Rome, Travel, Travel in Italy Arlene Gibbs Rome, Travel, Travel in Italy Arlene Gibbs

Where To Go In Rome

I’m not surprised by how crowded Rome is these days even though we’re months away from the height of the high season. My friends who work in hospitality here tell me that hotels are booked solid until November (!) with August pretty available. More restaurants and cafes are staying open during August in the Historic Center now. However, I still don’t recommend Rome in August, especially if it’s your first trip. It’s too hot and the locals who don’t work in tourism/hospitality clear out. Did I mentioned how hot it is?

I’m receiving so many emails and DMs regarding where to go/what to do in Rome. I wrote a post where to eat HERE and where to drink HERE.

Below are my suggestions:

The Galleria Villa Borghese.  This is the museum I suggest people go to if they don't have time to visit the Vatican Museum (or even if they do).  It's small. There’s a two hour limit.  You have to make reservations and can do so online. The permanent collection is fantastic. It’s in a beautiful villa in one of Rome’s prettiest parks. I recommend spending time in Villa Borghese Park too.

Museum Palazzo Altemps - near Piazza Navona, unless a student group is on a field trip, this museum is rarely crowded. Tiny but interesting.  Wrote about it HERE

Outside of the Centro Storico is Montemartini. Very unique space. Wrote about it HERE

Another favourite (and often overlooked) museum is Galleria Doria Pamphilj - get the audio tour. It’s narrated by a member of the family.

Museo dell Ara Pacis - The exhibits change but the altar created for Augustus, 9 BC, is upstairs. The building, designed by architect Richard Meier, was quite controversial as it’s one of the few newish/modern buildings in that area and people said it looked like an air conditioning unit.

Capitolini Museum - One of the oldest museums in the world, you will find a lot of history and pieces from Ancient Rome. The views from Piazza del Campidoglio, and the cafe of the museums, are great. This is where City Hall is located.


There are over nine hundred churches in Rome, some favorites:

San Clemente  - it's worth the fee to go down to the ground level to see relics from when it was a pagan temple

Santa Maria del Popolo - the Caravaggios

Santa Maria in Trastevere  - the mosaics 

San Luigi dei Francesi - this is the French Catholic church in Rome. More Caravaggios

Santa Cecilia in Trastevere - located on the quieter side of Trastevere

Sant’ Agnese - in Piazza Navona

Santa Maria in Maggiore Basilica - that ceiling

Saint Peter's Basilica - note, there can be long security lines

San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane - this small church is a Borromini masterpiece and many people walk right by it

Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza - another Borromini masterpiece. Sometimes there are free concerts in the courtyard

Basilica Santa Anna Maria in Ara Coeli - located next to Piazza del Campidoglio (there are a lot of steps) this church is the church of Rome, Senatus Populusque Romanus. I went to a midnight Christmas Mass here and it was very moving.

Not a church but a cemetery. Cimitero Acattolico, also known as the Protestant Cemetery, is where many famous poets, artists, writers, etc., who were not Catholic and/or Italian are buried. The grounds are beautiful. Shelley himself said so and he was buried here after he drowned in the Bay of Lerici.



Of course:

The Trevi Fountain - gets crowded... go very early or late

Piazza Navona - the Bernini fountain!

Piazza Farnese - it’s very close to Pz Navona. Palazzo Farnese is the French Embassy and there are two pretty fountains in this piazza.

Views from the Giancolo HIll - The fountain is breathtaking too

Doria Pamphilj Park - Along with Villa Borghese, this is one of the largest parks in Rome

The Pantheon - get there early or before the cruise ship lines.  

The Colosseum/The Forum - It’s a good idea to get a guided tour, especially for the Forum

The Old Jewish Quarter - Second only to Venice, this is one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world. Of the 1023 citizens deported to Auschwitz, only 16 survived. Keep an eye out for the Sampietrini stones covered with a brass plates with their names in front of their homes. This is where the infamous Turtle Fountain is located.

The View from the top of the Spanish Steps - on a clear day it’s quite pretty and I love the Bernini fountain at the bottom of the steps in Piazza di Spagna

Interesting neighborhoods outside the Centro Storico:

EUR - for the history and fascinating architecture. Read more HERE.

Garbatella -  read more HERE.

Walk along Via Appia Antica.  Car traffic is limited on Sundays to the few people who live on the Appia.  Read more HERE.


SHOPPING:
Check out the stores on Via Babuino (high end) and in Monti (mid-to high).  Both streets have clothing and design stores.

For design, Via Margutta has some great shops, like the store BLEND (which changed its name from Flair).

Chez Dede on Via Monserrato is wonderful and one of my favourite stores in Rome. The whole street is great for shopping. 

Many of the international luxury brands, Prada. Gucci, etc. are on Via Condotti and its side streets.


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My Ciao Bella interview with JJ Martin, founder of La Double J

Buongiorno a tutti!

Erica Firpo's Ciao Bella has published my interview with JJ Martin. Yes, it's true I rave about her and her brand often but I know first hand how difficult it is to be an entrepreneur in Italy. What JJ has created is incredible.

It was truly a pleasure to sit down with this very talented and dynamic woman to discuss interior design, creativity, and living in Italy.

To The Max: Designing Milan’s La Double J Store

Brick and mortar maximalism

When I read LaDoubleJ (those fabulous maximalist dresses from JJ Martin, Patron Saint of Patterns) was going to open its first retail shop, I couldn’t wait to see its interiors, not just because I’m a decorator but also as a fan of JJ Martin’s colorful brand. As luck and business would have it, I had to travel to Milan to meet with a new client. And Erica, knowing that visiting the new La Double J store was a “must” on my list,  asked me if I could write about the store.  JJ was gracious to carve out some time in her busy schedule to sit down with Ciao Bella to discuss the design of her new store and her brand.   

Arlene Gibbs: First question.  What inspired you to open an actual store, brick and mortar, at this moment when all we hear is that retail is dead. It’s all about e-commerce.  No one goes to stores anymore.

JJ Martin: Well, we started as a direct to consumer business and an online business so I totally agree with that.  I don’t think it makes sense at all, these brands that were built on brick and mortar with three hundred shops around the world. It doesn’t feel relevant anymore, especially these cookie cutter shops that all look the same.  When you scan these streets, you can’t even tell the difference.  They all have white walls, really bright light, chrome or gold finishes.

AG:  You could be on Rodeo Drive.

JJ: You could be anywhere.  So, a huge network of stores was never my vision nor will it be.  However, we stared in this little showroom in Milan that was our showroom, our atelier, our office, our workroom, everything, and we were also selling clothes at the very beginning from there. It literally did like five things.  What we kept hearing from people all the time was, “don’t you have a place we could try on more clothes?”

To read the rest of the interview, click HERE.

Photos courtesy of La Double J.

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Villa Necchi, A Must See/Do in Milan

Ciao from a rainy morning in Rome.

I know I said I was going to write on this here blog more often but work this year has been very hectic. Perhaps things will slow down during Spring '22! I'm not complaining as these are good problems to have, especially during these strange pandemic times.

I went to Milan last week, just overnight, for the Salone. The energy in Milan was incredible. I felt safe going to showrooms and events as there were Covid protocols in place. Milan and the surrounding area were hit hard last year and no one wants to return to a lockdown.

