Art and Architecture with Ariella - Contemporary Art in Rome
Ciao Bloggisti,Here is the latest post from Ariella:Over the past few months I have explored art in Rome from a historical point of view, as well as its current and future purpose. While Rome is known for masterpieces by some of the world's greatest artists such as Michaelangelo, Caravaggio, and many others; the city has a vibrant contemporary art culture as well.Art and architecture in Rome is always present. We travel though it everyday, sit in its' spaces, it creates views and vistas and reminds us of the past while providing the setting for the future.Rome functions like a gallery. We circulated much in the same way we travel through a space designed for art. The city has made a concerted effort to integrate contemporary art and modern life with the construction of new museums. These spaces house newer collections and also facilitate the experience of promoting the collaboration between art, architecture, and everyday life.The challenge of the newer buildings and space is not to interfere or interrupt "historic" Rome but rather to blend in. These new spaces have attracted many visitors and artists to the city. Artists come to Rome from all over the world seeking inspiration while many born and raised in Rome have also flourished as artists.Every week for the past few months, I have visited a new contemporary art museum, gallery, studio, or installation and I've been able to learn from the historical cultural wealth of the Rome as well as from the current vibrant scene.My past impressions of contemporary art were of paintings and pieces that were difficult to relate to, very conceptual. Contemporary art is always evolving and now quite a few artists have returned to figurative painting/works.The collaboration reflected in exhibits, events, and installations have shaped the contemporary art world in Rome.I asked Ariella for a list of some of her favorite contemporary art museums and galleries.Museums:MACROMAXXI 
Galleries:Anna Marra ContemporaneaT293Galleria VarsiGalleria Valentina BonomoI'm adding one of my favorites to her list, Galleria Lorcan O'Neill. Ariella mentioned two other spaces. They're not galleries or museums but display contemporary art.MOMA Hostel - a hostel run by artists.MAAM - this space has living quarters for homeless families. The families live with the art. When Ariella went to visit, one of the pieces had a dent in it because the children used it as a soccer/football goal post. I went to a street art exhibit there and thought it was one of the most interesting venues for art in Rome.
The Design Files - Yes, You Can Mix Stripes and Prints.
Ciao Bloggisti,I know matching curtains, wallpaper, and even bed covers are having a moment. I think this style can look lovely in a Manhattan Classic Six bedroom or a home in the English countryside. In general though, I'm not a fan of what interior designers/decorators refer to, in very technical terms, as matchy-matchy.So far we've used a lot of neutrals and solid colors in our projects. I'm trying to experiment more when it comes to patterns, especially mixing them. It's tricky as there's a fine line between Granny Chic and a room that looks dated.One of my clients has a beautiful striped sofa. The current decorative pillows are a solid blue that she would like to change. Surprising myself, I started to pull prints. Her home has classic lines and a few antiques mixed with modern art. The solid pillows on the couch completely disappeared.Something like this from Designer's Guild would make the pillows stand out more without overwhelming the sofas:
I LOVE stripes. They're a great pattern to mix with as they are simple and graphic. It may seem odd to place a stripe in a room that has floral prints, but try it. The graphic lines of the stripes will help ground the space.How to make sure the room doesn't look like a jumbled mess? Color, color, color. This bedroom by Mark D. Sikes is a perfect example.
The stripes on the chairs go beautifully with the floral print on the duvet. Imagine a floral pattern on the chairs. I believe it would be way too much.There's a lot going on in this space but the color palette (and the scale of the furniture) makes it relaxing.Below, a bold approach from Steven Gambrel. Gorgeous. 
Chocolate brown and blue from Sheila Bridges. Notice how the print in the curtains is the same color as the stripe. Beautiful. Solid curtains with this type of sofa would've made the space too formal for a young single woman.
Clearly, I have the color blue on my mind.
