead, at least for feature films. This is unfortunate. The world needs more romance!For now, let us enjoy this beautiful home. The exterior was from a real home in Southhampton. The interiors were built on a sound stage.For more information regarding sourcing and how the interiors were created, check out Interior Designer Linda Merrill's post.
Photos: Modern Country Style except where noted.
Ten Years Ago I Moved to Rome, Italy
The two things people ask me all the time when they've learn how long I've lived here are, if I have any regrets or when am I moving back to America.If this were a sabbatical, I would've moved back by now and more importantly, I wouldn't have gone through the hell that is getting a driver's license in Europe (I hear Germany's is beyond difficult).Regarding regrets, I have none. Even during my worst days in Italy, I never got homesick. Of course I miss my family and friends. I do miss the efficiency of America and I know it would be easier to be a business owner and writer there. Rome's going through a horrible downturn but that makes me want to move out of Rome, not the country.As of today I have lived in Rome longer than any other city (after college). I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and moved there from New York City. If I had moved directly to Rome from NYC maybe things would've felt differently. When I arrived in Rome, I was a very bitter and broken person. Hollywood had worn me down. I was numb, which is not a good trait for anyone who works in a creative field.My first trip to Italy was in 2005. I wasn't an Italophile. I just wanted to travel to a new place, see some art, eat some good food. In junior high school and high school I knew I would live overseas one day. Italy was not on my list. That first trip to Rome surprised me and changed my life in so many ways. It felt like home but I wasn't planning on moving anywhere until retirement. My Hollywood friends were skeptical. They said had I traveled to Iowa, I would've had the same reaction. So I returned the following year after getting a new job. Nope, that first visit wasn't a fluke.
During the fall of 2007 I was working on a movie in Toronto. I was one of the executive producers and was on location for almost three months. I was so happy despite the six day shoot, very long hours, and night shoots (killer). As the wrap date approached, I was speaking with my dad. My parents had moved back to St. Martin, after retirement, a few years earlier. He could hear the anxiety in my voice. My dad asked me why I was going back to Los Angeles. I told him I had wonderful bosses. He thought that was great but why wasn't I moving to Italy now? What was I waiting for? I wasn't living in Los Angeles, just existing. New days are not guaranteed to us.I was shook. My fellow first generation Americans will feel me when I say my parents were NOT go follow your bliss kind of folks. They were grounded, intense Caribbean people. I'm pretty sure my mom blames the fact that I'm not married on my lack of an advanced degree (ha). My parents were very hard on us growing up and had high expectations. So for my dad to say go to Italy, that was earth shattering to me. I mean, what would I do in Italy? It's not as if I had an engineering degree and could go work for a Fortune 500 company.Three years to the month of my first visit, I said good-bye to everything I knew and moved to a foreign country. Looking back, it was a completely bonkers move.
It's been tough at times living here and last year, in particular, was difficult on a micro and macro level. I'm not the only person who was glad to say hello to 2018. 2017 was probably one of the most stressful years of my adult life. I got through it (with help from my family and friends) and this year is shaping up to be much better.It may sound melodramatic to say moving to Italy saved me. Moving here pushed me out of my comfort zone and made me wake up. I'm no longer a spectator in my life. I'm aware of time passing and how little of it we have. When you walk past buildings that are over a thousand years old, it put things in perspective. Moving to Italy forced me to stop running, look at the bigger picture, and figure out exactly why I was working in Hollywood. My post-Jumping the Broom disappointments (not with the movie) turned out to be the best thing that every happened to me. I didn't see it at the time. I wouldn't have interned for an interior designer, started my own company, and worked/be working on incredible design/decorating projects had things gone differently. It's through my work in design that I was able to reconnect with my love of storytelling, my creativity, and my passions.I never stopped screenwriting but kept my scripts to myself. One of my mentors/friends, a senior Hollywood film agent, was in town with his wife over the Christmas holidays. He asked me what I was working on. He has always encouraged me to do both, to write and to decorate. I felt strongly I had to pick a lane. He disagreed. Many creative people are multi-faciated. During a yoga retreat last fall, I realized that I was still trying to follow a linear career path and not being open to all possibilities. I was still holding on to some bitterness regarding my Hollywood career that I truly needed to let go. How could I work smarter, not just harder? Who gets to decide what success looks like? I must continue to focus on the craft of screenwriting (and improving) not the things I have no control over.The first project I sold as a screenwriter was a teen movie to an Italian film company within a few months of moving here. However, the majority of my time was spent in my apartment alone writing/working in English with people back in Los Angeles. I was in a giant expat bubble. Four years ago when I opened my company, I started working in Italy and in Italian. I jumped into the deep end of the pool. I couldn't have a situation where expensive custom furniture and/or draperies were made incorrectly because my upholsterer misunderstood my janky Italian. I had to step it up. My get by Italian was fine for a casual conversation not business.The last time I was in Los Angeles I was there for Hollywood meetings and for a interior design project. I was having dinner with a friend before my flight back to Rome. I said that Los Angeles wasn't so bad and that I was looking forward to my next trip. She wondered if I had fallen and hit my head on the pavement. I was serious. I saw another side to the city running around Los Angeles with my client to different showrooms. L.A. traffic is still atrocious though.I have acquired some patience since moving to Rome, a big improvement. I cook more, eat well (said goodbye to no-carb/all diets), and my cost of living is much lower. I'm healthier, more physically active, and learning new things all the time. I'm fortunate to have incredible friends here who are like family.During my first month in Italy made a comment that I get chills when I see the Pantheon. Someone replied it was only because everything was new to me. I know that's not true. Ten years on I still get chills when I walk past the Pantheon. I don't take that for granted.