I'm writing this while still on a Design Week high. I went to Milan in July for work and I was finally able to visit this palazzo. It has been on my list for ages and seeing the movie IO SONO AMORE/I AM LOVE only added fuel to my desire. The full name is Villa Necchi Campiglio but most know it as Villa Necchi.

Villa Necchi was designed and built by architect Piero Portaluppi from 1932 -1935 for the owner of the Necchi company, Angelo Campiglio, his wife Gigina and his sister-in-law, Nedda. There were some modifications and additions added by Architect Tomaso Buzzi after WWII. His style was a bit more traditional and you can see the difference as you walk through the villa. The villa was occupied by the fascists during the war and the family called Architect Buzzi once they were able to finally return to their home.

It took my breath away and pictures do not do it justice. It's amazing to see how modern these rooms from the early 20th century look and feel! It takes serious talent to design spaces that are classic yet contemporary. Portaluppi and his clients were truly ahead of their time. The Necchis entertained often and the house's public areas layout reflect this. This house was THE place to be back in the day.

The family had no children and instead donated their home to the non-profit FAI, the Italian National Trust.

The home has a large private garden with a swimming pool and tennis courts. Remember this is in the center of a large city! The villa is also filled with art, mostly 18th century, including artists Canaletto, Marieschi, and Tiepolo.

Look at the ceiling in the library! That design is a Portaluppi signature and you see it employed discreetly through out the villa.

I won't say anything to spoil the film for those who haven't seen it yet but one of the most important scenes in the movie takes place in this location.

The bathrooms were to die for. Again, I couldn't believe there were built in the 1930s. The veranda was another favorite room. The furniture was original and I could see those pieces being sold today. Even the utility rooms were design heaven. The Necchi family had custom Richard Ginori dinner service. I love the design of the "C" logo.

Style/fashion lovers will get a kick out of the sisters' built-in closets. The custom pieces from Gucci, Ferragamo, and Hermès are gorgeous. Quality and design like that never goes out of style.

The guides were very helpful, bilingual and there were two or three on each floor. I cannot recommend visiting this gem enough. My pictures and videos from this fantastic tour are in my Instagram highlights.

Buon weekend!

All villa photos: Giorgio Majno, © FAI — Fondo Ambiente Italiano

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Dream of Italy: Travel, Transform, and Thrive

Buongiorno from Rome!

Things have been quite hectic here even though we're in the middle of summer. I'm staying put this year. I might go away for a long weekend in late August but it depends on what's going on with this Delta variant.

The tourists are back. Not pre-pandemic number of course but what a change from a few months ago. People are so excited to be here. For those who love Italy and/or would like to do some armchair traveling, there's a special Dream of Italy episode currently airing on PBS stations nationwide (USA). It's part of their pledge season, with a notable appearance by actor Joe Mantegna, with host Kathy McCabe.

Kathy and I looking at the gorgeous architecture on Via Monserrato. One of the prettiest streets in Rome.

In this special Kathy interviewed expats/immigrants who have moved to Italy part-time or full-time. She focuses on eleven essential elements of the Italian lifestyle – the land, food, family, art & culture, beauty, pace of life, passion, movement, community, celebrations and sense of home– through our stories.  Kathy discusses how one can incorporate the values, inspiration, and beauty of Italy into their lives. There are also practical tips for people who are interested in moving to Italy for a sabbatical or permanently.

Interview with Kathy at Cantiere Galla Design showroom. I spend a lot of time here for clients.

Some of the people who were interviewed (Sting, Trudie Styler, Francis Mayes, Francis Ford Coppola) are very famous. Some, ahem me, are not. We all have unique stories and experiences of how and why we came to Italy. For more information and to find the airdates for your area click HERE. At the moment it's only airing in the USA and some areas in Canada that receive PBS stations. It should be on available for international viewers in 2022.

Some BTS with friends on the rooftop terrace of Hotel de la Ville.

This special was filmed before the pandemic. I'm thrilled to be a part of this program that speaks to the wonderful things about living in Italy.

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Rome Report – What’s In Season At The Farmers Market?

Buongiorno!

It’s good to be home.  I do miss my family, the beaches, and the warm baguettes, of course but three months is a long time to be away.  

One thing I love most about living in Italy is grocery shopping.  Yes, that’s correct.  When I lived in Los Angeles, I had business lunches and dinners almost every weekday (and some weekends).   When I did cook, I would think about what I wanted to make and then go to the Gelson’s in my neighborhood or to Bristol Farms and buy what I needed. 

I was a big fan of the Santa Monica Farmers’ market and maybe one or two Saturdays a month I would hop on The 10 and pay $30 for three green peppers.  The produce was outstanding but very expensive. The market was open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. 

When I moved to Rome and found the Trionfale Market I couldn’t get over the quality of the ingredients (Santa Monica level) and how reasonably priced it was.  One third to half of what I was paying in Campo dei Fiori’s market.  I do have excellent supermarkets in my neighborhood but I buy all my produce and occasionally meat and fish at the market.  My meat consumption plummeted once I move to Italy.  I eat more grains and vegetables now, it’s easier here.  I don’t miss the meat and when I do buy it, I know where it’s coming from.  Meat is definitely more expensive here than in the States.  It’s a once a week thing or maybe once every other week.  

I had to completely rethink how I cook and shop for food after I moved here.  One day I wanted to make a broccoli frittata.  I cannot tell you why I was fixated on that dish that weekend but I wrote out my little list and off to the market I went.

I got to Trionfale and there was no broccoli to be found.  It wasn’t in season.  I was thrown!  One vendor told me I could probably buy some at a supermarket but he warned me that it wouldn’t taste that great.  Now, I have a better sense of what’s in season.  I do cook “international” foods as well but even then; I try to keep it seasonal.   I know my palate has changed since I've moved to Rome.  For example, I used to eat tomatoes all the time that had no flavor.  I spent my formative years in New Jersey. I know good tomatoes.  My dad used to grow them in our vegetable garden yet, there I was buying tomatoes that tasted like cardboard.  Never again! Even the out of season supermarket tomatoes here tastes better. 

I’ve been gone a while so I was very curious to see what currently was in season.  I went to the Mercato Flamino II. 

Look at these beauties! 

Puntarelle found only during the winter. The salad, made with garlic and anchovies, is very Roman (and very good).

This neighborhood is east of mine.  It’s a bit of a walk but not as far as Trionfale.  I usually go to Trionfale if I need to see my butcher.  There’s a great butcher closer to me but we call them Diamonds.  

These markets are open six days a week Monday – Saturday.  There are two small ones very close to my house or I can go to the bigger ones in Trieste, Prati, or near Termini. 

The market by Circo Massimo (open on weekends) is outstanding.  That market is local.  Farmers and food from this region only.  

Buon weekend a tutti!

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The Most Beautiful Private Terrace in Rome *

Last week my friend Livia invited me to an intimate lunch at the lovely home of Marchesa Violante Guerrieri Gonzaga.

This view.

Livia getting her Prosecco on.