Life in Rome - Villa Farnesina
Ciao Bloggisti,Villa Farnesina has been on my "need to visit" list for quite some time. One rainy afternoon, I decided to schlep across town. It was worth the trip.This villa is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture. In 1509, the wealthy banker Sienese Agostino Chigi commissioned architect Baldassarre Peruzzi (who was known mostly for his paintings) to build a villa for him in the country. The villa is located just across the river in Trastevere. Back in the day, Trastevere was considered the country as it was outside the city walls. Chigi was well connected and ran in some very rarefied circles. The location was perfect for him. He was close enough to the city for business and far enough away to build a grand space to entertain his friends, which included the Pope, with lavish banquets. Chigi, while a great host, was also a huge patron of the arts.Rumor has it that Villa Farnesina was built over the ruins of the villa where Cleopatra met her lover Mark Antony for sexy times. When construction began, Chigi was in love with the infamous courtesan Imperia (supposedly she was the first woman to be called as such) but his second mistress, and later wife, Andreosia lived in the home. It's not a surprise that the theme running through the villa is love.Imperia was close to, and perhaps the lover of, the great artist Raphael. She was the model for several of the frescoes in the villa. Other painters along with Raphael and Peruzzi were, Sebastiano del Piombo, Giovanni da Udine, Giovanni Bazzi, Giulio Romano, and Giovan Francesco Penni.In 1577 the Farnese family bought Villa Farnesina. It was given this name to set it apart from the villa they owned across the river in Piazza Farnese.I hope return to Villa Farnesina during a sunny day and soak it all in. It's beautiful.
Photos: Me and my iPhone.
A Belated Birthday Trip to Sicily
Ciao Bloggisti,I'm suffering from a bit of Sicily withdrawal. Please bear with me.Thanks to a birthday present from my parents (thank Mom and Dad!), I returned to Sicily for a long weekend. There was an airline strike and my flight departed over two hours late. The weather was horrible. I rented a car and had an accident. I got lost constantly. It didn't matter.The minute I drove up to the reception area and saw the views, smelled the Sicilian jasmine, and had a glass of wine, I forgot all about the hassles to get there. Like my friend Gina, I'm already plotting my next Sicilian trip.One major reason for my withdrawal is Monaci delle Terre Nere. This was my third trip and hopefully there will be a forth. I think I need to go during the Spring as that's the only season I haven't been there. While checking out, I told Sara that the next time I return I want to be there with my man. Hello, I'm single.I stayed in the Fragante room. It has a fireplace, terrace, a Jacuzzi, and sea/vineyards views. It's a short walk, through lime trees, to the main villa. I loved the little details, like this floral arrangement.
I woke up to sunrises with the sounds of roosters, the sheep next door, and Mt. Etna. 
It got a little chilly at night, so I really appreciated the fireplace.They have a newish chef and the food (lunch and dinner) is a little less rustic than before. It is very good but it's a high-end take on Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is extensive and excellent. The breakfast spread was on point.It rained most of the time I was there, so no lounging by the pool (or the pool bar) this time. I'm glad it did clear up a little bit the day I drove down the coast.
Of course it was a stunning day the morning I checked out. 
Grazie mille Guido, Ada, Nujuan, and Sara for everything.I have a solid sense of direction. Therefore, I was perplexed by my Sicilian driving situation. None of the rentals cars came with GPS but I had maps, directions printed out, and Google Maps on my phone and still I got lost. What the heck?My plan was to go to Ragusa, Modica, and then meet Gina in Ortigia for dinner. Some how I took the wrong exit for Ragusa. It was a happy accident because I ended up in Scicli which was incredible.I gasped when I saw this view. Pictures do not do it justice. Stunning. 
Next, Modica.Had a slight fender bender. It wasn't my fault and after my nerves were frazzled. At least I wasn't driving a stick shift. I thought Modica was beautiful as well.
Three years ago when I was trying to decide between staying in Modica or Ortigia, I picked Ortigia. I liked Modica but I would've missed being by the sea and it's a lot more touristy than Scicli. If I had to pick a small hill town to stay in it would be the latter.Ortigia.It started to pour again. Gina and I went to a small caffe for aperitivi to wait it out. The rain never stopped.One thing I noticed right away, is how much Ortigia has changed in one year! The word is out. There were small tour buses. The caffe I always went to in Piazza Archimede was packed with tourists. There are several new shops selling souvenirs (at least most of them are food related). I hope this is great for the local economy.Even in the rain, The Duomo and its piazza moved me.
Dinner at Le Vin de L'assassin was delicious.