Violante is one of the most down to earth Marchese I’ve ever met.  Hello, I’ve met people who are Kings and Queens of nothing and yet, as the kids would say, they had a stank attitude.  Violante welcomed us into her family’s home with graciousness and warmth.   She’s a very talented chef, artist, painter, and photographer.   Violante founded Vio’s Cooking after attending the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and culinary school.  

The lunch Violante prepared was delicious.  The award-winning wine, San Leonardo, came from her family’s vineyard located in Northern Italy near Lake Garda. The floral arrangements by Alessandro Cambi were gorgeous.  I enjoyed seeing a few of my friends and meeting people in person that I’ve previously “met” only on Instagram.

Violante did all the decorative painting in this room.

Check out Alessandro’s IG. Love his work.

Violante went to her local market in Campo dei Fiori for the ingredients.

As a decorator I completely lost it (but in a calm and kept it to myself way) over the interior design. So much inspiration. It felt like a real home, collected and personal. The anthesis of the cookie-cutter interiors that are clogging up Pinterest and Instagram.

Bullion fringe is making a big comeback in the States. This view. I cannot.

Violante’s home is located in one of the most historic palaces in Rome, Palazzo Taverna. Built in the 15th century, the palazzo is in the heart of the Centro Storico. I walked by it often when I lived on Via del Pellegrino and was curious about the 17th century fountain in the courtyard, which is visible from the street. This was the second time I’ve been to the palazzo but the first time during the day. Once you’re inside you don’t feel as if you’re in large city. It’s quiet. All you hear is the fountain.

We ate inside as it had been raining all week and that morning. We lucked out with the weather.

We stopped by Violante’s boutique after coffee.

Caffe realness.

It’s located on the ground floor of the palazzo. I have my eye on these blue and green glasses.

The shop is charming. They sell tableware designed by Violante and delicacies from her family’s estate, among other gorgeous items. The holidays are coming up and this boutique has wonderful, unique gifts.

Speaking of gifts, each of us were given a copy of Violante’s cookbook. It was presented in gift bag tied with a pretty green ribbon. The color was similar to the color of the plates that we used during the luncheon. It’s a simple thing but I appreciate that level of attention to detail.

Plate designed by Violante.

Love the mix of glassware and the floral arrangement.

Sitting on the upper terrace overwhelmed by all the beauty. Photo by Cassandra of Travel Italian Style.

BANANAS!

Violante offers small cooking classes in her home and also caters events.  For more information about her cooking, or her shop, please visit her website at Vio’s Cooking.

*True, I haven’t been to every single terrace in Rome, but I feel comfortable with this terrace being in the top ten.

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White Kitchens - Yes or No?

Put me firmly in the YES camp. I'm the middle of sourcing cabinets for our Anguilla Beach House Project.  As I read various online design magazines and blogs, it appears that white kitchens are "out".  People are sick of them.  Apparently, they are boring and show no creativity.

I disagree.  I strongly believe that kitchens and bathrooms are not the places to be trendy.  They are the most expensive rooms to build or renovate.  Twenty-four percent of Americans move to a new house every five years. In other countries people tend not to move as often.  If one is worried about the resale value of their home, it would make sense to have a kitchen that is not dated.

A well-designed white kitchen is timeless. This is one reason they're so popular.  One cannot tell if the kitchen was renovated five months ago or fifteen years ago.  A homeowner can always swap out hardware or light fixtures to freshen things up or we can use accessories that speak to the trends of the moment. Most people cannot afford (nor want to) gut a functional kitchen just for aesthetic reasons.

White kitchens are not a trend given they've been "in" for almost two decades and were very popular in the 1920s. They are classic.  Seriously, what are people smoking? I think, with the rise of social media, we're burning through trends faster.  There's this need for instant gratification and always looking for something new.  The thing is, most of the hot trends of today will not hold up.

To me it's more important that a workhorse room, like a kitchen, functions well.  Open shelving may not be practical for some families. Maybe your kitchen isn't big enough for a massive island.

If a client wants to go with dark green cabinets, I'm all for it and we'll look for the shade that works best in the space.  However, if a client wants white Shaker cabinets but worries it's too boring, we're going to get the darn Shaker cabinets.  We can find other ways to add some color to the kitchen.

Content driven decorators rarely think about the architecture and/or the function of the space.  Many have moved away from working with clients and instead continuously buy and flip houses.  That's a very different mindset than creating a home for yourself or for a client.

As I work on this beach house kitchen, I'm mindful of the trends but we will have white Shaker cabinets as they fit the space, the location, and the architecture of the home.  If the house were inland or a primary residence maybe we would chose a different color.

Here are some kitchens from talented designers and decorators.  Notice that they don't  look the same.  I wish someone would tell them that these kitchens are boring or "so over".    

This kitchen is in a 1922 Colonial that was recently renovated by interior designer, David Nastasi.

Modern Farmhouse by House of Jade Interiors.

Photo. The Spruce

A villa in Tuscany designed by Ilaria Miani.  The estate belonged to her grandparents and is now owned by her brother.  I was one of her interns and I remember her custom Whatnot shelving well.

Photo: Elle Decor

Interior designer's Mark D. Sikes's kitchen in the Hollywood Hills.

Photo: Mark D. Sikes

A minimalist NYC kitchen. Love the terrazzo floor. Interior Design by Pierce Allen.

Photo: Elle Decor

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September!

I hope everyone had a wonderful summer.Yes, I know technically it's still summer despite the fact that some retailers in the States are already selling Spiced Pumpkin Latte mixes and there are bloggers talking about Halloween.

I don't understand this rush.  Let's enjoy this month and getting ready for fall.  This is my favorite time of year/season.  Not that I dislike the other three (well maybe winter, lack of sun and daylight is not my scene) but there's something about fall that makes me happy.  I was one of those geeky kids who couldn't wait to buy back-to-school supplies.  In my young mind there weren't many things more exciting that a Mead Trapper Keeper notebook.

Unfortunately, back-to-school shopping for clothes wasn't as fun as my Caribbean mom was not about that life.  Every time I asked for something that EVERYONE was wearing, my mom would say that I was going to school to get an education, not for a fashion show.  My dad backed her up as he didn't know (or care) about the difference between Girbaud, or Guess, jeans and a random pair from wherever.

I still look at fall as a beginning even though I graduated from college back in the Stone Age.  Like spring, it's an opportunity to hit the reset button.

One of the color trends for Fall 2018 is this deep blue called Sargasso Sea.

Photo: Pantone

I’m feeling this cape but I might be too short for this lewk. Love the pop of color from Ms. Palermo’s shoes. Great combo.

This classic pattern from Schumacher is an excellent example of Hollywood Regency glamour.

There are so many beautiful colors to choose from but this one is in my top three, okay five.

Photo: Le Creuset

I cannot write about September without listening to this old school favorite. It dropped in 1978 and if you play it at any wedding reception, party, or cookout now people will still dance.

Here's to a great fall!

p.s.   Here's a fantastic piece from NPR regarding why this song is so popular years later.

I asked Jeffrey Peretz, a professor of music theory at New York University's Clive Davis Institute, what makes that groove so powerful. He says a lot of it has to do with how the music unfolds. The song's very structure is an endless cycle that keeps us dancing and wanting more."