By time we finished dinner, the rain had tampered off. Then I got lost while driving through flooded streets. Fun.I finally made it to the Autostrada. It stopped raining and there wasn't any traffic at midnight. Life was lovely. I was singing along with the radio, loudly, when all of a sudden the skies open up. BUCKETS of rain. I was near Catania and the heavy rain did not stop until I reached the exit for Acireale. More flooding as I drove on hairpin curves up the mountain. Thankfully, this time I found Monaci no problem.I really need to see Palermo and so many other places not just in Sicily but also Italy in general. I haven't been to Puglia or much of the North. However, Sicily keeps calling me. I find the architecture beautiful and inspiring. The food and wine are incredible. The people I've met made me feel at home.
Sicily has my heart and my head.Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Life in Rome - A Day Trip to Ischia
Ciao Bloggisti,How was the rest of your summer?The rientro was/is intense but I'm loving this back-to-school vibe. Folks are rested and ready.My summer was pretty uneventful, except for a visit from my younger sister. Daniella was speaking at conference in Hamburg, Germany and decided to return to the States from Rome.It was her first trip to Italy and she loved it. She rented a fabulous place in Monti. Daniella happened to be in town during my birthday and we decided to take a day trip to the island of Ischia.Ischia is somewhat of a schlep for one day but it had been on my "must visit" list for ages. We took the fast train to Naples. It was worth the extra money to save time. We also paid a little more to book our ferry tickets in advance online.A friend who used to live in Ischia and other another friend who holds yoga retreats there, recommended Il Giardino Eden as a great place for lunch. All I wanted was a view of the water and decent food. Our lunch was delicious and the views were ridiculous.To get the restaurant you can walk up a short steep hill or, for ten euros or so round trip, have a little boat take you to the restaurant. We went with the boat.I'm big fan of the film The Talented Mr. Ripley (the set and costume designs were incredible). It was a treat to see several of the locations, like Castello Aragonese, in person.I would love to return during the off season and stay for awhile. It's a beautiful island.
Snack Chat - A Summer Treat with Nathan Turner
I saw on Instagram that Nathan Turner was shooting an online series for The Design Network.What a fun idea. Nathan is a very talented interior designer but he's also known for being quite the host.For this series, he has invited several of his design friends to cook a little something, something in the kitchen. Nathan's enthusiasm is infectious.I met him, briefly, at his shop (a must if you're in Los Angeles) during Kathryn M. Ireland's design workshop and he couldn't have been lovelier.There are six episodes (he's currently shooting the second season). I thought this Banana Berry Trifle dish he made with Mary McDonald was the perfect summer dish.
I want to make this. I may need to wait until my friends return to Rome though. I can't eat this whole thing by myself.Speaking of Rome, it's Ferragosto time. No trips to Sicily or the Caribbean for me this summer, tears! However, there are some very excited things happening here and I cannot wait to share more in September.Buone Vacanze a tutti!
Rhapsody in Green - Ina Garten's Garden
Ciao Bloggisti,I wish more American cooking shows aired in Italy. We have shows from the UK and France but not many (only the Masterchef shows) from the USA. I wonder why?I think the Barefoot Contessa would do well here. What's there not to love? Ina makes fantastic food and the settings/locations are gorgeous (that kitchen!).I was so excited when the latest issue of ELLE DECOR showed up in my mailbox. One, because it's a miracle when my magazines from the United States arrive on time, or at all, and two, because there was a beautiful spread featuring Ina's garden.It took Ina and Jeffrey ten years to convince the owners to sell the overrun pasture next to their property. Ten years. It was well worth the wait. The design of this garden, by landscape designer Edwina von Gal, is spectacular. I love the formality of the boxwoods mixed with the casualness of the roses, Russian sage, and other plants.You can read more about this gorgeous space on ELLE DECOR's website. The July/August issue is on newsstands now.
Photos: Elle Decor
Life in Rome - Aperitivi at the Beach
Ciao Bloggisti,How's the summer treating you so far?As I wrote in my previous post, I'm trying to improve my attitude and to be more social. My friend Courtney and I had plans to meet for aperitivi on Saturday. Instead of dealing with crowds in the Historic Center on a hot Saturday evening, I suggested we go to the beach. We went to Singita in Fregene. It was fantastic!Sometimes we forget that Rome is so close to the sea. By going for aperitivi instead of lunch or dinner, we would miss beach traffic in both directions.It was just what the doctor ordered. Nice breeze, great drinks, and a beautiful sunset. We started out with non-alcoholic drinks and then switched to a mojito. 
Photos: Me and my iPhone.
Io Adoro - E' Stile Bookstore
I'm still getting to know my neighborhood. One Sunday morning, I jogged past an interesting store window and made a mental note to check it out.Oh man, this place is going to be an issue. E' Stile is a concept bookstore focusing on art, fashion, and interior design/architecture.They have a GREAT book selection. I do order from Amazon sometimes, especially English language books but nothing beats going to an actual bookstore. Yes, it's more expensive. However, I believe it's important to support small shop owners. I like to browse and speak with the salespeople about the books. You can't duplicate that experience with online shopping.E' Stile also carries Chez Dede bags, products from brands like Kartell and Alessi, and there's a gallery space downstairs.
Photos: Me and my iPhoneE' Stile BookstoreVia Chiana, 15+ 39 06 8555337
Life in Rome - Festival del Verde e Paesaggio
The other week I went to the sixth annual flowers and plants show at Parco della Musica for the first time. These festivals are held throughout Italy during the Spring.The weather was terrible! I'm glad I went on Friday when it was just cloudy. Saturday it poured buckets. I had to work that day on a client's terrace. We couldn't reschedule the gardeners because they were completely booked this month.I had a great time at the show and look forward to checking it out next year. So many beautiful plants to buy, so little space. I wish I had a garden.It's fun for families too. There was a children's section, several food trucks, and a "school" offering classes in floral arrangements, gardening tips, etc.
Metropolian Home is Back*
*Kind of.I cannot stress how excited I am about this news! METROPOLITAN HOME was one of my favorite shelter magazines. While many of its competitors focused on big suburban houses, MH zeroed in on city living and contemporary design.During the massive financial and housing crisis of 2008, MH and several other magazines shut down (InSTYLE HOME, COTTAGE LIVING, BLUEPRINT, COUNTRY HOME, O at HOME and DOMINO). It was first published in the 1970s as APARTMENT LIFE and was renamed in 1981. It was very popular with city dwelling Baby Boomers and older Gen Xers.Now their children (the Millennials) are starting to buy and/or decorate their own homes. There's a ton of information on the internet of course, but there's something special about print. I think older Boomers who are downsizing and moving back into urban areas might spark to the relaunched MH as well.This is a test issue. It's for sale at newsstands in several cities in the States, was sent to ELLE DECOR (and other Hearst Magazine) subscribers, and is also available via the Apple store. If this issue does well, there will be a second fall/winter issue with the goal of making it a quarterly magazine.I cannot wait to read it. For more information check out their Facebook page, Pinterest page, or Instagram feed.
Life in Rome - My Post Milan Funk
I've been in a weird mood since returning from Milan the other week.I'm crashing from the Salone del Mobile high, Prince is dead, and I have a cold. I rarely get sick but when I do it seems as if my colds have a need to make up for lost time or something.When I went to the Salone two years ago this didn't happen. Something has changed in Rome and it's not for the better. I'm not the only one who feels this way. These articles, yesterday's New York Times and a piece my friend Michelle wrote for US and News Report in February, sum things up pretty well. Maybe I have cabin fever. Hopefully, tomorrow I will feel better and can leave my house!I have been to the Salone three times. The first time I stayed in a hotel near the Convention Center. The second time I rented an apartment in the city near the canals. Third time's a charm.Hotel prices are insane during the Salone (if you can find one). The Salone is larger than Fashion week and seventy percent of the people attending are visiting from other countries. The entire city takes part. If you're planning to attend, make reservations early. Many companies and vendors have blocked out rooms years in advance.I returned to the Principe after my great experience there in September. I still don't understand how the hotel was filled to capacity, yet I rarely saw any other guests on my floor. So quiet. The service at this hotel is impeccable despite its size. Plus, they have American bacon during breakfast.Renting an apartment while traveling on vacation is an excellent option but I've learned my lesson. When I'm working, a hotel is a better choice for me. Much better.I was running around Milan like a chicken with my head cut off and it was wonderful to return to a clean room, to have concierge service, a gym, a convenient place to have meetings, etc. Of course the cost was higher than the apartment I rented two years ago but my trip was more productive.And what a great trip...four intense days of meetings and visiting showrooms. I wish I had more time.I posted a few photos on Instagram and below are additional pictures from some of the highlights. I can't upload all the highlights as I forgot to take photos at the Ethimo party, and quite a few showrooms.