There's four chords in the chorus that just keep moving forward and never seem to land anywhere — much like the four seasons," he says. "It's the end of summer, it's the beginning of fall, it's that Indian summertime, it's the transition from warm to cool."

The trigger for that yearning feeling, Peretz says, is the opening line. White asks, "Do you remember?" and we supply the memories. It's a song that can bring all of the generations together, which makes it perfect for family gatherings. The true meaning is up to us — including, Allee Willis says, that strangely specific date."

We went through all the dates: 'Do you remember the first, the second, the third, the fourth ... ' and the one that just felt the best was the 21st," Willis explains. "I constantly have people coming up to me and they get so excited to know what the significance was. And there is no significance beyond it just sang better than any of the other dates. So ... sorry!"

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Palazzo Merulana, Rome

I noticed this large abandoned palazzo when I first moved to Rome.  I wondered what the history of the building was and why it was falling apart.I found out that it was a city owned property built in 1929.  It used to be the headquarters for the Health Administration.  Once those offices moved, the building fell into disrepair with some sections abandoned for over sixty years.Palazzo Merulana reopened last month and it's a beauty.  Stunning.The renovations took only three years and was a private-public partnership.  The space now holds the important collection of Claudio and Elena Cerasi.  The couple focused on works created in the early 20th century, with the majority between WW 1 and WW 2.  The Cerasi family owns a prominent construction company that has worked on projects such as the MAXXI Museum and other public and private works.The Cerasi Foundation would like to see the Palazzo become an important space for visual art, cinema, music, and theatre.  They're working closely with several local cultural orgnaizaions.  This is quite a gift to the city.A ticket to see the exhibit is four euros.  There's a small, charming cafe on the ground and outdoor seating on the patio.  The terrace is schedule to open in mid-July and the top floor is reserved for cultural events. IMG_8820.jpg  IMG_8815.jpg  Here is a short clip about the museum.https://youtu.be/SHw3vc-5fq0 The museum's in a very accessible location. It's about a ten minute walk from the Colosseum with easy access to the Metro and the Tram.121 Via Merulana, 00185, Rome    

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The Design Files - Royal Wedding Dresses

You may have heard that there's a royal wedding this weekend in the U.K.I'm very curious about Meghan's wedding dress.  Her style is classic.  She wears the clothes, not the other way around.  Meghan's not jumping on every random trend and clearly knows what works for her figure.  The only look I didn't love was her dress for her official engagement photos.  The dress was stunning but I wasn't sure why she was wearing it during a day shoot and Prince Harry's suit was too casual for the dress.Below are three royal wedding dresses that I adore.  They all have beautiful silhouettes, the brides look comfortable, and the styles are not dated.  I watched Princess Diana's wedding and remember even as a kid thinking her dress was (to reference one of my favorite movies of all time) too meringue.  Perhaps it because she was younger than the bridges below,  had a very sheltered life, and it was the early 80s.   Princess Diana was drowning in her dress.Princess Grace was married in 1956 and this dress is still influencing wedding and formal dress designers.  It was designed by Helen Rose who was a costume designer for MGM Studios.  She designed two dresses, which were gifts from the studio to their star.  Helen was the CD on four of Princess Grace's MGM movies.Gorgeous and timeless.grace_kelly_main_2_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqfXEeYQxpWLzsKpj6iiV1csxzV-lUVfPAgAjHFtlxbKk.jpg Princess Catherine 2011.  Designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. Sarah took over as Creative Director of the house in 2010 after McQueen's death.  I don't know if it's rule that shoulders must covered for church wedding in the UK but this dress definitely helped bring back sleeves for wedding dresses.The sleeveless wedding dress had dominated for years.  It didn't matter that the style was hard to pull off and not universally flattering.  Bridal dress manufactures are happy to make this style because it's cheaper to make.  Many American brides complained about the difficulty of finding wedding dresses with any kind of sleeve that wasn't dowdy and/or dated.  That changed after 2011.This dress is modern and fresh.e87778d2648b8ac7feb2b6eac9a4f2eb.jpeg51d489a9c0232f652a959add38c2e5c3.jpeg Princess Mabel 2004.  The Princess married the late Dutch Prince Johan Frisco in a custom Viktor & Rolf dress.  Instead of buttons, the fashion forward Dutch designers used bows.  The cut on this dress is beyond.   The bows add a bit of whimsy.The bride turned down their more conventional designs and asked for something memorable.   It's unique without being a costume.johan-friso-mabel-holland.jpg[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VQMP8LYEV4&w=560&h=315]

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Montepulciano - Under A Tuscan Sun

The other week, my friend Michelle and I decided to meet in Chiusi for lunch and then take the train to Montepulciano, a hill town in southern Tuscany near Siena.IMG_8234.jpgMichelle lives in Florence and Chiusi was the prefect half-way point.  However, once we were in Chiusi we saw the sporadic train schedule and noticed that there was a bus leaving in thirty minutes.  We took it.It was  great move as we later found out that the train station is quite a distance from the hill town.  The bus dropped us off right at the bottom of the hill.I've been to Montepulciano once before on a New Year's Day.  It was freezing, packed with tourists, and quite a few places were closed for the holiday.  Our day trip was the perfect time to go.  It's wasn't too crowded and the weather was glorious.IMG_8257.jpgIMG_8246.jpgMontepuclciano  has a population of about 14,000.  It's known for its Vino Nobile red wine (it's surrounded by vineyards), its architecture (no major new buildings since the 16th century) and the views.IMG_8238.jpgAs you enter the main door/gate, you arrive at The Corso which is the commercial hub of the town.  Take this winding street up, and up, until you reach Piazza Grande the beautiful main square.  The unfinished brick facade of the Duomo is very striking.Montepulciano formed an alliance with Florence in 1511.  The Medici's asked two of the most successful architects in Italy, Vignola and Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, to  renovate many of the noble families's palazzi and to make the public spaces grander.IMG_8302.jpg IMG_8298.jpgWe ended our day in Montepulciano with aperitivi at the historic Caffè Poliziano.   We met up with two of Michelle's friends who were on their way to Umbria.  The Caffè was opened in 1886 and is a favorite with the locals for coffee.  Of course prices are lower if you stand at the bar. If you can get one of the tiny tables on the small back terrace, do.  These views are worth the priceIMG_8315.jpgIMG_8328.jpg IMG_8334.jpg IMG_8338.jpg IMG_8335.jpg IMG_8318.jpgI must to return to Montepulciano and hope to visit Sangallo's masterpiece, San Biagio.  The church is located a few meters from the hilltop's walls and inspired St. Peter's Basilica and other churches.IMG_8267.jpgIMG_8261.jpg IMG_8245.jpg IMG_8319.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone

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The Design Files - Something's Gotta Give, Fifteen Years Later