Life in Rome - Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps
For almost eight years I walked past Palazzo Altemps at least five times a week. I'm not sure why I waited so long to finally check it out.One Friday, during lunch time, I basically had the place to myself. True, it was the dead of winter but I was surprised.The Palazzo is very close to Piazza Navona and was built during the 1500s. Archaeologists have uncovered ancient Roman structures and artifacts from the 1st century AD, which are displayed on the first floor.Cardinal Marcus Sitticus Altemps acquired the palazzo from the Riario family in 1568. He greatly extended the palazzo to showcase the family's impressive art and and book collections. There are also many standout pieces from the Boncompagni Ludovisi, Mattei, del Drago Albani, and Brancaccio collectionsThis museum is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano which also includes the Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, and Terme di Diocleziano.There is free admission to the museums on the first Sunday of the month.Below are a few pictures I snapped during my tour: 
Palazzo Altemps is opened Tuesday - Sunday from 9.00 to 19.45.Closed Mondays (except Easter Monday and during the "Culture Week"), 1 January, 25 December.The Ticket Office closes one hour before closing time.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Design Inspiration - Sugar Paper, Los Angeles
I'm a big fan of Sugar Paper's letter-press stationary. I must visit their store whenever I'm in Los Angeles.Before I said "arrivederci" to my Hollywood screenwriting career, my Los Angeles trips were a blur of pitches, general meetings, and being stuck in horrendous traffic.During my last trip, I was able to slow down a bit and really see Los Angeles. My feelings about Los Angeles have completely changed. I lived there for ten years and was so happy to get out. Now? I'm excited to spend time there. Not that excited about the thirteen-hour direct flight though.Sugar Paper is located in the Brentwood Country Mart. The market is worth checking out as well. In the past I've bought my stationary and rushed out the door to my next meeting.This time I had a lunch meeting at Farmshop in the Mart and the traffic gods had smiled upon me. I was very early. To be honest, my wallet was displeased with the turn of events.How lovely is this space?
Renovated last year by the firm Life.Style., this update of the ten-year old shop is perfection. The stationary is the star of the show.
The brass light fixtures are Thomas O'Brien and the fabric is from Peter Dunham. For more (and professional!) pictures of the project, the Life.Style. portfolio is here.Photos: Me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - New Year, New Address
I would say Happy New Year, but it’s already January 21th.After living in the Historic Center on Via del Pellegrino for seven years, I have moved to a new neighborhood. I now live in Parioli.To say this is a big change would be an understatement.One of the biggest changes was moving from a furnished apartment to an unfurnished one. I was very fortunate that my former landlady had a great eye but I’m excited to finally have my own furniture.Finding an apartment that was unfurnished was not easy. Smaller apartments tend to be furnished and in Italy/France if your place is unfurnished it usually means you have to buy a kitchen as well. I didn’t have the time or the budget to build a kitchen.I lucked out in finding a place that was semi-furnished; meaning the kitchen was already installed.I’m still getting settled. I have no Internet. Who knows when it will be installed? Could be next week, could be next month. I’m zen about the whole thing as I realized flipping out on Vodafone would not make things move faster.For over twenty-five years, I have lived in homes with white walls. I decided to get out of my comfort zone and paint my front hallway a dark blue. Here some pictures that inspired me to get my Steven Gambrel on.A sea of blue in Mr. Gambrel's West Tenth Street townhouse.
A deep blue foyer in Paris.
Jeannette Whitson's library which created quite a decorating stir.
I went with Farrow & Ball’s Stiffkey Blue.
I will post some pictures as it comes together. Who knows when it will be done? Story of my life.
Life in Rome - Where to go for Cocktails
The wonderful women at Italy Casa Mia asked me to write a guest post about where to have delicious cocktails in Rome. It was hard work, very difficult research.
Photo: Gina Tringali However, somehow I was able to complete this assignment.Quite a bit of ink has been spilled recenty regarding how the cocktail scene has improved in Rome. I don’t know what it was like before but I agree that yes, it is possible to have a cocktail in Rome. Anyone who tells you that the only thing to drink is wine or an Aperol Spritz (not that there’s anything wrong with either of them) is incorrect.While a great bartender (or mixologist as they’re called today) is key, the atmosphere is just as important. There are some spots where the drinks are good but I cannot get into the vibe and/or décor.Of course this list is very subjective. Below are the places my friends and I tend to go to time and time again. Not on the list are a few bars some of my younger friends love. To paraphrase Lethal Weapon, “I’m too old for that foolishness.” This is a grown folks list.First up, in alphabetical order, the hotel bars. I’ve heard that back in the day (perhaps 2003?) the best chance for a decent cocktail was at a hotel bar but the prices tend to be higher.
DOM
This hotel opened two years ago on the gorgeous Via Giulia. A former convent, the tiny downstairs bar is seriously sexy with its dark greys. They make a great French 75. In warmer months, head upstairs to the lovely rooftop terrace. Note: On weekend nights, the bar gets very crowded. There’s usually a line (and a list) to get in.To read the rest of my list, click HERE. Buon drinking!
Design Inspiration - Bar Luce - Prada Fondazione, Milan
Hold up, how is it October already? One of my friends in the States was complaining about seeing Thanksgiving decorations already. I guess we should be grateful they weren't for Valentine's Day 2016.I have started my apartment search. It's, well, a trip. I don't know what some of these landlords are thinking. The bathroom situation is not good.I'm having a hard time finding smaller apartments that are unfurnished. Most of the apartments in the neighborhoods I'm focusing on were built for families. I don't need a huge apartment and as a small business owner, it wouldn't be financially smart to take on that kind of monthly expense.I hope to find something this month. We'll see.I took a quick business trip to Milan last month. I got completely lost searching for a to-the-trade vintage furniture store. Once i realized I was very close to the new Prada Fondazione, I had to check out Bar Luce.Bar Luce was designed by film director Wes Anderson. Anderson has directed several short films for the fashion house.It's 1950/1960's Milanese style with a touch of Anderson's quirkiness. Opened everyday from 9:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m., Bar Luce is the prefect spot to have coffee or aperitivi.There are so many wonderful design details in this space. I really need to return and spend a afternoon there, reading and writing.ADORE these lights. If I find an apartment with an ingresso/foyer that has overhead lighting, I'd love a fixture like this.
The dark wood helps anchor all the pastels. Without it, perhaps the décor would be too twee. Pink and green are fabulous together. Back in college I used to have a rugby shirt with those colors. One day while walking across the quad, an upperclassman asked me if I were an AKA. She said, "you do wear a lot of pink and green."I did. Not because I belonged to that sorority but because I wore a lot of preppy clothes in the 80s.
I didn't have a chance to see what tunes were on the jukebox.
One of my favorite Wes Anderson films. I must buy the soundtrack.
I wonder what flavor the pink cake is. So pretty.
My Return to Sicily
Hello, my name is Arlene Antoinette Gibbs and I have a Sicily problem.It's bad. Every time I go, i wish I could stay longer. There's so much of the island I haven't seen yet, for example the entire West Coast, the interior, and other islands like Stromboli, Lampedusa, etc. etc.This time I was on the island for a week, Mt. Etna then Ortigia, for vacation (and to celebrate my birthday)."It's good to back," I said to Rosa, the newish manager, when I walked into the reception room at Monaci delle Terre Nere. Last year I wrote about Monaci and my first trip to the Sicilian mainland for FATHOM.This time I stayed in the Floreale room.
The bathroom!
Photos: Monaci The view from my balcony.
Lunch was served by the pool.The first time I went to Monaci, it was raining and winter so I had no idea how spectacular the views were. The grounds are gorgeous.
The main villa at sunset. I would like to decorate a Sicilian villa one day.
One morning I jogged around the forty acre property. Most of the food served at Monaci comes from their organic gardens. There is a huge chicken coop. I hesitate to call it a coop. It's more like a palace as it's bigger than my apartment. Lucky chickens.The breakfast spread was serious. On the other side were eggs, cheeses, salumi, cakes, breads, cereals, and many other things I didn't have a chance to try.