I follow writer/director Nancy Meyers on Instagram.  She recently published a post regarding the upcoming fifteenth anniversary of her film.  I cannot believe it's been that long since the release of one of the best interior design films ever produced.  Yes, I know the movie isn't about interior design but the production design was so exquisite that years later the interiors, by Production Designer, Jon Hutman and Set Decorator, Beth Rubino, look as lovely as ever.I was speaking with a Kitchen & Bath interior designer and she said that her clients are still referencing the kitchen.  Creating interiors that are timeless, yet fresh, isn't easy.The interiors help us get a sense of who Erica Barry is.  She's a very successful woman of a certain age (56), who has completely shut down in the romance department.  This was one of Diane Keaton's best roles.  Jack Nicholson was fantastic as well.  These type of sharp comedic roles are not easy and Jack's Harry Sanborn character, in particular, was complicated.  We were rooting for Erica from the get go. Harry, if played by a lesser actor, may have come across as a complete cad, a boring cliché of a man in his mid 60s chasing after women more than half his age. Jack and Diane had great chemistry. You can't manufacture magic.This movie had it all.  I wish Hollywood would make more romantic comedies about and for adults.  I keep hearing and reading this genre is dead, at least for feature films.  This is unfortunate.  The world needs more romance!For now, let us enjoy this beautiful home. The exterior was from a real home in Southhampton.  The interiors were built on a sound stage.For  more information regarding sourcing and how the interiors were created, check out Interior Designer Linda Merrill's post.ad2.png.jpegModernCountryStylef.pngmoderncountrystyle1.pngmoderncountry style.jpg7.jpgSomethings-Gotta-Give-House-Sold-for-41-Million.pngPhotos:  Modern Country Style except where noted.  

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Ten Years Ago I Moved to Rome, Italy

The two things people ask me all the time when they've learn how long I've lived here are, if I have any regrets or when am I moving back to America.If this were a sabbatical, I would've moved back by now and more importantly, I wouldn't have gone through the hell that is getting a driver's license in Europe (I hear Germany's is beyond difficult).Regarding regrets, I have none.  Even during my worst days in Italy, I never got homesick.  Of course I miss my family and friends.  I do miss the efficiency of America and I know it would be easier to be a business owner and writer there.  Rome's going through a horrible downturn but that makes me want to move out of Rome, not the country.As of today I have lived in Rome longer than any other city (after college).  I lived in Los Angeles for ten years and moved there from New York City.  If I had moved directly to Rome from NYC maybe things would've felt differently.  When I arrived in Rome, I was a very bitter and broken person.  Hollywood had worn me down.  I was numb, which is not a good trait for anyone who works in a creative field.My first trip to Italy was in 2005.  I wasn't an Italophile.  I just wanted to travel to a new place, see some art, eat some good food.  In junior high school and high school I knew I would live overseas one day.  Italy was not on my list.  That first trip to Rome surprised me and changed my life in so many ways.  It felt like home but I wasn't planning on moving anywhere until retirement.  My Hollywood friends were skeptical.  They said had I traveled to Iowa, I would've had the same reaction.  So I returned the following year after getting a new job.  Nope, that first visit wasn't a fluke.positano5:06.jpgDuring the fall of 2007 I was working on a movie in Toronto.  I was one of the executive producers and was on location for almost three months. I was so happy despite the six day shoot, very long hours, and night shoots (killer).  As the wrap date approached, I was speaking with my dad. My parents had moved back to St. Martin, after retirement, a few years earlier.  He could hear the anxiety in my voice. My dad asked me why I was going back to Los Angeles.  I told him I had wonderful bosses.  He thought that was great but why wasn't I moving to Italy now?  What was I waiting for?  I wasn't living in Los Angeles, just existing.  New days are not guaranteed to us.I was shook.  My fellow first generation Americans will feel me when I say my parents were NOT go follow your bliss kind of folks.  They were grounded, intense Caribbean people.  I'm pretty sure my mom blames the fact that I'm not married on my lack of an advanced degree (ha).  My parents were very hard on us growing up and had high expectations.  So for my dad to say go to Italy, that was earth shattering to me. I mean, what would I do in Italy?  It's not as if I had an engineering degree and could go work for a Fortune 500 company.Three years to the month of my first visit, I said good-bye to everything I knew and moved to a foreign country.  Looking back, it was a completely bonkers move.IMG_0824.jpgIMG_0843.jpgIMG_0848.jpgIt's been tough at times living here and last year, in particular, was difficult on a micro and macro level. I'm not the only person who was glad to say hello to 2018.  2017 was probably one of the most stressful years of my adult life.  I got through it (with help from my family and friends) and this year is shaping up to be much better.It may sound melodramatic to say moving to Italy saved me.  Moving here pushed me out of my comfort zone and made me wake up.  I'm no longer a spectator in my life. I'm aware of time passing and how little of it we have.  When you walk past buildings that are over a thousand years old, it put things in perspective.  Moving to Italy forced me to stop running, look at the bigger picture, and figure out exactly why I was working in Hollywood.  My post-Jumping the Broom disappointments (not with the movie) turned out to be the best thing that every happened to me. I didn't see it at the time.  I wouldn't have interned for an interior designer, started my own company, and worked/be working on incredible design/decorating projects had things gone differently.  It's through my work in design that I was able to reconnect with my love of storytelling, my creativity, and my passions.I never stopped screenwriting but kept my scripts to myself.  One of my mentors/friends, a senior Hollywood film agent, was in town with his wife over the Christmas holidays. He asked me what I was working on. He has always encouraged me to do both, to write and to decorate.  I felt strongly I had to pick a lane. He disagreed. Many creative people are multi-faciated.  During a yoga retreat last fall, I realized that I was still trying to follow a linear career path and not being open to all possibilities. I was still holding on to some bitterness regarding my Hollywood career that I truly needed to let go.  How could I work smarter, not just harder?  Who gets to decide what success looks like?  I must continue to focus on the craft of screenwriting (and improving) not the things I have no control over.The first project I sold as a screenwriter was a teen movie to an Italian film company within a few months of moving here.  However, the majority of my time was spent in my apartment alone writing/working in English with people back in Los Angeles.  I was in a giant expat bubble.  Four years ago when I opened my company, I started working in Italy and in Italian.  I jumped into the deep end of the pool. I couldn't have a situation where expensive custom furniture and/or draperies were made incorrectly because my upholsterer misunderstood my janky Italian.  I had to step it up.  My get by Italian was fine for a casual conversation not business.The last time I was in Los Angeles I was there for Hollywood meetings and for a interior design project. I was having dinner with a friend before my flight back to Rome. I said that Los Angeles wasn't so bad and that I was looking forward to my next trip.  She wondered if I had fallen and hit my head on the pavement.  I was serious.  I saw another side to the city running around Los Angeles with my client to different showrooms.  L.A. traffic is still atrocious though.I have acquired some patience since moving to Rome, a big improvement.  I cook more, eat well (said goodbye to no-carb/all diets), and my cost of living is much lower.  I'm healthier, more physically active, and learning new things all the time.  I'm fortunate to have incredible friends here who are like family.During my first month in Italy made a comment that I get chills when I see the Pantheon.  Someone replied it was only because everything was new to me.  I know that's not true.  Ten years on I still get chills when I walk past the Pantheon.  I don't take that for granted.IMG_2337.jpgIMG_1365.jpgIMG_1029.jpg IMG_0956.jpgIMG_1626.jpgIMG_2166.jpgIMG_5643.jpg     

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Day Trip to Alberobello, Puglia

Happy New Year! I hope 2018 brings you much joy, peace, and happiness.I have read about and seen photos of the infamous trulli. Alberobello, which we visited during our Eat, Pray, Move, retreat, was packed with many American tourists even though it was late September.  I can see why.  There's nothing like it.  This region is the only area in Italy that has these unique buildings and there's a concentration of them in Alberobello.The white, cone-roofed houses in Alberobello are a UNESCO World Heritage site.  We had a great tour guide who explained the history of the trulli.  There are many theories but the most popular one (and likely) is that during the 1600's the nobility imposed a high taxation on any permanent structure.  The poor farmers built their houses so the roofs could be dismantled easily, by bascially removing one stone.   Very clever.We were able to tour a trullo.  It was incredible to learn some of them hosted whole families and their livestock.  Other homes were comprised of several trulli with each one being a separate room.Our Masseria had several trulli on its property.  I love how the architects incorporated them into the modern structures.  Inspiring.IMG_6325.jpgThere are trulli with curious symbols on them.  Some are clearly religious, the others?  Another area for debate.IMG_6413.jpgAs you enter the main street of Alberobello, there are two hills.  The one on your left is the old town/Historic Center and the main tourist street.  It's filled with gift shops and places to eat/drink.  There are a few shops selling items made locally. The other hill is more residential and the modern town.  There are several piazzas with caffes, and butchers, clothing stores, etc. etc.  The restaurant EVO, where I had one of the best meals ever, is located in a quiet corner near the Basilica.  I wrote more about it for the Casa Mia Blog. Grazie, Erin for arranging this unforgettable meal and wine pairing.IMG_6408.jpgI suggest spending time on both hills. Alberobello is tiny.  The old town does have a bit of a Disneyland vibe but don't let that stop you.  The view from the "new" town is spectacular.Alberobello was celebrating its Saint's Day.  On the new hill everything was lit.IMG_6418.jpgIMG_6416.jpgIMG_6415.jpgWe were there on a raining cloudy day so my photos of the old town are not great.  Here's a better one from zee Internets.maxresdefault.jpgI took this one in the backyard of a trullo in the old town that was under renovation. IMG_6380.jpgThese trulli were in the new town. IMG_6367.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.  

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I Used to Hate on Florence, Italy.

I went to Florence for the first time during my second vacation in Italy.  I stayed for a couple of days.My second trip was a few years later during the first month I lived in Italy.  I couldn't wait to leave both times.  The second trip was over nine years ago and I believed if I never visited again, it was okay with me.  Never mind that at some point I would need to return for work.  My plan was to get in and get out.I loved the art and thought the city was beautiful, so what was my damage?  I couldn't get a read on the city, no sense of place.  I had visited during the months of May and April respectively and couldn't walk down the streets.  It was that crowded with tourists. Florence felt like a Renaissance amusement park.A friend in Los Angeles was dating a chef in Florence and she suggested I go to his restaurant for lunch.  He couldn't have cared less.  Our mutual friend, had the same experience.  She has spent a lot of time in Italy (from top to bottom) and shrugged at his rudeness saying, "Florence."Earlier this year, I was having drinks with a friend and his dear friend who grew up in Florence.  She told me I needed to return to the city.  That the energy in the city is completely different from my last trip.  My friends who live in Florence said the same thing.  I was skeptical.I decided to go on my birthday to see what my Florentine friends were raving about.  August is blazing hot and still high season, but I found an excellent same day fare on Italo.This is how I felt after my day in Florence.tenorNo, it's not because Rome is a trainwreck right now (please get it together Mayor Raggi).   It's because I completely misread Florence.Man, I used to talk so much smack about Florence.  In my defense, I wasn't the only one.  A friend from NYC, who comes to Italy every year, emailed me during her first trip to Florence and said she was in the seventh circle of hell.  She was there during the height of the high season.Yes, Florence is very popular with tourists and American exchange students.  Since my two earlier trips, friends have moved to Florence and their version of the city is not what I experienced back then.  How could it be?  I was there for four days max.  They live there.  They know Florence.  Their version is the side I was able to see during my trip last month.I had been to all the museums before and I didn't have a crazy itinerary this time.  I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and friends who were in town but otherwise left my schedule open to just walk around.I speak Italian now. When I walked into a store and the salesperson automatically spoke English to me, I responded in Italian. Their mood changed.  Except for one dude at a handmade paper shop.  I was looking for a birthday gift for a friend. I walked in and gave my best, "buon giorno".  He looked at me and then proceeded to ignore me.  Hello, even in Rome they will at least give you a salty, "buon giorno", or "salve" in return.  I'm sorry that he had to work during Ferragosto while the vast majority of his peers were at the sea or in the mountains.  Perhaps he should've closed his store during August?I had lunch at  Osteria dell'Enoteca. I didn't know what restaurants would be opened during Ferragosto.  Thankfully, Georgette (aka Girl in Florence) had a post for that.Georgette and I finally met in person when she was in Rome earlier this year.  I think Florence's tourism board should give her a medal and a lot of money.   I always forward her blog to friends, and friends of friends, who are visiting Florence.I find Tuscan cuisine a bit heavy.  These ravioli were light and delicious.   The waiters were lovely.  It was the perfect birthday lunch.IMG_5747.jpgI met Veronica in Rome through friends at my favorite store Chez Dede.  She saw my Instagram post about the Boboli Gardens and suggested I stop by their store And Company.  I'm thrilled that they were open during Ferragosto.  It's my kind of place.  I was so busy talking and looking at everything, I didn't take any photos.  I did post a few videos on Instastories.Betty Soldi, is one of the owners and a very talented calligrapher. I want all her cards.   Her new book dropped this month and I cannot wait to read it.51H1thFUtlL._SX414_BO1,204,203,200_.jpgI met Melinda at Ditta Artigianale for some iced tea and air conditioning.  Melinda, an American, used to commute between Paris and Florence.  Currently, she lives in Florence full-time.  The last time we saw each other was in Rome years ago.  We had a lot of catching up to do.The Boboli Gardens were one of the many highlights of the day.  It was extremely hot. I wasn't able to take it all in.  I must return in fall so I can spend more time exploring.IMG_5717.jpgIMG_5712.jpgIMG_5732.jpgIMG_5723.jpgThis was my first time visiting the church San Spirito.   No pictures are allowed inside.   Trust me when I say it's worth a visit.IMG_5761.jpgGeorgette has posted a few cocktails from Irene on Instagram and she said the next time I came to Florence we had to meet there.  We did.   The cocktails were on point and the food was great too.IMG_5764.jpgI went to the bar super early because I was basically melting in the heat.  The bartenders couldn't be more friendly despite the fact that I only ordered water to drink, while watching Instastories, as I waited for Georgette and her friend.Irene is the hotel bar/bistrot for the Hotel Savoy.   I loved the vibe with its fantastic interiors and the crowd was a mix of locals and guests of the hotel.  It's located right on Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the Historic Center.  The space is named for Rocco Forte's (the owner) mother.01_irene-restaurant.jpgI took the fast train home.  Florence is only an hour and a half train ride away.IMG_5667.jpgIMG_5668.jpgIMG_5754.jpgThere are a lot of day trippers, via cruise ships, in Florence.  Once the sun goes down the city does empty out a bit.  If you can stay longer than a day, I highly recommend it.I definitely felt a different energy during this trip.  A buzz, a sense that exciting things are happening on the creative front.I left Florence feeling inspired by all the creative and talented people I met.  I cannot wait to return.IMG_5701.jpgPhotos: Me and my iPhone unless otherwise noted.     