I had to buy a jar of their honey. Fifteen percent of the honey made in Italy comes from this small town.
I had some great Sicilian wines. I love their aperitivi. Although there were more guests during this trip (the hotel was at full occupancy) fewer people went to the aperitivi. Perhaps they thought it wasn't child appropriate?
Several rooms, located a few meters from the main house, have been renovated now. The atmosphere during high season was completely different from off-season. There were lots of families and half the tourists were American.I had a moment with a fellow American guest who was so rude, it took my breath away. I believe I had a strong reaction to her snub because it was completely out of context. The vibe at Monaci is very friendly and chill. The owners, Guido and Ada, are lovely and as are the other people who work there. For this basic lady to not understand that said a lot about her.As soon as I sat down with my book by the pool, I got over it. I was in a beautiful place and no one was going to put a damper on that.A slight scent of Sicilian jasmine, and lavender filled the air. There were roosters in the background and sometimes the volcano "groaned", loudly. It was very relaxing despite the sounds coming from Mt. Etna.A grazie mille to Rosa, Sara, Federico, Nujuan, Salvatore, and of course Guido and Ada for helping make this the best birthday ever.Note: My room was in the main villa and on the same floor as the kitchen. I'm an early riser, so I never heard a peep from the kitchen or from the downstairs reception area.From Monaci, I went to Oritigia. This time I rented an apartment on the other side of the village. I couldn't understand why it was cheaper than my place from last year. It had a terrace with a partial sea view.It's because that side of the town wasn't completely regentrified, yet.As you can see in the photos below, some of the buildings are derelict and the empty former prison is on the left. I liked being only two blocks away from the farmers market but can see how that might not be appealing.I had to work a bit during my vacation but at least I had a view.
Love the old faded tiles on the right.
Before unpacking, I ran out to get pick up some yogurt, wine, and other important things. All of a sudden I heard my name and it was X, Erica's daughter. Once again, without planning it, our apartments were only blocks away from each other.The tiny piazza in front of my building at night.
The architecture here is incredible. Remember to look up.
My friends at Casa Mia wrote about Tabaré (Sicilian dialect for tray) and I had to check it out. It's a must.
On my birthday we went to Arenella beach. We got there early and scored great beach chairs, second row. It was my first trip to a Sicilian beach and I had a great time. I love how people of all shapes and sizes rock bikinis and Speedos.
Later that night we went to dinner. In Italy when it's your birthday and you invite people to celebrate with you, you pay. It makes sense to me. You're the host. I have some American friends who really have an issue with this custom but it's not just an Italian thing. In the Caribbean if you invite people out for your birthday, you pay. I get it if you're in your early 20s and you meet at a bar or something. However, by your 40s/50s and up, the whole invite people to celebrate you and then expect them to pay is a little odd to me.
After dinner Erica insisted on treating me to a post dinner drink in the main piazza. This is probably one of my favorite churches and piazzas in Italy. It is ridiculously beautiful.
I was worked up about this birthday but in the end, it turned out to be a perfect day. Thank you, Ms. Firpo and Ms. Arya.I've been back for less than two weeks and I'm already trying to figure out when I can return. I'm tempted to join one of my friends in Rome who has to go to there for work in October. Seriously.Photos (except for the first two): me and my iPhone
Life in Rome - An Escape to Sperlonga to Beat the Heat
Of course there was drama.My friend Marta and I decided to get the heck out of dodge as this heatwave is one of the worst on record. There are no signs of relief. I understand week or so with these kind of temperatures. It is, after all, July in Rome. However, an entire month of highs in the 90s and low 100s is not a good thing.Did I mention that I don't have air conditioning? I cannot keep my windows open at night as my pretty side street is filled with demonstrative high school Italian students, and drunk American exchange students until dawn.I'm waking up at 4:00 a.m. as it's impossible to sleep. One of my clients is started a major construction project this week so I cannot work remotely in the mountains or at the beach as some friends have suggested.All this to say Marta and I were READY to get out of here on Saturday but alas, Trenitalia had other plans for us.It was one of those classic only in Italy moments. The train was on time but then got stuck on the track just a few yards away from Termini Station. There was something wrong with the current. We couldn't get off the train as we were on the tracks. There was no place to safely walk. They worked on the train and tracks for TWO hours. Mind you, the train ride to Fondi is an hour or so.At last, the train returns to the station and that's when all hell broke loose. Folks were not happy. One woman was going off on the police. I thought if she were in the States they probably would've tased her, then arrested her.It's funny, when we on the train things were pretty calm. While there was some muttering, "ma che cazzo sta dicendo" (but, what the fuck is he saying?) when the conductor walked through our car to give us updates, people kept reading or chatting with their friends instead of complaining.They did have another train waiting for us, on a different track, right away. Trenitalia employees handed out bottles of water, which I thought was a nice touch.Finally, we were on our way. Instead of waiting for the bus (at this point we were starving) we hopped into a taxi mini-van with several other women who were going to Sperlonga. They had been on the same train as us. When we saw the beach, they started clapping. We kept cracking up because the driver was having a super animated conversation.In a bizarre way the timing worked out better for us. We arrived in time for lunch. The restaurant, Scylla, was on the north side of the Historic Center and we wanted to be on the south side beach. To climb back and forth wouldn't have made sense. So we sat down, had a lovely lunch, and then braved the sun to walk up and over to the other side.Everyone was snapping photos of this sign.