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The Design Files - Nursery Tips

My sister and my brother-in-law had their first child last month.  My brother and my sister-in-law have two boys so now I have three nephews.Nurseries are fun rooms to decorate. However, it can be a stressful time for families as they try to get this room together before the baby arrives.  Below are some tips:Don't overlook the function of the room. It's easy to do when you see things like this:DE-ACC20-01_1.jpgMake sure the space is practical.  For example, is it easy to get to the changing table?  Is everything you need for the changing table, wipes, diapers, etc., near the table?Window treatments.I like roman shades.  Curtains are fine for babies but once they start crawling, it's better not to have anything on the floor that they can get tangled in.   Keep an eye on the cords.  Whatever treatment you decide on, can it block out light if needed?  If the curtains are too sheer, get black out rolling shades.Babies don't care what the room look like.  You will spend hours in this room.  Is it comfortable and soothing for you?Not every piece of furniture needs to come from a baby store.  A dresser can be turned into a changing table.To save money, re-purpose furniture and pieces that you already own.The room should reflect the rest of the house.  If you're someone who loves minimalist mid-century, the nursery doesn't need to look like some cutesy, super traditional space with bright colors, and visa versa.  There are ways to incorporate your taste into the room.When it comes to painting the walls, I'm a big fan of grey, and creamy whites for gender neutral colors.  They're classic, and depending on the shade, work with all types of décor from traditional to contemporary.  A light yellow is great too but a more difficult color to work with.Wallpaper. This is the room to add an accent wall with a bold paper:zebra-nursery-wallpaper-red-jenny-lind-crib-senegalese-hamper-basketsIf your taste fall to the more subtle side, something like this gives you a moment without being overwhelming:dcebd71d5113e27d95c5807364fd7eb2Decals are a great for renters.Tree-Wall-Decals-for-Nursery-Ideas.jpgUnless you have time and money to decorate constantly, select furniture, art, and colors that will grow with your baby.  Once they get older, you will redo the space for a big girl/big boy room.It's unlikely that a baby is a Frozen or Hot Wheels fan.  Cutesy or trendy themes will feel dated and will become tired very quickly.Do you have enough storage?  Clutter is the last thing you need in this room.  You don't want trip over things during a midnight feeding when you're exhausted and not the most alert.Don't forget the books, art work, and the accessories.  It's the little things that take a room from ho hum to something special.Here are some more fab nurseries:babygatesnursury-1Dresser_Nursery_fit_pregnancy_blue_little_boys_room_changing_table_white_Minakani_wallpaper_emily_henderson2.jpgTUrIsIONGVOxtransitional-nursery.jpgSave

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Life in Rome - Ercoli 1928 Parioli

I have lived in Parioli for a year now and love it.  When I told people I was moving from the Historic Center to Parioli, everyone had an opinion (mostly negative)."It's so boring," was one of the main criticisms I heard regarding Parioli.  Granted, it's not as exciting as living around the corner from the Drunken Ship but that's okay.There are plenty of great places in this neighborhood to get your aperitivi on and the prices are much lower than the Center. That said, it is a more residential area.  There are rarely any tourists and while there are quite a few American and British expats living in Parioli, I seem to bump into them only at the DOC or Carrefour supermarkets.The latest addition to the 'hood is Ercoli 1928 Parioli and I am here for it.  I met a friend for an aperitivo during the holidays. The first person I saw when we walked in was Federico Tomasselli, the bar manager and one of the best bartenders in Rome. What a very pleasant surprise!  He used to be at Barnum on Via del Pellegrino.  I lived on Pellegrino and spent a lot of time at Barnum because of Federico and Patrick (Patrick is now at Caffe Propaganda).My friend and I sat at the bar and loved it.  The bar's specialty is Vermouth. My friend said their drink was outstanding.  If you don't drink Vermouth, no worries.  Ercoli's wine list is deep and they have a solid cocktails list too.I returned with another friend the other week and this time we sat in the front because the bar was still setting up.We ordered glasses of wine and the Italian cheese plate.  Outstanding.The service was great and everyone was friendly.  Trust me, this is not the norm in Rome where service can range from indifference to outright hostility.  Ha.My friend picked up some takeout for her husband.  I need to ask her how the meatballs were. The cheese selection is fantastic and will be problematic.  I haven't eaten lunch or dinner here yet but have heard very positive reviews about chef Andrea di Raimo's dishes.IMG_0646.jpgcella formaggi.jpgIMG_0727.jpgThere are people don't care how a place looks as long as the drinks are great.  I'm not one of those people.  For food, it's a different story.  There are wonderful restaurants that don't have much of a décor but it's okay because the food is on point.  However, when it come to aperitivi/cocktails, atmosphere is also very important to me.IMG_0709.jpgErcoli Parioli knocks it out of the park.  The space is divided into three areas.  There's a restaurant, a deli, and the bar/cantina.The architect is Roberto Liorni, who's responsible for several of my favorite restaurant spaces including, Pastificio San Lorenzo a Roma, Rosti, and 'Gusto. The latter opened in 1998 and other restaurants are still "referencing" it.  Liorni was also the architect for the film company Cattleya's headquarters.  All these places have their own vibe but with his unmistakable DNA, contemporary, chic, yet comfortable.I adore the interior design at Ercoli.  It's not trying to be the Roman version of a space in Soho or on Abbot Kinney.  It fits the neighborhood and doesn't look like every single restaurant that has opened recently.  I love the plaid...an unexpected touch.DSC08385.jpgDSC08441.jpgIMG_0715.jpgIMG_0725.jpgIMG_0739.jpg12_IMG_4384.jpgDSC08357.jpgDSC08482.jpgDSC08137.jpgI finished the cheese I bought.  I'm trying to avoid Ercoli this week. I don't think I will be successful.

Ercoli 1928 Parioli
Viale dei Parioli, 184
00197 Roma
+39 06 8080084
Other photos taken by me and my iPhone.

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Guest Post - Studying Abroad in Rome

Ciao Bloggisti,This is the last post from our intern, Ariella.  I asked her to write about her overall experience studying in Rome.  It was a pleasure to work with Ariella and we wish her the best as she continues her studies at Cornell University.I have spent the last four and a half months exploring Rome. I've immersed myself in a new culture, started to learn a new language, admired the art and architecture of this amazing city that continues to create history, and meandered through its confusing yet welcoming streets.The illusions and expectations of studying and living abroad in Rome were surpassed by the realities of my temporary new home. The only real challenge seemed to be the difference in the food markets, which I quickly understood. How fun and interesting to be able to select and purchase food that looked real and smelled as it should. The shadows of dust and dirt reminded me of where the food actually came from, as opposed to very manicured and polished plastic packages of foods that all looked the same and had no aroma.Stopping at every cafe along the way as I discovered my neighborhood and others I explored, I found my comfort zone. While homesick for family and friends for a short first week, I'm now faced with the fear of returning as I know I will long for the place I will be leaving behind. I suppose it's good to leave with the feeling of wanting to return as my mission feels unfinished. I fantasize about returning for an extended period of time and can even imagine living here in the future.Rome has surpassed my expectations and has given me much to think about. I have enjoyed the people, the culture and lifestyle, and the way one moves through this city. It has been so interesting to see how such an old city with all its monuments and history has been able to have continuity despite the politics and introduction of globalization. This is evident by all the current problems of immigration, unemployment, housing, circulation etc. It's obvious that to preserve and yet become a place where the locals and visitors can enjoy this eternal city, introducing and maintaining infrastructure in the existing urban fabric has been quite a challenge.It has been a privilege to live and learn in this setting with Rome’s varied colors as they age and as the sun rises and sets through the changing seasons, giving us different perspectives of an everlasting place.IMG_3593.jpg 