I forgot all about the start to our day once we arrived.
Still thinking about this dish.
Sperlonga is a Blue Flag beach between Rome and Naples.
Starting our climb back up to the Historic Center. I have written about Tiberius's ruins HERE. It's a great day trip from Rome.
A quick aperitivi in the main piazza before returning to Rome. I didn't want to leave the fresh air and cool breeze.
Fantastic signage.
The view from the bus stop.
Life in Rome - Chez Dédé Opening Party
A few years ago I wrote about how much I adore the boutique accessories label founded by Andrea Ferolla and Daria Rein, Chez Dédé.There has been a lot of retail space turnover in our neighborhood. Antique stores, artisans, etc., are shutting down and Subway fast food restaurants, and other weird sandwich shops are taking over. There have been some great additions, like the Suppli spot but for every one of those there are four or five places that leave locals scratching their heads.Via Monserrato is one of the prettiest streets in Rome. When I saw the large for rent sign where Ilaria MIani's showroom used to be, I became very nervous. What kind of janky business would set up shop on this street?Then I saw this:
YAS!The store had its opening last week. Erica and I walked over and bumped into a bunch of our neighbors. One of our favorite bartenders, Fabrizio from Pierluigi, made the Kir Royales.Unfortunately, for me, the store is stunning. I should just leave my wallet there and let them take my money. All of it.Erica completely fan-girled LInda Rodin. I don't blame her. Ms. Rodin is a style icon for a reason. She was so gracious and didn't give us the side-eye for geeking out.I think I need to treat myself to a nice Grand Sac bag for my birthday. It's a big one (no, I'm not going to say which birthday it is as I still work in Hollywood). I haven't decided which bag yet. The island of Salina is one of my favorite places in the world but I also love the colors/style of the Portofino, Kenya, and Dubai bags. I haven't been to any of those places, so I think I should go with the Salina bag.Below are photos from the opening. Grazie mille, Daria for the invite!EDIT:Okay, I wrote this yesterday with the plan to publish today. I like to proof read before publishing yet, some typos still make it through. Grrrr.On Saturday my friend Courtney called me and said she had to speak with me urgently on Sunday. I asked what was wrong. Why couldn't she tell me over the phone? I was working all day on Sunday but said I would meet her in the afternoon. Erica wanted me to stop by her daughter's lemonade stand. I said I was on my way to meet Courtney but would stop by. I was worried about Courtney. Erica said she was too and hoped that everything was okay.I show up at Etablli. Courtney sends a SMS saying she's on her way and she asks me to order her a glass of wine. What the heck was going on? Was her news so heavy she needed to have a drink in hand?She walks in and Erica (!) is right behind her. They say, "Happy Birthday" and then this happened:
I had no idea they were planning this! Erica thought I was going to buy the bag before my birthday so she and Courtney went into action over the weekend. My birthday isn't until August 26th.I was/am floored. I am not an easy person to surprise and they totally got me. Well played ladies, well played. I love my bag.
Andrea is a very talented illustrator.
Linda Rodin. Fabulous.
Erica and Linda.
So true.
Photos: Me and my iPhone