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Before & After - Via Banchi Vecchi Project

Ciao Bloggisti,Earlier I wrote about the Via Monserrato project.  One of the other apartments we worked on was located two blocks away on Via Banchi Vecchi.  It was a new apartment for our client.The apartment was empty so we didn't have the same logistical issues but two bathrooms, and the kitchen had to be renovated.   Any time you start opening walls you will have some surprises, especially in a building that's over three hundred years old.The brief from the client stated that the unique original flooring and the red tiles in the kitchen could not be replaced.  The floors weren't in great shape but I like to think of them as adding character.  The client wanted to improve the layout, add a closet in the bedroom, lighten up the very dark kitchen, and make the second bathroom more functional.The bulk of the budget went to the renovation.  Some of the furniture came from the other apartments.  We bought a mix of high-end hardware/fixtures along with budget friendly pieces.The minute the client stated that they had to change the layout, we called an architect.  Fortunately, Domenico Minchilli and his studio took on the project. Square footage wise it was a lot smaller than their usual projects but it was complicated.  We had worked together before which made the renovation process, never easy, smoother.BEFORE - The KitchenIMG_1462.jpgTrue, this is not a primary residence but I don't think any guest would want to spend a lot of time in here.  It was impossible to get a decent shot of this dark, cramped space. The hallway before. The kitchen is behind the wall on the right.IMG_1464.jpg There were structural issues that had to be addressed (electrical, ventilation) so a upgrade/renovation had to happen.IMG_1648.jpgOriginally, we discussed opening just one of the walls.  Studio Minchilli suggested removing all them so you could see the entire arch as you walked into the apartment.AFTERktichenaf1.jpgWhat a difference.  It's light and there's plenty of space to move around. The cabinets are from IKEA but the counter top is quartz from Stone Italiana.   We decided to spend more for a higher quality counter top given the open plan design.  It elevates the entire space, making the IKEA cabinets look more expensive.My anxiety level was not good the morning of this installation. A heavy slab, cut to order.  Three men had to carry it. IMG_4692.jpg The light fixture is custom.  Il Paralume.kitchenaf2.jpg We also installed LED lights on the right.kitchen4wide.jpg BEFORE - Master BathroomIMG_1454.jpgThere were dated, inexpensive white tiles on the floor. AFTERshowerbed1.jpgThe tub was replaced with a shower. bathroom1.jpgWe decided to go with a combination bidet and toilet, which is great for small spaces.  The client wanted a unique sink.  We ordered these (which were quite heavy, our poor contractor) and asked our blacksmith to build the bases.Notice, we didn't put tiles on the walls.  Similar to the Tuscany Project, we wanted the bathrooms to feel more like a room and less clinical.  For a busy family bathroom this option could be impractical but I really like how these rooms feel without tiled walls.The design of the new tiles mimics the original tiled floors in the rest of the apartment.  While these colors look great together, installing three colors is a different story. Complicated.IMG_3977.jpgThe tiles, sink, and all hardware were purchased at LOZZI.The sconces are custom. Il Paralume.Paint is a custom color from Crown.In the bedroom we added a pocket door, a built-in closet, and the lampshades are custom from Il Paralume.bedroomwide.jpg Our carpenter also created a desk in the corner.bedesk.jpg BEFORE - Second bathroom.Extremely tight space, dated tiles.  The layout was terrible and the room very dark.IMG_1467.jpg AFTERWe completely changed the layout. We moved the entrance which enabled us to add space for a proper shower.The door is custom made by our carpenter.  Door fixtures are from Handles.showerbr2.jpg Here's a better shot of the sink with the custom iron base.  As with the other bathroom, we bought a combination bidet and toilet.sinkbr2.jpg BEFORE - Living Roomlrbefore.jpg AFTER - Living RoomLRafter1.jpgThe fantastic artwork is from Due Alberi.  They're based in Rome but ship internationally.Our carpenter added new closets.The dining table is from MADE and the chairs belong to the client.LR2art.jpg The side table came from the Via Monserrato apartment.  We found the lamp at Leroy Merlin (the French version of Home Depot).Lr4table.jpg The client found the credenza online.  The lamps were a great find at Leroy Merlin.  We were so tired and hungry. My client was worried about my mental health as we had just spent hours at the IKEA next door.  I perked up when I saw the lamps on a bottom shelf.  I was so excited.  It was like meeting Idris Elba.lr3lamps.jpg Overall, the apartment feels lighter despite the lack of light (the windows are tiny).  The renovated kitchen and bathrooms compliment the style and architecture of the apartment.  We updated them but without losing the charm.We kept the palette very simple, creamy whites, grey, black, with a touch of red.  The ceiling seems higher and apartment looks/feels bigger.For more information about this vacation rental, please check out Your Suite Rome on Booking.com.Architect: Domenico MinchilliAfter Photos: Vincenzo TambascoSave

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Life in Rome - Day Trip to Spoleto

Ciao Bloggisti,Friends of mine recently bought a weekend place in Spoleto and invited me up for a day.  It's about forty miles south east of Perugia.It was my first trip to Spoleto and I highly recommend a visit.  The Historic Center is very charming with incredible views.  I took a lot of photos.  Below are a few.Ponte delle Torri  - a 13th century aqueduct.One of the highlights for me.  Next time I will bring a pair of sneakers or hiking shoes so I could walk further up the trail.IMG_8441.jpgIMG_8437.jpgThe Duomo - Santa Maria AssuntaIMG_8377.jpgIMG_8415.jpgIMG_8398.jpgIMG_8390.jpgIMG_8431.jpgMore pictures of the Historic Center.IMG_8469.jpgIMG_8454.jpgIMG_8453.jpgBasilica di Santa Gregorio Maggiore - consecrated in 1146.IMG_8472.jpgIMG_8475.jpgIMG_8478.jpgNote:  This is not a politics blog but the US election last week was not normal.The President Elect would like to commute to the White House, staying mostly in Trump Tower.  I was not aware that being President of the most powerful country on the planet was a part-time gig.  This would create a major logistical nightmare for the Secret Service and the NYPD.  It would also be a headache for residents of the building and the surrounding area as blocks of a major street (5th Avenue) would have to be shut down.There's a silver lining.  Trump may not have time or the desire to redecorate the White House.  I was thinking of writing a separate post about this space:Donald-Melania-Trump-Manhattan-Penthouse_1-768x511.jpgSpoletoPhotos: Me and my iPhone Trump Living Room: iDesignArch Save

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